Trip report Dordogne
Jun 2nd, 2007, 01:26 PM
#41
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Thanks for the positive comments, but I really think the minimum to expect is that someone will have cleaned the place properly. I see that their rates go up considerably for the summer, when presumably their pool will be operational and the building site cleaned up. Hope they remember to clean the shower and the garden furniture as well.
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:01 PM
#42
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Yikes! We will also be renting in the Dordogne...and we had better not have spiders, flies, wasps, bats, and musty linens!! I am shocked that they would feel it was appropriate to have people at their property with those "amenities".
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:01 PM
#43
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Day 5....Sunny and very warm
It was a glorious day for Sunday market in St. Cyprien. We did not make it to the Saturday Market in Sarlat but so far this is the grand daddy of all markets I've been to....Wow!! There was anything and everything you could ask for at a Saturday Market. Food stalls abound...clothing, purses, jewlery, crafts, flowers...it was a feast for the eyes.
Our mission was to find the famous St Cyprien chicken and Sarladaise potatoes which we found at the far end...there turned out to be two vendors so I'm not sure we found the right one...but they were good in any case. I loved this market and could have spent many more hours there.
Our next stop was the pretty town of Limeuil. This would be ideal spot for a picnic along the river and well worth a short visit.
Mistake number two....I somehow overlooked the fact that The Vieux Logis in Tremolat does not offer a regular menu on weekends. The only choice is the 65E full gourmand chefs creation...or you can take that same menu and eliminate one of the two main courses that are included for 49E.
I usually can't go beyond 3 courses without feeling uncomfortably full. This meal was to be going to be six courses.
We had a glass of Vin du Noix to start. We were served some small pasteries including a small funnel filled with Avocado cream. Our second course was a raw oyster on the half shell served with an oyster sorbet (really!!). Our next consisted of Asparagus 5 different ways. 1.Asparagus wrapped with smoked magret 2. Liquid Asparagus with fennel...looked like a little shooter. 3. Asparagus brushetta 4. Asparagus and shaved cucumber 5. Asparagus and egg served in an egg shell. Another small dish was served with a truffle foam...there was nothing there but the essence of the taste...wonderful!!
The main course consisted of rabbit in a demi glaze sauce with a small serving of vegetables on the side.
The Cheese course I unfortunately picked two cheeses that I didn't care for...very gamey taste. My husband fared much better with his choices and I tried a wee bit of his.
The desert was a medley of 3...A Citrus foam to start...again it melted in your mouth with only the taste lingering. Following this strawberries with a meringue tower...strawberry sorbet shaped and colored to look like strawberry and last a chocolat carmel stick...like a lollipop.
With our dinner we had a half bottle of the Gavoty Rose which was the best tasting rose of our trip. I couldn't find it elsewhere. The total bill came to 138E. Total time 2.5 hours.
Even though we paid a fair bit more than the midweek tapas menu, we were very happy with our meal and service. We enjoyed a walk in the gardens after lunch. The Vieux Logis has lovely grounds.
We stopped in La Roque Gageac on the way back to our gite and had a nice stroll around town. The restaurant at the foot of town near the river is a lovely spot to have a pre dinner drink...great views of the river and the town.
Back at the gite, we lit another fire and later enjoyed our St Cyprien chicken and potatoes.
Another perfect day in the Dordogne!!
It was a glorious day for Sunday market in St. Cyprien. We did not make it to the Saturday Market in Sarlat but so far this is the grand daddy of all markets I've been to....Wow!! There was anything and everything you could ask for at a Saturday Market. Food stalls abound...clothing, purses, jewlery, crafts, flowers...it was a feast for the eyes.
Our mission was to find the famous St Cyprien chicken and Sarladaise potatoes which we found at the far end...there turned out to be two vendors so I'm not sure we found the right one...but they were good in any case. I loved this market and could have spent many more hours there.
Our next stop was the pretty town of Limeuil. This would be ideal spot for a picnic along the river and well worth a short visit.
Mistake number two....I somehow overlooked the fact that The Vieux Logis in Tremolat does not offer a regular menu on weekends. The only choice is the 65E full gourmand chefs creation...or you can take that same menu and eliminate one of the two main courses that are included for 49E.
I usually can't go beyond 3 courses without feeling uncomfortably full. This meal was to be going to be six courses.
