Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

TR: yk/rkkwan + parents' 2-week mostly Swiss sojourn; Sept 2010

Search

TR: yk/rkkwan + parents' 2-week mostly Swiss sojourn; Sept 2010

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 11:38 AM
  #41  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<B>CHAPTER 4 continued - Interlaken and beyond

Day 4
Ballenberg and Brienz</b>

We had 3 full days in Interlaken (Sat/Sun/Mon). We decided to save Jungfraujoch for Monday as Monday is expected to have the best weather among the 3 days.

So, on this cloudy Saturday, we chose to visit the <b>Ballenberg Open Air Museum</b>. Ballenberg is located several miles east of Brienz. To get there, we first took the train to Brienz, then changed for a local bus to Ballenberg (15-min ride; free with SwissPass). All buses that go to Ballenberg stop at both the West and the East entrances.

It appears that everyone on the bus was visiting the museum too. Most got off at the West entrance, and so did we. Again, our Swiss Pass got us into the museum for free (normal admission 20 CHF pp), but I paid 2 CHF for a map.
http://www.ballenberg.ch/en/Welcome

I don't remember which guidebook said to "allow 3 hours" for Ballenberg. One can easily spend 2 full days here! This place is huge. Spread over 163 acres, representative old buildings of each Swiss region are clustered in groups. Most of the houses are at least several hundred years old; the oldest one dates from the 1300s.

Many of the buildings are farm houses: one-half of the house is living quarters for the family, the other half is a barn for animals and storage space for farm equipments. Almost all the buildings are open for touring, and many are furnished. Visitors are free to roam around as nothing is roped-off. I was rather shocked to see the Swiss tourists touching the furniture, opening drawers, picking up bowls and plates etc. Such actions would have never been allowed in the historic houses in the US!

My preconception of "all houses in Switzerland look the same" was quickly debunked here. One can really appreciate the different architecture styles of various Swiss regions.

A wealthy merchant's house: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6129.jpg
Farmhouse: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6136.jpg
Another style of home: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6138.jpg
Alp huts for people and animal: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6140.jpg
Pharmacy: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6133.jpg
Interior of pharmacy: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6134.jpg
Interior of farmhouse: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6132.jpg
Weaving with the loom: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6141.jpg
Tobacco plant: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6139.jpg

Apart from old buildings, there are plenty of farm animals on the premise: different breeds of chickens, ducks, pigs, horses, cows, goats, rabbits... These ducks have a particular taste for my dad's pants: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6137.jpg

We stopped for lunch in the cafeteria within the Ticino region. Not surprisingly, the menu is Italian. There are several other restaurants scattered throughout the grounds. After lunch, we were able to find the building where fresh cheese is made the traditional way. We bought a 100gm piece for 2 CHF. 4+ hours later, we exited the museum via the East entrance; I estimated that we covered about 80% of the complex. We could have stayed longer, but after a while, all the buildings and interiors turn into one big blur.

Just outside the East entrance is Ballenberg's home-made chocolate shop. Of course we have to stop by and buy some!
Museum map, chocolate, and fresh cheese: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6154.jpg

We took the bus back to <b>Brienz</b> (note: the bus runs only 1x/hour in the afternoon, so make sure you check the bus schedule <i>before</i> you enter the museum). Although Brienz is known for wood-carving, we found very few shops/workshops selling it.

A quiet residential street: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6144.jpg
Wish I could take one of these planters home (but it would fill up my entire 19" suitcase!)
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6145.jpg

The town seemed eerily quiet for this cloudy, Saturday afternoon. We found a coffee shop that's open, so we stopped for coffee and cake to warm up.

<i>Cafe Wydi
Hauptstrasse 108, 3855 Brienz</i>

We ended our day by taking the ferry from Brienz back to Interlaken-Ost. http://www.bls.ch/e/schifffahrt/fahrplan.php

<b>Brienzersee/Lake Brienz</b> is smaller and less touristy than its sister lake, Lake Thun. However, we find Lake Brienz more scenic, as the lake is narrow and framed by steep hills on both sides.
Looking back at Brienz: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6143.jpg
More shades of green: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6151.jpg

[Transport tech info:
<i>9:52-9:57 IC 371 Interlaken West to Interlaken Ost (SBB, standard gauge)
This train comes from Basel.

