Just got back from a nice (but too short) trip from July 3-13. Fourth Switzerland trip for us but first with our kids (15 and 14), so we tried to go to places we've already been to and knew but also do a few more things that the kids would like. Our only real problem was the weather--it rained (or snowed) at least part of every day we were there, so our plans had to be adjusted somewhat to reduce hiking (no one minded except me) and some mountain top visits. We had a Swiss Saverpass for the trains and a Swiss Family Card, so the kids traveled for free on the trains--a great deal.

Took Swiss flight from Miami to Zurich--excellent as always, although coach is pretty cramped. From the Zurich airport (a very simple process there to get the train pass validated and catch the train into the city), we took the train to Pontresina via Zurich, Chur and Samedan (the route between the latter two is part of the Bernina Express route, which we did three years ago, and is very scenic). Spent 3 nights in Pontresina at the Hotel Saratz. We had stayed there before in the newer wing, and those rooms are quite new and plush. This time, due to having the need for a "family room" for the 4 of us to save some money, we were put in the old wing, which has much more basic (and cheaper) but decent rooms. The Saratz has excellent facilities (indoor and outdoor pools, a putting green, etc.)and is great for families. Our dinners while in the area were at the Engadina in St. Moritz (good fondue and "rosti pizza&quot, the Pitschna Scena at the Saratz and the Cafe Puntschella (each with good heavy Swiss-style food). The weather slightly limited our hiking choices and prevented mountain-top visits, but we had fun strolling around Maloja, St. Moritz and Pontresina, and we took the lakeside hike from Maloja (bus ride there free with the Swiss Saverpass) to Sils-Maria and the wonderfully scenic (and easy, except for one very short steep section near the end) hike from Muottas Muragl (no Swiss Pass discount was allowed on the funicular?!?) to the chair lift station above Alp Languard, with a stop for lunch on the latter hike at the little Unterer Schafberg restaurant.

Then off by train for a quick visit to Luzern. It was raining again, so we took the boat from the train station to spend most of the day at the Swiss Transport Museum, where the kids had a ball. (Note--the Swiss Pass is supposed to give you a discount there, but it was refused.) Dinner at the Restaurante Rossini on the river, very good Italian food but subpar service. (The next door bakery is great!) We stayed at the Hotel Continental Park, a very nice and reasonably priced hotel a stone's throw from the train station.

Next, we were off to Wengen for 3 nights via the GoldenPass Panorama train (1st class was full--but we had made an advance reservation on the GoldenPass website). The trip over the Brunig Pass and then to Meiringen, Brienz, Interlaken and thereafter is spectacular--even the kids appreciated it. On our last visit to the area, we stayed in Interlaken--but we now prefer Wengen as a base, even though it was cold and cloudy most of the time we were there. Wengen seems like the perfect little mountain resort village. We stayed there at the Hotel Schonegg, which has nice rooms and great food (we ate dinner there every night on a meal plan and the chef was quite creative). Our first day was a washout and so we walked around Grindlewald (we tried going up higher, but got hit with snow and sleet), The next day we had a few clear hours. In that time, we took the cable car to Mannlichen and hiked from there to Kleine Scheidegg. This must be the most scenic easy hike in the world! We then took the train from there to the Jungfraujoch (kids were free with the Family Card--a HUGE savings) for a fairly clear view at the top. The highlights there were sliding down a hill on a plastic snow disk (free with a SFr 10 deposit) and skiing down a short run as many times as we wanted (SFr 33, equipment included). Rain and heavy clouds the next day prevented high-altitude activities, so we visited the "indoor" Trummelbach Falls (another winner per the kids) and then the Ballenberg Open Air Museum (via trains to Brienz and a bus from there). This museum was undoubtedly the biggest "unexpected pleasure" of the whole trip and the perfect bad weather with kids activity. We were there for several hours and wished we had even more time. There is much to see and do (and buy, in a no-pressure way) there that brings Swiss rural history and culture to life, with interactive things for kids to do. We then returned to Wengen from the museum by taking the downhill path from the museum (look for the SBB Bahnhof sign) to the Brienzwiler train station (get a schedule--the train back to Interlaken generally only stops there once an hour).

The next day featured the GoldenPass Panorama train (again, make a prior reservation) to Montreux from Interlaken--another very scenic trip that suffered a little from more rain. We then took a train from there to Nyon, a pleasant little town on Lake Geneva (we stayed there as we have friends who live there and it is only 25 minutes from the Geneva airport). We spent the rest of the day relaxing and walking around Nyon. Our hotel there was the Real right on the lakefront (another family room--a little crowded but the nicest room of the trip). We ate in a very nice lakefront hotel restaurant (can't remember the name) in nearby Coppet with our friends that evening. The next day started sunny, so our friends suggested a side trip to Chamonix for a little taste of nearby France. They drove us there and we had a great outdoor lunch at the golf course restaurant next to the Hotel Le Labrador a short distance outside of town. We then went up to the L'Aiguille du Midi cable car station--even higher than the Jungfraujoch--and very good mountain and valley views for a few minutes before it clouded up. Get there early--it got VERY crowded by early afternoon, and there is a long wait to go down. We then took the long (and scenic) way back via the mountain road over the Swiss border to Col de la Forclaz and Martigny (our friends have family there) and from there to Nyon. The next day, we finished the trip by taking the train to the Geneva airport and then flying back to Miami via Zurich.

The main things we learned from this trip are that there is much to do in Switzerland for kids (they didn't mind the cutback on hiking) and that the unexpected bad weather didn't prevent us from having a great time. We wished we could have made a longer trip, but couldn't for various reasons--hopefully we'll be able to next time. There are many other places we could have gone that we have been to previously (Zermatt, Lugano, Montreux, Gruyere, Lausanne etc.), but we tried to hit the highlights of the mountains and the lakes, and the kids are supposed to take a group trip next summer that will stop at places we otherwise wouldn't have missed, such as Zermatt and Chateaux de Chillon.

Finally, I cannot recommend enough using the Swiss train system. It is extremely reliable and comfortable and a good deal when traveling with children. Except of course for the French side trip, there was never any use or need for a car. Just make sure that you don't bring luggage that you can't carry or roll around with ease, or you'll provide comic relief for the other passengers watching you try to board or get off the trains!

Thanks so much for posting this informative report. We leave a week from today for Switzerland and Italy with our 11 and 14 year old sons. We fly into Zurich, then train to Wengen for 3 nights. It was a little discouraging to hear that the weather was so-so, but you have given me plenty of great ideas of how to adapt. We were already planning to do Trummelbach Falls, but it was great to hear about the Mannlichen-Kleine Scheidegg hike. Also, how long does it take to get to and do the Ballenberg Open Air Museum (I was thinking it was too far away)? Would you recommend doing that one day instead of doing Both Jungfrau and Schilthorn?
One last question, were long sleeved shirts with a fleece or sweatshirt enough or do you need more?
After Wengen, we take the train to Milan to spend 10 days in Northern Italy which is the focus of our trip.
Thanks again for the great info. It sounds like a great trip, and your positive attitude and flexibility in adapting to uncooperative weather is a great reminder to us all. We always have fun on our trips regardless.

It would be about 1 3/4 hours to get to Ballenberg from Wengen (about 15 minutes less from the Trummelbach Falls)--3 short train rides and a bus. It was a choice between Ballenberg and Bern, but we had been to Bern and thought it was OK but nothing special. If cost is no object, and the weather is good, I would do the Jungfraujoch and the Schilthorn, although doing both in one day would be possible but difficult, and you would have to be lucky for both to be clear at the top on the same day. As for clothes--it was about 30 degrees at the Jungfraujoch and in the mid to high 40s at Mannlichen and at night in Wengen--us Floridians needed a few layers to keep warm.

Northern Italy is wonderful as well--we especially loved Lake Como, the Dolomites, the opera at the Roman Arena in Verona and Venice--have a great trip!

Enjoyed your report - thanks for posting.

I commiserate with you on weather! We were in Switzerland from 11-16 June and had lots of rain/snow on about half of the days. To quote the proprietor of our hotel in Grindelwald, "That's how we get all our beautiful flowers!"

We, too, missed some of our planned hikes/activities because of weather -- oh well!

We loved Switzerland and will look forward to another trip sometime.

BTW, I found it interesting that your kids loved the Transport Museum. Our teens (ages 18, 16)hated it; thought it was really geared to much younger kids. Only a couple of things they enjoyed - the crashing cars (my husband and 16 yr. old son did that) and the driving simulator complete with the steering wheel, clutch, brake, and accelerator testing your accident avoidance capabilities. What did your kids enjoy?

taxatty,

Terrific report! Loved reading about your travels. Thanks!!

s

Thanks taxatty,
We are planning to do Schilthorn and Jungfrau on 2 different days, weather permitting. However, it is good to have Ballenberg as a backup plan. Our first choice is to do a bit more hiking and visit Schilthorn, Jungfrau, and Trummelbach as our primary sites. It does sound like I better rethink and plan for another layer to keep warm. I hate to overpack, especially as it will be warm in Italy, but I don't want to be miserable and cold.
We are also using a Swiss Saverpass and free Family Card.
In Northern Italy, we will see Milan, Lake Garda, Verona, and Venice. Unfortunately, opera is not playing while we are in Verona (missed it by a day), but we will be able to see the Arena.
Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks for the enjoyable report!

Glad to hear you liked Ballenberg. I think it's incredible too. However, some of my visitors get bored there because all you see basically are old houses and furnishings. You have to be interested in history and architecture to appreciate its uniqueness.

I could go there every year and still not get enough of it!

always great to hear about Switzerland. thanks so much for the trip report!

DeeDee--at the Transport Museum, my kids liked the interactive exhibits located in the car and motorcycle section (mostly the driving simulator, the Mercedes truck and being able to ride the old high-wheel bicycle), the radio/video room, seeing the special sports car exhibition, the airplane and space section and climbing in the old passenger planes on display. At lot of the interactive stuff was in fact designed for little kids, especially the area in the front of the museum. We missed out on the crashing cars in the open middle area.

Fine report and great trip. Do you have any pictures on line you can share?

Great report. We were there from June 17-28 and I haven't posted my report yet. I promise to hurry- however, we got no rain or snow, but temps in the 90's in Geneva, Montreux and higher than that in Lugano! With no a/c in most places, it was not pleasant at times! However, Wengen was the best spot for us. Planning next trip already, LOL!

Thanks for the trip report, taxatty. Another vote for the outdoor museum at Ballenberg. I'm interested to know about the walk from there to the Brienzwiler train station. I didn't know about that option. Do you remember the length of the walk? J.

No pictures online yet--working on it. It was about a 20 minute easy downhill paved pathway walk from the exit near the Ticino buildings to the train station. There is a sign at the exit telling you that you can also enter there, but you have to go pay at one of the two main entrances (where they give you a sticker to put on).

Thank you very much. The Ballenberg website ballenberg.ch brings back good memories and lots of additions since I was there. J.