TR: Self indulgence in London and Venice
Oct 16th, 2014, 09:10 AM
#41
jj - what a nice thing to do! I do wonder if though you'd have had more takers if you'd said the ticket was 1/2 price. we brits tend to be quite cautious when it comes to getting something for free - we wonder what the catch is!
I only went to the silver vaults once, despite its being on my doorstep when I worked in central London. I love the chocolate pot - the only item I have from there is the silver tray that I was given by my colleagues when I left to move to Cornwall - it's very decorative but not as useful!
I only went to the silver vaults once, despite its being on my doorstep when I worked in central London. I love the chocolate pot - the only item I have from there is the silver tray that I was given by my colleagues when I left to move to Cornwall - it's very decorative but not as useful!
Oct 16th, 2014, 11:27 AM
#42
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As ever, an enjoyable report.
Sometimes, aching feet/ankles can be due to something you're unused to carrying - a heavy bag, backpack, or camera slung round your neck.
Or just strange concrete - first day in Manhattan I walked 60 blocks and ended up with a blister - never usually get one - blamed it on the extra hard New York sidewalks…
Sometimes, aching feet/ankles can be due to something you're unused to carrying - a heavy bag, backpack, or camera slung round your neck.
Or just strange concrete - first day in Manhattan I walked 60 blocks and ended up with a blister - never usually get one - blamed it on the extra hard New York sidewalks…
Oct 16th, 2014, 12:09 PM
#43
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi JANISJ,
Glad you made it to the Silver Vaults and Mansion House.
Was the tour full for Mansion House? And did you notice heavy security? I noticed the guide's assistant counting heads every time we moved from room to room. Just wondering...
Glad you made it to the Silver Vaults and Mansion House.
Was the tour full for Mansion House? And did you notice heavy security? I noticed the guide's assistant counting heads every time we moved from room to room. Just wondering...
Oct 17th, 2014, 02:50 AM
#45
Just caught up with this (am traveling). I will be (too briefly) in London at the end of this trip in December, so it's helpful as well as a good read. Thanks so much for the V&A exhibit info. The V&A is my favorite museum, and the costume gallery one of my favorite sections. Will definitely pre-buy a ticket for the wedding gowns. I haven't been to the Silver Vaults, but once upon a time I had a boyfriend whose father sold silver wine labels down the Portobello Road on Saturdays, and I would like to pick up one or two. So that and Mansion House sounds like a good Tuesday.
Totally agree about biz class spoiling you, but I'm not sure American is specially good. I'd put in a good word for Qantas. My last biz class flight (on miles, always on miles these days!) was BKK to LHR. Lovely meal, good wine, after-dinner liqueur, and then I was handed PJs to go with the lie flat seats! I slept until breakfast time, and that flight would have been torture in economy.
Feel for you about the feet. I am currently limping around Szeged, and hoping this won't be a repeat of my sore foot tour in 2007, which also included Venice...
Totally agree about biz class spoiling you, but I'm not sure American is specially good. I'd put in a good word for Qantas. My last biz class flight (on miles, always on miles these days!) was BKK to LHR. Lovely meal, good wine, after-dinner liqueur, and then I was handed PJs to go with the lie flat seats! I slept until breakfast time, and that flight would have been torture in economy.
Feel for you about the feet. I am currently limping around Szeged, and hoping this won't be a repeat of my sore foot tour in 2007, which also included Venice...
Oct 19th, 2014, 08:55 AM
#50
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was supposed to write my report but got caught up reading yours. We loved the Courtauld & Fortnum and this is bringing back a lot of wonderful memories. Immensely enjoying your recap, can't wait for Venice.
Oct 19th, 2014, 09:06 AM
#51
Original Poster
Wed. Oct 1: South Kensington to St Marks Square Venice
Booked a 2:30PM easyJet flight from LGW to Venice. I've decided I'll try to avoid 0-dark-thiry flights from now on. Not once on this trip did I need to get up at the crack of dawn and it was lovely. All I had left in the flat was some orange juice and chocolate digestives -- so that was breakfast
. This morning was the first actual rain I've seen (it had been drippy one evening but not enough to worry about). Possibly because of the rain -- but waiting more than 5 minutes at 10AM didn't see a single available cab. So went back inside and had the hotel call me a driver and I got to Victoria in plenty of time. Bought a return Gatwick Express ticket . . and as soon as I sat down on the train "Duh, you dummy! You aren't going back into central London when you fly back. You're taking a coach from LGW to LHR." I just bought the return ticket by habit. It wasn't the first or last thing I'd 'eat'.
