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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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Travel around Nice; Paris transportation

In mid-October, husband and another couple and I are going to Nice Saturday through Thursday, then fly to Paris for 3 nights. I ned help with what we should do in Nice. We are thinking of renting a car to travel around on our own. Is that a bad idea? We'd like to go to Monoco for a day, and after that I don't know what we'll do. One idea is a drive to the Alps. We have to stay grounded in Nice, although we could stay somewhere else on Monday and/or Tuesday night. Need suggestions on what to see, and if public transportation is easy and will get us where we want to go. Will be staying at Hotel Roosevelt in Nice. Any comments?

Once we get to Paris, what to do about transportation. We are thinking about staying at Hotel Moderne St-Germain.(I'm a little concerned about the Hotel Moderne from comments on TripAdvisor. Don't want to spend a huge amount, but the area seems nice. Any other suggestions?) What's the best way to get there from the airport? We'll probably need transportation around Paris since one of us can't walk huge distances. I've seen info about Metro passes and such, but don't know what's the best route to go. Any help will be great!
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 07:00 AM
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MaureenB
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We spent three nights in Nice last May and loved it. We did not get a car, and found trains and buses to be easy to navigate.

Here's my trip report, with good restaurants there:

"We arrived in Nice in the early afternoon on Friday, via train from Santa Margherita Ligure. Our Hotel le Grimaldi (http://www.le-grimaldi.com/) was a short cab ride from the train station, 10 EUR for myself, my daughter, my gargantuan bag, and her two small ones. We were greeted graciously at the hotel, which immediately struck us as a good find.

The hotel is actually two Belle Epoque buildings back-to-back. One side is much prettier to enter, as it faces a nice church. The other side is fine, too, but a bit boring. I think the side on rue Grimaldi is the plain one, and the other side on rue Maccarani is prettier.

The man at the front desk carried my bag to the room, and showed us around. There’s a business center on the ground floor, with free internet use on their two computers, and a free printer to use. (Also wi-fi in the lobby, I think for a fee.)

Our room was a ‘classic’, twin-bedded room, which was quite large (for Europe), had a little balcony, a sparkling yellow and white tile bath with fluffy bright yellow towels, and nice toiletries. It was 150 EUR plus tax, and 10 EUR per person if we opted for the hot/cold breakfast buffet. They suggested we check out the buffet served till 10:30a.m. the next morning, and if we were interested we could sign on for it. The deal is that you have to buy it everyday to get the 10 EUR rate. Otherwise, per day, it’s 15 EUR per person.

So the next morning, we were happy to find hot eggs, proscuitto, yoghurts, cereals, cappuccino, assorted croissants, juices, etc. We thought it a good deal and quite convenient, so we enjoyed it each morning.


It's an easy walk to the train station (w/o luggage) from Le Grimaldi, and a slightly longer walk to the bus station. Easy walk of a few blocks to the grand promenade at seaside, just past the pedestrian zone. Also not far walking to Vieux Nice. The neighborhood felt perfectly safe, and we walked back to the hotel late each night.

For our first dinner, I had brought the name of a restaurant I’d found on Travel Talk, and the front desk agreed it was a good one, a local favorite in old Nice. It’s called Acchiardo, at 38 rue Droite in Vieux Nice. We headed over for their opening at 7 p.m., and were very happy with it. Really friendly and attentive service, very quaint and casual atmosphere, with a good menu. I had a steak dinner, which actually included vegetables on the side. My daughter had two different salads. We had bottled water and a half-liter of house red wine. When the bill arrived for 28.50EUR, I thought they’d made a mistake because it was so much less than I’d been accustomed to paying in Venice, Florence and Rome. But, no, it was correct. (We would have maybe eaten there another night, but found out it closes on weekend nights, believe it or not.)

We walked all over old Nice, then through the pedestian area to the promenade and took that way back to the hotel. It’s such a beautiful walk at night. The Chateau hillside is all lit up, the palm trees are lit, and the waves look so pleasant. It was how we ended each of our Nice nights, with that walk back to the hotel.

The next day we decided to take the short bus ride on the #81, to visit the Villa and Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild, near Saint Jean Cap Ferrat. (The bus is just 1.30EUR each direction, which you pay in exact change on the bus.) We didn't stop to see the Greek Villa, but it's also on that same bus route, near the Ephrussi. You can easily catch the #81 for your return trip to Nice, at any stop along the road.

It was a nice visit, especially to see the views of the sea down below on both sides of the hillside. I thought the price was a bit steep, at 9.50EUR for an adult, because the Villa isn’t really all that interesting (sorry!), but the gardens are pretty. There’s also a nice little café there, for a light snack or drink or meal, which was a welcome break from all our walking.

