Hello!

I'm planning a potential trip to Ireland, concentrating on the West/Southwest part of the country. Assuming I have 7 or 8 days (I could possibly do 9 or 10, but I'm not sure about that), this is what I've mapped out (not in too much detail yet). I would be going in September or Octobr, probably October, since I would like to be in Kinsale for the food festival.

I definitely want to do Cobh and the surrounding area (possibly basing myself at the Ballymakeigh House) then to:

Kinsale (1 or 2 days?)

Galway

Kenmare (2 days)

Dingle/Dingle Peninsula (not sure how much time)

Connemara area (not sure how much time)

I definitely do not want to rush my trip - my visit to Ireland is as much about savoring the countryside and getting to know the people as it is about seeing the sites. The above is just a general outline of what I'd like to concentrate on; I would love to hear your opinions on the above - what I should include that I've missed, what I should leave out, etc...

Of course, this is all dependent on whether the two car/driver companies (Hammond and Ireland Escorted) will allow for a one person private tour; I'm crossing my fingers. They only listed rates for 2 people, but I really want to avoid at group tour at all costs. Are there any other companies that I should contact in this regard?

Thank you!!

topping for all those Irish experts out there.

Betsyp,

as a huge fan of Ireland, I strongly advise you to spend as many days as you possibly can there. Ireland will grab you and, if your experience is anything like my wife's and mine, you will be leaving way too soon.

If you can take 9 or 10 days, you could definitely spend 2 days in the Kinsale area, then spend 3 or 4 days in the Kenmare/Killarney area, then 2 or 3 days in Dingle, and finish up with 2 or 3 days in the Galway/Connemara region (with your last night near the Shannon airport, say in Bunratty).

Altentatively, stay the entire time in the South/Southwest region, never getting further north than County Clare, with its Cliffs of Moher and the Burren. That in itself would be a great trip, allowing plenty of time for you to savor the countryside and get to know the people, as you so wisely suggested.

Hi Beach Dweller!

I think I can extend my stay to 9/10 days; I've adjusted my itinerary somewhat as below:

Arrival day/first night: Ballymakeigh (Killeagh, near Youghal)

2nd/3rd nights: Blue Haven (Kinsale)

4th/5th nights: Shelburne Lodge (Kenmare)

6th/7th nights: Heaton's Guesthouse (Dingle)

8th/9th nights: Ballynahinch Castle (Recess, Connemara)

(1 night Galway - undetermined).


Pat Preston highly, highly recommends staying in the Killarney area because I would be closer to KNP, Muckross House, etc.. than if I stayed in Kenmare. I have my heart set on staying in Kenmare, but I suppose I could stay there just one night and spend the other in the Killarney area rather than both nights in Kenmare). What do you suggest? Is there too much driving time if I base myself in Kenmare?

Thanks again!

Betsy,

with all due respect to Pat Preston, I would spend all your nights in Kenmare instead of one in Killarney. The 30-40 minute drive from Kenmare to KNP is very pretty, very dramatic in places. Also, you could hit whatever you missed on a Killarney area day trip while on your way from Kenmare to Dingle (we saw the Muckross House that way).

I don't mean to sound like I dislike Killarney (we drove through it twice, didn't stay there), it's just that we clicked with Kenmare so much (much smaller, scenic, less

oops, hit the enter key by mistake. I meant to conclude with:

less touristy). Of course, in October, Killarney would not be very crowded, so that would at least be a plus.

Finally, we LOVED Shelburne Lodge--the breakfasts, the hospitality, the warm fire in the parlor. I hope you have a great time!

Betsyp: Sounds as if you have a great trip planned. I stayed at Blue Haven in Kinsale a few years ago. I would stay in Kenmare rather then Killarney. We drove over from Kenmare a couple of times. Very easy if road construction is not going on. Kenmare is my favorite small town in Ireland. One of my other favorite places is Ballynahinch. We didn't leave the grounds and it is so comfortable and unstuffy. I want to go back to Ballynahinch and Kenmare. Also, some of the best scenery anyplace is Dingle Pen. Have a wonderful trip! My Best, Joan

I haven'e heard much about Blue Haven in Kinsale..is it a B&B and how nice is it...Price range?? We're looking there also the end of October..Pam

Betsyp, when is the food festival in Kinsale?? We'll be there the 22nd & 23rd of Oct... and is Heaton's nicer than Greenmount in Dingle..I'm debating on which one......Pam

PamConlon: I stayed at Blue Haven in 1997. It's a small hotel. We had two single rooms, so they were the smallest. They were fine. Just didn't have the same warmness of a b&b. The Pub was a great place to eat. Of course that was years ago. I hear great things about Old Bank House, just down the street. As to Greenmount or Heaton's. I was very happy with Greenmount. My sons had one of the suites and I had the smallest room and shower. We all had wonderful views. Heaton's looks as if it has views also. Good luck, Joan

Hello!

Thank you for all of your help!I'm so glad that Shelburne Lodge and Ballynahinch are so well thought of - they just sounded absolutely wonderful when I read up on them.

