Trip Report Cities of Italy May 06
Jun 16th, 2006, 06:06 PM
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TUESDAY
Full day in Florence: Are we good Samaritans or con men?
Our reservation at the Uffizi was for 10:00. We had a good breakfast at Hotel Casci. I particularly liked the machine for boiling eggs. Instead of just eating a hard boiled egg that has been sitting around, you plop your egg in the water and set a timer so you can have warm soft, medium or hard boiled.
We would have walked to the Gallery, but the rain was too heavy, so we called a taxi. At the Uffizi we were a little confused about what we were supposed to do. We stood by a door where people without reservations were in a long line, assuming that those with reservations would be let in first. Then two British men told us that we needed to cross over the courtyard and get our tickets first. If you stand in the Uffizi courtyard facing the river, the entry doors are on the left and that is where the long line forms. In the building on the right is an office where you buy tickets ahead of time, or get the tickets you have reserved by phone. Once you have paid for the ticket in that office, you cross back and stand in a very short line to enter the gallery. E 25 for two, including the charge for advance reservation.
The Uffizi was as wonderful as everyone says. I had the pages of the Art for Travelers Book to use as a guide and it helped us not get bogged down. In addition to the regular mind boggling art (you go from room to room saying—“Oh, I know THAT painting!” —the Uffizi currently has a memorable exhibit of Leonardo Da Vinci. I loved the detailed information on his work. Everywhere we went in Italy, it was clear that Italy’s revenge for the Da Vinci code was to cash in on the interest by mounting a DaVinci exhibit!
When we simply could not walk another step, we stopped at the rooftop terrace. By then the rain had stopped and we enjoyed the sun and the views.
We walked out through the courtyard, now bustling with purveyors of their own kinds of art, and across the plaza in front of the Cathedral, packed with tour groups. We stopped at a cafeteria right on a corner near the cathedral and had a nice inexpensive lunch. Then we walked up the street in search of the alleged best gelato in Florence, near the Accademia, but it was closed. We went on to the Accademia to scout out where we would be going later in the afternoon. The line was unbelievably long, but we saw where people with reservations went in.
As we stood there, we overheard two Americans talking about not being able to get their reservation changed. Turns out they had mistakenly made reservations for the next day (Wednesday) AFTER their time of departure. We asked the time of their reservations, and since it was before our train was to leave for Venice the next day, we offered to swap with them. We gave them our computer printout and they gave us ours and we went our separate ways.
After wandering back through the open air market, and a quick look at the big inside market, we went back to Cathedral Square. The couple had told us not to miss the Baptistery, which they thought was more interesting than the Cathedral. We went inside the Cathedral, then the Baptistery, which indeed is worth the E 3 entrance fee. Because it was still raining off and on, we did not see as much of the exterior of these buildings as I would have liked.
I wanted to see the Opera (Works) Museum of the Duomo, and my husband was about out of patience with religious art at that point. We got tickets and I got the audio guide. He glanced at a few things, then went out to find a place to sit and wait for me. I wandered and enjoyed. The audio guide in this case was too detailed even for me, so I found myself cutting it off in mid sentence frequently. (Euro 17 for two plus one audio guide)
The Opera Museum contains art works that have been removed from the Cathedral for safe keeping or during renovations. It also gives you an opportunity to understand how the Cathedral evolved over the centuries. Again my Art for Travelers book pointed out some high points.
A terrible thought had struck us. The people who traded reservations with us had paid in advance and had VOUCHERS, not just reservations. We had traded reservations (for which they would have to purchase tickets) for prepaid vouchers. We owed them 25 euros. We decided to try to catch them at the time they would be using our reservation (3:00 p.m.), and pay them what we owed them. When we got to the Accademia we ran into them and learned that they had gone in early (apparently the museum does not care that much about the exact time on your reservation). Yes, they had paid, but they did not mind. They were just so happy to have the opportunity to go in. But we paid them the price of the voucher and left with a clear conscience. What are the odds that we would run into them TWICE?
That evening we asked at the Casci for a recommendation for dinner and they pointed us to Za Za’s Trattoria near the Market. Even though it was still raining, they had outdoor seating under plastic tents. We were in the rustic interior, seated with other Americans. Everyone is seated at long tables and we wondered if they group people by the language they speak.
The food was traditional and terrific. I had a polenta appetizer with mushrooms on two and pate on two, we shared a salad. Being in Florence, I ordered beefsteak w/ Za Za sauce (cognac and rosemary). Hubby had ravioli with a creamy walnut sauce. A dessert of custard with strawberries and a limoncella completed the meal. (E 45)
WEDNESDAY
A final glance at Florence
We had to get our bags ready for departure and then walked to the railroad station to buy our tickets for Venice. (E53.20 for 2 on Eurostar). We walked by Santa Maria church near the station, but it was not open. Then we walked on down to the river and took pictures of the bridges, but did not cross the Ponte Vecchio. I would have liked to go to the Pitti Palace, but we were concerned about getting into Accademia and back to the train station I time.
We did get into the Accademia and took our time enjoying David and took just enough time to see the “unfinished” work by Michelangelo and a couple of paintings mentioned in the “Art for Travelers” book. In all, including a gift shop stop, we probably were not there longer than half an hour. Then it was back to the hotel, walk our luggage to the train station and board for Venice.
Next up Venice, er, ah, Mestre and Venice.
Full day in Florence: Are we good Samaritans or con men?
Our reservation at the Uffizi was for 10:00. We had a good breakfast at Hotel Casci. I particularly liked the machine for boiling eggs. Instead of just eating a hard boiled egg that has been sitting around, you plop your egg in the water and set a timer so you can have warm soft, medium or hard boiled.
We would have walked to the Gallery, but the rain was too heavy, so we called a taxi. At the Uffizi we were a little confused about what we were supposed to do. We stood by a door where people without reservations were in a long line, assuming that those with reservations would be let in first. Then two British men told us that we needed to cross over the courtyard and get our tickets first. If you stand in the Uffizi courtyard facing the river, the entry doors are on the left and that is where the long line forms. In the building on the right is an office where you buy tickets ahead of time, or get the tickets you have reserved by phone. Once you have paid for the ticket in that office, you cross back and stand in a very short line to enter the gallery. E 25 for two, including the charge for advance reservation.
