Trip Report: Leeds, York and Hadrian's Wall
Jun 12th, 2007, 11:04 AM
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Trip Report: Leeds, York and Hadrian's Wall
My wife and I recently returned from a 12-day trip to England to visit our son, who was finishing up a Spring semester abroad at Leeds University. We spent two days with him in Leeds, took him to York for three days, then traveled on our own to Whitby (one night), Hadrian’s Wall (two nights), and finished in London (three nights). Among the highlights of our trip were the city of York, Castle Howard, Fountains Abbey, Scarborough Castle, the North Yorkshire Moors, Whitby Abbey, Durham Cathedral, and several sites along Hadrian’s Wall. Trip photos are posted at mysite.verizon.net/dgilbert53/travels/.
DAY 1 – Thursday, May 17 – London to Leeds
Touched down at London Heathrow about 8:00 a.m. Heathrow customs was jam packed, and it took us about 45 minutes to make our way through. Finally proceeded to the Piccadilly Line Underground station for Terminals 1, 2, and 3, paid £8 for two one-way tickets to Kings Cross Station, and caught a waiting train for the 50-minute ride across town. We arrived at King’s Cross with about 30 minutes to spare to make the 11:10 a.m. GNER train to Leeds. Our son had bought us train tickets in advance at a substantial discount, and mailed them to us in the U.S. He paid £10 each for our “off-peak” tickets from Kings Cross to Leeds, and about £26 each for our “peak-time” return tickets. The regular walk-up “Saver Fare” is £73.70 each way. So much like French SNCF “Prem” fares bought in advance, buying UK train tickets in advance is a good deal. Start at the National Rail website at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
Note that the National Rail website is just a clearing house for private, independent passenger train companies that operate various lines throughout England. GNER is the principal company that operates passenger service between London, Leeds, York, and Edinburgh. While virtually everyone we talked to in England bemoans the privatization of their passenger rail service, we found the trains extremely clean, quite fast, and amazingly punctual. Our train left Kings Cross exactly at 11:10 a.m. and arrived in Leeds on time at 1:41 p.m.
Our son met us at the station, which is adjacent to City Square in downtown Leeds. Great resources for our exploration of Leeds and greater Yorkshire came from Fodor’s posts right here by bilboburgler and Morgana. We walked around the corner to The Queen’s Hotel (http://www.qhotels.co.uk/hotels/the-...west-yorkshire) where we had booked a double room for one night at £105. Because our son didn’t need to vacate his dorm room at Leeds University until mid-June, it was just my wife and I at the hotel. We checked into our room, dropped off our luggage, and then explored downtown Leeds for the afternoon. The Queens Hotel is a lovely modern hotel that was just recently renovated. It’s location is also superb: attached to the train station, across the street from the City Square, a short walk to lots (lots!) of shopping, and adjacent to the stop for the “free bus” which runs around the perimeter of downtown Leeds.
We visited the “trendy” shops at the Corn Exchange, the “upmarket” shops in the Victoria Quarter arcade, and various streets and outdoor walking “malls” in between. Our son, who is pursuing a degree in Medieval Studies, had already visited the Royal Armouries Museum which houses the national collection of arms and armour, so we decided to skip that stop on this trip (though our son raved about the wonderful collections on display there). We then took the “free bus” to the campus of Leeds University. There our son took us on a tour of the campus, which sprawls across a broad area of northwest Leeds. While we saw a few older buildings, the campus was dominated by large modern buildings—not at all like the famous campuses of Oxford and Cambridge. I wouldn’t recommend Leeds University as a must-see tourist stop, but we were quite interested to see where our son lived, who some of his “flatmates” were, and where he took his classes. That said, as a big fan of The Who I was delighted to find a plaque on one of the campus buildings that indicated it was in this auditorium, on February 14, 1970, that The Who’s “Live at Leeds” album was recorded.
We returned to downtown Leeds for a wonderful, if rather expensive, early dinner at Bibis, an Italian restaurant in an Art deco setting (www.bibisrestaurant.com). I’ll talk more later about the expense of dining and sleeping in England. Finally, with jet lag having caught up to my wife and I, we bid our son good night and fell fast asleep by 8:00 p.m.
DAY 1 – Thursday, May 17 – London to Leeds
Touched down at London Heathrow about 8:00 a.m. Heathrow customs was jam packed, and it took us about 45 minutes to make our way through. Finally proceeded to the Piccadilly Line Underground station for Terminals 1, 2, and 3, paid £8 for two one-way tickets to Kings Cross Station, and caught a waiting train for the 50-minute ride across town. We arrived at King’s Cross with about 30 minutes to spare to make the 11:10 a.m. GNER train to Leeds. Our son had bought us train tickets in advance at a substantial discount, and mailed them to us in the U.S. He paid £10 each for our “off-peak” tickets from Kings Cross to Leeds, and about £26 each for our “peak-time” return tickets. The regular walk-up “Saver Fare” is £73.70 each way. So much like French SNCF “Prem” fares bought in advance, buying UK train tickets in advance is a good deal. Start at the National Rail website at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
Note that the National Rail website is just a clearing house for private, independent passenger train companies that operate various lines throughout England. GNER is the principal company that operates passenger service between London, Leeds, York, and Edinburgh. While virtually everyone we talked to in England bemoans the privatization of their passenger rail service, we found the trains extremely clean, quite fast, and amazingly punctual. Our train left Kings Cross exactly at 11:10 a.m. and arrived in Leeds on time at 1:41 p.m.
Our son met us at the station, which is adjacent to City Square in downtown Leeds. Great resources for our exploration of Leeds and greater Yorkshire came from Fodor’s posts right here by bilboburgler and Morgana. We walked around the corner to The Queen’s Hotel (http://www.qhotels.co.uk/hotels/the-...west-yorkshire) where we had booked a double room for one night at £105. Because our son didn’t need to vacate his dorm room at Leeds University until mid-June, it was just my wife and I at the hotel. We checked into our room, dropped off our luggage, and then explored downtown Leeds for the afternoon. The Queens Hotel is a lovely modern hotel that was just recently renovated. It’s location is also superb: attached to the train station, across the street from the City Square, a short walk to lots (lots!) of shopping, and adjacent to the stop for the “free bus” which runs around the perimeter of downtown Leeds.
We visited the “trendy” shops at the Corn Exchange, the “upmarket” shops in the Victoria Quarter arcade, and various streets and outdoor walking “malls” in between. Our son, who is pursuing a degree in Medieval Studies, had already visited the Royal Armouries Museum which houses the national collection of arms and armour, so we decided to skip that stop on this trip (though our son raved about the wonderful collections on display there). We then took the “free bus” to the campus of Leeds University. There our son took us on a tour of the campus, which sprawls across a broad area of northwest Leeds. While we saw a few older buildings, the campus was dominated by large modern buildings—not at all like the famous campuses of Oxford and Cambridge. I wouldn’t recommend Leeds University as a must-see tourist stop, but we were quite interested to see where our son lived, who some of his “flatmates” were, and where he took his classes. That said, as a big fan of The Who I was delighted to find a plaque on one of the campus buildings that indicated it was in this auditorium, on February 14, 1970, that The Who’s “Live at Leeds” album was recorded.
