The Engadine calls us back...again

Feb 7th, 2018, 01:39 PM
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The Engadine calls us back...again

We discovered the canton of Graubunden in eastern Switzerland a few years ago, and have made repeat winter trips to the Engadine Valley several times since. This past June, with the help of Fodorite Ingo, we expanded our horizons and visited the Vorderrhein valley in the Surselva district (meaning ‘above the forest’), choosing the town of Ilanz as a base.

Having enjoyed Ilanz so much in June, we decided a winter visit was in order, so we did just that, also incorporating a repeat visit to Scuol (our fourth), and Lenzerheide, a new find.

My trip began in Munich a week earlier, where I led a group of women on a seven day Christmas Market extravaganza. Bill met me at our Munich hotel afterwards, where we spent an extra two nights before setting off on our Swiss adventure.

Our joint itinerary:

Munich – two nights - Motel One Munich Ost

Scuol – five nights – Apartment Erni

Lenzerheide – five nights – Haus Allod 208

Ilanz – five nights – Ferienwohnung Valerstrasse 22

Munich – one night – Marriott Courtyard Munich Ost

We learned long ago that an expensive Switzerland can be made more attractive by booking apartments instead of hotels, especially in the low season. We prefer longer stays, extra space and a well equipped kitchen, so it’s win-win.

Our apartment in Scuol was 70 CHF per night (booked directly through owner, all inclusive, paid in cash upon arrival).

The apartment in Lenzerheide was 124 CHF per night +33 CHF visitor’s tax due in cash upon arrival, (booked through e-domizil, inclusive of linen, final cleaning, travel insurance and fee for using credit card, paid in full prior to arrival). Said linen was left neatly folded - inside out – in the apartment bedroom. Putting it on was a hilarious struggle; there must be a secret Swiss technique we’re not privy to.

We’d been informed that a 500 CHF cash deposit would be required upon arrival, but it was waved away at check-in; evidently we look harmless.

Timing is everything – the rate for the Lenzerheide apartment doubled a few days after we left. By design, we were there before the ski season started in earnest, which is usually the day after Christmas.

The apartment in Ilanz was 100 CHF per night (booked directly through owner, all inclusive, paid in cash upon arrival). This is where we spent Christmas. As far as I’m concerned, this apartment only lacks two things - a skillet and a Nespresso coffee maker.

We’ve stayed in the Scoul and Ilanz apartments previously, so we knew what to expect. The Lenzerheide apartment was large, well equipped and fantastically located, right in the thick of things, next to the ice skating rink, across from the bus stop and attached to a really good pizza place. Unsurprisingly, Lenzerheide was generally more expensive than Scuol and Ilanz.

A few weeks prior to leaving home, we’d purchased discounted train/bus tickets online for Munich-Scuol (59 Euro for both, four hours, three train changes) and Ilanz-Munich (59 Euro for both, ~ 35 minute train from Ilanz to Chur, ~ three hour bus ride from Chur to Munich – great option, more on that later). The rest of our transportation was purchased on the fly.

The day we left Germany, we took an earlier train than planned from Munich Ost to the Hauptbahnhof, so we cooled our heels at a busy bar in the bustling main station, sipping Weissbier and sparkling wine while people watching. A woman tried her best to strike up a conversation with me, and continued to rattle on endlessly even after I thought we’d established I couldn’t understand what she was saying. Trying to politely extricate myself delayed our train boarding, cutting it a wee bit close for my comfort.

We’d picked up train provisions at Lidl that morning, and were pleasantly surprised that our 4 Euro bottle of mystery red wasn’t half bad, especially as our main purchase criteria had been screw cap.

We’d emailed our arrival time to our apartment owner, and bless her she met us at the Scuol train station, preventing us from having to trek across a meadow and steep incline in freezing rain. She’d even left us a nice bottle of red and a box of Lindt chocolates. We were off to a good start.

Our first order of business is usually a trip to the Coop (grocery store), but because getting there involved navigating a series of impossibly steep and icy hills in the dark and rain, we thought better of it and made it an early foodless night.

To be continued...
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Feb 7th, 2018, 03:34 PM
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Scuol – Day 1

Our daily routine in Scuol goes something like this: Make a nice fattening breakfast (pancetta, rosti, eggs, walnut bread with Tartare Noix and Amandes, mandarins, and Nespresso coffee or Caotina with full fat milk (!), check bus and train schedules online, and eventually embark on the activity of the day, most often a walk or hike of some sort.

But first, we needed to stock the fridge, so we donned our Yak Trax, bundled up and worked our way down the series of dangerously slick hills to the COOP. We didn’t know it at the time, but we’d be putting on/taking off our faithful Yak Trax multiple times a day over the next two weeks. We’d also be spending an inordinate amount of time dressing and undressing – we were in for some seriously icy conditions and literally feet of snow. A bonus to food shopping first thing in the morning – the walnut bread was still warm. Lovely indeed.

The weather did not bode well for outdoor pursuits, so we opted for a nearby excursion. After our later than usual breakfast, we walked to the Scuol train station, purchased Half Fare Cards (120 CHF each, good for 30 days) and bus tickets (13.20 CHF for both, return, ½ fare) to the well preserved traditional village of Tschlin, situated on a terrace above the left bank of the Inn; one of the few places near Scuol that we’d not yet explored.

Our loose plan was to get above the clouds, explore the village, find the local Engadine Brewery (Bun Tschlin) and perhaps have a nice lunch.

We took the 10:30 bus, sharing it with a beautiful owl, perched on the arm of its handler – sadly I wasn’t quick enough with the camera.

We got off the bus at Strada i. E., Cuncalada and awaited the connecting bus to Tschlin, not realizing it wasn’t due until 11:51...oops. A school bus eventually dropped off a group of primary school kids; we joined them on the van-sized bus for the drive up to Tschlin; unbidden, they doubled up on seats in an effort to make room for us oldsters (loved that!).

As we got off the bus in Tschlin, the kids vanished, and we found ourselves walking through a deserted village. It was just us, and a couple of talkative cats that accompanied us as we wandered. Our plan had backfired – the clouds had followed us, the views were obscured, nothing in town was open, and Bun Tschlin was nowhere to be found. We stumbled upon Alpenbrauerei Girun, another brewery, but it too was closed.

As we worked our way back to the bus stop, kids began to re-appear and we realized they had come home to Tschlin for lunch. I stopped a young man of about 10 and asked if he spoke English, and received the standard Swiss response “a little”’. I asked if he knew where the brewery was, and he, in perfect English, explained that it had moved to Martina, but there was second one (the aforementioned Girun), which might be open in the evening. Nothing humbles me more than a multi-lingual kid who speaks my native tongue better than I do.

We joined the same group of kids on the 1:15 bus back to Strada i. E. Cuncalada, they once again giving up their seats, and then disappearing into what appeared to be a nearby gym, while we waited 40 minutes for our connecting bus back to Scuol.

As we gazed through the bus windows on the drive through Lower Scuol, it looked as if someone had kicked over an anthill - small kids wearing fluorescent orange vests lined the streets. How nice it would be to live in a place where littlies could take public transport and see themselves home from school without a care in the world.

We’d entered the 2-6 pm Swiss witching hour, when most restaurant kitchens are closed; we vaguely remembered Hotel Belleval offering snacks in the afternoon, so we popped in to ask. Nope, there would be no food for us.

It was snowing like crazy when we walked back to the Hotel Belleval that night for dinner – big, fat wet flakes. Our waiter, whom we recognized from last year – was busier than a one legged man in an arse-kicking contest – he was running the bar, waiting tables and looking after hotel reception. Needless to say, service was very slow, but the food was good – Bunder Gerstensuppe for me (Swiss barley soup - the best of the trip), Capuns for Bill, a glass of local grape for both – 54 CHF. We got turned around a bit on the walk back to the apartment via the pitch black, snow-covered meadow, but we eventually found our way home.

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57690561902641

To be continued...
Melnq8 is offline  
Feb 7th, 2018, 09:07 PM
  #3  
kja
 
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Oh, dear -- I can't bear reading trip reports about places that I loved and would love to revisit -- but can't do so with my current or foreseeable options, and that make me absolutely green with envy -- I'm so sorry!

Even if I don't follow along now, I hope to find reason to pull your report up again some day, and know that I will find it invaluable should I ever return to the region.

I trust you enjoyed some of the incredibly tasty meals that I remember from my time in then area!
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Feb 7th, 2018, 11:50 PM
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Hurrah, Mel, I had followed your flickr uploads and then despaired that you'd ever tell us about it ...

Scuol is definitely on my Switzerland itinerary for next year. Loved your photos of Sent, added to my 'walks from Scuol' list.

(Melting here at the moment, inching towards a cooler change on the weekend, am definitely 'over' summer.)
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Feb 8th, 2018, 07:17 AM
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kja -

Sorry you won't be following along. We did tuck into a few tasty meals. But there were a few disappointments too.

Adelaidean -

Each time I start a trip report I promise myself I'll be brief, but it never seems to happen, so it takes me forever to write them. I do love that you're already planning a return trip to Switzerland and I hope you make it to Scuol.

I don't envy your February in SA - it was the month we dreaded the most in WA. I used to console myself by repeating "autumn is coming, autumn is coming". That and sticking my head in the freezer were the only things that seemed to help. Fingers crossed for that cool change.
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Feb 8th, 2018, 07:21 AM
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Scuol – Day 2

The day promising (-9c), we rugged up, donned the Yak Trak, walked to the train station and caught the 9:41 am train to Klosters and the connecting bus to Monbiel (27 CHF each return, ½ fare), to undertake the walk to Garfiun.

https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/...iun-loipe.html

We’d taken this four mile round trip walk once before, and Bill was hankering to do it again. For me, it was a test, to see how the rest of the trip might go. I’m still struggling with a knee injury I suffered while hiking in Switzerland this past June. I doubled up the knee braces and crossed my fingers.

Monbiel to Garfiun is a good choice for a winter walk, as the valley gets a fair bit of sunshine, a source of pride for the Restaurant Alp Garfiun, which posts the exact hours of sunshine on their website.

Alp Garfiun

We couldn’t have picked a better day if we’d tried – heaps of fresh powder had fallen overnight, the track had been groomed and the skies were a vibrant blue. Klosters was in full winter swing and I was in photo heaven.

Of course, no walk in Switzerland would be complete without a nice alfresco lunch; in this case Bunder Gerstensuppe, local Pinot Noir and a shared slice of Engandiner Nusstorte with fresh cream on the sun terrace of Alp Garfuin (46 CHF), which we had almost to ourselves.

Back at Monbiel we caught the bus back to Klosters, where we walked through town, poked through the cemetery and celebrated my knee passing its test over a couple of drinks at the Al Capone Pizzeria (25 CHF). We then backtracked to Scuol via the Vereina Tunnel - the longest tunnel on the Swiss Rhaetian Railway - and our third pass through it in as many days.

That evening, we bundled up again and made our way down the treacherous series of icy steps and steep hills to La Collina for a shared spicy salami pizza and some house red – the perfect end to a perfect day (32 CHF).

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...h/25800624928/
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Feb 8th, 2018, 10:21 AM
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YAY! Haven been anxiously waiting for your trip report as usual ... Mel, please, don't be brief!!! Brilliant photos as always. The pictures of the Klosters-Garfiun day are pure torture, LOL!

Too bad Tschlin was shut down (but typical for off-season) and the weather was iffy that day. Trust me, the views from there are spectacular on a sunny day.

Glad the Bündner Gerstensuppe was still yummy

More, please!
Ingo is online now  
Feb 8th, 2018, 12:23 PM
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Those photos are a lovely distraction from a hot night, that snow looks so powdery.

(My day in Sils Maria after a snowfall was just heavenly, felt like a dream.)

I will be in Germany in September, Mel, but we are going to aim for Switzerland in June next year, with a week in Scuol and a return to Sils Maria.

Don't stop, reading this just makes me feel...happy
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Feb 8th, 2018, 01:47 PM
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Hi Ingo! Nice to see you here!

Adelaidean - I shall try to continue to make you feel happy We've yet to visit Scuol in the summer...maybe next time.
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Feb 8th, 2018, 05:56 PM
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Scuol – Day 3

The day was bleak; we walked down to the station via the meadow and caught the 921 bus to Ramosch Fermada, where we connected to a much smaller bus that whisked us up the final steep, winding ~five kilometers to the tiny village of Vnà, situated on yet another terrace above the left bank of the Inn (9 CHF each return, ½ fare).

Vnà was just as we’d left it, deserted, the air pungent with cow fumes. We walked through the tiny village and followed the track to Hof Zuort, Switzerland’s most remote historic hotel, situated in the center of a triangle comprising Switzerland, Austria and Italy. This trek has become one of our Scuol routines. Today the track was buried underneath a hazardous thick layer of ice and a frosting of snow.

https://swiss-historic-hotels.ch/en/...h_hofzuort.php

The hotel/restaurant is open 365 days a year, but looked completely abandoned as we approached; tables and chairs were stacked on the sunless terrace; there would be no alfresco lunch today. The creaky wooden building announced our arrival as we entered; a gentleman came out of the kitchen to greet us. He spoke no English, we very little German and not a single word of Romansh; nonetheless we all got along swimmingly and managed just fine.

We had the restaurant entirely to ourselves and rather enjoyed our leisurely lunch. Bill was chuffed to see Steak tartare on the menu; I played it safe with Bunder Gerstensuppe (55 CHF with beer and wine).

It began to snow in earnest as we walked back to Vnà (six miles return). We retraced our steps to Scuol, stopped at a bakery to pick up a mini Nusstorte, and then retreated to our apartment to warm it in the oven, sip coffee with Baileys and watch the snow bury us.

Later that evening we heard distant Christmas music...and the church bells went crazy. Love that sound.

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...h/25820352548/

To be continued...
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Feb 9th, 2018, 07:01 AM
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Scuol – Day 4

We woke to -7 c temps and several more inches of fresh powder; yet we couldn’t seem to get our apartment cool enough. We got off to a pokey start, but eventually made our way down to the Tourist Office to ask about a valley walk we’d found online. *A very helpful woman there suggested we walk to Sent instead, which had the potential for more views and sunshine. We’d been to Sent before – we knew getting there would probably involve some hills, but we figured we were up for the task, wonky knee notwithstanding.

*We also asked her when Bun Tschlin had relocated to Martina – two years ago!

We slowly climbed to Sent via the path that begins above the Scuol Hospital, peeling off clothing as we climbed. We walked up and up and up some more, not realizing until much later that we’d missed the actual trail, which was buried in deep snow and didn’t look like a trail at all.

It was a trudge – deep powder over a thick layer of ice, views completely obscured by fog, hill after hill...but finally, the track leveled out and we could see our destination...below us.

In Sent we ducked into the first restaurant we found, Pizzeria Da Salvatore, for a nice lunch of shared Caprese di bufala, Arrabbiata pizza and a lovely Ripasso (63.50 CHF).

A sliver of blue seen through the restaurant window lured me back outside, where I found an almost-clear sky!

Sunshine and blue skies are crack to this photographer; resistance is futile. We ditched our plan of catching a bus to Scuol, choosing to walk back instead (7.5 miles return). As we wandered back through the village we were joined by yet another friendly Swiss cat, who after spotting us from his balcony perch, ran down his elaborate cat ladder (a series of rungs affixed to a tree) and trotted alongside us.

Back on the trail, we passed the snow groomer (only in Switzerland!) and were overtaken by a woman and two littlies on a sled, one of the kids announcing their presence behind us by vocally honking.

We returned to Hotel Belleval for dinner, surprised to find that their menu had changed since the other night. They were now in full winter season mode, more customers, fully staffed. Bill was pleased to find his favorite Hotel Belleval offering, Steak tartare, back on the menu. We decided to also share an order of Pizokels - this version was overly dense and heavy, I felt as if I’d swallowed a brick – our least favorite Pizokels of the trip (55 CHF with one drink each).

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57691517980764

To be continued...

Last edited by Melnq8; Feb 9th, 2018 at 07:02 AM. Reason: typo
Melnq8 is offline  
Feb 9th, 2018, 09:25 AM
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Oh my. I'm green of envy. LOL

I must say I almost love the pictures with the low hanging clouds more than those with the blue sky. That steeple of the Sent parish church is really an eye-catcher!

No capuns so far? ;-)
Ingo is online now  
Feb 9th, 2018, 12:26 PM
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That photo set !! Just love it. Sent walk looks perfect. Adding that one to Hof Zuort to my list as well.

We had pizzocheri / pizokels in Sils Maria, probably only meal I didn't enjoy, very heavy, maybe better in winter. Capuns, though, are on my to try list.
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Feb 9th, 2018, 02:23 PM
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Ingo - I rather like those Sent photos too - I just couldn't stop clicking that day. Capuns coming up.

Adelaidean - Pizokels and Capuns vary vastly from one restaurant to another and can be wonderful or not-so-much. We had some fabulous feather light pizokels in Ilanz, and some pretty awful Capuns in St Martin. And every single bowl of Bunder Gerstensuppe (of which we consumed many) was different.
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Feb 9th, 2018, 10:24 PM
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Mel, did you buy bus tickets from driver, or did you use the app to buy on the go?
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Feb 10th, 2018, 08:10 AM
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We're old school Adelaidean, we either purchase from the ticket machine or from the driver.
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Feb 10th, 2018, 09:33 AM
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Scuol to Lenzerheide Day 5 –

Verena (apt owner) was kind enough to drop us at the train station; en route she mentioned that her husband was curious as to why we keep coming back to Scuol. We tried to explain our affinity for quiet, off-the-beaten path locales, but I’m not quite sure she understood our mindset.

We bought tickets to Lenzerheide via Chur (26.70 CHF each, ½ fare) again noticing how much easier it is to travel with luggage in Switzerland than in Germany (ramps at all the train stations, bus driver assistance with loading luggage, etc – Wunderbar!).

Two train hours later we were in the big smoke of Chur - the size of which always manages to surprise me. We followed the signs to the attached bus station, a level above the train platform, well-marked and easy. As we approached our bus, the driver asked where we were going, and then pointed to another bus, telling us it was direct, and therefore faster.

And so began our 42 minute journey to Graubünden’s largest winter sports destination, Arosa-Lenzerheide; the winding road a bit of a thrill, especially with the heavy-falling snow.

Upon arrival we dragged our luggage through the winter wonderland to our apartment; Bill easily finding it with his built-in compass (sweet!). Lenzerheide was bigger than I expected and quite busy on this Saturday; kids were ice skating in the outdoor rink next to our apartment, horse-drawn carriages clomped through the streets, people skied right into town.

We’d arranged to meet the apartment manager at 3pm; despite the worse than usual language barrier we managed to pay the visitor’s tax, arrange to meet for final inspection the day of departure and locate our apartment.

The rest of the day was spent familiarizing ourselves with Lenzerheide. We collected a walking map and got some pointers from a helpful woman at the Tourist Office, picked up groceries at Volg, and had an early dinner at Grotto Pizzeria da Elio (conveniently attached to our apartment building and correctly assuming it would be very busy on a Saturday night). The food was very good, but expensive for what it was (26.50 CHF for an individual salami pizza, which we shared – 40 CHF with drinks).

To be continued...
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Feb 10th, 2018, 11:43 AM
  #18  
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Lenzerheide – Day 6 (Third Sunday of Advent)

The church bells from across the street woke us; we watched the village come to life as we prepared breakfast; heavy equipment clearing the fresh snow in the early morning gloom, dog walkers, a lone cross country skier setting out for the day.

While spacious, this apartment lacked the amenities that we’ve come to appreciate in our Scuol and Ilanz apartments - paper towels/napkins, extra toilet paper, soap, basic food staples, etc. Not to mention the personal touches that can really enhance a stay – books, candles, plants, etc.

Haus Allod 208 was perfectly functional, but somewhat sterile. On the upside, the shower had excellent water pressure, a Nespresso coffee maker (Nespresso coffee pods are sold in the Spar grocery store for 6-7 CHF a sleeve) and we’d been left a jar of local honey. It also had a dishwasher and microwave which the other apartments didn’t.

Our plan for the day was the no plan. We wandered through the Zauberwald (Enchanted Forest - site of the Christmas light/music/food show), walked alongside the Heidsee (lake) and then walked up a section of the 206 winterwanderwege, the sun now out, the snow sparkling.

https://lenzerheide.com/de/top-events/zauberwald

We’d seen a flyer in town advertising a holiday concert that night at a church in Valbella, so we continued walking (Valbella is located between the villages of Parpan and Lenzerheide), surprised to see copper downspouts and gutters on every home we passed.

We found a church, but there was no mention of a concert, so we were unsure if it was the right one. We returned to Lenzerheide via the sports bus (free); surprised to find the village deserted, most shops and restaurants closed; what a difference a day makes.

We wandered up to La Collina, a hotel near our apartment, which, fortunately for us, was open and serving lunch. We both choose from the Tagesteller (daily dish menu). Bill went for the Rindsteak an Pfeffersauce, Butternudelin Rosenkohl mit Speck (beef steak with buttered noodles, Brussels sprouts with bacon), I went for the Vegetarische Capuns, in milch bouillon gegart mit bergkäse überbacken (vegetarian Capuns in milk bouillon cooked with mountain cheese gratin). Both meals came with a green salad and dense bread. The food and service was excellent – we cleaned our plates (63 CHF with some local grape).

A second visit to the Tourist Office followed, confirming that we’d found the right church and that we didn’t need advance tickets (donation). We had no idea what type of concert it was, but we were determined to go.

That evening we took the bus to Valbella Canols (3.60 CHF each return, ½ fare), and then walked back up to the church. Local buses operate on a reduced schedule outside of the busy ski season, so our options were quite limited, which is why we turned up at the church 45 minutes before the concert. A band member invited us in; we, along with one other insanely early person, watched the rehearsal of what turned out to be a fabulous brass band.

By 7:30 pm the church was completely full, seemingly with locals as most appeared to know one another; the roof-raising concert was brilliant, warm punch was offered at the entrance to the church afterwards.

Unfortunately, those limited bus options also meant a 35 minute wait in the cold dark after the concert. Just as we’d decided to walk back to Lenzerheide instead of waiting for the bus, a lovely woman pulled over and offered us a ride, which we happily (and thankfully) accepted.

Photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...57691669623444

To be continued...
Melnq8 is offline  
Feb 10th, 2018, 01:26 PM
  #19  
 
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You really cleaned your plates! The capuns look VERY good, mouth-watering! At least one concert for you, and then a brilliant one.

The snow makes all the difference, eh? Winter wonderland.
Ingo is online now  
Feb 10th, 2018, 02:17 PM
  #20  
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Yes, the snow does make all the difference Ingo, and there was no shortage this year.

Speaking of which, we're currently getting some much needed snow here in CO - it's been a dry snow-free year so far and we desperately need the moisture.

About that concert - we'd specifically asked about Advent concerts at the Lenzerheide Tourist Office when we arrived and were told that 'Switzerland didn't do that'. We thought that was a strange response and we knew, having learned first hand a few years back, that Switzerland does indeed 'do that'. So, when we saw the flyer, we set out to investigate for ourselves.
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