While we were there, a very strong wind came up, which caused quite a bit of white caps in the water below, and chased everyone in from the patio tables. The wind stayed with us for the rest of the day, but wasn’t terribly annoying.

From the Villa, we did the easy walk down to the port of St. Jean to walk around and check it out. There are nice boats in the little harbor, with cute restaurants and shops. It’s very tiny, so doesn’t take long to walk from end to end of St. Jean. We spent just about an hour and a half there, then caught the #81 back to Nice.

That evening, we returned to old Nice for dinner. We loved that neighborhood’s little streets, overall atmosphere, and cute shops. We found the Restaurant la Tapenada, 6 rue St. Reparate and had a very nice dinner. It was probably about 60EUR for the two of us, on their fixed price menu, with a bottle of house wine. Very nice little place, with friendly and attentive service. They even let my daughter trade her dessert for a salad. So she had two salads to start, one after the other, and they timed the arrival of our main courses perfectly. We were completely happy with our meal there.

The next day we decided we’d stick to the coast and see Antibes, which is a short 20-minute train ride from Nice. We were glad we’d chosen Antibes, as it’s beautiful. The sea wall makes a nice walk, and the Centre Ville is very charming.

We wandered its streets, shopped in a tiny clothing boutique, found a little place for omelettes (nothing special, but nice enough), then headed back to Nice by train after about four hours total. It was a good choice for a quick day-trip.

That evening we weren’t very hungry, so opted for the simple Pasta Basta, once again in old Nice. It was a nice meal, although not extraordinary. Good prices and decent service.

All in all, we were very impressed with Nice and the surrounding area. It’s a very pretty city, with a friendly attitude, sitting on a lovely shore. There are many options for things to do near Nice. We’d considered St. Paul de Vence and Digne, but with the beautiful clear weather, we were drawn to stay at the seaside, and were glad we did."

Have fun!

 
Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 07:20 AM
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Parking can be a real pain in Nice, and expensive, too. So unless you're planning on touring places that are well off the beaten path, I'd plan on using public transportation, which is excellent in Nice.

Monaco is only about 20 minutes or so by train. Antibes and Cannes are also about 20-30 minutes by train. St Paul de Vence, a beautiful walled hilltown which is closer to Cannes, is only about 50 minutes by bus.

In Nice itself, there's a lovely old town ( Vieux Nice) to explore, as well as the Chagall and Matisse museums. The city has a very active nightlife with tons of restaurants and clubs, so I'm sure you'll find plenty to do in the short time that you'll be there!
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 07:52 AM
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Some guidance on Paris transport:

Single <i>tickets 't'</i> good for one bus or M&eacute;tro ride anywhere in the central zone cost &euro;1,40 bought singly, or &euro;1,09 when purchased in a <i>carnet</i> of 10.

I'm not quite clear on when you'll get to Paris, but if you'd use public transport more than 15 times between a Monday and the following Sunday (and your airport trips are within that period), you should probably buy a <i>Carte Orange</i> good for unlimited travel in five zones, which will include central Paris, CDG, Versailles, Disneyland. You will need to present a 1&quot; square ID photo when you buy it.

You would take the RER (suburban train) from the airport to the Luxembourg station, then a taxi to your hotel. If you think you can walk for 12 minutes, you can skip the cab: http://tinyurl.com/o4cvx

Three bus lines stop practically outside your door (Coll&egrave;ge de France stop): the N&deg; 63, 86, and 87. These route maps should give you some idea of what you can get to without changing lines:

http://www.ratp.info/orienter/f_plan...&amp;nompdf=63
http://www.ratp.info/orienter/f_plan...&amp;nompdf=86
http://www.ratp.info/orienter/f_plan...&amp;nompdf=87
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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As others have said, there is frequent train service along the coast. Eze is another hilltop village easily reached by bus. If you want to go into the Alps without a car, check out the private train that runs from Nice to Dignes-les-Bains (www.trainprovence.com).

To get to your hotel in Paris, take the RER B line from CDG to St-Michel Notre-Dame and walk from there. Or take the connecting walkway to the Cluny La Sorbonne Metro station on line 10 and take it one stop to Maubert Mutualite. (Walking directly from St-Michel Notre-Dame will actually be faster--about ten minutes total).

Visit www.ratp.fr to download and print a Metro/RER map for central Paris and a RER map that shows service to outlying zones, including CDG.

