Trains, Planes, Automobiles, and oh, yes, a Gondola: Suki's Trip to Italy
Apr 15th, 2005, 10:01 AM
#21
Ahh, April 15th and some free time at last...
We toured the Duomo in Piazza San Marco around 3:30 on the afternoon we arrived in Venice. There was no line. Our girls went back outside to feed pigeons while we went upstairs to the museum so we were all happy. They were told, by the way, that the pigeon food that can be bought in the square, contains some form of pigeon birth control. You couldn't tell that by the number of pigeons though. After we were through wandering around the piazza, the girls went back to the hotel and DH and I wandered into Hotel Danieli. It was a lovely place on the Grand Canal and we thought about getting a drink here, but the prices were really high. I am remembering something like 19 euros for a glass of wine and more for drinks with hard liquor.
The next day, we had reservations for the Secret Itinerary Tour at the Doge's Palace. It was an interesting tour. The tidbits about the legend of Casanova were the most entertaining. I have to say though that there is just something about moving around with 25 other people and one tour leader that turns my girls right off. They didn't hate it but it wasn't their favorite part of the trip.
The next day we went up in the clock tower (very short line around 10AM) and enjoyed the views of Venice. We did a little shopping, and the girls and I had lunch while my husband went off and did something the nature of which is escaping me right now. This is MY trip report after all.
That afternoon we took the vaperetto over to Murano since my 14-year old daughter would like to be a glass blower when she grows up. This is one of the many careers that she finds appealing. We weren't sure where to get off the vaperetto and I think we ended up getting off around the 3rd stop in Murano. We walked for a little awhile through the town and finally came across a nice selection of glass shops. We observed a glass blower do his thing and since it was over in about 3 minutes, that alone would not be worth the trip out there. However, we had a nice time shopping and seeing Murano.
Our final day in Venice we headed over to the Rialto Bridge, walked through the fish market, wandered around a bit, saw the Friari(? - I have no notes and did not plan this portion of our itinerary so I am guessing) and then my daughters and I went to the Guggenheim while DH went wandering off on his own again. The Guggenheim was worthwhile if you are at all tired by now of Renaissance art. A Picasso, a Jackson Pollock, a Modliagno, etc. Peggy had a very nice place on the Grand Canal and we enjoyed seeing it.
Our dinners in Venice were uniformly good, but the real standout was Pazza Agua (sp?). It was the kind of restaurant where the waiter says "I know what you want.. let me bring you the ___________" There was a wonderful fried vegetable antipasta and also the seafood antipasta is great. This place has a lot of local color including being run by "Big Antonio" who keeps a careful eye on the goings-on in the dining room.
Next, train to Florence...
We toured the Duomo in Piazza San Marco around 3:30 on the afternoon we arrived in Venice. There was no line. Our girls went back outside to feed pigeons while we went upstairs to the museum so we were all happy. They were told, by the way, that the pigeon food that can be bought in the square, contains some form of pigeon birth control. You couldn't tell that by the number of pigeons though. After we were through wandering around the piazza, the girls went back to the hotel and DH and I wandered into Hotel Danieli. It was a lovely place on the Grand Canal and we thought about getting a drink here, but the prices were really high. I am remembering something like 19 euros for a glass of wine and more for drinks with hard liquor.
The next day, we had reservations for the Secret Itinerary Tour at the Doge's Palace. It was an interesting tour. The tidbits about the legend of Casanova were the most entertaining. I have to say though that there is just something about moving around with 25 other people and one tour leader that turns my girls right off. They didn't hate it but it wasn't their favorite part of the trip.
The next day we went up in the clock tower (very short line around 10AM) and enjoyed the views of Venice. We did a little shopping, and the girls and I had lunch while my husband went off and did something the nature of which is escaping me right now. This is MY trip report after all.
That afternoon we took the vaperetto over to Murano since my 14-year old daughter would like to be a glass blower when she grows up. This is one of the many careers that she finds appealing. We weren't sure where to get off the vaperetto and I think we ended up getting off around the 3rd stop in Murano. We walked for a little awhile through the town and finally came across a nice selection of glass shops. We observed a glass blower do his thing and since it was over in about 3 minutes, that alone would not be worth the trip out there. However, we had a nice time shopping and seeing Murano.
Our final day in Venice we headed over to the Rialto Bridge, walked through the fish market, wandered around a bit, saw the Friari(? - I have no notes and did not plan this portion of our itinerary so I am guessing) and then my daughters and I went to the Guggenheim while DH went wandering off on his own again. The Guggenheim was worthwhile if you are at all tired by now of Renaissance art. A Picasso, a Jackson Pollock, a Modliagno, etc. Peggy had a very nice place on the Grand Canal and we enjoyed seeing it.
Our dinners in Venice were uniformly good, but the real standout was Pazza Agua (sp?). It was the kind of restaurant where the waiter says "I know what you want.. let me bring you the ___________" There was a wonderful fried vegetable antipasta and also the seafood antipasta is great. This place has a lot of local color including being run by "Big Antonio" who keeps a careful eye on the goings-on in the dining room.
Next, train to Florence...
Apr 15th, 2005, 10:11 AM
#22
Wait, I almost forgot the gondola ride that we took on our last day of Venice. My husband was guilted into this a little bit by the 14-year old who announced that this had a been a "lifelong" dream of hers. Never one to crush a dream, we dutifully located a gondolier who gave us a nice 40 minute ride for 60 euros. The ride was a combination of small canals and then 20 minutes or so on the Grand Canal. The sun was shining, we were sitting, it was all good, and I'm glad we did it. If we ever go back to Venice, I think I might try to go at sunset.
