Trip Report: Bellagio, Milan, Venice, Cinque Terre and Piedmont
Jul 6th, 2015, 09:10 AM
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Monday--Bellagio, Day 3
Monday, June 15
We woke up to the best weather so far, mostly sunny with blue skies and some low-hanging clouds. I have to admit, I woke up a few times and peeked outside to see if the sun was shining. Carol and I were really looking forward to seeing Bellagio in good weather, and we weren’t disappointed. The view over the lake was the best yet. We've been to a lot of beautiful places, and this ranks among the most-beautiful. It's so peaceful, even when the church bells ring (which is often).
We took it easy this morning, enjoying the view, and after another very good breakfast, drove into town (we didn’t want to be on the hotel’s shuttle schedule), where eagle-eyed Carol found a spot in the free lot down the street from the Hotel Belvedere. Then we caught the 11:40 ferry to Varenna and followed Rick Steve’s suggested walk. Varenna is much quieter than Bellagio and less touristy. It seems like a place where people live.
After stopping several times to take pictures, we decided to walk through the gardens at Villa Monastero. Lots of flowers and interesting trees and a great view to the tip of Bellagio and down the eastern leg of Lake Como. We stopped for a glass of wine at the guest house in the garden and saw that a conference was going on…a conference on nuclear energy!
We took our time then strolled back into town for lunch at Bar Il Molo. We were a bit reluctant to go here because we suspected that Rick Steves’ restaurant recommendations couldn’t be trusted, but it turned out to be a good choice. Beautiful view overlooking the tiny harbor. We had a small salad (one of our few salads on this tripe) and split very good mushroom risotto and two white beers. The bill came to 25 euros as Rick Steves redeemed himself (although I still think he’s a better tour guide than a restaurant critic).
We caught the 3:20 ferry back to Bellagio, walked up the steps to the top of town and bought a pair of Birkenstocks for me. The weather was hot, and I didn’t think I wanted to walk around in closed-toed shoes every day. This turned out to be a good decision, too.
After relaxing on our balcony and taking in the stunning views, we made the bad decision of going against the advice of the woman at the hotel desk and going to Aurora in Lezzeno for dinner (the young couple we’d sat next to the night before recommended it). Aurora was crowded with what seemed to be a lot of locals (good sign), and the view onto the lake was inviting, but the food was sub-par. Delicate, nicely prepared gnocchi ruined by a fishy sauce and filling. Carol’s Veal Milanese was tender but almost all bone with too much breading. A side of grilled veggies was a bit wimpy. We tried to salvage our half-eaten dinner with a pizza, but the mushrooms seemed canned and the cheese wasn't good. Add in so-so house white wine and we had our second disappointing dinner in three nights.
So, back to Borgo for more beautiful views of twinkling lights and criss-crossing ferries. We continue to be mesmerized by the view, and we’re very glad we stayed outside Bellagio rather than in-town.
Monday, June 15
We woke up to the best weather so far, mostly sunny with blue skies and some low-hanging clouds. I have to admit, I woke up a few times and peeked outside to see if the sun was shining. Carol and I were really looking forward to seeing Bellagio in good weather, and we weren’t disappointed. The view over the lake was the best yet. We've been to a lot of beautiful places, and this ranks among the most-beautiful. It's so peaceful, even when the church bells ring (which is often).
We took it easy this morning, enjoying the view, and after another very good breakfast, drove into town (we didn’t want to be on the hotel’s shuttle schedule), where eagle-eyed Carol found a spot in the free lot down the street from the Hotel Belvedere. Then we caught the 11:40 ferry to Varenna and followed Rick Steve’s suggested walk. Varenna is much quieter than Bellagio and less touristy. It seems like a place where people live.
After stopping several times to take pictures, we decided to walk through the gardens at Villa Monastero. Lots of flowers and interesting trees and a great view to the tip of Bellagio and down the eastern leg of Lake Como. We stopped for a glass of wine at the guest house in the garden and saw that a conference was going on…a conference on nuclear energy!
We took our time then strolled back into town for lunch at Bar Il Molo. We were a bit reluctant to go here because we suspected that Rick Steves’ restaurant recommendations couldn’t be trusted, but it turned out to be a good choice. Beautiful view overlooking the tiny harbor. We had a small salad (one of our few salads on this tripe) and split very good mushroom risotto and two white beers. The bill came to 25 euros as Rick Steves redeemed himself (although I still think he’s a better tour guide than a restaurant critic).
We caught the 3:20 ferry back to Bellagio, walked up the steps to the top of town and bought a pair of Birkenstocks for me. The weather was hot, and I didn’t think I wanted to walk around in closed-toed shoes every day. This turned out to be a good decision, too.
After relaxing on our balcony and taking in the stunning views, we made the bad decision of going against the advice of the woman at the hotel desk and going to Aurora in Lezzeno for dinner (the young couple we’d sat next to the night before recommended it). Aurora was crowded with what seemed to be a lot of locals (good sign), and the view onto the lake was inviting, but the food was sub-par. Delicate, nicely prepared gnocchi ruined by a fishy sauce and filling. Carol’s Veal Milanese was tender but almost all bone with too much breading. A side of grilled veggies was a bit wimpy. We tried to salvage our half-eaten dinner with a pizza, but the mushrooms seemed canned and the cheese wasn't good. Add in so-so house white wine and we had our second disappointing dinner in three nights.
So, back to Borgo for more beautiful views of twinkling lights and criss-crossing ferries. We continue to be mesmerized by the view, and we’re very glad we stayed outside Bellagio rather than in-town.