We returned to downtown Leeds for a wonderful, if rather expensive, early dinner at Bibis, an Italian restaurant in an Art deco setting (www.bibisrestaurant.com). I’ll talk more later about the expense of dining and sleeping in England. Finally, with jet lag having caught up to my wife and I, we bid our son good night and fell fast asleep by 8:00 p.m.
Jun 12th, 2007, 11:40 AM
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I love to read reports about Leeds and the area. (My mom was from Leeds) The pictures are great. Ah, the 199 steps to Whitby Abby. I remember it well, on a cold and rainy day, July 1, 1998!! Look forward to reading more. Thanks.
Jun 12th, 2007, 12:09 PM
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DAY 2 – Friday, May 18 – Leeds to York
We woke our son up “early” in order to catch a mid-morning train to York (our son typically sleeps until noon when he doesn’t have class). The walk-up “off-peak” one-way fare was £9 per person—£27 for the three of us. There are trains to York every half hour, so we just walked out to the platform around 10:15 a.m. and waited for the next train. The stations at both Leeds and York were extremely busy, and it’s apparent that you can catch a train at virtually any hour to any mid-sized town or city in England and Scotland. What a difference from most towns and cities in the U.S.A!
At York we had booked a triple room for three nights at the Carlton House Hotel for £105 per night (www.carltonhouse.co.uk). The hotel is just a short walk from the York train station and very near the Micklegate Bar entrance to York. This “hotel” is really just a typical English bed and breakfast, and a “cooked breakfast” was included in the rate. Our triple room was lovely, situated on the second floor (“first European floor”) with one double bed and two single beds, plus an “en suite” bathroom. The breakfast room is in the basement, where you can help yourself to cold cereal, juice, fruit, and yogurt. You can also order scrambled eggs, poached eggs, or a traditional English breakfast at no extra cost (all served with toast). There is also a very small car park at the rear of the hotel, where we parked the rental car we would soon be picking up.
Our plan for York—which we had previously visited in 2001—was to spend our first day revisiting our favorite city sites. These included York Minster, The Shambles, the city walls, and Betty’s Tea Room. These are must-see sights for all first-time visitors to York. At York Minster we took the self-guided audio tour of the “Undercroft”, the building’s historic basement where both Roman and Norman remains have been uncovered. The Undercroft was apparently not open to the public during our 2001 visit, so this was quite new for us—and I highly recommend it! As you’ll soon learn, any sight that showcases Roman ruins in England from the First through Fourth Centuries A.D. is a must-see stop for me.
We had lunch at Betty’s Cafe Tea Room on St. Helen’s Square. This has become a local institution, and people we met in London, Leeds, and York all told us to eat here. So expect a crowd here pretty much any time of the day. A little pricey, but excellent food and wonderful desserts.
At the end of the day, we picked up our rental car from EuropeCar at the York train station. We had booked a four-door “Economy” manual transmission Fiat through AutoEurope (www.AutoEurope.com) for US $330 for seven days. We decided to pick the car up in York rather than Leeds because York is a relatively easy city to drive in and out of, whereas Leeds is not (two people we met on our trip, both from Leeds, agreed). Also, the EuropeCar rental office is right in the York train station.
We had dinner in York at the Manor Arms, a lively pub on the south end of town with good food and plenty of atmosphere. The menu included such English staples as Fish and Chips and Shepherd’s Pie, as well as fresh seafood and even lasagna.
We woke our son up “early” in order to catch a mid-morning train to York (our son typically sleeps until noon when he doesn’t have class). The walk-up “off-peak” one-way fare was £9 per person—£27 for the three of us. There are trains to York every half hour, so we just walked out to the platform around 10:15 a.m. and waited for the next train. The stations at both Leeds and York were extremely busy, and it’s apparent that you can catch a train at virtually any hour to any mid-sized town or city in England and Scotland. What a difference from most towns and cities in the U.S.A!
At York we had booked a triple room for three nights at the Carlton House Hotel for £105 per night (www.carltonhouse.co.uk). The hotel is just a short walk from the York train station and very near the Micklegate Bar entrance to York. This “hotel” is really just a typical English bed and breakfast, and a “cooked breakfast” was included in the rate. Our triple room was lovely, situated on the second floor (“first European floor”) with one double bed and two single beds, plus an “en suite” bathroom. The breakfast room is in the basement, where you can help yourself to cold cereal, juice, fruit, and yogurt. You can also order scrambled eggs, poached eggs, or a traditional English breakfast at no extra cost (all served with toast). There is also a very small car park at the rear of the hotel, where we parked the rental car we would soon be picking up.
Our plan for York—which we had previously visited in 2001—was to spend our first day revisiting our favorite city sites. These included York Minster, The Shambles, the city walls, and Betty’s Tea Room. These are must-see sights for all first-time visitors to York. At York Minster we took the self-guided audio tour of the “Undercroft”, the building’s historic basement where both Roman and Norman remains have been uncovered. The Undercroft was apparently not open to the public during our 2001 visit, so this was quite new for us—and I highly recommend it! As you’ll soon learn, any sight that showcases Roman ruins in England from the First through Fourth Centuries A.D. is a must-see stop for me.
We had lunch at Betty’s Cafe Tea Room on St. Helen’s Square. This has become a local institution, and people we met in London, Leeds, and York all told us to eat here. So expect a crowd here pretty much any time of the day. A little pricey, but excellent food and wonderful desserts.
At the end of the day, we picked up our rental car from EuropeCar at the York train station. We had booked a four-door “Economy” manual transmission Fiat through AutoEurope (www.AutoEurope.com) for US $330 for seven days. We decided to pick the car up in York rather than Leeds because York is a relatively easy city to drive in and out of, whereas Leeds is not (two people we met on our trip, both from Leeds, agreed). Also, the EuropeCar rental office is right in the York train station.
We had dinner in York at the Manor Arms, a lively pub on the south end of town with good food and plenty of atmosphere. The menu included such English staples as Fish and Chips and Shepherd’s Pie, as well as fresh seafood and even lasagna.
Jun 12th, 2007, 01:03 PM
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DAY 3 – Saturday, May 19 – Castle Howard and Scarborough
We managed to get our son out of bed by 9:00 a.m., and headed northeast out of York on the A64 in the direction of Malton to Castle Howard (www.castlehoward.co.uk). Billed as “one of Britain’s finest historic houses,” Castle Howard is a magnificent estate, famous as the site of the television series “Brideshead Revisited.” We took the house tour and explored the grounds for about three hours (purchasing a family ticket for the three of us at £26.50). We also had a wonderful lunch in the “Courtyard Café,” which features fresh local products from the estate’s own grounds.