The Uffizi was as wonderful as everyone says. I had the pages of the Art for Travelers Book to use as a guide and it helped us not get bogged down. In addition to the regular mind boggling art (you go from room to room saying—“Oh, I know THAT painting!” —the Uffizi currently has a memorable exhibit of Leonardo Da Vinci. I loved the detailed information on his work. Everywhere we went in Italy, it was clear that Italy’s revenge for the Da Vinci code was to cash in on the interest by mounting a DaVinci exhibit!
When we simply could not walk another step, we stopped at the rooftop terrace. By then the rain had stopped and we enjoyed the sun and the views.
We walked out through the courtyard, now bustling with purveyors of their own kinds of art, and across the plaza in front of the Cathedral, packed with tour groups. We stopped at a cafeteria right on a corner near the cathedral and had a nice inexpensive lunch. Then we walked up the street in search of the alleged best gelato in Florence, near the Accademia, but it was closed. We went on to the Accademia to scout out where we would be going later in the afternoon. The line was unbelievably long, but we saw where people with reservations went in.
As we stood there, we overheard two Americans talking about not being able to get their reservation changed. Turns out they had mistakenly made reservations for the next day (Wednesday) AFTER their time of departure. We asked the time of their reservations, and since it was before our train was to leave for Venice the next day, we offered to swap with them. We gave them our computer printout and they gave us ours and we went our separate ways.
After wandering back through the open air market, and a quick look at the big inside market, we went back to Cathedral Square. The couple had told us not to miss the Baptistery, which they thought was more interesting than the Cathedral. We went inside the Cathedral, then the Baptistery, which indeed is worth the E 3 entrance fee. Because it was still raining off and on, we did not see as much of the exterior of these buildings as I would have liked.
I wanted to see the Opera (Works) Museum of the Duomo, and my husband was about out of patience with religious art at that point. We got tickets and I got the audio guide. He glanced at a few things, then went out to find a place to sit and wait for me. I wandered and enjoyed. The audio guide in this case was too detailed even for me, so I found myself cutting it off in mid sentence frequently. (Euro 17 for two plus one audio guide)
The Opera Museum contains art works that have been removed from the Cathedral for safe keeping or during renovations. It also gives you an opportunity to understand how the Cathedral evolved over the centuries. Again my Art for Travelers book pointed out some high points.
A terrible thought had struck us. The people who traded reservations with us had paid in advance and had VOUCHERS, not just reservations. We had traded reservations (for which they would have to purchase tickets) for prepaid vouchers. We owed them 25 euros. We decided to try to catch them at the time they would be using our reservation (3:00 p.m.), and pay them what we owed them. When we got to the Accademia we ran into them and learned that they had gone in early (apparently the museum does not care that much about the exact time on your reservation). Yes, they had paid, but they did not mind. They were just so happy to have the opportunity to go in. But we paid them the price of the voucher and left with a clear conscience. What are the odds that we would run into them TWICE?
That evening we asked at the Casci for a recommendation for dinner and they pointed us to Za Za’s Trattoria near the Market. Even though it was still raining, they had outdoor seating under plastic tents. We were in the rustic interior, seated with other Americans. Everyone is seated at long tables and we wondered if they group people by the language they speak.
The food was traditional and terrific. I had a polenta appetizer with mushrooms on two and pate on two, we shared a salad. Being in Florence, I ordered beefsteak w/ Za Za sauce (cognac and rosemary). Hubby had ravioli with a creamy walnut sauce. A dessert of custard with strawberries and a limoncella completed the meal. (E 45)
WEDNESDAY
A final glance at Florence
We had to get our bags ready for departure and then walked to the railroad station to buy our tickets for Venice. (E53.20 for 2 on Eurostar). We walked by Santa Maria church near the station, but it was not open. Then we walked on down to the river and took pictures of the bridges, but did not cross the Ponte Vecchio. I would have liked to go to the Pitti Palace, but we were concerned about getting into Accademia and back to the train station I time.
We did get into the Accademia and took our time enjoying David and took just enough time to see the “unfinished” work by Michelangelo and a couple of paintings mentioned in the “Art for Travelers” book. In all, including a gift shop stop, we probably were not there longer than half an hour. Then it was back to the hotel, walk our luggage to the train station and board for Venice.
Next up Venice, er, ah, Mestre and Venice.
Jun 17th, 2006, 04:41 PM
#22
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WEDNESDAY continued
Mestre and Venice, a match made in Heaven
When we got off the train at Mestre and went out the front door, we could see the sign for the Hotel Bologna. Incredibly convenient. The lobby is modern and impressive. I told the desk clerk I had heard that they had some rooms that had not been upgraded and hoped we would have an upgraded one. He gave us a deluxe instead of a standard double. And we were paying the special internet rate of E 79.50 per night. As we started to walk off, he stopped us and handed us four one-way train passes to Venice station, which were part of the special deal. (The hotel also sells train tickets at the desk as a convenience for guests).
We were blown away by the modern, stylish room. It reminded me of the style in Scandinavian countries, but then I reminded myself that Italy has some pretty cutting edge style, itself. We did not waste much time getting settled, as we wanted to get to Venice. We found a train to Venice. Not a problem since they run every few minutes. Coming out of the train station, we veered to the left to the vaporetto stop and bought the 72-hour passes (E50 for two people). The clerk told us we needed to get line 82 to get to St. Marks. Unfortunately, we did not look at the directional signs above the doors and got on a vaporetto that was heading the wrong way. In a short time I realized that we were not going to make the grand entrance down the Grand Canal that I had dreamed of. Instead we were circling around the south side of Venice in the lagoon.
