ekscrunchy

I used the headphones and while the sound was fine, I immediately realized that they offered a translation of only a portion of what the guide way saying. Luckily, our guide was fluent in English so we spoke to her in that language after she had completed the script for the tour. I had scoffed at the boat tour for being too touristy the first time I was in the area but it really was lovely..as much for the views as for the actual patter of the headsets.

ekscrunchy

Moolyn I am glad you are having fun reading. You were such a help to me in planning this jaunt.

ekscrunchy

Tuesday morning we set off from Domme to the market in Le Bugue. After taking a wrong turn at St. Cyprien, we finally arrived at this very large market which winds along the street from one end of Le Bugue to another. This was the largest of the markets we visited that week and one of the best, although the roast chickens were nowhere to be seen! Perhaps they are more of Sunday specialty so people can bring them home for family dinner..?? Never mind, for we found plenty to buy here including several varieties of cabecou and other goat and sheep cheeses; Auvergnat sausages; olives; and prune eau d'vie.

Then we were off through the achingly beautiful countryside, through "Plus Beaux" Limeuil at the confluence of the Vezere and the Dordogne and along the Route du Cingle, a corniche road which winds above a dramatic loop in the Dordogne River.

Tremolat is the quintessential Dordogne village. Our destination here was the Relais Chateau property, Le Vieux Logis, where we had booked a table for lunch. The dining room, inside a renovated tobacco drying barn, is quite cozy in spite of the Logis status as one of the best Dordogne restaurants and possession of a Michelin star.
During the week the restaurant offers a 32 euro tasting menu which represents an excellent value.
We dined on a several amuse, followed by a succession of courses which included fois gras, rabbit terrine, mushroom cappucino, line-caught bar, loin of lamb, a medley of desserts, and a host of other small plates which I have forgotten. With a few bottles of local Bergerac wines, the total for 6 people came to just under 300 Euro. I recommend this place, although several of the touches might seem a bit contrived, such as the waiter presenting a tray of tightly wound napkins which he then annointed with acidulated water to expand them...hard to describe here. The hotel itself is lovely with its ivy-draped walls and cozy public spaces..would be a fine place to spend a few days to explore this area of the region.

www.vieux-logis.com

After our many coursed and multi-houred lunch, we strolled around lovely Tremolat which looks just as it does in the 1970s Chabrol film, Le Boucher and no doubt much the same as it did centuries ago. An absolute jewel.

We made our way back to Domme by taking Michelin "green" roads, through Siorac, Marnac, beautiful, miniscule Berbiguieres to Castelnaud to see the castle, and then on to Domme. That night we snacked on the bounty from the market before retiring early.

Next day...Sarlat market and Lascaux II and the Vezere Valley.

ekscrunchy

Something I noticed on this trip but forgot to mention, so I will do it here:

In the US, sweet wines are usually relegated to after the meal with the exception of serving Sauternes (or Beaumse de Venise, or another sweet white) with fois gras, which is a well-known pairing. But I had not realized that before the meal, when the aperitif is offered, it is considered usual in the SouthWest (and perhaps throughout France) to drink a sweet wine, such as a sweet Jurancon or a Monbazillac. Perhaps this is not news to many people but I foound it interesting, especially because I tend to like these wines.

Will get back to the report later today..

moolyn

ekskrunchy, your Tuesday expedition to the Market in le Bugue followed by lunch in Tremolat at le Vieux Logis brings back fond memories. I don't remember the napkin trick but was impressed by the constant attention and changes of plates and cutlery.

gracejoan3

ekscrunchy,

The Vieux Logis was by far my best dining while in the Sarlat area in September! It is also a place that I could stay..except for it being a bit distant.

Glad you enjoyed your trip....

ekscrunchy

Thanks..glad you are enjoying. Gracejoan, I would have to agree, based on the few restaurant experiences we had that week. Although I had a really really good meal at a Ferme Auberge near Martel, and a good one at L"Esplanade. Neither was in the Le Vieux Logis category. Next time I would like to have dinner there and chose from the Carte. By the way, where are you off to next in search of good eats? I like your style!

Moolyn, your report is awesome (I really hate the use that word gets nowdays but in the case of your report, I think I can use it safely..I am loving it!) The portion about the woad dying was fascinating...

And where are YOU off to next?

gracejoan3

ekscrunchy,

I am heading to Paris on 2/4. It has been several years since I have been to Paris as I have been wandering all over other places of France and a month in the south of Spain/Portugal. I used to go to Paris at least once a year.

Excited about getting back to Paris and now will finally get to see the Monet Water Lily panels with the Orangerie now open. The hotel will make my reseration.

I am doing it up well. The Westminster has a good winter special. It is a lovely hotel and has the Celadon Michelin starred restaurant. The hotel will meet my flight for airport transportaion both ways.

I am working on my restaurants. I like e-gullet site for the best updates on what is going on restaurant wise. Many food experts. I have a pretty good list now and will probably do more updating before letting the hotel make my reservations.

Anxious to get back to Paris!! A good winter break. It may become an annual trip time..time will tell!!
Joan

ekscrunchy

Joan your trip sounds like it will be fabulous. I also like eGullet. I looked for the Pudlo guide last month, thinking I would buy one but it was not as easy to find as I thought it would be so I sort of gave up the search.

The SW is an area that I can see will be calling me back again and again..want to do more exploring over the border around Pamplona next time. But I also hear Normandy/Brittany and, to a lesser extent, Burgundy/Rhone, calling...

I always enjoy reading your posts...keep up the good work and keep relishing!

gracejoan3

The new Publo can be reserved with Amazon for publication availability in May.

I have been gathering information on Brittany for some time now. It is a big area!! I think I would go for a month with 3 locations for best coverage.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Gracejoan. I had forgotten that they were coming out with an English version of the guide.
If only I had a month for Brittany/Normandy! My usual travel partner will only take a week at a time, although I can always stay on longer. I think with only a week we might pick two bases...not sure where since I have done no in-depth reading yet on this area..So many places to go and foods to eat....

I will get to the Paris part of my report one of these days; I really liked Ze Kitchen Galerie and Chez Denise; also Atelier JR as far as the food goes.

gracejoan3

I don't think you will want to try both Brittany and Normandy in only one week.

I will spend a month just doing Brittany. I have been in Normandy and covered what I wanted to see while staying at the Chateau Audrieu.

hopingtotravel

'scuse for butting in but where is the Chateau Audrieu?

cigalechanta

escrunchy, looking forward to the rest. Chez Denise was my favorite day for lunch. It lasted almost four hours. I was sitting between two couples, one from Normandy , the other from Paris and we got into a conversation that went on and on.

gracejoan3

hopingtotravel,

Chateau d'Audrieu is near Bayeux. This should get you there:
http://www.chateaudaudrieu.com

They are a Relais & Chateaux member hotel.

ira

Your report brings bake very pleasant memories, ek.

Thanks for sharing.

ekscrunchy

Your welcome, Ira.

Gracejoan, thank you for the tip.I will check it out and get to my report very soon...

Cigale, I LOVED Chez Denise! I walked in for lunch one day and was not only the only tourist, but the only female diner in the place. Lots of "fressers" at the tables so right away I had good expectations and it did not diappoint!

ekscrunchy

Grace..the Cheateau looks lovely. I noticed a huge price differential (greater than usual) between the categories of rooms....which type did you have and wht did you think of it if you don't mind...

cigalechanta

I was alone too and the only tourist, as far as I could see. Our server was from Normandy and the couple from N. were friend's of his parents.. so much joking going on. Denise sat across from me keeping a tough eye on the server.
The chef was autographing his cook book.
Had it been in English I would have bought a copy. Bernard Noel is that chef and he insisted on autographing the page from Figaro where I read about the La Tour de Monthiéry that morning at breakfast.

ekscrunchy

And what I did not realize is that the chef is noted for his fish dishes. Many of the reviews I had read touted the meats but the famous cote de bouef grille was only on offer for two. I had the skate, from the specials menu on the blackboard, and it was amazing, amazing. In fact, it prompted me to begin cooking this fish/creature at home with results that are not bad but of course nothing like the skate I had at Chez Denise.