10:04-10:22 IR 2217 Interlaken Ost to Brienz (ZB, meter-gauge)
We only rode one stop, but this is the continuation of the GoldenPass train to Luzern.

Bus rides between Brienz and Ballenberg

16:50-18:15 ferry "Brienz" from Brienz to Interlaken-Ost

18:21-18:23 R 5731 Interlaken Ost to Interlaken West (BLS, standard gauge)
Local train that continues to Spiez.</i>]
yk is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 12:13 PM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yk...

You are bringing back great memories for me. Back in my college days I did a study abroad in Switzerland and lived for 3 months in Montreaux.
LowCountryIslander is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 02:03 PM
  #43  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi swisshiker (waving)
How was <i>your</i> trip? Did you have good weather?

LCI, 3 months in Montreux, how lovely! I'm glad you're enjoying this too.
yk is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 02:39 PM
  #44  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 23,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A few comments:

1. My suitcase is actually 20" or 20.5" officially. It's a nice light-weight Delsey I got in Hong Kong. Best luggage I've ever bought.

2. The very infrequent 15-minute ferry from Montreux to Chillon seems silly, but if you can arrange your time to do it, it's very worth the trouble as you can see the Chateau from the lake side.

3. On yk's comment about how green the Swiss countryside looks, our GoldenPass train transverse briefly the upper Grueye valley in the canton of Friboug. That's where the famous cheese comes from, and the lush green valleys are dotted with milk cows. [Some of you may already know, but dairy cows in Switzerland are brown, or brown/white. Not black or black/white.]

4. One very cool thing about Ballenberg is that it allows dogs. You'll see lots of locals visiting with their dogs. There are signs to tell the owners to leash up - like when there are farm animals nearby. I think that's very very cool.

5. Lake Brienz is very pretty. Looking at the photos of the various lakes we cruised on, the water looks most blue there.
rkkwan is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 03:13 PM
  #45  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<b>CHAPTER 4 continued - Interlaken and beyond

Day 5
Mt Rigi, Luzern, Bern - all in one day? Is that possible?</b>

Yup, that's rkkwan's idea of fun: by the end of the day, we would have ridden on SEVEN trains (2 of which are cog railways), 1 paddle steamer, 1 aerial cableway, and 1 trolleybus. All "free" of course, courtesy of our Swiss Pass.

Well, it all started with our Dad. The other night, he was reading the brochure that came with our Swiss Pass. There is a mention that all Mt Rigi's transport are now free to Swiss Pass holders. This is unusual, as all Swiss mountain companies only offer 50%-off to Swiss Pass passengers.

Since we were planning to head to Luzern anyway, rkkwan and I pored over the various train/ferry/cablecar schedules the night before, and came up with a ridiculous itinerary that would only delight people who literally "enjoy the ride".

There are 2 routes to reach the summit of <b>Mt Rigi</b>, both via cog railways. One departs from Arth-Goldau (blue color), the other from Vitznau (red color). http://www.rigi.ch/en/navpage_list-T...BahnenWVR.html

The 2 lines began construction in the 1860-70s. The Vitznau-Rigi line was completed first and in 1871, became the very first mountain railway in operation in Europe. The Arth-Rigi line opened a few years later.

Apart from the cog railways, one can being the journey in the town of Weggis, where an aerial cableway goes up to Rigi Kaltbad. At Rigi Kaltbad, one can connect to the Vitznau-Rigi cog railway to ascend to the summit. http://www.rigi.ch/en/navpage-Transp...WVR-54585.html

After figuring out all the logistics, we began our day by taking the train from Interlaken to Arth-Goldau, via Luzern. 2 changes are required, and the segment from Interlaken to Luzern is part of the GoldenPass line.

Leaving the overcast Lake Brienz behind (more shades of green):
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6159.jpg
Arriving at the sunny Lake Luzern region:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6162.jpg

By the time we arrived at <b>Arth-Goldau</b>, it was almost lunch time. With 30 minutes to spare, we picked up sandwiches at the Aperto market inside the train station (17.50 CHF). Then we switched to the little blue train: the Arth-Rigi Bahn (cog railway).
http://www.rigi.ch/en/navpage-Transp...WVR-54586.html
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6163.jpg

Given it is a sunny Sunday, the small train cars were completely full of Swiss hikers. Some had to stand the whole way. Soon enough, we were on our way up toward the summit(5900 ft); a 40-min ride.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6167.jpg

If you can believe this, we had only 10 minutes (!) to spare on the <b>Mt Rigi summit</b> before our next train departs. Mom decided to "sit tight" at the train station; while the 3 of us ran up the steep incline to reach the panorama terrace, snapped a few photos, before we rushed back down huffing and puffing for the little red train: the Vitznau-Rigi cog railway.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6172.jpg
http://www.rigi.ch/en/navpage-Transp...WVR-54579.html

But we didn't ride it all the way down to Vitznau. Instead, we disembarked at <b>Rigi Kaltbad</b> to switch for the aerial cableway to take us down to Weggis.
http://www.rigi.ch/en/navpage-Transp...WVR-54585.html

I must say, the cable car ride was the most fun. Soon after the car left the summit station, it "flew" in mid-air with little support. The expanse of Lake Luzern was below us, in a somewhat dizzing manner.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6174.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6175.jpg

In less than 10 minutes, we reached the base station, after descending 924m.
Cableway base station at Weggis:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6177.jpg

From the cableway station, it's a 10-min walk downhill to reach the lakeside. (Bear in mind, if you do this route in reverse, you're looking at a 15-min UPhill hike).

Weggis is another lovely lakeside town. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6179.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6182.jpg

At Weggis, we boarded <i>Uri</i>, a 1901 paddle steamer, for Luzern. Uri is the oldest Swiss paddle steamer still in regular service. The ferry ride on Lake Luzern took just under one hour, and we arrived <b>Luzern</b> at 3pm.
http://www.lakelucerne.ch/en/timetables-fares.html

Approaching Luzern on the ferry:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6186.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6189.jpg

On this beautiful Sunday afternoon, Luzern is bursting its seams with tourists. Perhaps it has to do with the Luzern festival, which had just closed the night before. All the sidewalk cafes were full, with everyone enjoying the sun. We did the tourist route in 1 hour: the famous chapel bridge, and the area around the old city hall. I really liked the beautifully painted houses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6195.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6203.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6204.jpg

One final look:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6207.jpg

Since Dad wanted to see <b>Bern</b> as well, we took the 4pm train from Luzern, arriving Bern at 5pm. We walked along the main drag - studded with fountains every few blocks, old clock towers, and lined with arcaded sandstone buildings on both sides.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6210.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6212.jpg

We got as far as the city hall, before we took a bus back to the Bern train station for our train back to Interlaken, arriving "home" at 7pm.

[Transport tech info:
<i>8:52-8:57 IC 959 Interlaken West to Interlaken Ost (SBB, standard gauge)
IC train from Basel.

9:04-11:04 IR 2215 Interlaken Ost to Luzern (ZB, meter-gauge; cog in portion)
The final section of the GoldenPass line. The train reversed direction at Meiringen, then climbed over the Brünig Pass with cogs. Our train doesn't say GoldenPass on the outside, just Die Zentralbahn.

11:18-11:44 IR 2169 Luzern to Arth-Goldau (SBB, standard gauge)
Regional train to Locarno. Lots of people get off at Arth-Goldau to connect to Cisalpino service down to Milan.

12:10-12:47 R 141 Arth-Goldau RB to Rigi Kulm (Rigi-Bahnen, standard guage cog railway)
One of two cog railway lines to top of Rigi.

13:00-13:13 R 1128 Rigi Kulm to Rigi Kaltbad (Rigi-Bahnen, standard guage cog railway)
We rode the other line down to connect to aerial tramway.

Aerial Cableway from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis

14:05-14:47 #18 "Uri" paddle steamer from Weggis to Luzern

16:00-17:00 IR 2530 Luzern to Bern (SBB, standard gauge)
Train uses the semi-highspeed Mattstetten–Rothrist new line towards Bern, and continues to Geneva Airport.

Bern - short bus ride back to train station

18:04-18:51 IC 981 Bern to Interlaken West (SBB, standard gauge)
Train comes from Basel.</i>]
yk is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 03:38 PM
  #46  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,079
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ahhh, blue skies!! Loving the photos.

I am really looking forward to reading about your hiking day (and your parents' Jungfraujoch day).

I took my parents to Switzerland in July (well, 10 nights in Italy and 5 nights in Switzerland) and 4 of our nights were spent in the Berner Oberland. We did some hiking (and Dad had broken his hip in March! He held up like a champ...) and we were all wowed by the Jungfraujoch and Trummelbach Falls. I think you did that as well (if I recall from your planning here) - did you stand inside the falls and just close your eyes to feel the rumbling power? It was awe inspiring!
flygirl is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 04:01 PM
  #47  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I ALWAYS enjoy your trip reports . . . love the detail and I've taken quite a few of your reports with me on my trips. Thank you very much!

Hubby, I, another couple went to Switzerland for a week last Sept (a year ago) . . . I am sorry that we were "before" yours . . . we could have benefitted from your info.

Thank you for posting, please keep on.

A fan,
Sandy (in Denton)
sandy_b is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 05:13 PM
  #48  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yk, your report is fantastic! The photos are so pretty... can't wait to return to Switzerland in November for a week. We'll be in Lausanne and Zurich (with rental car). (Also in Amsterdam and Germany)

You mentioned Gruyere... Gruyere cheese is my favorite!! Yum!
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 05:16 PM
  #49  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Meant to say something about wishing I could travel light the way you seem to be able to do. DH always has 2 suitcases (hardsiders) and I always seem to fill one big one, with a couple of 'extra' folded up satches inside! Not good for your type of travel. We always have a car.

Will you be at the GTG in BOS? Hope so!

Carol
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 05:47 PM
  #50  
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yk,

How does the inside of the Grand Théâtre de Genève look?
MademoiselleFifi is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 05:47 PM
  #51  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This TR is very inspiring. Definitely, a swiss rail vacation is moving to a higher number on my bucket list.
docdan is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 06:38 PM
  #52  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi all, I really appreciate all your comments, and I'm glad you are enjoying my amateur photos. Wait until you see the ones taken by rkkwan, then you'd realize mine are no good.

flygirl, the "hiking day" is next to follow.

Sandy (in Denton), thanks for your kind words. Remember you helped me out too? Last year when we stayed at YOUR apt in Berlin!

Carol, enjoy your trip in November! Regarding luggage, because I travel solo a lot, I need to pack light and be able to handle my own luggage. Since we have access to washing machines on this trip, I basically packed as much clothes as I would normally have for a 5-day trip; then did laundry twice during this trip. However, I can *never* survive with a 17" or 18" suitcase like my parents. 19" is the smallest I can go! And sorry, I'm afraid I won't be at the GTG this weekend. I've been away for so long that I promised DH that I'd spend time with him when I return (he couldn't take that much time off to come to Switzerland with us).

Fifi, the auditorium is modern, as it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 1960s (the exterior shell survived the fire). It's really nothing to write home about with regards to the auditorium. We spent some time in the foyer, but then were ushered to the side staircase for our Balcony seats, so I can't tell you if it has a grand staircase or other details.
yk is offline  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 08:58 PM
  #53  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Like everyone, I am really enjoying this report! I love the details and the explanatory links & photos.

I am even now in Montreux, in an apartment for two weeks. It is like my second home; I also spent a semester here at a boarding school, in 1968. I believe those stalls only set up along the lake on market day, Friday. Or maybe on other days in the summer. I've been here for five days already and haven't seem them.

That gorgeous, lush, green landscape around Gstaad (between Montreux & Zweisimmen) is my favorite in the country. This year, I divided my time -- one week in Gstaad and two in Montreux. It's heaven for me.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to more!

s
swandav2000 is online now  
Old Oct 6th, 2010, 09:33 PM
  #54  
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi yk, my fellow MI5 fan!

I am loving your trip report! Beautiful pictures! Don't ask me why, but all these years I thought rkkwan was your dad! Oops!