Jul 7th, 2015, 06:26 AM
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Tuesday 16
Milan Day 1
We made the drive to Milan down the east side of the Peninsula. I don't know why people say driving in Italy is so difficult. Drivers can be a little aggressive but at least you know what they're doing. My main concern was that we’d accidentally drive into a congestion zone in Milan, but that didn’t happen (the Hertz return was outside the zone, as was the gas station where we stopped to fill up).
We returned the car and managed to find our way to the Central Station after asking directions twice. We also had to deal with a shady guy in the Metro station but were helped by a nice woman.
I don’t think we’ve ever emerged from a subway station to a more impressive sight than the one that greeted us in Milan: our first look at the Duomo, the biggest cathedral I’ve ever seen. It’s huge beyond belief, gothic-looking, and it dominates a giant square. After gawking and taking pictures, we dragged our bags through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, which is just as impressive with it archways, domes, marble floor and high-end stores. Nicest shopping mall I’ve ever seen, no contest. We exited the Galleria for our first view of La Scala. From the outside, you’d never know it’s the most-famous opera house in the world, but for me, as an opera lover, seeing it was a thrill.
Hotel Star was a few minutes walk from La Scala. It has small, clean rooms and funky neon artwork above the beds. The only downsides were the tight quarters in the shower and that, at night, I could hear the subway from the fourth floor, but the hotel’s proximity to La Scala and price (100 euros a night pre-paid), plus the helpfulness and local knowledge of the woman behind desk, made it worthwhile. As for the view…it’s no Borgo Le Terraze. Instead, we got a view of someone’s home office. Thank goodness for excellent blackout shades.
After checking in, we walked to the Brera district along pretty cobblestone streets and into the old section of town, window-shopping along the way. Milan is surprisingly nice. We stopped for lunch at Il Kaimano on Via Fiori Chiari. I was looking forward to two things in Milan: opera and risotto, and the risotto at Il Kaimano did not disappoint. Carol was looking forward to the Osso Bucco, and it was tender and delicious. After an order of perfectly cooked spaghetti with mussels and clams, complimentary glasses of prosecco, a half liter of wine, the best tiramisu we’d ever had and a cup of cappuccino, we had our best meal of the trip...and we were in food comas. No problem. With the opera starting at eight and most restaurants not opening for dinner until 7:30, we didn’t think we’d eat again for the rest of the day.
By the way, we loved the slow pace of meals in Italy. Food comes out quickly–you’re never sitting around wondering if they forgot about you—but you never feel rushed, and you never, ever get the check without asking for it. There’s time to talk and enjoy and look around and just relax. The ladies handbag shop across the street from Kaimano changed its window display three times while we were eating. By the way, if you ever go to a restaurant in Italy or anywhere else and they don’t tell you that the risotto will take at least 20 minutes, either order something else or find another restaurant.
We rested, got dressed and strolled over to La Scala early to check out the scene. Most people were very dressed up; some of the women were in gowns. We did see a few men in jeans. Inside, La Scala is much smaller than most other opera houses we’ve been to, but it’s ornate and beautiful in a fancy whorehouse kind of way. It’s very red. Six rings of boxes with red seats and gold edging soar sky-high.
The opera was Carmen, and we sat in Row L of the orchestra near the center. Great view, but I was surprised by the distant, muted acoustics. That was disappointing, but the thrill of being in La Scala outweighed everything else. During the performance, I kept looking around, not believing we were there. An outstanding performance by Anita Rachvelishvili, the best Carmen I’ve ever heard, added to a memorable night, although in all honesty, the show could’ve been 3D Muppets and I would’ve been happy to be in La Scala.
The opera ended after 11, so we walked to the Galleria and stopped at a small pizzeria (near the McDonald’s) for a very good slice of thick pizza, fresh out of the oven, and beer. The Galleria is beautiful at night (and much less-crowded than it was in the daytime), all lit up, sound echoing, as is the Duomo. It’s really magnificent.
On our way back to the hotel, we passed the stage entrance to La Scala and saw Carmen standing outside. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to tell her how great she was. Then back to our hotel, loving Milan. Any day that includes the best risotto and osso bucco you’ve ever had and your first opera at La Scala is certainly a great one.
Milan Day 1
We made the drive to Milan down the east side of the Peninsula. I don't know why people say driving in Italy is so difficult. Drivers can be a little aggressive but at least you know what they're doing. My main concern was that we’d accidentally drive into a congestion zone in Milan, but that didn’t happen (the Hertz return was outside the zone, as was the gas station where we stopped to fill up).
We returned the car and managed to find our way to the Central Station after asking directions twice. We also had to deal with a shady guy in the Metro station but were helped by a nice woman.
I don’t think we’ve ever emerged from a subway station to a more impressive sight than the one that greeted us in Milan: our first look at the Duomo, the biggest cathedral I’ve ever seen. It’s huge beyond belief, gothic-looking, and it dominates a giant square. After gawking and taking pictures, we dragged our bags through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, which is just as impressive with it archways, domes, marble floor and high-end stores. Nicest shopping mall I’ve ever seen, no contest. We exited the Galleria for our first view of La Scala. From the outside, you’d never know it’s the most-famous opera house in the world, but for me, as an opera lover, seeing it was a thrill.
Hotel Star was a few minutes walk from La Scala. It has small, clean rooms and funky neon artwork above the beds. The only downsides were the tight quarters in the shower and that, at night, I could hear the subway from the fourth floor, but the hotel’s proximity to La Scala and price (100 euros a night pre-paid), plus the helpfulness and local knowledge of the woman behind desk, made it worthwhile. As for the view…it’s no Borgo Le Terraze. Instead, we got a view of someone’s home office. Thank goodness for excellent blackout shades.
