http://www.alata.it/eng/index.asp

Alata.it is in English also. See the flags at the top?

Hmmm . . . addendum to above: some of the site is in English but you are right that much is in Italian - Is there an English section for reserving a time to tour San Marco?

I checked it out yesterday based on your post. The main page will be in English, but when you go to any specific page or to make reservations, it reverts back to Italian. You can go to the page you want (secret itinerary tour, for example), then copy the web page address and paste it into the web site translator on freetranslation.com. Not perfect, but you can get an idea of what it is.

I just read the translated page, it appears that the reservation for the Basilica is free. You can make reservation within 2 days of vist it appears.

Hi - yea the site is definitely NOT entirely in English. Using a translator site, I was however able to book a reservation successfully! YEA! I tried to put in a backup time in case we are running late, and it doesn't let me. Somehow it knows that I already booked a time! I cleared my cookies, cache, history, etc. Nothing works! In either case, I have at least 1 reservation done.

Part 3 Positano

Aug 3 - We reached Positano about 10:00 PM. We had booked the famous room #210 at the Albergo Miramare based on the glowing reports on this board and on www.tripadvisor.com. It's located half-way down a hill. We had been instructed to stop when we got to the Poseidon (where we had stayed last time) and call the hotel so they could send up a porter. Renato kindly made the call for us. He reported that the hotel said they didn't have anyone available at the moment to send up. Uh, oh. We didn't think it would be terribly difficult to find the hotel ourselves, so we got the luggage out of the van. Thankfully, the night receptionist came up to help. He took one large bag, Phil got the other, and once again I brought up the rear with all the rest of the stuff. There are about 180 steps down to the hotel from the street. Steep steps. Walking is one thing, dragging bags is another. Antonio, the receptionist left us in the dust (flatlanders!). We came to a split. Which way do we go? We heard clunking to our left and followed the sound. We were all huffing and puffing by the time we got to the hotel!

Antonio waved off the signing-in ceremony and showed us to our room. Once again, no elevator, but it was an easy walk down a hallway and up maybe one flight of stairs. Hey, in Positano that's a piece of cake!!

Words cannot do justice to that room. It's located at the beginning of the top floor, slightly away from the other rooms. A heavy mermaid-shaped key opens the oval wooden door. You step into a small sitting area containing two stuffed armchairs and the closet. Tucked inside of this are the mini fridge, the room safe, plush bathrobes, and slippers. A half wall separates this from the sleeping area that contains the usual twins pushed together (very comfortable), a dresser, two night tables, and a chair. Here's the stunning part - the entire wall running alongside the bed is made of glass! Two doors swing out completely onto the terrace. What a terrace!!! It is large and has, probably, one of the best views in Positano. There are two cushioned lounge chairs, a glass-topped wrought iron table, and two matching chairs. This terrace and the one beneath it (#203) jut out farther than the others in the hotel.

The other fabulous feature is in the bathroom. The entire outside wall of the shower is a window! So you even have a great view while washing your hair!! No one can see you from below, unless, perhaps, you plaster yourself against the window.

We were putting our things away when we noticed a line of ants crawling along the floor near the half-wall. We were NOT going to let ants get the best of us or this room! Phil went down to see if Antonio had any bug spray (afterwards he said that he tried to explain what the problem was by moving his fingers across the front desk - I would have also put wiggling fingers up on either side of my head to simulate antennae - Phil retorted that then Antonio would have thought we were complaining about aliens!). Antonio didn't understand, so came up to see what was going on. He soon returned with a can of bug spray and a broom. He was so mortified and kept apologizing. We made a good team. Phil sprayed, Antonio swept, and I tracked the line. Antonio left the can with us in case of future need. Thankfully there wasn't any.

We lit the thoughtfully provided candle, opened up the other bottle of wine, and fetched the panini. We had a very romantic late-night dinner on the terrace gazing at the moon coming up over the hill, the glow of the surrounding town, and the twinkling mooring lights of the bobbing boats below. A hint of music drifted up from some night club. I called my daughter and told her I had found her honeymoon spot!

