Travelling on my Daughter’s Coat Tails around Spain and France.
Aug 20th, 2009, 11:25 PM
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Travelling on my Daughter’s Coat Tails around Spain and France.
<i>Long winded Introduction – mostly ramblings of middle aged mother of 3. </i>
Standing on a cold and windy oval in Sydney at the end of June, watching 30 teenagers tumble around the mud and chasing an odd shaped ball I finally allowed myself to become excited about our holiday. I could relax. I had planned and reviewed and re-planned and booked and now all I had to do was get to the airport and get on the plane. In just a few hours I would be on my way to see my daughter. I would also be on my way to Europe in summer for the first time in my life. “Mmmmm sun will be nice” I say to myself.
This trip, or a trip at this time, had been on the cards for over two years. Cut to January 2006 when my daughter receives better than expected results in her HSC (final school exams to all non- New South Welshmen out there). Having absorbed the pride and glory of producing at least one offspring who I could brag about in academic fields, I realized something more important. She could choose nearly any university course she wanted. And the course she chose was a combined Communications and International Studies degree. The International Studies part was the interesting one. It involved living overseas for a year. And of course that involved her mother visiting her.
So various decisions were made over the years, and it was finally it was settled. DD would live in Malaga Spain for a year. So about this time last year I started planning the trip to visit her in the middle of her summer break. Originally it was to be a mother /daughter trip and so I called for ideas from the Fodorites. My idea was to be that DD would get to have a holiday in Europe that she might not take herself -or at least not pay for herself. It needed to have plenty of down time so that we could just enjoy being with each other but ideally be somewhere beautiful and interesting. The places that were attracting me most were the Dordogne in France and San Sebastian, Spain-thanks mostly to the wise words of people on this board – especially Zeppole and StCirq for their inspirations (different of course but both valuable).
Somewhere along the line DH decided that he really did not want to miss out on things. Since my youngest son at 15 is too young to be left on his own and even though 18 year old son did not want to come the trip changed changed from mother /daughter to (nearly) family trip. Oh well, the more the merrier, and costlier.
So I made some early bookings at the end of 2008. I booked flights – in and out of Paris on Emirates; I then booked the Dordogne – lovely looking country house that sleeps 8. Perfect. “Hang on” says DH, “why did you book a house that sleeps 8” (and costs more with the sinking Aussie dollar – thanks GFC that has nothing to do with us). Well I could not believe that DS18 would not change his mind. DD might have friends who will join us so I booked a larger house just to be safe. Anyway DH was trying to be brave but decided that we needed to share the joy with someone. So he asked my sister and her family to join us in France. For 10 years we took our summer beach holidays with them until the kids got older and started getting important commitments like swimming in National carnivals (her kids) and being in Sydney for New Year’s Eve (my kids) so for the last 6 years we have not spent as much time with them. So they said yes they would come. Great! Then GFC hits again, my high flying, high earning lawyer brother in law starts to panic that all his money will be gone and they can’t possible afford it this year. I would have to go on and plan a trip without them. But of course we had by this stage paid for the 8 bed house in the Dordogne.
Meanwhile my DD left for her yearlong adventure and the only way I could stop missing her was to plan our reunion.
So I planned the trip to be :
• 5 nights Paris
• 1 night Lourdes (don’t ask)
• 3 nights San Sebastian (yeah!)
• 3 nights Pamplona (nervous about this decision)
• 1 night not sure where but thinking of watching Tour de France
• 7 nights Dordogne
• 3 nights Barcelona
• 5 nights Malaga
All booked and half paid for 1 month before we were to leave. Then my sister calls. She could sell a European trip to her husband if it included visiting Barcelona. GFC forgotten! They would have to go there first but they could meet us in the Dordogne. Everybody happy. Off we go to Europe!
Standing on a cold and windy oval in Sydney at the end of June, watching 30 teenagers tumble around the mud and chasing an odd shaped ball I finally allowed myself to become excited about our holiday. I could relax. I had planned and reviewed and re-planned and booked and now all I had to do was get to the airport and get on the plane. In just a few hours I would be on my way to see my daughter. I would also be on my way to Europe in summer for the first time in my life. “Mmmmm sun will be nice” I say to myself.