After checking in, we walked to the Brera district along pretty cobblestone streets and into the old section of town, window-shopping along the way. Milan is surprisingly nice. We stopped for lunch at Il Kaimano on Via Fiori Chiari. I was looking forward to two things in Milan: opera and risotto, and the risotto at Il Kaimano did not disappoint. Carol was looking forward to the Osso Bucco, and it was tender and delicious. After an order of perfectly cooked spaghetti with mussels and clams, complimentary glasses of prosecco, a half liter of wine, the best tiramisu we’d ever had and a cup of cappuccino, we had our best meal of the trip...and we were in food comas. No problem. With the opera starting at eight and most restaurants not opening for dinner until 7:30, we didn’t think we’d eat again for the rest of the day.
By the way, we loved the slow pace of meals in Italy. Food comes out quickly–you’re never sitting around wondering if they forgot about you—but you never feel rushed, and you never, ever get the check without asking for it. There’s time to talk and enjoy and look around and just relax. The ladies handbag shop across the street from Kaimano changed its window display three times while we were eating. By the way, if you ever go to a restaurant in Italy or anywhere else and they don’t tell you that the risotto will take at least 20 minutes, either order something else or find another restaurant.
We rested, got dressed and strolled over to La Scala early to check out the scene. Most people were very dressed up; some of the women were in gowns. We did see a few men in jeans. Inside, La Scala is much smaller than most other opera houses we’ve been to, but it’s ornate and beautiful in a fancy whorehouse kind of way. It’s very red. Six rings of boxes with red seats and gold edging soar sky-high.
The opera was Carmen, and we sat in Row L of the orchestra near the center. Great view, but I was surprised by the distant, muted acoustics. That was disappointing, but the thrill of being in La Scala outweighed everything else. During the performance, I kept looking around, not believing we were there. An outstanding performance by Anita Rachvelishvili, the best Carmen I’ve ever heard, added to a memorable night, although in all honesty, the show could’ve been 3D Muppets and I would’ve been happy to be in La Scala.
The opera ended after 11, so we walked to the Galleria and stopped at a small pizzeria (near the McDonald’s) for a very good slice of thick pizza, fresh out of the oven, and beer. The Galleria is beautiful at night (and much less-crowded than it was in the daytime), all lit up, sound echoing, as is the Duomo. It’s really magnificent.
On our way back to the hotel, we passed the stage entrance to La Scala and saw Carmen standing outside. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to tell her how great she was. Then back to our hotel, loving Milan. Any day that includes the best risotto and osso bucco you’ve ever had and your first opera at La Scala is certainly a great one.
Jul 7th, 2015, 07:32 AM
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I've been following along and enjoying all of your experiences.
We will be in Milan for 2 nights at the end of our trip in Sept/Oct. Do you mind sharing the approx price of your meal at Il Kaimano? It sounds lovely and since it will be our last night in Italy might be perfect for us. We are staying in an airbnb in Brera and it sounds like this restaurant is in that area? Can't wait to hear about your CT experience as we have 4 nights there at the beginning of our trip.
Thanks so much for sharing your travels.
We will be in Milan for 2 nights at the end of our trip in Sept/Oct. Do you mind sharing the approx price of your meal at Il Kaimano? It sounds lovely and since it will be our last night in Italy might be perfect for us. We are staying in an airbnb in Brera and it sounds like this restaurant is in that area? Can't wait to hear about your CT experience as we have 4 nights there at the beginning of our trip.
Thanks so much for sharing your travels.
Jul 7th, 2015, 08:18 AM
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Hi, Cpelk. Kaimano was 45 euros, which is a real bargain. Trattoria Milanese, which we went to the next day, is better but considerably more expensive, and I don't think it has outdoor seating. Kaimano is in Brera. We had trouble finding it, but I don't remember why. Kaimano and Trattoria Milanese have very similar, traditional food.
I loved Cinque Terre. My wife liked it a lot.
I loved Cinque Terre. My wife liked it a lot.
Jul 7th, 2015, 06:08 PM
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What a nice trip! I loved driving in Italy - especially driving a powerful manual 6 speed on those hilly, winding roads. We liked Bellagio the most on our trip and we were surprised at how much we liked our two days in Milan. But we shouldn't have been surprised - the Duomo, the Last Supper and La Scala are fantastic. Looking forward to more.
Jul 7th, 2015, 06:24 PM
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Agree that the views of Lake Como are stunningly beautiful! When we stayed in Bellagio, we parked the car & it never moved from its spot until we left. The ferries were a great way to go from town to town. How far was it from Borgo to Bellagio?
Reading your stories about Milan with interest. We are thinking about starting our next trip to Italy there.
Enjoying your TR very much!
Reading your stories about Milan with interest. We are thinking about starting our next trip to Italy there.
Enjoying your TR very much!
Jul 7th, 2015, 07:13 PM
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I just joined this site to get inspiration for a trip to Europe in September. I have been to various parts of Italy on three different trips, and am trying to choose another country(ies), but Italy is hard to resist! Your posts make it harder to choose!
To your experience in Lake Como, I'd like to add that I found Varenna a serene place to stay. As you noticed, it was less touristy and felt more local. We did our day excursion to Bellagio for a change of scene.
