Trip Report: 3 Days in London (September)
Sep 21st, 2011, 02:31 AM
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Trip Report: 3 Days in London (September)
We spent 3 days in London last week and here is a trip report. Thanks to everyone who helped us plan the trip. Hope this could be of use to future travelers.
<B> Day 0: Arrival </B>
We arrived at London Gatwick at around 10:30pm in the night after a little more than a week in Scotland (Will post trip report for Scotland separately). We were staying in Holborn so decided to take the first train to London Victoria/London Bridge. Getting a train ticket at Gatwick is quite easy as departure times for various trains is shown on big screens so fast-track machines could be much quicker than queing up at ticket window.
<u>Tip</u>: For ticket machines, please keep a bank note close to ticket value or else you will end up with plenty of 1 pound coins
We took the train to London Bridge, got off-peak paper travel card (zone1-2) from the station and then took a cab to our hotel.
<B> Day 1: Tower of London, Tate Modern & West End Theatre </B>
Now that our body clocks have aligned to UK time, we realized that 9am starts on holidays is just not for us so on our first morning in London (and all subsequent mornings) we had a later breakfast and only started around 11am. Took a bus to our first stop which was Tower of London, reached there by 11:30am. Tickets took less than 10 mins and we used 2 for 1 discount. However we missed 11:30 beefeater tour so decided to take the one at 12pm. It’s an enjoyable 1 hour tour but it doesn’t go inside any of the towers so note that you will have to go back and visit them later. We visited crown jewels and white tower next. At white tower, there was a 45 min tour of white tower which we took as we were there at right time but personally I didn’t enjoy it much. Lot of information was same as one we got in beefeater tour, it was more of a lecture than tour as half the time we spent sitting in tower chapel and other half in the adjoining room. Anyways by the time we made our way out of white tower it was already 3pm so we had lunch at Tower café.
<u>Tip</u>: Plant at least 4 hours for Tower of London. Start with the beefeater tour, next queue up for crown jewels and then you can make your way to white tower. Depending upon energy and interest you could then decide if you want to visit either Medieval place or Bloody Tower or none of them.
<u>Tip</u>: Avoid White Tower tour, will save you time.
Originally, we have planned to visit Borough Market and St. Paul’s Cathedral after Tower of London but realized that we will have to improvise so decided to take the Southbank walk to Borough Market and Tate Modern instead. However, just as we were making our way to Queen’s Walk to Borough Market, we realized that Tower Bridge will be lifting so we decided to wait to see that. Interesting that they stopped loads of traffic for a 5 men masted-boat. By the time we reached Borough Market it was nearing 5pm and so market was closing down for all practical purpose. Could only spent about 30min here at some of the permanent establishments
Finally, made our way to Tate Modern (which opens late on Saturday) and by now our feet were aching from all the walking. Stepped into first gallery on Level 3 but quickly realized that audio guides are a must to make sense of modern art. So came down, got the audio guides and back again. Spent about 2 hours here, it is interesting no doubt but won’t say that it is an ‘absolute must’ for someone visiting London for the first time.
<u>Tip</u>: If you are visiting Tate Modern, pick the audio guides at GF before making your way up, really helps to appreciate various exhibits.
Our final stop for the day was Piccadilly Circus where we were watching ’39 Steps’. We took a cab from Tate Modern and reached Tate Modern just in time. Enjoyed the play, it’s a nice adaptation and very well staged. Had dinner close to Piccadilly Circus and then made our way back to Holborn.
<B> Day 2: British Museum & Oxford Street </B>
Again we had a late start to the day and finally about 11:00am we reached British Museum. Borrower audio guides which now cost 5pounds each (but entrance is free which is amazing for a place with such superb collection). Started with Ancient Egypt Galleries then visited China and South East Asia galleries, European Galleries, Clocks and Watches gallery and finally to Parthenon Galleries. Spent close to 4-5 hours here and could have spend lot more.
<u>Tip</u>: If you are short on time, please note that this Museum has about 100 rooms over 3 floors, it’s impossible to see it all and so you may need to prioritize what you may want to see. If you just want to see the highlights and have say around 3-4 hours, I will suggest that you pick the 1 pound museum map and audio guides (I always prefer audio guides to written guides as you can see the exhibit as you hear the narrative) and follow the following route:
1. First do the Parthenon tour, simply because all the exhibits are on the ground floor in one big gallery and audio guide has a tour for this.