From Castle Howard, we continued northeast of the A64 to Scarborough. Our destination was Scarborough Castle, an English Heritage site that sits on a bluff above the town of Scarborough and the North Sea (www.english-heritage.org.uk/scarboroughcastle). Scarborough is a busy, bustling seafront town, and finding our way through town to the castle was an adventure. Signs to the castle generally helped point us in the right direction, but when we ended up climbing a steep, narrow road past several row houses, we were quite sure we were lost. But just as we were about to turn around, the saw the castle gate at the top of the hill. Scarborough Castle sits above both town and sea in a beautiful setting, and a visit is highly recommended.
After a couple of hours in Scarborough, we headed back to York. Dinner to night was at Delrio’s Italian restaurant adjacent to Micklegate Bar. Excellent food, great atmosphere, but rather expensive. Our dinner for three, including starters, dinner specials, dessert, and a bottle of house white wine was £89 (US $160). We also had our first confusing moment regarding tipping in England. I’ve always understood that meals served in England include “Service” or gratuity (certainly that’s the case we’ve found in London restaurants). So when the credit card receipt arrived for my signature and included a blank line for “gratuity”, I simply ignored it and wrote in the meal total only. Well, the hotel owner later told us different restaurants have different policies, and the restaurant receipt should always specify if and when Service is included.
DAY 4 – Sunday, May 20 – Fountains Abbey and Harrogate
This morning it was off to Fountains Abbey near the town of Ripon (www.fountainsabbey.org.uk). Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal—an 18th Century English water garden adjacent to the 12th Century Benedictine abbey—are managed by the National Trust. A family pass for the combined site was £20. We explored the evocative abbey ruins and beautiful water garden landscape for the entire morning, then headed south to Harrogate for lunch at the original Betty’s Cafe Tea Room. Harrogate is a lovely town worth exploring on foot, with lots of interesting shops and parks.
Because our son needed to prepare for final exams on Tuesday and Wednesday, we dropped him off at Leeds University Sunday afternoon and managed to find our way back to York by skirting the city of Leeds to the north on the A58(M)—Inner Ring Road—and A64. We had dinner in York at Delrio’s again, this time opting for “inexpensive” but delicious fire-baked pizzas (about £28 or US $56 including two glasses of wine but no starters or dessert). We had the same waiter as the previous night, asked him directly about whether the bill included “Service” (he said it did not), and so left him a generous tip to make up for the previous night. I’ll talk about costs for food and accommodation in England at the end of my trip report, and explain why I always put the words “inexpensive” in quotes.
We managed to get our son out of bed by 9:00 a.m., and headed northeast out of York on the A64 in the direction of Malton to Castle Howard (www.castlehoward.co.uk). Billed as “one of Britain’s finest historic houses,” Castle Howard is a magnificent estate, famous as the site of the television series “Brideshead Revisited.” We took the house tour and explored the grounds for about three hours (purchasing a family ticket for the three of us at £26.50). We also had a wonderful lunch in the “Courtyard Café,” which features fresh local products from the estate’s own grounds.
From Castle Howard, we continued northeast of the A64 to Scarborough. Our destination was Scarborough Castle, an English Heritage site that sits on a bluff above the town of Scarborough and the North Sea (www.english-heritage.org.uk/scarboroughcastle). Scarborough is a busy, bustling seafront town, and finding our way through town to the castle was an adventure. Signs to the castle generally helped point us in the right direction, but when we ended up climbing a steep, narrow road past several row houses, we were quite sure we were lost. But just as we were about to turn around, the saw the castle gate at the top of the hill. Scarborough Castle sits above both town and sea in a beautiful setting, and a visit is highly recommended.
After a couple of hours in Scarborough, we headed back to York. Dinner to night was at Delrio’s Italian restaurant adjacent to Micklegate Bar. Excellent food, great atmosphere, but rather expensive. Our dinner for three, including starters, dinner specials, dessert, and a bottle of house white wine was £89 (US $160). We also had our first confusing moment regarding tipping in England. I’ve always understood that meals served in England include “Service” or gratuity (certainly that’s the case we’ve found in London restaurants). So when the credit card receipt arrived for my signature and included a blank line for “gratuity”, I simply ignored it and wrote in the meal total only. Well, the hotel owner later told us different restaurants have different policies, and the restaurant receipt should always specify if and when Service is included.
DAY 4 – Sunday, May 20 – Fountains Abbey and Harrogate
This morning it was off to Fountains Abbey near the town of Ripon (www.fountainsabbey.org.uk). Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal—an 18th Century English water garden adjacent to the 12th Century Benedictine abbey—are managed by the National Trust. A family pass for the combined site was £20. We explored the evocative abbey ruins and beautiful water garden landscape for the entire morning, then headed south to Harrogate for lunch at the original Betty’s Cafe Tea Room. Harrogate is a lovely town worth exploring on foot, with lots of interesting shops and parks.
Because our son needed to prepare for final exams on Tuesday and Wednesday, we dropped him off at Leeds University Sunday afternoon and managed to find our way back to York by skirting the city of Leeds to the north on the A58(M)—Inner Ring Road—and A64. We had dinner in York at Delrio’s again, this time opting for “inexpensive” but delicious fire-baked pizzas (about £28 or US $56 including two glasses of wine but no starters or dessert). We had the same waiter as the previous night, asked him directly about whether the bill included “Service” (he said it did not), and so left him a generous tip to make up for the previous night. I’ll talk about costs for food and accommodation in England at the end of my trip report, and explain why I always put the words “inexpensive” in quotes.
Jun 12th, 2007, 04:18 PM
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Rumseydog:
Great trip report on your visit to see your son. You did well getting him up early and going before noon.
Touched down at London Heathrow about 8:00 am - may I ask where you are from?
Looking forward to more.
Sandy
Great trip report on your visit to see your son. You did well getting him up early and going before noon.
Touched down at London Heathrow about 8:00 am - may I ask where you are from?
Looking forward to more.
Sandy
Jun 12th, 2007, 04:47 PM
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DAY 5 – Monday, May 21 – North York Moors National Park and Whitby
With our son back in Leeds, the Carlton House Hotel kindly reduced our bill for our triple room from £105 to £70 for our last night in York. We were also now able to get an early start, as my wife and I—both in our mid-50s—routinely get up around 8:00 a.m. We checked out of the hotel early and began our journey that would take us across North Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland for the next three days.
Today’s destination was Whitby on the North Yorkshire coast of the North Sea. Among the highlights of our drive was North York Moors National Park, which features the largest continuous tract of heather-covered moor land in England—and lots and lots of sheep! We took a side trip to Goathland, a picturesque small town that draws lots of tourists, and is a station stop for the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (aka the “Hogwart’s Express”). We had a very nice lunch in a pub right in Goathland.
We arrived at Whitby around mid-afternoon, and proceeded to Whitby Abbey. The site, which sits atop a picturesque bluff overlooking the town and the North Sea, is managed by English Heritage, and admission was £4.20 per person. We also walked through the adjacent cemetery at St. Mary’s Church, where there are wonderful views of Whitby Harbour and the North Sea.
We then drove into town and arrived at the Grantley House B&B, a lovely row house on Hudson Street on a hill above the north side of Whitby Harbour (www.grantleyhouse.com). Justin, who manages the establishment, met us with a warm and friendly smile, and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. A standard double was £54 for the night, including a lovely cooked breakfast. It’s a short walk down the hill into the downtown area, and although we had heard of the great fish and chips at the Magpie Café, Justin instead recommended Mister Chips Fish Restaurant, which was across the “swing bridge” on the other side of the harbour. My wife had the cod fish & chips, and I had the haddock fish & chips. The food was fresh and delicious—and a little less expensive than the Magpie Café. I think we spent about £30 including a large Newcastle Brown Ale and glass of white wine. After dinner we walked out to the end of the west pier, and noticed how dramatically the tide had come in since we had arrived in town.
With our son back in Leeds, the Carlton House Hotel kindly reduced our bill for our triple room from £105 to £70 for our last night in York. We were also now able to get an early start, as my wife and I—both in our mid-50s—routinely get up around 8:00 a.m. We checked out of the hotel early and began our journey that would take us across North Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland for the next three days.
Today’s destination was Whitby on the North Yorkshire coast of the North Sea. Among the highlights of our drive was North York Moors National Park, which features the largest continuous tract of heather-covered moor land in England—and lots and lots of sheep! We took a side trip to Goathland, a picturesque small town that draws lots of tourists, and is a station stop for the North Yorkshire Moors Railway (aka the “Hogwart’s Express”). We had a very nice lunch in a pub right in Goathland.
We arrived at Whitby around mid-afternoon, and proceeded to Whitby Abbey. The site, which sits atop a picturesque bluff overlooking the town and the North Sea, is managed by English Heritage, and admission was £4.20 per person. We also walked through the adjacent cemetery at St. Mary’s Church, where there are wonderful views of Whitby Harbour and the North Sea.
We then drove into town and arrived at the Grantley House B&B, a lovely row house on Hudson Street on a hill above the north side of Whitby Harbour (www.grantleyhouse.com). Justin, who manages the establishment, met us with a warm and friendly smile, and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. A standard double was £54 for the night, including a lovely cooked breakfast. It’s a short walk down the hill into the downtown area, and although we had heard of the great fish and chips at the Magpie Café, Justin instead recommended Mister Chips Fish Restaurant, which was across the “swing bridge” on the other side of the harbour. My wife had the cod fish & chips, and I had the haddock fish & chips. The food was fresh and delicious—and a little less expensive than the Magpie Café. I think we spent about £30 including a large Newcastle Brown Ale and glass of white wine. After dinner we walked out to the end of the west pier, and noticed how dramatically the tide had come in since we had arrived in town.
Jun 12th, 2007, 06:20 PM
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DAY 6 – Tuesday, May 22 – Durham Cathedral and Hadrian’s Wall
We left Whitby around 11 a.m. after doing a load of laundry at a Laundromat next door to Mister Chips. We made our way to Durham, where we stopped for lunch and explored Durham Cathedral (www.durhamcathedral.co.uk). The cathedral is one of the oldest and largest Norman structures in England, and well worth a visit. There’s a parking garage adjacent to the River Wear as you come into town on the A690 (on the left if you’re arriving from the east). Look for signs or ask for directions to the cathedral—it’s a short walk from the parking garage.
Our final destination today was Hadrian’s Wall and the Beggar Bog Farmhouse B&B near Housesteads Roman Fort. We stopped in Corbridge and visited Corbridge Roman Site—a 2nd Century site along the “Stangate” (the old Roman road that paralleled Hadrian’s Wall). While the setting here in a farm field is not quite as picturesque as that of either Vindolanda Roman Fort or Housesteads Roman Fort (see below), you can still explore old Roman streets and see the ruined foundations of civic buildings that are very, very old. The adjacent museum contains some interesting artifacts including inscribed Roman tablets and a variety of statues. English Heritage manages this site, and the entrance fee is £4.10 per adult.
We found the Beggar Bog Farmhouse B&B after first driving right past it—even though it’s the only house along this section of the B6318 (Military Road). Well, there’s no sign outside, and the owner told us she took it down a long time ago to discourage visitors from inquiring about lodging at all hours of the day and night. Anyway, the setting is perfect, surrounded by sheep pastures and bordered to the north by the ridge that carries Hadrian’s Wall. The house is also quite nice, though our bed had tired old springs and had seen much better days. The rate, including a hearty cooked breakfast and really good coffee, was £30 per person per night, or £60 per night for the two of us (www.beggarbog.com). Note that the owner never answered our initial email inquiry, so we ended up calling to reserve a room. Also, she does not accept credit cards, so bring cash! An alternative accommodation just two miles down the road at Once Brewed is Vallum Lodge, where we had stayed back in 2001 (www.vallum-lodge.co.uk). We liked Vallum Lodge, but just wanted to try a “farmhouse-style” B&B on this trip. If we were to return to Hadrian’s Wall, we’d probably opt for Vallum Lodge.
We had a wonderful dinner at The Milecastle Inn on the Military Road about four miles west of Beggar Bog. This is a traditional pub with good food and great atmosphere. And frankly, there aren’t too many other places to eat around here.
DAY 7 – Wednesday, May 23 – Hiking at Hadrian’s Wall
Today we left our car at the B&B and took an all-day, 7-1/2 mile circuit hike along Hadrian’s Wall. We had picked up a nice color map at the Twice Brewed Visitor Center in Northumberland National Park titled “Walking Around Hadrian’s Wall: Once Brewed, Vindolanda and Housesteads.” There are a series of maps with different hikes available at the visitor center, and the one we purchased cost £1. The hike took us from Housesteads Roman Fort across several sheep pastures to the Stangate (old Roman road—literally “stone road” in Latin), west to Vindolanda Roman Fort, north to Steel Rigg on Hadrian’s Wall, and then east along Hadrian’s Wall back to Housesteads. If you like hiking, do this hike, as the scenery is simply spectacular along Hadrian’s Wall. Also, the paths and back roads around Vindolanda were quiet and very pleasant.
We had visited Vindolanda Roman Fort on our previous trip in 2001, so we skipped it this time (www.vindolanda.com). However, this is a fascinating, picturesque site and there are usually active archeological digs going on during the summer months. There is also a great museum at the site which is well worth a visit. The site is managed by a private foundation, and admission is £4.95 for adults. Don’t miss Chesterholm Roman milestone just outside the fort (clearly marked on the above-mentioned map). It’s one of the original milestones along the Stangate, and it’s easy to miss without the map.
