2d

We are just starting to plan our first trip to northern Spain. We are thinking of going next spring. We will be there for three weeks. We enjoy exploring the local cuisine, wineries, architecture, small hamlets, coast line (but not hanging out on the beach), local color. We are not fans of big hotels preferring small inns or B & B's. We have traveled to France and Italy. So far we want to include Barcelona and the nearby coast and then pick up a car and drive west to Basque country, Bilboa and the northwest coast area. We travel at a somewhat leisurely pace and would rather absorb the culture than try to cram in too much into an itinerary. Questions: Best time of year to go? Not-to-miss places? Best fishing hamlet near Barcelona? Is it worth it to include Madrid or would that be too much? Any suggestions to help us "discover" those hidden treasures (places, lodging, dining, wineries) would be greatly appreciated!

Robert2533

A lot of what you want to do will depend on how much time you have to enjoy yourselves. Personally, the best time to travel is after Easter, or in the early fall and during the fall harvest. La Rioja, the Basque Country, Navarra, Cantabria and Asturias can take two or three weeks just to get a feel for the area. It's a lot of country to cover, so a good plan is necessary.

Wm

Good feedback Robert. We will likely travel in May. We will have three weeks. Please respond to our question about Madrid--would it be best to just do Barcelona and the north to northwest region and not try to include Madrid?

Michael

These photos might give you an idea:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...p;tid=34672817

We covered that area in about 2 weeks. In addition, I would recommend Taüll in the Pyrenees and San Juan de la Peña farther west.

lincasanova

i think you have time to do madrid, or at least a day trip from a nearby town if you wish .

www.toprural.com
www.rusticae.com (more upscale charming inns)

i liked cudillero ( among others) on northern coast. very scenic village and had great hotel prices. we also checked out many small b+bīs we saw driving aorund the countryside.

if you donīt hit the may 1st holiday, you can probably do a lot of this with no reservations if that is how you like to travel.

Wm

Michael & lincasanova, thanks so much. How much time in Barcelona? I'm an architect so, of course, we want to see Gaudi's work, but how much time would it take to get a flavor of the city beyond architecture?

Wm

Michael

You'll need three days in Barcelona. Don't leave out the National Museum of Catalonia for its Romanesque frescoes. There are three tours that are a must: one is close to the Ramblas and is of the mansion of Gaudi's patron, one is of the Gaudi apartments, and one is of the Palau de la Musica.

Robert2533

There are some excellent on-line guides to help in planning for your trip to Barcelona, Madrid and the Basque Country. Some are better than others, but all will provide you with some useful information.

Here are some decent resources for you to check out:

http://www.basquecountry-tourism.com/home.php
http://www.pyreneesguide.com/
http://maribelsguides.com/
http://www.innsofspain.com/?r=5
http://www.secretplaces.com/
http://www.euskadi.net/r33-2220/es/
http://www.donostia.org/CAT/Home.nsf/fwbienvenida
http://www.munimadrid.es/Principal/ingles/portada.html
http://www.aboutbarcelona.com/
http://www.barcelonaturisme.com/
http://www.bcn.es/english/ihome.htm

I hope this helps.

weber6560

After BCN I'd head for San Sebastian and just begin working my west. You can simply jump on and off the main road running over to the coast or inland to the mountains. Hot the small towns both places. Among my favorites are Llanes, Luarca and Potes. The La Coruna/Santiago de Compostela area is filled with great places to poke about. You might be able to work Madrid in on this trip but probably at the expense of rushing elsewhere. I took a bit over two weeks to go from Santiago to San Sebastian.

lincasanova

rafael moneo is one of my favoirte spanish architects.
he has buildings all over.
go to www.greatbuildings.com and you probably can find his list.

there is an exhibit at the MOMA this month about spanish contemporary architecture.

some spectacular wineries are being built up north by well known architects. sorry i can' tell you where the finished ones are. will have to research it.

jebb6

I arrive in Barcelona on a Monday morning and am planning on flying to Bilbao either thursday night or friday morning and spending time in the north until the following Monday (with Bilbao as my base). I was thinking of spending one day in Bilbao (musuem) and then bus to San Sebastien for day trip and then day trip to Lagaurdia (La Rioja) if there is bus or train that goes there. Does that sound like it will work. Is Bilbao a good base if I only need to spend one day there (I just hate moving around from one hotel to another)? Does anyone know of any hiking near any of those destinations?

2d

Is there a good town to "home base" in Basque area rather than Bilbao? We prefer staying in one place for about three days and then drive to surrounding places of interest. Bilbao sounds like an industrial city with it's main attraction being the museum. I do want to see the museum, but would rather stay in a more interesting town or out in the country.

Robert2533

Bilbao is hardly the "industrial city" it once was (Franco era). It a vibrant city with a great nightlife and is beginning to challenge San Sebastian-Donostia in its outstanding cuisine. The city has at least 14 other major museums besides the Guggenheim, which is not bad. It has a great "old city" and the probably the best public transportation system in Spain.

I see no reason not use Bilbao as a base to tour the area. The GDHB is by far the best major hotel in the Basque Country and a great place to use as your base during your ever so brief stay.

lincasanova

to eat at the guggenheim restaurant, reservations are a MUST. and i do recommend it.
there are very few tables and they are booked far in advance.

there is a menu of the day restaurant, and an a la carte section.

the menu of the day is about 15-17 euros and quite good.

the website is www.martinberastegui.com

also, the ariport bus takes you into the heart of bilbao and makes a stop across from the guggenheim, and another up in a plaza.

i enjoyed our stays at the jardines de albia hotel.

www.husa.es (hotel's website)

www.gtahotels.com (will include breakfast and tax if available usually at this website)

www.rumbo.es also has great hotel rates now, not just flights.

we were able to get very good rates there (50 /60 euros) everytime we went. it is a lovely 4 star with spa in basement, and has bikes for rent.

it is walking distance to guggenheim, and on river walk, not far from old town either.

enjoy!

annhig

Dear 2d, you might like to think about Burgos, [especially its cathedral] Valladolid [amazing museum of sculpture] Leon,[to sleep in the parador which is an old abbey with complete with cloisters and linen sheets!] in Northern Spain, and Salamanca, a bit further south, which is simply stunning, especially the plaza major. In May, you probably could get by without booking, especially if you are prepared to sleep some of the time in small "hostals" rather than hotels. You still get your own bathroom [we did, and that was 20 years ago]. Good luck.

Wm

Thanks to all of you for the feedback. Does anyone have small hotel or b&b suggestions for Madrid and Barcelona?

Robert2533

What's your budget for the hotels in Madrid and Barcelona? Madrid's not big on B&B's in the traditional style.

Small luxury hotels like the Orfila, a Relais & Chateaux member, with 32 rooms, can run you around 380 euros/night and up for a double room. The Casa de Madrid, another small hotel, starts at 260 euros/night for a double and is quite the place to hang out for a few days.

Other excellent small hotels in Madrid include the AC Aitana, Hotel Abalu (a true, inexpensive B&B). The Hotel Santo Mauro is an excellent choice for pure class in a small hotel. There is also the Hotel Adler (40 rooms) and the Hotel Los Jeronimos (25 rooms).

In Barcelona you can try the Hotel Cram (a Rusticae property with 67 rooms), the Hotel Duquesa de Cardona (44 rooms), the Hotel Neri (another Rusticae property with only 22 rooms) and the Prestige Paseo de Gracia (45 rooms). Some of these properties can booked through "Inns of Spain" or "Secret Places", or directly with the hotels themselves.

JWitt

I spent two weeks in Barcelona a year and a half ago and I loved it. I have no architecture backround but really enjoyed all of Gaudi's works. I think La Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, and the tour of La Pedrera along with a stroll through its surrounding neighborhood could easily warrant an entire day each if you do not want to rush. Also, another day for walking through the Gothic Quarter which would include the Gothic Cathredral is another day. I took a day to visit Montserrat and absolutely loved it. A stroll along the relatively newly renovated beach front and lunch could eat up another half a day. Don't forget to factor in long lunches from the "Menus Del Dia" which include a starter, main meal, dessert, coffee, and FREE WINE REFILLS, followed by many shops and museums closing for the afternoon.

I rented an apartment in Barceloneta which, if memory serves, cost about 700 Euros for the two weeks. I used www.holidaysinbarcelona.com. The apartment was moderately clean and well located 2 blocks from the beach, 10 min walk to the Metro, and 15 min walk to the bottom of Las Ramblas. The only sketchiness was that the company changed our apartment at the last minute. The one they gave us did not look as modern as the one we had chosen on the website but it did have an extra bedroom (worthless to me and my ex at the time). It also had a kitchen and clothes washer. I think my favorite place that I ate (for the super laid back atmosphere, inexpensiveness, and good, interesting food) was The Arc Cafe. I t wasn't particularly Barcelonian food-wise but very much so for it's hip, diverse, relaxed atmosphere.

I would have liked to have seen other areas such as the Basque region, Madrid, and the South but ultimately I was very happy with the choices and pace I laid out for myself. As many people told me during my planning stages, "You can't go wrong anywhere in Spain." Have a great trip!

JWitt

Oh yes, and don't forget shoe shopping and the market just off of Las Ramblas!