Lobo mau et all...
arrived in lisbon friday; today is sunday; this must be the most beautiful city to experience..the trams are fantastic as is the easily accessible things to see walking etc. We've spent the day in Belem and yesterday throughout downtown lisbon; jet lag caused us to miss the market although we were able to walk through and see the plentiful fruits/vegetables flowers. I can only imagine how beautiful it would have been in the middle of the morning. Again, thank you for your help in suggestions; tomorrow to cascais and estoril. The weather, although overcast, is like home and lovely; not too hot yet with patches of sunshine. Without sounding completely touristy- the trams allow you to see virtually each site of interest easily; we especially found walking through downtown interesting..thanks again.

For those interested; day one we stayed at apartments soleplay; I believe it was about 100 euro so maybe 125 dollars/night; great set up; full kitchen, laundry and beautiful facilities; breakfast was plentiful and included. I am not sure of location to trams/buses though; it did seem a bit out of the way as well, but regardless very nice. This weekend there is much going on with rugby; the polish and the danish team were staying in soleplay; very fun to watch as they prepared for their matches. Beautiful infinity pool overlooking the bridge (looks like golden gate)great food at the restaurant.

Nice to know you are enjoying. Watch your pockets while riding the trams.
If you walk along the beach from Estoril to Cascais, the 1st building in Cascais just over the cliffs is Hotel Albatroz (direct access from the beach). This is an upscale hotel. Go there as ask a coffee with a view, but be prepared to pay a few euros for a coffee.

I guess I forgot to update this thread - I'll be in Lisbon November 20-24.

whoops, this isn't the LDC thread. at any rate, I'll be there and would love to meet Matt and Lobo_Mau.

Most hilariously we attempted today to cross the bridge to see christo rei via the bus from caraviao bus area in lisbon; I had forgotten Matt's log and thought we could wing it (he recommended the ferry and then a cab)which certainly made alot more sense... found out the bus to take is the TST bus across which is not part of the carris five day pass I purchased; regardlessly by the time we were oriented and set to go; realized it was pretty late in the day and work started for DH tonite...we changed gears and walked back to pestana (actually pretty interconnected via the buses/trams)stopping for lunch at a great cafe along the way. I am almost certain I ordered chicken but was brought the house specialty at the insistance of the waiter (he was so frustrated (but I think gently so)with my inability to speak- delicious cod - perfectly salted with the accompanying salad - tasty and great with a beer. It was the third time i'd had this dish and by far the best (lightly battered and fried crisp; not too salty. I will post tomorrow the name of the cafe (forgot to grab it will walk by again for sure)...all in all; 4 beers, a meal sized for two, two large rolls and accompanying cheeses - only 13euro.

Lobo_mau and all;

Is there a polite way to decline the appetizers that seem to accompany each meal (ie olives/bread/jamon/cheese)and not be charged for them? Or is this a customary - "you sit down, you enjoy" type of thing? On the day to day it's been a great addition to the meal although this evening I was dining alone and with no one to split this offering; found it far more than necessary food wise. And this evening; after tallying up the bill for one; found these openers adding up to almost 15 euro before the meal itself was even factored in. The restaurant was very warm and hospitable; "solar dos nunes" Rua dos lusiadas (bass grilled with accompanying vegetables) but all in all fairly dear for only one (wound up being +++40 euro with a mini bottle of wine, an entree and a dessert). Not what I would have spent regularly had I fully understood the pricing structure...

For all, as soon as I exited; right up the street was the cafe shop I mentioned above; so between rua dos lusiadas and calcada da tapada on the right hand side - delicious food; quite reasonable (But no name for the shop that I could find); I recommend it definately. Maybe better for my dinner tomorrow...

My understanding is you are only charged for the appetizers if you eat them. If you leave them, you shouldn't be charged.

40 euros is more than I spend during a whole week :-)
You have 2 options, or as suggested by Nikki, let it be and check by the end if it was charged, or then act pro-actively telling the waiter that you don't want that and he should remove it from the table.
Notice that if you are not interested in something you shouldn't touch it at all. As an example, if there is one sliced cheese and you eat a slice, you have to pay for it all. If you eat an olive, you pay for all presented.
If you want to ask a bottle of wine ask for "carta de vinhos" (wines list) where the cost of each wine is writen. This way you avoid surprises, otherwise the waiter has a trend to bring the most expensive.

I was truly shocked. And truth be told, it was exactly that (2 olives; 2 piece cheese,one twisty piece of bread and some peppers.) And like you said, I owned them all!!!

I think the most important part of the equation is to begin with a reasonable choice of restaurant; I think Solar dos nunes may be a special restaurant to share with friends who could help one navigate the menu - not for a solo dinner just passing time; honestly, the grilled fish was not very different from what I had around the corner at the cafe (7 eu for meal and 2 beers!)

I am now sticking to cafe food and will splurge at Adaga...i have to hide this bill from my husband! In usd this is a killer! And, without great conversation too boot.

Good restaurants in Cascais (just back from there):

O Pescador and Beira Mar were the best in my view, both are on a little street you can't miss with a good few restaurants just off the main shopping street. They are a little pricey but in O Pescador the shellfish paella for 2 is to die for. In Beira Mar we had chateaubriand, clams and monkfish, all excellent.

Also liked Casa Velha for standard Portuguese fare.

For a change we had an excellent Thai meal in Ankor, on a street slightly above the main town called (I think) Bella Vista - this restaurant used to be Bankgok, which is featured in many of the guide books. The meal was fantastic but it was a Monday night and the restaurant was deserted.

Jendelia is missing in action. I just hope she managed to hide the bill from her husband

No reasons to remain sober:
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/09/19/di...;ex=1190433600

Alas. Those wines are impossible to find where I live.
I will have to try to get some from the area on my next NY trip.

Or on your next trip to Portugal.

Nikki

Sounds like a plan.

Two notes:
- the clock in the archway of Rua Augusta is working again, after some tens of years out of service.
- Lobo and Loba went last Sunday to watch the new movie FADOS from Spanish director Carlos Saura ( http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1056422/ )
It's written in the plural form (fados) instead of singular (fado), because apart from the traditional fado it presents a lot of influences and fusion forms, from Brazil, Mexico, Cape Verde Islands, Spain and others. Mexican singer Lila Downs reveals herself as an excellent fado singer.
The negative note is the presence of dancers in every songs, and as you know, dance is absent in traditional forms of fado. It shocked my Portuguese sensibility, but I understand that an empty or standing still screen is bad business in any movie.
This is not a movie "strictu sense", with an argument and so on, but more a documentary. In Portugal the movie is released without any explanatory notes, because it's self-explanatory, when Chico Buarque or Caetano Veloso sing, we know that they are Brazilian top singers and we understand the reason why they are there, but the success in the international market depends very much on the explanatory notes that I think should be added.
The fodorites who attended the Lisbon Dining Club event in Pateo da Memoria on 27th May 2006 may recognize Ricardo Ribeiro ( http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc24.jpg ) who played there for us and is starring in the film, in one of the last scenes, just before Mariza's "grand finale"

Lobo
We (3 couples)will also be in Lisbon from 11/21-25 before leaving Sunday morning to drive to the Algarve for a week. Any chance of getting together during that time - it's been many years since I travelled to Portugal with my late mother and am anxious to return to my "roots" and share my Portuguese heritage with my DH and friends. We will be staying at the Hotel Avenida Palace.
Flygirl will you be there at the same time?

24th sounds good to me. I have to check with Loba but I think we are available for a late light meal and a few drinks. Pls contact me directly [email protected]

oh bummer, I'd love to join you but I leave Nov 24 for home.

have a great time!

Emily Marie,

I arrive in Lisbon (from Coimbra) on November 20, and fly home Saturday the 24th.

If the LDC timing works out, great, I'd love to meet you all.