Let me explain something. There are two vaporetto stops at the train station. Boats from the one on the left go to the right (out into the lagoon). Boats from the one on the right go to the left (down the Grand Canal). Bottom line—always look at the route map, which includes all the stops and arrows. Also, take a map that shows vaporetto stops as the names will sound strange until you are familiar with them. The Cadogan guide, lacking in many other ways, had a very good vaporetto map.
We wandered around St. Mark’s Square and through some neighborhoods, surprised at the mobs of people everywhere. Getting hungry, we stopped at an ou-of-the-way pizza place called Bar Karibu in the Castello area. Their sign read “no cover, no service charge” and they were indeed very reasonable. They never did serve the salad we ordered and we were too early for dining in Venice, but the pizza and Chianti were okay for E 15.60
I still wanted a salad so when we got back to the train station, decided to find Brek’s which has been recommended on the forum. The salad choices were good, but the place was a little seedy around the edges. A destitute old woman was picking through the food trays left by customers and the bathroom was absolutely filthy.
When we got ready to go back to Mestre, we had to ask which trains stopped there. Learned that all trains marked Regional stop at Mestre.
THURSDAY
We had a “down” morning, finding a laundromat about eight blocks from the hotel to catch up on dirty clothes, a place to buy bottled water, and a drugstore for some miscellaneous things. The street the Hotel Bologna faces is a shopping street for Mestre. After all the tourist areas, it is a relief to be in a normal place. The streets are clean, the people friendly and there are pretty parks, one with a farmer’s market. Not the industrial horror of a town I had been led to expect. It took a while to find the laundromat, but only because we misunderestimated the distance from the hotel (I read here that Italians routinely say things are closer than they really are), and because we thought we needed to turn down a side street. So we saw more of Mestre than we intended to.
Why do hotels and regular laundromat (not self-serve) charge 4 euros to wash a pair of underpants? (Not just in Italy, but everywhere). We would have to cut our vacation by several days if we resorted to commercial laundry service.
We had an interesting encounter at the self-serve laundromat (which in Italian is “lavanderia self-service” by the way.) I had read the very clear instructions on the signs on the wall and was getting ready to put the money in and push the required buttons. A nicely dressed woman who was washing a large bedspread started talking to me excitedly in Italian. We tried to understand each other, but failed. I do not know why I did not pull out my phrase book, but at any rate she finally shrugged and when an Italian woman came in, she talked to her. Turned out she was trying to tell me that she had already paid for the use of one of the machines and I could use it. When the Italian woman used the machine, the nice woman refused reimbursement. I then told her (in pidgeon Italian) that now I understood. I complimented her on her bella outfit and she smiled and said in English “Italian style.”
After checking my e-mail at the hotel (you have to pay 2 euros for half an hour) we headed back to Venice. It was lunch time, and I had my list of recommended restaurants. Thought the piazza place Ae Oche near the St. Stae stop sounded good. We got off at that stop, but instead of Ae Oche, heard musicians playing and went to Alla Fontanella, a place advertised as “Cucina Casalingua.” At first I thought that was the name of a restaurant, but I saw it so frequently that I finally looked it up in my “Eating in Italy” book and found out it just means “home cooking.” While I am on names, I should note that it was frustrating trying to find restaurants by name because many just have “ristorante” or “trattoria” or “Osteria” on their signs and the names are hidden or non-existent.
So good luck trying to find the fine little restaurant, that was patronized mostly by Italian-speakers. We got off at the St. Stae stop, took the street to the right that leads inland then turned left toward a plaza. The street sign opposite the restaurant reads Campello del Spezier. (Vague enough?)
We had gnocchi al Quattro fromage, penne alla arrabatta, coda di rospo all griglia (monk fish) and one wine. Total E 40. They also advertised a set menu with two dishes for E 14.50
We walked on down to St. Marks and tried to get tickets for Saturday for the Doge’s Secret Tour, but could not get tickets for ANY day. I had asked at the hotel and they claimed that I could only get them here, so I was out of luck. Very disappointed, we got tickets to tour the Palazzo Ducale, anyway. Tickets 24 euros for two. Loved it. There are lots of big signs with detailed information in English. I particularly liked the Tintoretto painted walls and ceilings. True to my propensity, I got lost in the prisons and never did get to the Bridge of Sighs, but was glad to find my husband when I finally emerged.
We headed for the sidewalk café with classical music playing and later learned it was the famous, venerable Florian’s. If you go there, be sure to go inside and see the beautifully decorated small rooms. Prepared for the prices, I told my husband it was the price of the seat and the “floor show” of pigeons and people. One glass of wine (with complimentary dish of potato chips) and one small dish of gelato—33 Euros.
Time to eat again, and we went looking for a restaurant on my list, Osteria Al Assasinini. We walked past the Fenice opera house (wish I had made arrangements to tour it inside) and saw the Café Teatro, which was also on my list. Teatro is a big place, with multiple dining rooms, formal waiters and a couple of outdoor areas. I could not resist the name of Assasinini, so we went on to the Assasinini street and found the little, very traditional restaurant. As usual, we were the first people there, but it started filling by the time we left. Another wonderful meal. Apparently they change most of the menu every day. We had pasta assassin with olives in a spicy tomato sauce; grilled vegetables (wonderful mixture); and the soup of the day, a bean and vegetable soup. With a glass of pinot grigio, it came to 33 euros (Same as our Florian seat at St. Marks!). Walked to the San Angelo stop and took the vaporetto back to the train station.
Mestre and Venice, a match made in Heaven
When we got off the train at Mestre and went out the front door, we could see the sign for the Hotel Bologna. Incredibly convenient. The lobby is modern and impressive. I told the desk clerk I had heard that they had some rooms that had not been upgraded and hoped we would have an upgraded one. He gave us a deluxe instead of a standard double. And we were paying the special internet rate of E 79.50 per night. As we started to walk off, he stopped us and handed us four one-way train passes to Venice station, which were part of the special deal. (The hotel also sells train tickets at the desk as a convenience for guests).
