excited_confused

Despite everything, there was never a single moment when I felt - why did we do this. All our plans, choices of places to visit etc were all really good, things that happened just ... happened! DD & I kept saying that things could have been worse, what if that lady at the cafe had not been so helpful, what if the ATM card had never worked, etc. etc.

Moreover, I would find myself sitting somewhere looking around & be totally overcome by what I can only describe as a WOW feeling, it was like OMG we are actually here sipping cappuccino in Rome or sitting at the Trevi Fountain or speeding through the Grand Canal in a motorboat! There were countless times that happened & it would make me really happy everytime.

irishface

Great philosophy, excited! Besides, what makes the best stories after the fact?!

Please, keep sharing. I'm enjoying this report. thanks!

excited_confused

That night we went back to our friends' hotel since we had asked for our bags to be delivered there. Of course, they had not yet arrived. DS passed out on the sofa in the lobby while we discussed plans for the next day. We decided that we would go find an internet cafe to reprint our confirmation for the Vatican while our friends would buy the Roma Pass. Woke up DS & dragged him back to the apt, it was probably past midnight.

excited_confused

Rome – Day 2, Saturday - Another disastrous day that ended well!
F- Friend FS1 - 25 FS2- 21
I was up early so DS & I went to pick up our bags from the hotel- they had finally arrived. We all got dressed & left in hunt of an internet café to print our confirmation. Figured we could have breakfast after that since we did not have to meet until 11.45. We had reservations for the Vatican at 1pm. However we could not find an internet café that was open. Finally found on Largo Argentina but did not have time for breakfast after that – just a quick cup of cappuccino and croissants. All the croissants in Italy were sweet, could not quite get used to that.

We had bought the Vatican admission for the adults online after I had confirmed by email that we could buy the student discount tickets when we picked up ours without standing in line. We left just before 12, waited 15 minutes for the bus & decided to walk since the sign still said 23 minutes for the bus & it had not changed since we got there. At that point we realized we had not brought the GPS with us. Since we were so close to the apt, we asked DS & FS2 to go bring it while we walked slowly, figuring they would catch up.

I guess I did not take into account that DS had come to the apt from the other side when he arrived & though we had gone to the hotel to get our bags that morning, he missed the turn to the apt & of course, got lost! When we called them 10 minutes later, they had still not found the apt & now didn’t know their way back either! Anyway, they figured it out but once in the apt, they could not find the GPS so were now on the way back. By now we had reached the bridge where we had to cross over the Tiber. Our friends were stressing because they thought their son was lost forever, I was stressing because I was afraid we would not be allowed to use the admission tickets if we arrived much after 1pm. Our first major conflict - they wanted to wait for the boys while I wanted to proceed & was pretty sure they could find the way. Finally they came up with the idea that the other 2 kids should wait at the bridge while we went ahead. The boys happened to call at that minute so we told them that was the plan. However, I subsequently argued (my big, fat mistake as it turned out!) that if the adults went in, there was no way the kids could get in without waiting in line so it would be better if we all went & then the 2 kids with us could come out with our reservation confirmation & use that to get in once the other 2 got there. It was a lot of stress & confusion but finally everyone walked over the bridge. A few minutes later, we called the boys to let them know the new plan but now we could not get through. We kept trying, we were almost at St Peter’s & still no contact. DD realized that that the phone was not ringing at all & concluded that the phone must be dead! Now we really did not know what to do since they would keep walking, looking for their siblings.

We realized that the entrance to the Vatican was still a long way since you had to go around the huge walled building to get there. At this point, my friends decided to wait with the kids & while DH & myself went to seeif we could exchange the tickets for another time or day since it was 1pm already. After an endless walk, we reached the entrance & saw only 10-12 people in line! The guards waved us through the other door without even looking at our confirmation. At the information window, we were told that we could use the tickets anytime that day, just not the next day. I was really upset that I had stressed so much for no reason. In the meanwhile we heard from DD saying that the boys had called, (the phone had not died, they had no service for a while. They had gone way ahead since they were expecting to see their siblings at the bridge they had to cross & were now retracing their steps. Apparently they had to buy a map for 4 euros to find out where they were since the 2 people they asked were not very pleasant & they did not want to risk asking again!

We went into a café right across the Vatican since we knew we would be waiting for a while. DH had a cappuccino & a small plate for pre-made microwave warmed french fries for 8 euros, total bill was 14 euros. When everyone else got there, I asked them if they wanted to eat first since I figured everyoneelse would be hungry & tired too but nobody seemed to be in the mood to sit down & enjoy a meal! DS was mad at me for changing the plan & I felt really, really bad, but how could I have ever imagined that they would not have service when we had talked to them half a dozen times in the last 30 minutes! (and spent a fortune in the process) To make matters worse, there was no line at all so it seemed like I had just been making a big fuss about nothing!

We went through the Vatican & even though it was amazing, I think we would have been more impressed in different circumstances. It was also a little bit of of sensory overload. I had downloaded the Podcast for the Sistine Chapel from Rick Steve’s website, it helped some but I found it a little slow . We exited right into St Peter’s Chuch & that was really amazing! I think everyone was really awe-struck there. I actually had to go & touch some of the folds in the cloth just to make myself believe that it was really stone!

Everyone emerged in a better frame of mind but tired & hungry. I had a couple of restaurant recommendations in the area, but we just wanted something quick so FH & DH went to a pizzeria on a side street on the left. I had messed up enough for the day so I didn’t say anything. The service was awful & the pizza was average. We had to wait about half hour to get the check after asking for it. We walked across to a fort like structure, I forget the name, FS1 decided he wanted to up but the rest of us headed home. The guys wanted to walk but I absolutely refused & jumped onto a bus that had just arrived, FW & my kids jumped in behind me. FH could not quite believe that FW got on the bus without him! The guys walked back. We arrived at the Ponte Sisto at almost the same time since we got off at the Ponte de Fiori stop on Corso Vittorio. Everyone was exhausted & we asked our friends to come over to the apt in a couple of hours.

We stopped by at a grocery store right next to the Ponte Sisto & picked up a bottle of wine & some cheese crackers etc.
We still had to solve the mystery of the missing GPS, I had just found the phone with the UK chip in the luggage that had come that morning. Find one thing, lose another, seemed to be the order of the day!

Leely2

I guess the confused part of you is just as prevalent as the excited, huh? Great report. It makes me smile--I have been in similar situations too many times to count.

Kristina

I just want to know if you ever got your folder back! I would be devastated if I lost all that hard work. I guess that's why I always email myself copies of everything (passports, confirmations, notes) so I can access it if needed from where ever. Still...good for you for keeping a good attitude!

Also, were you happy with Sleep in Italy? I just reserved an apartment in Trastevere with them and I've never used them before.

gracie04

When I read the part about your folder, I had a sinking feeling in my stomach for you.

You wrote: "Moreover, I would find myself sitting somewhere looking around & be totally overcome by what I can only describe as a WOW feeling, it was like OMG we are actually here sipping cappuccino in Rome or sitting at the Trevi Fountain or speeding through the Grand Canal in a motorboat! There were countless times that happened & it would make me really happy everytime."

I really love that feeling!

Johanna

jean253

I am a Senior & travel with a group of senior friends, I get the job of arranging everything !travel, accommodation ,the lot ( or should I say I volunteer) & feel guilty when there's a slip up. My son says "Mom you are like a juggler nobody notice's how good your performance is until you drop a ball." so when a slip up happens I say " wheres me ball?" that usually lightens the situation. We have just returned from a transatlatic cruise. plus land tour to Sorento . then onto Croatia Slovenia & Ireland 6 weeks in all . so if any of you go to any of thos places & see any dropped balls I need em back for next time!!Sorry Excited for taking over but you made me feel that I am not alone, Enjoying your report.

alipilgrim

Hi, I need to rent a large passenger van this August and 7 pax with room for luggage sounds perfect - do you remember the type of van it was? and what agency did you rent from??

Thanks!

excited_confused

But didn't my reasoning make sense? I didn't know the phones would certainly decide not to work! Or that it would be so easy to get into the Vatican!

Alipilgrim we rented from Hertz, it was the only large van they had, I will try & check what model it was.It had room for 9, 3 seats in every row. It had manual transmission, did not come with automatic. We paid 470 euros for 2 days including additional insurance to cover the deductible, I am sure the weekly rate would be much less.

Jean254, I like the juggler analogy, that is very true!

excited_confused

That night our friends came to the apt, the only time we really took advantage of the fact that we were in an apt, It was nice to just sit around a chat while having wine & cheese/crackers & fruit from the Campo de Fiori market. We lingered longer than we meant to & it was around 9.30pm by the time we left. The good news was that DS found the GPS! It was under the sofa bed in the 2nd room, it must have still been in his pocket when he collapsed into bed the night before. I had been convinced that it had slipped out of his pocket when he lay down on the couch in the hotel but luckily I was wrong!

We headed to the Piazza Navona, we had liked the liveliness of that area the night before. We watched a street painter make an amazing painting of the Colosseum sight in front of us. He did use some props but even then, his use of colors & his technique was fascinating. We loved the finished product & fortunately were able to buy it. It means a lot more since we saw how it was done. It was a pain trying to keep it flat in the bag after that on the trip since he did not have that long round box to put it in. A street vendor tricked DD into buying a friendship bracelet for 5 euros, he wanted 15. She said she was just walking past & he had it around her hand before she knew it. So beware.

We had dinner at Bar Navona where the food & the desserts were surprisingly good, FH & DH enjoyed the limoncello, I ordered it once on the trip but found it too strong. It was fun sitting outdoors & people-watching in the Piazza. I bought myself a bunch of rosed for 2 euros, couldn't resist since I knew there was no chance that DH would buy them for me!

After dinner, we decided to walk to the Trevi Fountain, also wanted to try the gelato at San Crispino (sp?) We had stopped at Blue Ice a couple of times but were not wowed by the gelato. We know it would be after midnight after we got there, hoped it would still be open. Anyway, the GPS lost service after a while so we had no idea where we were & there were not too many people on the streets at that time. We met another couple who were trying to get to the station, we tried to help each other but it was a case of the blind leading the blind! We finally came to an area where the boys remembered buying the map when they had gone past the bridge leading to the Vatican. At least now we knew where we were & followed the map after that. The GPS suddenly sprang into life as well & guided us down a maze of dark, deserted alleys. Soon we could see signs for the Trevi so we know we were on the right track. We turned a corner & suddenly in front of us was the amazing sight of this huge, beautiful, lit structure called the Trevi Fountain with hundreds of people around! It was really an unbelievable scene. Sitting on the wall, I definitely wanted to pinch myself. We took countless pictures, DD's facebook pic is now one at the Trevi Fountain holding my red roses! I could have sat there forever. The walk may have been long, the day may have started badly but what an amazing end! (The kids did found a gelato place that was open though we did not see the one we were looking for).

It was really. really late by the time we got back to the apt but i made myself go online & email the cab co. to ask about the folder, then went to bed, glad we did not have to wake up early that day.

excited_confused

Kristina, I had read a lot of good reviews about Sleep in Italy, that was the only thing that kept me from getting as jumpy as DH when the cleaning person did not show up for so long. I knew they had a good reputation & they did come through in the end. Of course, the apt not being clean took away a lot from the experience but I think that was more the exception than the rule so yes, I would say you should be fine. Just nake sure they explain how all the appliances work when you get to the apt & try them yourself. Written instructions would have been nice.

excited_confused

Sunday was to be our easy day – our reservations at the Borghese were not until 5pm so we had planned lunch at one of the recommended pizza places in Trastavere. We were going to head to the Spanish Steps after that by bus & then to the Borghese. Our friends were talking to the reception desk at their hotel to find out the bus # when they informed us that all roads were going to be closed after 2pm due to a bike race – Tour de Italy. She advised us to get to the area before 2 We headed to the bus stop, it was probably just past 1. After first going to the wrong bus stop at Campo de Fiori, we finally found the right one for Bus 216, waited there for about 30 minutes but there was no sign of the bus. We asked people around & everyone said it would come but we finally gave up & stopped a cab. My friend’s family got in & we said we would follow, either by cab or a different bus from the main Campo de Fiori bus stop. We walked to main road where a lot of people were waiting for other buses. Suddenly the whole crowd disappeared! We figured that the buses were not coming anymore so we stopped a cab who promptly said that all roads were closed & he could not get us anywhere near the Spanish Steps! 5 successive cabdrivers said the same thing despite our telling them to drop us anywhere in the area.

We finally got a cab driver who agreed to take us close to the area & dropped us off at the Piazza Pietra which we recognized from our first day! It was not a long walk but our poor friends had been waiting for probably an hour, we had tried to call them but with all the noise and people at the Spanish Steps, they did not hear the phone.

There were a lot of people there & the view from the top was great. After we came down, we realized that we were all starving but did not have time for a proper lunch. There was a McDonald’s right there so McDonalds it was!It was actually not a bad change, we were surprised one had to pay for ketchup.

The walk to the Borghese Gardens was longer than we expected & uphill. The Gardens were really nice, 2 and 4 person bikes were available for rent but we did not have time to linger. It was past 4.30 when we reached, we used our Roma passes but the line was not too long anyway. I bought the audio tour here & thought it was well worth it. The sculptures were amazing but listening to the story behind them made them far more meaningful.

We took cabs back, the kids stayed behind to rent the 4 person bicycles but there were none available so they took a little tram ride around the Garden instead & came back a little later.

We planned to go LeMani in Trastavere for dinner that night. This was our first visit to Trastavere & we were amazed at how crowded it was! Unfortunately we had not made reservations since so far, we had not had any problems with seating, but that night we did. We had kept De Spirito as back-up as it was next door but that was closed. So we walked back & stopped at L'insalata Ricca which also turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The bruschetta & the green pepper pizza were really good.The green peppers and tomatoes in Italy were real juicy & delicious.
The kids stayed out while we headed back to the apt.

On our return, DH spent almost 2 hours on the TMobil website trying to recharge our TMobil chips from UK with no success They had not been bought with our credit card & the site would not accept a non-UK credit card/address. Very frustrating, especially since there were no T Mobil stores around. I guess we were back to using our $2/minute Verizon phones.

Vttraveler

I was relieved to see that your son made it ok from the airport to Largo Argentina. I was afraid when I saw the title of the thread that his getting lost might have been one of the things that went wrong.

excited_confused

Vttraveler, thankfully that was one thing that didn't go wrong, thanks to all your help & that of other Fodorites. Although he did say that only saw the tram because it happened to be there at the time, he did not think he would have found the stop if the tram hadn't been there! Luckily even communicating with him was never a problem. Although we could not call any local cell numbers with the Verizon phones, they worked really well for calling each other, except for that one time at the Vatican!

Leely2

I had never taken a cab in Rome but on my last trip I was traveling with my aunt and mom. My mom got a bad virus but still wanted to see some sights. We just popped her into and out of cabs all the time--very effective and not nearly as tiring for her. We also used them for dinners outside the center.

Glad you liked the audioguide at the Borghese!

featherwatcher

Thank you for the trip report, I am planning a trip to Rome (for next May). I like the idea of visiting the Vatican museum in the afternoon. Sounds like a great way to avoid the lines. Going through the museum and then into St. Peter's as you did, how long did all that take you?

Thanks!

excited_confused

As I mentioned, the lines were almost non-existent in the afternoon, We got in around 2 & were done around 4.30 or 5, of course that depends on how much time you want to spend.
St Peters Basilica was open until 6.30 or 7pm if I recall correctly so it gives you plenty of time. We had not booked a tour, thankfully, since we would have lost our reservation for sure, but there were plenty of tour groups around and you could hear what the guides were saying.

featherwatcher

Thank you, your report and answers have been very helpful. I'm more excited and less confused

Lindateach

Will you be finishing your trip report? How was the driving and visiting the small towns? Waiting for the rest of the report!