The Shortest European Trip Report Ever!
Jul 2nd, 2013, 08:24 PM
#22
>>>Had been told the airport train comes in "a long way" or some have said "a ten-minute walk" from the more main part of the station. Make that about three-four minutes max.<<
The airport train doesn't come in at the satellite tracks anymore which is why you didn't have the long walk. Changed a year or so ago.
The airport train doesn't come in at the satellite tracks anymore which is why you didn't have the long walk. Changed a year or so ago.
Jul 2nd, 2013, 09:23 PM
#23
Original Poster
A year or so ago...gee I need to get over here more often so I can keep up!
And speaking of being up I just came back into the hotel from a morning walk-around. The Florentines are, of course, up and on the way to work. Visitors getting an early start to the day's sightseeing already in evidence. Vendors setting up the racks of maps and postcards, etc.
Am sitting on the terrace outside my hotel room watching the might bathing the dome of the Duomo and waiting for the breakfast room to open at 7:30. It is wonderfully quiet and makes you grateful you are able to travel.
And speaking of being up I just came back into the hotel from a morning walk-around. The Florentines are, of course, up and on the way to work. Visitors getting an early start to the day's sightseeing already in evidence. Vendors setting up the racks of maps and postcards, etc.
Am sitting on the terrace outside my hotel room watching the might bathing the dome of the Duomo and waiting for the breakfast room to open at 7:30. It is wonderfully quiet and makes you grateful you are able to travel.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 04:06 AM
#24
Original Poster
The Pitti
Having visited Florence several times over the past 30+ years for whatever reason we have never been to the Pitti Palace until today.
We set out on foot from the hotel around 9 AM and for the most part things were pretty quiet. The Ponte Vecchio however was already busy with visitors and the place continues to be one vast jewelry store.
The area in front of the imposing and rather brutal-looking Pitti facade was almost deserted and buying tickets took only a couple of minutes. I was most impressed with the 'art collection' (the paintings) and was reminded somewhat of some of the rooms at the Hermitage. The rooms themselves, especially the ceilings and plaster work, as well as the massive chandeliers, the drapes, the damask wall coverings, the tables inlaid with lapis and the like, the gold leaf, etc., are almost worth a visit in and of themselves and then there's all that incidental oil on canvas. The Madonna in all her reputed life-long adventures from the annunciation to the assumption; the Holy Family; Christ ready for the cross, on the cross, down from the cross, being annointed; the well-known saints and their tortures with Sebastian and the arrows, Andrew being prepared for his famous ordeal, Saint Agatha and the nipples and on and on.
The place is soon overwhelming and then there is the silver and porcelain collections; the carriages; the sculpture and the Boboli Gardens looking somewhat parched. If you want exercise this is the place to get it. There are LOTS of stairwells and once you trek all the way to the top of the Boboli you'll appreciate the absolutely stunning view of Florence north of the Arno and the Duomo, the old palace, the whole scene.
On the walk back to the north bank I was struck by the fact, (or is it just my lack of memory and not having paid attention???) that nobody ever seems to ask the question, "Is Florence too touristy?"
Does water flow over Niagara Falls? I gather that the presence of great art covers a multitude of supposed downsides. The city is, in places, MOBBED. At one point we ducked into a rather large building housing a bunch of different market stalls with everything from fresh meat to dried mushrooms to freshly made pasta being churned out. There were the usual bars with coffee and stronger stuff; spices and dried fruits; great fun just to roam around and observe and cooler than being out in the heat.
This afternoon or tomorrow will try to do the Davanzati. It is nice not to feel in any way compelled.
Having visited Florence several times over the past 30+ years for whatever reason we have never been to the Pitti Palace until today.
We set out on foot from the hotel around 9 AM and for the most part things were pretty quiet. The Ponte Vecchio however was already busy with visitors and the place continues to be one vast jewelry store.
The area in front of the imposing and rather brutal-looking Pitti facade was almost deserted and buying tickets took only a couple of minutes. I was most impressed with the 'art collection' (the paintings) and was reminded somewhat of some of the rooms at the Hermitage. The rooms themselves, especially the ceilings and plaster work, as well as the massive chandeliers, the drapes, the damask wall coverings, the tables inlaid with lapis and the like, the gold leaf, etc., are almost worth a visit in and of themselves and then there's all that incidental oil on canvas. The Madonna in all her reputed life-long adventures from the annunciation to the assumption; the Holy Family; Christ ready for the cross, on the cross, down from the cross, being annointed; the well-known saints and their tortures with Sebastian and the arrows, Andrew being prepared for his famous ordeal, Saint Agatha and the nipples and on and on.