We were blown away by the modern, stylish room. It reminded me of the style in Scandinavian countries, but then I reminded myself that Italy has some pretty cutting edge style, itself. We did not waste much time getting settled, as we wanted to get to Venice. We found a train to Venice. Not a problem since they run every few minutes. Coming out of the train station, we veered to the left to the vaporetto stop and bought the 72-hour passes (E50 for two people). The clerk told us we needed to get line 82 to get to St. Marks. Unfortunately, we did not look at the directional signs above the doors and got on a vaporetto that was heading the wrong way. In a short time I realized that we were not going to make the grand entrance down the Grand Canal that I had dreamed of. Instead we were circling around the south side of Venice in the lagoon.
Let me explain something. There are two vaporetto stops at the train station. Boats from the one on the left go to the right (out into the lagoon). Boats from the one on the right go to the left (down the Grand Canal). Bottom line—always look at the route map, which includes all the stops and arrows. Also, take a map that shows vaporetto stops as the names will sound strange until you are familiar with them. The Cadogan guide, lacking in many other ways, had a very good vaporetto map.
We wandered around St. Mark’s Square and through some neighborhoods, surprised at the mobs of people everywhere. Getting hungry, we stopped at an ou-of-the-way pizza place called Bar Karibu in the Castello area. Their sign read “no cover, no service charge” and they were indeed very reasonable. They never did serve the salad we ordered and we were too early for dining in Venice, but the pizza and Chianti were okay for E 15.60
I still wanted a salad so when we got back to the train station, decided to find Brek’s which has been recommended on the forum. The salad choices were good, but the place was a little seedy around the edges. A destitute old woman was picking through the food trays left by customers and the bathroom was absolutely filthy.
When we got ready to go back to Mestre, we had to ask which trains stopped there. Learned that all trains marked Regional stop at Mestre.
THURSDAY
We had a “down” morning, finding a laundromat about eight blocks from the hotel to catch up on dirty clothes, a place to buy bottled water, and a drugstore for some miscellaneous things. The street the Hotel Bologna faces is a shopping street for Mestre. After all the tourist areas, it is a relief to be in a normal place. The streets are clean, the people friendly and there are pretty parks, one with a farmer’s market. Not the industrial horror of a town I had been led to expect. It took a while to find the laundromat, but only because we misunderestimated the distance from the hotel (I read here that Italians routinely say things are closer than they really are), and because we thought we needed to turn down a side street. So we saw more of Mestre than we intended to.
Why do hotels and regular laundromat (not self-serve) charge 4 euros to wash a pair of underpants? (Not just in Italy, but everywhere). We would have to cut our vacation by several days if we resorted to commercial laundry service.
We had an interesting encounter at the self-serve laundromat (which in Italian is “lavanderia self-service” by the way.) I had read the very clear instructions on the signs on the wall and was getting ready to put the money in and push the required buttons. A nicely dressed woman who was washing a large bedspread started talking to me excitedly in Italian. We tried to understand each other, but failed. I do not know why I did not pull out my phrase book, but at any rate she finally shrugged and when an Italian woman came in, she talked to her. Turned out she was trying to tell me that she had already paid for the use of one of the machines and I could use it. When the Italian woman used the machine, the nice woman refused reimbursement. I then told her (in pidgeon Italian) that now I understood. I complimented her on her bella outfit and she smiled and said in English “Italian style.”
After checking my e-mail at the hotel (you have to pay 2 euros for half an hour) we headed back to Venice. It was lunch time, and I had my list of recommended restaurants. Thought the piazza place Ae Oche near the St. Stae stop sounded good. We got off at that stop, but instead of Ae Oche, heard musicians playing and went to Alla Fontanella, a place advertised as “Cucina Casalingua.” At first I thought that was the name of a restaurant, but I saw it so frequently that I finally looked it up in my “Eating in Italy” book and found out it just means “home cooking.” While I am on names, I should note that it was frustrating trying to find restaurants by name because many just have “ristorante” or “trattoria” or “Osteria” on their signs and the names are hidden or non-existent.
So good luck trying to find the fine little restaurant, that was patronized mostly by Italian-speakers. We got off at the St. Stae stop, took the street to the right that leads inland then turned left toward a plaza. The street sign opposite the restaurant reads Campello del Spezier. (Vague enough?)
We had gnocchi al Quattro fromage, penne alla arrabatta, coda di rospo all griglia (monk fish) and one wine. Total E 40. They also advertised a set menu with two dishes for E 14.50
We walked on down to St. Marks and tried to get tickets for Saturday for the Doge’s Secret Tour, but could not get tickets for ANY day. I had asked at the hotel and they claimed that I could only get them here, so I was out of luck. Very disappointed, we got tickets to tour the Palazzo Ducale, anyway. Tickets 24 euros for two. Loved it. There are lots of big signs with detailed information in English. I particularly liked the Tintoretto painted walls and ceilings. True to my propensity, I got lost in the prisons and never did get to the Bridge of Sighs, but was glad to find my husband when I finally emerged.
We headed for the sidewalk café with classical music playing and later learned it was the famous, venerable Florian’s. If you go there, be sure to go inside and see the beautifully decorated small rooms. Prepared for the prices, I told my husband it was the price of the seat and the “floor show” of pigeons and people. One glass of wine (with complimentary dish of potato chips) and one small dish of gelato—33 Euros.
Time to eat again, and we went looking for a restaurant on my list, Osteria Al Assasinini. We walked past the Fenice opera house (wish I had made arrangements to tour it inside) and saw the Café Teatro, which was also on my list. Teatro is a big place, with multiple dining rooms, formal waiters and a couple of outdoor areas. I could not resist the name of Assasinini, so we went on to the Assasinini street and found the little, very traditional restaurant. As usual, we were the first people there, but it started filling by the time we left. Another wonderful meal. Apparently they change most of the menu every day. We had pasta assassin with olives in a spicy tomato sauce; grilled vegetables (wonderful mixture); and the soup of the day, a bean and vegetable soup. With a glass of pinot grigio, it came to 33 euros (Same as our Florian seat at St. Marks!). Walked to the San Angelo stop and took the vaporetto back to the train station.
Jun 18th, 2006, 06:39 AM
#23
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Vera -
I am really enjoying your trip report and am relieved to find out that you are not con men! Great experience!
We went to Rome and Florence this year and plan to return to Florence and Venice next year so your experiences are very helpful.
Thanks!
I am really enjoying your trip report and am relieved to find out that you are not con men! Great experience!
We went to Rome and Florence this year and plan to return to Florence and Venice next year so your experiences are very helpful.
Thanks!
Jun 18th, 2006, 10:39 AM
#24
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LC:
Thanks for your note. I got so much help from Fodors, that I hope I can be of help to others. I just noticed that when I thanked individuals, I left off Bob the Navigator who was a great source of helpful hints. Thanks, Bob!
Here's the next installment:
FRIDAY
A Day for Art
We got off to a late start, despite our promise to Fodorites that we would go to Venice early ever day. About ten a.m. took the train and the very crowded vaporetto to the Accademia stop.
Nearly every vaporetto we were on was overcrowded, night or day. I rarely had a seat. I felt sorry for people struggling with luggage or baby strollers.
Our objective today was the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Beautiful, peaceful,and a break from Renaissance religious art. A bonus is the wonderful little café overlooking the courtyard. The café is catered by the restaurant Ai Gondoleri, near the Accademia stop and I later wondered why we had not looked it up for a meal. He had a club sandwich and I had a beautiful salad with mozzarella buffalo, cherry tomatoes, prosciutto, artichokes, and arugula. With wine and water, 29 euros.
While he read the paper, I checked out a photo exhibit next to the café, a retrospective of the Venice Biennial. Candid shots of people like Picasso.
We took the vaporetto down to the tip to see the Salute church, where I was looking for a Tintoretto and a couple other paintings from the Art in Italy book. There is a back room that you pay to enter. Don’t miss it. That’s where the really good paintings are. Husband went off on the vaporetto to find a gelato while I did my church thing.
Then we took another vaporetto to Toma stop and walked to the Scuola de Santa Rocca. I visited the Tintorettos in the church (which is free) and then went to the Scuola. The charge is 5.50 euros, including an audio guide. This was my favorite place in Venice. The enormous paintings by Tintoretto are unbelievable. It really is too much to take in at one visit. Meanwhile, my husband was relaxing on the plaza, listening to a classical sidewalk musician group, so he was happy too.
We walked back to the train station and I wanted to sit canal side and have a glass of wine. We went to the restaurant that is the first one along the canal on the station side. NOT a good choice, of course, because of its location. It was overpriced, but again, I felt I was paying for the seat.
Got a half liter of Chianti, olives and a cheese plate and bread for the ever famous amount—-33 euros.
Train back to Hotel Bologna for a short rest and dinner in their wonderful restaurant called Datura. This restaurant is worth a trip to Mestre, even if you are staying on the island. They serve traditional food in very modern surroundings. We ordered a spelt (wheat) risotto with asparagus, a salad, mixed deep-fried fish and vegetables (just artichokes) and two desserts. 43.50 euros.
Next our almost-last-day and really-last day in Venice and after thoughts.
Thanks for your note. I got so much help from Fodors, that I hope I can be of help to others. I just noticed that when I thanked individuals, I left off Bob the Navigator who was a great source of helpful hints. Thanks, Bob!
Here's the next installment:
FRIDAY
A Day for Art
We got off to a late start, despite our promise to Fodorites that we would go to Venice early ever day. About ten a.m. took the train and the very crowded vaporetto to the Accademia stop.
Nearly every vaporetto we were on was overcrowded, night or day. I rarely had a seat. I felt sorry for people struggling with luggage or baby strollers.
Our objective today was the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Beautiful, peaceful,and a break from Renaissance religious art. A bonus is the wonderful little café overlooking the courtyard. The café is catered by the restaurant Ai Gondoleri, near the Accademia stop and I later wondered why we had not looked it up for a meal. He had a club sandwich and I had a beautiful salad with mozzarella buffalo, cherry tomatoes, prosciutto, artichokes, and arugula. With wine and water, 29 euros.
While he read the paper, I checked out a photo exhibit next to the café, a retrospective of the Venice Biennial. Candid shots of people like Picasso.
We took the vaporetto down to the tip to see the Salute church, where I was looking for a Tintoretto and a couple other paintings from the Art in Italy book. There is a back room that you pay to enter. Don’t miss it. That’s where the really good paintings are. Husband went off on the vaporetto to find a gelato while I did my church thing.
Then we took another vaporetto to Toma stop and walked to the Scuola de Santa Rocca. I visited the Tintorettos in the church (which is free) and then went to the Scuola. The charge is 5.50 euros, including an audio guide. This was my favorite place in Venice. The enormous paintings by Tintoretto are unbelievable. It really is too much to take in at one visit. Meanwhile, my husband was relaxing on the plaza, listening to a classical sidewalk musician group, so he was happy too.
We walked back to the train station and I wanted to sit canal side and have a glass of wine. We went to the restaurant that is the first one along the canal on the station side. NOT a good choice, of course, because of its location. It was overpriced, but again, I felt I was paying for the seat.
Got a half liter of Chianti, olives and a cheese plate and bread for the ever famous amount—-33 euros.
Train back to Hotel Bologna for a short rest and dinner in their wonderful restaurant called Datura. This restaurant is worth a trip to Mestre, even if you are staying on the island. They serve traditional food in very modern surroundings. We ordered a spelt (wheat) risotto with asparagus, a salad, mixed deep-fried fish and vegetables (just artichokes) and two desserts. 43.50 euros.
Next our almost-last-day and really-last day in Venice and after thoughts.
Jun 18th, 2006, 10:48 AM
#25
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SATURDAY
On Saturday morning, our grandson and his fiancée came by train from the military base where they are stationed. We walked up the street from Hotel Bologna to a photo shop and downloaded all the photos on my camera to a CD for 5 euros. (I had seen signs for 7 or 8 euros in Venice.) Then we took a train to Venice station.
