Better late than never. I posted our reviews of the various hotels and sights and posted our Dubai experience on that forum but never got around to writing up our Italy trip. Many Fodorites had provided information so a thankyou to you all. Here is a start to the report on our 5 weeks in Italy.
The long flight Melbourne to Milan 26 hours was with Emirates. Great flight Melbourne to Dubai, good food and attentive staff. Cattle class flight Dubai to Milan. It was wonderful flying over the east coast of Italy and a few minutes later being able to see the west coast! It was like watching an arial geography lesson unfold. The light began to fade and soon we were watching the suburban lights come on as we flew into Milan's Malpensa airport. It was only about 9pm, but everything in the airport appeared to be closed and we could not find anyone to help us work out where were to catch the shuttle bus from.
We had booked the very new Malpensa Holiday Inn Express, Via Francesco de Pinedo, for our 1st night in Milan. Walked around seemingly aimlessly until we stumbled on the bus stop in the car park and noted that the stop to Lago Maggiorie was just a couple of stops away! We did not have to wait long for the last shuttle to arrive and soon we were on our way to the Holiday Inn. Thank goodness we had found the shuttle stop. We certainly would not have found the Holiday Inn. There were no signs on the poorly lit roads and certainly no footpaths leading to the hotel. Since I have already reviewed the hotel elsewhere, I'll just say that we were very pleased with the hotel, staff and breakfast.
The next morning we decided to explore Malpensa while waiting for the shuttle to take us back to the airport where we would catch the bus to Stresa on Largo di Maggiore. At first we thought we were caught up in some sort of time warp. Everywhere we looked, the houses, school, medical clinic all seemed to be abandoned. As though everyone had just downed tools and walked away! Childrens' toys were left in the front yards, renovations unfinished, school and medical clinic notices related to a year ago and gardens were overgrown. The only folk around seemed to be very old. We did find the local church and saw that it was building a pilgrim hostel nearby. The cemetery was very well cared for - enormous bronze and stone statues and lots of plastic flowers! DH was in 7th Heaven to be back in Italy. He even tried his Italian out on the hotel staff who told us that the government had bought up all the land when it developed Malpensa airport and so people had just walked away to perhaps a better life. It was all a bit sad but perhaps the pilgrim hostel will bring some life back to the town.
Squeezed into the shuttle bus to return to the airport and our Stresa bus stop (discovered last night). Travelled to Stresa with an American couple who thought that their six hour flight was long enough and could not fathom our 26 hour journey from Melbourne. We were dropped near the waterfront and DH went looking for the Information office so that we could locate our hotel (Hotel Elena). Left with the task of keeping an eye on the baggage I enjoyed myself watching the little train tootle out of the car park and make its way down the road to the zoo, people enjoying the sunshine and catching up with friends. Everyone seemed to be in holiday mode. Our hotel was in the main Stresa Piazza. After meeting Signora Laura we travelled up to our first floor room in a microscopic lift. We have also reviewed Hotel Elena. The room was adequate and the staff friendly. Breakfast was great and DH was taken with the coffee they made. Our room looked out over the Stresa hills with a catty corner view of the lake. We had a good view of the local houses and enjoyed sitting out on our balcony with wine, pizza etc and watching and listening to the local people going about their business away from the main tourist traffic.
Stresa was definately unstressful and we enjoyed our early morning walks around the neighbourhood watching the town slowly stretch itself waiting for the tourist traffic to arrive. Laneways were cleaned, children walked to school/kinder with their parents or grandparents, well suited young students sat at the Hotel Elena cafe having breakfast with their parents before going on to school, the church bells rang to call people to Mass and people called out to their friends. We joined a large group of people to go to the Borromean Islands. Managed to just squeeze in ahead of a large French group to visit palace on Isola Bella. As the guide was busy with the chattering French group, we managed to sneek a photograph of Napoleon's bed. We were awe struck by the number of paintings by Tiepolo, van Dyke (one of my favourite painters) as well as beautiful tapestries and sculptures. We finally tore ourselves away and went out into the gardens -a tiered masterpiece with beautiful flowers, water features and white peacocks wandering around unpreturbed by all the noisy people. DH was already flagging - obviously jet lagged so I soldiered on up the 3 story confection of shell, mirror and marble for the wonderful views of Stresa ,Baveno and the lake. A gelati stop was definately in order before we boarded the ferry again for Isola Pescatori A small island which you can circumnavigate easily. Then we walk edthrough the narrow and twisting laneways to see the interesting houses and shops and the church with the gilded busts of the four bishops including one of the Borromeo family (we found him later in Milan). The church frescoes are painstakingly being restored.

Thanks for posting..."late" works just as well for us travel addicts!

Thanks!

"Thanks for posting..."late" works just as well for us travel addicts!"

Amen to that!

The laneways of Pescatori are narrow but very interesting with mask and sooap shops and restaurants (many with outdoor settings). Another ferry ride to Isola Madre - the largest island and probably the quietest. We ate our lunch under the arbour while waiting for the gates to open. The gardens are lovely and as it was September and after lunch, most of the crowds had left. The views across to the other islands and Verbania were so lovely. There was a boathouse with a Venetian gondola hung high up on chains and we tried to imagine how it had got there and what it was used for. Here too, peacocks and georgeous pheasants stroll around unconcerned. The huge Cashmir cypress had taken a beating from a freak storm and was a very sad remanant of its former self (shown in photographs of the recovery process). It will be quite a few years before they tell whether they have been able to save the magnificent tree - so fingers crossed. The avenue of camelias when flowering must look magnificent. The Villa has lots of interesting paintings (unfortunately not well looked after) but it is the Piazzale della Cappella with its palms, lily pond and chapel that are the star. I am sure the chapel must be very popular for weddings. Among the water lilies were delightful tiny frogs sunning themselves on the leaves!
Back to Stresa by ferry once again taking in the beautiful scenery near Baveno and thinking it was fortuitous we were not staying there as we would have felt compelled to climb the many stairs to the church on the hill! Located the Cable car to Monte Mattarone so that is next on the itinerary.
Returned to find that the foreshore had been turned into a craft and food market. Wonderful wines to taste and buy. We were delighted to speak with one of the vitners who was able to compare his wine with our Australian style of wines and give us a better understanding of the Italian wines. Needless to say we purchased a couple of bottles for our evening meal. We just wandered around inspecting the many beautiful crafts and wishing we had the space in our bags for them. The Passagiata in and around the stalls and along the foreshore was our first taste of this wonderful Latin pasttime - everyone seemed to be having such a good time.
Dinner was purchased from the local GS supermarceto and we enjoyed our meal on our balcony listening to the locals go about their tasks and being serenaded by music from the nearby restaurant. Mosquitos though were a problem and a lot of Aerogard got used.

I'm glad I found this thread.
I'm fixing our itinerary for next year as we are flying into Milan MXP in June.

Last month in our train from Milan to Lake Como we passed Stresa and saw Lago Maggiore and I even was able to take pics of the beautiful islands, fast we looked into our map and found where we were and I told my Son we are coming back here!

Hi pookymimi
Happy to provide more indepth information on Lago Maggiore when you are ready.

We spent a very pleasant evening wandering around the town and the craft market and bought a gelati from the corner shop. We found the GS supermarket/grocery store on Via Roma 11 8.30 – 1 and 3.-7.30. ½ day Sun morning. We spent a bit of time there looking at the different vegetables and products and the way it was set out – so different to our own supermarkets. It took a little getting used to the system. They charge for carry bags so take your own. Prices are much the same as back in Australia, though some products do not seem to be available.

Set off on my own to explore the town. Found some millefiore pendants 5c size E8, 10c E11, and between 10-20c size E15. Also an 8”Glass Christmas Tree and ornaments E11.50. They were only slightly cheaper in Venice. Discovered the handicraft market 21August -21 September along the foreshore. Stretches for ages. Lots of jewellery. They really do have an eye for design. Back to the hotel to get DH and returned to the market. We tasted some Barbera at the market and purchased a bottle E3.50. Tried another Barbera which was very different in taste and more expensive at E9/bottle. The wine maker was very disappointed that we did not buy one. We thought that $A18+ to drink with pizza was probably over the top.

We settled on Margherita pizza for dinner with our bottle of Barbera, followed by Gruyere cheese and biscuits and chocolate tarts. We went out after our “dinner” to enjoy the ambiance of the Piazzas. Many shops are still open – long days for the shop owners. The market was closing down. We took some night photographs of the Regina Palace Hotel. We walked up to the train station to find the ticket office closed. The waiting room contained period furniture with huge marble topped table and fireplace. DH doubted that I could find my way to the hotel – what a challenge to his navigator! – Brought him back a different way right back to our Piazza without consulting any maps or asking for directions - Easy peasy!


This report is becoming a bit of a mess. Sorry I forgot to add in the information for the 3 Islands tour at the right point above. But anyway here it is.

There 2 ferries an hour from Stresa Piazza Marconi. Buy an E8 day pass to visit all three. You will also save E1 if you buy your admission tickets for the island attractions from the Stresa ferry office. Avoid the touts dressed as sailors.

Isola Bella - Self guided audio tours are available – rental for 1.5 hours with headphones for one E3.50 or two people E5. Guided tours lasting approx 45 mins for E35/person. Picnics not allowed. No photographs or video in the palazzo. Photography is allowed in the garden.

Isola Pescatore - At Via Liberty No 28 is a small shop that sells handpainted fancy soaps, hand and pocket mirrors and other crafts. The artist who runs the shop will handpaint personalised notes names, clever sayings, birthday or anniversary messages on things you choose. The prices are inexpensive and she will paint your items while you wander around the island. The family also own the leather and mask shop a couple of feet down on the other side of the lane on the opposite side, so you might be able to combine several items for a good price. Isola Pescatore is essentially an old village and life goes on as it has for years. It is a good spot for a picnic.

On the return journey from Isola Madre, the boat trip stops at Pecatori, Beveno and Isola Bella which gives an opportunity for photos you may have missed on the trip up, before docking at Stresa.

Fish the lake are trout, carp and pike. The right to fish in the lake is handed down through specific families, so don't just through your line in for a bite!


To continue again:
On to the train station via Piazza Congressi and found a helpful station attendant who confirmed we needed the 8.35 am train – 1.5 hours to Milan Centrale. He could not confirm our tickets to Como as the computer was down, but gave us a pass to give the conductor to avoid the surcharge for not having a booked ticket. The fare Stresa to Milan was E4.95 and is purchased from the machine and validated in the yellow box next to it. There is a bus stop opposite the Stresa Church which takes passengers to the station leaving at 8.10. Back to the Piazza Canova. Bought take away Ravioli and Lasagna E5/each from a small bar and had a long chat with the staff. I saw them selling glasses of bright green drinks to the locals and so inquired what it was. They immediately offered me a free glass of Aqua Menthe – Mint Cordial to try. An acquired taste. Bought a bottle of Friuli Grave Refosco (grape type) Dal Pendrencolo Rosso 2008 from San Simone di Bistototto Porcia Winery. Ronch di Villa. E3.50. A very ruby wine – different to anything we have drunk before. We supplemented our pasta with salad and some sesame breadsticks. Out for another wander, this time past Albergo Luina (another poster's suggestion) which looks better than where we are but does not have the same views. A walk along the foreshore looking at the lights on Isola Madre.

Visited a very interesting wine shop behind the church. We wandered in and noticed people eating so we promptly asked to purchase what they were eating, only to be told it was for the family only! But you can purchase wine by the glass incl Limoncello. Sells chocolates, Paneforte olive oil, spirits etc. Very interesting but all the wines were very expensive. Enoteca Chambussa is next to the Metropole Hotel. Sells sandwiches starting at E3.

Woke at 4am (obviously our body clocks have not yet adjusted) and looked at our photos on the PC. Huge mosquitos felled by DH. His mobile telephone logs on to all sorts of networks which send him welcome messages. Shower is hot but very small and I keep knocking it off with my elbow. Trains run every 10 mins and some longer and noisier than others. Otherwise the area is very quiet at night. Down for breakfast. Different croissants this time. Had three cups of chocolate - this will do nothing for my weight!

Walked around the town through the residential side. Lots of buildings seem abandoned. The streets however, are fairly clean and we have noticed that the shop keepers keep the laneways in front of their shops very clean and tidy. Lots of small dogs around, mostly carried. Not a vet to be seen. Peter took photos of a house with turret we could see from our balcony. It had frescoes all over it.

Back to the hotel to grab out things for our Lago Maggiore Express/Centro Valli trip www.nagigazionelaghi.it E60. Got to the ferry and saw loads of foreigners – Germans and thought the tour groupwas waiting for the 3 Islands ferry – Oh No they are getting on the Maggiore Express! Wormed our way in and up to the top rear of the ferry. The Germans and some Italians ordered the E15 lunch and so most of them stayed downstairs and indoors. The weather changed from hot to cool and back again and there was often a cool breeze, but we did not really get cold. Hats would have been an advantage. The boat passes the other side of Isola Bella and Pescatori and gives a different view. Stops in Pallanza – some lovely villas and formal gardens. But could not distinguish which was Villa Taranto. Intra is very much more commercial and there are large blocks of flats/offices. A definitely more modern town. The car ferry goes across to Laveno. The ferry crosses back and forth across the lake and it was slow 3 hours to Lacarno. Combio looks interesting but is so far up the lake that it is probably best reached by car or public transport. Both though are also likely to be slow. Isole Bissago in the middle of the lake could also be interesting. Lacarno is a large but modern town. Arrived there at 2.30pm. We could not see anything worth keeping us there. There was a funicular going up the mountain with views of the lake. Paid $A10 for a 2 scoop icecream cone! There is very little time between disembarking and the 1st Centro Valli train. The 2.55 train leaves precisely in keeping with Swiss time keeping. The train station is a short up hill walk and the trains leave from the underground part. We came back after wandering around the town a bit, hoping to beat the tour group 3.42pm. We did, but sat on the wrong side of the train. The train passes through about 32 tunnels. The scenery though pleasant flashes by before it really registers. Any photography is virtually impossible, due to the thick coverage of beech, horse chestnut and ash trees as well as the rocking of the train. There are deep ravines and rocky rivers. Sometimes one can see lonely stone houses. Can’t see what would keep any one living there – virtual isolation.

The first train had stopped at St Maria Maggiore (830m) for a while. This town has lots of frescoes. Our train only stopped for a few minutes so we did not see any of the frescoes
Domodossala is an industrial town but also has an ancient walled part. We did not see anything worthwhile near the station. One had to walk down the long main street to get to the old walled part. Visited the Co-op supermarket outside the station to see if we could get anything to eat. Purchased a large bag of peanuts in shells and Ritters hazelnut chocolate E5.35. The tourist office is supposed to be near the station – but we could not find it. A map would have been helpful.

On the train back to Stresa, we noted that all the stations had a very desolate abandoned look. Vignora had a interesting looking stone castle, we made a note to visit that on a future trip.

Back to the GS Supermarket for groceries and soap. The Laundromat costs E4 for 8kg load and 1E for every 10 mins drying $8A for a few clothes is out of the question. We tried to improvise by stuffing some plastic around the sink so that the water stayed in the sink to wash by hand. Worked somewhat. Bought pizza again and ate with salad and the wine we bought at the farmers market.

13/9
Trains obviously running on a weekend timetable – not so many of them rumbling past
Chocolate is Signora Laura’s own recipie –cant be bought in the supermarket. I shall definately miss her chocolate for breakfast.
Off to Monterrone. Walked there but by the wrong road. There is no sign but the Via Gui Borremeo opposite the Hotel Birstol leads on to the Lungo Largo which is a flat, paved and very pleasant walk along the lake to the Funiva. We had to miss a couple of cars (runs every 20 mins) as cyclists take their cycles up and bike down. Took the chair up to the very top from where one can see Lake Orta. In winter there are several short ski runs. The cable cars are standing room only and the windows need cleaning. The first stop is the Botanical Garden. A second cable car goes to the Mottoronne. From there there is a small chair lift to the top. One can walk all the way back to Stresa – about 3 -4 hours. Or from the top to the 1st station. We also visited the Chiesa di Madonna di Neve which was funded by the Borromeo family. Went down to the Alpino Girdino. As the cable car stops for 1 hour for lunch, we stayed in the Gardens which are very nicely laid out and labeled. DH practiced his Italian on the custodian. There is a lookout with a view of the 3 islands. Unfortunately the trees had grown and obstructed the view somewhat. They are pruned in autumn. On the way back to the cable car, we could smell cattle and had heard cow bells while we were in the gardens. Suddenly we came across a calf in the middle of the path, looking under the trees, we saw a very large cow. Thank fully she seemed to be content to chew the cud - otherwise we would have had to do a very quick dash back to the gardens! Later in the day, we took ourselves off to visit the Abbey of Santa Caterina del Sasso Ballaro (near Laveno). A 15 min boat ride. Built by a local merchant in the 12C to fulfill a vow made when he was saved from a storm. If we wanted to see the Church, we had to stay for Mass. There is a late boat to cater for those what to attend Mass. The buildings were not looked after and very vandalized. It changed many times from Augustine to Carmelites and Dominicans. In 1970 the restoration of E7.3 million discovered several frescoes. There is a wine and olive press outside from 1670. There is a small gift shop near the exit of the complex.

The Church is an amalgamation of several buildings over time and has several different levels. The restoration is continuing. There was a rickety and steep set of stair leading to the top of the cliff. After the first set of stairs we decided that it was not worth the effort and so took the last boat back to Stresa. Only about 6 passengers. There were a whole lot of people still there – no idea how they were getting back.

14/9
Lightening over the hills and dark clouds rolling in.
Last hot chocolate. Walked to the station – all uphill and got there before the rain. As the train rolled in – on time, the rain started in earnest. Second class was easy to find but a 3 step climb up from the platform. Found some seats and settled in for the ½ hour ride to Milan. The view from the windows was of a grey lake and we could just see St Caterina across it. The wind is making patterns on the surface of the lake. The train flew along and we passed some lovely old and frescoed buildings and old churches.

1st stop was Arona with the 35ft 17C statue of San Carlo Borromeo. The statue can be climed by a stairway to the top for views over the lake. Next is Sesto which has a museum in Piazza Mazzini, Calendre and then Callarate. People obviously travel long distanes to get to work in Milan. 3 tunnels on the journey. Still grey but no rain. Next is Busto Arsizio 35 mins from Stresa. Just when I was commenting on the punctuality of the train it becomes retardo due to another train on the line. We lose about 15 mins. The train is filling up and will have to move our stuff off the chair next to me by the next station – Parabiagio. The stations have “Self Bars”on the platform – i.e. drink and lolly dispensers.

Finally we get to Milan to find the 11.10 to Como was booked out. Our next train is at 1.43pm. Milan Centrale is huge. All granite and glass but not clean. The toilets however are very clean - E1.

A couple of well dressed beggars around. A most crappy souvenier shop selling glass Christmas trees for E25! The trams/buses are right outside the station. Supermercado at the bottom of steps opposite Platform 6. 13.10 to Zurich on time. Fight down the narrow passageway to our seats. Both have window seats. Fold out table between 4 seats.