This trip, or a trip at this time, had been on the cards for over two years. Cut to January 2006 when my daughter receives better than expected results in her HSC (final school exams to all non- New South Welshmen out there). Having absorbed the pride and glory of producing at least one offspring who I could brag about in academic fields, I realized something more important. She could choose nearly any university course she wanted. And the course she chose was a combined Communications and International Studies degree. The International Studies part was the interesting one. It involved living overseas for a year. And of course that involved her mother visiting her.
So various decisions were made over the years, and it was finally it was settled. DD would live in Malaga Spain for a year. So about this time last year I started planning the trip to visit her in the middle of her summer break. Originally it was to be a mother /daughter trip and so I called for ideas from the Fodorites. My idea was to be that DD would get to have a holiday in Europe that she might not take herself -or at least not pay for herself. It needed to have plenty of down time so that we could just enjoy being with each other but ideally be somewhere beautiful and interesting. The places that were attracting me most were the Dordogne in France and San Sebastian, Spain-thanks mostly to the wise words of people on this board – especially Zeppole and StCirq for their inspirations (different of course but both valuable).
Somewhere along the line DH decided that he really did not want to miss out on things. Since my youngest son at 15 is too young to be left on his own and even though 18 year old son did not want to come the trip changed changed from mother /daughter to (nearly) family trip. Oh well, the more the merrier, and costlier.
So I made some early bookings at the end of 2008. I booked flights – in and out of Paris on Emirates; I then booked the Dordogne – lovely looking country house that sleeps 8. Perfect. “Hang on” says DH, “why did you book a house that sleeps 8” (and costs more with the sinking Aussie dollar – thanks GFC that has nothing to do with us). Well I could not believe that DS18 would not change his mind. DD might have friends who will join us so I booked a larger house just to be safe. Anyway DH was trying to be brave but decided that we needed to share the joy with someone. So he asked my sister and her family to join us in France. For 10 years we took our summer beach holidays with them until the kids got older and started getting important commitments like swimming in National carnivals (her kids) and being in Sydney for New Year’s Eve (my kids) so for the last 6 years we have not spent as much time with them. So they said yes they would come. Great! Then GFC hits again, my high flying, high earning lawyer brother in law starts to panic that all his money will be gone and they can’t possible afford it this year. I would have to go on and plan a trip without them. But of course we had by this stage paid for the 8 bed house in the Dordogne.
Meanwhile my DD left for her yearlong adventure and the only way I could stop missing her was to plan our reunion.
So I planned the trip to be :
• 5 nights Paris
• 1 night Lourdes (don’t ask)
• 3 nights San Sebastian (yeah!)
• 3 nights Pamplona (nervous about this decision)
• 1 night not sure where but thinking of watching Tour de France
• 7 nights Dordogne
• 3 nights Barcelona
• 5 nights Malaga
All booked and half paid for 1 month before we were to leave. Then my sister calls. She could sell a European trip to her husband if it included visiting Barcelona. GFC forgotten! They would have to go there first but they could meet us in the Dordogne. Everybody happy. Off we go to Europe!
Aug 21st, 2009, 02:44 AM
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Hey Aussiefive, on with the show!!! I've also stood on a cold and wind oval watching young boys tear around an oval, and on freezing cold netball courts at 8am in the winter!!
Your trip report sounds as though it will be fabulous. Bring it on.......
Your trip report sounds as though it will be fabulous. Bring it on.......
Aug 21st, 2009, 09:16 AM
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I'm glad your sister's husband changed his mind.
DH and I are heading to France next week and he's already told me he's worried about our finances. I almost told him "we can't take it with us when we die" but thought better of it.
Your report sounds like it's going to be one of the very best. Proceed please.
Evelyn
DH and I are heading to France next week and he's already told me he's worried about our finances. I almost told him "we can't take it with us when we die" but thought better of it.
Your report sounds like it's going to be one of the very best. Proceed please.
Evelyn
Aug 21st, 2009, 01:22 PM
#13
You can't take it with you is right. We lost alot of money last year when the U.S. stock market went down. Did we cancel our trip last year and again this year to France? No way! At least we will know where the money went.