That night, and every night thereafter, we left the curtains completely open to take full benefit of the view. The last night was cool and not as humid as the previous ones, so we left the doors wide open and slept to the distant sound of the surf crashing on the shore. It was like sleeping outside under the stars!!!

Aug 4 ? Breakfast is in a room also fronted by a wall of glass. You get the usual fare. The cappuccino is great and the fruit unbelievable. If I could get fruit like that here, I would be much healthier (maybe thinner?)! We stopped by the front desk to return the bug spray and register. We didn?t even have to tell them who we were. I guess the spray was the tip-off.

We hiked down the 211 steps to the lower section of town and made our way to the ferry ticket booths on the pier. Today we wanted to visit Amalfi and Ravello. We also needed to reserve ferry tickets to Capri for the following day (you have to do this a day in advance - I don?t know if this is just during the busy summer season, or all the time- ask your hotel, if you want to go). There are three ticket booths. The schedules are posted in the front of each and are pretty easy to decipher. The earliest ferry to Amalfi wasn't until 10:00. I sought out shade for the 40 minute wait, and Phil took pictures.

We sat outside up on the top and enjoyed the breeze. It was kind of hazy, not picture friendly, but the ride along the coast was still gorgeous. We have so many pictures from the last visit that it didn't make a difference. Once in Amalfi we headed to the shop across the road from the bus area (you can?t miss it - there?s a big sign on the front) to get bus tickets to Ravello ( a small town with great hand-painted pottery cheaper than in Amalfi and Positano). There was a big crowd waiting the bus stop, and a lot of pushing and shoving to get on the bus. I followed the Italians and boarded through the "back" door. Most of the other tourists went through the front. Once through, I turned left and found a slew of empty seats, which did NOT stay empty for long!

The bus trip up to Ravello is an adventure. It costs 2 euros - 1 euro each way. I still find it amazing how good the drivers are! You have steep cliffs on one side, walls of rock on the other, and all sorts of vehicles in between. I swear sometimes there couldn't have been more than an inch of space between us whatever object we were passing! If you can, get a seat in the front and take movies of the ride. Catch the death defying vespas as they swerve around everything in their paths.

We went to the gardens in the Villa Rufolo (on the left as soon as you walk into town - 5 euro). They were peaceful, colorful, and chock-full of picture spots, if you like flowers. We then had to hit Cermiche D?Arte, an exquisite ceramics shop. They have a wide variety of items and will gladly custom-make anything you see. Two years ago I was in the market for canisters, but I didn?t see anything I liked. I did spot a lovely table in the courtyard of their factory (on the other side of town). Figuring it didn't hurt to ask, I inquired if it would be possible to have canisters made in that pattern. Not only was it, but I got to choose the specific canister/top shapes and sizes and the amount of fruit and flowers on them! The pieces themselves are, I think, pretty reasonable for being hand-painted. The shipping to the US is VERY expensive, however.

This trip we picked up a few already made odds and ends, including a very lovely pepper mill. While we were making our decisions, we started chatting with the owner about limoncello. We had bought some from the "limoncello factory" last time, but Phil thinks it's too bitter. We found out that quite a few shops in Ravello (and I'm sure in the surrounding towns as well) make their own. We got a few recommendations and were told to ask for a taste before choosing. We were off on a new mission. We tried the first shop on our list. Not bad, but let?s try another. The owner whipped the limoncello out from a fridge behind the counter, poured three cupfuls, and we all sipped. Great stuff. We bought 2 bottles. She also makes her own "meloncello" (I think the proper name is liquore crema melone). Wow ? like the sweetest cantaloupe with a kick. We bought 2 bottles of that, too. There were a lot of other liqours/flavors to try, but that was our limit (store name - Gusti E Delizie Di Caddeo Rosa V. Roma 28/30 - the street straight to the right of Ravello center, don't go up the hill).

The best meal of our entire trip was in Ravello at Cumpa Cosimo Ravello, down the street from the limoncello place (Via Roma 44/46, 089.857156). From the antipasti to the pasta, each dish got a "Wow" on our taste scale. The owner herself took our order and stopped us after the primo piatti with a "and then, we'll see." Try the caprese salad - wonderfully seasoned, sweetest tomatoes, includes arugula and marinated veggies; the best of the trip -and the pasta all'arrabbiata.