We walked through the streets to the Ghetto and the Holocaust memorial in Nuovo Ghetto. We hopped a vaporetto (love those passes, but ours expires today and we have to get a day pass) for Academia. Since I could not get the secret Doge tour for the four of us, I had reserved four places to tour Academia Museum. (13 euros for 2, plus 4 euros for one audio guide). When I called, they indicated that there were only a few places, but there did not seem to be a line when we arrived.
Grandson was starving, so we grabbed quick sandwiches at the little café just outside the front door and promised we would eat later.
This museum has such a variety of things that it is difficult to absorb in one trip. My favorites were the 17th/18th century paintings of Venice and Venetians. Again my husband burned out before the rest of us and when we got through, he was sitting at the café having a cup of chocolate.
We walked up to St. Stefano Campo and randomly picked Le Café from the several cafes around the plaza. We had two “laguna” salads, club sandwich, primavera salads, and a bottle of Pinot Grigio. (Do not have the receipt with price) Had read that Gelataria Paolin on that Campo is excellent, so grandson found it and we all had gelatos. They were excellent.
From there we walked back to St. Mark's and since none of us had been inside the basilica, we went. Can you believe I forgot about going up to see the horses? But fiancée and I paid the extra euros to see the back of the altar and the treasure room. Grandson follows his grandpa’s example and burns out on churches rapidly.
The young folks decided they needed to get back to the base, and we went back to the train station and they dramatically ran to get on a train, which of course didn’t leave on time, so we dramatically waved from the platform and then as we started to walk away, realized we could take this same train to Mestre, so we ran down the platform and rode with them and said goodbye again at Mestre.
After organizing and packing for our departure in the morning, we asked at the front desk for a restaurant recommendation and they told us about one about three blocks away. We walked over there and it looked very nice, but the man said it was all booked up for the entire evening, so we went back and ate at Datura again, spending 37 euro on another very good meal.
Sunday morning we picked up our rental car (see Le Marche trip report).
Fast forward to the following Saturday when we returned to Venice, turned in the car and returned to Hotel Bologna. We left most of our luggage at the desk and took a couple small bags to our room, then headed back to Venice about four in the afternoon. Hubby was tired from a long day of driving, and decided to break his usual no-alcohol rule and have a Sambucca.
We took the vaporetto to Rialto and walked around a bit. I was scouting for Madonna restaurant, and easily found it on a side street near the Rialto bridge.
We sat at one of the many restaurants lining the Grand Canal and had drinks and as he was not going to dinner with me, he ordered a seafood appetizer. After sitting and watching the world go by for a while, we started wandering through the streets in the general direction of the train station.
We had not really done any shopping during the trip, except when I bought a couple of scarves in Florence, so we picked up some gifts for family members at various stores. Venice is not the best place to shop because prices are inflated, but it was the last minute and so….
Finally, I decided to say goodnight to my husband and turn back toward Madonna Restaurant.He went on to the train station. I enjoyed the golden evening light, took lots of pictures, people watched, saw a bridal party on the Rialto Bridge, and finally, at 7:00 opening time, went to Madonna Restaurant. Turns out it had been open for 15 minutes and it quickly filled. It obviously is a very popular place with the locals.
I loved the general atmosphere of the place, and was sorry I was not hungrier so I could try more of their good food. I had a very light meal, not even any wine, for 20 euros. Then I crossed the bridge to the vaporetto stop, took one last vaporetto ride and one last train for Mestre.
We had that beastly early morning flight—this one to Paris, so set a couple of alarms and left a wakeup call. No problem. We woke up. We had bought tickets the night before for the airport shuttle bus. It was about a block-and-a-half walk from the hotel, no problem at all, and cost much less than a taxi.
The ride was short and I had gone in the restroom at the airport to comb my hair when I heard “Hi Grandma.” It was the fiancée. We knew they were taking a flight to the US that day, but did not know we would see them in the airport!
Our connections were very tight—none of the last minute shopping that I usually do at airports. However, in Dallas our plane was late. Finally got home about an hour and a half late.
Next, some retrospective thoughts.
On Saturday morning, our grandson and his fiancée came by train from the military base where they are stationed. We walked up the street from Hotel Bologna to a photo shop and downloaded all the photos on my camera to a CD for 5 euros. (I had seen signs for 7 or 8 euros in Venice.) Then we took a train to Venice station.
We walked through the streets to the Ghetto and the Holocaust memorial in Nuovo Ghetto. We hopped a vaporetto (love those passes, but ours expires today and we have to get a day pass) for Academia. Since I could not get the secret Doge tour for the four of us, I had reserved four places to tour Academia Museum. (13 euros for 2, plus 4 euros for one audio guide). When I called, they indicated that there were only a few places, but there did not seem to be a line when we arrived.
Grandson was starving, so we grabbed quick sandwiches at the little café just outside the front door and promised we would eat later.
This museum has such a variety of things that it is difficult to absorb in one trip. My favorites were the 17th/18th century paintings of Venice and Venetians. Again my husband burned out before the rest of us and when we got through, he was sitting at the café having a cup of chocolate.
We walked up to St. Stefano Campo and randomly picked Le Café from the several cafes around the plaza. We had two “laguna” salads, club sandwich, primavera salads, and a bottle of Pinot Grigio. (Do not have the receipt with price) Had read that Gelataria Paolin on that Campo is excellent, so grandson found it and we all had gelatos. They were excellent.
From there we walked back to St. Mark's and since none of us had been inside the basilica, we went. Can you believe I forgot about going up to see the horses? But fiancée and I paid the extra euros to see the back of the altar and the treasure room. Grandson follows his grandpa’s example and burns out on churches rapidly.
The young folks decided they needed to get back to the base, and we went back to the train station and they dramatically ran to get on a train, which of course didn’t leave on time, so we dramatically waved from the platform and then as we started to walk away, realized we could take this same train to Mestre, so we ran down the platform and rode with them and said goodbye again at Mestre.
