tcreath's trip report to spectacular Croatia and Slovenia (plus Bosnia and Montenegro)
Nov 16th, 2006, 07:01 AM
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lol moolyn...I guess I can get my trip report up quickly because I'm not good enough of a writer to keep folks entertained with a really long report so I tend to keep it short! But I love your Dordogne report and have been following it from the beginning. It definitely caused me to add it to my ever-growing list of "must visits"!
The language wasn't a problem at all. Honestly I think the language barrier is even less of a problem than in some places that we've visited in Italy and Germany. Most Croatians speak excellent english, and most menus are in many languages, including English, so that wasn't a problem either. We had a wonderful chat with the woman who owned the hotel in Trogir that we stayed in. She said that Croatians are required to learn English from grade school and all the way through University, along with several other languages, mostly because nobody else really speaks their language besides some of the former-Yugoslavian countries and therefore they wouldn't be able to get by if they didn't learn the other languages.
As far as gluten-free, I'm not really sure but I don't think it would be a problem. There is tons of seafood, obviously, and lots of great meat dishes as well. Avoiding the bread baskets and problem some of the more pasta-based Italian restaurants should be easy enough. I have an intollerance for fructose but luckily its not too severe a problem so I kind of let it go while we were on vacation. I thought that the baklava would be a problem but luckily not. I guess my sensitive stomache was on vacation the same time we were!
Thanks again for reading!
Tracy
The language wasn't a problem at all. Honestly I think the language barrier is even less of a problem than in some places that we've visited in Italy and Germany. Most Croatians speak excellent english, and most menus are in many languages, including English, so that wasn't a problem either. We had a wonderful chat with the woman who owned the hotel in Trogir that we stayed in. She said that Croatians are required to learn English from grade school and all the way through University, along with several other languages, mostly because nobody else really speaks their language besides some of the former-Yugoslavian countries and therefore they wouldn't be able to get by if they didn't learn the other languages.
As far as gluten-free, I'm not really sure but I don't think it would be a problem. There is tons of seafood, obviously, and lots of great meat dishes as well. Avoiding the bread baskets and problem some of the more pasta-based Italian restaurants should be easy enough. I have an intollerance for fructose but luckily its not too severe a problem so I kind of let it go while we were on vacation. I thought that the baklava would be a problem but luckily not. I guess my sensitive stomache was on vacation the same time we were!
Thanks again for reading!
Tracy
Nov 16th, 2006, 07:31 PM
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You sell yourself short, Tracy! This is a wonderful report. I am totally enjoying and hope it goes a loooonnngggg time! Your pictures are great and you two are a cute couple. I am anxious to hear about your Montenegro day. What serendipity to have another couple you "clicked" with to take a tour together.
Nov 17th, 2006, 05:13 AM
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Day 4 - Our tour of Bosnia and Montengro
Matt and I woke up bright and early today, excited and anxious to finally get to Montenegro! We have always wanted to visit Norway to experience the fjords, but have yet to make it there. As soon as hubby found out that Montenegro has the only fjord in Europe outside of Norway Montenegro was placed on our itinerary.
We grabbed a quick breakfast of pastries (donut-like pastry with vanilla custard for me, chocolate croissant for Matt) and an orange juice from a small pastry shop on a small road off of stradum and sat on the steps of the Onofrio fountain eating and marveling at the beauty of Croatia once again.
We then made our way to the Hilton Imperial, not far from Pile gate, and got there around 8:45. Since we had a few minutes to spare, we inquired about a hotel room for our final night. We had a dilemma while planning this vacation because we were unsure of where to stay on our final night in Croatia. We were flying from Zagreb back to Dubrovnik later on in our trip, and our plane didn't arrive until almost 10:00 pm. We wanted to stay somewhere near the airport, since we were flying back to London early the next afternoon, but none of the hotels in Cavtat were open this time of year. The Hilton was a good choice because not only were they open, but it wouldn't be a problem arriving late. Unfortunately they quoted us a very high rate of 180 euro for the one night. I'm jumping ahead a little bit here, but later on this evening we booked it for just over 100 euro on their website when we stopped at a travel cafe.
