Venice/Croatia Trip Report
Sep 7th, 2007, 04:24 PM
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Venice/Croatia Trip Report
Since I got so much help from this forum, I wanted to quickly post after returning from Venice and Croatia. Used FF tickets from Washington to fly into Venice via Paris on AF and all went very smoothly. The reviews of Al Ponte Mocenigo were really great on Trip Advisor so decided to stay there since the neighborhood did not seem to be as crowded at others.
Walter at the hotel had recommended Trattoria al Ponte which was near the hotel. Charming canla-side location (across from La Zucca which we did not get to). Had a good dinner for 57e (for 2) which included appeitizers, house wine, seafood pasta and grilled sea bream which was delicious. Friendly, warm place.
Had bought the 72 hour vaperetto pass and used it for every time we decided not to walk. We had taken the bus to Venice itself then took the vaperetto to San Stae where the hotel was located.I loved the neighborhood because it wasn't as packed and touristy as other areas. When we went to San Marco at one point, I knew I would have hated staying in a hotel in the thick of packs of people and tour groups.
Did the standard Benice stuff---Rialto, San Marco but also walked around other parts more off the beaten track. At times it even felt like the city was empty. The fish market at Rialto was a real treat because of the vast range it offered---really worth seeing, more than the produce market which is more like many others. Found a wonderful Murano glass store (forget the name but apparently it is mentioned in Rick Steves book)---ended up purchasing more than we expected to do but hey, we were in Venice buying glass!
Had a good pizza dinner at Il Refolo but even more than the dinner, enjoyed the square it is located right near---classic Italian filled with families around 6:30,kids playing, ice cream eating, etc. Sampled many gelato places but honestly can't remember names---one good one was in Carneggio where we really took an out of the way walk around. Either Sandro or Walter at the hotel had suggested touring Palazzo Rezzonico which ended up being well worth going to, a lovely place and representative of homes of the period. While getting off the vaperetto to go there, a woman was asking directions to Campo San Marguerite (or something like that--well known). We also ended up going there and it again was a good area to walk around and also had a fun flea market selling beads, glass, etc.
Although we only had 2 days in Venice (1 full day, and 2 half days), we covered a lot of territory without feeling overwhelmed. I hadn't been to Venice in, well, hate to admit, but 30+ years! I loved it as much this time as I did the first and became concerned that maybe Croatia would be a letdown. It remains so overwhelmingly beautiful and at each turn, there is a new discovery. I did remember though that last time there were tons of cats running around. Asked at the hotel and apparently part of the reasonh is that the older ladies who used to tend to the cats have died off and the other reason is that having food in the streets for the cats is now against the law in order to curb rats.
After the great time in Venice, we took the train (one where we did not have to change in Bologna)to Ancona to head to Split. We almost got off at the wrong stop since a woman we were sitting near said that it was our stop (she meant well, I am sure!)---had to run back and reboard the train to the smirking faces of the conductors who clearly thought we were idiots. No matter, we got to Ancona! Stayed at the palace hotel there which was very nice and had a room overlooking the harbor. They recommended Osteria de Pozzo, a seafood restaurant that ended up being the best meal of the trip. A great place with amazing seafood at moderate prices--friendly, nice decor, etc. The dinner was about 44e and a real steal for what we had to eat--mujssels, clams, a huge cold seafood appetizer.
Took the Croatis Jet catamaran over to Split. Very calm initially, then rough seas in the middle with an attendant going around passing out plastic, you know what, bags. Fortunately, it ended, got clam again and we were in Split within walking distance of our hotel, The Peristil.
I took an immediate dislike to Split which probably wasn't fair. It was so crowded and filled with trashy flea marhet stalls around the palace area. It got better as we walked around more inside the gates. It rained a bit with some thunderstorms, but we were still able to walk around and ended up having dinner at the hotel's restaurant which was ok but not great.
The next morning was sunny and bright. We weren't leaving Split until 5pm and comnsidered leaving earlier. Instead decided to head to the bus station to get to Trogir. Loved it there---a pure delight to walk around. Some forum members had recommended Top Baloon so, when we were buying something at a stand, I asked if they knew the place. The woman commented that it was her favorite and told us how to get there. The pizza was, as described, really terrific. Walked around and easily caight the bus to get us back in time for the hotel catamaran.
I had been wavering between the PodSine and Amfora prior to departing. Decided on the AMfora which has been renovated but not totally. I booked the catamaran through them but didn't realize it was a separate catamaran only for the hotel and they take your bags directly to your room. Worked out well in all ways---the hotel is beautiful. Yes, the whole pool area isn't finished but you can see how spectaular it will be. The staff is really accomodating, the rooms are modern and stylish and the location and view are excellent. Wonderful sea views and a pleasant, short walk into town.
Well jet lag is catching up so more to follow.......
Walter at the hotel had recommended Trattoria al Ponte which was near the hotel. Charming canla-side location (across from La Zucca which we did not get to). Had a good dinner for 57e (for 2) which included appeitizers, house wine, seafood pasta and grilled sea bream which was delicious. Friendly, warm place.
Had bought the 72 hour vaperetto pass and used it for every time we decided not to walk. We had taken the bus to Venice itself then took the vaperetto to San Stae where the hotel was located.I loved the neighborhood because it wasn't as packed and touristy as other areas. When we went to San Marco at one point, I knew I would have hated staying in a hotel in the thick of packs of people and tour groups.