To us the big expense is air & lodging. Anything after that you probably would spend at home anyway.
Can't wait for Chapter 2.
To us the big expense is air & lodging. Anything after that you probably would spend at home anyway.
Can't wait for Chapter 2.
Aug 21st, 2009, 04:12 PM
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Oh the pressure of a readership! Thank you so much for your kind encouragement. You will have to be patient with me, I have a lot goign on in my life right now, but I will type as fast as I can.
<i>Paris a trios – still no daughter!</i>
When I booked the tickets I had arranged to arrive on the 28th of June, a Sunday. DD had tickets to the Glastonbury Festival which finished on the 28th so she could meet us the same day or at least early the next day right? Wrong, of course. Her friends booked the transport or should I say forgot to book the transport until the only bus available out of Glastonbury was the last bus. Too late for a Eurostar on the 29th even so it meant DD would not be arriving until the 30th.
So three of us (DH, DS15 and myself) arrive in Paris after a relaxing 24 hours spent in a metal tube at 30,000 feet with a short break in Dubai airport. Try as I might I cannot hate long haul flights. And flying on the Emirates A380 even in economy was a joy. Good service, quiet smooth flight, literally 100s of movies and TV shows to choose from. It was great. Even landing at CDG was okay. Customs was quick and painless, our bags were already on the belt when we moved into the baggage haul. The signs to the RER were obvious. It is all too easy.
I had booked an apartment in the Marais.
http://homepage.mac.com/architectsma...otoAlbum1.html
The truly lovely Irish owner had sent me excellent directions on how to get there by RER from the airport along with the key, about 2 weeks before we arrived. We had a slight hiccup buying the tickets as my Visa did not seem to want to work in the ticket machine but luckily DH’s Mastercard did. So with tickets in hand we went to the platform to wait for the train. Luckily we brought DS because he noticed that despite the fact that there was a small crowd waiting for the train at one end of the platform, the train was actually sitting at the other end of the platform, and it was ready to go. Quick run! We made it and had any easy trip to Gare du Nord then change to the metro and alight (I love that word) at St Paul. A very short walk to find our apartment building which is exactly where Irish owner had said it would be, walk through the courtyard, up 3 flights of stairs, try the key which works on the second go, and we are home (well at least home for the next 5 days).
We showered and relaxed, but not for long because we had to go to our first engagement in Paris. An evening Segway tour under the stars.
People always advise you to get the kids involved in the planning for a trip. It will help them enjoy it more. Well DS is well travelled for a 15 year old and had even been to Paris before but he was only too happy to contribute this idea to the planning.
It is expensive, it is touristy but it is fun. It was a perfect way to start a trip to Paris, even if we had seen all the sights before.
I had planned to catch the metro to Trocodero so we could get our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower from there. We walked out of the metro and all DH and DS could think of was their stomachs. So after buying Nutella crepes and hot dogs I said “walk a few paces to the right and look up”. “What?” says deaf DH, but DS had already done as his mother advised (good boy). "Wow we really are in Paris".
We walked amongst the buskers and the African souvenir sellers, watched people swimming in the fountains (I swear someone was even doing laps!) and DS asked “Why do I not remember it like this?”
“Because it is summer and there are actually people out on the streets.” I answer.
Our previous trips had been in winter, and whilst it is great to see places without crowds, the people give the place energy. We were hooked on summer.
We wandered down to the base of the Eiffel Tower, past the impromptu Michael Jackson tribute, to meet our Fat Bike Tours guide. While waiting we fell for the “do you speak English?” trick and quickly realized that these people were asking us for money. We sized up our fellow tour group from a small distance – two mothers with teenage daughters and a single middle aged woman. I think the price of the tours lead to that demographic mix! We were all a little nervous starting off but really the Segways are very easy to manage, I am a kluts and I could do it. Anyway the tour was a great way to spend four hours and I would do it again at some stage.
The tour finished at 10.30pm (just getting dark) and we had one more thing to do for the day because it was our wedding anniversary. DH insisted that we always go out to dinner on our anniversary and this year would be no different. DS felt a little weird accompanying us but what could he do? We held back on the hand holding or gooey eye staring just for him.
We dined at Bofinger which I had booked online. I chose this restaurant because it promised to be open to 1am, had decent reviews, seemed to be typically French and it was in walking distance from our apartment. It ticked all the boxes and we enjoyed it very much, walking home at 1am in the morning on the quiet streets was a magical start to the holiday.
We promised DS a sleep in the next morning but were up and raring to go at 9am. Our apartment was conveniently located at the end of rue des Rosiers and right above Le Loir dans la Théière (the doormouse in the teapot) where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast.
After dragging DS out of bed we followed the Paris City walks cards around Ile St-Louis on to Ile del la Cite to see the back side of the Notre Dame and then on to Place de Bastille for our afternoon activity – a cruise on the Canal St Martin. The day was hot and sunny and after the energy of the previous day(s) we just wanted to chill. The cruise was well worth it. It takes 2 hours, which suited us because we didn’t really want to walk and it was hot. We finished in the Parc Villette where wandered around a bit. Unfortunately it was a Monday so the museums were shut (but I think DS was secretly pretty happy with this).
We metro’d back to Bastille and walked back to our apartment via Place des Vosges. Our time in Place des Vosge was insignificant as a tourist stop yet remains one of the more beautiful moments in Paris. The Place was full in the early evening with groups sitting on the grass chatting. We found a clear spot and did the same- just lying there eavesdropping watching dozing was so peaceful.
That night was the last to be spent as a threesome until our homeward journey. We were all excited about meeting DD the next day. I get goosebumps just thinking about it even now......
<i>Paris a trios – still no daughter!</i>
When I booked the tickets I had arranged to arrive on the 28th of June, a Sunday. DD had tickets to the Glastonbury Festival which finished on the 28th so she could meet us the same day or at least early the next day right? Wrong, of course. Her friends booked the transport or should I say forgot to book the transport until the only bus available out of Glastonbury was the last bus. Too late for a Eurostar on the 29th even so it meant DD would not be arriving until the 30th.
So three of us (DH, DS15 and myself) arrive in Paris after a relaxing 24 hours spent in a metal tube at 30,000 feet with a short break in Dubai airport. Try as I might I cannot hate long haul flights. And flying on the Emirates A380 even in economy was a joy. Good service, quiet smooth flight, literally 100s of movies and TV shows to choose from. It was great. Even landing at CDG was okay. Customs was quick and painless, our bags were already on the belt when we moved into the baggage haul. The signs to the RER were obvious. It is all too easy.
I had booked an apartment in the Marais.
http://homepage.mac.com/architectsma...otoAlbum1.html
The truly lovely Irish owner had sent me excellent directions on how to get there by RER from the airport along with the key, about 2 weeks before we arrived. We had a slight hiccup buying the tickets as my Visa did not seem to want to work in the ticket machine but luckily DH’s Mastercard did. So with tickets in hand we went to the platform to wait for the train. Luckily we brought DS because he noticed that despite the fact that there was a small crowd waiting for the train at one end of the platform, the train was actually sitting at the other end of the platform, and it was ready to go. Quick run! We made it and had any easy trip to Gare du Nord then change to the metro and alight (I love that word) at St Paul. A very short walk to find our apartment building which is exactly where Irish owner had said it would be, walk through the courtyard, up 3 flights of stairs, try the key which works on the second go, and we are home (well at least home for the next 5 days).
We showered and relaxed, but not for long because we had to go to our first engagement in Paris. An evening Segway tour under the stars.
People always advise you to get the kids involved in the planning for a trip. It will help them enjoy it more. Well DS is well travelled for a 15 year old and had even been to Paris before but he was only too happy to contribute this idea to the planning.
It is expensive, it is touristy but it is fun. It was a perfect way to start a trip to Paris, even if we had seen all the sights before.
I had planned to catch the metro to Trocodero so we could get our first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower from there. We walked out of the metro and all DH and DS could think of was their stomachs. So after buying Nutella crepes and hot dogs I said “walk a few paces to the right and look up”. “What?” says deaf DH, but DS had already done as his mother advised (good boy). "Wow we really are in Paris".