The Twice Brewed Visitor Center was about the halfway point of our hike, so we stopped here to enjoy the picnic lunch we had packed for ourselves. The visitor center sells snacks and drinks, and has outdoor picnic tables.
The walk along Hadrian’s Wall from Steel Rigg to Housesteads along the Whin Sill ridge is perhaps one of the most picturesque and dramatic sections of the entire wall (www.hadrians-wall.org). We passed three Milecastles (small forts along the wall at one-mile intervals built to accommodate about 20 soldiers) and Sycamore Gap—featured in the movie “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves” starring Kevin Costner. Hadrian’s Wall follows the rolling, hilly landscape, so there are some steep climbs and descents along the way.
We finished at Housesteads Roman Fort, which unlike Vindolanda was built directly on Hadrian’s Wall. The fort sits high on a ridge with spectacular views in all directions. The site is managed by English Heritage, and the entrance fee for adults is £4.10. A large portion of the fort has been excavated, and wayside exhibits (and an optional audio guide) explain the buildings and fortifications.
Dinner tonight was at The Milecastle Inn again.
We left Whitby around 11 a.m. after doing a load of laundry at a Laundromat next door to Mister Chips. We made our way to Durham, where we stopped for lunch and explored Durham Cathedral (www.durhamcathedral.co.uk). The cathedral is one of the oldest and largest Norman structures in England, and well worth a visit. There’s a parking garage adjacent to the River Wear as you come into town on the A690 (on the left if you’re arriving from the east). Look for signs or ask for directions to the cathedral—it’s a short walk from the parking garage.
Our final destination today was Hadrian’s Wall and the Beggar Bog Farmhouse B&B near Housesteads Roman Fort. We stopped in Corbridge and visited Corbridge Roman Site—a 2nd Century site along the “Stangate” (the old Roman road that paralleled Hadrian’s Wall). While the setting here in a farm field is not quite as picturesque as that of either Vindolanda Roman Fort or Housesteads Roman Fort (see below), you can still explore old Roman streets and see the ruined foundations of civic buildings that are very, very old. The adjacent museum contains some interesting artifacts including inscribed Roman tablets and a variety of statues. English Heritage manages this site, and the entrance fee is £4.10 per adult.
We found the Beggar Bog Farmhouse B&B after first driving right past it—even though it’s the only house along this section of the B6318 (Military Road). Well, there’s no sign outside, and the owner told us she took it down a long time ago to discourage visitors from inquiring about lodging at all hours of the day and night. Anyway, the setting is perfect, surrounded by sheep pastures and bordered to the north by the ridge that carries Hadrian’s Wall. The house is also quite nice, though our bed had tired old springs and had seen much better days. The rate, including a hearty cooked breakfast and really good coffee, was £30 per person per night, or £60 per night for the two of us (www.beggarbog.com). Note that the owner never answered our initial email inquiry, so we ended up calling to reserve a room. Also, she does not accept credit cards, so bring cash! An alternative accommodation just two miles down the road at Once Brewed is Vallum Lodge, where we had stayed back in 2001 (www.vallum-lodge.co.uk). We liked Vallum Lodge, but just wanted to try a “farmhouse-style” B&B on this trip. If we were to return to Hadrian’s Wall, we’d probably opt for Vallum Lodge.
We had a wonderful dinner at The Milecastle Inn on the Military Road about four miles west of Beggar Bog. This is a traditional pub with good food and great atmosphere. And frankly, there aren’t too many other places to eat around here.
DAY 7 – Wednesday, May 23 – Hiking at Hadrian’s Wall
Today we left our car at the B&B and took an all-day, 7-1/2 mile circuit hike along Hadrian’s Wall. We had picked up a nice color map at the Twice Brewed Visitor Center in Northumberland National Park titled “Walking Around Hadrian’s Wall: Once Brewed, Vindolanda and Housesteads.” There are a series of maps with different hikes available at the visitor center, and the one we purchased cost £1. The hike took us from Housesteads Roman Fort across several sheep pastures to the Stangate (old Roman road—literally “stone road” in Latin), west to Vindolanda Roman Fort, north to Steel Rigg on Hadrian’s Wall, and then east along Hadrian’s Wall back to Housesteads. If you like hiking, do this hike, as the scenery is simply spectacular along Hadrian’s Wall. Also, the paths and back roads around Vindolanda were quiet and very pleasant.
We had visited Vindolanda Roman Fort on our previous trip in 2001, so we skipped it this time (www.vindolanda.com). However, this is a fascinating, picturesque site and there are usually active archeological digs going on during the summer months. There is also a great museum at the site which is well worth a visit. The site is managed by a private foundation, and admission is £4.95 for adults. Don’t miss Chesterholm Roman milestone just outside the fort (clearly marked on the above-mentioned map). It’s one of the original milestones along the Stangate, and it’s easy to miss without the map.
The Twice Brewed Visitor Center was about the halfway point of our hike, so we stopped here to enjoy the picnic lunch we had packed for ourselves. The visitor center sells snacks and drinks, and has outdoor picnic tables.
The walk along Hadrian’s Wall from Steel Rigg to Housesteads along the Whin Sill ridge is perhaps one of the most picturesque and dramatic sections of the entire wall (www.hadrians-wall.org). We passed three Milecastles (small forts along the wall at one-mile intervals built to accommodate about 20 soldiers) and Sycamore Gap—featured in the movie “Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves” starring Kevin Costner. Hadrian’s Wall follows the rolling, hilly landscape, so there are some steep climbs and descents along the way.
We finished at Housesteads Roman Fort, which unlike Vindolanda was built directly on Hadrian’s Wall. The fort sits high on a ridge with spectacular views in all directions. The site is managed by English Heritage, and the entrance fee for adults is £4.10. A large portion of the fort has been excavated, and wayside exhibits (and an optional audio guide) explain the buildings and fortifications.
Dinner tonight was at The Milecastle Inn again.
Jun 12th, 2007, 07:30 PM
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What a fabulous trip report, Rumseydog! I'm saving it for many tips about places I hope to visit. It sure is hard to get those university aged children to get up and out, isn't it? I'd say you did well.
Jun 12th, 2007, 07:49 PM
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what a wonderful report! - I've done the same walk along the Wall and am reliving lots of other places you visited.
Beggar Bog looks like a great place - my favorite B&B on the Wall has closed so I'll keep the link for my next visit.
One comment - almost every site you listed, the entrance fee is covered by the Great British Heritage Pass (Castle Howard, Fountains Abbey, all the Roman wall sites except Vindolanda, etc. etc) It would be a big money saver for anyone planning to visit Northern England
Beggar Bog looks like a great place - my favorite B&B on the Wall has closed so I'll keep the link for my next visit.
One comment - almost every site you listed, the entrance fee is covered by the Great British Heritage Pass (Castle Howard, Fountains Abbey, all the Roman wall sites except Vindolanda, etc. etc) It would be a big money saver for anyone planning to visit Northern England
Jun 12th, 2007, 08:12 PM
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A brief warning for future reference.