You can't get a Carte Orange pass for the days you'll be in Paris and the Paris Visite pass is way too pricey. Besides, it doesn't come in a four-day version. I suggest you buy individual tickets to get from CDG to your hotel (E8.10). Then buy 10-ticket carnets (E10.90) as needed and share the tickets. Each ticket gives you unlimited transfers on the Metro and RER within zones 1-2 so long as you don't exit the system. Each bus ride requires a separate ticket. Or if you know you'll be taking a lot of rides on a particular day, buy one-day Mobilis passes for zones 1-2 for E5.50. (There is a zone 1-3 version for E7.30 and a zone 1-4 version for E9.15). The pass is activated when used for the first time and is only good for that day.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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It takes the same time to walk from Luxembourg, and the RER station is a lot easier to exit.

Oh, I see now. You're leaving Nice on Thursday no matter how the stay turns out. That's too bad, because it's the only day of the week that you can't buy a <i>Carte Orange</i> (are you sure you don't want to get there Wednesday? Just askin').

In that case, the single tickets from and to the airport are probably the way to go, augmented by <i>Mobilis</i> one-day passes for Friday and Saturday. <i>tickets 't'</i> probably aren't suitable if you're going to do much bus-hopping (one ticket per stage, no transfers). Consider that if you go to Montmartre, you can easily use two tickets getting there and back, one or two riding the <i>funiculaire</i>, and one on the <i>Montmartrobus</i>. Just that one trip is a wash with the price of a <i>Mobilis</i>.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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We too will be staying in Nice for 2 nights/a full 3 days in mid October. We will do a few things we have already done (been there more than a few times living in Europe) and will alos do new things. You could do day trips to :
Eze Village*
Villefranche-sur-Mer*
Antibe
Saint-Paul-de-Vence*
Menton*
Ventimiglia (italy)

Most can be done by train too but for those I marked *, I will do by bus (better view and cheaper).
I didn't add Cannes nor Monaco because they are not to my taste but that's personal.

Alps? What alps? You don't mean really snowy mountains that are bit too far?
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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Robespierre's suggestion of taking the RER one more stop to Luxembourg may be better than my suggestion of getting off at St-Michel Notre-Dame.

No, I at least don't mean snowy Alps. I mean the foothills.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Tim, I missed that in your post you mentioned of Alps. I meant Alps metioned on OP's post. Living in Switzerland, perhaps, I tend think Alsp = snow covered moutains. But of course France has an department/region called Alpes-Maritimes.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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I just got home from Nice, so here is my 2 cents...i cant see having a car because there is alot of construction going on in the city right now, and i cant see navigating in that mess.

It was very easy getting around via the trains (we stayed in Monaco and we went to Nice, Cannes and wonderful Menton), there is also bus service that seemed to service everywhere.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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GREAT RIVIERA WALK
Take the Cote d'Azur Metro - the name dubbed on the train line running along the coast from Nice-Ville station to Cap d'Ail, then just below the station take the paved paths that hug the coast the whole about two miles to Monaco/Monte Carlo, return to Nice by rail from there.
The walk goes along a totally natural spot of coast with signature Riviera atmosphere - cypress trees clinging to rocks - a deep azure-hued uncannily clear sea lapping at the rocky coast.
Isolated swimming holes - i've seen skinny dippers here so don't be shocked (or bashful if you want to join in) in these wondrous isolated swimming holes.
All in all the dramatic beauty of the Riviera etched in our minds' eye but which many folks never really see on what is a nearly developed coast of high-rise hotels.
Trains run about twice hourly. Spend some time in tiny Monaco - check out the ornate casino - replenish dwindling trip funds here perhaps - the tiny Mouse That Roared Royal Palace with toy-like guards then head into the cliff via a passageway to access Monte Carlo's new train station, wholly inside the cliff.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Note: turn left after coming down from the station onto the paths - that's the way to go straight to Monaco.
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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Have lunch outside at Cafe Paris in Monaco. It was a great people watching point!
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Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 12:56 PM
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Since you say you are flying from Nice to Paris, I'm guessing it is Easy Jet? And I'm hoping you are flying into Orly, not CDG. From there I'd get a minivan type taxi for the four of you (probably less than 30euro. Comparing to four tickets most other methods and their lack of ease and convenience, I think it's well worth it. If you're flying into CDG, it becomes another matter as the taxi will be roughly double the cost from Orly.

For your limited time in Nice, I wouldn't even consider a car, unless you wanted to rent one for a single day to go north into the countryside and do some stopping along the way. Taking the train to Monaco and other towns along the coast is so much easier than looking for parking there and it is &quot;dirt cheap&quot;.
 
Old Sep 15th, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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I made a mistake in a previous post. While a single ticket is good on the Metro in zones 1-2 (and to the end of the line even if it is in zone 3), a single ticket is good on the RER only in zone 1.
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