The place is soon overwhelming and then there is the silver and porcelain collections; the carriages; the sculpture and the Boboli Gardens looking somewhat parched. If you want exercise this is the place to get it. There are LOTS of stairwells and once you trek all the way to the top of the Boboli you'll appreciate the absolutely stunning view of Florence north of the Arno and the Duomo, the old palace, the whole scene.
On the walk back to the north bank I was struck by the fact, (or is it just my lack of memory and not having paid attention???) that nobody ever seems to ask the question, "Is Florence too touristy?"
Does water flow over Niagara Falls? I gather that the presence of great art covers a multitude of supposed downsides. The city is, in places, MOBBED. At one point we ducked into a rather large building housing a bunch of different market stalls with everything from fresh meat to dried mushrooms to freshly made pasta being churned out. There were the usual bars with coffee and stronger stuff; spices and dried fruits; great fun just to roam around and observe and cooler than being out in the heat.
This afternoon or tomorrow will try to do the Davanzati. It is nice not to feel in any way compelled.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 06:21 AM
#25
I have to agree that Florence is mobbed but yet we enjoyed it all the same.
I bought a thin gold bracelet on the Ponte Vecchio In Sept.'01 that I have never taken off. I call it my 9/11 bracelet as our trip was during the attack on NY.
I also found a shop that had hand made papers nearby the PV. Lovely notebooks, etc. to take home for gifts.
I love your thought----
<<<It is wonderfully quiet and makes you grateful you are able to travel.>>>
Looking forward to following along as you proceed on your journey.
I bought a thin gold bracelet on the Ponte Vecchio In Sept.'01 that I have never taken off. I call it my 9/11 bracelet as our trip was during the attack on NY.
I also found a shop that had hand made papers nearby the PV. Lovely notebooks, etc. to take home for gifts.
I love your thought----
<<<It is wonderfully quiet and makes you grateful you are able to travel.>>>
Looking forward to following along as you proceed on your journey.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 06:55 AM
#26
I am following also as I have been to those places so far.
Good Luck and keep us posted.
Good Luck and keep us posted.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 07:57 AM
#28
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Thanks for the report Dukey. As I read, I see it again and it has been years. My purchase there was a leather coat that I've only worn, maybe 5 times, it is so very heavy that it is not comfortable, but I love the style!
Jul 3rd, 2013, 08:02 AM
#29
Original Poster
Thank you for the kind replies. Yes, I agree that despite the mob of visitors the town, or at least this part of it always seems somehow worth it. Last time around we drove in and out a couple of times because we were staying at a place in the countryside so we could divide our time between here and Siena and the various smaller places.
On the above-mentioned visits we learned that Florence is a lot bigger than just this area on both sides of the Arno which people seem most familiar with. The residential areas are both extensive and rather appealing, at least the ones we drove through; hilly with lots of trees and the absence of visitors on the sidewalks meant they were/are much quieter.
I wondered today just who shops in all of these higher end/more expensive stores and those of you who have been here know how many of them there are. I also wonder if you drew a bunch of concentric circles around the Duomo if prices get lower the farther from the dome you go.
People seem to be happy enough and there is the usual variety: the groups led by the raised umbrella or that little flag; young couples; plenty of people with their dogs and, of course, I have to stop and greet every one of those; a real mixture of young and old.
It is trying hard to rain so the temperature has fallen. I want to go out and hang around in some outdoor place (if the rain isn't too bad) and linger over some food and drink provided I can persuade Mr. "nose stuck in the Kindle" with some motivation.
More later/tomorrow.
On the above-mentioned visits we learned that Florence is a lot bigger than just this area on both sides of the Arno which people seem most familiar with. The residential areas are both extensive and rather appealing, at least the ones we drove through; hilly with lots of trees and the absence of visitors on the sidewalks meant they were/are much quieter.
I wondered today just who shops in all of these higher end/more expensive stores and those of you who have been here know how many of them there are. I also wonder if you drew a bunch of concentric circles around the Duomo if prices get lower the farther from the dome you go.