At LGW I ate lunch in the Cafe Rouge before heading to the gate. As others often post -- easyJet is great but one need to pay attention to fees/rules. I travel carry-on only. But my normal roll aboard is a bit larger than their cabin limit. But they do offer SB (Speedy Boarding) that allows a larger cabin bag, front of the plane seating, and express check in. I can't remember - but I <i>think</i> it cost £15 each way. I opted for that -- the fare was low enough that it was still a bargain. I didn't know what the rules were if I decided to check the prepaid-cabin bag instead. No worries - the agent could not have been nicer -- "You paid for a bag so it can go in the hold or in the cabin".
IMO the virtually no check in line (the regular check in/bag drop queue was ENOURMOUS), priority boarding, and checked bag were more than worth the extra ££. Totally uneventful flight and landed at VCE right on time. I had pre-booked the water bus R-T from VCE to St Mark's. Man (!) is it a long walk from the terminal to the water bus/water taxi dock. I won't complain about LHR again
We landed a little after 5PM and figured I'd arrive in Venice around dusk. Wrong. Between having to wait for my bag, the walk, waiting for the next waterbus, and the loooooooong ride- it was nearly 8PM by the time we disembarked at San Marco. That night I decided I'd 'eat' the return ticket and take a water taxi back to VCE on Saturday.
I booked the hotel All' Angelo because of its location. Many advise against staying near St Mark's because of the crowds and tourist shops. But I only had a few days and wanted to be close to to what I wanted to see/do. The hotel is close to all the touristy restaurants on Calle Larga San Marco (reminded me a LOT of the pedestrian area near SteMichelle Metro station in Paris -- all the photos of food, and hawkers, etc) But the hotel itself is down a quiet side street, has a dock, included breakfast, and is an easy walk to everything between/around Rialto/San Marco. Plus - it is an easy walk even w/ luggage from San Marco w/o having to cross a single bridge. So for my purposes it was perfect w/o breaking the bank. Pros: Location, very friendly/helpful desk staff (except one woman who was a pill), elevator, very quiet, wine bar w/ a free happy hour/antipasti every evening. Cons: my single room was tiny, no English language telly, mosquitoes in the room
(but i found insect repellant at a hardware store so only had one bad night) http://www.allangelo.it/en/
I unpacked and wandered out to get my bearings and see St Mark's at night when the day trippers were gone. It was raining lightly when I arrived but by the time I headed out it had stopped and the wet pavements just added to the ambience in the square w/ all the music, people dancing, - it was just gorgeous w/ the moon/stars peeking out through the broken clouds. Walked around gawping along the grand canal and around the square for maybe 45 mins, it was getting pretty late and I was getting peckish . . so yes I did . . . I ate in one of 'those' touristy restaurants w/ the menu pictures
But had a decent risotto and prosecco (that was the only wine they had by the single glass -- otherwise it would have to be a small bottle and I really didn't want more than one glass). It was fine and being late the area wasn't crowded like during the day.
Back to the hotel and a good night's sleep (no mosquitoes tonight )
Next: Oct 2. More Gawping. Lots of time on the water, 'Living' my own/personal Canaletto Painting
Booked a 2:30PM easyJet flight from LGW to Venice. I've decided I'll try to avoid 0-dark-thiry flights from now on. Not once on this trip did I need to get up at the crack of dawn and it was lovely. All I had left in the flat was some orange juice and chocolate digestives -- so that was breakfast
. This morning was the first actual rain I've seen (it had been drippy one evening but not enough to worry about). Possibly because of the rain -- but waiting more than 5 minutes at 10AM didn't see a single available cab. So went back inside and had the hotel call me a driver and I got to Victoria in plenty of time. Bought a return Gatwick Express ticket . . and as soon as I sat down on the train "Duh, you dummy! You aren't going back into central London when you fly back. You're taking a coach from LGW to LHR." I just bought the return ticket by habit. It wasn't the first or last thing I'd 'eat'.At LGW I ate lunch in the Cafe Rouge before heading to the gate. As others often post -- easyJet is great but one need to pay attention to fees/rules. I travel carry-on only. But my normal roll aboard is a bit larger than their cabin limit. But they do offer SB (Speedy Boarding) that allows a larger cabin bag, front of the plane seating, and express check in. I can't remember - but I <i>think</i> it cost £15 each way. I opted for that -- the fare was low enough that it was still a bargain. I didn't know what the rules were if I decided to check the prepaid-cabin bag instead. No worries - the agent could not have been nicer -- "You paid for a bag so it can go in the hold or in the cabin".
