"LeMarche sounds intriguing and sort of off the beaten tourist path. Anyone other than Leely2 spent time in that area?"

I saw that you posted on my recent Umbria report, where Le Marche was mentioned. At one point, I mentioned our visit to Le Marche a number of years ago and posted photos. I think this link will help navigate (post 185): Ultimate Umbria in 4 Weeks

Or how about Rapallo/Portofino/Portovenere/Cinque Terre/Genoa & more: Rapallo/Cinque Terre/20 Places/8 Nights Sept/Oct


Cinque Terre

Thanks! I saw the reference to LeMarch in your excellent TR. I have often thought to go to CInque Terre, but it sounds so over touristed. We were in that area offseason once and it ws ok, but that was 10 or more years ago. So just not sure if we would enjoy it. Do you happen to have a link to your apt in Spello? That's one town we're thinking we might stay in for a few days. (I had sent you a pm awhile back re your apt in Rome. ) Thanks!

I sent you the link of the Spello apartment via pm. It felt very much like home, was spacious, and in the center, which means church bells, music from a nearby restaurant, street traffic, etc., but we like being in the middle of things. We slept well between the last and first church bell (11-6), and, as ambitious travelers, that was enough for us. We did find hiking Cinque Terre was not so crowded, and we did it on a beautiful late September day. But some of the towns, especially Vernazza, were ridiculous. Most of the other places on the Italian Riviera were busy but not crazy. We have also been to most of the lakes in the fall, Iseo, Orta, Maggiore, Como and Garda and didn't feel swamped with tourists. We would do both the Italian Riviera and the lakes again in the fall if the opportunity presents itself. And, then there is Sardinia.

Thank you! Yes, I got the link -- looks like such a nice apt. I love church bells and we have stayed beneath them so to speak. I'll have to think about that with a 6 am awakening every morning. So you just spent the day at Cinque Terre stayed in a less crowded town? I've been to the lakes and that has to be the only part of Italy that I didn't fall in love with. I know I may be in the minority on that., but in general I'm not much of a lake person. Not been to Sardinia and have heard its fabulous.

Reasonably priced apartment as well.

And, yes, we stayed in Rapallo, and Cinque Terre was an easy day trip. We had a car, but didn't use it since we were able to walk to Santa Margaita Ligure and Portofino from there and rail to Genoa, Cinque Terre, Portovenere and other places was frequent and easy.

If interested, here is our trip report on Sardinia: Sardinia! You Gotta Go!! 8 nights. October

Instead of staying in one of the Cinque Terre towns, we stayed in Portovenere, which, 20+ years ago, was not yet discovered by Americans and was still mainly a town that Italian families visited. From Portovenere, we were able to take a ferry to the C.T. and walk between a couple of towns, but it was definitely away from the tourist crush. And this was in July! 20+ years ago, of course.

Thanks! For some reason I have no burning desire to spend time in CT. We were there briefly 25+ years ago and it was pouring rain so not a fair time to make any assessment.Who knows, I could end up there though.

That's how I/we have done recent trips. I.e., "I am flying into Venice and out of Bologna, so what looks good in between?" I tend to sandwich smaller towns/countryside in the middle of two cities. Hard to go wrong in Italy--have fun planning!

I agree -- if anything there are just too many choices--all of them good!

Exactly! An embarrassment of riches!

This evening i got into Tuscany and so many places!

Since you will move by car, you have lots of interesting possibilities. Thinking of your interst in art, history and small towns, I would recommend some places close to Rome, like Rieti where you can try the exquisite black and white truffle, Tarquinia discovering the etruscan civilization, lake Bolsena.
Going your way up towards Bologna, a 2-3 days stay in Elba Island would be really great. It is a small island you can easily and shortly reach by ferry. It has wonderful beaches and towns. Moreover autumn is a good time to go there, there are less tourists and the weather is still really nice.
Other very recommended places are Perugia, Urbino, Ferrara, Parma, Reggio-Emilia.
Also considering you are gonna stay in Bologna for some time I would suggest a couple of one-day visits to Dozza and Rocchetta Mattei, two very beautiful hidden gems, off the beaten paths but very suggestive and unique.
If you had never been to Venice I think it is a must-do, it is such a peculiar place with a charming and romantic feeling.

Frankly, moving by car means you see virtually nothing of the country or the people. I would recommend you move by bicycle for some real life affirming experiences. Just because Italy has so much does not mean you have to run around like a kid in a sweet shop. Slow down, eat at small places, stay in small places and enjoy the climate.

I'm not sure what you mean? We would like to spend our time leisurely seeing a few places. I have no intention of "running around like a kid in a sweet shop." Not sure why you got that impression. We are slow travelers. I am trying to pick a couple places to to stay & appreciate hearing everyone's thinking. I would love to bicycle but unfortunately I can't. Instead we walk a lot and spend time just exploring small towns and sites. Sometimes we take trains and sometimes we drive. If you have any suggestions of places to spend time I would appreciate them.

YourtrueItaly--thanks for all the great suggestions. I actually visited Dozza years ago. We happened upon it and spent the day there...charming and the street art was so cool to come upon. Having a contest is such a great idea. I will read about some of the other places you suggest.

The people on bicycles and the people in cars can (and often do) travel on the same roads. You can have life-affirming experiences anywhere, no matter what mode of transportation you use and how you like to travel.

It's your vacation. Have the trip you want.

no kidding! I have to say it was the first time I was accused of traveling like a kid iin a candy store.

I suggest you must visit this please in Italy. It is a food market that you can find on the first Sunday of every month in the city of Venice, Italy. A "passerelle" or a walkway is formed over the Grand Canal with patisseries, fish, cheese, and other food that can be bought. I’ve heard of this market before but I never had the chance to visit it until now.

Yes, that is a great market! Glad you found it. I don't plan on Venice for this trip, but thanks for your thoughts.

Love Portovenere but if you want to do a lot of hikes in CT, it might be a bit inconvenient when there are so many people waiting to board the trains or ferries to CT.

Then again, it's been almost 10 years since the big mudslides? I wonder if any of the paths are reopened by now.

The Portofino promontory area is great too -- Rapallo, SML, Camogli. But if you stay there, CT becomes more of a day trip.


As for the OP, Val d'Orcia is great. Also Palladio buildings in Vicenza and some other nearby cities, but that's further away from Bologna and obviously there are a lot of places in Emiglia Romagna.