People seem to be happy enough and there is the usual variety: the groups led by the raised umbrella or that little flag; young couples; plenty of people with their dogs and, of course, I have to stop and greet every one of those; a real mixture of young and old.
It is trying hard to rain so the temperature has fallen. I want to go out and hang around in some outdoor place (if the rain isn't too bad) and linger over some food and drink provided I can persuade Mr. "nose stuck in the Kindle" with some motivation.
More later/tomorrow.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 08:41 AM
#30
Hi Dukey,
just found your entertaining [for us if not for you] contemporaneous TR. So glad you finaly made it to Florence.
not sure how long you have there, but ideas for things to do that I haven't seen mentioned above [and apologies if I've missed them]
1. a bus trip up to Fiesole for the lovely views over the city [probably best in the evenings as it's so hot]
2. a visit to the San Ambroglio market north of Santa Croce - the restaurant in the centre is very good if a little rustic.
3. a visit to the Bardini gardens in Oltrarno : http://www.bardinipeyron.it/ab/cont__11.phtml
keep it coming!
just found your entertaining [for us if not for you] contemporaneous TR. So glad you finaly made it to Florence.
not sure how long you have there, but ideas for things to do that I haven't seen mentioned above [and apologies if I've missed them]
1. a bus trip up to Fiesole for the lovely views over the city [probably best in the evenings as it's so hot]
2. a visit to the San Ambroglio market north of Santa Croce - the restaurant in the centre is very good if a little rustic.
3. a visit to the Bardini gardens in Oltrarno : http://www.bardinipeyron.it/ab/cont__11.phtml
keep it coming!
Jul 3rd, 2013, 12:49 PM
#31
Original Poster
Thank you very much for these additional recommendations. We are kinda doing this by ear and still thinking about how to spend the day tomorrow.
This evening we did, in fact, go hang out over food and drink at the Piazza del Republica opposite the carousel and the Savoy hotel mainly just to people watch and relax. The outdoor places near our hotel are a little less expensive and I suspect the food might be better at the local restaurants on the so-called side streets but we ended up in the piazza anyway.
I will say as to the food I enjoyed a great bowl of vegetable soup which could easily have been (and shpoould have been) a meal in and of itself. That we followed with a huge steak, the thickest thing I have ever had anywhere in Europe (none of the thin cuts we seem to remember from France (and yes I am sure you know better places to eat but stufff it, OK?)and it was coooked to perfection; side of roast potatoes. Nothing exotic but the passing show made things worthwhile.
The carousel: is there anyone who isn't charmed by them or at least charmed by their kids who are both drawn and charmed. This one has horses sporting real ostrich plume head decorations, some of which were removed by the children and replaced by either the kid, the parents, or the attendant who would rush out of the ticket booth to do so. He had a satellite TV inside and seemed glued to the screen but whenever those plume decorations got detached, BAM!, the kid was out doing damage control.
The thing itself is decorated with painted Florentine scenes; a one point a bride complete with wedding dress, groom groom and photographer hopped out of a taxi got on and rode.
Nearby a street person did a bird bath in the water fountain; people selling roses happened by and then happened again, and again. The city buses stopped for passengers. These are buses? They look more like pregnant Dodge caravans but they obviously do the job; each one that stopped was jammed but "jammed" doesn't take much. The local police cruised through several times and once stopped for a smoke break.
The bells from the nearby Duomo campanile rang the hour in that European movie kind of way. The waiter asked the two women next to us if they were mother and daughter which got a look that could kill from tghe supposed 'older sister' (who looked old enough to be the mother so I wonder what Mom actually looks like).
We spent a couple of hours and at the end got leaned on for a larger-than-is-customary tip (and the since-you-aren't-from Italy-I'll-explain-how-it-works routine) then walked back to the hotel via the Duomo bathed in what some call "moon" lighting; the pink and green facade is truly unforgettable.
Fortunately, it never did really rain, at least not yet; the hotel has a bunch of umbrellas ready by the front entrance so perhaps later tonight or tomorrow.
This evening we did, in fact, go hang out over food and drink at the Piazza del Republica opposite the carousel and the Savoy hotel mainly just to people watch and relax. The outdoor places near our hotel are a little less expensive and I suspect the food might be better at the local restaurants on the so-called side streets but we ended up in the piazza anyway.
