Trip Report: 2 Weeks In Spain – Solo Woman Traveler
Jun 3rd, 2007, 05:35 PM
#21
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Hi again - Thanks so much for these kind responses (P.S. So sorry about the paragraphs being smashed together in my last response. I can't figure out how to separate them now that they've been posted).
Amsdon - RE: my next destination: Prague and Vienna seem to be calling loudly, so I will probably head there in September - I hope.
Comfy Shoes -I really don't know why the SG is more prevalent in Europe. All I know is that I want to go back to Madrid!
Like ninasdream said, I too experienced something similar in Italy - Florence stands out most vividly. But there the big SG also included an added bonus: the throaty whisper of "Bellisima!" as the SG-er passed by (which caused me to giggle uncontrollably and spit my cappuccino all over my blouse. No more SG's after that!)
Nikki - thanks so much for clearing up the carry-on mystery - Appreciate it
Amsdon - RE: my next destination: Prague and Vienna seem to be calling loudly, so I will probably head there in September - I hope.
Comfy Shoes -I really don't know why the SG is more prevalent in Europe. All I know is that I want to go back to Madrid!
Like ninasdream said, I too experienced something similar in Italy - Florence stands out most vividly. But there the big SG also included an added bonus: the throaty whisper of "Bellisima!" as the SG-er passed by (which caused me to giggle uncontrollably and spit my cappuccino all over my blouse. No more SG's after that!)
Nikki - thanks so much for clearing up the carry-on mystery - Appreciate it
Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:27 PM
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Re the carry on, Yes Nikki is correct. We flew Lufthansa through Frankfurt instead of Heathrow this time and there were all sorts of carry ons, personal bags and totes in addition to purses and camera bags. But the food is better on BA.
Jun 4th, 2007, 06:27 AM
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Brava to you, Magellan5!
I love to hear about stories like this. I have travelled solo (sola?) extensively and it really has its perks. You do what you want when you want, eat what you want when you want, etc. etc.
Yes it can be a little lonely at times, but the benefits are great too.
Cheers,
Ellen
I love to hear about stories like this. I have travelled solo (sola?) extensively and it really has its perks. You do what you want when you want, eat what you want when you want, etc. etc.
Yes it can be a little lonely at times, but the benefits are great too.
Cheers,
Ellen
Jun 4th, 2007, 07:27 AM
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I would highly advise that you know the crucial difference between, “It is easy” and “I am easy.”
Well, this gave me my first big laugh of the day! Very good advice, by the way.
Thanks for a great trip report, Magellan!
Well, this gave me my first big laugh of the day! Very good advice, by the way.
Thanks for a great trip report, Magellan!
Jun 4th, 2007, 09:42 AM
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Loved, LOVED, loved your report.
ahhh, the "smoldering glance". It IS an artform. In both of its aspects - the smolderer and the smolderee...
It takes years to perfect and true mastery of the artform only begins to be evident after 30. Professional smolderers (the ones that can actually make you trip over the sidewalk) are usually well into their 50's.
LOL at the hissing women.
So, so true about the makeup. I do not wear much makeup regularly while on vacation (my first two times in Madrid) so I did not notice it until the first time I was there for business. Removed most of it by lunchtime.
I never had much of an issue with dining alone but I was also transformed when I witnessed a Dining Queen. I was solo in Paris. She was a drop-dead gorgeous woman in her higher 70's. Had some serious jewelry (never hurts). She savored and enjoyed every single bite of her meal. I wish I had taken a picture of her... I want to be like that when I grow up
ahhh, the "smoldering glance". It IS an artform. In both of its aspects - the smolderer and the smolderee...
It takes years to perfect and true mastery of the artform only begins to be evident after 30. Professional smolderers (the ones that can actually make you trip over the sidewalk) are usually well into their 50's.
LOL at the hissing women.
So, so true about the makeup. I do not wear much makeup regularly while on vacation (my first two times in Madrid) so I did not notice it until the first time I was there for business. Removed most of it by lunchtime.
