Hi ShshieZ. I have been waiting for the rest of your trip report because I could tell from the title that you really were not fond of Lisbon which is a shame.

I think when you visit this city as a tourist it is important to carefully pick where you stay. Up on the hill by the castelo you can come across some fantastic views but you ran into the major problem staying there. It is uphill and presents problems with luggage and just going out for a stroll. I am glad the hotel is nice as I have heard good things about it. A friend of mine stayed away from the main area and wasn't happy with her location either as she felt isolated.

It can be very hot in Lisbon and going up and down just to get to your rooms besides up and down touring can wear you down.

Maybe Lisbon is a place you either love or not. We have been three times and would return in a hearbeat. But it isn't for everyone.

I would say to give it another chance in the future. But I am glad you enjoyed the rest of your trip.

Hi Sher - I'm very particular when I book hotels and do a lot of research before I make a reservation. I did realize about two weeks before we left that the location wasn't a good one but I don't like to cancel a reservation on such short notice. Although I don't think I will be returning to Lisbon, I would like to return to Portugal and see Evora (and surrounding area) Porto and the Algarve. And to return to Madeira would be wonderful.

I'm sorry you didn't care for Lisbon - it's one of my favorite cities. But then many people love Prague, and I don't, so no accounting for taste. I did look up your hotel, and I certainly wouldn't choose to stay there - I usually stay just off the Praca dos Restauradores which is an easy walk to train, bus, metro and funicular as well as the center. I also take the airport bus into town, but that wouldn't work if you're up by the castle.

Hi Sashie. In the three trips we have never made it to the Algarve and it still isn't on my list. There are such beautiful beach areas North of Lisbon.
I would concentrate on Northern Portugal because we haven't spent enough time there.
Different people like different things. I looked into the castelo area for my first trip and someone here asked me to reconsider. The hotels and apartments looked nice in the area but when I realized the logistics of getting up there and down I changed my mind.
I am glad to hear you are not writing off all of Portugal.

thursdaysd - I

oops how did that happen?

Thursdaysd - I love big cities, crowds, noise and walking and discovering hidden areas and shops and museums (when my husband isn't with me) and thought that I would fall in love with Lisbon or at least like it enough to want to return. However, I did fall in love with the food and wine. I've been to a lot of places and the food in Lisbon (and throughout Portugal) was consistently good. More like very good to great. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, pastries, gelato. The best. And the people were some of the friendliest.

I think I have to re-read your post on Lisbon.

Sorry Sher and Thursdaysd, but I agree with SashieZ in this particular subject. If I was given the option of spending my holidays in Lisbon or any other capital city, I'd chose any other capital city in a heartbeat.
"Viola" to both of you ;-)

Hi lobo - but you LIVE in Lisbon! If I lived there I'd want to spend my holidays somewhere else too. I once lived in London, and I certainly didn't spend my holidays there.

Oooops!!! I forgot that
Nice to hear from you Thursdaysd

lobo mau - lol

This was our last full day in Portugal so we started the day early – it’s also cooler. Breakfast at the hotel was delicious, although served in the lobby. Nice selection, good coffee and those pastries!!

Today, the plan was to walk over to Rue dos Portos do Antao , to Rue Libertine and then towards Rossio train station and on to Praca de Commercio to catch the tram to Belem. Better view of city today (not as hot maybe?) but far from what I expected. Just heading from our hotel down to Baxia area was depressing. Garbage on the streets (some in bags, some not), graffiti everywhere, unkept, messy. Rue Libertine I’m sure was gorgeous at one time. The esplanade with trees and a few fountains had some construction going on but I’m sure once that is finished it will be beautiful. Rue Libertine is where you will find high end shopping so I was surprised. One beautiful building followed by 2 buildings in need of repair and so much litter. Some of the tiled buildings were gorgeous, there are so many of them in Portugal but to see so many in disrepair in Lisbon was disheartening.