2. Then pick up the highlights of remaining Greece and Assyria Galleries as you make your way to the Egypt Galleries (they are all on the ground floor in connected rooms). Note that there is no tour for these galleries but you can select the room on the audio guide and find out highlights of each room.
3. Then do the Ancient Egypt Tour from Audio Guide which starts at the Ground Floor and ends at Upper Floors.
4. I personally found the China gallery to be a disappointment so once on Upper Floors just stick to this floor and choose between Middle East or European Galleries
5. If you have time or interest you could also explore one of the themed rooms like clocks and watches which are on upper floor.
We got out of British Museum at about 3:30pm and had a late Italian lunch on New Oxford Street. Next we made our way to Oxford Street for some retail therapy for wife. After spending about 2 hours there (coz it closes by 6:30pm on a Sunday), we decided to head to Westminster to see the night lights of parliament, Big Ben and London eye. Ideally, we should have got our oyster card by now but we haven’t and since we decided to take a bus to Westminster so had to find out exact change to get the tickets. But there was some function near parliament and so the bus got diverted once we got in. By the time we made sense of the diversion announcement, we were close to Hyde Park so got down at Hyde Park Corner and then walked back to Parliament Square. It was not a short walk and so by end of it our feet were again revolting. However spent some time around Westminster Bridge and London Eye and then decided to head back to Covent Garden for dinner. Got to Waterloo Station to get our oyster card, and took tube back to Covent Garden for dinner before calling it a night.
<u>Tip</u>: In stations which are both rail and tube stops (like waterloo), go down to tube platforms to get oyster cards etc. We spent 30 mins in rail ticket queue at Waterloo station and then were told oyster cards could be easily (and only be) bought at tube ticket windows.
<B> Day 3: St. Paul’s and Westminster </B>
Another 11am start but this time more due to packing and checking out routine. Our original plan for today was Westminster Abbey and National Gallery but since we missed the St. Paul’s on Day 1 so decided to skip National Gallery this time and turn our Monday into church day. Took the tube to St. Paul’s and joined in 11:15am 90min Super Tour of the Cathedral. Interesting tour, covered all highlights. Me and my wife are still divided on whether an Audio Guide would have been a better bet or not as we could have timed ourselves better. Anyways, we next climbed the stairs to the top of Dome, Whispering galleries need to be renamed I guess as there was hardly a whisper could get around. Stone Galleries on top of that are outdoor galleries which are bound by huge pillars and you can’t see a lot or click any nice pictures so it is not till one climbs through narrow stairs to absolute top (Golden Galleries I guess) that you get to see those nice views of London from the top.
<u>Tip</u>: Unless you plan to go to absolute top (Golden Galleries) through narrow stairs, it’s not worth the climb to intermediate galleries.
Had another Italian Lunch outside St. Paul’s and then we walked down Millennium Bridge to Tate Modern for some nice pics of Cathedral from the distance. And here we made our big mistake, we wanted to get to Westminster Abbey from here but there are no easy tube stations on this side of Thames going to Westminster and we somehow didn’t get our bus stops right. Ended up walking whole stretch from Tate Modern to Westminster Abbey (and no not by the Thames as it was closed due to some construction work) and reached there at 3:30pm. We had the distinction of first couple to be denied entry into Abbey that day as they close at 3:30pm and they decided that people in front of us are last to be granted tickets. Found it a bit strange but then rules are rules so no Westminster Abbey for us.
<u>Tip</u>: Our feet didn’t take too kindly to all the intentional or unintentional walking we ended up doing in London so I would suggest that plan your routes wisely and do use the buses and tubes. Also there indeed is lot of construction going on in London so previously delightful strolls may not be same say till Olympics 2012.
So then we headed to St. James Park and took a delightful walk to Buckingham Palace. This is a beautiful park and we really liked our stroll here. Took some obligatory pics at the Palace, as we still had time in hand so we decided to head to Covent Garden and spent some time there before getting back to our hotel to pick our luggage and head out to Heathrow for our flight back.
