It was served three ways: shaved raw, steamed spears, and a cream soup. All were delicious.

It's amazing that you went from one side of Switzerland to the other and back on the same day and Ticino looks gorgeous. I'm looking forward to our own trip to Switzerland in a few weeks. You're giving me ideas on possibilities if the weather isn't great in one part but fingers crossed and hoping for the best.

yk - "Ingo, I guess that means that I have to plan another return trip to the Luzern area "

Absolutely yes. And I am sure you will - if alone for the concerts ;-)

"and of course I'm now reading Adelaidean's report and I thought to myself, I should head back to Dresden and environs... still have not been to Leipzig yet!"

Oh yes, absolutely wonderful trip report that covers some places travelers from abroad rarely every visit. Leipzig is definitely worth a couple of nights, too. And both Dresden and Leipzig offer so much in regards to music/concerts!

Wow, that multicourse white asparagus meal sounds amazing!

Yes, I too was surprised! It would never have occurred to be to travel down to Lugano if it wasn't suggested here on Fodors. Enjoy your trip! If you already have a Swiss Pass, then hopping on the train to head somewhere is a no-brainer. I'd say that if you can swing it, 1st class is worth it simply because 2nd class can get very busy.

I also have never been to Czech republic... maybe a trip combining Prague and Saxony would be good!

Adventure in Ticino! The train to Sunny Ticino while is raining in central Switzerland became a classic after the opening of the Alptransit tunnel under the St.-Gotthard massif. And I believe it's hard to keep orientation on the hilly Mount Arbostora, encircled by the strange form of the Lugano lake. Already for the locals, the more for tourists! All in all: very well done! And thank you again for the great trip report!

Day 4, Sunday - Zurich

I finally got a good night's sleep and woke up at 8am! The sun is shining in the cloudless sky; today is absolutely a 10/10 spring day with temps in the comfortable 60sF. I paid extra for breakfast at the hotel (20CHF). Not cheap but considering 20 CHF doesn't buy you much in Switzerland, and there are really no places to get breakfast nearby, it was worth it for the convenience. Somehow the spread seems to have less variety than I recall from 2 years ago, but still decent enough. I was ready to head out around 10am.

Sunday in Zurich means many places are closed, shops are closed too. What to do then? My 2 operas are at 2pm and at 8pm, so I have a morning to kill. I checked the map and decided to walk over to the Botanical Garden University of Zurich, (free admission) about a 20-min walk. I was pleasantly surprised by how nice and peaceful it is there. The 3 greenhouses are fun to visit, as they contain lots of exotic plants from different parts of the world. I spent about an hour browsing.

Botanical garden with its greenhouse domes

From there, it's a quick walk down to Zürichhorn garden by the water, as I saw on google map that there is a "Chinese Garden" (free admission). It too is very nice - it was a present from the Chinese sister city Kunming as a sign of friendship between the two cities. Inside has a pond with koi, stone bridge, rock mountains, traditional corridors and pavilions.

Entrance to Zurich's Chinese Garden

Very typical chinese garden with corridors and pavilions

Pond and stone bridge and pavilion

After that I walked towards the Pavilion Le Corbusier, the last building designed by the famed architect. It was around 11:50am then and the building opens for visits at 12n, so I decided to wait. I wasn't sure if it was worth my time and money (15 CHF) but after my visit I was glad I did it. I love the aesthetic and it has free audioguide inside the building on the different floors. I also was glad I went right at opening time so there were only a handful of visitors. I spent 45 minutes inside the house and it's time to head back to the hotel to get ready for the 2pm opera.

Exterior of Pavilion Le Corbusier

Main space inside

One of the nooks

My legs have been aching after walking 11 miles the day before, and I added another 4 miles from this morning, so I decided to buy a 24-hr ticket on ZVV, as I would need a ticket to get to the airport tomorrow anyway. It was 14.40 CHF for 3 zones (includes Zurich airport) which would allow me to have unlimited rides for the next 24 hours. So then I just hopped on the next tram towards Bellevue, then change for another tram back to Kunsthaus. The trams in Zurich run frequently and efficiently, which also explains why you don't see traffic jams on the streets because why would you need to drive if the trams are more convenient?

back at the hotel I quickly changed, and then hopped back on the tram (both line 8 and 9 go down the hill to Bellevue, and they come every 5 minutes. I never had to wait more than 3 minutes for the next tram) and headed to the opera house. In case you haven't noticed, I hadn't had lunch yet. I did have a hearty breakfast this morning at the hotel but I should grab something to eat, except it was already 1:30pm and I don't really have time. There is a Babu's bakery a block from the opera house so I hopped in and bought some pastry bun (filled with cream) for 5 CHF, and ate it quickly before heading in for a concert performance of Berlioz's La Damnation de Faust.