After organizing and packing for our departure in the morning, we asked at the front desk for a restaurant recommendation and they told us about one about three blocks away. We walked over there and it looked very nice, but the man said it was all booked up for the entire evening, so we went back and ate at Datura again, spending 37 euro on another very good meal.
Sunday morning we picked up our rental car (see Le Marche trip report).
Fast forward to the following Saturday when we returned to Venice, turned in the car and returned to Hotel Bologna. We left most of our luggage at the desk and took a couple small bags to our room, then headed back to Venice about four in the afternoon. Hubby was tired from a long day of driving, and decided to break his usual no-alcohol rule and have a Sambucca.
We took the vaporetto to Rialto and walked around a bit. I was scouting for Madonna restaurant, and easily found it on a side street near the Rialto bridge.
We sat at one of the many restaurants lining the Grand Canal and had drinks and as he was not going to dinner with me, he ordered a seafood appetizer. After sitting and watching the world go by for a while, we started wandering through the streets in the general direction of the train station.
We had not really done any shopping during the trip, except when I bought a couple of scarves in Florence, so we picked up some gifts for family members at various stores. Venice is not the best place to shop because prices are inflated, but it was the last minute and so….
Finally, I decided to say goodnight to my husband and turn back toward Madonna Restaurant.He went on to the train station. I enjoyed the golden evening light, took lots of pictures, people watched, saw a bridal party on the Rialto Bridge, and finally, at 7:00 opening time, went to Madonna Restaurant. Turns out it had been open for 15 minutes and it quickly filled. It obviously is a very popular place with the locals.
I loved the general atmosphere of the place, and was sorry I was not hungrier so I could try more of their good food. I had a very light meal, not even any wine, for 20 euros. Then I crossed the bridge to the vaporetto stop, took one last vaporetto ride and one last train for Mestre.
We had that beastly early morning flight—this one to Paris, so set a couple of alarms and left a wakeup call. No problem. We woke up. We had bought tickets the night before for the airport shuttle bus. It was about a block-and-a-half walk from the hotel, no problem at all, and cost much less than a taxi.
The ride was short and I had gone in the restroom at the airport to comb my hair when I heard “Hi Grandma.” It was the fiancée. We knew they were taking a flight to the US that day, but did not know we would see them in the airport!
Our connections were very tight—none of the last minute shopping that I usually do at airports. However, in Dallas our plane was late. Finally got home about an hour and a half late.
Next, some retrospective thoughts.
Jun 18th, 2006, 11:01 AM
#26
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Final Thoughts
I would spend weeks in Rome, but husband probably would be reluctant just because he does not like big cities.
We both would go back to Florence in a heartbeat. The small, manageable size, the general atmosphere that seems somehow to be still stuck in the Renaissance, casually in love with art. The beauty of the buildings and the setting.
Neither of us loved Venice as we thought we would. Certainly it is photogenic, and I took more pictures there than anywhere and I loved the Tintorettos and all the museums we were in. But we hated being packed in crowds everywhere and feeling like we had to fight my way past tacky shopping (Please, no more boxer shorts featuring David's attributes) to get to the good stuff (museums and churches).
Note: I do not understand how people get lost in Venice. I tried. There are just too many signs on street corners pointing the way to landmarks and it is way too small.
We did not for a moment regret staying at the Hotel Bologna in Mestre. Particularly when we saw people struggling with their luggage on vaporettos and getting off with a bewildered—where now? look in their eyes.
In retrospect I am amazed at how many really good meals we had (many found by chance), and that we were able to keep our food budget in line. A poster here had told me that it was absolutely impossible to eat for 20 euors a person per meal in Rome unless we were living on pizza. Not true. Mostly that is just because we only ordered what we needed to eat, not succumbing to the reasoning that because we were in Italy we had to have an appetizer, a Primi piatti and a Secundo and a dessert. The most useful phrase, right up there with “il conte, per favore” (check, please) was “Una per due”—One serving for two people. Nobody blinks an eye when you request courses that way.
The food surprised me in other ways. I thought grilled vegetables were just an American trendy restaurant thing, but we found them on nearly all menus and always done very nicely. I thought white pizzas were a California thing, but nearly always we were given the option of having tomato sauce and the selections of pizza toppings were awesome. I loved the ones with fresh greens on top, for instance. We became addicted to gnocchi.
The gypsy women sitting by the street holding babies and looking pathetic were the most appalling beggars I have seen anywhere. What a way to use a baby! Pickpockets certainly had plenty of opportunity to try to prey on us on crowded buses and subways in Rome and Florence and packed vaporettos in Venice, but I guess we were lucky.
We would definitely like to go back—see the south, see the lake country, see more parts of Le Marche that we missed, try again to see highlights of Rome, spend a week roaming through Florence, checking out the Veneto north of Venice. An 18-day trip hardly made a dent!
Ciao.
I would spend weeks in Rome, but husband probably would be reluctant just because he does not like big cities.
We both would go back to Florence in a heartbeat. The small, manageable size, the general atmosphere that seems somehow to be still stuck in the Renaissance, casually in love with art. The beauty of the buildings and the setting.
Neither of us loved Venice as we thought we would. Certainly it is photogenic, and I took more pictures there than anywhere and I loved the Tintorettos and all the museums we were in. But we hated being packed in crowds everywhere and feeling like we had to fight my way past tacky shopping (Please, no more boxer shorts featuring David's attributes) to get to the good stuff (museums and churches).
Note: I do not understand how people get lost in Venice. I tried. There are just too many signs on street corners pointing the way to landmarks and it is way too small.
We did not for a moment regret staying at the Hotel Bologna in Mestre. Particularly when we saw people struggling with their luggage on vaporettos and getting off with a bewildered—where now? look in their eyes.
In retrospect I am amazed at how many really good meals we had (many found by chance), and that we were able to keep our food budget in line. A poster here had told me that it was absolutely impossible to eat for 20 euors a person per meal in Rome unless we were living on pizza. Not true. Mostly that is just because we only ordered what we needed to eat, not succumbing to the reasoning that because we were in Italy we had to have an appetizer, a Primi piatti and a Secundo and a dessert. The most useful phrase, right up there with “il conte, per favore” (check, please) was “Una per due”—One serving for two people. Nobody blinks an eye when you request courses that way.