We walked amongst the buskers and the African souvenir sellers, watched people swimming in the fountains (I swear someone was even doing laps!) and DS asked “Why do I not remember it like this?”
“Because it is summer and there are actually people out on the streets.” I answer.
Our previous trips had been in winter, and whilst it is great to see places without crowds, the people give the place energy. We were hooked on summer.
We wandered down to the base of the Eiffel Tower, past the impromptu Michael Jackson tribute, to meet our Fat Bike Tours guide. While waiting we fell for the “do you speak English?” trick and quickly realized that these people were asking us for money. We sized up our fellow tour group from a small distance – two mothers with teenage daughters and a single middle aged woman. I think the price of the tours lead to that demographic mix! We were all a little nervous starting off but really the Segways are very easy to manage, I am a kluts and I could do it. Anyway the tour was a great way to spend four hours and I would do it again at some stage.
The tour finished at 10.30pm (just getting dark) and we had one more thing to do for the day because it was our wedding anniversary. DH insisted that we always go out to dinner on our anniversary and this year would be no different. DS felt a little weird accompanying us but what could he do? We held back on the hand holding or gooey eye staring just for him.
We dined at Bofinger which I had booked online. I chose this restaurant because it promised to be open to 1am, had decent reviews, seemed to be typically French and it was in walking distance from our apartment. It ticked all the boxes and we enjoyed it very much, walking home at 1am in the morning on the quiet streets was a magical start to the holiday.
We promised DS a sleep in the next morning but were up and raring to go at 9am. Our apartment was conveniently located at the end of rue des Rosiers and right above Le Loir dans la Théière (the doormouse in the teapot) where we enjoyed a delicious breakfast.
After dragging DS out of bed we followed the Paris City walks cards around Ile St-Louis on to Ile del la Cite to see the back side of the Notre Dame and then on to Place de Bastille for our afternoon activity – a cruise on the Canal St Martin. The day was hot and sunny and after the energy of the previous day(s) we just wanted to chill. The cruise was well worth it. It takes 2 hours, which suited us because we didn’t really want to walk and it was hot. We finished in the Parc Villette where wandered around a bit. Unfortunately it was a Monday so the museums were shut (but I think DS was secretly pretty happy with this).
We metro’d back to Bastille and walked back to our apartment via Place des Vosges. Our time in Place des Vosge was insignificant as a tourist stop yet remains one of the more beautiful moments in Paris. The Place was full in the early evening with groups sitting on the grass chatting. We found a clear spot and did the same- just lying there eavesdropping watching dozing was so peaceful.
That night was the last to be spent as a threesome until our homeward journey. We were all excited about meeting DD the next day. I get goosebumps just thinking about it even now......
Aug 23rd, 2009, 11:53 PM
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<i>Stumbling around Paris</i>
Needless to say I did not sleep well that night. I know my daughter is well and truly an adult; I know she is living successfully by herself in Europe and managing to get herself all around the place by herself with no trouble; I know she just completed the 790km Camino de Santiago de Compostela on her own; but somehow after 21 years I still forget that I do not need to worry about her. Earlier, I had messaged her to check that she had in fact booked herself on the 8.30 am Eurostar so we could be sure that we were at Gard du Nord to meet her. I had not given her the address of the apartment –probably silly. Well of course she didn’t reply back. I rationalized that this could be for any simple reason – no coverage in UK, but I think I had spoken to her when she was in England before; no phone credit? – most likely, she never wants to spend her money on that– abducted by white slave traders?- okay now you are being ridiculous. Okay, back to option 2. She mustn’t have any credit. I will just call her, have a quick conversation and I will be sure about the details for the morning and I can go to sleep. Great, but she doesn’t answer. Not immediately and not for the 12 other times I tried to call on a variety of phone options. Finally after much begging from DH I went to sleep assuming that she would turn up at the appointed time alive and well.
And what do you know, she did. Our reunion at Gare du Nord was fabulous, tears and hugs all around. I had bought some bread cheese, pate and salad items for a lunch in the apartment. We spent most of the day catching up, oh and washing her clothes, before we headed out for an afternoon activity that I had organized.