Yes, not all British restaurants include service in the bill. But even if they do, they will sometimes make out the credit card slip to imply they haven't. Or even have staff that straightforwardly lie when asked whether service had been included.
Sadly, you have a basic choice in Britain:
- just don't bother about service or tips (waitstaff do get wages!), or
- religiously remind yourself to check on the menu whetrher service is included, or
- just do what makes you happy.
Yes, not all British restaurants include service in the bill. But even if they do, they will sometimes make out the credit card slip to imply they haven't. Or even have staff that straightforwardly lie when asked whether service had been included.
Sadly, you have a basic choice in Britain:
- just don't bother about service or tips (waitstaff do get wages!), or
- religiously remind yourself to check on the menu whetrher service is included, or
- just do what makes you happy.
Jun 12th, 2007, 11:35 PM
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Great report and glad I could help you out. Leeds is a great place for a student. I work right in the centre and the shops are soooo tempting.
I smiled when I read you were eating fish and chips in Whitby washed down with Newcastle Brown - perfect!
I smiled when I read you were eating fish and chips in Whitby washed down with Newcastle Brown - perfect!
Jun 13th, 2007, 04:31 PM
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DAY 8 – Thursday, May 24 – Back to Leeds
Today we drove back to York (about 2-1/2 to 3 hours from Hadrian’s Wall), dropped off our rental car at the train station, and caught a train for the half-hour trip back to Leeds. In Leeds we spent the afternoon with our son, who had finished his exams and was delighted to have his parents treat him to another Italian meal at Bibis. We walked around the Leeds University campus once more and bought some Leeds University t-shirts for ourselves and as gifts at the university store. Because our son was staying on in Leeds to prepare for a two-month summer trip across Europe, and because we would be returning to London on an early Friday morning train, we bid him goodbye and headed back to The Queens Hotel for the night (£105 for a standard— but quite modern and roomy—double).
DAY 9 – Friday, May 25 – London
We caught the 9:05 a.m. GNER train to London, arriving at Kings Cross Station right on time at 11:27 a.m. Here we took a quick detour to Platform 9-3/4 to snap a picture for our daughter, who is a big Harry Potter fan. We then bought two off-peak day Travelcards for the Underground (£4 per adult), and took the Piccadilly line two stops to Holborn. We had booked three nights at the Renaissance Chancery Court London just around the corner from the Holborn tube station, and we were able to check in and claim our room just after noon. We had a secured a weekend rate of £125 per night for a “Deluxe Double Room,” which was very, very nice (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/trave...y-court-london).
After the peaceful and quiet rural countryside around Hadrian’s Wall, London was quite overwhelming. There was literally no room to walk on the sidewalks around Covent Garden on Friday afternoon. We took the tube over to St. Paul’s Cathedral, where we planned to join a London Walks tour of the cathedral. But when the tour guide showed up, at least 50 people gathered around her to join the walk. We decided this was too much, and went into the cathedral on our own. Then we saw the cost to enter: £9.50 per adult (US $19 each!!!) Since we had visited the site on our 2001 trip, we decided to save our money and walk around town some more. We headed down to the Thames, crossed the Millennium Bridge, and spent the rest of our afternoon at the Tate Modern Museum. My wife and I are not big on modern art, but the museum is quite pleasant, and we saw lots of strange and interesting “art.”
Dinner tonight was at Belgo Centraal at 50 Earlham Street in Covent Garden. The establishment was highly recommended here on Fodors, and we were not disappointed. Since we caught the “beat the clock” special which runs from 5-6:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, we each had a large pot of mussels, bread, chips (fries), and Belgian draft beers for about £16. By London standards, this is a real deal!
Today we drove back to York (about 2-1/2 to 3 hours from Hadrian’s Wall), dropped off our rental car at the train station, and caught a train for the half-hour trip back to Leeds. In Leeds we spent the afternoon with our son, who had finished his exams and was delighted to have his parents treat him to another Italian meal at Bibis. We walked around the Leeds University campus once more and bought some Leeds University t-shirts for ourselves and as gifts at the university store. Because our son was staying on in Leeds to prepare for a two-month summer trip across Europe, and because we would be returning to London on an early Friday morning train, we bid him goodbye and headed back to The Queens Hotel for the night (£105 for a standard— but quite modern and roomy—double).
DAY 9 – Friday, May 25 – London
We caught the 9:05 a.m. GNER train to London, arriving at Kings Cross Station right on time at 11:27 a.m. Here we took a quick detour to Platform 9-3/4 to snap a picture for our daughter, who is a big Harry Potter fan. We then bought two off-peak day Travelcards for the Underground (£4 per adult), and took the Piccadilly line two stops to Holborn. We had booked three nights at the Renaissance Chancery Court London just around the corner from the Holborn tube station, and we were able to check in and claim our room just after noon. We had a secured a weekend rate of £125 per night for a “Deluxe Double Room,” which was very, very nice (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/trave...y-court-london).
After the peaceful and quiet rural countryside around Hadrian’s Wall, London was quite overwhelming. There was literally no room to walk on the sidewalks around Covent Garden on Friday afternoon. We took the tube over to St. Paul’s Cathedral, where we planned to join a London Walks tour of the cathedral. But when the tour guide showed up, at least 50 people gathered around her to join the walk. We decided this was too much, and went into the cathedral on our own. Then we saw the cost to enter: £9.50 per adult (US $19 each!!!) Since we had visited the site on our 2001 trip, we decided to save our money and walk around town some more. We headed down to the Thames, crossed the Millennium Bridge, and spent the rest of our afternoon at the Tate Modern Museum. My wife and I are not big on modern art, but the museum is quite pleasant, and we saw lots of strange and interesting “art.”
Dinner tonight was at Belgo Centraal at 50 Earlham Street in Covent Garden. The establishment was highly recommended here on Fodors, and we were not disappointed. Since we caught the “beat the clock” special which runs from 5-6:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, we each had a large pot of mussels, bread, chips (fries), and Belgian draft beers for about £16. By London standards, this is a real deal!
Jun 13th, 2007, 04:56 PM
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DAY 10 – Saturday, May 26 – Hampton Court
Today we visited Hampton Court Palace, which is a 35-minute train ride from Waterloo Station. We purchased two “Standard Cheap Day Return” tickets at the bargain price of £3.60 apiece, and grabbed a “2-for-1” discount brochure at the ticket office window. The ticket agent instructed us to fill out the coupon in the brochure and hand it over at the ticket window at Hampton Court along with our train ticket stubs. This allowed the two of us to enter Hampton Court for the price of one adult, saving us £13 (which is the standard adult fare per person).