my CHF 5 lunch

After the opera, I walked over to Sternen Grill right at Bellevue. Every time I pass by it, there is a huge line waiting. Well, maybe I should check that out. This is around 5pm and the line wasn't long, and I opted for takeaway and bought their St. Galler Bratwurst (140g) "World famous” Sternen Grill Bratwurst, served with a crusty bread roll for CHF 8.90. I quickly hopped on the next tram to return to my hotel and ate it back in my room while it was still warm. Then it's time for a nap before the evening performance.

I headed back out around 6:30pm, checked out the waterfront by the opera house. The Knie Circus has set up a huge tent for their family circus show next to the opera house. And there were lots of people enjoying the nice Sunday afternoon by the water. I wasn't entirely hungry and there is a Movenpick right across from the Opera house and they have outdoor seating. So I guess it's ice cream for dinner then! I ordered a coffee ice cream sundae — 2 scoops of coffee icecream with cold espresso (10.80 CHF) — to ensure I can stay awake for the next 2.5 hrs. In the end I needed not to worry as the singing in the opera (La clemenza de Tito) was top-notch. Got back on the tram and back at the hotel in no time.

Beautiful Day in Zurich - you can see the snow-capped mountains in the distance. Waterfront is filled with locals

Knie circus tent seen from the Opera House balcony

my dinner

(FTR, last time when I was in Zurich, I walked between the hotel and the opera house. It is about a 15-min walk, and hence why I picked this hotel. I could have totally walked this time but my legs were tired and the trams are so conveniently and i have the 24-hr ticket.)

Gute Nacht, Zürich!

Thank you, Finsteraarhorn! It was a fun trip and I hope I will be back again soon!

You were quite busy in Zürich, too, yk! LOL I liked strolling along the lake, Zürichhorn, Chinese garden ... never made it into Le Corbusier's pavillion. Two operas in one day - wow! Especially since the Berlioz is quite heavy stuff. Not a fan of Clemenza di Tito here, I must admit.

But I see lots of options for you to scratch the opera itch in Dresden and Leipzig, and also in Prague. Yep, that combination would be a wonderful trip for you. And you could also easily follow Adelaideans steps in Stadt Wehlen, the Railjet train to Prague stops in nearby Bad Schandau (all in the National Park.)

I am always packing way too much on my trips and then when I get home I feel like I need another vacation to recover. 😅
A trip to Dresden, Leipzig, and Prague will really need a minimum of 2 weeks... and my son only gets one week of vacation at a time, unless it's Christmas break or summer vacation. Neither is ideal... I could take him to Dresden / Leipzig for next April's vacation (1 week), but right now I have my sights set on Cinque Terre.

I'm with you on needing a vacation to recover from my vacations. As for the Czech Republic, Prague is awesome but Kutna Hora and Cesky Krumlov are very worthwhile too. The 3 would fill a good week.

Day 5 - monday - Zurich to home by way of Iceland; in a full circle kind of way

My flight out of Zurich to Iceland's Keflavik airport is scheduled at 2pm. Knowing how efficient Zurich Airport is, I figured I did not need to leave my hotel until 11am. Gone was yesterday's sunshine; instead it was a grey, chilly day. On my agenda for the morning was 2 things: 1) souvenir shopping, and 2) Chagall windows at Fraumünster.

Since Fraumünster does not open until 10am, I went shopping first. The only souvenirs I can afford in Switzerland are chocolates. I decided to get 2 kinds: some fancy kind from chocolatier, and some not fancy kind (but still good) from Coop. There is no shortage of fancy chocolatiers in Zurich, though I ruled out Teuscher and Läderach because we have both of them in Boston. The day before when I was getting my pastry from Babu's by the opera house, right next door is Vollenweider Chocolatier. I figured it should be good enough, with the bonus fact that it is close to my hotel and it opens at 8:30am. I bought a PYO box — 12 pieces of chocolate + 4 champagne truffles + 4 pink champagne truffles = CHF 42.75

My box of chocolates and truffles from Vollenweider Chocolatier. They gave me a free pink champagne truffle.

Next I headed to Coop City right by Bellevue where they have a good size supermarket in the basement, and you can find 2 walls of chocolates (including touristy boxed tins). I bought 2 bars of Cailler chocolate — 1 milk chocolate and 1 crémant chocolate noir — each bar is a whopping 300g, for a total of CHF 14.30

One of the 2 walls of chocolates at Coop City basement supermarket

Mission accomplished, then I walked over to Fraumünster, arriving right at 10am to revisit the Chagall windows (CHF 5 admission fee). We did not have time to see them 2 years ago, but I did see them in 2010, and also on my 2003 solo trip. Despite an overcast day, the windows are still very vivid. The place is very quiet - not sure if because it was still early or if it was a monday or if Zurich isn't really on tours' circuits? It was a very pleasant and peaceful experience enjoying the windows without hoards of tourists elbowing me. I did not stay long; perhaps 20 minutes, then walked over to Bürkliplatz to catch the tram back to the hotel. Finished packing the chocolates into my carryon, checked out and headed back to the tram stop for tram #3 to HBF.

Fraumünster from across the bridge

the 3 central panels by Chagall

At the Zurich Hbf I tried to buy a gift for my son from Decathlon... in Basel (on that rainy day) I saw many bikes with a rain cover for the bike seat from Decathlon, which my son will find useful. Sadly they were out of stock.

I got to Zurich airport just before 12 noon; going through security took no time, and i did not have to go through immigration here, so I headed for the Aspire lounge for some lunch before boarding.

To finish the TR with a full circle... as I boarded my flight to KEF, there is the usual delay in the aisle as you wait for others to stow their luggage. Well, sitting in the aisle in the 3rd row in Business class on my flight was none other than Vikingur Olafsson! Who is he again, you ask? He's the Icelandic pianist who curated the Lucerne Pulse Festival (and also played in 2 of the 3 concerts I attended). So of course I had to chat with him while I was stuck standing there 😆 I actually had talked to him a few nights ago when I ran into him in the concert hall, so I am pretty sure he remembers who I was. In retrospect, not surprising at all he was on that flight, as the festival ended the night before in Lucerne so it makes sense he is flying home to Iceland first thing Monday.

Transitting via KEF back home is tight on time just like last time 2 years ago. Except that since i've done it once, I am a lot more relaxed about it. I also paid extra ($28) for a seat close to the front in row 10, and guess what, my entire row (both sides of the aisle) was empty. Seems like everyone else was unwilling to pay and they were all stuck at the back of the plane. I was able to get out pretty quickly (the FAs made an announcement asking those whose destination is KEF to stay seated, but of course 90% of the pax are transit passengers). The immigration line is once again long like Disneyland, but just like last time, it moves pretty quickly. I even had time to go use the bathroom and refill my water bottle before heading to my gate, which was "closing." I was probably one of the last people to board. The gate agent changed my seat and assigned me to the penultimate row, row 40, in the middle section, but assured me that I have all 3 seats to myself. HA, I ended up having a "lie-flat" seat! (jokes on me as my last 2 trips I was lucky enough to fly business and had true lie-flat seats and not this time) I pre-paid for an entree on this flight because I knew I would not have time to buy food at the airport given the tight connection. $24 for the smallest beef noodle salad... quite a rip off! The same goes for my outbound flight KEF-ZRH where I paid $17 for 2 tiny open face nordic sandwiches.

My $24 small beef noodle salad

Our plane touched down at Logan airport 30 minutes early, which I was super happy about, until the captain came on the PA to say we don't have a gate for at least 30 minutes. Boo.

Will I fly Icelandair again? ugh it's hard to say. Their prices are very competitive; I would not be able to take this trip if I were to fly nonstop on Swiss, which cost 2x as much. But Icelandair are super strict when it comes to carry on size, and it really is no frills — no free food on board (not even the trans-atlantic portion), the only free drinks is water, coffee and tea. Even for soft drinks you have to pay. And the food on board is expensive and small portion. Transitting at KEF is stressful with tight connection time.

I'll wrap up the TR with another post with my thoughts on this trip.

yk - thanks again for this detailed trip report. We share the chocolate addiction ;-) I would have bought that Cailler chocolate, too. But the box from Vollenweider seems very expensive. Has it really become such a luxury product? I remember buying truffes from Schiesser in Basel about 20 years ago and it was affordable. Hm, the exchange rate was different back then ...

I hope you saw the Giacometti windows as well. How lucky I was there was no admission fee yet when I saw the Chagall windows many years ago.