Months and months before, I had written to Paris Greeters - http://www.parisgreeter.org -asking for a walking tour. These are free walks conducted by volunteers who like to show visitors their own part of Paris. I had almost forgotten about them until just a few days before we were to leave I received an email saying that we could take a tour on the 30th in the afternoon around the 12th arrondissement. Since my personal aim was to try to see different things in Paris this time and I had never been in this area I jumped at it.
We were to meet our guide, Olivier, in the Place de la Nation at 4.30pm. Before going there we stopped at the Musee Carnavalet which I found reasonably interesting but not as good as I was expecting after the great reviews I had read. I think the visit may have been improved if I did not have a bored 15 year old in tow and if the place was air conditioned. As it was I had neither the time nor inclination to read all the detail that would have made the museum more worthwhile.
We were a little early when we arrived at Place de la Nation so we sat in a bar within sight of the monument. At exactly 4.30pm we spied a young man loitering near the appointed place and we wandered up to him. Olivier walked us around the area, explaining historical points of significance (that mainly related to some sort of guillotining) and some of what I had learnt in the Musee Carnavalet started to slot into place. He also explained some of the basics of Paris architecture which was helpful for all of us. After a bit he walked us along Promenade Plantee. This is a stretch of disused railway line, much of it along a viaduct, which has been converted into an elevated walkway and planted with trees and flowers. It was a cool and pretty way of walking back to Place de la Bastille. Parisiens were enjoying the summer evening, lying in the sun, playing ball games or occasionally jogging and I thought that if I lived in paris this is somewhere I would come every day.
At the end of our walk we wanted to tip Olivier but he did not feel comfortable taking a tip. So we suggested a drink instead which he accepted. He took us to a popular bar near Place de la Bastille where we had a drink (okay 3 drinks) with Olivier.
Drinks turned into dinner, which was conveniently also served in the bar. Olivier by this stage decided that he really should go home, before we decided to visit the Eiffel Tower. By the time we arrived at the Eiffel Tower it was after 10pm but this was probably a good move. There was hardly a queue at all. It meant that we could not go all the way to the top but this did not bother any of us, since we had done that on a previous trip to Paris. We looked at the magical sight of the Paris lights under the twinkle of the tower before finally exhaustion hit us all. We wanted to go to bed, and we wanted to go to bed now! We thought we would taxi back to the apartment but the taxi queues looked too long. We decided to walk up to Trocadero and wait there. Impatiently we waited for a cab but in what seemed like hours, but was probably only minutes we still had not gotten one. So we walked to the metro. We walked down the long underground passageways to our station and on to a train. Phew, one change and we would be home.
But of course we were not to be that lucky. While waiting at Charles de Gaulle Etoile we hear an announcement. A few people moved but most people just stood there. DH (the man with no grasp of the French language) says I think that means there are no trains. “no” I say ”look how many people are waiting”. “They are probably all tourists like us” and just as DH says this, a young Scandinavian man with perfect English but no French asks us if we know what is going on? Well we don’t but we are pretty sure there by now that there are no more trains. So we walk back along the underground passageway out onto Champs Elysee. Thankfully we find a taxi straight away. Back to the Marais we go at 100 miles an hour (literally) and fall into bed.
Needless to say I did not sleep well that night. I know my daughter is well and truly an adult; I know she is living successfully by herself in Europe and managing to get herself all around the place by herself with no trouble; I know she just completed the 790km Camino de Santiago de Compostela on her own; but somehow after 21 years I still forget that I do not need to worry about her. Earlier, I had messaged her to check that she had in fact booked herself on the 8.30 am Eurostar so we could be sure that we were at Gard du Nord to meet her. I had not given her the address of the apartment –probably silly. Well of course she didn’t reply back. I rationalized that this could be for any simple reason – no coverage in UK, but I think I had spoken to her when she was in England before; no phone credit? – most likely, she never wants to spend her money on that– abducted by white slave traders?- okay now you are being ridiculous. Okay, back to option 2. She mustn’t have any credit. I will just call her, have a quick conversation and I will be sure about the details for the morning and I can go to sleep. Great, but she doesn’t answer. Not immediately and not for the 12 other times I tried to call on a variety of phone options. Finally after much begging from DH I went to sleep assuming that she would turn up at the appointed time alive and well.