I will say as to the food I enjoyed a great bowl of vegetable soup which could easily have been (and shpoould have been) a meal in and of itself. That we followed with a huge steak, the thickest thing I have ever had anywhere in Europe (none of the thin cuts we seem to remember from France (and yes I am sure you know better places to eat but stufff it, OK?)and it was coooked to perfection; side of roast potatoes. Nothing exotic but the passing show made things worthwhile.
The carousel: is there anyone who isn't charmed by them or at least charmed by their kids who are both drawn and charmed. This one has horses sporting real ostrich plume head decorations, some of which were removed by the children and replaced by either the kid, the parents, or the attendant who would rush out of the ticket booth to do so. He had a satellite TV inside and seemed glued to the screen but whenever those plume decorations got detached, BAM!, the kid was out doing damage control.
The thing itself is decorated with painted Florentine scenes; a one point a bride complete with wedding dress, groom groom and photographer hopped out of a taxi got on and rode.
Nearby a street person did a bird bath in the water fountain; people selling roses happened by and then happened again, and again. The city buses stopped for passengers. These are buses? They look more like pregnant Dodge caravans but they obviously do the job; each one that stopped was jammed but "jammed" doesn't take much. The local police cruised through several times and once stopped for a smoke break.
The bells from the nearby Duomo campanile rang the hour in that European movie kind of way. The waiter asked the two women next to us if they were mother and daughter which got a look that could kill from tghe supposed 'older sister' (who looked old enough to be the mother so I wonder what Mom actually looks like).
We spent a couple of hours and at the end got leaned on for a larger-than-is-customary tip (and the since-you-aren't-from Italy-I'll-explain-how-it-works routine) then walked back to the hotel via the Duomo bathed in what some call "moon" lighting; the pink and green facade is truly unforgettable.
Fortunately, it never did really rain, at least not yet; the hotel has a bunch of umbrellas ready by the front entrance so perhaps later tonight or tomorrow.
Jul 3rd, 2013, 01:18 PM
#32
We spent a couple of hours and at the end got leaned on for a larger-than-is-customary tip (and the since-you-aren't-from Italy-I'll-explain-how-it-works routine) >>
lol, Dukey, how DOES it work then?
the bistecca alla fiorentina can be huge! we had 2 between 4 of us when we were in Florence [just off the Piazza della Republica] and it was quite enough for us.
have a nice time tomorrow. where do you go after that?
lol, Dukey, how DOES it work then?
the bistecca alla fiorentina can be huge! we had 2 between 4 of us when we were in Florence [just off the Piazza della Republica] and it was quite enough for us.
have a nice time tomorrow. where do you go after that?
Jul 3rd, 2013, 09:49 PM
#33
Original Poster
How it works (and I am sure you already know) is you try not to allow the behavior to spoil the overall memory.
Obviously some of us travel more memorably than others as is clearly evidenced in this forum but one tries as honestly as they can.
To answer the question above, we continue on for several nights of opera in Verona and from there to the Bernese Oberland. That will be followed by a much-debated in our household Rhine cruise from Basel to Amsterdam. Have heard nothing further from the operator save an e-mail a couple weeks ago assuring me the voyage is a go (although in exactly what form I am waiting to see).
Our final destination (flying from Amterdam) is a couple of nights in Barcelona.
This may very well be the last trip to Europe my partner is able to make so the whole thing is somewhat bittersweet but I will endeavor not to dwell on that aspect of things as it is an ordeal yet to be faced.
Obviously some of us travel more memorably than others as is clearly evidenced in this forum but one tries as honestly as they can.
To answer the question above, we continue on for several nights of opera in Verona and from there to the Bernese Oberland. That will be followed by a much-debated in our household Rhine cruise from Basel to Amsterdam. Have heard nothing further from the operator save an e-mail a couple weeks ago assuring me the voyage is a go (although in exactly what form I am waiting to see).
Our final destination (flying from Amterdam) is a couple of nights in Barcelona.
This may very well be the last trip to Europe my partner is able to make so the whole thing is somewhat bittersweet but I will endeavor not to dwell on that aspect of things as it is an ordeal yet to be faced.
Jul 4th, 2013, 01:45 AM
#34
dukey - I'm glad you could rise above the waiter's less than optimum attitude. Sad that you've got such a good reason for doing so.
enjoy the opera and keep coming back to tell us how the trip is going. I have thought about doing one of those cruises with my mum [DH would want to kill us all by the end of Day 1] so I'll be interested to read your views.
enjoy the opera and keep coming back to tell us how the trip is going. I have thought about doing one of those cruises with my mum [DH would want to kill us all by the end of Day 1] so I'll be interested to read your views.