Hampton Court Palace is a large, sprawling place with several groups of rooms open to visitors. We walked through the Tudor Kitchens, Henry VIII’s State Apartments, the Queen’s State Apartments, the Georgian Rooms, the King’s Apartments, and the Chapel Royal. Lots of interesting historic furnishings and paintings, but nothing that quite equals the splendor of Louis XIV’s Versailles. There were various “living history” performances going on in the palace courtyards, featuring “King Henry VIII,” the “Archbishop of Canterbury,” the “Court Jester,” and others.
Overloaded with English Royal history, we made a beeline for The Tiltyard café in the Palace Gardens, where we had a very nice lunch. The café features soups, sandwiches, and other mostly light fare, along with beer or wine and a variety of sweets for dessert. After lunch we walked through the nearby Maze and explored the gardens – which are quite pretty.
Back in London we walked from Waterloo Station past the London Eye (which was absolutely mobbed despite the cool, overcast weather), over the Thames on Westminster Bridge past the Houses of Parliament, and on to Trafalgar Square. It was about now that steady rain began to fall, so we took the tube back to our hotel. We had a very nice dinner at the Spaghetti House (a London chain or restaurants) on Sicilian Avenue, halfway between the Holborn tube station and British Museum. I recall we spent about £48 for the two of us including one starter, two mains, and a carafe of house wine.
DAY 11 – Sunday, May 27 – Beatles Walk
Today we finally made time to do the “The Beatles Magical Mystery Tour” with Richard of London Walks (www.walks.com). Although it was a very wet and rainy day, some 36 people showed up at the Tottenham Court Road tube station at 11:00 a.m. for this very popular walk. Under a crowd of umbrellas, we walked across Soho and Mayfair—seeing where “Beatlemania” was born (the Palladium), where John Lennon met Yoko Ono (the Indica Gallery in Mayfair), etc.—to the Green Park tube station for a ride on the Underground to St. John’s Wood and Abbey Road Studios. London Walks cost £6 per adult, and Richard was a font of Beatles knowledge. A must for Beatles fans! The walk takes about 2-1/2 hours, including a final stop at the lively Beatles memorabilia shop at St. John’s Wood tube station.
We returned to the Tottenham Court Road tube station and had a late lunch at Wagamama on Streatham Street (www.wagamama.com). Very good relatively “inexpensive” Asian style food on long communal tables in a pretty crowded basement room. We had two mains, two sides, a beer and iced tea for about £32 (US $64).
Today we visited Hampton Court Palace, which is a 35-minute train ride from Waterloo Station. We purchased two “Standard Cheap Day Return” tickets at the bargain price of £3.60 apiece, and grabbed a “2-for-1” discount brochure at the ticket office window. The ticket agent instructed us to fill out the coupon in the brochure and hand it over at the ticket window at Hampton Court along with our train ticket stubs. This allowed the two of us to enter Hampton Court for the price of one adult, saving us £13 (which is the standard adult fare per person).
Hampton Court Palace is a large, sprawling place with several groups of rooms open to visitors. We walked through the Tudor Kitchens, Henry VIII’s State Apartments, the Queen’s State Apartments, the Georgian Rooms, the King’s Apartments, and the Chapel Royal. Lots of interesting historic furnishings and paintings, but nothing that quite equals the splendor of Louis XIV’s Versailles. There were various “living history” performances going on in the palace courtyards, featuring “King Henry VIII,” the “Archbishop of Canterbury,” the “Court Jester,” and others.
Overloaded with English Royal history, we made a beeline for The Tiltyard café in the Palace Gardens, where we had a very nice lunch. The café features soups, sandwiches, and other mostly light fare, along with beer or wine and a variety of sweets for dessert. After lunch we walked through the nearby Maze and explored the gardens – which are quite pretty.
Back in London we walked from Waterloo Station past the London Eye (which was absolutely mobbed despite the cool, overcast weather), over the Thames on Westminster Bridge past the Houses of Parliament, and on to Trafalgar Square. It was about now that steady rain began to fall, so we took the tube back to our hotel. We had a very nice dinner at the Spaghetti House (a London chain or restaurants) on Sicilian Avenue, halfway between the Holborn tube station and British Museum. I recall we spent about £48 for the two of us including one starter, two mains, and a carafe of house wine.
DAY 11 – Sunday, May 27 – Beatles Walk
Today we finally made time to do the “The Beatles Magical Mystery Tour” with Richard of London Walks (www.walks.com). Although it was a very wet and rainy day, some 36 people showed up at the Tottenham Court Road tube station at 11:00 a.m. for this very popular walk. Under a crowd of umbrellas, we walked across Soho and Mayfair—seeing where “Beatlemania” was born (the Palladium), where John Lennon met Yoko Ono (the Indica Gallery in Mayfair), etc.—to the Green Park tube station for a ride on the Underground to St. John’s Wood and Abbey Road Studios. London Walks cost £6 per adult, and Richard was a font of Beatles knowledge. A must for Beatles fans! The walk takes about 2-1/2 hours, including a final stop at the lively Beatles memorabilia shop at St. John’s Wood tube station.
We returned to the Tottenham Court Road tube station and had a late lunch at Wagamama on Streatham Street (www.wagamama.com). Very good relatively “inexpensive” Asian style food on long communal tables in a pretty crowded basement room. We had two mains, two sides, a beer and iced tea for about £32 (US $64).
Jun 13th, 2007, 06:49 PM
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(DAY 11 continued…)
After Wagamama we walked over to the British Museum to get out of the rain—along with just about everybody else in London! What a crowd! We pushed our way past the Rosetta Stone into the Parthenon wing, which was a little less crowded. Visited the museum store, then made our way back to our hotel. Still full from lunch, we decided to skip dinner and stayed put at the hotel for the rest of the evening.
DAY 12 – Monday, May 28 – Return to the USA
Up early for the 50-minute tube ride on the Piccadilly line from Holborn to London Heathrow Terminals 1, 2, and 3. Today was a “Bank Holiday” in England, and the Underground was operating on a Saturday schedule. We left the hotel about 6:30 a.m. and arrived at United check-in by about 8:15 a.m. for our 10:50 a.m. flight back to Washington-Dulles. There was a short wait for electronic check-in, another short wait at security, and we were comfortably into the departure area for Heathrow Terminal 3 by about 8:45 a.m.—two hours ahead of our flight.
One hiccup we weren’t aware of—or prepared for—is the requirement by Heathrow airport security to consolidate all carry-on luggage into a SINGLE BAG per person (even though most airlines, including United, allow more than one carry-on bag). This requirement, it turns out, is only for the scanning of your luggage. Once you’re through security, you can again separate your carry-ons. So my wife and I squeezed our four bags into two (I’m still not sure how) and managed to pass through security without incident.
Our flight left London on time and we arrived back in Washington, DC on time. Can’t ask for much more than that!
A WORD ABOUT COSTS IN ENGLAND
On the subject of prices, “inexpensive” is—as you’ve undoubtedly already concluded—a relative term when it comes to travel in England. The “beat the clock” special at Belgo Centraal in Covent Garden in London (£16 or US $32 for two including pints of Belgian draft beer) was our most “inexpensive” dinner on the trip. Lunch for two at Wagamama—a popular “inexpensive” chain of Asian restaurants—including a beer, iced tea, and two “sides” was just over £32 ($64 US). Not really “inexpensive” by typical U.S. standards. Pubs are a great place to find “inexpensive”—and often quite good—food. At the Milecastle Inn near Haltwhistle at Hadrian’s Wall (about as remote a part of northern England as you’ll find), we had a modest but delicious meal of lamb and chicken, including two pints of British lager and pie, for about £30 ($60 US). You get the idea. Our most expensive meal was at Delrio’s Italian restaurant in York (£89 or US $160 for 3 of us including starters, dinner specials, dessert, and a bottle of house white wine).
The same goes for lodging. Our least expensive lodging was at the Grantley House in Whitby—which was quite lovely—£54 for two for a standard double including breakfast ($108 US). At the Beggar’s Bog Farmhouse B&B at Hadrian’s Wall, we spent £60 a night for two nights (total $240 US). Again, not really an “inexpensive” place to stay by U.S. standards. We snagged a “great rate” at the Renaissance Chancery Court London (a hotel that is consistently rated highly on TripAdvisor and typically costs over £240 a night) for £125 a night. That still comes out to $250 US a night (our three-night total including VAT was about $875 US)!
We looked into purchasing Great British Heritage Passes for admission to sites in Yorkshire and Northumberland (www.britishheritagepass.com), but found it probably wouldn’t save us any money with our son along for 3 days. Plus, we weren't sure what sites we would actually even visit. As it turned out, we were right. A 4-day pass costs £28 per adult, and a 7-day pass costs £39 per adult. So two adult passes for my wife and I for 5 or 6 days would have totaled £78, and one adult pass for the 3 days our son was with us would have been £28. But it’s the availability of family tickets at most of these sites that made the difference: paying full adult fares—and family fares when our son was with us—cost us, altogether, £79.20 for all the sites we visited that are also covered by the Great British Heritage Pass (Castle Howard, Scarborough Castle, Fountains Abbey, Whitby Abbey, Corbridge Roman Site, and Housesteads Roman Fort).
I hope some of our travels and site descriptions help inspire your own travel plans. I’ve always found these Fodor’s forums to be immensely helpful and inspirational.
After Wagamama we walked over to the British Museum to get out of the rain—along with just about everybody else in London! What a crowd! We pushed our way past the Rosetta Stone into the Parthenon wing, which was a little less crowded. Visited the museum store, then made our way back to our hotel. Still full from lunch, we decided to skip dinner and stayed put at the hotel for the rest of the evening.
DAY 12 – Monday, May 28 – Return to the USA
Up early for the 50-minute tube ride on the Piccadilly line from Holborn to London Heathrow Terminals 1, 2, and 3. Today was a “Bank Holiday” in England, and the Underground was operating on a Saturday schedule. We left the hotel about 6:30 a.m. and arrived at United check-in by about 8:15 a.m. for our 10:50 a.m. flight back to Washington-Dulles. There was a short wait for electronic check-in, another short wait at security, and we were comfortably into the departure area for Heathrow Terminal 3 by about 8:45 a.m.—two hours ahead of our flight.
One hiccup we weren’t aware of—or prepared for—is the requirement by Heathrow airport security to consolidate all carry-on luggage into a SINGLE BAG per person (even though most airlines, including United, allow more than one carry-on bag). This requirement, it turns out, is only for the scanning of your luggage. Once you’re through security, you can again separate your carry-ons. So my wife and I squeezed our four bags into two (I’m still not sure how) and managed to pass through security without incident.
Our flight left London on time and we arrived back in Washington, DC on time. Can’t ask for much more than that!
A WORD ABOUT COSTS IN ENGLAND
On the subject of prices, “inexpensive” is—as you’ve undoubtedly already concluded—a relative term when it comes to travel in England. The “beat the clock” special at Belgo Centraal in Covent Garden in London (£16 or US $32 for two including pints of Belgian draft beer) was our most “inexpensive” dinner on the trip. Lunch for two at Wagamama—a popular “inexpensive” chain of Asian restaurants—including a beer, iced tea, and two “sides” was just over £32 ($64 US). Not really “inexpensive” by typical U.S. standards. Pubs are a great place to find “inexpensive”—and often quite good—food. At the Milecastle Inn near Haltwhistle at Hadrian’s Wall (about as remote a part of northern England as you’ll find), we had a modest but delicious meal of lamb and chicken, including two pints of British lager and pie, for about £30 ($60 US). You get the idea. Our most expensive meal was at Delrio’s Italian restaurant in York (£89 or US $160 for 3 of us including starters, dinner specials, dessert, and a bottle of house white wine).
The same goes for lodging. Our least expensive lodging was at the Grantley House in Whitby—which was quite lovely—£54 for two for a standard double including breakfast ($108 US). At the Beggar’s Bog Farmhouse B&B at Hadrian’s Wall, we spent £60 a night for two nights (total $240 US). Again, not really an “inexpensive” place to stay by U.S. standards. We snagged a “great rate” at the Renaissance Chancery Court London (a hotel that is consistently rated highly on TripAdvisor and typically costs over £240 a night) for £125 a night. That still comes out to $250 US a night (our three-night total including VAT was about $875 US)!
We looked into purchasing Great British Heritage Passes for admission to sites in Yorkshire and Northumberland (www.britishheritagepass.com), but found it probably wouldn’t save us any money with our son along for 3 days. Plus, we weren't sure what sites we would actually even visit. As it turned out, we were right. A 4-day pass costs £28 per adult, and a 7-day pass costs £39 per adult. So two adult passes for my wife and I for 5 or 6 days would have totaled £78, and one adult pass for the 3 days our son was with us would have been £28. But it’s the availability of family tickets at most of these sites that made the difference: paying full adult fares—and family fares when our son was with us—cost us, altogether, £79.20 for all the sites we visited that are also covered by the Great British Heritage Pass (Castle Howard, Scarborough Castle, Fountains Abbey, Whitby Abbey, Corbridge Roman Site, and Housesteads Roman Fort).
I hope some of our travels and site descriptions help inspire your own travel plans. I’ve always found these Fodor’s forums to be immensely helpful and inspirational.
Jun 13th, 2007, 08:18 PM
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Thanks again for this well-organized and helpful trip report.
I agree about the expense; sometimes it's just better to not double those prices in pounts!
We had a wonderful meal at Belgo. We missed the Beat the Clock and ordered a large meal with starters, mains, a few Belgian ales, and dessert, and the cost was £55 for 2!
I agree about the expense; sometimes it's just better to not double those prices in pounts!
We had a wonderful meal at Belgo. We missed the Beat the Clock and ordered a large meal with starters, mains, a few Belgian ales, and dessert, and the cost was £55 for 2!