Also, for anyone considering Lake Como and looking for a destination from there, we traveled from Varenna to the Alps via train. Stayed in Wengen, Switzerland and enjoyed spectacular beauty. Just one gorgeous place after another!
To your experience in Lake Como, I'd like to add that I found Varenna a serene place to stay. As you noticed, it was less touristy and felt more local. We did our day excursion to Bellagio for a change of scene.
Also, for anyone considering Lake Como and looking for a destination from there, we traveled from Varenna to the Alps via train. Stayed in Wengen, Switzerland and enjoyed spectacular beauty. Just one gorgeous place after another!
Jul 8th, 2015, 05:18 AM
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Wednesday 17
Milan Day 2
I guess sometimes the things you want most can be hard to get and the things you don’t care much about can drop into your lap. That’s how it was with tickets to The Last Supper. Carol and I were indifferent about seeing it,but back in March or April when tickets went on sale for June, I dropped by the official website to see what was available, saw tickets for one of the days we were going to be in Milan and decided to buy them.
Both of us, especially Carol, were glad we did. On our hottest morning yet, we made the short walk from out hotel to the Church of Santa Marie delle Grazie, picked up our tickets (this is something you have to do at least 20 minutes before your specified time or they’ll sell them), waited for our appointed time and then were granted access.
The Last Supper, which takes up an entire wall at one end of the refectory, is an impressive sight, made even more impressive when you realize that da Vinci was standing right at that wall, doing is work. Carol is not religious, but the painting brought her to tears. We both were amused by the fact that somebody had built a door where Christ’s feet were supposed to be.
We went without a guide, but the literature handed out was helpful, as was the English-speaking tour guide who we overheard.
When our 15 minutes were up, we exited through the gift shop (of course) and walked to Parco Sempione, which is Milan’s central park with the Arch of Peace (Milan’s version of the Arc de Triomphe) on one end and Sforza Castle at the other. This is a beautiful, peaceful park with lots of trees and a pond that seems to be a popular spot for ducks, turtles and fish. A great place for leisurely strolling. Then we set out to find Trattoria Milanese, the one restaurant we most wanted to eat at while in Milan.
Finding it was not easy. We asked directions several times and finally had to resort to my phone’s GPS before finding the restaurant. (This was the Trattoria Milanese on Via Santa Marta.) Milan, arranged in concentric circles, can be difficult to navigate.
Trattoria Milanese is a quaint restaurant with communal tables and walls lined with bottles of wine. It clearly attracts a local clientele (waiters spoke to the diners as if they were friends; people seemed to have regular spots), but the waiters are friendly to the non-locals, too. We ordered Risotto Milanese with osso bucco and veal scallopini with marsala and wine, and when the waiter informed us that the risotto would take 20 minutes to a half hour (a very good sign), we also sprung for the antipasto, hand-selected by the waiter (I guess we should have told him what we wanted). While waiting, we sipped a pretty good half-liter of Rose. It was hot outside and we needed something cool!
The tender osso bucco and creamy yellow rice risotto were both spectacular, eclipsing even yesterday’s at Kaimano, and, combined with the fork-tender veal scallopini, made this the best Italian meal we’ve ever had. It was capped off by unbelievably light and creamy tiramisu, as if we really needed dessert. Add a glass of red wine and a cup of cappuccino, a few bottles of water and we had a great but expensive lunch (90 euros). Other than our lunch in Modena (which was in another class entirely), it would be our best meal until our final three days in Piedmonth.
Now in a food coma after our two-hour feast, we walked to the Duomo (and paid for tickets; for the only time on the trip, the cashier, without asking, did the euro conversion, which was not to our advantage. Do not let people do this! Also, when withdrawing money from ATMs, do so in euros. Don’t let the ATM do the conversion). The inside of the Duomo is cavernous with giant columns and high ceilings. Supposedly, it can hold 40,000 people, at one time the population of Milan. The inside of the Duomo is not beautiful; it’s massive, awe-inspiring.
Then we took the lift to the roof, where the views of Milan are impressive but the views of the church spires themselves are even more impressive. You can feel really small up there as you wander around.
We sat down for a few minutes to take in the scene in the Duomo square then walked over to Peck to see this gourmet deli and its collection of cheese and meats. We didn’t buy anything (other than a little package of macaroons) because we were still overstuffed. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for pedicures (and a manicure for Carol) at an Asian nail salon. Then back to the hotel to rest before the opera.
Off to Night 2 at La Scala! We stopped at a bar near La Scala (I don’t recall which one) for prosecco, then it was on to the opera house for the Italian double-bill of Cavalleria Rusticana and Pagliacci. These are not my favorite operas (I hadn’t seen either in over 20 years), but I was excited to see Italian operas in an Italian opera house, and I was even more excited about our seats: Box 17, front row, of the second ring of boxes, two over from the center box. From here, as opposed to our seats in the orchestra the night before, the acoustics were perfect, orchestra and voices blending beautifully. Maybe the La Scala orchestra and chorus are more comfortable with Italian opera than with French because both sounded a lot better than they had the night before.
By the way, the people sitting behind us in the box said they had a full view of the stage. The people in the second row of the boxes sit on backless stools. The people in the third row sit on what look like high bar chairs. La Scala has sub-title screens at each seat (like at the Met in New York), and the titles are in English or Italian. But the boxes have only three screens across the front, so if you’re in the second or third row, you might be out of luck (or at the mercy of the people sitting in the front row). Also, the boxes are much warmer and stuffier than the orchestra.
The myth of impossible-to-get La Scala seats was smashed on this night. There were a lot of empty seats in the orchestra. Nonetheless, both performances were very good and rewarded with long ovations (although no standing ovations; standing ovations are very hard to get in European opera houses), and I enjoyed the experience of seeing Italian opera in an Italian opera house. Carol enjoyed it, too, despite the discomfort of the boxes.
After more pizza and beer at the same place in the Galleria as the night before, we returned to our room to pack and go to sleep after a full day in Milan, a really wonderful city.
Milan Day 2
I guess sometimes the things you want most can be hard to get and the things you don’t care much about can drop into your lap. That’s how it was with tickets to The Last Supper. Carol and I were indifferent about seeing it,but back in March or April when tickets went on sale for June, I dropped by the official website to see what was available, saw tickets for one of the days we were going to be in Milan and decided to buy them.
Both of us, especially Carol, were glad we did. On our hottest morning yet, we made the short walk from out hotel to the Church of Santa Marie delle Grazie, picked up our tickets (this is something you have to do at least 20 minutes before your specified time or they’ll sell them), waited for our appointed time and then were granted access.
The Last Supper, which takes up an entire wall at one end of the refectory, is an impressive sight, made even more impressive when you realize that da Vinci was standing right at that wall, doing is work. Carol is not religious, but the painting brought her to tears. We both were amused by the fact that somebody had built a door where Christ’s feet were supposed to be.
We went without a guide, but the literature handed out was helpful, as was the English-speaking tour guide who we overheard.
When our 15 minutes were up, we exited through the gift shop (of course) and walked to Parco Sempione, which is Milan’s central park with the Arch of Peace (Milan’s version of the Arc de Triomphe) on one end and Sforza Castle at the other. This is a beautiful, peaceful park with lots of trees and a pond that seems to be a popular spot for ducks, turtles and fish. A great place for leisurely strolling. Then we set out to find Trattoria Milanese, the one restaurant we most wanted to eat at while in Milan.
Finding it was not easy. We asked directions several times and finally had to resort to my phone’s GPS before finding the restaurant. (This was the Trattoria Milanese on Via Santa Marta.) Milan, arranged in concentric circles, can be difficult to navigate.
Trattoria Milanese is a quaint restaurant with communal tables and walls lined with bottles of wine. It clearly attracts a local clientele (waiters spoke to the diners as if they were friends; people seemed to have regular spots), but the waiters are friendly to the non-locals, too. We ordered Risotto Milanese with osso bucco and veal scallopini with marsala and wine, and when the waiter informed us that the risotto would take 20 minutes to a half hour (a very good sign), we also sprung for the antipasto, hand-selected by the waiter (I guess we should have told him what we wanted). While waiting, we sipped a pretty good half-liter of Rose. It was hot outside and we needed something cool!
The tender osso bucco and creamy yellow rice risotto were both spectacular, eclipsing even yesterday’s at Kaimano, and, combined with the fork-tender veal scallopini, made this the best Italian meal we’ve ever had. It was capped off by unbelievably light and creamy tiramisu, as if we really needed dessert. Add a glass of red wine and a cup of cappuccino, a few bottles of water and we had a great but expensive lunch (90 euros). Other than our lunch in Modena (which was in another class entirely), it would be our best meal until our final three days in Piedmonth.
Now in a food coma after our two-hour feast, we walked to the Duomo (and paid for tickets; for the only time on the trip, the cashier, without asking, did the euro conversion, which was not to our advantage. Do not let people do this! Also, when withdrawing money from ATMs, do so in euros. Don’t let the ATM do the conversion). The inside of the Duomo is cavernous with giant columns and high ceilings. Supposedly, it can hold 40,000 people, at one time the population of Milan. The inside of the Duomo is not beautiful; it’s massive, awe-inspiring.
Then we took the lift to the roof, where the views of Milan are impressive but the views of the church spires themselves are even more impressive. You can feel really small up there as you wander around.
We sat down for a few minutes to take in the scene in the Duomo square then walked over to Peck to see this gourmet deli and its collection of cheese and meats. We didn’t buy anything (other than a little package of macaroons) because we were still overstuffed. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for pedicures (and a manicure for Carol) at an Asian nail salon. Then back to the hotel to rest before the opera.
Off to Night 2 at La Scala! We stopped at a bar near La Scala (I don’t recall which one) for prosecco, then it was on to the opera house for the Italian double-bill of Cavalleria Rusticana and Pagliacci. These are not my favorite operas (I hadn’t seen either in over 20 years), but I was excited to see Italian operas in an Italian opera house, and I was even more excited about our seats: Box 17, front row, of the second ring of boxes, two over from the center box. From here, as opposed to our seats in the orchestra the night before, the acoustics were perfect, orchestra and voices blending beautifully. Maybe the La Scala orchestra and chorus are more comfortable with Italian opera than with French because both sounded a lot better than they had the night before.
By the way, the people sitting behind us in the box said they had a full view of the stage. The people in the second row of the boxes sit on backless stools. The people in the third row sit on what look like high bar chairs. La Scala has sub-title screens at each seat (like at the Met in New York), and the titles are in English or Italian. But the boxes have only three screens across the front, so if you’re in the second or third row, you might be out of luck (or at the mercy of the people sitting in the front row). Also, the boxes are much warmer and stuffier than the orchestra.
The myth of impossible-to-get La Scala seats was smashed on this night. There were a lot of empty seats in the orchestra. Nonetheless, both performances were very good and rewarded with long ovations (although no standing ovations; standing ovations are very hard to get in European opera houses), and I enjoyed the experience of seeing Italian opera in an Italian opera house. Carol enjoyed it, too, despite the discomfort of the boxes.
After more pizza and beer at the same place in the Galleria as the night before, we returned to our room to pack and go to sleep after a full day in Milan, a really wonderful city.
Jul 9th, 2015, 05:17 AM
#32
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Thursday 18
Venice Day 1
We got up early for the train to Venice (we bought tickets way in advance and were locked-in to a 9:05 a.m. departure). We were really surprised by how smoothly things had gone so far. With five cities in two weeks, we figured something would go wrong along the way, but so far, nothing. We were both a little sorry to leave Milan. We easily could've spent another day here, maybe gone to the Expo, had some more risotto and osso bucco, but going to Venice is very exciting. I feel as if we're going to a place unlike any we've been to before.
Getting to Central Station by subway was easy (although there were a lot of stairs), and Central Station is very easy to navigate and well laid out. The train ride to Venice was uneventful and through mostly unremarkable countryside. We arrive at Santa Lucia shortly before noon and embarked on the 20-minute walk to B&B Sandra, following Sandra’s very detailed directions over six bridges, happier than ever that we packed light (but now wishing we’d packed even lighter; as we’d been told, all of the bridges have steps; I think only one had a ramp).
The first view of Venice from the train station is not impressive, and the walk to the Cannaregio district took us through some very touristy areas. B&B Sandra is not in one of those areas. It’s tucked away in Corte Trapolin on a quiet canal, not far from the Grand Canal in distance but miles away when it comes to quiet and feel. We carried our bags to the fifth floor and were greeted by Sandra and Leonardo, the owners of the bed and breakfast and two of the nicest, most-helpful people you could hope to meet. Their home is beautiful. Tastefully furnished. Very warm and welcoming.
Our room was unusual: The “Suite on the Roof,” as they call it, which is a converted attic with its own, private, rooftop “Altana.” The room was very nice (although a bit claustrophobic because of the low ceilings in places), but the altana, with its views over Venice and to the Grand Canal, was the highlight and where we would spend a lot of our time.
We were hungry, so Sandra pointed us to Fondamenta Misericordia, a street lines with bars, restaurants and small shops. We had lunch at Ristorante Diana and ate outside along the canal, sipping wine and eating delicious spaghetti with mussels and clams in red sauce, watching the motor boats pass by, taking in the sounds and sights of this quiet area of Venice. Very enjoyable.
Now that I look back upon my notes, our meals in Venice were a lot better than I recalled. Diana was delicious and so was the place where we had dinner that night.
Lunch was pleasant. The rest of our afternoon wasn’t. We set out in the direction of Piazza San Marco, stopped for so-so gelato at Grom, which seems to be a chain, and then waded through tourist hell to St. Mark’s. It was a maze-like walk that seemed to take us past every tourist and souvenir shop in Venice, and by the time we arrived at St. Mark’s—relieved to be off the claustrophobic side streets and into this gigantic square–we were wondering how many more days of Venice we could take. This had always been our concern about Venice, that it would be too crowded and touristy, and we decided right then to avoid the crowded areas as much as possible and try to get lost in Venice.
But it was getting late, so after walking around the square for a while (and getting our first look at the unimpressive Bridge of Sighs, which we’d wanted to see since reading Richard Russo’s novel), we bought a three-day vaporetto pass and took the jam-packed water bus from San Marco to San Marcuola, unable to enjoy the sights because the vaporetto was so crowded. We got off, passed the casino where Richard Wagner died and walked to Fondamenta Misericordia in search of a wine shop.
Here’s how Venice was for us on this day and, as it turned out, for the next three days: One minute we’d be on crowded streets and hating Venice. Then we’d turn off the street and find ourselves all alone in an alley or alongside a hidden canal and loving Venice. This wine store had us loving Venice. The woman who owned the tiny shop couldn’t have been nicer, and she was happy to explain how the bulk wine worked: She had seven varieties in giant vats, and you could buy as much as you wanted. We ended up filling a liter-and-a-half water bottle with very drinkable Cabarnet Sauvignon…for less than three euros! This water bottle of wine would join us for many hours on our altana.
And a bonus: After chatting with the woman for about a half hour, we earned our first “Ciao!” of Venice. Hey, we were living like locals!
We went back to our room to drink some of our new wine on the altana, took in the sights (now loving Venice) and headed off for our nine o’clock dinner reservation (made by Sandra, thank you) at Osteria L’Orto dei Mori on a small square, Campo dei Mori. We dined outside in the square on a beautiful, warm evening, and I wish I remembered what we had (fagotti? Something with veal? Something with fish? Definitely wine), but it was all very good and decently priced for the quality (59 euros)
Then back to our room after an educational and mostly enjoyable day in Venice, vowing that tomorrow would be different.
Venice Day 1
We got up early for the train to Venice (we bought tickets way in advance and were locked-in to a 9:05 a.m. departure). We were really surprised by how smoothly things had gone so far. With five cities in two weeks, we figured something would go wrong along the way, but so far, nothing. We were both a little sorry to leave Milan. We easily could've spent another day here, maybe gone to the Expo, had some more risotto and osso bucco, but going to Venice is very exciting. I feel as if we're going to a place unlike any we've been to before.
Getting to Central Station by subway was easy (although there were a lot of stairs), and Central Station is very easy to navigate and well laid out. The train ride to Venice was uneventful and through mostly unremarkable countryside. We arrive at Santa Lucia shortly before noon and embarked on the 20-minute walk to B&B Sandra, following Sandra’s very detailed directions over six bridges, happier than ever that we packed light (but now wishing we’d packed even lighter; as we’d been told, all of the bridges have steps; I think only one had a ramp).
The first view of Venice from the train station is not impressive, and the walk to the Cannaregio district took us through some very touristy areas. B&B Sandra is not in one of those areas. It’s tucked away in Corte Trapolin on a quiet canal, not far from the Grand Canal in distance but miles away when it comes to quiet and feel. We carried our bags to the fifth floor and were greeted by Sandra and Leonardo, the owners of the bed and breakfast and two of the nicest, most-helpful people you could hope to meet. Their home is beautiful. Tastefully furnished. Very warm and welcoming.
Our room was unusual: The “Suite on the Roof,” as they call it, which is a converted attic with its own, private, rooftop “Altana.” The room was very nice (although a bit claustrophobic because of the low ceilings in places), but the altana, with its views over Venice and to the Grand Canal, was the highlight and where we would spend a lot of our time.
We were hungry, so Sandra pointed us to Fondamenta Misericordia, a street lines with bars, restaurants and small shops. We had lunch at Ristorante Diana and ate outside along the canal, sipping wine and eating delicious spaghetti with mussels and clams in red sauce, watching the motor boats pass by, taking in the sounds and sights of this quiet area of Venice. Very enjoyable.
Now that I look back upon my notes, our meals in Venice were a lot better than I recalled. Diana was delicious and so was the place where we had dinner that night.
Lunch was pleasant. The rest of our afternoon wasn’t. We set out in the direction of Piazza San Marco, stopped for so-so gelato at Grom, which seems to be a chain, and then waded through tourist hell to St. Mark’s. It was a maze-like walk that seemed to take us past every tourist and souvenir shop in Venice, and by the time we arrived at St. Mark’s—relieved to be off the claustrophobic side streets and into this gigantic square–we were wondering how many more days of Venice we could take. This had always been our concern about Venice, that it would be too crowded and touristy, and we decided right then to avoid the crowded areas as much as possible and try to get lost in Venice.
But it was getting late, so after walking around the square for a while (and getting our first look at the unimpressive Bridge of Sighs, which we’d wanted to see since reading Richard Russo’s novel), we bought a three-day vaporetto pass and took the jam-packed water bus from San Marco to San Marcuola, unable to enjoy the sights because the vaporetto was so crowded. We got off, passed the casino where Richard Wagner died and walked to Fondamenta Misericordia in search of a wine shop.
Here’s how Venice was for us on this day and, as it turned out, for the next three days: One minute we’d be on crowded streets and hating Venice. Then we’d turn off the street and find ourselves all alone in an alley or alongside a hidden canal and loving Venice. This wine store had us loving Venice. The woman who owned the tiny shop couldn’t have been nicer, and she was happy to explain how the bulk wine worked: She had seven varieties in giant vats, and you could buy as much as you wanted. We ended up filling a liter-and-a-half water bottle with very drinkable Cabarnet Sauvignon…for less than three euros! This water bottle of wine would join us for many hours on our altana.
And a bonus: After chatting with the woman for about a half hour, we earned our first “Ciao!” of Venice. Hey, we were living like locals!
We went back to our room to drink some of our new wine on the altana, took in the sights (now loving Venice) and headed off for our nine o’clock dinner reservation (made by Sandra, thank you) at Osteria L’Orto dei Mori on a small square, Campo dei Mori. We dined outside in the square on a beautiful, warm evening, and I wish I remembered what we had (fagotti? Something with veal? Something with fish? Definitely wine), but it was all very good and decently priced for the quality (59 euros)
Then back to our room after an educational and mostly enjoyable day in Venice, vowing that tomorrow would be different.
Jul 9th, 2015, 05:31 AM
#33
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Thanks for the Milan tips -- we've been there several times, but there's always more to discover. We're going back in September for a few days and will be staying in the Brera neighborhood, so will give Kaimano a try!
Jul 9th, 2015, 07:15 AM
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Enjoying your adventure! Would appreciate some more details about La Scala as we are looking at buying tickets for October. We would like to get box seats and after reading your details, we would have to get front row of the box. No way I will sit on a backless stool! I have a fear of heights and vertigo if it is too high. Is it a steep incline to the boxes? What level would you suggest is the best view without being at a scary height? TIA
Jul 9th, 2015, 07:25 AM
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abqdeb: Thanks! I've only been to La Scala the two times I mentioned in my trip report. I would definitely sit in a box, not the orchestra. The first level of boxes seems too low and probably lacks the acoustical and visual advantages of being higher. The second level, where we sat the second night, was perfect. The third level would be fine, too. Then I think it starts getting too high (although I'm sure the sound gets better). The individual boxes aren't inclined at all. The levels of boxes are stacked on top of each other.
La Scala has unusual pricing: the entire orchestra and the first row of all the boxes on all levels (except for the galleries) are the same price (I think it was 270 or 280 euros each with all services charges). That's the thing about La Scala: The only real good, unobstructed seats in the house are all the top price. And the seats in the fourth ring are as expensive as the seats in the first ring. The cheaper seats are further back in the boxes.
Make sure you sit as close to the center box as possible (probably not more than four off on either side) to avoid obstructed views even from the front row.
That's all I know. Maybe someone else has a better idea of the higher-up seats. That being said, La Scala is about a third of the size of the Met. I'm guessing that even in the gallery, you're a lot lower than you'd be in the balcony at the Met, and the back of the orchestra at La Scala is probably the equivalent of mid-orchestra at the Met.
La Scala has unusual pricing: the entire orchestra and the first row of all the boxes on all levels (except for the galleries) are the same price (I think it was 270 or 280 euros each with all services charges). That's the thing about La Scala: The only real good, unobstructed seats in the house are all the top price. And the seats in the fourth ring are as expensive as the seats in the first ring. The cheaper seats are further back in the boxes.
Make sure you sit as close to the center box as possible (probably not more than four off on either side) to avoid obstructed views even from the front row.
That's all I know. Maybe someone else has a better idea of the higher-up seats. That being said, La Scala is about a third of the size of the Met. I'm guessing that even in the gallery, you're a lot lower than you'd be in the balcony at the Met, and the back of the orchestra at La Scala is probably the equivalent of mid-orchestra at the Met.
Jul 9th, 2015, 08:38 AM
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<< The first view of Venice from the train station is not impressive >>
Exiting Santa Lucia station, I found the view of Venice mindblowing. I'm really surprised you didn't like it.
I get the impression you weren't very enthusiastic about going to Venice and that colored your first view of the place. It's too bad Venice is so crowded these days.
I'm anxious to hear more about your time in Venice and the rest of the trip. If Venice was crowded, what about the Cinque Terre?
Exiting Santa Lucia station, I found the view of Venice mindblowing. I'm really surprised you didn't like it.
I get the impression you weren't very enthusiastic about going to Venice and that colored your first view of the place. It's too bad Venice is so crowded these days.
I'm anxious to hear more about your time in Venice and the rest of the trip. If Venice was crowded, what about the Cinque Terre?
Jul 9th, 2015, 08:47 AM
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Mimar: You might be right that our view of Venice was colored at first. We ended up liking very much and found it to be incredibly beautiful at night. I'd love to go back but for much longer, maybe two weeks, and just explore and take it in at a relaxed place. I got the impression that Venice is the kind of place that needs to be enjoyed slowly.
We purposely went to Cinque Terre during the week rather than on a weekend. It was not as crowded as I expected.
We purposely went to Cinque Terre during the week rather than on a weekend. It was not as crowded as I expected.
Jul 9th, 2015, 10:56 AM
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Thanks DaveTroy. That is more money than we wanted to spend, so we may have to just buck up and settle for cheaper seats. The photos of La Scala make it look so grand, so it's hard to get an idea of how large the place really is.
Jul 9th, 2015, 04:39 PM
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Love, love, love your report. Brings back so many memories of trips my husband and I made that covered the same ground.
We didn't plan it… but one trip turned into an "opera" trip.(We're Met subscribers -
La Fenice in Venice with Sam Ramey in the premier performance of Attila. Then we lucked into tickets at La Scala.. a Pelleas with Frederica von Stada, Claudio Abbado…..seats were in the first box in the first tier. Fortunately,we got there first and got the two front seats. People in the two behind us left after the first act because they couldn't see. Actually, one of those, an older man from Milan who had lived in NYC, squeezed in beside us for the rest of the performance. He was charming.. his final comment on the opera…."she died too slow."
As you can tell from the performers mentioned… we're not exactly youngsters.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
We didn't plan it… but one trip turned into an "opera" trip.(We're Met subscribers -
La Fenice in Venice with Sam Ramey in the premier performance of Attila. Then we lucked into tickets at La Scala.. a Pelleas with Frederica von Stada, Claudio Abbado…..seats were in the first box in the first tier. Fortunately,we got there first and got the two front seats. People in the two behind us left after the first act because they couldn't see. Actually, one of those, an older man from Milan who had lived in NYC, squeezed in beside us for the rest of the performance. He was charming.. his final comment on the opera…."she died too slow."As you can tell from the performers mentioned… we're not exactly youngsters.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Jul 10th, 2015, 03:51 AM
#40
and I was even more excited about our seats: Box 17, front row, of the second ring of boxes, two over from the center box. From here, as opposed to our seats in the orchestra the night before, the acoustics were perfect, orchestra and voices blending beautifully. >>
you had much better luck [or judgement!] when we saw these two operas together in Madrid. They had warned us that there was some restricted vision, but not that we would be unable to see one half of the stage completely. The TV screen set up opposite us so we could view the action we were missing hardly helped, however the fantastic voice of the canadian who sang Pagliacci made up for this entirely.
<<The first view of Venice from the train station is not impressive>>
having been lucky enough to get our first view of Venice 30 or so years ago we had a very different impression, even in July - my old photos show the Grand Canal more or less deserted - and though it was busy round san Marco I don't remember its being crowded or uncomfortable. Despite the crowds when I've been since, nothing has been able to dim my love for it, and as you say, if you get away from the main "drag" and tourist hotspots, you can soon escape the heathen hords. And it is certainly a place to savour, like a fine wine, rather than to race through like a can of coke!
you had much better luck [or judgement!] when we saw these two operas together in Madrid. They had warned us that there was some restricted vision, but not that we would be unable to see one half of the stage completely. The TV screen set up opposite us so we could view the action we were missing hardly helped, however the fantastic voice of the canadian who sang Pagliacci made up for this entirely.
<<The first view of Venice from the train station is not impressive>>
having been lucky enough to get our first view of Venice 30 or so years ago we had a very different impression, even in July - my old photos show the Grand Canal more or less deserted - and though it was busy round san Marco I don't remember its being crowded or uncomfortable. Despite the crowds when I've been since, nothing has been able to dim my love for it, and as you say, if you get away from the main "drag" and tourist hotspots, you can soon escape the heathen hords. And it is certainly a place to savour, like a fine wine, rather than to race through like a can of coke!