Jul 4th, 2013, 03:39 AM
#35
Original Poster
This is our final full day in Florence and after some indolent contemplation we decided to spend it doing something we have in the past neglected,
Our hotel is situated facing the Santa Maria Novella plaza (a location described by some on this forum as being a part of the city they would "rather not stay in") and the namesake church.
We have usually arrived in Florence, as we did this time, by rail and have breezed right by the place which given its orientation to the train station is an easy thing to do.
The interior pales somewhat in relation to that temple of interior mosaic artistry otherwise known as the Duomo but we found the time well-spent.
The plaza contains two obelisks which marked the starting lines for coach races held between the mid-16th and 19th centuries. The church interior is filled with the usual chapels, family tombs, and numerous frescoes in various states of repair.
The old church dated from sometime in the 9th century and was turned over to the Dominicans around 1221. The new church was begun in 1279. The interior has been described as having "magnificent decorations of extreme sobriety" yet Michelangelo likes the place so much that he is said to have often referred to it as "my wife."
Many of the interior frescoes were painted by Lippi in the early 16th century and they are everywhere and can easily lead to the usual sensory overload so common in this city.
As one contrast, and remembering that many of these art works contain supposed Biblical figures who all look suspiciously "Italian" as well as various Popes and other local patrons and citizens who somehow managed to be present at the Adoration of the Magi, the Presentation in the Temple, the "resucitation" of well-known dead people including Lazarus, etc., there is one more modern alcove devoted to the presentation of the rosary (by Our Lady of course) to Saint Dominic himself.
Mary is holding the Infant Jesus in her left hand. Jesus has a gold bracelet on his left ankle and someone's double strand of pearls around his neck! Perhaps these belonged to the family which gave the money for the work's completion.
The Sacristy is a kitchen makeover dream with one whole wall of built-in burled wood cabinets with ebony frames designed to hold the church's various vestments, linens, and reliquaries. The holy water font decorated by Della Robbia isn't bad either.
There is an extensive cloister with 50+ arches all decortaed with frescoes and Spanish Chapel again with frescoes depicting everything from the Passion and the Resurrection to the Church Militant and Church Triumphant.
There is much much more which is impossible to describe here but we thought our morning was well-spent and are glad we finally took the time to see this church we have overlooked for so long.
Our hotel is situated facing the Santa Maria Novella plaza (a location described by some on this forum as being a part of the city they would "rather not stay in") and the namesake church.
We have usually arrived in Florence, as we did this time, by rail and have breezed right by the place which given its orientation to the train station is an easy thing to do.
The interior pales somewhat in relation to that temple of interior mosaic artistry otherwise known as the Duomo but we found the time well-spent.
The plaza contains two obelisks which marked the starting lines for coach races held between the mid-16th and 19th centuries. The church interior is filled with the usual chapels, family tombs, and numerous frescoes in various states of repair.
The old church dated from sometime in the 9th century and was turned over to the Dominicans around 1221. The new church was begun in 1279. The interior has been described as having "magnificent decorations of extreme sobriety" yet Michelangelo likes the place so much that he is said to have often referred to it as "my wife."
Many of the interior frescoes were painted by Lippi in the early 16th century and they are everywhere and can easily lead to the usual sensory overload so common in this city.
As one contrast, and remembering that many of these art works contain supposed Biblical figures who all look suspiciously "Italian" as well as various Popes and other local patrons and citizens who somehow managed to be present at the Adoration of the Magi, the Presentation in the Temple, the "resucitation" of well-known dead people including Lazarus, etc., there is one more modern alcove devoted to the presentation of the rosary (by Our Lady of course) to Saint Dominic himself.
Mary is holding the Infant Jesus in her left hand. Jesus has a gold bracelet on his left ankle and someone's double strand of pearls around his neck! Perhaps these belonged to the family which gave the money for the work's completion.
The Sacristy is a kitchen makeover dream with one whole wall of built-in burled wood cabinets with ebony frames designed to hold the church's various vestments, linens, and reliquaries. The holy water font decorated by Della Robbia isn't bad either.
There is an extensive cloister with 50+ arches all decortaed with frescoes and Spanish Chapel again with frescoes depicting everything from the Passion and the Resurrection to the Church Militant and Church Triumphant.
There is much much more which is impossible to describe here but we thought our morning was well-spent and are glad we finally took the time to see this church we have overlooked for so long.
Jul 4th, 2013, 06:54 AM
#36
Thanks for the detailed description of Santa Maria Novella, Dukey. Like you I'd always walked past until my last [but first solo] visit to Florence when I decided I'd like to see inside. Sadly for me there was a huge queue and with only 2 days in Florence, I wasn't going to waste my time standing around in the midday sun.
my goal was some shopping nearby followed by the Gardino Bardini so SMN will have to wait til next time.
my goal was some shopping nearby followed by the Gardino Bardini so SMN will have to wait til next time.
Jul 5th, 2013, 04:39 AM
#37
Original Poster
Travel to Verona this morning. had to change once, in Bologna's new rail station and arrived in Verona on time at 12:05 PM.
I have made all the rail reservations through Italiarail.com since for whatever reason I can never seem to get the Trenitalia site to work.
Large number of people got off with us in Verona and the place has plenty of visitors many of whom are probably here for the opera performances.
We are staying in the Grand Hotel which we have used in the past. It is an easy walk from both the train station as well as the arena. Thia time around i had booked into the Acccademia which gets great reviews but at the last minute was able to get a much larger room here for about the same price.
Only waited 1/2 hour for it to be ready so was pleased with that aspect of things.
Tonight's performance is La Traviata and I assume we are in for the usual over-the-top production Verona has become known for.
I have made all the rail reservations through Italiarail.com since for whatever reason I can never seem to get the Trenitalia site to work.
Large number of people got off with us in Verona and the place has plenty of visitors many of whom are probably here for the opera performances.
We are staying in the Grand Hotel which we have used in the past. It is an easy walk from both the train station as well as the arena. Thia time around i had booked into the Acccademia which gets great reviews but at the last minute was able to get a much larger room here for about the same price.
Only waited 1/2 hour for it to be ready so was pleased with that aspect of things.
Tonight's performance is La Traviata and I assume we are in for the usual over-the-top production Verona has become known for.
Jul 5th, 2013, 10:32 AM
#38
Dukey, you paint a wonderful picture with your writing, you are making me put another destination on my visit list. I loved your Mr"nose in the Kindle" comment, all couples must travel with the same antagonism between themselves.
Thank you for taking the time to write this entertaining shortest trip report. I hope your partner is able to truly enjoy the trip.
Thank you for taking the time to write this entertaining shortest trip report. I hope your partner is able to truly enjoy the trip.
Jul 5th, 2013, 02:35 PM
#39
Tonight's performance is La Traviata and I assume we are in for the usual over-the-top production Verona has become known for.>>
i hope you sprung for the better seats with cushions etc.
looking forward to a blow by blow account!
i hope you sprung for the better seats with cushions etc.
looking forward to a blow by blow account!
Jul 6th, 2013, 01:16 AM
#40
Original Poster
OK, here is my blow by blow of "La Traviata" last night but I am not going to go into all the various details since I am a musician but in no way any sort of an expert. I know what I like and will leave it at that.
First of all, the last time we were here was in the year 2010 when we came over to do the Psssion Play as well as opera here in Verona. On that trip we literally went from the sublime (the Passion Play which we had also seen in 2000) to the grandiose and spectacular ("Carmen" here in Verona).
The arena holds literally thousands but some of the best seats are in what most people (in the US) would call the "orchestra" which are set up on the floor of the arena. I bought ours as soon as they went on sale last September and all of them were filled last night.
The surrounding seats, <B>some</B> of which are stone (you can get pillows for them from the various vendors outside) were not all filled for last night's performance.
Performances begin at 9:15 PM and around 6-7 PM the trail of people begins heading toward the arena area. Some of the restaurants next to the arena (in our experience anyway) are better than others. Most people seem to eat prior to the performance although a few places remain open, or re-open after the performace ends which in last night's case was 12:30 THIS morning.
This is the 100th anniversary year and it is all Verdi. I'd prefer Puccini but who is complaining? And besides, we will be in Barcelona for Madame Butterfly at the end of this whole thing anyway.
I am sure the opera "purists" will say this is opera for the masses, the unsophistocated, blah, blah, blah. we have a friend in Fort Lauderdale, a New York refugee who thinks the only opera worth hearing is "at the Met" and would be sniffing at the thought of this place.
But Verona has a VAST stage and it is, IMO, the spectacle as much as anything that you come here for. And yes, there was plenty of spectacle in the seats last night, too. Women (and men) "of a certain age" and sometimes with a certain hair coloring or toupee, too, dressed to the nines. You are told that "formal dress" is expected...the word "formal" is VERY loosely interpreted, believe me.
Last night it was definitely the set that was the "diva" in many ways.
De Ana, the designer of this thing did the sets and costumes as well as the lighting.
The stage which is rather severely raked (it reminded me of a sliding board) was decorated with several enormous picture frames and pieces of furniture of Violetta's home, abandoned after her death. The gloomy atmosphere, especially in Act III was highlighted by a row of funerary urns in the background which also remained during the colorful party scenes. At one point fireworks were shot out of the urns.
Dark, dark, DARK was the mood and while the acting and singing were good, I thought, I was kinda glad when this poor creature finally died.
Overall I didn't think any of the performances were that compelling (I saw La Traviata at Covent Garden a year or so ago and thought the voices were much better but then again that was in an enclosed space and using a conventional stage)..and after seeing these picture frames which literally levitate and at the end of Act I Ms. V is levitating along with one, well that's what makes this place memorable.
I found some of the singing hard to hear perhaps because we were seated in the second row and the orchestra is "right there" but overall it was great fun.
Tonight we will see "Il Trovatore" and then "Aida" on Sunday.
Meanwhile we gotta figure out something to do during the day besides that supposed balcony in town.
First of all, the last time we were here was in the year 2010 when we came over to do the Psssion Play as well as opera here in Verona. On that trip we literally went from the sublime (the Passion Play which we had also seen in 2000) to the grandiose and spectacular ("Carmen" here in Verona).
The arena holds literally thousands but some of the best seats are in what most people (in the US) would call the "orchestra" which are set up on the floor of the arena. I bought ours as soon as they went on sale last September and all of them were filled last night.
The surrounding seats, <B>some</B> of which are stone (you can get pillows for them from the various vendors outside) were not all filled for last night's performance.
Performances begin at 9:15 PM and around 6-7 PM the trail of people begins heading toward the arena area. Some of the restaurants next to the arena (in our experience anyway) are better than others. Most people seem to eat prior to the performance although a few places remain open, or re-open after the performace ends which in last night's case was 12:30 THIS morning.
This is the 100th anniversary year and it is all Verdi. I'd prefer Puccini but who is complaining? And besides, we will be in Barcelona for Madame Butterfly at the end of this whole thing anyway.
I am sure the opera "purists" will say this is opera for the masses, the unsophistocated, blah, blah, blah. we have a friend in Fort Lauderdale, a New York refugee who thinks the only opera worth hearing is "at the Met" and would be sniffing at the thought of this place.
But Verona has a VAST stage and it is, IMO, the spectacle as much as anything that you come here for. And yes, there was plenty of spectacle in the seats last night, too. Women (and men) "of a certain age" and sometimes with a certain hair coloring or toupee, too, dressed to the nines. You are told that "formal dress" is expected...the word "formal" is VERY loosely interpreted, believe me.
Last night it was definitely the set that was the "diva" in many ways.
De Ana, the designer of this thing did the sets and costumes as well as the lighting.
The stage which is rather severely raked (it reminded me of a sliding board) was decorated with several enormous picture frames and pieces of furniture of Violetta's home, abandoned after her death. The gloomy atmosphere, especially in Act III was highlighted by a row of funerary urns in the background which also remained during the colorful party scenes. At one point fireworks were shot out of the urns.
Dark, dark, DARK was the mood and while the acting and singing were good, I thought, I was kinda glad when this poor creature finally died.
Overall I didn't think any of the performances were that compelling (I saw La Traviata at Covent Garden a year or so ago and thought the voices were much better but then again that was in an enclosed space and using a conventional stage)..and after seeing these picture frames which literally levitate and at the end of Act I Ms. V is levitating along with one, well that's what makes this place memorable.
I found some of the singing hard to hear perhaps because we were seated in the second row and the orchestra is "right there" but overall it was great fun.
Tonight we will see "Il Trovatore" and then "Aida" on Sunday.
Meanwhile we gotta figure out something to do during the day besides that supposed balcony in town.