What a funny and pleasant coincidence the pianist was on the same flight as you and you could chat with him! I often go to the stage door after an opera or concert to let the musicians/singers/conductor sign my program and chat with them. And then I see them a couple of days later in the tram or in the grocery, LOL!

Yes, I saw the Giacometti windows as well as the rose window by Chagall. The cathedral provides a leaflet with descriptions.

Zurich is... expensive. I was almost glad it was time to leave as I really cannot afford the prices there. Of all the European countries I could have picked for concerts and operas, I picked the most expensive one to visit 🤣

The chocolates are expensive, but they are really good. Even my son who doesn't have a sophisticated palette, could tell they are of v good quality.

Just a few thoughts about this short trip:

1. Switzerland remains one of my favorite countries to visit: for the ease of getting around as a tourist, for its punctuality and predictability, for the scenery
2. Switzerland is expensive; it feels pricier than 2 years ago when we were there due to the unfavorable exchange rate (it's 10% higher compared to 2 yrs ago),
3. I have been to Luzern in 2003, 2010, 2024. But all those times were a quick visit. In 2003 I think I stayed overnight one night but the other 2 were just a brief day visit. I never felt particularly drawn to it. This time, although I ventured no farther than a 1/4-mile radius from the train station, I liked it more. Perhaps it's because I was out and about in the evenings after the daytrippers were gone, or perhaps mid-May is not high tourist season yet. The town feels particularly beautiful and quaint during the late afternoon & evening hours. I would like to return another time, hopefully with better weather, so I can explore the surrounding areas. I have done lake cruises and been up to Mt Rigi before, but those were all v rushed done in a day-trip format.
4. I am split about my impressions on Zurich. I dont' think it's a very interesting city — feels too rich and too sterile to me. OTOH I did have a lovely time on Sunday walking in the botanical garden and in zurichhorn and by the opera house seeing people of all ages and families enjoying the nice weather. The prices in Zurich are even higher and TBH I don't think I could afford staying for another night there.

I usually do a cost post-mortem after my trips but I will skip it this time because this trip was all about concerts and operas. The rest were bonus. I have listed in my TR the prices I paid for meals and admissions and train tickets. My airfare was sub $500 but after the extras (seat selections, meals), it came out closer to $670. The Luzern hotel was just under 500 CHF for 2 nights. The Zurich hotel, I completely lucked out. It was CHF 505 when I booked months ago but 1 week before my stay I rechecked the rate and it had gone down by CHF 110. I was able to amend by reservation and ended up paying CHF 404 for 2 nights.

Concert tickets at Luzern festival were reasonably priced (compared to US), but opera tickets at Zurich are expensive. Their house is not that big and unless you pay for the top prices, your sightline will be significantly obscured.

Thank you again for this report: very useful and very entertaining! Also thanks for sharing your final thoughts: I think they point out very essential considerations. Arrivederci!

Excellent information again. Unfortunately Switzerland has become so very expensive that I have turned to other European countries for vacation.

I forgot to say that May is such a wonderful time to visit Europe! Before the descend of massive crowds and oppressive heat (tho I see that they are having a heat wave this week). I wish I could do this every year but it's unlikely given May is the busiest month in the public school year. It was a miracle I pulled it off this year in between my son's many end-of-year events (I missed his last day of standardized exam).

Thanks for the report. I'm so happy that you enjoyed your hike in Ticino.
You made the experience that in Swiwtzerland, there are always more (most ao then) signmarked trecks that you find in guide books.
You took the "wrong" way at the public pool of Carona and got therefore a longer itinerary.
Once at Torello, you tookt he best possible paath, marded in grey at your curious map.
I always use the official swisstopo map, where you find ALL trails (with elevation curves).
https://map.geo.admin.ch/#/map?lang=...xelkarte-farbe

If you want to know where go hikers who leave the train at Bellinzona or Lugano, just have a look at the following fotos.

Monte Generoso cog wheel raiilway station. 6 different hiking trails down to Swiss or Italian bus stops.

Tamaro Hut. A short hike from gondols station. Trails to bus stops above both, Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano

[img alt="
Bosco Gurin. Mountain village above Locarno. Hikes to bus stops in Val Vergeletto, Val Onsernone and Val Formazza (Italy)"]https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fodors.com-vbulletin/1920x1080/boscogurin_estate_escursionismo_1_1ee1f69acc4a0c30 a202e7ce9f90bb1ad5989a41.jpg[/img]
Bosco Gurin. Mountain village above Locarno. Hikes to bus stops in Val Vergeletto, Val Onsernone and Val Formazza (Italy)