I never had much of an issue with dining alone but I was also transformed when I witnessed a Dining Queen. I was solo in Paris. She was a drop-dead gorgeous woman in her higher 70's. Had some serious jewelry (never hurts). She savored and enjoyed every single bite of her meal. I wish I had taken a picture of her... I want to be like that when I grow up
Jun 4th, 2007, 12:25 PM
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Love your report! Interesting and fun, too!
I was last in Spain exactly two years ago; I was visiting my long-distance sweetie in Madrid, but I stayed mostly at a little hotel not far from the Prado/Atocha area. I had been to Spain quite a few times in the past but not for many years...
I had so much fun in Madrid! I did hang out with my friend most evenings, and we went places on the weekends, but I spent much of the time alone, including day trips to Toledo, etc.
I sat in the outdoor cafe at your hotel the first day, and also found it a great place to people watch. Even though I am quite a bit older than you, I thouroughly enjoyed the attention that my blonde hair brought me; the older I get, the less annoying this is, believe me!
I found getting around Madrid by bus and foot no problem, once I was oriented. I took refuge in the Retiro park and even though I am not a big shopper, had a lot of fun buying cute tops, fun jewelry and gifts for friends in Madrid and in Toledo.
I hope someone can shed more light on the hissing women!
I also sat next to a wonderful and very elegant older Spanish woman enjoying lunch at the cafe across from the Palacio Real; she inspired me to remember to enjoy my solo meals and savor my independence.
Evenings are always a little harder for me alone, and I really love nightlife and so was glad for my friend with me...but I certainly felt very comfortable in all the places we went in Madrid - including, I think, that multistoried club you mention. I lost him the minute we got there and had fun anyway!
I was last in Spain exactly two years ago; I was visiting my long-distance sweetie in Madrid, but I stayed mostly at a little hotel not far from the Prado/Atocha area. I had been to Spain quite a few times in the past but not for many years...
I had so much fun in Madrid! I did hang out with my friend most evenings, and we went places on the weekends, but I spent much of the time alone, including day trips to Toledo, etc.
I sat in the outdoor cafe at your hotel the first day, and also found it a great place to people watch. Even though I am quite a bit older than you, I thouroughly enjoyed the attention that my blonde hair brought me; the older I get, the less annoying this is, believe me!
I found getting around Madrid by bus and foot no problem, once I was oriented. I took refuge in the Retiro park and even though I am not a big shopper, had a lot of fun buying cute tops, fun jewelry and gifts for friends in Madrid and in Toledo.
I hope someone can shed more light on the hissing women!
I also sat next to a wonderful and very elegant older Spanish woman enjoying lunch at the cafe across from the Palacio Real; she inspired me to remember to enjoy my solo meals and savor my independence.
Evenings are always a little harder for me alone, and I really love nightlife and so was glad for my friend with me...but I certainly felt very comfortable in all the places we went in Madrid - including, I think, that multistoried club you mention. I lost him the minute we got there and had fun anyway!
Jun 6th, 2007, 08:45 AM
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Hi, Magellan,
I am really enloying your report, having done solo trips myself. I also could have been that busy mom giving you the envious look, but actually, like you, have rather aspired to be more like the "regal" woman. I found you can really overload on people, sometimes due to your line of work or a big family, and so I have appreciated every opporunity at solitude since very young age.
Just a few days ago, in San Gimignano, our two friends and my husband and I sat down at a restaurant with a phenomenal view, and a few minutes later the three of them decided they are not hungry after all and would rather just walk around. I chose to stay at the restaurant and enjoyed my solitude, and the view of the Tuscan countryside, to the fullest (to the appreciative looks of two German women at the next table).
I hope you too can master the art of solitude, "own it", as you say, and enjoy it "regally" for as long as you want.
-e
I am really enloying your report, having done solo trips myself. I also could have been that busy mom giving you the envious look, but actually, like you, have rather aspired to be more like the "regal" woman. I found you can really overload on people, sometimes due to your line of work or a big family, and so I have appreciated every opporunity at solitude since very young age.
