Hi, Will be in Rome for a week in March. As we plan our trip I have several questions:
1. Domus Aurea: Is it open?
2. Via Appia Antica: At first I really wanted to see it, but guide books suggest it's really rather run-down, etc. Since it seems that it'll take most of the day to get there, tour around, etc. I'm wondering if people thought it was worth it? And why? why not?
3. We have time to do two of these three: Tivoli, Ostia Antica or Pompeii. Which would you choose and why? why not?
4. Pompeii-assuming we go there-I can't find train times for the Circumvesuvinia train-does it run frequently?
5. Assuming we go to Tivoli-I'm very confused about how to get there (guide books suggest different things) and not sure how to get from the town to Hadrian's Villa without a car. Suggestions???
6. Porta Portese: Also, thought I really wanted to see this but some books suggest it's all just junk. Is this so? Any other markets (other than Campo de'Fiori) worth a visit?
Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

Looking forward to the responses to this thread!

Patti

I don't have the answers to all your questions but I do know that the Domus Aurea is closed for the foreseeable future and that the Circumvesuviana has frequent departures between Naples and Pompeii Scavi.

I think I can answer some of these.

1. I don't think its open.
3. I've done Pompeii and Ostia Antica. Both are terrific. Pompeii makes for a long day but its certainly doable. We were able to spend about 5 hours in Pompeii and were back in Rome before dinner. Ostia is much closer. Although not as famous, I really enjoyed it. Much less touristy. It's hard to chose which one is better, but I wouldn't do both. Chose one and visit Tivoli as well.
4. Yes, the circumvesuviana runs frequently. Their time table on the website doesn't appear to be working, but if I recall correctly trains left at least every thirty to forty minutes. Make sure you get off at the Pompeii Scavi.

I can answer #2 after we get back from our third trip to Rome in March. We are planning on visiting.

Hope these help some!
Tracy

In the same order as your questions:

1. Domus Aurea has been officially closed since December 2005 for two years; many people think it will be closed for longer than that.

2. Via Appia Antica: I pass on this question, never having gone there in over 30 trips to Rome.

3. In March, probably Ostia Antica, because I am not sure that the fountains of the Villa Este in Tivoli will be functioning in March. Try to do a search on it; I saw a message recently about the fountains and when they will be in operation.

4. Pompeii will be a long day. The Circumvesuviana goes from the same station (one level down or up) where your train from Rome arrives. It is basically a suburban line that goes every half-hour or so. Get out at the main entrance to Pompeii - Pompeii Scavi - do not fail to walk to the Villa dei Misteri with its wonderful frescoes, and get back onto the Circumvesuviana at Pompeii - Villa dei Misteri, a few yards from the villa.

5. There are buses that drop you close to or not so terribly close to Hadrian's Villa. Unless you have a detailed guide book, you will be apt to find Hadrian's Villa rather confusing.

6. Porta Portese: Mostly junk, very crowded, and there is a saying that you will find for sale as you leave the wallet that was stolen from you when you came in (minus the money, of course).

Go to www.slowtrav.com; on the Italy Message Board there is a long discussion of markets throughout Italy and of some in Rome as well.

Re: Tivoli

We went to the town of Tivoli and visited Villa d'Este last month. Since we had only half a day, we didn't go to Hadrian's Villa. But from what I understand, here's the info:

Cortal Buses leave from P. Mamolo (Metro Line B, second to last stop) to Tivoli every 20 minutes. There are two lines - the more freqeunt one takes the main road directly to town, the other one gets on the Autostrada for a little bit and then take a seperate road, which joins the main road just before the climb to Tivoli. The direct-route bus is a a few minutes faster.

Now, from what I understand, only the bus that takes the Autostrada passes the Hadrian's Villa. So, it depends on what time you get to P. Mamolo. If you just missed one, then it may be better to take the direct-route bus to Tivoli and then a local bus from Tivoli to Hadrian's Villa. Otherwise, it's like a 5km walk.

Well, at least that's how I understand it...

Here is the Tivoli information, taken from Rick Steves' column or whatever on MSNBC:

"In Tivoli, a medieval hill town just east of Rome, the 16th-century Villa d’Este has been restored and the villa’s much-loved fountains are in full spray."

I would still double-check either with the Rome Tourist Office or by calling Tivoli: 0744 312070

As to Via Appia Antica, I don't consider it "run down." Some stretches are bucolic with cypresses, umbrella pines and the gates to lavish villas. The main reason for going is to visit the catacombs. I can't imagine it taking most of the day. Last July we got on a bus near San Giovanni in Oleo around 10 am. We were at the catacombs of San Sebastiano in a few minutes. We were able to tour the catacombs and get on a bus back into the center in time for lunch. On Sundays, the Via Appia Antica is closed to vehicular traffic and makes a nice walk. If you are interested in the catacombs it is definitely worth it.

thanks for asking these questions, as we are going for a week Feb. 6th and I had similar ones. Also, is it better to take a taxi from the airport to your hotel or train to the termini and then a taxi?

Good questions and answers!
Thanks!

Airport to hotel:

If there are two of you, it is worth it to take a limousine or a shuttle from the airport to your hotel.

www.airportshuttle.it
31 Euro for one person, 6 Euro for the second person (I think), airport to hotel

www.limoservicerome.com
Check out the rate; I think it's 45 Euro, but it's a private car and not a van like airportshuttle

Train 9.50 Euro each from Fiumicino to Roma Termini, 15 minute walk to taxi stand, 10-15 minute wait for taxi, about 8-10 Euro for taxi in central Rome = 27-29 Euro

I would not suggest just grabbing a taxi at the airport; he may or may not overcharge you.

Hi, Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.

Tivoli's fountains are river/stream-fed, so if the water flow is diminished (as it usually is in the winter), the fountains will probably not be as spectacular as they would be in May/June. They usually close some of the fountains and divert the water to others so that at least some of the fountains will be impressive. You can take a day tour through American Express (office near the Spanish Steps) which will take you to both Hadrian's Villa and Tivoli. The time at Hadrian's Villa is guided and very informative. The time at Tivoli is on your own.

If you decide to see Pompei, don't go if rain is predicted. It just wouldn't be worth it.

Has anyone done the any of the Rome Walks or Roman Strolls day tours?

Any great walking tour you'd like to recommend?

Patti

Hi, Libby123-
I would suggest taking the Archeobus to see the Via Appia Antica.It's a tourist bus that takes you to several of the archaeological sites just outside the walls.www.archeobus.com,I think.You can also see the Catacombs,Aqueducts,etc.

I am a big fan of the ContextRome walks.You'll find lots written about them on this forum. I've taken most of their walks and have loved them all.
Buon viaggio!

Hi, Thanks for the tip on the archeobus. I did read about ContextRome, but thought maybe they might be a bit toooo in- depth. I'm usually good for about 2-3 hours and then I begin to zone out. Most of their tours seem longer than that. Given this, would you still recommend them?

Hi, Libby-
I know what you mean about the 2-3 hour window.I have found that the pace of the 4-hour walks have been fine for me.There's lots of interaction and lots of ground to cover so that for me,the time has passed quickly.They also have 2-hour orientation walks which are great.

thanks for all the help everyone!

We went to the airport a little early when we were leaving Rome and toured Ostia Antica which is adjacent to airport.

Hi, Thanks again for everyone's help. Have one more question as we get ready to leave. We have decided to splurge and rent a car with a driver for a day trip to Pompeii. I am leaning towards Rome limousine. Has anyone had any experience with this company--either good or bad. My second choice is Ideal limo--same question. Thanks again