IMO the virtually no check in line (the regular check in/bag drop queue was ENOURMOUS), priority boarding, and checked bag were more than worth the extra ££. Totally uneventful flight and landed at VCE right on time. I had pre-booked the water bus R-T from VCE to St Mark's. Man (!) is it a long walk from the terminal to the water bus/water taxi dock. I won't complain about LHR again
We landed a little after 5PM and figured I'd arrive in Venice around dusk. Wrong. Between having to wait for my bag, the walk, waiting for the next waterbus, and the loooooooong ride- it was nearly 8PM by the time we disembarked at San Marco. That night I decided I'd 'eat' the return ticket and take a water taxi back to VCE on Saturday.
I booked the hotel All' Angelo because of its location. Many advise against staying near St Mark's because of the crowds and tourist shops. But I only had a few days and wanted to be close to to what I wanted to see/do. The hotel is close to all the touristy restaurants on Calle Larga San Marco (reminded me a LOT of the pedestrian area near SteMichelle Metro station in Paris -- all the photos of food, and hawkers, etc) But the hotel itself is down a quiet side street, has a dock, included breakfast, and is an easy walk to everything between/around Rialto/San Marco. Plus - it is an easy walk even w/ luggage from San Marco w/o having to cross a single bridge. So for my purposes it was perfect w/o breaking the bank. Pros: Location, very friendly/helpful desk staff (except one woman who was a pill), elevator, very quiet, wine bar w/ a free happy hour/antipasti every evening. Cons: my single room was tiny, no English language telly, mosquitoes in the room
(but i found insect repellant at a hardware store so only had one bad night) http://www.allangelo.it/en/I unpacked and wandered out to get my bearings and see St Mark's at night when the day trippers were gone. It was raining lightly when I arrived but by the time I headed out it had stopped and the wet pavements just added to the ambience in the square w/ all the music, people dancing, - it was just gorgeous w/ the moon/stars peeking out through the broken clouds. Walked around gawping along the grand canal and around the square for maybe 45 mins, it was getting pretty late and I was getting peckish . . so yes I did . . . I ate in one of 'those' touristy restaurants w/ the menu pictures
But had a decent risotto and prosecco (that was the only wine they had by the single glass -- otherwise it would have to be a small bottle and I really didn't want more than one glass). It was fine and being late the area wasn't crowded like during the day.Back to the hotel and a good night's sleep (no mosquitoes tonight )
Next: Oct 2. More Gawping. Lots of time on the water, 'Living' my own/personal Canaletto Painting
Last edited by Moderator1; Jun 30th, 2024 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Repaired broken html
Oct 19th, 2014, 09:18 AM
#52
Original Poster
oh jeeze! I almost lost that whole post! ( I compose/write in the dialog box - not in Word first). The stupid site froze after I wrote it and I couldn't highlight/copy and it wouldn't post. I opened another window and could see tessietoes's post but mine wasn't there
Then I went back to the original window and it said File no found
Then I closed/re-opened Fodors and my post was there but it didn't update the number of responses/time stamp or top the thread. WEIRD
Then I went back to the original window and it said File no found
Then I closed/re-opened Fodors and my post was there but it didn't update the number of responses/time stamp or top the thread. WEIRD
Oct 19th, 2014, 05:02 PM
#55
Original Poster
Thurs Oct 2. Free day exploring, Gawping, experiencing Canaletto (and a little Guardi) in real life
I have all day Thursday and Friday and until my 8PM flight to LGW on Saturday. That is enough time to 1) rush around and squeeze in a lot of major sites, or 2) relax, see couple of the biggies, and just absorb some of the scenery. I chose #2. Thursday - wandering around w/o a game plan. Friday - More structured w/ a Secrets of the Doges Palace/Basilica small group tour w/ Walks of Italy, and (sheepish grin) a Gondola ride and maybe a concert. Saturday who knows -- whatever strikes my fancy . . .
They serve breakfast in the hotel from 6:00 to 10:30 and it is included. More than the typical continental breakfast buffet - mostly cold things - pastries/fruit/cereal/juices/cheese/cold meats but also chafing dishes of scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. I ate in two of my three mornings and it was good (except the eggs which were pretty awful - I must believe they were powered). But there was plenty of other options so easy to skip the eggs.
Then out to see things in daylight . . . and the contrast between last night and mid morning is astonishing. Last night there were people around but no crowds/masses. A 10AM the entire San Marco/Grand Canal area is crowded like - take your pick: New Orleans at Mardi Gras, Edinburgh at Hogmanay, any winning city after a Super Bowl victory. Just thousands of people. The lines at the Basilica were already out to the canal. I am sooooo glad I booked a small tour for tomorrow -- some of the folks in these massive lines looked really miserable.
IMO the best deal in Venice (other than free things) is a 24 hour vaporetto pass @ £20. I decided to get a day ticket and just 'go places'. I'd jump on a vaporetto and get off somewhere interesting, wander around/gawp, jump on another vaporetto -- sometimes not even caring which line, repeat. I basically spent all day on the water and in various neighborhoods sort of getting lost in the ambience of Venice. It is absolutely the most photogenic major city anywhere. With surprises around every corner, across every canal. I lost track but I think I took the vaporetti 10 0r 11 times during the day. I don't even know all the names of some of the churches and squares I saw but I between my camera and mini iPad took about 250 photos during the day.
Every once in awhile I'd see a view identical to one of the many of Canaletto paintings I've seen. Venice basically looks exactly the same as it did when he was painting in the 18th century, it is really just the costume the crowds are weary that is different. My hotel was an easy walk from both Rialto and San Marco so a couple times during the day I popped in to drop things off, or change clothes/freshen up.
Did a tiny bit of shopping -- mostly small things for friends plus a gorgeous cotton blouse like nothing I've ever seen before, from a small shop that only had blouses and men's shirts. I think it was €79 (or maybe €89 - but who's counting) and I could have picked 4 or 5 different styles. Beautifully tailored w/ unique collars.
I don't see the style I bought here but they give you the idea. http://www.nara-camicie.it/wp/gallery-portfolio/
I stopped by the hotel again to check out the happy hour - and honestly could have made a full meal out of the buffet they laid out. You pay for wine but during happy hour the food is free. Then out again and more vaporetto rides/exploring
I finally returned to the hotel after 10PM totally corked but a great day. . . Until I hit the pillow and could hear the mosquitos buzzing around my ears. I HATE mosquitos -- and it wasn't because my window was open, there is a room ac and my windows were shut the entire time. I killed 3 but there were more of the buggers and I had a very fitful night.
Next: Friday - Walks of Italy, Gondola, Vivaldi/Pachelbel concert, and proposals and weddings everywhere!
I have all day Thursday and Friday and until my 8PM flight to LGW on Saturday. That is enough time to 1) rush around and squeeze in a lot of major sites, or 2) relax, see couple of the biggies, and just absorb some of the scenery. I chose #2. Thursday - wandering around w/o a game plan. Friday - More structured w/ a Secrets of the Doges Palace/Basilica small group tour w/ Walks of Italy, and (sheepish grin) a Gondola ride and maybe a concert. Saturday who knows -- whatever strikes my fancy . . .
They serve breakfast in the hotel from 6:00 to 10:30 and it is included. More than the typical continental breakfast buffet - mostly cold things - pastries/fruit/cereal/juices/cheese/cold meats but also chafing dishes of scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. I ate in two of my three mornings and it was good (except the eggs which were pretty awful - I must believe they were powered). But there was plenty of other options so easy to skip the eggs.
Then out to see things in daylight . . . and the contrast between last night and mid morning is astonishing. Last night there were people around but no crowds/masses. A 10AM the entire San Marco/Grand Canal area is crowded like - take your pick: New Orleans at Mardi Gras, Edinburgh at Hogmanay, any winning city after a Super Bowl victory. Just thousands of people. The lines at the Basilica were already out to the canal. I am sooooo glad I booked a small tour for tomorrow -- some of the folks in these massive lines looked really miserable.