Just a few days ago, in San Gimignano, our two friends and my husband and I sat down at a restaurant with a phenomenal view, and a few minutes later the three of them decided they are not hungry after all and would rather just walk around. I chose to stay at the restaurant and enjoyed my solitude, and the view of the Tuscan countryside, to the fullest (to the appreciative looks of two German women at the next table).
I hope you too can master the art of solitude, "own it", as you say, and enjoy it "regally" for as long as you want.
-e
Jun 6th, 2007, 09:33 AM
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It's rare that I laugh out loud several times when reading a report, (unless it's written by thingorujus).
This was great and a very useful report. I also find dinner the most challenging part of traveling solo although I don't beat myself up for sometimes eating something wonderful in the apartment before heading out -- it's so relaxing and pleasurable (but not so much in a hotel -- I never eat alone in a hotel room).
I also tend to carry myself in a pretty cautious manner when I travel and it's hard to know whether I've overcompensated and should have been more relaxed and open. I also almost always lie to people asking about my status unless they're American tourist couples, never stop to talk to the men who try to help me with my bag (I wave them off, saying "I'm fine, really, thank you" in various languages).
I'd like to strike a balance between smart and aware with fun and open -- I guess I have a future of trips to try to master that! thanks again for the fun report.
This was great and a very useful report. I also find dinner the most challenging part of traveling solo although I don't beat myself up for sometimes eating something wonderful in the apartment before heading out -- it's so relaxing and pleasurable (but not so much in a hotel -- I never eat alone in a hotel room).
I also tend to carry myself in a pretty cautious manner when I travel and it's hard to know whether I've overcompensated and should have been more relaxed and open. I also almost always lie to people asking about my status unless they're American tourist couples, never stop to talk to the men who try to help me with my bag (I wave them off, saying "I'm fine, really, thank you" in various languages).
I'd like to strike a balance between smart and aware with fun and open -- I guess I have a future of trips to try to master that! thanks again for the fun report.
Jun 6th, 2007, 10:20 AM
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Well from another solo traveller - thank you so much for such a wonderfully humorous and informative report. I could relate to so much of what you said. I was hissed at in Italy, but by men. What's up with that. I actually thought it might be a compliment, lol, but maybe not? I have also experienced the SG - in fact, in Rome, I felt like I had had a love affair over lunch one day with a complete stranger. Felt like I should have had a cigarette when he left. It takes some practice to give the SG right back.
I really loved the picture you painted of the regal lady diner. I try very hard to do just that, but sometimes it can be a challenge. A book and a journal certainly can help, but it's the attitude that really is the ticket.
Rather than going into every tiny detail of what you saw and did, your approach was so helpful and interesting. Loved it. Brava!!!
I really loved the picture you painted of the regal lady diner. I try very hard to do just that, but sometimes it can be a challenge. A book and a journal certainly can help, but it's the attitude that really is the ticket.
Rather than going into every tiny detail of what you saw and did, your approach was so helpful and interesting. Loved it. Brava!!!
Jun 6th, 2007, 01:49 PM
#33
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Thanks again for these great responses. I absolutely love hearing about others who have dined solo or who have experienced appreciation. Yes, Barb – I too wanted a post-SG smoke (LOL!)
*Postscript: Because several of you have mentioned it, I wanted to further research my (now beloved) hissing incident in Toledo. Not to offend, but solely in the name of science do I add this addendum to my post.
According to the ever-popular, “Non-Verbal Communication Across Disciplines,” hissing primarily is used to get someone’s attention:
“…what is referred to as ‘hissing’ without further qualifications could be any of several sounds with very specific meanings, both culturally and cross-culturally. One is the unvoiced laminoalveo fricative[s], used to call someone’s attention (according to the situational context) in several cultures (e.g. [calling] a waiter in rather informal Spanish places), or to specifically call a Spanish woman’s attention on the street, with two short hisses, etc. represented ‘Sss!’, which can be written ‘Sss!’ or ‘SSss!’ and referred to as ‘to hiss’ or ‘a hiss’.”
Well…obviously.
To clarify, the Sss! sound (“Hey, come here, good lookin’!” or “Hey, can you PLEASE get me another drink?”) should not be confused with Ssshhhhh! (“Hey, we’re in a CHURCH for cryin’ out loud – can you please shut the hell up?!”) Both sounds convey very different meanings and confusing the two can get you in trouble (I mean, do you really want to tell the waiter to keep quiet when you’re trying to get your sangria refilled? I think not).
The Sss! that I experienced however, was slightly different. Apparently, hissing from elderly women is a medieval form of conveying disapproval. According to several reputable sources, in imitating the sounds of hissing serpents, these lovely ladies were simply letting me know that they were fully and unhappily cognizant of the fact that I am…..yes it’s true….. a demon.
Given the fact that I WAS awfully close to the cathedral at the time, it really explains a lot. Demons have no business hanging around churches (I mean, REALLY!) I clearly had overstepped my bounds, and won’t do it again. Sincere apologies that I forget to mention my true identity when I first posted this report.
*Postscript: Because several of you have mentioned it, I wanted to further research my (now beloved) hissing incident in Toledo. Not to offend, but solely in the name of science do I add this addendum to my post.
According to the ever-popular, “Non-Verbal Communication Across Disciplines,” hissing primarily is used to get someone’s attention:
“…what is referred to as ‘hissing’ without further qualifications could be any of several sounds with very specific meanings, both culturally and cross-culturally. One is the unvoiced laminoalveo fricative[s], used to call someone’s attention (according to the situational context) in several cultures (e.g. [calling] a waiter in rather informal Spanish places), or to specifically call a Spanish woman’s attention on the street, with two short hisses, etc. represented ‘Sss!’, which can be written ‘Sss!’ or ‘SSss!’ and referred to as ‘to hiss’ or ‘a hiss’.”
Well…obviously.
To clarify, the Sss! sound (“Hey, come here, good lookin’!” or “Hey, can you PLEASE get me another drink?”) should not be confused with Ssshhhhh! (“Hey, we’re in a CHURCH for cryin’ out loud – can you please shut the hell up?!”) Both sounds convey very different meanings and confusing the two can get you in trouble (I mean, do you really want to tell the waiter to keep quiet when you’re trying to get your sangria refilled? I think not).
The Sss! that I experienced however, was slightly different. Apparently, hissing from elderly women is a medieval form of conveying disapproval. According to several reputable sources, in imitating the sounds of hissing serpents, these lovely ladies were simply letting me know that they were fully and unhappily cognizant of the fact that I am…..yes it’s true….. a demon.
Given the fact that I WAS awfully close to the cathedral at the time, it really explains a lot. Demons have no business hanging around churches (I mean, REALLY!) I clearly had overstepped my bounds, and won’t do it again. Sincere apologies that I forget to mention my true identity when I first posted this report.
Jun 6th, 2007, 03:24 PM
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Well I am glad you cleared that up, lol. I guess I can think of my hisses as approval.
In another thread about unhelpful, disdainful service people in Spain - did you experience any of this? I was seriously thinking about Barcelona and Lisbon next year, but that report has scared me off a little.
In another thread about unhelpful, disdainful service people in Spain - did you experience any of this? I was seriously thinking about Barcelona and Lisbon next year, but that report has scared me off a little.
Jun 6th, 2007, 03:48 PM
#35
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Wanted to say "Thanks!" to fishee and enroute for their great comments about solo experiences.
Barb - Yes, I saw that thread yesterday. I read several sites before I went to Spain, so I was prepared for this type of thing.
While a few servicepeople did appear to be indifferent, I didn't take it personally. I figured that they were probably tired of dealing with tourists all day long, and were just trying to get their jobs done.