Anyways, Shaun and Mike, the other couple traveling with us that we met yesterday, met us at the lobby and we went outside to where our guide was waiting with his Mercedes. Our guide was Nikola Serkovic, and he was amazing. He started out by taking us to the fort, built during the Napoleonic era, high above Dubrovnik. He explained that it was used as a front line during the recent war, and that a chair lift used to escort tourists to the top before it was bombed by the Serbian military. The fort is supposed to be off-limits, but he got us inside and it was fascinating to walk around. However, the best aspect of being up at the fort was the amazing views of Dubrovnik down below. The water around the old town, with its many shades of blues and greens, was simply marvelous.
While up there I inquired about Bosnia. He pointed to a mountain peak not too far away and said that Bosnia was over there. He then asked us if we wanted to go. Of course we all enthusiastically said yes. We passed a few towns that were hit pretty hard during the war, and soon afterwards found ourselves at the Bosnian border. Border control was pretty uneventful, and to my delight I heard the distinct sound of a stamp being placed in each of our passports. Nikola took us to an interesting town in Bosnia called Trsteno. Their was an old part of town built in a city wall, and he parked outside of the wall and told us that we could meet him back there in 20 minutes. The town is fairly small so that was fine with us. We took lots of pictures and had a good time. This is definitely off the beaten tourist path. Many locals were staring at us, and I'm assuming its because they don't see English-speaking tourists in their small working-class town too often.
The drive through the Bosnian countryside was really fascinating. The terrain was unlike anything I'v seen before. Rugged and rocky but with very high peaks and little tufts of green grass and trees scattered about here and there. My husband says that it looked almost "alien-like" to him. Very cool. For anyone who is hesitant to visit Bosnia, I highly suggest going. We encountered friendly people and the landscape alone is worth the journey. I would love to go back and spend some more time there.
Okay, on to Montenegro! Again, the border control was fairly uneventful. We got our stamps (although they don't say "Montenegro" on them, perhaps because the country is so new?) and were on our way. We arrived in Montenegro high up in the mountains. As we slowly made our way down the twisty and turny road, towards the town of Herzeg Novi, we could see glimpses of the Adriatic that were just incredible. We finally made our way down and through Herzeg Novi, driving towards Kotor. Our first stop was a pull-over to take pictures of the amazingly beautiful fjord with the small town of Perast across the way. Wow. I honestly don't think I've seen anything as beautiful as this sight in my life. Words can't explain how amazing this was. The water was so calm and clear that you could throw a rock and watch it sink all the way to the botton even though the water was quite deep. The stillness was refreshing and invigorating. We got back in the car and stopped in Perast, where we spent about 20 minutes. Perast is a small town not too far from Kotor. Built with beautiful stone and quite quite during November, it was the perfect spot to take pictures and soak in some of the amazing views. I don't think I've ever heard so many "ooh's" and "aaah's" as I did during our Montenegro trip!
Next stop, Kotor. Wow. We all loved Kotor. It was quite lively, especially compared to Trsteno and Perast, partly due to the fact that a cruise ship was docked in the harbor. Kotor is a beautifully preserved historic town, built within a wall, on the Bay of Kotor. This town is a must for anyone visiting Dubrovnik! The town was just delightful, with cafes and restaurants and lots of interesting churches to visit. In the mountains above the town is a huge fortress with walls that span for miles. The four of us sat together and had coffee at an ourdoor cafe and then just strolled around the town. Since nobody had a Montenegro guidebook (I could never find one in St. Louis), both couples purchased guidebooks on Kotor and Montenegro that were quite helpful. We only had an hour here, and I wish we would have had longer. Matt and I decided that on our next trip to the area (yes, there will be futrue trips!) we would spend at least a few nights in Kotor.
We all piled back in the car and made our way to Budva. Budva is another walled city, and you can walk the city walls, but the town was completely dead during this time of year. We were all starving by now so our thought was to explore a little bit and then eat. Unfortunately that didn't go as planned. We walked part of the city walls, getting beautiful pictures, and then went about finding a place to eat. This proved to be quite a difficult task, as hardly anything was open. We finally find a restaurant that says "pizza" and was open so we went for it. We ordered our drinks and our meals and sat and chatted. After about half an hour we started to panic. We were supposed to meet our driver in about 10 minutes and our food still wasn't here. We called the waiter, who comes out and tells us that the stove is broke and he couldn't cook our food. Annoyed because he waited 30 minutes to tell us this, we quickly threw down the money for our drinks and left. The only thing to do was stop at a grocery store outside of the walls and pick up junk food (chips and candy) to hold us over. Overall I liked Budva, but not nearly as much as Kotor. I honestly wish we could have taken most of the time spent in Budva and added it to Kotor.
Our final stop of the day was to Sveti Stefan, the beautiful fortress, not a hotel, on a small island in the Adriatic. This was just stunning. The sun was shining brightly so it was difficult to get a good picture of it, but again the calmness of the water was quite exhilirating.
As we made our way back towards Kotor we got on the car ferry to take us across the bay. By now it was sunset and standing on the ferry with the breeze blowing and the sun setting was a magical moment that I will always treasure.
All in all it was the perfect day. Nikola couldn't have been a better guide. He answered tons of our questions and took us to places we never would have visited if we would have taken the Atlas tour. He stopped when we wanted to take pictures, and he gave us lots of great information and insight. For anyone who may be interested, his name is Nikola Serkovic. His phone number is 385/0/98 243-305 and his email is nikola.serkovic.du.htnet.hr.
We were dropped off at the Hilton, where we made plans to meet up with Mike and Shaun later on for drinks at one of the Irish pubs in Dubrovnik. Matt and I went back to our hotel, freshed up, and then headed to Mea Culpa for dinner of delicious pizza. Matt had a cheese pizza with salami, and mine had bacon and onion. Yum! We each had a Karlovacko beer (another local beer) and discussed the awesome day we had.
Mike and Shaun were so great to travel with because they travel a lot like we do. We are not really "beachy people". We love ancient history and experiencing new cultures. A big part of the joy of the day was experiencing it with them. Also a fun fact: we realized that we flew to Dubrovnik with them and we were taking the same flight back to London with them as well! Small world!
Anyways, after pizza at Mea Culpa we hit the internet cafe to check e-mail, book the Hilton and say hello to Fodors before meeting Mike and Shaun at the pub. This was a very late night for us, and Matt and I are not really the up-all-night type. We met them at 8:00 and were still there when the pub closed at 11:30 so we headed back to the Hilton to sit in the lounge. We had such a great time. After a very long night, we finally had to say our goodbyes because we were picking up our car tomorrow morning to drive up the coast and we needed some rest. We bid Mike and Shaun fairwell, promising to meet them the final day to take a taxi to the airport together, and walked back to our hotel where we quickly crashed for the night.
Next, a stunning drive up the Croatian coast, Split and Trogir
Matt and I woke up bright and early today, excited and anxious to finally get to Montenegro! We have always wanted to visit Norway to experience the fjords, but have yet to make it there. As soon as hubby found out that Montenegro has the only fjord in Europe outside of Norway Montenegro was placed on our itinerary.
We grabbed a quick breakfast of pastries (donut-like pastry with vanilla custard for me, chocolate croissant for Matt) and an orange juice from a small pastry shop on a small road off of stradum and sat on the steps of the Onofrio fountain eating and marveling at the beauty of Croatia once again.
We then made our way to the Hilton Imperial, not far from Pile gate, and got there around 8:45. Since we had a few minutes to spare, we inquired about a hotel room for our final night. We had a dilemma while planning this vacation because we were unsure of where to stay on our final night in Croatia. We were flying from Zagreb back to Dubrovnik later on in our trip, and our plane didn't arrive until almost 10:00 pm. We wanted to stay somewhere near the airport, since we were flying back to London early the next afternoon, but none of the hotels in Cavtat were open this time of year. The Hilton was a good choice because not only were they open, but it wouldn't be a problem arriving late. Unfortunately they quoted us a very high rate of 180 euro for the one night. I'm jumping ahead a little bit here, but later on this evening we booked it for just over 100 euro on their website when we stopped at a travel cafe.
Anyways, Shaun and Mike, the other couple traveling with us that we met yesterday, met us at the lobby and we went outside to where our guide was waiting with his Mercedes. Our guide was Nikola Serkovic, and he was amazing. He started out by taking us to the fort, built during the Napoleonic era, high above Dubrovnik. He explained that it was used as a front line during the recent war, and that a chair lift used to escort tourists to the top before it was bombed by the Serbian military. The fort is supposed to be off-limits, but he got us inside and it was fascinating to walk around. However, the best aspect of being up at the fort was the amazing views of Dubrovnik down below. The water around the old town, with its many shades of blues and greens, was simply marvelous.
While up there I inquired about Bosnia. He pointed to a mountain peak not too far away and said that Bosnia was over there. He then asked us if we wanted to go. Of course we all enthusiastically said yes. We passed a few towns that were hit pretty hard during the war, and soon afterwards found ourselves at the Bosnian border. Border control was pretty uneventful, and to my delight I heard the distinct sound of a stamp being placed in each of our passports. Nikola took us to an interesting town in Bosnia called Trsteno. Their was an old part of town built in a city wall, and he parked outside of the wall and told us that we could meet him back there in 20 minutes. The town is fairly small so that was fine with us. We took lots of pictures and had a good time. This is definitely off the beaten tourist path. Many locals were staring at us, and I'm assuming its because they don't see English-speaking tourists in their small working-class town too often.
The drive through the Bosnian countryside was really fascinating. The terrain was unlike anything I'v seen before. Rugged and rocky but with very high peaks and little tufts of green grass and trees scattered about here and there. My husband says that it looked almost "alien-like" to him. Very cool. For anyone who is hesitant to visit Bosnia, I highly suggest going. We encountered friendly people and the landscape alone is worth the journey. I would love to go back and spend some more time there.
Okay, on to Montenegro! Again, the border control was fairly uneventful. We got our stamps (although they don't say "Montenegro" on them, perhaps because the country is so new?) and were on our way. We arrived in Montenegro high up in the mountains. As we slowly made our way down the twisty and turny road, towards the town of Herzeg Novi, we could see glimpses of the Adriatic that were just incredible. We finally made our way down and through Herzeg Novi, driving towards Kotor. Our first stop was a pull-over to take pictures of the amazingly beautiful fjord with the small town of Perast across the way. Wow. I honestly don't think I've seen anything as beautiful as this sight in my life. Words can't explain how amazing this was. The water was so calm and clear that you could throw a rock and watch it sink all the way to the botton even though the water was quite deep. The stillness was refreshing and invigorating. We got back in the car and stopped in Perast, where we spent about 20 minutes. Perast is a small town not too far from Kotor. Built with beautiful stone and quite quite during November, it was the perfect spot to take pictures and soak in some of the amazing views. I don't think I've ever heard so many "ooh's" and "aaah's" as I did during our Montenegro trip!
Next stop, Kotor. Wow. We all loved Kotor. It was quite lively, especially compared to Trsteno and Perast, partly due to the fact that a cruise ship was docked in the harbor. Kotor is a beautifully preserved historic town, built within a wall, on the Bay of Kotor. This town is a must for anyone visiting Dubrovnik! The town was just delightful, with cafes and restaurants and lots of interesting churches to visit. In the mountains above the town is a huge fortress with walls that span for miles. The four of us sat together and had coffee at an ourdoor cafe and then just strolled around the town. Since nobody had a Montenegro guidebook (I could never find one in St. Louis), both couples purchased guidebooks on Kotor and Montenegro that were quite helpful. We only had an hour here, and I wish we would have had longer. Matt and I decided that on our next trip to the area (yes, there will be futrue trips!) we would spend at least a few nights in Kotor.
We all piled back in the car and made our way to Budva. Budva is another walled city, and you can walk the city walls, but the town was completely dead during this time of year. We were all starving by now so our thought was to explore a little bit and then eat. Unfortunately that didn't go as planned. We walked part of the city walls, getting beautiful pictures, and then went about finding a place to eat. This proved to be quite a difficult task, as hardly anything was open. We finally find a restaurant that says "pizza" and was open so we went for it. We ordered our drinks and our meals and sat and chatted. After about half an hour we started to panic. We were supposed to meet our driver in about 10 minutes and our food still wasn't here. We called the waiter, who comes out and tells us that the stove is broke and he couldn't cook our food. Annoyed because he waited 30 minutes to tell us this, we quickly threw down the money for our drinks and left. The only thing to do was stop at a grocery store outside of the walls and pick up junk food (chips and candy) to hold us over. Overall I liked Budva, but not nearly as much as Kotor. I honestly wish we could have taken most of the time spent in Budva and added it to Kotor.
Our final stop of the day was to Sveti Stefan, the beautiful fortress, not a hotel, on a small island in the Adriatic. This was just stunning. The sun was shining brightly so it was difficult to get a good picture of it, but again the calmness of the water was quite exhilirating.
As we made our way back towards Kotor we got on the car ferry to take us across the bay. By now it was sunset and standing on the ferry with the breeze blowing and the sun setting was a magical moment that I will always treasure.
All in all it was the perfect day. Nikola couldn't have been a better guide. He answered tons of our questions and took us to places we never would have visited if we would have taken the Atlas tour. He stopped when we wanted to take pictures, and he gave us lots of great information and insight. For anyone who may be interested, his name is Nikola Serkovic. His phone number is 385/0/98 243-305 and his email is nikola.serkovic.du.htnet.hr.
We were dropped off at the Hilton, where we made plans to meet up with Mike and Shaun later on for drinks at one of the Irish pubs in Dubrovnik. Matt and I went back to our hotel, freshed up, and then headed to Mea Culpa for dinner of delicious pizza. Matt had a cheese pizza with salami, and mine had bacon and onion. Yum! We each had a Karlovacko beer (another local beer) and discussed the awesome day we had.
Mike and Shaun were so great to travel with because they travel a lot like we do. We are not really "beachy people". We love ancient history and experiencing new cultures. A big part of the joy of the day was experiencing it with them. Also a fun fact: we realized that we flew to Dubrovnik with them and we were taking the same flight back to London with them as well! Small world!
Anyways, after pizza at Mea Culpa we hit the internet cafe to check e-mail, book the Hilton and say hello to Fodors before meeting Mike and Shaun at the pub. This was a very late night for us, and Matt and I are not really the up-all-night type. We met them at 8:00 and were still there when the pub closed at 11:30 so we headed back to the Hilton to sit in the lounge. We had such a great time. After a very long night, we finally had to say our goodbyes because we were picking up our car tomorrow morning to drive up the coast and we needed some rest. We bid Mike and Shaun fairwell, promising to meet them the final day to take a taxi to the airport together, and walked back to our hotel where we quickly crashed for the night.
Next, a stunning drive up the Croatian coast, Split and Trogir
Nov 17th, 2006, 06:49 AM
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Tracy, thanks for answering my questions! Croatia is now definitely on my list of places I have to see.
There was a film called Montenegro back in the 80s. Kind of weird but you might want to search it out.
There was a film called Montenegro back in the 80s. Kind of weird but you might want to search it out.
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:36 AM
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Hi Tracy...
>>>Our final stop of the day was to Sveti Stefan, the beautiful fortress, not a hotel, on a small island in the Adriatic.<<<
Since when? We stayed there as recently as three years ago...absolutely unique and delightful lodgings.
Loving your report. Very descriptive...
Stu T.
>>>Our final stop of the day was to Sveti Stefan, the beautiful fortress, not a hotel, on a small island in the Adriatic.<<<
Since when? We stayed there as recently as three years ago...absolutely unique and delightful lodgings.
Loving your report. Very descriptive...
Stu T.
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:37 AM
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Nov 17th, 2006, 09:39 AM
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Stu, you caught one of my many spelling mistakes. I must be more careful! I meant to put "now a hotel". What a big difference one letter makes!
I would love to stay at the hotel. Our driver said that its a 5 star hotel, so I doubt its in our price range, but one can always dream. I couldn't imagine a better location for a hotel.
Thanks for catching that!
Tracy
I would love to stay at the hotel. Our driver said that its a 5 star hotel, so I doubt its in our price range, but one can always dream. I couldn't imagine a better location for a hotel.
Thanks for catching that!
Tracy
Nov 17th, 2006, 11:19 AM
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Yikes....another mistake! You know, I confused the two during the whole trip. I guess Lokrum and Lopud sound just too much alike! But you are absolutely right. Thanks for pointing it out!
Tracy
Tracy
Nov 17th, 2006, 11:29 AM
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Tracy,
Loving your report! I was in Dubrovnik in September, and have yet to start my trip report...I know...I need to get my "bum" in gear and do it, but I'm a little intimidated by all these great trip report authors!
Loving your report! I was in Dubrovnik in September, and have yet to start my trip report...I know...I need to get my "bum" in gear and do it, but I'm a little intimidated by all these great trip report authors!
Nov 17th, 2006, 07:58 PM
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Tracy...would you believe we paid equiv. of $60 for a great view room and sumptuous breakfast only three years ago..of course it was the LAST two nights of their season (they were closing for NOv, Dec and Jan)and they surprised us with the $60 rate...only about three guests staying there those last two nights). Wonderful experience!
Stu T. (did you find any of the gelato places I mentioned?)
Stu T. (did you find any of the gelato places I mentioned?)
Nov 18th, 2006, 04:14 PM
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Stu,
Wow...great price! I assumed it would cost a small fortune to stay there, but I guess it all depends on the time of year you visit. Its something I'll definitely look into on our next trip.
I think I found at least one of the gelaterias you mentioned. Is it the one that is right across from Onofrio fountain? We got some delicious gelato there one day. We also stopped at various gelaterias throughout our Dubrovnik stay, so I wouldn't be surprised if we hit the one you recommended.
As far as the one in Trogir, I think it was closed? There was very little open in Trogir when we were there, so I don't think I saw it. We spent very little time in Trogir, to be honest, because the town was so shut down. Still, it was a charming town in a beautiful setting and I would love to go back and visit.
Tracy
Wow...great price! I assumed it would cost a small fortune to stay there, but I guess it all depends on the time of year you visit. Its something I'll definitely look into on our next trip.
I think I found at least one of the gelaterias you mentioned. Is it the one that is right across from Onofrio fountain? We got some delicious gelato there one day. We also stopped at various gelaterias throughout our Dubrovnik stay, so I wouldn't be surprised if we hit the one you recommended.
As far as the one in Trogir, I think it was closed? There was very little open in Trogir when we were there, so I don't think I saw it. We spent very little time in Trogir, to be honest, because the town was so shut down. Still, it was a charming town in a beautiful setting and I would love to go back and visit.
Tracy
Nov 19th, 2006, 07:13 AM
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tracy.. thanks for the great report.. you dined at many of the same places we did (Taj Mahal, Mea Culpa), and your observations of the beauty of Croatia remind me of my own. When you said that 'the best part of Dubrovnik is just being there' -- captured my thoughts exactly. i'm SO enjoying walking around there again (sortof) with you. Glad that your Atlas Montenegro snafu worked out for the best also. looking forward to more......
Nov 19th, 2006, 01:58 PM
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Thank you both for reading my report!
Maureen, I think your thoughts match the thoughts of many of our family members and friends who throught we were nuts to pick Croatia as a travel destination. They took a look at our pictures and most were quite pleasantly surprised. It really is a gorgeous country and I highly recommend visiting!
callalilli, I read through many of your posts when planning this trip, so I owe you a very big thanks! Getting to Croatia was kind of a pain, but luckily it was more than worth it. I wish I was back in Dubrovnik right now....
I should be adding to my report within the next day or two. Thanks again to everyone for reading!
Tracy
Maureen, I think your thoughts match the thoughts of many of our family members and friends who throught we were nuts to pick Croatia as a travel destination. They took a look at our pictures and most were quite pleasantly surprised. It really is a gorgeous country and I highly recommend visiting!
callalilli, I read through many of your posts when planning this trip, so I owe you a very big thanks! Getting to Croatia was kind of a pain, but luckily it was more than worth it. I wish I was back in Dubrovnik right now....
I should be adding to my report within the next day or two. Thanks again to everyone for reading!
Tracy
Nov 19th, 2006, 03:54 PM
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hey tracy.. i just viewed your photos.. very nice! it looks different in November but so inviting me back! I was wondering if i could ask you a favor.. could you email one of your pics to me? i collect pictures of crossing signs.. and i really like the one you have entering Budapest with the round crossing sign behind it. if you dont mind sharing it with me so i can print it and add it to my photo album. i'm at my screenname plus [email protected]. (please dont feel like you cant say no.. )
Nov 20th, 2006, 05:17 AM
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callalilli, absolutely! I took those pictures because I had no idea how to pronounce some of the town names on them so I thought they were interesting. And we too liked the crossing signs, and saw them quite often while on our short Hungary journey.
I'm sending it now!
Tracy
I'm sending it now!
Tracy