Waiting for your pictures of Lugano. I was there a couple of years ago as a day trip when my sister and I stayed in Bellagio.

Thanks again for such great detail in your report. Can't wait for the next installment.

Johanna
gracie04 is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 08:44 AM
  #55  
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
yk: what a great trip report! Looking at the pictures you posted of Luzern brought back a lot of memories of my trip in 1998. Ahhh. . . .

Thank you for the section on Geneva. I'm heading there on a day trip in November. I loved the photos you posted from there as well.

I'm looking forward to reading more.

TR
TravelRibbon is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 09:02 AM
  #56  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
swandav, your current trip sounds lovely! You are right, we <i>were</i> in Montreux on a Friday when we saw all those market stalls. Gstaad looks beautiful when our train passed through... isn't it where all the billionaires, royal families, and celebrities go? Are you one of them?

Johanna, we had the most beautiful weather in Lugano, and I took the most pictures there. But you'd have to wait a few days before I "get" to the Lugano chapter.

TravelRibbon, enjoy your visit to Geneva. Only 1 day though?
yk is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 09:43 AM
  #57  
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 23,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Of course swandav is a billionaire. Who else can feel Montreux like a second home? Kekeke.
rkkwan is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 02:09 PM
  #58  
yk
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 25,885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<b>CHAPTER 4 continued - Interlaken and Beyond

Day 6
Splitting our ways... yk goes hiking in Wengen & Lauterbrunnen!</b>

Today is the final day we have in the Interlaken/Berner Oberland region. rkkwan and our parents went to Jungfraujoch. I didn't go with them; one reason being I had already been there in 2003, another reason being that it costs 124 CHF for the trip, despite the Swiss Pass discount. I'd rather save some money and spend my time exploring other parts of Berner Oberland.

Since they were going to Jungfraujoch by way of Lauterbrunnen and Klein Scheidegg, I decided to take the train with them. At Lauterbrunnen, we switched to the Wengernalp cog railway for Kleine Scheidegg. However, I got off at <b>Wengen</b>, the last stop fully covered by the Swiss Pass.

Cog railway car at Wengen Station: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6225.jpg

Most of you are probably familiar with Wengen. In any case, Wengen is a car-free mountain resort perched on a plateau 480m above the Lauterbrunnen valley. Given this is a Monday morning, Wengen was rather quiet and I saw few people around.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6231.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6230.jpg

I stopped by the tourist office to inquire about the hiking path down to Lauterbrunnen, as the hiking map I have lists 2 different routes. They recommended #48, which begins on the other side of the rail station. You can see the trail map here, with Route #48 at the bottom R hand corner:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6224.jpg

Then I started my 2-mile descent. In the first 10 minutes or so, I passed by dozens of Wengen hotels, homes and chalets.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6235.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6240.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6239.jpg

Then the path led to open land. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6242.jpg

Soon, I reached a pine forest, where the path zig-zags down the mountain. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6244.jpg

When I emerged from the forest 10 minutes later ,the wide expanse of the Lauterbrunnen Valley opened up before my eyes.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6246.jpg

Over the next 20 minutes, the town of Lauterbrunnen grew larger as I continued my way down. Staubbach Falls became more apparent as well.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6253.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6249.jpg

It took me about an hour to get down (less time if I hadn't stop frequently for photos!) During the hour, I came across perhaps a dozen or so hikers heading uphill. Not an easy climb as it's a rather steep path!

I headed for the main street in <b>Lauterbrunnen</b>, with a quick stop inside the tourist office to check for directions to Trummelbach Falls 2 miles away. I was told to follow the trail along the West side of the valley. A 15-min walk down the path led me right to the foot of <b>Staubbach Falls</b>! I hadn't realize that you can visit it for free. A steep path takes you up to the mountain side, then a tunnel followed by a series of slippery steps bring you right behind the waterfall! What a wonderful detour.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6263.jpg
Looking out from behind the falls: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6265.jpg
Looking back towards Lauterbrunnen (note the rainbow in bottom L hand corner):
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6269.jpg

At the point where the Staubbach Falls path merges with the main trail, is a shaded area with a stonewall and a water fountain with fresh-flowing water from the falls. I decided to make this my lunch spot; so there I was, sitting on the stonewall facing this gorgeous waterfall eating my picnic lunch. And with fresh water to wash down the food too! It couldn't get any better than this.