Took the tube from Holborn to Heathrow T3 at around 7pm. Didn’t face any particular issues on the way back though it’s a long journey of a little more than an hour. Returned Oyster Cards and then made our way to check-in for the long flight back.
<B>Conclusion </B>
I don’t think I achieved to see a lot of London but if I have to rate my top 3 experience at London, I would say (i) British Museum, (ii) Tower of London and (iii) West End Theatre..
Overall, London as a city didn’t impress me as some other cities like Paris and Barcelona did during my previous trips to Europe. Found it a bit cold, too drunk (but we were there on weekend) and as if city is in some big rush. Trappings of a big city but as a tourist it doesn’t warm upto you if you are just spending less than 100 hours there. This is a very personal opinion formed from limited time I spent there so please don’t construe it as a judgment on the city and I have absolutely no intentions to offend either Londoners or so many posters here who hold a very different opinion. For all future travelers to London, have a good stay and enjoy your travels.
<B> Day 0: Arrival </B>
We arrived at London Gatwick at around 10:30pm in the night after a little more than a week in Scotland (Will post trip report for Scotland separately). We were staying in Holborn so decided to take the first train to London Victoria/London Bridge. Getting a train ticket at Gatwick is quite easy as departure times for various trains is shown on big screens so fast-track machines could be much quicker than queing up at ticket window.
<u>Tip</u>: For ticket machines, please keep a bank note close to ticket value or else you will end up with plenty of 1 pound coins
We took the train to London Bridge, got off-peak paper travel card (zone1-2) from the station and then took a cab to our hotel.
<B> Day 1: Tower of London, Tate Modern & West End Theatre </B>
Now that our body clocks have aligned to UK time, we realized that 9am starts on holidays is just not for us so on our first morning in London (and all subsequent mornings) we had a later breakfast and only started around 11am. Took a bus to our first stop which was Tower of London, reached there by 11:30am. Tickets took less than 10 mins and we used 2 for 1 discount. However we missed 11:30 beefeater tour so decided to take the one at 12pm. It’s an enjoyable 1 hour tour but it doesn’t go inside any of the towers so note that you will have to go back and visit them later. We visited crown jewels and white tower next. At white tower, there was a 45 min tour of white tower which we took as we were there at right time but personally I didn’t enjoy it much. Lot of information was same as one we got in beefeater tour, it was more of a lecture than tour as half the time we spent sitting in tower chapel and other half in the adjoining room. Anyways by the time we made our way out of white tower it was already 3pm so we had lunch at Tower café.
<u>Tip</u>: Plant at least 4 hours for Tower of London. Start with the beefeater tour, next queue up for crown jewels and then you can make your way to white tower. Depending upon energy and interest you could then decide if you want to visit either Medieval place or Bloody Tower or none of them.
<u>Tip</u>: Avoid White Tower tour, will save you time.
Originally, we have planned to visit Borough Market and St. Paul’s Cathedral after Tower of London but realized that we will have to improvise so decided to take the Southbank walk to Borough Market and Tate Modern instead. However, just as we were making our way to Queen’s Walk to Borough Market, we realized that Tower Bridge will be lifting so we decided to wait to see that. Interesting that they stopped loads of traffic for a 5 men masted-boat. By the time we reached Borough Market it was nearing 5pm and so market was closing down for all practical purpose. Could only spent about 30min here at some of the permanent establishments
Finally, made our way to Tate Modern (which opens late on Saturday) and by now our feet were aching from all the walking. Stepped into first gallery on Level 3 but quickly realized that audio guides are a must to make sense of modern art. So came down, got the audio guides and back again. Spent about 2 hours here, it is interesting no doubt but won’t say that it is an ‘absolute must’ for someone visiting London for the first time.
<u>Tip</u>: If you are visiting Tate Modern, pick the audio guides at GF before making your way up, really helps to appreciate various exhibits.
Our final stop for the day was Piccadilly Circus where we were watching ’39 Steps’. We took a cab from Tate Modern and reached Tate Modern just in time. Enjoyed the play, it’s a nice adaptation and very well staged. Had dinner close to Piccadilly Circus and then made our way back to Holborn.
<B> Day 2: British Museum & Oxford Street </B>
Again we had a late start to the day and finally about 11:00am we reached British Museum. Borrower audio guides which now cost 5pounds each (but entrance is free which is amazing for a place with such superb collection). Started with Ancient Egypt Galleries then visited China and South East Asia galleries, European Galleries, Clocks and Watches gallery and finally to Parthenon Galleries. Spent close to 4-5 hours here and could have spend lot more.
<u>Tip</u>: If you are short on time, please note that this Museum has about 100 rooms over 3 floors, it’s impossible to see it all and so you may need to prioritize what you may want to see. If you just want to see the highlights and have say around 3-4 hours, I will suggest that you pick the 1 pound museum map and audio guides (I always prefer audio guides to written guides as you can see the exhibit as you hear the narrative) and follow the following route:
1. First do the Parthenon tour, simply because all the exhibits are on the ground floor in one big gallery and audio guide has a tour for this.
2. Then pick up the highlights of remaining Greece and Assyria Galleries as you make your way to the Egypt Galleries (they are all on the ground floor in connected rooms). Note that there is no tour for these galleries but you can select the room on the audio guide and find out highlights of each room.
3. Then do the Ancient Egypt Tour from Audio Guide which starts at the Ground Floor and ends at Upper Floors.
4. I personally found the China gallery to be a disappointment so once on Upper Floors just stick to this floor and choose between Middle East or European Galleries
5. If you have time or interest you could also explore one of the themed rooms like clocks and watches which are on upper floor.
We got out of British Museum at about 3:30pm and had a late Italian lunch on New Oxford Street. Next we made our way to Oxford Street for some retail therapy for wife. After spending about 2 hours there (coz it closes by 6:30pm on a Sunday), we decided to head to Westminster to see the night lights of parliament, Big Ben and London eye. Ideally, we should have got our oyster card by now but we haven’t and since we decided to take a bus to Westminster so had to find out exact change to get the tickets. But there was some function near parliament and so the bus got diverted once we got in. By the time we made sense of the diversion announcement, we were close to Hyde Park so got down at Hyde Park Corner and then walked back to Parliament Square. It was not a short walk and so by end of it our feet were again revolting. However spent some time around Westminster Bridge and London Eye and then decided to head back to Covent Garden for dinner. Got to Waterloo Station to get our oyster card, and took tube back to Covent Garden for dinner before calling it a night.
<u>Tip</u>: In stations which are both rail and tube stops (like waterloo), go down to tube platforms to get oyster cards etc. We spent 30 mins in rail ticket queue at Waterloo station and then were told oyster cards could be easily (and only be) bought at tube ticket windows.
<B> Day 3: St. Paul’s and Westminster </B>
Another 11am start but this time more due to packing and checking out routine. Our original plan for today was Westminster Abbey and National Gallery but since we missed the St. Paul’s on Day 1 so decided to skip National Gallery this time and turn our Monday into church day. Took the tube to St. Paul’s and joined in 11:15am 90min Super Tour of the Cathedral. Interesting tour, covered all highlights. Me and my wife are still divided on whether an Audio Guide would have been a better bet or not as we could have timed ourselves better. Anyways, we next climbed the stairs to the top of Dome, Whispering galleries need to be renamed I guess as there was hardly a whisper could get around. Stone Galleries on top of that are outdoor galleries which are bound by huge pillars and you can’t see a lot or click any nice pictures so it is not till one climbs through narrow stairs to absolute top (Golden Galleries I guess) that you get to see those nice views of London from the top.
<u>Tip</u>: Unless you plan to go to absolute top (Golden Galleries) through narrow stairs, it’s not worth the climb to intermediate galleries.
Had another Italian Lunch outside St. Paul’s and then we walked down Millennium Bridge to Tate Modern for some nice pics of Cathedral from the distance. And here we made our big mistake, we wanted to get to Westminster Abbey from here but there are no easy tube stations on this side of Thames going to Westminster and we somehow didn’t get our bus stops right. Ended up walking whole stretch from Tate Modern to Westminster Abbey (and no not by the Thames as it was closed due to some construction work) and reached there at 3:30pm. We had the distinction of first couple to be denied entry into Abbey that day as they close at 3:30pm and they decided that people in front of us are last to be granted tickets. Found it a bit strange but then rules are rules so no Westminster Abbey for us.
<u>Tip</u>: Our feet didn’t take too kindly to all the intentional or unintentional walking we ended up doing in London so I would suggest that plan your routes wisely and do use the buses and tubes. Also there indeed is lot of construction going on in London so previously delightful strolls may not be same say till Olympics 2012.
So then we headed to St. James Park and took a delightful walk to Buckingham Palace. This is a beautiful park and we really liked our stroll here. Took some obligatory pics at the Palace, as we still had time in hand so we decided to head to Covent Garden and spent some time there before getting back to our hotel to pick our luggage and head out to Heathrow for our flight back.
Took the tube from Holborn to Heathrow T3 at around 7pm. Didn’t face any particular issues on the way back though it’s a long journey of a little more than an hour. Returned Oyster Cards and then made our way to check-in for the long flight back.
<B>Conclusion </B>
I don’t think I achieved to see a lot of London but if I have to rate my top 3 experience at London, I would say (i) British Museum, (ii) Tower of London and (iii) West End Theatre..
Overall, London as a city didn’t impress me as some other cities like Paris and Barcelona did during my previous trips to Europe. Found it a bit cold, too drunk (but we were there on weekend) and as if city is in some big rush. Trappings of a big city but as a tourist it doesn’t warm upto you if you are just spending less than 100 hours there. This is a very personal opinion formed from limited time I spent there so please don’t construe it as a judgment on the city and I have absolutely no intentions to offend either Londoners or so many posters here who hold a very different opinion. For all future travelers to London, have a good stay and enjoy your travels.
Sep 21st, 2011, 04:36 AM
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sorry you missed Westminster Abbey. As many times as I have been to London, it is always a must stop for me. But at least you had some other wonderful highlights.
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to your report on Scotland.
Thanks for sharing and looking forward to your report on Scotland.
Sep 21st, 2011, 05:29 AM
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London is my very favorite city in the WORLD!
We are going back again next week for the 10 time.
"When One gets tired of London, one gets tired of life" says Sam Johnson, is my mantra. ;-)
Good report BTW.
We have never done the ST Paul's tour, but are thinking of doing it this time around...thanks for the input.
We are going back again next week for the 10 time.
"When One gets tired of London, one gets tired of life" says Sam Johnson, is my mantra. ;-)
Good report BTW.
We have never done the ST Paul's tour, but are thinking of doing it this time around...thanks for the input.
Sep 22nd, 2011, 04:00 AM
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@irishface. It's a pity but London is a city that everyone goes atleast twice so I actually already have a plan for next time - Abbey, Parliamen tourt, V&A museum, Hyde park, Thames cruise, hampton court 
so am not too disappointed.
@Judyrem well, you fall for some on the first sight and some others take time so I hope am second time lucky with London whenever that second time is Btw St. Paul's have two guided tours a 30min mini tour and a 90min super tour, super tour does go into crypt not sure if mini tour does or not.
@janisj hahaha did they, maybe yes. But then i always plan for perfection but during vacation just take things as they come. I guess planning just help one makes informed decisions when things don't go as per plan
so am not too disappointed. @Judyrem well, you fall for some on the first sight and some others take time so I hope am second time lucky with London whenever that second time is
Btw St. Paul's have two guided tours a 30min mini tour and a 90min super tour, super tour does go into crypt not sure if mini tour does or not. @janisj hahaha did they, maybe yes. But then i always plan for perfection but during vacation just take things as they come. I guess planning just help one makes informed decisions when things don't go as per plan
Sep 25th, 2011, 08:30 AM
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A_Guy, glad that you are going to give London another try – soooo much to say and do.
May I ask, how was the weather when you folks were there? When the weather is brilliant (as it was on my trip last year) everything looks great! When cloudy and overcast as it was on my most recent visit, the greyness can cast a pall that may have a negative effect. But is there another city with more fascinating places to “duck into” to escape the elements?
May I ask, how was the weather when you folks were there? When the weather is brilliant (as it was on my trip last year) everything looks great! When cloudy and overcast as it was on my most recent visit, the greyness can cast a pall that may have a negative effect. But is there another city with more fascinating places to “duck into” to escape the elements?
Sep 26th, 2011, 12:44 AM
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Hi latedaytraveler. Weather was generally fine. Day 1 turned overcast once we finished with Tower of London but besides that it was typically sunny. So naah am not gonna blame poor weather for London bit of my trip