And what do you know, she did. Our reunion at Gare du Nord was fabulous, tears and hugs all around. I had bought some bread cheese, pate and salad items for a lunch in the apartment. We spent most of the day catching up, oh and washing her clothes, before we headed out for an afternoon activity that I had organized.
Months and months before, I had written to Paris Greeters - http://www.parisgreeter.org -asking for a walking tour. These are free walks conducted by volunteers who like to show visitors their own part of Paris. I had almost forgotten about them until just a few days before we were to leave I received an email saying that we could take a tour on the 30th in the afternoon around the 12th arrondissement. Since my personal aim was to try to see different things in Paris this time and I had never been in this area I jumped at it.
We were to meet our guide, Olivier, in the Place de la Nation at 4.30pm. Before going there we stopped at the Musee Carnavalet which I found reasonably interesting but not as good as I was expecting after the great reviews I had read. I think the visit may have been improved if I did not have a bored 15 year old in tow and if the place was air conditioned. As it was I had neither the time nor inclination to read all the detail that would have made the museum more worthwhile.
We were a little early when we arrived at Place de la Nation so we sat in a bar within sight of the monument. At exactly 4.30pm we spied a young man loitering near the appointed place and we wandered up to him. Olivier walked us around the area, explaining historical points of significance (that mainly related to some sort of guillotining) and some of what I had learnt in the Musee Carnavalet started to slot into place. He also explained some of the basics of Paris architecture which was helpful for all of us. After a bit he walked us along Promenade Plantee. This is a stretch of disused railway line, much of it along a viaduct, which has been converted into an elevated walkway and planted with trees and flowers. It was a cool and pretty way of walking back to Place de la Bastille. Parisiens were enjoying the summer evening, lying in the sun, playing ball games or occasionally jogging and I thought that if I lived in paris this is somewhere I would come every day.
At the end of our walk we wanted to tip Olivier but he did not feel comfortable taking a tip. So we suggested a drink instead which he accepted. He took us to a popular bar near Place de la Bastille where we had a drink (okay 3 drinks) with Olivier.
Drinks turned into dinner, which was conveniently also served in the bar. Olivier by this stage decided that he really should go home, before we decided to visit the Eiffel Tower. By the time we arrived at the Eiffel Tower it was after 10pm but this was probably a good move. There was hardly a queue at all. It meant that we could not go all the way to the top but this did not bother any of us, since we had done that on a previous trip to Paris. We looked at the magical sight of the Paris lights under the twinkle of the tower before finally exhaustion hit us all. We wanted to go to bed, and we wanted to go to bed now! We thought we would taxi back to the apartment but the taxi queues looked too long. We decided to walk up to Trocadero and wait there. Impatiently we waited for a cab but in what seemed like hours, but was probably only minutes we still had not gotten one. So we walked to the metro. We walked down the long underground passageways to our station and on to a train. Phew, one change and we would be home.
But of course we were not to be that lucky. While waiting at Charles de Gaulle Etoile we hear an announcement. A few people moved but most people just stood there. DH (the man with no grasp of the French language) says I think that means there are no trains. “no” I say ”look how many people are waiting”. “They are probably all tourists like us” and just as DH says this, a young Scandinavian man with perfect English but no French asks us if we know what is going on? Well we don’t but we are pretty sure there by now that there are no more trains. So we walk back along the underground passageway out onto Champs Elysee. Thankfully we find a taxi straight away. Back to the Marais we go at 100 miles an hour (literally) and fall into bed.
Aug 24th, 2009, 02:41 AM
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<i>"We looked at the magical sight of the Paris lights under the twinkle of the tower ..."</i>
Perfect.
And I'm so glad your daughter arrived as expected. I had that same uneasiness when our daughter was meeting us in Paris a couple of years ago. She was flying from Copenhagen and we were flying from Canada and there were winter storms and ... well, you get the picture.
Looking forward to more.
Perfect.
And I'm so glad your daughter arrived as expected. I had that same uneasiness when our daughter was meeting us in Paris a couple of years ago. She was flying from Copenhagen and we were flying from Canada and there were winter storms and ... well, you get the picture.
Looking forward to more.