Unfortunately, we were too full to have anything else after that. After we had declined gentle urging to try a special dessert, "Mama" whisked out forks and told us to eat our peaches. They were deliciously sweet with a hint of wine. It was the perfect ending to a perfect meal. As we were finishing, who should walk in but Renato, our driver!!! An American couple had booked him for a day's tour of the Amalfi coast and were also enjoying lunch here.

Went to pick up our ceramics and headed for the bus. After waiting for half an hour with no bus in sight, Renato spotted us and came over. It was OK with the other couple if we wanted a lift down to Amalfi, since that was where they were headed, too. The gods were smiling on us that day!!!

We shopped around Amalfi until we got tired and bought a few more gifts. Amalfi is nice for a day visit, but I think Positano is a nicer place to stay. We wandered over to the ferry pier, sat on the water steps, and dangled our feet in the beautifully cool water until the ferry arrived. We passed the time having a very nice conversation with honeymooners engaged in the same activity.

Dinner that night was at a restaurant up the road from the Poseidon. I didn't have my bag with me, so I couldn't write down the name. It's one of the last ones going up, with seating on both sides of the street. The bench-like tables across the street from the restaurant have green and white striped cushions. The house wine and food was very good (try the seafood salad). We just walked in at 8:30 and had no problem getting a table. It filled up at about 9:30, so if you go around that time, you might have a wait. Don't dangle any body parts if you have an ouside seat. The buses can come rather close. I could not believe that we didn't have any of our cameras with us. The folks back home will never believe that we were virtually eating in the street (part of the fun)!

Aug 5 ? We had to scramble to catch our 8:55 ferry to Capri. This was the slow one. The first hydrofoil didn?t leave until 11:00, and we wanted to get an early start. The last time we were in Positano we had hired a private boat to take us along the coast and to Capri. We saw the grottos and went swimming then. We didn't get to see the towns, so that was our goal this time. They're OK, but it was the least favorite part of our trip (perhaps we missed something?).

The funicular from the port to Capri town was nice. Lots of pushing and shoving to get on, but with a little squeeze, everyone managed it. Capri, from what I saw, is all about shopping - tourist stuff and high-end shops. Some nice hotels and a few cute calles. We took a bus to Anacapri and wandered around there for a while (LOTS of tourist stuff), had lunch, and followed a tour group to the "cliff walk."

We overheard the guide say that it was possible to walk down a flight of steps to the port below (15 minutes). That sounded interesting and better than waiting for the crowded bus. The steps were VERY steep and uneven in depth, so you couldn?t get a good stride. It started to rain as we were going down. I was afraid of slipping, since the steps are of stone and have a lot of debris on them, so I went down very slowly - sideways like a crab. By the time we realized that perhaps this was not such a brilliant idea, it was too late to turn back. We were not climbing back UP that goat track! At one point our legs started trembling, and we sat down to take a rest sheltered from the rain by the overhanging trees. It took a about half an hour to reach the road at the end of the steps and another 10 minutes to get to the port. We spent the rest of the day sipping cold beer waiting for the ferry. It took three days for our legs to forgive us!

We had dinner that night in a place on the "path" that leads to the ferry dock, right before you hit the beach (Osteria ?O Capurale). Another wonderful meal (try the marinated anchovies - definitely NOT the jarred kind we get here). Gelato from one of the places on the beach (good chocolate and coconut), a stroll around town, and back home. That night nature provided us with a spectacular lightning show! I love that room!

Aug 6 - Today was our "hang-out" day. We slept late and ordered room service. We had an "American-style" breakfast with omelets. They were very good and pretty reasonable at 3 euros each. Everything else was included in the room rate ? cappuccino, rolls, pastry, that unbelievable fruit!

Shopped around Positano for a couple of hours before heading back to the hotel to drop off our purchases and change. We had booked the hotel boat for the afternoon excursion. It started to pour about 1:45. The boat was supposed to leave at 2:30. We definitely didn?t want to go in the rain, and since we were worn out from the pace/hours we had been keeping anyway, we decided to call the front desk to cancel. We felt kind of bad, but hopefully that was enough of a window. We fell asleep to the sound of the rain pattering on the terrace. I woke at 3:30 to bright sunshine! Oh, well. Phil slept until 5:00. We shared our last bottle of wine, snacked on fruit left from breakfast, and enjoyed the view until it was time for dinner.

We had reservations for a place up in Monte Pertuso called La Tagliata. The restaurant provides transportation there and back. You can walk down the "2,000 steps" from there to Positano (we had done it twice from Il Ritrovo last trip - similar experience to Anacapri, only in the dark). I considered it, but Phil said I would be doing it alone. Next time. My legs were still recuperating, anyway.

Great food and excellent view. I asked the waiter if he could recommend something when he came to take our order. He said not to worry; he?d take care of us. And he certainly did!!! Pitcher of house wine, bread, mixed antipasti (YUMMY), pasta, 2 large bottles of water, mixed grill, espresso, sambuca - all for 52 euros (aside from Venice, all our dinners ran around 50 euros).

We shared the van going back with a very happy group from Australia. One of the men had to sit up front. The driver handed him a mike and told him he was the tour guide. I don't know what this Aussie does in real life, but he definitely has a calling in the entertainment field. Not only did he keep up a running commentary that had all of us in tears, but he also sang two songs (rather well, too). We were sorry when they got off at their hotel.

Aug 7 - After breakfast we walked around Positano one last time. We stopped in a wonderful little shop near the church and bought provisions for our train trip (wine, cheese, bread - AND a little package of those marinated anchovies!!). We reluctantly said goodbye to the Miramare and checked out (we easily cleared up a little trouble with a few charges for items not taken from the mini fridge - check your bills carefully). It was the porter's day off, so one of the guys from the kitchen was recruited to help with the bags. Met Renato up on the road at 1:00 and were off to Herculaneum.

We had visited Pompeii last time, so we were trying something different. I had read that it takes about 2 hours to see the ruins, so I alloted 2 1/2 hours for us. We rented the audio guides (my first experience - I love them!) and took some time to examine the frescoes. I guess whoever wrote the above time frame must have gone through at a much faster pace than we used. We still had a good 1/3 left to see when it was time to leave.

Pompeii is larger than Herculaneum. You get a sense of what a Roman city of its time was like, but the buildings are more damaged. Herculaneum was more residential and still has buildings with upper stories, so you get a better idea of what a house was truly like. I can't say which is better, but I'm very glad I had the opportunity to see them both.

Back to Renato to get to the Naples train station on our way to Rome. We arrived with 30 minutes to spare. The train was already in, thank goodness. Another long walk down the tracks. Made a mental note not to make eye contact with or talk to anyone next time. I was looking for the yellow machine to validate our ticket, when a "porter" said he'd help me. Before I knew what was happening, he had grabbed the ticket, stamped, it, and was proceeding to show us to the train. We gave him a euro to get rid of him. I guess if you need help, you might appreciate it. Next time I'll have to be more on the ball myself.

Another full train. This time we shared the area with a young Italian couple carrying a small dog (try that in New York!). Kelli (approximate spelling) was very well behaved. She slept at my feet and listened to her owners when they told her to stop begging for the snacks provided by Trenitalia (an attendant rolls down a cart, airline style, and doles out drinks and "salty or sweet" munchies - nuts/pretzels or cookies/biscotti). I didn't mind sharing, but I figured it was better to obey, too. No time for wine on this trip.
Next stop - Roma.

Duh, I didn?t think to clarify the alata.it site. Sorry and thanks! Yes, when you make the reservations, it is in Italian. I did the same thing as everyone else - copied and pasted it onto a translation site to figure it out. The basilica is free, just give your reservation print-out or reservation number to the guard at the exit (unless there?s one at the entrance when you go). I got mine two weeks before the date I wanted.

Keep it coming Cheryl--making my first trip to Italy next month (my wife has been there before). Going to Rome and Venice. Your Venice report was very helpful and I eagerly await your Rome report.

Cheryl,
I'm enjoying your report. We're going to be on the Amalfi coast in 2 weeks (can't wait!)

Did you make reservations for Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello? It sounds great!

cherylac -- I'm so excited to read your Positano report! I'll be checking into the Miramare next week -- room 203 since 210 was already booked when I reserved. Your description of the hotel, and the excursion to Amalfi/Ravello was fantastic. Thanks so much for posting this!

Thank you very much. Great report.

No, we didn't make reservations for Cumpa Cosimo. Ravello doesn't seem to get too crowded and there were plenty of open tables. They have a pasta sampler plate. We got that last time. It was pretty good, but not as good as a full plate of one particular pasta. Italians next to us got some kind of chicken and gnocchi, which looked great. If we had an easier way of getting there, we would have returned the next day for lunch or dinner!!
Let me know how you like it.
Room 203 looks very nice. Great, romantic balcony!

topping for Cheryl

Hi - thanks so much for this report!! I look forward to each day's "chapter". Your trip sounds wonderful -- next Fall will be our first.

M&M

Part 4 Rome The Final Frontier

Aug. 7 - We got off the train about 7:15 and caught a taxi to our hotel. There were quite a few guys asking if we needed one, but we just ignored them. I had read that you should only use "official" ones with the sign on top, so we headed for the taxi stand. The driver left us off on the Via Del Corso, saying that vehicles were not allowed up the Via Carozze. The hotel was supposedly a short distance up the street. OK.

I was a little nervous about this choice. I picked it based solely from the comments on this board and on Tripadvisor. The rooms looked a little functional on the website, but the price and location seemed perfect, so I took a chance. I am so glad I did! The San Carlo was a great find. It is a little over one block in from the Via Del Corso, one block over from the Via Condotti, and within easy walking distance to all the sights. It is also in a pedestrian zone, so there is very little traffic and it's VERY quiet (a must for me).

The lobby is small, but cozily paneled in wood. I had reserved and confirmed (right before we left the US) the famous room #77, but when we got there we were told that they had given the room to someone else. I was a little put off by that. Maybe I should have called a day or two before and reconfirmed the confirmation? I would definitely return, however.

It was the porter's day off. Is there a porter holiday throughout Italy on Mondays? The receptionist asked if we had need of all our bags, or could we leave one until tomorrow. We left the one with the dirty clothes behind. I guess we could do without them! At first she gamely tried to haul up the other bag, but Phil took it. She was only a little thing and never would have made it up the four flights. Yep, no elevator. But, by then, we were pros at stairs.

We walked down a glowing (sensor lights in places) hallway gleaming with immaculate marble floors. She showed us room #76. It was very nice, facing the back, with a large bathroom/tub. No terrace. Wait, there's a nicer one you should see before you decide. #79 - a larger room, narrow shower stall (the first morning I thought we'd lost water pressure - turns out I accidently bumped itno the shower control and partially shut it off - it is a sueeze) , small terrace. And then there's room #80, smaller, didn't look at the bathroom, slightly larger terrace. I don't know if she had any more keys, because I had already decided on #79. I'd rather have a larger room than anything else. The only problem was she had left the key to 79 back in that room, and they were now locked up in there. Phil chose to crawl under the terrace divider rather than make the poor woman do a round trip to the front desk for a spare.

The rooms are somewhat simple, but they are clean and have the best air-conditioning (you control the temperature - the same in the Miramare, also). There are long French swing-out door/windows (79 & 80 have one pair, I think 76 has two) with shutters. What's cool it that there are also little shutters on the door itself that you can open for light and not let in the hot air. Or you can shut up the door and outside shutters and have a very dark cave.

Phil went to take a shower, and I went on the terrace to have wine and soak up the atmosphere. The terrace was small -only enough room to fit a table and two chairs, but it was large enough for our purposes (larger terraces in other rooms, so ask first - view of the houses across the street, and a couple of other San Carlo terraces - still, a pleasant place to relax). I knew that we were probably not going to use it all that much anyway (not like Positano).

All of a sudden I heard a loud groan. Phil had just realized that the bag left behind contained "the red bag." In there were all our little necessities (from shampoo to sun block and everything in between). Afterwards, when we went downstairs to go to dinner, he showed me the spots in the walls where he had accidentally knocked out plaster on his bumpy trip up. In addition to the HEAVY red bag, we had also put in the bottles of liquor and all the ceramics. No wonder the taxi driver had said "Mama, mia!' when he lifted it. No lie!

Dinner that night was at Al 34. The receptionist recommended it, and it was close. Very crowded, no tables available outside, so we snagged one of the only ones left inside. We sat next to a young couple on their honeymoon and exchanged notes on our trips so far (they enthusiastically recommended Il Latino in Florence as the best restaurant of their trip). They were just finishing up their meal and didn't seem too taken with it.

We thought it was okay. The pace was definitely the fastest of all the restaurants on the trip. They didn't exactly chase you out, but the courses overlapped, and the bill came before we had finished. The crab appetizer was very heavy, and the mixed shell fish pasta was pretty good, but we've had much better here. I forget what else we had; it didn't make too much of an impression. One note - Phil's wine glass had a spider in it. No big deal. The waiter was the first one to spot it. He dumped it out, then put the glass back on the table. After Phil wiped it out with his napkin, the waiter brought him a new one. We don't mind bugs, but not on or in anything that's going to go in our mouths - yuck! Not a repeat.

Walked to the Spanish Steps and had gelato. I don't remember the name of the place, but it's right on that street. Great chocolate and coconut (my favorites). Wandered up to the Piazza Del Popolo (I still haven't seen that church!) and back. Time for bed (our days usually went from 7:00/7:30 to 12:30/1:00). For some reason the stairs seemed longer this time. Oh, look, they've already re-plastered the walls!

Aug 8 - Big mistake to darken the room like that! We didn't wake up till 9:15. Since we had reservations for the Borghese Gallery in the afternoon (reservations are free; www.ticketeria.it), I wanted to hit the catacombs before they closed for lunch. We had to scramble. Breakfast was in two tiny rooms. Hardly anyone was there, so it didn't make a difference to us. I read that they have free room service, so that might be an option during the busy season. Rather less than the usual fare, but great cappuccino and cornetti.

According to my 2002 Rick Steves' book, you could get the Archeobus at the Piazza Venezia (a hop on and off tour thing that goes along the Appian Way). I guess I need a more updated book, because the kiosk was closed when we got there, and no one knew anything about it. The cab drivers denied all knowledge of the catacombs. The horse and buggy guy said to go to the Termini. A tour guide said to go to the Coloseum, so that's where we went.

Went into the tourist kiosk and were told to go to San Giovanni in Laterno and get the #218. They marked it on our map. They also told us that San Sebastiano (one of the catacombs) closed at 12:30 (re-opened at 2:30) and the bus ride was about 30 minutes, so we should hurry. It was now 10:40. It looked kind of far, so we powered walked for the first time this trip. Found San Giovanni, but it took a little time to find the kiosk. We were just about to buy the bus tickets when a packed-full #218 went lumbering past. The buses ran every 30 minutes. Were told that cabs were nearby, so we hiked over to them. It was now 11:25.

Supposedly only a ten minute drive (three drivers had to confer over their maps about how to get there - maybe the guys at Piazza Venezia weren't pulling our leg), so let's do it. Passed San Callisto (the other catacombs), which had quite a few people hanging around the entrance, and went down the road apiece to San Sebastiano. Thanked and paid the cab driver, turned around and noticed that it seemed awfully quiet. No people. Not good. It turns out that the catacombs at San Sebastiano are closed on Sundays. Duh, it did say that in Steves' book, I should have read it more carefully. Don't tell Phil. You think they would have known that little fact at the tourist office! Oh well, it was my only mess-up of the trip.

Ok, 11:40, let's race to San Callisto. I was determined to get to those catacombs. We just made it for the last English-speaking tour of the morning (they closed the ticket office at 12:00). An excellent tour (kids would love it). I highly recommend it, just plan it more carefully than I did.

Caught the #218 back to the city. It got somewhat crowded. I got separated from Phil when I tried to validate our tickets in the little yellow machine (which I couldn't get near anyway - no one checked). The guy standing behind me seemed to be awfully close. Ok, the bus was a little crowded. Then he really mashed up against me and started moving. The bus was not THAT crowded. I turned around and loudly said "Scusi!" He must have jumped back a foot (told you it wasn't that crowded!). I went to stand over near Phil, and the guy moved up towards the front. Brought back memories of the New York subway.

Wandered down to the Coliseum and had lunch overlooking it. Yes, I know it's a tourist spot, but the view is great. The last time we had very good pizza at the last restaurant facing the Coliseum. As we were passing another one (Royal Meat House - if I had noticed the name, I would have steered clear!) to get there, a waiter suckered Phil in with a "nice terrace upstairs."

Never let someone drag you into their restaurant. I read that here, and it's true. The view was great, yes, but the pizza, arugula salad, and caprese salad (can't get enough of that!) were horrible. Their house white was excellent, however, and the pasta with artichokes was pretty good (spread the sauce on the pizza and it became edible). Had very nice, interesting conversations with people at the surrounding tables. First with a couple from Arizona (he was originally from Naples), and then with a Turkish family. That made up for the crummy food.

We had to be at the Borghese by 4:30 to get our tickets. We wanted to see the Campo de Fiore first, so we headed there, with a stroll through the Forum on the way (took a tour last time - great). We were trying to see everything we had missed on our first trip. I guess the flowers are out in the morning, because there was nothing there when we arrived. We were having such a nice time strolling around, that we elected to skip cabbing it to the Borghese (I know art lovers will cringe over that one), and just continue with our walk. Revisited the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, gelato shops, window shopped the Via Condotti, and stopped for a cool drink at an outdoor café before heading back to the hotel for the late afternoon shower.

Dinner that night was at a place we had discovered wandering around the Trevi last time (going down Via del Corso towards the Victor Emmanuel monument it's on a little street in between Via Della Murate and Via Dell'Umilta, opposite a Chinese Restaurant, sorry - I thought I had a card!). Excellent pasta All'Amatriciana and fried mixed seafood.

Aug 9 - We arranged for a wake up call to avoid a repeat of yesterday and kept the shutters open. Enjoyed a nice leisurely breakfast and strolled to St. Peter's, where we had reserved tickets for a 10:45 Scavi tour ([email protected]). It's an hour and a half, they take no more than 12 in a group, kids between 11 & 15 have to have a parent, they don't take kids younger than that.

I attempted to get the tickets about two months before the date and received an email saying they had my request, would get back to me, and not to try again (or words to that effect). Reading threads on this board, I saw that you couldn't reserve more than six weeks before your date. I waited four weeks, and when I had not heard back, decided to try again anyway. I received a confirmation and reference number within three days of that request. Sent the check ($12 US for each ticket, 10 euro, credit card by fax - all the instructions are in the email) and was emailed the receipt.

The tour was fantastic. Even Phil said it was the best one he had ever been on. Our tour guide was VERY enthusiastic and interesting - she'd be great telling spooky stories a campfire. A lot of history and a lot to see. This should be a must, if you can get to it!

After the tour we revisited the inside of the Basilica (I had to see the Pieta again), then went to stand on the line to get into the Vatican Museums. Last time the line was well past St. Peter's and moved very slowly, so we had given up. This time the line seemed shorter. I left Phil and tried walking the line to see where the entrance was. I went around one corner, up one block, turned and went half-way up another block, saw the line went out of sight around another corner, and walked back to Phil. I still don't know where the entrance is, but I figured we had at least an hour's wait in the broiling afternoon sun. For some reason I was having a hard time tolerating the heat that day. Oh, well, perhaps I'll see the Sistine Chapel next time (Phil's already seen it, so he didn't care).

Walked back to the area near the hotel for lunch and a nap, with a stop along the way for my marble fruit (the store was closed for lunch). We had planned to eat at l'Enotec Antica on Via della Croce (one block over from the San Carlo - liked it last time). When we got there, Phil changed his mind and decided to try the place opposite it (large crowd, lots of businessmen, a little fancier). A lesson in not letting appearances fool you. The food was not half as good as at l'Enotec. Not a repeat.