Yes, there were times when everything went wrong, I was tired, and a curt reply caused me to start crying, but overall those moments were few and far between.
I actually encountered quite a number of people who went out of their way to help me - and those are the folks that I'll remember:
*the seemingly indifferent sales woman who ran after me in the pouring rain to offer me a plastic bag so my things wouldn't get wet - and then gave me a big smile.
*the front desk clerks and waiters at Hotel Europa who laughed at my bad jokes, even when they were clearly exhausted.
*the salesgirls who were very reserved at first, but who then laughed like crazy when I pantomimed, "I need hairspray or I will soon die."
While I liked Madrid better than Barcelona, I say yes, by all means go to Barcelona for a visit. The chocolate alone is worth it!
Barb - Yes, I saw that thread yesterday. I read several sites before I went to Spain, so I was prepared for this type of thing.
While a few servicepeople did appear to be indifferent, I didn't take it personally. I figured that they were probably tired of dealing with tourists all day long, and were just trying to get their jobs done.
Yes, there were times when everything went wrong, I was tired, and a curt reply caused me to start crying, but overall those moments were few and far between.
I actually encountered quite a number of people who went out of their way to help me - and those are the folks that I'll remember:
*the seemingly indifferent sales woman who ran after me in the pouring rain to offer me a plastic bag so my things wouldn't get wet - and then gave me a big smile.
*the front desk clerks and waiters at Hotel Europa who laughed at my bad jokes, even when they were clearly exhausted.
*the salesgirls who were very reserved at first, but who then laughed like crazy when I pantomimed, "I need hairspray or I will soon die."
While I liked Madrid better than Barcelona, I say yes, by all means go to Barcelona for a visit. The chocolate alone is worth it!
Jun 6th, 2007, 05:17 PM
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Magellan,
Having just returned from Madrid, (solo) I was interested in your well written and tongue in cheek report..but I have to admit I didn't laugh out loud until you identified the old ladies hissing as a medievial form of disdain for demons.
Well done !! lol
Having been in business in the states and having had to travel alone and eat alone for business, it never bothers me eating alone...although I must admit I didn't like the food in Spain...it was almost always unrecognizable and after seeing a humongous dead octopus in a butcher's window...I was rather cautious about what I was eating...especially tapas stuff - cause you really never knew what it was - bull's testicles or what?
I was so relieved to find a buffet around the corner from my hotel..where I stuffed myself (after two weeks of being fairly hungry and tired of pig, pig, pig) with lots of lettuce, tomatoes, and fixings and even their version of pizza.
I've traveled solo to Paris and to Spain and I also was fortunate enough, (I'm also very friendly) to run into other tourists: one a gal from Copenhagen also traveling solo who joined me for the day of siteseeing, lunch and dinner, and another couple of gals from Vienna and we just hit it off, talked, walked and had dinner together.
I travel solo when I can't find anyone else who wants to go also, and I refuse to sit home and let time pass until I'm not able to get up and go anymore !! No, no,no. But truthfully I would rather travel with someone else, it's much more fun I think to have someone, simpatico of course, to comment to as you sitesee I think.
Two more comments: 3 gals staying at my hotel in Madrid took the metro from the airport to the hotel. Not a good idea at all. A favorite pickpocket place is the metro. One gal had $1000 pickpocketed, another 400 pounds, and the third her entire wallet. For about $25 you can book a pick up at the airport and your hotel by a viator bus or in Madrid, aerocity I think.
Ah - the smoldering look. One night I went to a tapas place with two other ladies...and I was "decked out". I'm dark haired, olive skinned, and the other gals weren't. I turned around to find 4 men looking at me and discussing...so I turned away. I have quite a few years on you Magellan - although I do try not to show it, so I'm not sure what they were discussing!And maybe I'd be afraid to find out !