Apr 18th, 2005, 05:35 PM
#25
On Good Friday, we wanted to catch an early train to Florence. The best option was the train from Santa Lucia to Mestre where we would change to the Eurostar to Florence. All trains that leave Santa Lucia stop at Mestre so there was no problem.
Matteo and Barbara served us breakfast early, called a water taxi, kissed me on both cheeksand then we climbed out the window into the taxi and were off.The water taxi is expensive, but it was really fun (and convenient) to climb out that window into a boat.
The train was uneventful. I wasn't sure that I would enjoy being without a car, but it was a very relaxing way to travel.
We made our way to our hotel, Orto de Medici which was located right behind the piazza San Marco where the Accademia is located. Our rooms were nice. My husband and I had a small terrace and a nice view of the hills surrounding Florence. I would not choose this hotel again though. It was the most expensive place we stayed (230 euros and 200 euros per room), and I just didn't think it was a real good value for the money. For one thing, they stop serving breakfast at 9:30. Some days you just want the option of starting the day later.
After checking in, we got some lunch and then made our way back to the train station for our trip to Pisa. This was a highlight for my daughters. We followed very detailed directions provided by ParadiseLost (thanks, Walter)and caught the bus from Pisa train station to the Tower area. Yep, that tower really leans,and there is an interesting baptistry and cathedral. We walked all the way back to the train station, saw some of the city, got some gelato, and generally had a good time.
That evening, back in Florence, we had dinner across the street from the hotel at Mimmo. I would recommend this restaurant. It has a very nice atmosphere, dark and candle-lit, and attentive service. The food was excellent, rustic Tuscan fare.
In Florence, we spent a lot of time shopping at the all the stalls. We bought scarves, and my daughter bought a purse and some jewelry.
We visited the Uffizi where we had reservations. We had a really hard time finding the right door. (Middle entrance on the right, I think). We rented the audio tour and enjoyed that. It also kept my daughters somewhat interested.We also saw the Accademia and David which doesn't take much time and is well worth it. David is really remarkable.
The other place we had a really good meal was at the restaurant right on Piazza San Marco. We thought it was one of the best meals of our trip and the service was friendly.
We attended the festivities at the Duomo Easter morning. There were fieworks and a parade, but it was all so crowded that it was difficult to see. It rained off and on all day Easter Sunday, but by this time in our trip we did not mind a little down time.
Matteo and Barbara served us breakfast early, called a water taxi, kissed me on both cheeksand then we climbed out the window into the taxi and were off.The water taxi is expensive, but it was really fun (and convenient) to climb out that window into a boat.
The train was uneventful. I wasn't sure that I would enjoy being without a car, but it was a very relaxing way to travel.
We made our way to our hotel, Orto de Medici which was located right behind the piazza San Marco where the Accademia is located. Our rooms were nice. My husband and I had a small terrace and a nice view of the hills surrounding Florence. I would not choose this hotel again though. It was the most expensive place we stayed (230 euros and 200 euros per room), and I just didn't think it was a real good value for the money. For one thing, they stop serving breakfast at 9:30. Some days you just want the option of starting the day later.
After checking in, we got some lunch and then made our way back to the train station for our trip to Pisa. This was a highlight for my daughters. We followed very detailed directions provided by ParadiseLost (thanks, Walter)and caught the bus from Pisa train station to the Tower area. Yep, that tower really leans,and there is an interesting baptistry and cathedral. We walked all the way back to the train station, saw some of the city, got some gelato, and generally had a good time.
That evening, back in Florence, we had dinner across the street from the hotel at Mimmo. I would recommend this restaurant. It has a very nice atmosphere, dark and candle-lit, and attentive service. The food was excellent, rustic Tuscan fare.
In Florence, we spent a lot of time shopping at the all the stalls. We bought scarves, and my daughter bought a purse and some jewelry.
We visited the Uffizi where we had reservations. We had a really hard time finding the right door. (Middle entrance on the right, I think). We rented the audio tour and enjoyed that. It also kept my daughters somewhat interested.We also saw the Accademia and David which doesn't take much time and is well worth it. David is really remarkable.
The other place we had a really good meal was at the restaurant right on Piazza San Marco. We thought it was one of the best meals of our trip and the service was friendly.
We attended the festivities at the Duomo Easter morning. There were fieworks and a parade, but it was all so crowded that it was difficult to see. It rained off and on all day Easter Sunday, but by this time in our trip we did not mind a little down time.
Apr 18th, 2005, 06:14 PM
#26
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Suki,
Enjoying your trip report so much--thank you for taking the time to tell us about it. We're leaving for Italy to meet our 21 year old daughter who is studying there for 6 mo. in Siena (it all started when we took her as a teen--see what you may have started--lol) and in a bit over 2 weeks and you really put me in the mood.
BTW, if your daughter is serious about glassblowing, let me know where you live, and I might have a place she can learn it (mine did and loves it--I've done it with her--it's really amazing, but very physically demanding).
Thanks again for your report.
Enjoying your trip report so much--thank you for taking the time to tell us about it. We're leaving for Italy to meet our 21 year old daughter who is studying there for 6 mo. in Siena (it all started when we took her as a teen--see what you may have started--lol) and in a bit over 2 weeks and you really put me in the mood.
BTW, if your daughter is serious about glassblowing, let me know where you live, and I might have a place she can learn it (mine did and loves it--I've done it with her--it's really amazing, but very physically demanding).
Thanks again for your report.