Looking back at Staubbach Falls: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6274.jpg

There are 2 more waterfalls on the west side of the valley after Staubbach Falls. There is a sign (in both German and English) at each place that provides information about the waterfall. About 25 minutes into the trail after my lunch break, the path turns eastward and crosses the valley floor and the Weisse Lütschine River to reach Trummelbach Falls on the east side of the valley.

Crossing the Lauterbrunnen Valley:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6277.jpg

When I arrived at the <b>Trummelbach Falls</b> entrance, I was rather perplexed: I couldn't see nor hear a waterfall. Admission is 11 CHF but I got 1 CHF off by using the Interlaken visitors card issued by our hotel.
http://www.truemmelbachfaelle.ch/enmain2/main2.php

What I didn't know is that Trummelbach Falls is series of 10 glacier falls that run <i>within the mountain</i>. I followed the path which led me to an elevator within the mountain. The elevator takes you up to a height between the 6th and the 7th falls. The rest is accessed by (a lot of) steps. Here's a sign that explains it: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6288.jpg

The highest falls are hidden between rock formations; only a sliver of sunlight passes through the rocks. Standing in this semi-darkness, feeling the chilly water mist, and hearing the thunderous noise caused by the power of the water, was truly awe-inspiring.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6286.jpg

Looking back towards Lauterbrunnen:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6287.jpg

Instead of taking the elevator down, I walked down the steps built into the mountain-side to view the lower level falls. These run closer to the outside of the mountain.

There is a bus stop right outside of Trummelbach Falls' entrance, where you can take the bus to/from Lauterbrunnen. I decided to walk back. Instead of taking the same trail back, I chose a different one. This trail runs along the bank of the <b>Weisse Lütschine river</b>; not only it's quite scenic, it is also more shaded than the first one I took.

Back in Lauterbrunnen, I took the train towards Interlaken but got off at <b>Wilderswil</b>. As it was still early, I decided to walk from Wilderswil back to Interlaken, via Ruine Unspunnen (route #71 on my hiking map; 2 miles). Unfortunately, I don't recommend this. I did get a wonderful view of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau from Wilderswil-Dorf;
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6292.jpg
and the trail even passed by the Rugenbrau Brewery. http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...0/IMG_6294.jpg
However, a good portion of the trail is on the road shared with cars but without sidewalk, while other sections aren't necessarily scenic. Nonetheless, I had a good work-out as I walked at least 9 miles today.
yk is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 02:35 PM
  #59  
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16,658
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am SO glad to find this! I was wondering if you had done it yet. Oh what a GREAT report and photos.

We LOVED Switzerland. We only stayed a few nights in Montreux in July of 2007. It was a "fill in" stop - as I needed to fill in several nights of our trip due to a huge change. We stayed right on the lake at the http://www.suisse-majestic.com/ which I think might actually be in one of your photos... as it was right in front of the ferry stop. We did walk to the Chateau de Chillon ~ and took the ferry back. It ended up being one of our favorite days on our trip and I have always wanted to return and experience more of Switzerland since that time.
MomDDTravel is offline  
Old Oct 7th, 2010, 08:43 PM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh yeah, right! Of course.

Yes, Gstaad has been home to the richnfamous since about the 1950s, and folks like Julie Andrews, David Niven, Elizabeth Taylor have lived there. For that reason, they have the very best window-shopping (!) and dining that I've found in such a small village. They also have a small airstrip between it and Sannen where I've seen those little private jets land . . .

But luckily I found a 4-star hotel just steps away from the pedestrian street that goes for just 155 chf/night. And the hiking in the hills above town is stunning. They also have an incredible music festival in August.

In Montreux, I've found an apartment that sits in Veytaux just steps from my old school -- rents for about 400 chf/week!

Yeah, they were putting up the stalls along the lake last night -- it does have such a bad effect on the views, waaah. But the $10 ice cream cone was great, lol, and I enjoyed watching the people, children, dogs, and joggers parade by. ahhhhh

Still loving your report!

s
swandav2000 is online now  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -