Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

This Pirate goes to Penzance, and then on to the land of Fire and Ice

Search

This Pirate goes to Penzance, and then on to the land of Fire and Ice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 28th, 2017, 12:28 PM
  #41  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What can I say about St. Michael's Mount that hasn't already been said? Hah! I have it. Be sure to have the cream tea and scones in the little coffee shop. Those scones are THE BEST.

Fool for Gardens that I am (DW too) I had to go to St. MM, besides, everyone on fodors who commented said to go there. I was also anxious to go because we would see it everyday from our room. When we arrived it was high tide so we took the little launch across the water, disembarked and made our first decision - castle and gardens or just gardens. We opted for just gardens since we did not feel like climbing up to the castle - if only we had known it was for naught - and that we wanted to spend maximum garden time. It was a beautiful and sunny day. We began with the free and short guided tour led by one of the gardeners who pointed out some interesting plants, especially the 100 year Agave far above. This plant is somewhat misnamed because although it takes years to bloom, it is not 100 years. There was one in bloom that was about 30 years old so we were in luck that we were there to see it since after blooming, it dies. It gives its all for its bloom, sent as a very tall spike from the plant's center. I believe he said the castle had 5 of these plants.

The interesting part of the gardens, which go all around the castle, is that they are vertical gardens. That is they are planted to be enjoyed from above rather than at eye level. So, there are lots of stairs going up through the garden all of the way to the level of the castle, hence the "if we had only known" comment above. Stairs when visiting St. MM cannot be avoided unless one is content with looking at things from below or sitting at the coffee shop and enjoying a cream tea and scones.

Each of the gardeners is responsible for a section of the whole and puts his/her personal touch on the plantings and this increases the interest of the effect. These may be the most beautiful gardens I have ever seen for the uniqueness of its vertical orientation and huge variety of plants all in a setting that is compact compared to other gardens. Calling these gardens a riot of color and interest is no exaggeration.

We stayed for a good part of the day, finishing up with the cream tea and scones recommended above, that is I did. Gluten free DW had the soup which was served with bread. She asked if by any chance they might have gluten free bread, and they did. DW pronounce her soup and bread excellent as well, but I feel sorry for her poor soul for missing out on the scones.

After our stint at the coffee shop, we headed back. By this time the tide had already gone out, so we were able to walk along the cobblestone causeway to land, explore the town a bit and head back for a shower and rest before dinner.

A word about gluten free bread. Nearly every place we ate had it if asked. Even the Marks and Spencer shop sandwiches at Paddington and sandwich shop at Heathrow. Not only that, but it actually tastes like bread. Why can't we find tasty gluten free bread in the US? We have tried every kind including from specialty bakers but none compares well with what was available in the UK. What is their secret?

Next: Dinner at Blacks - our final dinner in Penzance and trip back to Londontown.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 12:35 AM
  #42  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
I'm so glad that you were able to get gluten-free bread that was so good, B'stoke. It's not a problem that we have in our family but I know that it's quite widespread in the UK so perhaps it is a case of the demand driving up standards. good to hear anyway.

We have never done a guided tour of the gardens but have been round them once or twice; IMO they are best at the end of the season but they are spectacular whenever you go, if only for their position which as you describe so well is vertiginous. The interior of the Castle is not to my mind the most interesting I've been in but the situation and the views may be thought worth the effort. I know that there is a fodorite [Carolyn perhaps?] who was so impressed by a window seat in the library that she wanted to reproduce it in her own house.

As for the journey there and back, a friend of mine used to work as a security guard on the Mount and at the end of his shift he would drive back over the causeway [when it was possible]; on one occasion he misjudged the timing and even though he was in a Landrover, he was almost swept away by the incoming tide. Very scary.
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 02:42 AM
  #43  
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 42,635
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
As I repeatedly tried, and failed, to answer Basingstoke2's question, repeatedly last night on this wonderfully functional site: unfortunately when we are there the Minack is doing "As You Like It" which we have never particularly "liked" so have decided to pass.

I have a feeling I'll be stressed out from all this NASCAR driving in the area and will need a rest.

Enjoying, thoroughly, this excellent report. Perhaps we can get St. Cirq to turn it into a screenplay.
Dukey1 is online now  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 04:25 AM
  #44  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Dukey, thank you for your very kind thoughts. You may enjoy a performance at the Penlee Park Theatre. Check out the event schedule at: www.penleeparktheatre.com

Penlee Park is an easy walk from the Promenade, perhaps a bit longer from downtown - a good street map will get you there or even better, a taxi. On the event schedule you will see a group called the Illyria players. This is the group that we saw at the Minack. Be sure to see the exhibit at Penlee House. Morab gardens are close by as well.

St. Cirq do a screenplay? Sure, why not - she writes well. Perhaps she will do it in French.

Annhig, if the gardens are best at the end of the season I can only imagine since they were fantastic at the beginning. I will post some photos later today but be forewarned, the photos do not nearly do the gardens justice.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 05:23 AM
  #45  
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,652
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 1 Post
Dukey -- I highly recommend going to Minack just to admire the beautiful amphitheater, gardens and the views. It is really stunning and the fact that it was one woman's vision is remarkable.
yestravel is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 06:58 AM
  #46  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
I agree with yestravel Dukey, - a day time visit [on a day when there is not a matinee when they close the theatre to the rest of the public] is a real joy, if only for the stunning setting, but there is a lot more there are yes travel has said.

Down in the valley there is also the Telegraph museum [really useful on a slightly dodgy day but interesting at any time] and a rather indifferent pub, which sadly does not make the most of its situation. Better bets are the nearby Logan's Rock and Lamorna Wink, down in Lamorna, so called because [allegedly] the customs men used to turn a blind eye to the smuggling that went on there.

Other theatre options are the Princess Pavillion and the Falmouth Poly, [both in Falmouth but with very little on offer in August] and there may also be theatrical events on at the Lost gardens of Heligan [quite a way from Falmouth it must be said] and at Trebah gardens, which are much closer.

Dukey, I just went to the Minack website to see when As you like it is on, [in order to see what the other offerings at that time might be] and i can't find it. There is A Comedy of Errors, followed by Twelfth Night, so I'm a bit confused:

https://www.minack.com/2017season/

anyway, at Trebah the Miracle Theatre is giving its "Third Policeman" on 11th and 12 th August; they are a very good local company with usually a qwerky twist on whatever they are doing. [their Cinderella this last Christmas was a hoot!]

http://www.trebahgarden.co.uk/whats-on

http://heligan.com/events/heligan-ev...woodland-ball/
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 07:02 AM
  #47  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I agree with yestravel that you might well enjoy seeing the place during the day even if you do not attend a performance. If you go and are using a garmin, enter Minack outdoor theatre, not just minack theatre. When we entered the latter we were taken on a wild goose chase down a myriad of country lanes, none correct.

Dukey, In my description of the place I kept in mind your husbear, who if I have been reading your posts correctly,I get the impression that he has some increasing physical limitations.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 08:11 AM
  #48  
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,652
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 1 Post
We were at the Minack theater on a matinee day -- we didn't know this. We still could go on the gounds and into the theater. Ann lives there and may know something about rules that I don't, but that was our experience in late May. We did see some people with limited mobility enjoying parts of the area. But as basingstoke has aptly described the walk/climb down the amphitheater could be difficult. You can get a good idea with the pictures.
yestravel is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 10:06 AM
  #49  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
yestravel - that's not been my experience but of course they change their rules all the time. It may be that if it's not too full for the matinee they let people into the top to see the exhibition and use the cafe.

https://www.minack.com/times-prices/

The website agrees with what I remember - the site is closed it says if there is a performance on - but if it's not very full they may relax the rule. To be safe, I would go on a day where there is no matinee scheduled.
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 03:18 PM
  #50  
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 11,652
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 1 Post
Interesting. I interpret it a little differently. It opens at 9:30. It sounds as if it is closed when the performance is on. We were there well before the show was scheduled to begin, probably 11ish.
As we drove in the parking attendant asked if we were staying for the show (we didn't even know there was a show that day.). He then directed us in one direction. We bought our tickets and had complete access to the theater and grounds. In any case maybe plan to go on a non matinee day.
yestravel is offline  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 04:48 PM
  #51  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
https://basingstoke2.smugmug.com/organize/Cornwall

Above is a link to photos that I took in and about Penzance. I can't figure out how to label them, so: Photo #1 is the Egyptian House, circa mid 19th century; #2 is what remains of the Penzance Synagogue, first built in 1768 and used until 1906. It is now part of the Star Inn but not used. The windows seen are the only parts that are said to be orginal; 4-6 is the Terrace of Penlee House and Penlee Park; 9-20 Morrab Subtropical Gardens; 21-26 the Stanley Guest House, our room is at top right and views from our window; 27-35 around St. Ives; 36 DW at the Geever Tin Mine; 37-41 Land's End, the second of these is what you see upon entering; 42-43 stage at Minack; 45 - end is our visit to St. Michael's Mount and Gardens.

Our last meal was at Blacks on Chapel Street. There are several well known restaurants on this street including the Turks Head Pub and Restaurant which was our second choice if we could not get into Blacks without a reservation. We chose Blacks because of its menu which was heavy on fish and vegetarian dishes, so would suit DW well. We were able to get a table there but they were turning people away soon after we were seated, so we were lucky. This is a small, obviously popular, and simple place with fine food. We both ordered the whole sole which was perfectly done, Cornwall seems to know how to cook fish. I had pear cider with mine which was a perfect match to the delicate taste of the sole. It was a fine end to our Penzance visit.

We caught the 9:50am train to London the next morning after returning our Jeep. The fellow at Europcar seemed like he was going to charge us a bogus charge for tire damage of which there was none. Upon my return home I checked and there were no extra charges. I would have challenged them if there were.

The ride back to London was as scenic as the ride to Penzance and I waved to annhig as we passed through Truro - did you see us Ann?

The train arrived in Paddington about 1/2 hour late and since our hotel, the Darlington was supposed to be a short 5 minute walk from the station, we got out our sat nav to show us the way. Which it didn't. Leaving the Plaide exit the sat nav told us to turn right which we did. After 3 blocks, it changed its "mind" and told us to turn back. I stopped a taxi at this point but he would not take us since our hotel was so close and he gave us directions which were partially correct. Finally we found the Darlington after a walk of close to 1/2 an hour. It is on a road called Sussex Gardens, which is one of those roads where nearly every building is a hotel. If you want a hotel near Paddington, Sussex Gardens is a good choice because if you go correctly, it is a fairly short walk from the station and a pleasant tree lined road. What we should have done, is instead of turning, just walk straight down London St to Sussex Gardens. Our hotel was then a short walk to our left. Easy and quick.

We were shown to our thankfully ground floor room #10 and were pleasantly surprised. It was a nice sized room with an alcove entryway with a dressing area and bathroom on the side. A very convenient layout. There was no A/C but there was an efficient fan, so we were comfortable on what was a very warm night. The bathroom looked brand new and modern with a terrific shower and soaking tub. Dinner was taken at a local pub called the Monkey Puzzle and the Fish and Chips were OK, not the best, but OK. A nice ale washed it down.

The Darlington serves an excellent included breakfast which combines a full buffet with a menu. Eat all you like.

In the morning we walked back to Paddington along the route that we should have taken in the first place and it took 10 minutes dragging our luggage behind. Then on to Heathrow Express to Heathrow and lunch at Heathrow before boarding our flight to the Land of Fire and Ice.

Next: We arrive in Calcutta on a bad day.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 29th, 2017, 05:14 PM
  #52  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
BTW, you can see the 100 year Agave, it is the 7th and 8th from the end. Also, # 37 is what you see upon entering Land's End
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 30th, 2017, 10:53 AM
  #53  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Interesting. I interpret it a little differently. It opens at 9:30. It sounds as if it is closed when the performance is on. We were there well before the show was scheduled to begin, probably 11ish.>>

yestravel - you have expressed what I was trying to say - it is closed to the public when a performance is on, but is otherwise open to visitors who are not attending a performance. Sorry for the confusion.

<<The ride back to London was as scenic as the ride to Penzance and I waved to annhig as we passed through Truro - did you see us Ann?>>

Sorry B'stoke, I just missed you. I'm so glad that you found the Egyptian House - it's one of those things which never ceases to impress visitors who are absolutely unprepared for it. One day when I suppose a case may have finished early or perhaps not been scheduled to last long, I found myself outside when they were having an open day so I was able to go round it which was fascinating. At that time it was furnished and decorated in art deco style with 20s-30s furniture and lighting, and even kitchen and bathroom! I'm not sure that this was too popular with the holiday makers who rented it however and I note that on the present website, the interiors are rather more modern and comfortable:

https://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/sea...8YzFauQpYIBFxX

Your experience of trying but failing to find the hotel reminds me of when we arrived in Vienna; we wandered up and down for about half and hour before we finally discovered we'd walked past it several times. At least when you got to London it wasn't raining!
annhig is offline  
Old Jun 30th, 2017, 12:51 PM
  #54  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes ann, it was not raining but hot. One thing that I did not mention was that when we arrived in London, the biggest thing on the news was the block tower fire. It seemed that it was the only thing on TV and I did get several papers to read about it. As I mentioned on the fodor's thread about the fire, I think the biggest failing was not spending the available money on increasing the fire safety of the building, which it was woefully lacking, but rather on a beautification project. A classic case of misplaced priorities.

The Egyptian House was a surprise and a very photogenic one as well. DW says that of the places we went, she liked wandering Penzance the most and would have been content to spend the entire time in town - she very much enjoyed the ambiance and history of the place and the garden spaces that were in walking distance. I think her driving terrors may have had something to do with that.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jun 30th, 2017, 03:05 PM
  #55  
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Basingstoke, It was wonderful to meet you and DW! I apologize for taking so long to reply. Thank you for a wonderful dinner and a fun evening.

I will begin my trip report shortly as this is my first time on Fodors since returning home on the 23. I seriously underestimated how much energy I had for this trip, but ever so glad that I got it in. Met with my oncologist and she has me on a schedule of pain meds now which have me much more comfortable.

One early morning after our dinner I took a walk along the promenade and looked up to the room which you had pointed out to us and I think I saw your wife enjoying the view at the window. I waved and she waved back.
irishface is offline  
Old Jun 30th, 2017, 03:46 PM
  #56  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes Irishface, that was my wife up there. She told me that she saw you and waved back. When I said the dinner was a highlight of the trip, I was not kidding - it was. It was a delightful evening of conversation and good food. The shandys were good too.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jul 1st, 2017, 05:46 AM
  #57  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
In re reading my posts I saw that I left out what could be an important detail. On the Promenade there is a Casino, and in the Casino there is a service laundry. Just leave your things off in the morning and pick them up later in the day sorted and folded in the same container in which you brought them. You can pick up until 10pm, so convenient. It is a bit tricky to find. There is a parking area at the side of the Casino and the entrance is from the parking area. There is a small sign - you cannot see the laundry from the street, so have to know just where it is. We used it and it worked as we were told. We found the price reasonable.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jul 1st, 2017, 07:44 AM
  #58  
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
On the Promenade there is a Casino, and in the Casino there is a service laundry. >>

another useful fact that I have learnt on Fodors! in fact two - I'm not sure that I had ever registered that there was a casino there either. I know where you mean - there is some parking in front of the building, but I've never parked there.

I'm so pleased that you all managed to meet up and sorry to have missed you - it sounds like quite an evening.

<<As I mentioned on the fodor's thread about the fire, I think the biggest failing was not spending the available money on increasing the fire safety of the building, which it was woefully lacking, but rather on a beautification project. A classic case of misplaced priorities.>>

This was but one of the rumours circulating in the terrible days just following the fire. It's now looking as if it was mainly a money-saving exercise but facts are still thin on the ground. We don't even know how many died yet. What we do know is that the survivors are still struggling to obtain proper support and information and some are still being treated heartlessly by officialdom - vis the story this morning that one of them just found that his rent had been deducted from his bank account.

Heads have rolled however [and not before time] - both the chairman and deputy chair of the council have resigned.

It was lovely that you were able to make the trip, irishface - i hope it lived up to expectations; I'm looking forward to reading your TR.
annhig is offline  
Old Jul 1st, 2017, 11:53 AM
  #59  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 18,617
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
On to Iceland, the land of fire and ice. The flight was uneventful and arrived on time. Iceland has become mega popular and seemingly has outgrown its airport. Getting off the plane, all of the gates were jammed with people as were the narrow corridors where the gates were located to the point where it was difficult to walk, numerous young folk just sitting on the floors with backpacks because there were not enough seats at the gates or room to hold them. We carefully picked our way around them to the main area, also crowded. The large number of young people attests to Iceland's attractiveness as a place where hiking and nature hold first place as attractions outside of the capital city and drinking and hookups as capital city attractions, at least according to those locals we spoke with. We rented a car, this time from Avis and were given a VW Golf. They were having a special on automatic upgrades making it a low cost option that I took. I declined extra insurance including those coverages for gravel, ash etc., and as it turned out, I did not need them. Nearly all roads on our itinerary were fine and the few gravel roads we traveled were hard packed.

Our itinerary in iceland was simple. Our first night in Mosfellsbaer, a suburb of Reykjavik, the next 3 nights in Rif, a town that defines the words "small town" on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula near the national park, and our last day in Reykjavik and night night back in Mosfellsbaer. We chose Mosfellsbaer because it was a good jumping of point for our trip to the peninsula. It is also a fine jumping off point for the golden circle.

I will organize the Iceland part of this TR differently, describing lodging, then eating and restaurants,and lastly things that we did and saw.

First, lodging. We spent our first and last nights at the Fitjar Guest House in Mosfellsbaer. It is family run and our Hostess Karen is a Swede who has lived in Iceland some 17 years. This place is a small farm with horses, chickens, rabbits - the usual. Our room was basic, but very clean, with ensuite. We ordered breakfast which is not included. All in all it was a very pleasant place to be. The location can't be beat as a jumping off point for most touring. It is about an hour's drive to the airport. Speaking of airports, there is a small general aviation airport nearby, but the noise of the occasional single engined planes taking off and landing was not disturbing.

In the Snaefellsnes Peninsula we chose an apartment in Rif, a town very near the national park. I will go into the reasons why I thought this would be a great location (I was right) in another post, but we found this apartment to be perfect for us. It was a studio with full cooking facilities and all of the dishes, utensils, pots and pans and stuff that you would ever need. The only thing missing was a microwave, but we did not need one since the 2 burner electric stovetop worked well. The apartments are called North Star, not to be confused with the Hotel by the same name and management in Olafsvik, the next town about 6km away. The price of this apartment was also excellent. Frankly, I did not have high expectations for the apartment, and when I saw the building, they sunk even lower. But, the studio was white glove clean and Ikea modern and a very pleasant surprise. From our window we had a nice view of the glacier as well as nearby fish processing plants and the harbor with its fishing boats, as well as thousand of Artic Terns. These birds are aggressive and do not seem to sleep.

Next, more on lodging and location as well as food.
basingstoke2 is online now  
Old Jul 1st, 2017, 02:34 PM
  #60  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,938
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, it was I who took a picture of the niche in the St. Michael's Mount library. Unfortunately, the quote on one in my house was $13,000, so I have moved that project down the list to such time as I can no longer spend my money on traveling.

Basingstoke, I have really enjoyed reading your TR. We had such a good time spending nearly a week in Penzance--and we did sightsee by bus.
carolyn is online now  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -