Matt, I hope your daughter to recover soon. Nancy's other side is Mayer(sp?).
Ladylin, we surelly missed you, I hope you are doing better. Please reserve some time at least to have a coffee with us and see some pictures. .
The last but not the least, I wish to witness how brave LDC members are! Everybody tried the octopus and the pig's ear salad!

PÁTIO DA MEMÓRIA and the Lisbon Dining Club

Last night, May 27th 2006 saw 12 people attending the latest Lisbon Dining Club: Lobo and his wife Gertrude, Jen and Gregg - (Bailey), Nancy and Mayer (sp?), Cindy and Jason, Vítor and Sofia and of course Lizzy and I. Unfortunately as documented on the thread Lyn and her partner were unable to make it and we hope that she is able to meet us for at least a coffee before heading back home. With such a large group there had been prolonged preparations, emails bounced between us and telephone calls made, photos exchanged and despite the fact that only four of us knew each other we managed to all meet up in Belém at the arranged time. In fact I barely needed to wear my Yankees cap once Jen and Greg had joined us.

Pátio da Memórias can be found at Calçada da Memória, 57-A, 1300 � 394 Lisbon. (Tel 21 364 44 51). It is approximately five minutes walk from the meeting place and on a very warm Lisbon evening our group strolled up the hill all the time getting to know each other.

The first stop was to photograph a very nicely presented house en route:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc1.jpg

Which displayed very nice traditional blue tiled panels. Halfway up the hill is �Igreja da Memória� which was a fine location to take a group photograph.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc2.jpg

From left to right: Gertrude and João (lobo Mau), Jason and Cindy, Mayer and Nancy, Greg and Jen (Bailey), Lizzy and Sofia and Vítor. This church is the burial place of Marques de Pombal who was responsible for the modern appearance of downtown Lisbon following the great quake in 1755. (Lobo can give you a better description than I.)

From there it was just a couple of minutes more and we arrived at about 7.30pm and sat down:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc3.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc4.jpg

(Mayer, Jason and Cindy)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc5.jpg

(Lizzy and Nancy)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc7.jpg

(Jen and Greg)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc8.jpg

(João and Gertrude)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...gland/ldc9.jpg

(Vítor and Sofia)

Of course once the Sangria was brought to the table the party atmosphere begun:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc10.jpg

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc11.jpg

Starters consisted of octopus salad, pigs ear salad, tuna pate, olives and the usual suspects of bread cheese and butter etc. A nice extra was small chouriço sausages braized over aguardente. Everyone tucked in and no one was afraid to try the dishes. I toasted João for his successful organisation:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc15.jpg

The first main course was Açorda da Gambas � bread stew with prawns:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc12.jpg

A traditional dish from the Alentejo originally made with stale bread, it was considered as a poor man�s dish using ingredients easily to hand. So it is made with bread, garlic, coriander, and prawns cooked in boiling water. 2 raw eggs are added and once at the table, the waiter, (or manager, Sr Jaime in this instance) will mix it all together giving it a thick almost glutinous consistency: it has strong flavours from the garlic and coriander.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc14.jpg

(Mayer looks on with worried look on his face, perhaps having read about my food poisoning in Porto.)

The second main course was turkey breasts in a cream and butter sauce with sliced mushrooms, served with chips (fries) and white rice:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc16.jpg

And of course all the time was more red wine Sangria being brought to the table keeping everybody happy and talking:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc17.jpg

I was sat opposite Jen and Gregg and they certainly appeared to be enjoying the evening:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc18.jpg

In fact conversation did not stop and got louder the more was drunk and bearing in mind we were all virtually strangers at the start by mid way it was like we had known each other for ages. Obviously that is the �Fodors� effect.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc19.jpg

Deserts were chosen individually and included such delights as Pineapple Mousse, Sweet Rice Pudding, Biscuit cake, Chocolate cake etc. I�d lost count of the number of jars of Sangria we had consumed by this point but it was a few and I heard many positive comments on how good it was. Our table was in front of the main performance area situated in front of the fake doorway: the whole interior imitates an old Lisbon pátio from Alafama, hence the feeling that you are sitting outside:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc20.jpg

The rules of Fado dictate that the audience is quiet, and we sat listening to �Portuguese Blues� � A fado trio consists of the guitarra:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc23.jpg

Which hás a very metallic sound owing to the plectrums on the player�s fingers � in this instance José Manuel Castro. The acoustic guitar (viola) was played by Alex Ricardo:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc24.jpg

And whilst four different singers took the �stage� the main fadista was Sofia Gloria:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...land/ldc22.jpg

The biggest cheer of the evening came at the rendition of Cheira Bem, Cheira Lisboa (Smells good, smells like Lisbon), which stirs the passion in any Lisbon resident. It seemed the whole dining room was singing along, including our guests! And all the time in the background was more of that Sangria being drunk, and Sr Jaime left two bottles of Port at the table which were soon emptied. And I could have listened all night to the Fado which is best heard in small intimate places like this as opposed to concert halls. But the evening had to end at some time and with both Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer flying back home the next day, after coffees we settled the bill which in total came to 330 euros, 27.50 per person. (Is that right Lobo?) which included everything, drinks, Port, tips and all. Foregoing the offer of karoake we left as a group sometime around midnight and strolled down to Belém proper where we each departed in different directions. Goodbyes were said and hugs and kisses given, contacts exchanged and it was farewell to all our guests and new friends. For some it was the start of their holidays and for some the end: whichever it was I think we all had a good time and received good value for money. At a Fado house in Bairo Alto you would maybe have heard better fado, eaten better food but will have paid a lot lot more, and the atmosphere would have been more serious than was here � it was a perfect place to host a group keen to talk as we were.

I didn�t take as many photos as usual, there was so much conversation going round the table that I kept forgetting and my note taking was not as detailed so I�ll hope you�ll excuse me that fact but I�ll add a few more comments tomorrow morning. But to wrap up this post I hope that Cindy and Jason and Nancy and Mayer arrived home safely and want to wish Jen and Greg a good holiday as they continue their grand tour of Portugal.

Okay Lobo, so what have I missed?

Matt

Matt, your report is perfect as usual. The bill was 320 euros, but I decided to round it up to 330 euros, making it 27.5 euros per person.
I felt very happy with Meyer's comment stating that this event was the best spent 27.5 euros of his life. This is the reason why LDC exists for.
Another of the goals of LDC is to find places to eat by less than 20 euros, bur considering that the price included the entertainment, it's difficult to find better value for money.
IMHO Adega das Gravatas has a better food, but Patio da Memória has a more intimate environment for groups like yesterday.
"Quem parte leva saudades, quem fica saudades tem".

The report was wonderful and the food looked really good.

WOW to another successful dinner and new friends.

fantastic!

So to continue briefly where I left off last night...

Pátio da Memórias is a hard one to call: it's far enough off the beaten track to be un-touristy, (esp with it's small subtle entrance) and yet with the fado performances the manager says that tourists do come in - in fact a group of Japanese visited recently and joined in the fado. Other than us it was just locals and so one doesn't feel like eating downtown.

As part of the set group menu the starters in addition to the bread etc comprised of three different dishes, the pigs ear salad, octopus salad and chouriço. The main meals were large, (3 servings of each) and sadly much was left over. (As João said, next time we'll take tupperware containers...)

The service was good with the manager Jaime dealing with us personally. And the fado was enjoyable and sung with a passion, especially when everyone joined in. And for a scratch trio, (the viola player was drafted in at the last minute), they were tight. (Is that a musicla term?)

To be honest I have eaten better food, (see the review of Adega das Gravatas), but in terms of our group the location was perfect. The sangria and bottles of water were endless, and 2 bottles of port were left with us to finish.

So to tally up (out of ten):

Surroundings - 8
Ambience - 8
Company - 10
Drinks � 8
Starter - 8
Main � 7.5
Dessert - 7.5
Service - 9

(Just my opinion, please feel free any of you who were present to add your own summations.)

I think that with the fado this restaurant is perfect for a group such as ours - if alone or with just one couple I'd perhaps choose somewhere else, especially if the guests are Portuguese. But for a flavour of Lisbon's musical tradition this was just right. Our guests can now tick off a nice meal and a fado performance.

So now we better start preparing for Fado in the castle and Barb on Friday night...

Matt

Matt, you said yesterday that "four different singers took the stage". I counted 5:
Jose Manuel Castro, Alex Ricardo, Sofia Gloria, our host mr Jaime and the not so young gentleman by the end (I can't remember the name - too much sangria by that time).

A agree with your marks, but I'd add another Item:

beauty around the table - 10 (out of ten)

For this last item, I didn't take you and I in consideration ;-)

<i>&quot;For this last item, I didn't take you and I in consideration ;-)&quot;</i>
That's why I rarely appear in the photographs ;-)

In fact, I didn't take Vitor, Gregg and Meyer in consideration either ;-)

Sorry Jason, I forgot you in my last message.
Matt, I love your picture of Sofia Gloria with guitarra and viola players in background. She looks so much powerful!!! I think you captured the essence of fado in just one photo.

THE PORTO REPORT part II.

I�d had lunch before the train left in a small restaurant close to St� Apol&oacute;nia � there are plenty of places to eat if arriving early just across the road. So I had no need for the restaurant car, however I was provided a coffee by the catering staff which I appreciated.

Most of the rail network in the country is broad gauge, ie wider than those used in other countries thus making the possibility of a trans Europe Express beginning in Lisbon remote. However there is a project for the TGV route to be extended from Spain to Portugal in the coming years allowing faster more efficient travelling between the countries. Imagine catching a train at Waterloo, diving down under the channel, lunch in Paris and then on to Spain and Portugal.

After Coimbra � B, (perfect for a day trip to this beautiful city) the next stop is at Aveiro. Although a reconstructed station, the original building has been restored and is well worth photographing - you will see it from the left hand side of the train.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/13.jpg

Seen as we slow down to stop, and another view showing some of the tile work. (Not a great shot admittedly).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/14.jpg

From Aveiro one can take a small narrow gauge line which winds through the countryside to Sernado do Vouga and it can be seen here branching sharply away to the right.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/15.jpg

From Sernado do Vouga you can continue on the same narrow gauge line up to Espinho which is on the main Lisbon - Porto line. Further photographs of this interesting route can be seen at Vitor's website:

http://victortrains.fotopic.net/c599303.html

The Alfa Pendular is a regular service and here the southbound train passes us at speed:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/16.jpg

As one gets closer to Porto the line is very close to the Atlantic Coast, which can be seen from the left hand side of the train, (although from my position in the cab I had an extended vision all round).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/17.jpg

An interesting detail which can only be seen from the driver�s position is that the rear mirrors during the journey fold in automatically to increase the streamlining, and when stopping so they fold out again to provide a view down the platforms.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/18.jpg

After stopping at Vila Nova de Gaia on the south of the Douro river you cross the bridge to the north side:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/19.jpg

From the left of the bridge can be seen the old rail bridge reportedly designed by Eiffel which h&aacute;s been unused for many years being unsafe for passage.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/20.jpg

Most of the rail network is electrified and thus when entering a large station overhead is a confusion of wires:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/21.jpg

And after an enjoyable journey lasting 3 � hours so we reached my destination of Porto Campanha where I would change trains for R&eacute;gua.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/22.jpg

My hosts on the ALFA PENDULAR were most gracious and I offer them my sincere gratitude - you know who you are, thankyou. It is not something that most travellers will experience and I was very lucky to be invited up front.

PART THREE to follow.

To all of the LDC members,

I AM soooo bummed that we missed what sounds like a fantastic night.....

We just got in a couple of hours ago and after going through 300 emails I've been reading all the posts over the past 11 days.

Lobo, Thanks for the invite for coffee I did not see the post until a few minutes ago. I did not get back online since I did not have my own computer with me--just used the hotel internet to get the message to you.
Sadly, your coffee did not sit too well with me either all week. LOL

Aside from food, we had a wonderful time. I give Portugal a 9.0 out of 10 with the warmest, nicest people I have ever encountered on a vacation, but I expected no less after coming to this board, and being helped by Lobo and Matt and everybody else. I will write a trip report tomorrow

Has it cooled off any?

Lyn

We missed you, but it's good to know you survived
Now you have a good pretexto to come next year to join LDC May2007

For painting lovers: Collection Rau is in Lisbon from 18th May to 17th Septembre (Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga)

It's a exceptional collection gathering 95 master pieces of European painting history. It displays works of Fra Angelico, Bernardino Luini, Ant&oacute;nio Solario, Guido Renni, Canaletto, Tiepolo, Porbus, Van Goyen, Van Ruysdael, Gerard Dou, Siberechts, Cranach, Philippe de Champaigne, Largilli&egrave;re, Boucher, Latour, Greuze, Fragonard, Robert, Vig&eacute;e-Le Brun, El Greco, Ribera, Reynolds, Gainsborough, Corot, Courbet, C&eacute;zanne, Manet, Degas, Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Sisley, Liebermann, Signac, Lautrec, Redon, Bonnard, Vuillard, Vlaminck, Dufy, Derain, Macke and Morandi.

http://www.mnarteantiga-ipmuseus.pt/

Post #400 is nigh - I might just sneak it with part III of the Porto report...

Actually Lobo that is an exhibition we'll be visiting. We went to see the Frida Khalo exhibition at CCB which was good, though as someone else said here somewhat limited.

Lyn, glad you got home okay - perhaps now we can compare sickness levels ;-)

Matt

So here is the first installment of our trip report 5/20 - 5/29

5/19 - Our overnight flight from Newark was uneventful. Having secured bulkhead seats that opened up when I was printing our boarding passes was great-- the extra leg room almost felt like business class ( I guess, I never actually flew business or first class).
Flight actually got in a bit early. We went directly to Budget -- Sher, I should have listened to you and taken the shuttle!
We found out that our rental at E321 (9 days) would leave us liable for $17,489 should we have an accident. We were also told that this amount would be held against my credit card until we returned the car ( guraenteed that is way above my max). When I mentioned that my CC would give us coverage, the retall agent said it made no differnce. She offered us &quot;full coverage&quot; with no deductible for E580 to which I decided to go next door to Hertz. The Budget rental price reduced quickly enough to E407 for 9 days for the same full coverage with no cost ( except tires??.)
We decided this was doable and less hassle than worrying about Amex coverage so we accepted. Can't help feeling we were a bit taken. Liked the car though. It was a Ford Focus 5 door manual with great gas mileage.
One thing though, the agent said if I had booked the car through Budget Portugal rather than Budget International it would have been cheaper. I don't know if this is true--I will research and report back.
So that was the car.
Our first stop was Sintra-- the Penha Longa hotel. We got lost about 4 times, but once we arrived, the hotel was great. There are not enough alcolaides to say about this place. Not only are the grounds beautiful, the room and view of the golf course terrific, the best thing was the staff. Eveyone remembered our names, where we went, what we saw and inquired if we enjoyed the experience. The hotel is a bit remote, so you do need a car to get around and I would say that it is halfway between Cascais and Sintra rather than Sintra proper. A last comment about the hotel, my husband loved playing golf here and I very much enjoyed the spa.
While in Sintra, we visited the Palciao Nacional de Pena, the Palacio Nacional de Sintra, Castelo Dos Mouros and Quinta Da Regaliera. Of these my favorite was Quinta Da Regaliera. The tunnels were quite something. as were the gardens and of course the Well. We spent an enjoyable hour tasting port right in the center of town at Bar Do Binho and bought a few bottles including a pricy 1977, but I'm told it can last up to 6 months opened ( if we don't drink it up too fast)LOL.
Sunday night we ate at the Palacio de Seteais at the recommendation of friends. I was not overly fond of this restaurant. I thought the service was a bit offhand to command the prices on the menu. The fact that the restuarant is in the basement ( lower level they call it) also did not appeal to me. But the food was good and I enjoyed seeing what I could of the lovely main floor.
On Monday night we drove to Guincho for dinner at the recommendation of two professional soccer players my DH played golf with. I don't remember the exact name of the restuarant, but it was right on the rocks. We had a freshly caught fish ( we picked it out) made baked in salt. Absolutely delicious!
Part two Evora--stay tuned

And here I am sneaking in with post 400 - thankyou Lyn for part 1 of your report, some excellent information for those following in your footsteps: I look foward to seeing the photos. BTW who were the football players - were they Portuguese?

Matt

Matt, Lobo et al ...

My wife Susan and I will arrive in Lisbon on Sept 19 and depart for other parts of Portugal on Sept 22.
We would love to join a LDC outing during that time if one is scheduled. I realize these are weeknights, but it's when we'll be in Lisbon and I can't imagine a better way to be introduced to 'true' Portugese food !

We've thoroughly enjoyed reading of your culinary adventures and incredible helpfulness and generosity in both of the 'Things to do in Lisbon' threads.

We are also very interested in hearing <b><u>real</u></b> Fado. From the sounds of it, we should have been there last weekend !

Thanks !

David

PORTO REPORT Part III (Long)

In a couple of years time the whole line from Lisbon to Porto will have been renewed and therefore travel between the two cities will take in the region of 2 � hours. Now it takes over 3 hours: once north of Ovar station maximum speed restrictions of 160 Kph are in force until arrival at Campanha. Disembarking the ALFA PENDULAR I dropped down into the tunnel beneath the lines and came up on the main platform where I checked on which line I would meet the Linha do Douro train. Having time I left the station and crossed the road to have a coffee and cake in one of the many coffee shops locally.

My train was to leave from Platform 12. Navigating the station is easy � and thus I waited in shadow beneath the canopies listening to the ticking clock, harsh sounding voices over the Tannoys and general conversations from others waiting for the train. I was in the north of Portugal and it was only the 2nd time I�d been to Porto. There was pimba music from someone�s radio, old people with caps eating a picnic on a platform bench cutting chunks of cheese and thick slices of bread with an old knife. An honest meal which made me feel hungry.

After a short while my train rolled in and all passengers disembarked: this is the terminal. My transport to be completely removed from the ALFA PENDULAR.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/23.jpg

After introductions with the driver once more was I invited to sit alongside him in the cab: my view ahead whilst we awaited the off in the station:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/24.jpg

In complete contrast to the modern train, the manual controls of the UTD 600 looked almost like a museum exhibit � like comparing vinyl records to CD�(or dare I say it 35mm film to digital)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/25.jpg

Bells ring, horns sound and the diesel engines rumble into life, there is a clicking noise as the speedometer winds up leaving the confines of Campanha station. Quickly out of Porto we are up to 120 Kph, the old train rattles and lurches, there is much more a sense of speed and with its flat fronted cab you get the impression of being right on the track itself. Initally the route is through the Porto suburbs, industrial areas and private sidings run off the main line. At various stations the train stops and the driver talks to station staff � here the train really is a part of the community unlike the ALFA PENDULAR which blasts through most stations with barely a sound from the horn. After Penefial, (where the old station building has been preserved) the scenery becomes greener as we leave the city behind us, small vineyards from private houses, the horizon begins to get more mountainous.

We enter Ca&iacute;de station at 6.15 pm and this is the outpost of the electrified lines.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/26.jpg

Until this point the train control is made with coloured light signals � after Ca&iacute;de it reverts to local control � telephone communication between stations, the go ahead given by the station master: old ways. Traditional ways.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/27.jpg

A local train from R&eacute;gua is late, we sit waiting for it until we can go: there is a sense of anticipation as the unit throbs at the platform � from now on the line is single and passing places exist only at stations. The Douro line is not electrified � and so the older diesel units still run here: there has been talk of electrification meaning faster journey times and less pollution � 1 km equals 1 litre of fuel. There are four engines in this unit � four litres per km. But also h&aacute;s there been talk of closing the line completely � a disaster for the local community and in terms of tourism: during the summer the train is packed. From Ca&iacute;de station we run onto the single line and immediately through a tunnel:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/28.jpg

And it is then the Douro line really begins. From the modernity until Ca&iacute;de it is like returning to the past:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/29.jpg

and slowly does the horizon open out and far in the distance are the mottled hillsides of the Douro valley.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/30.jpg

Winding through the countryside, the protest of wheels against the track, I open the window, it is hot in the cab. Clickety clack clickety clack go the wheels. Small rural stations where the stationmaster waves a flag for us to proceed. Old houses flash past and we sound the horn at unmanned crossings.

Livra&ccedil;&atilde;o sees the first of the narrow guage lines which creeps off into the countryside:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/31.jpg

Here we are approaching. The line once went as far as Arco de Baulhe but now concludes at Amarante: there h&aacute;s been talk of a group reopening the line but it is unlikely to happen. Here is the little train awaiting the off at the platform next to ours:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/32.jpg

The narrow gauge of the track can be easily seen here and it looks like a toy train � it�s lines curve off left from the station:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/33.jpg

Whilst we bear right and follow the valley:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/34.jpg

All the while am I taking notes and enjoying the scenery immensely.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/35.jpg

It wasn�t the sunniest of days and here was overcast as we really enter the mountainous Douro valley region:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/36.jpg

Once out of Livra&ccedil;&atilde;o does the spectacular scenery begin and from this point only gets better:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/37.jpg

There is just time at station stops to take a photo of the Douro river before starting off again.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/38.jpg

Should you wish you could get off along the line and region a later train but I advise to sit on the right hand side of the train, pull the window down and snap away. Once again my view was somewhat priveledged:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/39.jpg

As we rode alongside the river:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/40.jpg

Across small viaducts, round sharp curves and delving between old tradional houses, green embankments and steep stone mountain sides on the left. The railway closely follows the Douro and looking back as the river snakes through the valley so does the line. Station chiefs give permission to proceed, blows his whistle and away we go once again:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/42.jpg

The vast vineyards of the Port houses at this time of year are vivid green and my driver points out one of the secrets of the Douro the shrine to �Santa Nossa Senhora Bom Viagem� on a rock cliff across the river � offering godspeed to the boats which once took the barrels down the river to the houses at Vila Nova de Gaia. Look very closely � you�ll see a small white patch: my camera isn�t good enough to capture it.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/43.jpg

Unless you have someone to point this out you�ll never see it (so perhaps take me next time?;-)) Our journey has been marked with wonderful views and tunnels cut from the mountainsides, views to Port wine vineyards and small villages nestled into the valley sides, the blue Douro running alongside us but unfortunately my journey comes to an end at R&eacute;gua, next time I�ll go further. I thank my host and wave the train off:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/44.jpg

At R&eacute;gua on can take another narrow gauge line up to Villa Real, (The Corgo Line) which I was due to do the next day on a historic train but this afternoon the usual diesel motor units were bubbling away at the platform:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/45.jpg

For further views of the line please look again at Vitors site:

http://victortrains.fotopic.net/c780839.html

Across the platforms is an example of the steam locomotives which used to work the Corgo line:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/46.jpg

It is easy to obtain permission to look it over, and upon further exploration one can view other locomotives rusting away into oblivion at the old locomotive department:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/49.jpg

C.P are willing to sell these engines but the purchase would only be the first stage: they would require lengthy and possibly expensive restoration but what a sight they would make gleaming, steaming in the afternoon � one can only dream�

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/50.jpg

In fact R&eacute;gua still maintains all the infrastrcutures for steam train services:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/51.jpg

and

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/47.jpg

for it is from this station that the preserved steam train runs the Douro line during summer months and the steam locomotive (obviously restored) awaits its call at the other end of the station.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...0trains/48.jpg

And here does the story close for as you know unfortunately I became ill overnight and was unable to take the Corgo train the next day. However R&eacute;gua itself is a wonderful town on the banks of the Douro, vineyards on the other side are watched over by a huge Sandeman statue who protects his vines like some modern Bacchus. Narrow cobbled roads and small shops, pretty houses � I�d have liked the time to explore it more but the next morning I was still ill and I wonder now how I made it safely back to Lisbon.

I will be returning to this region in July to explore it further and later for a week specifically to ride these old scenic lines � if the government does eventually close them down it will be a great loss both to the community and tourists who flock to this &aacute;rea in summer. For those of you coming over for an extended holiday I thoroughly recommend taking the Douro line from Porto Campanha and should you wish a guide and travelling companion then let me know; it would be a pleasure to return and despite being a resident of the Lisbon &aacute;rea a little part of my heart belongs to the Douro Valley.

Matt

Beautiful!!! We'll try to join you in July... depending on the schedule. As you know I'm a southern boy, but eager to discover the beauty of Douro Valley.