We had a glass of Vin du Noix to start. We were served some small pasteries including a small funnel filled with Avocado cream. Our second course was a raw oyster on the half shell served with an oyster sorbet (really!!). Our next consisted of Asparagus 5 different ways. 1.Asparagus wrapped with smoked magret 2. Liquid Asparagus with fennel...looked like a little shooter. 3. Asparagus brushetta 4. Asparagus and shaved cucumber 5. Asparagus and egg served in an egg shell. Another small dish was served with a truffle foam...there was nothing there but the essence of the taste...wonderful!!
The main course consisted of rabbit in a demi glaze sauce with a small serving of vegetables on the side.
The Cheese course I unfortunately picked two cheeses that I didn't care for...very gamey taste. My husband fared much better with his choices and I tried a wee bit of his.
The desert was a medley of 3...A Citrus foam to start...again it melted in your mouth with only the taste lingering. Following this strawberries with a meringue tower...strawberry sorbet shaped and colored to look like strawberry and last a chocolat carmel stick...like a lollipop.
With our dinner we had a half bottle of the Gavoty Rose which was the best tasting rose of our trip. I couldn't find it elsewhere. The total bill came to 138E. Total time 2.5 hours.
Even though we paid a fair bit more than the midweek tapas menu, we were very happy with our meal and service. We enjoyed a walk in the gardens after lunch. The Vieux Logis has lovely grounds.
We stopped in La Roque Gageac on the way back to our gite and had a nice stroll around town. The restaurant at the foot of town near the river is a lovely spot to have a pre dinner drink...great views of the river and the town.
Back at the gite, we lit another fire and later enjoyed our St Cyprien chicken and potatoes.
Another perfect day in the Dordogne!!
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:12 PM
#44
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Enjoying the report immensely!
wren: While I'm certainly an advocate of keeping a clean house, the Dordogne IS the countryside and there are spiders, wasps, flies, and bats (and plenty of other insects and animals) all over the place! It would be impossible to eliminate them. That said, they don't need to be inside the house. And linens certainly don't need to be musty.
wren: While I'm certainly an advocate of keeping a clean house, the Dordogne IS the countryside and there are spiders, wasps, flies, and bats (and plenty of other insects and animals) all over the place! It would be impossible to eliminate them. That said, they don't need to be inside the house. And linens certainly don't need to be musty.
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:32 PM
#45
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I'm not excusing the imperfections but you can tell that the owners have put a lot of sweat equity into the property. I do take my hat off to them for that. I think they are relatively new at this venture and need to take a little more care with the fine details which are important to making a vacation special.
Cleanliness is a major thing for me...I'm sure the place was a lot cleaner when I left it than when I got there. Based on the kind remarks from the guest book, I think that most people were quite forgiving. I am inclined to chaulk it up to experience and know for next time that renting independantly can be a bit of a gamble. Recommendations in advance (like in Carlux's case) are what you should seek out.
Cleanliness is a major thing for me...I'm sure the place was a lot cleaner when I left it than when I got there. Based on the kind remarks from the guest book, I think that most people were quite forgiving. I am inclined to chaulk it up to experience and know for next time that renting independantly can be a bit of a gamble. Recommendations in advance (like in Carlux's case) are what you should seek out.
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:46 PM
#46
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When we visit our friends in the Vendee countryside, there are always creatures everywhere...but they are mostly outside, until we leave the lights on at night and attract them to join us inside. That said--bats and wasps are a little disturbing---but like you said it comes with the territory in the country.
Great report so far...eager to read on!
Great report so far...eager to read on!
Jun 2nd, 2007, 03:50 PM
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Great trip report so far, C4T! I had a feeling you were going to enjoy this trip...so much to do, so much to see, so much to enjoy!
You know...for whatever reason, Domme didn't quite click with us, either. If you venture just a few minutes south of Cenac, you'd see our home for 1 week, the charming village of Daglan (did you happen to pass through?).
It was just 4 days less than a year ago that we left on that trip, and you're making us feel like we're re-living it.
I'm looking forward to reading more, and seeing your photos as well.
~ Mr. Go (posting on my LW's computer and login)
You know...for whatever reason, Domme didn't quite click with us, either. If you venture just a few minutes south of Cenac, you'd see our home for 1 week, the charming village of Daglan (did you happen to pass through?).
It was just 4 days less than a year ago that we left on that trip, and you're making us feel like we're re-living it.
I'm looking forward to reading more, and seeing your photos as well.
~ Mr. Go (posting on my LW's computer and login)
Jun 2nd, 2007, 05:36 PM
#49
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Thank you wren and hopingtotravel.
msgo....we did make it to Daglan as it happens. I wanted to see where you had stayed as it sounded charming from your trip report. It was a very charming town and seemed to have everything you would need for a comfortable stay...I picked up a few things at the nice grocery store there. Very cute town and I have some lovely photos of our visit.
msgo....we did make it to Daglan as it happens. I wanted to see where you had stayed as it sounded charming from your trip report. It was a very charming town and seemed to have everything you would need for a comfortable stay...I picked up a few things at the nice grocery store there. Very cute town and I have some lovely photos of our visit.
Jun 2nd, 2007, 07:01 PM
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Jun 2nd, 2007, 07:30 PM
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Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:25 AM
#53
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Just a footnote for Tremolat. There is an artist in town that crafts enamel painting of all sizes. We purchased a beautiful scene of a gabare on the river from bygone days. It makes for a very unique souvenier.
My photos will be uploaded to catch up with my trip report by the end of the day.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/crazy4travel
My photos will be uploaded to catch up with my trip report by the end of the day.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/crazy4travel
Jun 3rd, 2007, 01:45 PM
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Kelly, how lovely to find you photos and more of your great report when I returned from a weekend away! I spent the past hour looking at them all, smiling the whole time, remembering our excellent adventures in the Dordogne last June.
Your gite looked inpressive in the photos. Too bad about the dirt and critters!
We loved La Bouquerie, the medieval house we stayed at in Sarlat, booked through Carlux. It was cozy but absolutely spotless and very well equipped. Here's the website for reference: http://www.yourfriendsinfrance.org/
Your gite looked inpressive in the photos. Too bad about the dirt and critters!
We loved La Bouquerie, the medieval house we stayed at in Sarlat, booked through Carlux. It was cozy but absolutely spotless and very well equipped. Here's the website for reference: http://www.yourfriendsinfrance.org/
Jun 3rd, 2007, 02:30 PM
#56
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Thank you leely...yes much we didn't get to do as well. A week in the Dordogne is not nearly enough but I'm sure we'll go back one day.
Moolyn...yes it did look nice from the photos and the reconstruction was really impressive. If you could see the place they are renovating next door, it would give you an idea of how much work they've put into it.
I have an allergy to dust mites so my first order of business was to try and get rid of the dust in my sleeping quarters which was next to impossible base on the dimensions of the room. Unfortunately, the most comfortable bed was located in that room...we tried the bed downstairs but it was really damp. Without heat, you couldn't get the place properly dried out.
I felt better once I cleaned the tub and kitchen..we ran into some ugly bugs and spiders over the week but we tried to be as brave as possible. One stormy night a mouse ran in under the door and immediately ran next door through a crack in the wall. I'm not afraid of mice and I think the thunder and lighting just scared the heck out of it.
We did so much research when trying to find a place with character within our budget but it really does pay to book a place by recommedation...even if you have to pay a little more.
Moolyn...yes it did look nice from the photos and the reconstruction was really impressive. If you could see the place they are renovating next door, it would give you an idea of how much work they've put into it.
I have an allergy to dust mites so my first order of business was to try and get rid of the dust in my sleeping quarters which was next to impossible base on the dimensions of the room. Unfortunately, the most comfortable bed was located in that room...we tried the bed downstairs but it was really damp. Without heat, you couldn't get the place properly dried out.
I felt better once I cleaned the tub and kitchen..we ran into some ugly bugs and spiders over the week but we tried to be as brave as possible. One stormy night a mouse ran in under the door and immediately ran next door through a crack in the wall. I'm not afraid of mice and I think the thunder and lighting just scared the heck out of it.
We did so much research when trying to find a place with character within our budget but it really does pay to book a place by recommedation...even if you have to pay a little more.
Jun 3rd, 2007, 03:01 PM
#57
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Day Six...Sunny..then rainy...then sunny again and light jacket weather to start getting very warm in the afternoon.
The day started out sunny. Our plan was to rent canoes from Le Sioux in Cenac making our way down to Beynac. We arrived at the rental location at opening time around 9:30am and no one seemed to be around. We waited for about 20 minutes and it started to quickly cloud over looking like rain was probable.
We decided that we would not chance being caught on the river in the rain. We quickly changed our plan to visit Beynac Castle which would turn out to be a very wise decision.
Upon arrival in town, we parked in a lot in the lower part of town only to realize that you could drive up to the Castle. Since it was now raining, we walked back to get our car. We realized we were very short on small change for parking so we took a chance that the ticket we had already purchased would be valid at the lot by the castle. We only had enough money for less than an hour of parking. A good tip is that most of the public lots are coin operated so keep lots of small change.
At the ticket booth, my husband spotted a gentleman that looked like a friend of Rick Steves of travel fame. His friend Steve Smith has been in many France episodes of "Travels in Europe" as a liason to help converse with locals and give some background in history.
We made our way into the castle where a tour was in progress. Since the tour was in French, and we really can't comprehend much, we decided to move on ahead on our own. As we entered one of the larger interior rooms, we met up with Rick Steve's himself. I had heard that he was going to be in the Dordogne shooting an episode but we never thought we would cross paths.
We said hello and told him that we had watched all of his shows since the early days. He was very personable to us and asked if we could assist by being in a few scenes. He advised that our friends may see us in the episode in a year or so when it's aired...my 15 minutes of fame just might come to be!!
After a nice tour around the castle, we made our way to the town of Beynac where we crossed paths with Rick Steves again having lunch in a local restaurant. We decided that we would part ways and had lunch at a restaurant down by the river...lovely views.
We had a light lunch...I had the Croque Monsieur with salad and my husband had a pizza with olives, creme fraiche, cheese, lardons and fresh herbs. We agreed to switch half way through, but I had a little remorse because mine was so tasty. We had a demi of rose...total bill 23E.
Our next stop was the gardens at Marqueyssac. The walk is pretty but long in the afternoon heat. The views were well worth the effort. You can see for miles around..views of Beynac and La Roque Gageac are stupendious. Many interesting diversions here to keep you interested along the way. They sell a dual ticket which is good for admission to Chateau Castelnaud which will save you a few euros.
We didn't really have time to canoe in the afternoon based on our plans for the day but we decided that we would like to take the Gabare ride from La Roque in order to experience the river. If you don't canoe, this is a lovely and leisurely trip. The tour takes just under an hour.
We were contemplating a drive into Sarlat for dinner but the revenge was kicking in full force...I usually experience this only in Mexico and the Caribbean so I'm not sure what was upsetting my stomach other than perhaps the tap water.
We decided to make a quick stop at the grocery and have dinner at our gite.
Another fire and another perfect day in the Dordogne.
The photos for this section of the report can be seen at
http://www.kodakgallery.com/crazy4travel
I will be posting them there in the next few minutes.
The day started out sunny. Our plan was to rent canoes from Le Sioux in Cenac making our way down to Beynac. We arrived at the rental location at opening time around 9:30am and no one seemed to be around. We waited for about 20 minutes and it started to quickly cloud over looking like rain was probable.
We decided that we would not chance being caught on the river in the rain. We quickly changed our plan to visit Beynac Castle which would turn out to be a very wise decision.
Upon arrival in town, we parked in a lot in the lower part of town only to realize that you could drive up to the Castle. Since it was now raining, we walked back to get our car. We realized we were very short on small change for parking so we took a chance that the ticket we had already purchased would be valid at the lot by the castle. We only had enough money for less than an hour of parking. A good tip is that most of the public lots are coin operated so keep lots of small change.
At the ticket booth, my husband spotted a gentleman that looked like a friend of Rick Steves of travel fame. His friend Steve Smith has been in many France episodes of "Travels in Europe" as a liason to help converse with locals and give some background in history.
We made our way into the castle where a tour was in progress. Since the tour was in French, and we really can't comprehend much, we decided to move on ahead on our own. As we entered one of the larger interior rooms, we met up with Rick Steve's himself. I had heard that he was going to be in the Dordogne shooting an episode but we never thought we would cross paths.
We said hello and told him that we had watched all of his shows since the early days. He was very personable to us and asked if we could assist by being in a few scenes. He advised that our friends may see us in the episode in a year or so when it's aired...my 15 minutes of fame just might come to be!!
After a nice tour around the castle, we made our way to the town of Beynac where we crossed paths with Rick Steves again having lunch in a local restaurant. We decided that we would part ways and had lunch at a restaurant down by the river...lovely views.
We had a light lunch...I had the Croque Monsieur with salad and my husband had a pizza with olives, creme fraiche, cheese, lardons and fresh herbs. We agreed to switch half way through, but I had a little remorse because mine was so tasty. We had a demi of rose...total bill 23E.
Our next stop was the gardens at Marqueyssac. The walk is pretty but long in the afternoon heat. The views were well worth the effort. You can see for miles around..views of Beynac and La Roque Gageac are stupendious. Many interesting diversions here to keep you interested along the way. They sell a dual ticket which is good for admission to Chateau Castelnaud which will save you a few euros.
We didn't really have time to canoe in the afternoon based on our plans for the day but we decided that we would like to take the Gabare ride from La Roque in order to experience the river. If you don't canoe, this is a lovely and leisurely trip. The tour takes just under an hour.
We were contemplating a drive into Sarlat for dinner but the revenge was kicking in full force...I usually experience this only in Mexico and the Caribbean so I'm not sure what was upsetting my stomach other than perhaps the tap water.
We decided to make a quick stop at the grocery and have dinner at our gite.
Another fire and another perfect day in the Dordogne.
The photos for this section of the report can be seen at
http://www.kodakgallery.com/crazy4travel
I will be posting them there in the next few minutes.
Jun 3rd, 2007, 03:21 PM
#58
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CRAZY, thanks for the photos, they are inspiring.
About the bugs: we've rented quite a few houses in France over the past several years and I must say that one of the "undocumented features" has been the household insect life. We saw a couple of centipedes that I'd rather not see again, a scorpion (which my wife stepped on in her bare feet), and a few industrial-sized spiders. My wife did get bitten by something in Auvergne that left two adjacent punctures and caused a great deal of swelling, discolouration, and pain. (She had turfed a couple of spiders out of the house and later wondered whether they were getting their revenge.)
French food outweighs creepy insects, so we keep going back.
Anselm
About the bugs: we've rented quite a few houses in France over the past several years and I must say that one of the "undocumented features" has been the household insect life. We saw a couple of centipedes that I'd rather not see again, a scorpion (which my wife stepped on in her bare feet), and a few industrial-sized spiders. My wife did get bitten by something in Auvergne that left two adjacent punctures and caused a great deal of swelling, discolouration, and pain. (She had turfed a couple of spiders out of the house and later wondered whether they were getting their revenge.)
French food outweighs creepy insects, so we keep going back.
Anselm
Jun 3rd, 2007, 03:43 PM
#59
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Anselm...so right you are. It was funny because we had a centipede in our bathroom (at least I think that's what it was...never seen one before). It looked like it had 50 legs and was the ugliest thing I had ever seen.
I told my husband he would have to go and kill it. I have to admit that I have never seen him so afraid of a bug...but he was quite brave and a few moments later I heard the toilet flush.
There are so many ways for them to get into the house that it's expected. The house was 250 years old.
Thanks for tuning in to my report.
I told my husband he would have to go and kill it. I have to admit that I have never seen him so afraid of a bug...but he was quite brave and a few moments later I heard the toilet flush.
There are so many ways for them to get into the house that it's expected. The house was 250 years old.
Thanks for tuning in to my report.
Jun 3rd, 2007, 03:47 PM
#60
Crazy,
Wonderful trip report! Sigh... bringing me back to my 4 short days there, and dying to return again!
I did get a kick out of your gite photos - the rooms are HUGE, but it looks like it can get pretty chilly and damp there. But that just means it's full of character, and staying in an old place like that is part of the adventure!
Your inspiring me to get back there someday soon (I hope).
Paule
Wonderful trip report! Sigh... bringing me back to my 4 short days there, and dying to return again!
I did get a kick out of your gite photos - the rooms are HUGE, but it looks like it can get pretty chilly and damp there. But that just means it's full of character, and staying in an old place like that is part of the adventure!
Your inspiring me to get back there someday soon (I hope).
Paule