I needed to walk after that, so we decided to go back to the marble fruit place. Friends from work are avid collectors and come back from their trips crowing about their hauls. I didn't get to go to their favorite shop last time, so I was now on a mission. The shop is called Marmi Line, on the Via dei Coronari, which starts near the Piazza Navona. I suppose they have a lot of other stuff, but I was only interested in the fruit. It looks so much like the real thing, it's incredible (the peaches, pears, tangerines, and bananas are amazing). I bought 12 pieces, and Phil picked up some coasters (the dog ate all our wooden ones - these should stop him!).

Dragged back to the hotel for a short nap. Along the way we stopped in a wonderful deli and got some prosciutto (the owner cut us all a slice to taste - WOW) and another type of cured meat (I don't know what it was; I asked for something piccante) that was also great. Airplane provisions to go along with the cheese left from Positano, you know.

Early that evening we met our Italian travel agent for a drink and a chat, and then set off for a late dinner. She had made reservations for us in Trastevere at a place called L'Archetto (Roma Via G. Mmeli, 23, 06 5815275). Great crostini, fabulous pasta, and a very interesting wine list. The pizza looked fabulous, also. The only bad thing was having to take a cab there and back (I don't know how far it actually was to walk, but it was too late for us to start trying).

We stopped for a last gelato at Giolitti (end of Via Di Campo Marzio, the travel agent's favorite place). The Baci Perugina was outrageous! One last stroll to the Spanish Steps (we were disappointed in them this trip - last trip, also Aug 9/10, there were loads of people hanging out, singing and playing music each night - this time it was dead).

Aug 10 - Breakfast, a quick walk, and it was time to pack up for the trip home. Called downstairs for a porter to help with the bags. Waited for about 15 minutes, then called again. Was told that he was sent to the wrong room by mistake. Hah, maybe they really don't have a porter! Started to lug the stuff down ourselves and were met on the stairs by our reserved driver (www.limoservicerome.com - highly recommended on this board and I wholeheartedly agree - just make sure you don't add an "s" when you type in "service&quot. He had managed to drive his car right up to the hotel. Maybe it depends upon the day or time? Pleasant, cool, comfortable trip to the airport.

Made sure we got regular seats this time upon check-in (much better). We had an hour and a half to kill and 20 euros to blow, so we cruised the duty free shops. We ended up with another bottle of olive oil (the Italian buying it praised its "perfume and strength&quot and some chocolate for the kids.

We had a nice picnic on the plane. The stewardess did a classic double take when she passed us with our cheeses, meats, cup of olives, anchovies, and bread (from breakfast) spread out on the tables. Probably wished she had some - the airplane fare seemed to have gotten even worse!!!!!

So now we're home after all that planning. I have been making up little jars of flavored olive oil and cooking Italian meals. The marble fruit looks great on the counter among the Ravello ceramics. My sister took one of the meloncellos (well, she did watch the dog for us), and we gave one of the limoncellos to friends to show our appreciation for the Tequila they brought us from Mexico. My final task is to make a picture album, so we can look back and reminisce about a fabulous trip.

Thanks for letting me share this with you!

Buona giornata - Cheryl

Oh Cheryl, what a great report. I hate to see it end. Can't you go back again soon and write another one?

Glad you had such a good trip, Cheryl.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for all the positive feedback. You have great reading stamina (wish my students did!).

My daughter has been so jealous hearing about this trip (and the previous one) that she has begged me to consider a shopping/sightseeing expedition with her next year. My treat, of course! It's a thought. Sicily sounds intriguing, too. Will definitely do something next year and post again.

Great report Cheryl. We also have a reservation for a Scavi tour next month--how far in advance of your tour did you arrive? Did you have to wait on a security line to get into the Vatican first?
Thanks.

We got there about 10 minutes before the tour. The Ufficio Scavi is located to the left of St. Peter's Basilica. Go past the tourist office to where St. Peter's exit gate is. The guard there will tell you where to go. Any of the policemen can alos help you find it.