Did the standard Benice stuff---Rialto, San Marco but also walked around other parts more off the beaten track. At times it even felt like the city was empty. The fish market at Rialto was a real treat because of the vast range it offered---really worth seeing, more than the produce market which is more like many others. Found a wonderful Murano glass store (forget the name but apparently it is mentioned in Rick Steves book)---ended up purchasing more than we expected to do but hey, we were in Venice buying glass!
Had a good pizza dinner at Il Refolo but even more than the dinner, enjoyed the square it is located right near---classic Italian filled with families around 6:30,kids playing, ice cream eating, etc. Sampled many gelato places but honestly can't remember names---one good one was in Carneggio where we really took an out of the way walk around. Either Sandro or Walter at the hotel had suggested touring Palazzo Rezzonico which ended up being well worth going to, a lovely place and representative of homes of the period. While getting off the vaperetto to go there, a woman was asking directions to Campo San Marguerite (or something like that--well known). We also ended up going there and it again was a good area to walk around and also had a fun flea market selling beads, glass, etc.
Although we only had 2 days in Venice (1 full day, and 2 half days), we covered a lot of territory without feeling overwhelmed. I hadn't been to Venice in, well, hate to admit, but 30+ years! I loved it as much this time as I did the first and became concerned that maybe Croatia would be a letdown. It remains so overwhelmingly beautiful and at each turn, there is a new discovery. I did remember though that last time there were tons of cats running around. Asked at the hotel and apparently part of the reasonh is that the older ladies who used to tend to the cats have died off and the other reason is that having food in the streets for the cats is now against the law in order to curb rats.
After the great time in Venice, we took the train (one where we did not have to change in Bologna)to Ancona to head to Split. We almost got off at the wrong stop since a woman we were sitting near said that it was our stop (she meant well, I am sure!)---had to run back and reboard the train to the smirking faces of the conductors who clearly thought we were idiots. No matter, we got to Ancona! Stayed at the palace hotel there which was very nice and had a room overlooking the harbor. They recommended Osteria de Pozzo, a seafood restaurant that ended up being the best meal of the trip. A great place with amazing seafood at moderate prices--friendly, nice decor, etc. The dinner was about 44e and a real steal for what we had to eat--mujssels, clams, a huge cold seafood appetizer.
Took the Croatis Jet catamaran over to Split. Very calm initially, then rough seas in the middle with an attendant going around passing out plastic, you know what, bags. Fortunately, it ended, got clam again and we were in Split within walking distance of our hotel, The Peristil.
I took an immediate dislike to Split which probably wasn't fair. It was so crowded and filled with trashy flea marhet stalls around the palace area. It got better as we walked around more inside the gates. It rained a bit with some thunderstorms, but we were still able to walk around and ended up having dinner at the hotel's restaurant which was ok but not great.
The next morning was sunny and bright. We weren't leaving Split until 5pm and comnsidered leaving earlier. Instead decided to head to the bus station to get to Trogir. Loved it there---a pure delight to walk around. Some forum members had recommended Top Baloon so, when we were buying something at a stand, I asked if they knew the place. The woman commented that it was her favorite and told us how to get there. The pizza was, as described, really terrific. Walked around and easily caight the bus to get us back in time for the hotel catamaran.
I had been wavering between the PodSine and Amfora prior to departing. Decided on the AMfora which has been renovated but not totally. I booked the catamaran through them but didn't realize it was a separate catamaran only for the hotel and they take your bags directly to your room. Worked out well in all ways---the hotel is beautiful. Yes, the whole pool area isn't finished but you can see how spectaular it will be. The staff is really accomodating, the rooms are modern and stylish and the location and view are excellent. Wonderful sea views and a pleasant, short walk into town.
Well jet lag is catching up so more to follow.......
Sep 7th, 2007, 08:26 PM
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Sounds like a nice trip! We were in Venice in mid-June and also stayed at the Al Ponte Mocenigo (loved it, and also loved the less touristy neighborhood!!) and ate at the Trattoria Al Ponte del Megio (across the tiny canal from La Zucca). Thanks for posting!
Sep 8th, 2007, 09:09 AM
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I'm still thinking about the warm apricots croissants! What a great way to start the morning.
Will be posting the rest of the trip in a few days (Hvar, Korcula, Dubrovnik, Montenegro)
Will be posting the rest of the trip in a few days (Hvar, Korcula, Dubrovnik, Montenegro)
Sep 8th, 2007, 02:22 PM
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thanks for the report. I have a friend who will be in Sarajevo for 2 years and have been thinking of trying to combine a visit to Venice with a stop on the coast of Croatia then time in Bosnia. I was interested in your account of the Ancona overnight and the trip to Split (altho the former certainly sounded much more pleasant)
Sep 8th, 2007, 03:09 PM
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If I were doing it over again, I would really consider staying in Trogir rather than Split. That has been suggested on this forum and I think some hotels have been mentioned. That said, it was very convenient to walk from the catamaran directly to the hotel. The catamarans only run summer season so if you are doing the overnight ferry from Ancona, I would then go to Trogir to spend the day and an overnight. The busses were great and easy transporation between Split/Trogir and used again from Korcula to Dubrovnik. Hope that helps!
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