IMO the best deal in Venice (other than free things) is a 24 hour vaporetto pass @ £20. I decided to get a day ticket and just 'go places'. I'd jump on a vaporetto and get off somewhere interesting, wander around/gawp, jump on another vaporetto -- sometimes not even caring which line, repeat. I basically spent all day on the water and in various neighborhoods sort of getting lost in the ambience of Venice. It is absolutely the most photogenic major city anywhere. With surprises around every corner, across every canal. I lost track but I think I took the vaporetti 10 0r 11 times during the day. I don't even know all the names of some of the churches and squares I saw but I between my camera and mini iPad took about 250 photos during the day.
Every once in awhile I'd see a view identical to one of the many of Canaletto paintings I've seen. Venice basically looks exactly the same as it did when he was painting in the 18th century, it is really just the costume the crowds are weary that is different. My hotel was an easy walk from both Rialto and San Marco so a couple times during the day I popped in to drop things off, or change clothes/freshen up.
Did a tiny bit of shopping -- mostly small things for friends plus a gorgeous cotton blouse like nothing I've ever seen before, from a small shop that only had blouses and men's shirts. I think it was €79 (or maybe €89 - but who's counting) and I could have picked 4 or 5 different styles. Beautifully tailored w/ unique collars.
I don't see the style I bought here but they give you the idea. http://www.nara-camicie.it/wp/gallery-portfolio/
I stopped by the hotel again to check out the happy hour - and honestly could have made a full meal out of the buffet they laid out. You pay for wine but during happy hour the food is free. Then out again and more vaporetto rides/exploring
I finally returned to the hotel after 10PM totally corked but a great day. . . Until I hit the pillow and could hear the mosquitos buzzing around my ears. I HATE mosquitos -- and it wasn't because my window was open, there is a room ac and my windows were shut the entire time. I killed 3 but there were more of the buggers and I had a very fitful night.
Next: Friday - Walks of Italy, Gondola, Vivaldi/Pachelbel concert, and proposals and weddings everywhere!
Last edited by Moderator1; Jun 30th, 2024 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Repaired broken html
Oct 19th, 2014, 06:49 PM
#56
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JANISJ,
" My hotel was an easy walk from both Rialto and San Marco so a couple times during the day I popped in to drop things off, or change clothes/freshen up."
Excellent. I love a hotel near to the center of the action.
" My hotel was an easy walk from both Rialto and San Marco so a couple times during the day I popped in to drop things off, or change clothes/freshen up."
Excellent. I love a hotel near to the center of the action.
Oct 19th, 2014, 09:37 PM
#59
Sounds like my kind of day in Venice! But sorry to hear the crowds are still so bad, I'm hoping they'll have dropped off some by November. But I don't HAVE to see the basilica again. And I thought there was a trick to avoiding the line by checking a bag nearby?
Feel for you about the mosquitos. They absolutely love me - I'm walking insect repellent for anyone with me - and I get itchy bumps when bitten. I recently changed hotels because of one bite!
Feel for you about the mosquitos. They absolutely love me - I'm walking insect repellent for anyone with me - and I get itchy bumps when bitten. I recently changed hotels because of one bite!
Oct 20th, 2014, 05:18 AM
#60
thursdaysd - you can book a slot to see the Basilica for free I think - see below:
http://www.venetoinside.com/en/attra...-availability/
the website for the Bailica itself is here:
http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/eng/index.bsm
Sorry about the mossies - a few years ago we were caught out in Amsterdam by them and ever since we have carried one of those plug-in deterrents as well as the stuff you spray on. The only time we had to use it was in NZ last year but it's been our insurance policy against them for 20 years or so.
http://www.venetoinside.com/en/attra...-availability/
the website for the Bailica itself is here:
http://www.basilicasanmarco.it/eng/index.bsm
Sorry about the mossies - a few years ago we were caught out in Amsterdam by them and ever since we have carried one of those plug-in deterrents as well as the stuff you spray on. The only time we had to use it was in NZ last year but it's been our insurance policy against them for 20 years or so.
