Although I question your decision not to revisit Lithuania, after all you went to India twice, I look forward to traveling along with you. Have a great trip.

Marija, I may have gone to India twice, but in 16 weeks total I only went back to one place, Mysore. (I don't count the overnight in Chennai to catch a plane.) Actually, the place I wanted to go back to on this trip was Lviv, but the logistics were hopeless, and they were bad for Vilnius, too.

I ate and drank way too much on the ferry coming over, although not as much as the young group at the next table. at least one seemed to have something to do with the UN, but you wouldn't have thought so watching them try to throw food into each others' mouths! I am now happily ensconced in the Baltic Imperial in Tallinn.

Sounds fun. I will be doing that ferry next trip I think. We did the Stockholm-Helsinki ferry this summer and surprisingly enjoyed it. There was a good seafood restaurant where the behaviour was very civilised!

thursdaysd, I'm following your TR w/great interest! I enjoyed the NYC part (except for the flight changes and rush to airport!)

<b>August 27-30 - Settling In In Helsinki</b>

Escaping Irene and traveling through airports with no free wifi meant I had nowhere to stay for my first two nights in Helsinki. I expected to get help from the T.I. in the airport, but no, they didn't handle hotels. The travel agency across the way only booked for hotels near the airport - 20 euro booking fee and I'd need a shuttle. I resigned myself to trekking into town and trying at the train station when, following the signs to the nearest loo, I came face-to-face with the Hotel Glo, actually IN the airport. I was tired, I was desperately in need of a shower, and although I made a pro forma request for the price, I ignored the fact that 119 euro was well above my budget. After all, I did mention that it was RIGHT THERE, didn't I? (And one of my credit cards worked, even though I was using it a day early.)

True, since it was in the basement, the hotel had no windows. True, my room was just big enough for a large bed and a small desk. But the water was hot and the bed comfortable. Aaaah... Clean. Horizontal. Asleep.

My cure for west-to-east jet lag is an afternoon nap, followed by dinner and bed on the local schedule. Works fine for me. This time I followed the hotel clerk's suggestion of dinner at the airport Hilton. Also pricey for me, but my salmon, with a crisp, slightly salty skin, was delicious.

I took advantage of the free wifi (airport and hotel) to verify that my reserved hostel had no room on Sunday (I'd already checked Saturday) and found an offer for Hotel Helka at 120 euro. This semed to be the cheapest en-suite room available and it was also easy walking distance from a tram stop and my future home at Hostel Academica.

After an admirable breakfast buffet at a cafe just outside the hotel, I took the Finnair bus into town (unlike the cheaper city bus, it, too, was right there when needed) and then became totally confused by the 3B/3T circulating trams - at the railway station you can board both a 3B and a 3T in each direction - four trams in all! After a detour past the harbor I got sorted out enough to reach my hotel.  A bit worn outside, a bit less worn inside, but I had a big room with a sofa and chairs, two beds and a wall of windows.

The Hostel Academica, just a couple of blocks away, seemed a bit bleak in comparison, but at less than half the price I could hardly complain. The bed was narrow, the bathroom floor got wet when I showered, and I needed my flashlight to get into bed, as the only light switch was across the room. No hairdyer, TV, or telephone, but a fridge and a stove. No free breakfast, but I bought juice, cereal and yoghurt at a supermarket across the street. I slept well, and it was close to two 3T tram stops. And I was very glad to stop switching beds for three nights.

While the T.I. had been a dead loss for finding hotels, it provided maps and sold me a transport pass, and later found me a brochure on Art Nouveau buildings, albeit in French! Along with the pages I had copied from a couple of guide books, I was set for sightseeing.

The best-laid plans etc. Still, that's what credit cards are for. Hope it wasn't raining too. Things will get better. Look forward to the sights you saw.

Just began reading this trip report. I am enjoying it. Maybe someday I will get to those Baltic countries! thanks!

Hi thursdaysd! I'll be in Riga 9/4-7...we used to live here, so we're looking forward to a quick return trip. The good news about Riga is that it is totally walkable; you don't need to worry about the location of the nearest tram. Maybe we'll pass in the narrow streets of Old Town or gazing at the Art Noveau architecture on Albertas iela! You'll have enough time to take the train down to the beaches in Jurmala -- or a day trip to Sigulda. Riga In Your Pocket (similar version available for Tallinn too) is super informative. If Emihls Gustavs Chocolate (in the Bergas Bazars) has survived possible bankruptcy, have some of their hot chocloate, thick enough to stand your spoon in -- chocoholics can die happy here!

Hi skibumette - I'll be in Riga the 5th to the 9th. I'm thinking of a day trip to Sigulda if the weather is good. Any interest in a GTG for coffee or a meal?

Headed to airport now. It looks like the 6th is our overlap day -- we're going to Riga for an event that will eat up much of that day...but morning coffee might be possible? If so, I'll come back with a locale. Are you planning to stay downtown? near Old Town? Or ???

If you go to Sigulda and someone suggests the summer (with wheels) bobsled run (this used to be the Soviet bobsled training facility) be forewarned that my then-teenage nephews did it only once! Turaida Castle (outside Sigulda) is especially nice.

BTW, I've also lived in Belgrade and Bulgaria...so I'm familiar with some of your other B's. But that was rather a long time ago...

I'm staying here: http://www.hoteledvards.lv/ - Dzirnavu street between Valdemara and Skolas streets.

I figured if I was going to Riga for the Art Nouveau buildings I should stay near them. Morning coffee would be great.

Have enjoyed Tallinn, take the bus to Riga tomorrow morning. The bus is supposed to have wifi, which will be nice, as my hotel room doesn't.

<b>August 28-31 - Sightseeing Helsinki, Part One</b>

Helsinki looks its best in sunshine. Unfortunately, I had more rain than sun. I enjoyed just enough sun to appreciate how much more brightly the gold finials on the Russian Orthodox Uspenski cathedral could shine, and just how vividly green the grass down the center of the Esplanade could glow. Sprinkled with raindrops sparkling under a blue sky, the grass seemed almost luridly bright. I admired the display from the Cafe Strindberg, whose own Art Deco interior sparkled as well.

The interior of the Russian Orthodox cathedral didn't live up to the outside, at least for me. While the windows provided light, they also occupied wall space I had expected to be given over to murals, and the vaunted iconostasis was only two saints high, instead of the four or five levels I had seen in Russia. Maybe if it had been my first Orthodox church... The first time I tried to visit I met an American couple at the foot of the stairs who told me it had just closed. They were sorry to have missed the interior, as "there weren't any in America". I think they just hadn't looked, as there are several Russian synods in the US, and at least a dozen Greek Orthodox churches just in Bible Belt NC..

The Uspenski cathedral, legacy of the Russian rulers, occupies one hill. A second is crowned by a Lutheran cathedral, legacy of earlier, Swedish, rulers. Its interior was stark, but that I had expected. I spent an instructive time in the local history museum, where I realized that although I had supposedly studied "European" history in school in England, I had actually studied western European history, we had spent very little time on the north and east. While Finland, for much of its history, was a frontier territory, with hunting, fishing, and seal hunting more important than agriculture, it was also on important trade routes, with tentacles reaching as far as Istanbul. But it was well beyond the Pax Romana, and remained pagan into the second Christian millenium.

The history museum was an unexpected pleasure, but the Design Museum, high on my list of sights, proved disappointing. The permanent exhibition was much smaller than I had expected, and I began to wonder whether I had confused Finnish design with Danish - I certainly preferred Copenhagen airport! The temporary exhibition featured the work of Kaj Franck. Unfortunately, while functionalism sounds admirable in theory, in visual reality it quickly becomes boring. This was also where I managed to drop my brand new camera, while trying to load a locker. After I had manually adjusted the plates that covered the lens, it seemed to be functioning again, but I wondered whether that would last.

I visited the Design Museum my first afternoon in town, right after the Sibelius Monument. (I had bought a transport pass and was zipping around on the trams.) I had seen several photographs of the multiple pipes that form the monument, but hadn't realized that they were decorated. The monument had been controversial, and the artist had to add a bust of the composer, but I thought the pipes admirable.

I ate a forgettable slice of quiche for lunch in the Design Museum, but that evening I had a more memorable meal at a place called BBQ House at the Kamppi metro station/bus station/mall. I mostly chose it because I had uncharacteristically accepted a flyer that turned out to offer a free glass of sparkling wine for eating there, but my chicken was fine, if somewhat slow in arriving.

How about coffee at Art Cafe Sienna at Strelnieku 3; this should be right at intersection with Alberta iela, the heart and soul of Art Nouveau? Perhaps 11:30 tomorrow - but I could do other times up to 1:00 if 11:30 messes up your plans for the day.

That sounds fine - see you there. Looking forward to it! (I'll be the woman wih grey hair, glasses and probably boots. Used to be orange hair, but I couldn't get it hennaed on the last trip and let it grow out.)

Bookmarking for later read-glad you were able to get out before Irene!

I'll look for you then! I have short blonde hair - wearing purple striped blouse or light blue turtleneck depending on weather.

In the meantime, the Art Nouveau museum at Alberta iela 12 (corner of Strelnieku; entrance is on Strelnieku side. It's on first floor; you have to ring bell and they'll buzz you in) opens at 10:00; it's small but very nicely done. They have nice brochures (may have to pay modest sum) showing locations of best Art Nouveau buildings around town. There are also apparently guided tours of Art Nouveau Riga from the tourism office near the Blackheads House in Old Town but you may not want to bother? Lots to explore on your own!

<b>August 29 - 31 - Sightseeing Helsinki, Part Two</b>

Helsinki is a relatively new city, which exists because the Swedes built  Suomenlinna fortress on a nearby island as a defense against the Russians. (They ultimately lost Finland to the Russian tsars, but later than the Baltic regions.) The fortress was a marvel in its day, and is still considered a must-see sight, but I like my castles medieval, and wasn't terribly interested. However, rather than pay for a pricey harbor tour, I took the much cheaper ferry over just to get a look at the city from the sea.

Driving into the city from the airport I had been struck by how northern the countryside looked - evergreens and flat granite outcroppings - and now the overhelming impression was of more flatness - low islands scattered across a grey sea. The best feature was the Turneresque sky, with everchanging clouds spreading to infinity. However, my feet were complaining, and I soon took the ferry back to the mainland.

I did ignore my feet when it came to checking out the Art Nouveau buildings. I had picked up a brochure with a walking tour from the T.I. (no English ones available, but my French was good enough) and followed most of it in between rain showers. But although I found a few buildings I enjoyed, in general I thought the architecture more Art Deco than Nouveau.

The rain did limit my sightseeing - I abandoned plans to visit the Open Air Ethnographical Museum, and a possible side trip to Porvoo. The afternoon I went to the Church in the Rock (as much on as in, but interesting none-the-less) it rained so hard that I retreated to a cafe I had spotted near the tram stop. The coffee wasn't great, but it was a nice cafe, with well-filled book shelves and comfortable seats.

My last afternoon I gave up all pretence of being a tourist. I ate a late lunch sandwich in the Stockman department store, and followed the recommendation of the young local sitting next to me to take the underground passage to the neighboring Academic Bookstore. Here I drank coffee while I browsed a couple of guide books, and then settled into an armchair on the ground floor to read the first chapter of Bill Bryson's latest book. (I'm now reading the rest of it on my iPad, having borrowed it electronically from my home town library. I only get a seven day loan, though, and it's a big book.) 

That morning I had checked out one of the indoor markets and another, less famous department store, and been a little stunned by the prices. Not so much for the kitchenware and china, but for games and books. I haven't bought any physical games lately, but surely 50 euro for Monopoly and 35 euro for Scrabble is a bit excessive? And Lonely Planet guidebooks that sold for $26 in the U.S. were priced at 28 euro, while a slim P. D. James from the 60's cost 30 euro.

Helsinki was not kind to my budget. Aside from the two extra hotel nights, I also spent a fair amount on food. I tried reindeer once, in a sandwich at Cafe Strindberg, and thought it a little too strong. That night I had intended to eat cheaply at Cafe Engel, but was too hungry for their offerings, and went upstairs to the recommendable Sunn instead for a delicious appetizer of small fish and wild mushrooms, and a calves liver entree. Other nights I ate Chinese and then Nepalese/Indian - acceptable but not memorable.

Am now in Riga. Bus ride would have been boring without wifi and seatmate - lots and lots of pine trees.

Met skibumette, charming and well-travelled and no kind of bum, as planned - appreciate her taking the time out of her short trip. Had a lovely chat.

Interesting to see where you are and where you go next. Sorry to hear that Helsinki was expensive and wet. Have also rediscovered your Caucasus trip (was it really 2 years ago) as am thinking along those lines...