My second comment is in Lisbon do not look directly at a man. I was lunching with a male companion, but I was facing the door, at what seemed to be mostly a businessman's lunch place...very popular, and the fish was delicious - well, a man in his 50's walked in the door and I was people watching...he looked directly back at me and wiggled his eyebrows...and kept looking even when he was seated, although I was with a man - so I have learned not to look directly at men in foreign countries... apparently they take it as an invitation Ah - Italy. But that's another story.
And yes, a lot of people do ask you if you are traveling alone. Just curious I think - but some express surprise as if it's so unusual, or so brave. Maybe we're all just a rare daring breed.
Having just returned from Madrid, (solo) I was interested in your well written and tongue in cheek report..but I have to admit I didn't laugh out loud until you identified the old ladies hissing as a medievial form of disdain for demons.
Well done !! lol
Having been in business in the states and having had to travel alone and eat alone for business, it never bothers me eating alone...although I must admit I didn't like the food in Spain...it was almost always unrecognizable and after seeing a humongous dead octopus in a butcher's window...I was rather cautious about what I was eating...especially tapas stuff - cause you really never knew what it was - bull's testicles or what?
I was so relieved to find a buffet around the corner from my hotel..where I stuffed myself (after two weeks of being fairly hungry and tired of pig, pig, pig) with lots of lettuce, tomatoes, and fixings and even their version of pizza.
I've traveled solo to Paris and to Spain and I also was fortunate enough, (I'm also very friendly) to run into other tourists: one a gal from Copenhagen also traveling solo who joined me for the day of siteseeing, lunch and dinner, and another couple of gals from Vienna and we just hit it off, talked, walked and had dinner together.
I travel solo when I can't find anyone else who wants to go also, and I refuse to sit home and let time pass until I'm not able to get up and go anymore !! No, no,no. But truthfully I would rather travel with someone else, it's much more fun I think to have someone, simpatico of course, to comment to as you sitesee I think.
Two more comments: 3 gals staying at my hotel in Madrid took the metro from the airport to the hotel. Not a good idea at all. A favorite pickpocket place is the metro. One gal had $1000 pickpocketed, another 400 pounds, and the third her entire wallet. For about $25 you can book a pick up at the airport and your hotel by a viator bus or in Madrid, aerocity I think.
Ah - the smoldering look. One night I went to a tapas place with two other ladies...and I was "decked out". I'm dark haired, olive skinned, and the other gals weren't. I turned around to find 4 men looking at me and discussing...so I turned away. I have quite a few years on you Magellan - although I do try not to show it, so I'm not sure what they were discussing!And maybe I'd be afraid to find out !
My second comment is in Lisbon do not look directly at a man. I was lunching with a male companion, but I was facing the door, at what seemed to be mostly a businessman's lunch place...very popular, and the fish was delicious - well, a man in his 50's walked in the door and I was people watching...he looked directly back at me and wiggled his eyebrows...and kept looking even when he was seated, although I was with a man - so I have learned not to look directly at men in foreign countries... apparently they take it as an invitation
Ah - Italy. But that's another story.And yes, a lot of people do ask you if you are traveling alone. Just curious I think - but some express surprise as if it's so unusual, or so brave. Maybe we're all just a rare daring breed.
Jun 6th, 2007, 07:18 PM
#38
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Magellan you are killing me! The explanations re the hissing are hilarious...to add to your hissing for attention coment (as opposed to your demon hiss ) I have some Filipina friends who are always imitating their parents and their various hisses. As you mentioned they do it to get someone's attention.
But you on the otherhand might consider wering a blck onyx or something suitable for the evil eye.
But you on the otherhand might consider wering a blck onyx or something suitable for the evil eye.
Jun 7th, 2007, 06:06 AM
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Ok, I think this is the right thread for this question since Magellan has been so candid about her experience in Spain - do people wear flip flops often, or is that terribly unstylish (or low class)? I know it's stupid to worry about all the details, but I don't want to get hissed at by anyone! I'm going to Madrid, Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja and Granada for my honeymoon in September. My flip flops are the most comfortable shoes I have for walking around...so, what do you think? Are the flops safe?