The food surprised me in other ways. I thought grilled vegetables were just an American trendy restaurant thing, but we found them on nearly all menus and always done very nicely. I thought white pizzas were a California thing, but nearly always we were given the option of having tomato sauce and the selections of pizza toppings were awesome. I loved the ones with fresh greens on top, for instance. We became addicted to gnocchi.
The gypsy women sitting by the street holding babies and looking pathetic were the most appalling beggars I have seen anywhere. What a way to use a baby! Pickpockets certainly had plenty of opportunity to try to prey on us on crowded buses and subways in Rome and Florence and packed vaporettos in Venice, but I guess we were lucky.
We would definitely like to go back—see the south, see the lake country, see more parts of Le Marche that we missed, try again to see highlights of Rome, spend a week roaming through Florence, checking out the Veneto north of Venice. An 18-day trip hardly made a dent!
Ciao.
Jun 18th, 2006, 02:18 PM
#27
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I loved Rome also and will not stay there for less than a week in the future - and doubt that even that will be enough!
And Florence - we went in February so much less crowded (although quite chilly, especially at night). We all absolutely loved it and look forward to going again.
As for Venice, I know you were pleased with your choice to stay in Mestre but do you think you would have like it more if you had stayed in Venice and been able to enjoy it after the day tourists had left? I only ask because that seems to be what many others who do love Venice have said.
And the beggars - what cracked me up were the little old (?) ladies totally bent over and wobbling along with a cup extended - all of them looking exactly the same and walking exactly the same!
Thanks for a great report!
Linda
And Florence - we went in February so much less crowded (although quite chilly, especially at night). We all absolutely loved it and look forward to going again.
As for Venice, I know you were pleased with your choice to stay in Mestre but do you think you would have like it more if you had stayed in Venice and been able to enjoy it after the day tourists had left? I only ask because that seems to be what many others who do love Venice have said.
And the beggars - what cracked me up were the little old (?) ladies totally bent over and wobbling along with a cup extended - all of them looking exactly the same and walking exactly the same!
Thanks for a great report!
Linda
Jun 18th, 2006, 02:59 PM
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Hello Vera, I saved this trip report of yours for what I knew would be a quiet Sunday afternoon. I have so enjoyed "travelling along with you" and listening to Italian CD's while reading your report.
Not feeling well..something that can happen to anyone while travelling..I am so sorry that illness kept you from seeing more of Rome.
I do hope you can return to Italy as it appears that you two enjoyed yourselves. And I also hope that during your next trip you will be able to visit the region of Veneto.
I think that you two would enjoy Veneto, especially your husband. It is serene and so beautiful.
Thank you for taking all the time to share your experiences in Italy. I thought of you while you were there. Best regards.
Not feeling well..something that can happen to anyone while travelling..I am so sorry that illness kept you from seeing more of Rome.
I do hope you can return to Italy as it appears that you two enjoyed yourselves. And I also hope that during your next trip you will be able to visit the region of Veneto.
I think that you two would enjoy Veneto, especially your husband. It is serene and so beautiful.
Thank you for taking all the time to share your experiences in Italy. I thought of you while you were there. Best regards.
Jun 18th, 2006, 03:46 PM
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LoveItaly: Glad you took the time to read the report. I know you were with me throughout the planning stages. When Grandson and fiance joined us in Venice, she, whom I had never met, was dressed like my twin. We both had white slacks, white shirts with turquoise overshirts. BUT I, having been to Florence and the street market, had a turquoise sheer scarf artfully tied around my neck. She said, "I must have a scarf just like Grandma." So our first assignment was to find a stall selling scarves in Venice. It was a great day.
Jun 18th, 2006, 03:49 PM
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LC: I have pondered the oft given advice that staying overnight in Venice gives you an oppportunity to see it after the day trippers leave. But I honestly don't think that couple of hours at the beginning and end of a day would have changed my opinion. I still would have been plowing through crowds during the day,standing on the vaporettos and running the gauntlet of shops.
Jun 18th, 2006, 04:13 PM
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Ciao Vera,
Enjoyed your report very much. We will be in Venice in Oct. and I just checked Hotel Bologna web site. The special early booking rate is listed as Eu 128.
How did you get the Eu 79.50? How far in advance did you book?
Thanks.
Joanne
Enjoyed your report very much. We will be in Venice in Oct. and I just checked Hotel Bologna web site. The special early booking rate is listed as Eu 128.
How did you get the Eu 79.50? How far in advance did you book?
Thanks.
Joanne
Jun 18th, 2006, 07:24 PM
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I booked Hotel Bologna in mid February, then kept watching the site and canceled and re-booked at a lower rate in March. I don't know how the October rates compare to May rates, but would think they would be somewhat comparable.
Since their cancellation policy is liberal, you can always book and cancel if you find something better.
Vera
Since their cancellation policy is liberal, you can always book and cancel if you find something better.
Vera
Jun 18th, 2006, 08:50 PM
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Hello Vera, it sounds like besides having a wonderful grandson you will have a beautiful grandaughter by marriage. All of you are so fortunate. Take care and my wishes that one of these days you will be a greatgrandmother!!
Jun 18th, 2006, 11:22 PM
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Vera, I enjoyed your report too. It's hard to know if a more central Venice hotel would have helped. Maybe what would help most, if you are ever so minded, is to visit Venice in the winter.
Also, with a hotel in Venice, you can stay in an uncrowded area, and explore from there, and not have to deal with crowds on the vaporetto first thing. Still, with the price you got, I certainly would have been tempted to stay in Mestre, and you got to see that side of Italian life too.
Also, with a hotel in Venice, you can stay in an uncrowded area, and explore from there, and not have to deal with crowds on the vaporetto first thing. Still, with the price you got, I certainly would have been tempted to stay in Mestre, and you got to see that side of Italian life too.
