Rhonda

In Volterra, highly recommend you visit Web & Wine Internet Cafe. Not only is it a great chance to post home some emails but also the floor is glass with ruins lit beneath - loved it!

Dean

I agree on Panzano. The church up the hill has amazing modern doors. Also Vescovino is nice flor lunch. The owners there also own an enotecca on the main road, Baldi. Baldi has a superb selection of ines and offers a delightful selection by the glass. Their cheese selection is above average as well. <BR> <BR>Thanks for the other ideas in Volterra. <BR> <BR>If you love Barbi Brunello, look out for Argiano. I think its my favorite producer right now along with Constanti. Cant wait for the 1997's to start showing up. We will be back to Montalcino either in May or July.

Dean

I forgot to mention Arezzo <BR> <BR>Arezzo is a must for two of the best artistic sights in Italy. One sublime and one over the top. <BR> <BR>FOr the sublime, stop into San Francesco and see the Pierro della Francesca fresco cycle. The restoration of the first half took 7 years and the second side was completed in about a year in time for the Jubilee. I understand you have to reserve or buy tickets. Della Francesca is one of the foundations of the Renaissance. His use of color and perspective were incredible. His naturalism is unsurpassed for the time he was working. But he was one odd bird to say the least. His compositions are etherial and downright spooky. And his compositions also had to live up to his theories about perspective and symmetry. For example the frescos here at Arezzo are not arranged in chronological or narrative order. They are arranged so that the panels face each other in pairs with a similar composition. That is a battle scene is lined up opposite a battle scene, a beautiful woman opposite another beautiful woman! Twisted as I said! <BR> <BR>The second sight is Vasarri's house. It's up the hill from San Francesco and just a short walk away. Vassaru gets a raw deal in history. He was the court Architech and artist of the Medici's. He painted the inside of the dome in Florence's duomo. Since this covered up the inside of Brunelleschi's amazing dome V has been villified. In addition he also wrote a history of the artists that included fabrications, rumors, tall tales etc. Livy did the same in his history of Rome and is one if the greats of intellectual history. But enough of defending V. <BR> <BR>His house was his magnum opus. He frescoed and painted every bit of the place. He used evert trick in the book. There is one room where the perspective is perfect from all 4 sides. Some figures change expression when you look at them from one side or the other. Its so over the top that it is a wonderful confection. Plus you will probably be led around by the old caretaker who speaks no English. He is one of those wonderful people who believes that if someone doesn't understand him the first time, they will understand the second(or third or fourteenth time) is he shouts louder each time!!! This was something totally unexpected adn one fo the sweetest and most memorable stops in our travels.

dean

Thanks Kelly!

jim

Is the leaning Tower in Pisa open and can you climb the stairs?

Kim

Thanks for the great report, Dean. <BR>I need to make sure--- for that fantastic restaurant La Chiusa, was it $230.00 for 2, or 230.00(0) Lire, (=$115.00)? We'd like to go there. Thanks. Kim

Carin

Oooo, I want to go back! Thanks for a great report, Dean!

Mike Miller

Just returned last week. One meal I had in a small village about 12 kilometers from Siena called Tocchi. The only restaurant in town is called Ristorante Caneze a Tocchi. It's a family run enterprise. The owner/chef has been published in Bon Appetite and Gourmet magazines. He has published a book of his recipies which is available in english. Best meal I've ever had in Italy - possibly the best in my life. It's what makes Tuscany such a wonderful place to visit. Small gems you will only find out about by word of mouth.

Dean

Kim<BR><BR>It was L500,000 or about $230.00 us for this lunch. it was 7 courses, plus dessert, plus grappa with a great bottle of local Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and 2 glasses of champagne. Do go and enjoy!<BR><BR>Mike<BR><BR>Where is the town located? We wnet thru a town called Tocchi and did not see a restaurant, but this town was closer to the A1 i thought. Let me know<BR><BR>Thanks

Kim

Thanks for the clarification, Dean. Kim

Mike Miller

Dean, What a great post. Have you ever considered becoming a travel writer?

Dean

Id love to be a travel writter but I havent figured out how to go about it. I have a series of humerous stories involving travel and then my experiences. I keep writting and one day I'll get it figured out.<BR><BR>Thanks for the nice words

dean

topping for Deb

Dean

topping for kathy

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Topping for Joshua !

t

just topping so i can find this tomorrow to print out at work! Thanks for the great report Dean!

Miki

If you want to stay in a beautiful place on the Tuscan coast, I would suggest Monte Argentario. It is in the southern part of Tuscany just in front of Giglio and Giannutri islands and close to many of the most interesting sites in Tuscany (Saturnia, Montalcino, Capalbio ect). Take a look at this site for accommodation and more information: http://www.villalacornovaglia.com

topper

topping

dean

topping for the person whose name i forgot but who has 4 days in florence and toscanna. I'd say stay in Castellina or San gim area and then day trip into0 florence if you wnat to see hill towns.

dean

topping for pam