Headed towards Praca de Commercio to catch the tram to Belem to visit the monastery. We enjoyed this area – the monastery, the tower and statues were all beautiful along with the gardens. We spent most of our time in the monastery and just walked by the tower. It was another hot day and there were loads of people at the tower so we decided to skip it and have lunch at a pizzeria called “nosolo Italian”. It was located right on the water with views of the great statue of the explorers. Great pizza and salads. Didn’t eat the packaged breadsticks so when I was charged 5 euros I asked for it to be removed from bill. He was annoyed but I insisted nicely. Am I wrong? Usually my husband pays the check, barely looking at it. I can’t believe the waiter was annoyed! I didn’t open the package and placed it on the table next to us – maybe I should have given it back to the waiter. But the restaurant was very good and I still recommend it.

Tram back to city center – don’t remember exactly where we got off but got lost and wandered around a while. It’s hot now - it was 24C, with a blazing sun so not the best time to not know where you’re going. Finally found our way and up, up, up to the very comfortable hotel.

Read about a restaurant called Churrasco de Graca on Largo Do Graca #43 on Chowhound. It is known for its excellent grilled fish and the location was close to our hotel. Found largo do Graca very easily but never did find the restaurant. After a while, DH just stood there while I went round and round with no luck. (is this restaurant still there?) So back to the area we had dinner last night and found another outdoor restaurant but no one was there. We were tired so decided to try it. Perfectly grilled whole Dorado. Delicious. After one hour the place was packed. Seems to me you can eat anywhere and get good fish. The two restaurants in Lisbon were simple, inexpensive restaurants with very, very good food. Walked around a bit after dinner, got gelato and some pastries and sat near the castle. Funny, we were so close to the Castle but never made it inside!

Is there a Libertine st in Lisbon? OMG, what else am I missing??

oops - how did I get Libertine??? Liberdade is the street I believe..

The process is known as a "failed act". Don't worry, it is happening to me all the time.
(see Psychopathology of everyday life, Freud, 1901)

I have been to Lisbon twice-I thought I'd give it another try but left feeling sadder than after my first visit.
I just feel sad at the poor overall state of what obviously was originally a beautiful capital city.
I don't understand why it didn't benefit more from being part of the European Union.I know that Portugal has lots of financial problems now but so did/does Spain.
Spain, especially Madrid made so many improvements over the years.
It may sound trivial but I always notice the well- maintained flower beds in Madrid and then how neglected they are in Lisbon.Once again I see no charm in broken sidewalks and fountains.I was happy to see that some improvemnets are underway in Constitution square.

You know, I was just in Lisbon in early March. Perhaps my vision was a little skewed, since I had recently spent six weeks in India, but I was not struck by the presence of graffiti, or the state of the sidewalks, or litter. Perhaps they were present, but if so I certainly didn't notice enough to be concerned. Instead I once again admired the swirling mosaics in Rossio Square, the remarkable renovation of Rossio station, the fabulous views from the Miradoros. I noticed for the first time the interesting architecture around the Gulbenkian (and paid a second visit inside) and admired the Parque Eduardo VII. For the second time I spent a long time wandering happily around the Monasterio at Belem. I spent a day out at the Parque das Nacoes area, with its big new mall. I ate very well - for very little at Bom Jardin, and not much more at other places.

I don't know. As I said, maybe my standards are lower, but I wasn't struck by any general sense of dirt and decay.

As thursdaysd said, I didn't notice much decay in Lisbon either (was there 3 weeks ago). Some parts of Bairro Alto and Alfama (which I loved, by the way) were a bit run down but Baixa and Belém were, in general, very clean and well kept.
Anyway, the situation in Porto is much, much, worse IMO. Such a shame that this beautiful town is in such bad condition.

The End! Can't believe it took me so long to finish.

Although I'm glad I visited Lisbon, I am also glad we only spent two nights there. I wish I could see Lisbon through your eyes Thursdaysd- maybe if I were travelling with you I would have a different perspective, but overall I have wonderful memories of Portugal.

Thanks again for all your help!!