The car/driver route is turning out to be way more expensive than I thought - my initial itinerary was priced at approximately $7000.00, and that doesn't include airfare and my lunches/dinners. I don't think I can do that at that price, so I may have to cut something out of this trip. What would you all suggest? I know it would be very difficult.

My other alternative, and I'm seriously considering this, is to get creative and split the difference between a tour and the car/driver. CIE has a very nice Pub and Folk tour, and the beginning of that fits my itinerary nicely. It starts in Dublin, includes the Rock of Cashel and Cobh (which I definitely want to see) and continues on to Kinsale. I have already contacted CIE advise that I would want to stay in my own lodgings and have dinner on my own. The bad thing about this tour (and almost all CIEs, I've noticed) is that dinners are included. Personally I don't think that's a good thing; I would rather have dinner with locals in a local place than with 25 loud tourists.

The tour stays in Kinsale for 2 nights, then passes through Clonakility on the way to Kenmare. I could leave the tour here, and meet up with my car/driver the next day in Kenmare. This would definitely help cut the car/driver expenses down. I'm not sure if I can do it, and I would frankly prefer the whole trip to be via car/driver, but I may have to compromise.

Betayp: I've trained, hired car with drivers, and rented cars. When I went to Kinsale, I trained 1st class to Cork. Loved it, saw the countryside in comfort. Taxied down to Kinsale. If you stay in town(BlueHaven) or Old Bankhouse you could get a car and driver just for touring some. I've told you how much I like Kenmare. When it is raining, it's a walk from Shelburne Lodge and The Lodge. They are both so nice but you might ask at Shelburne if you could get into town some way and back. Dingle you'll have the same problem with both Greenmount and Heatons. This last trip I had my son and a friend and they drove so it wasn't a problem. When you are at Ballynahinch it won't be a problem because everything is right there. You'll want to see more of Connemara and the hotel will give you names of taxis. I used Joyce and we'd decide on a rate and go with it. There are others. As I've said, I've done it all but not buses or hitching. I have to always watch expenses as I paid for 2 rooms, etc. Every year it gets more expensive but in April I paid for tickets, rental car, rental phone and rooms, lunch and dinner for 3 of us. I stayed in nice places and it came to about 11,500 for 18 days. I mean I paid for everything! Hope this is some help to you. Ask more if you need to. My best. Joan

I can't help you with your question about a car/driver company but I can give you some input on your itinerary and accommodations. Last Sept, we spent 2 nights in Kinsale (The Old Presbytery), 1 in Kenmare (supposed to be at Sherlborne but due to my mistake, we ended up at Sea View) and 2 in Dingle (Heatons). All 3 towns and lodgings were great. We didn't at all regret not staying in Killarney because we just loved Kenmare so much. Next trip, we will base out of Kenmare for a week and perhaps Donegal for a week.

Since you're interested in the Kinsale food festival, here are some restuarant recommendations:

In Kinsale, Man Friday for dinner was outstanding as was the Spaniard across the street for lunch. Both are in Scilly, a nice 10 minute walk from towncenter. Big disappointment was Crackpots.

In Kenmare, we ate at a restaurant owned by the Sherlborne hosts but I can't remember the name of it. It was very good.

In Dingle, both The Chart House & the Half Door were very good too.

For lunch everywhere, we got hooked on seafood chowder, soda bread and a pint of Guiness...yum!

I hope you love SW Ireland...we sure did!

Hi Joan

Thanks for the tips. I'd actually been considering hiring a car/driver as needed, but I didn't think that was possible. Do you know of any companies that provide that service? If I can do that, then yes - I think that would work.

I could still stay at Ballymakeigh, just outside of Youghal, on my first night - get a taxi/car driver to take me to Kinsale (stopping at Cobh on the way) and be on my own for those 2 nights. Kinsale sounds like a town that I won't need a car/driver for.

Then, possibly my hotel could arrange for a car/driver to take me to Kenmare. Of course, the problem would be that, if I based myself there for a couple of nights - how would I get around to the sites/scenery?

I think hiring a car/driver as needed, as long as they would be sort of a tour guide as well, might be the ideal solution. I'm going to browse the internet to try and find companies that specialize in that kind of thing.

Tennischick, my mouth is watering just reading about the restaurants. I wonder if you're referring to Packies's, or possibly the Lime House, in Kenmare. I'm already in love with SW Ireland - just imagine when I get there!
Thank you all!

Dear Betsy, Yes, the drivers would be happy to show you their country as you drive. Some of my drivers have had licenses to carry us but they aren't cabs, so charge less. I'd call your host for the 1st nights and ask them if they knew of a driver to pick you up and about how much it would cost. When you go on to your next place you will also be sightseeing. You know I wonder about Kenmare. I love it. Just don't know if I'd want to be so far from the town. I'd love to stay at The Park Hotel right at the top of town. Just too expensive when I travel with others. Irisheyes suggested Lansdowne Arms right in town. I was just in the reception rooms and the Pub and they were nice. I know The Shelburne is so very, very nice. You would need to find a driver to take you around Beara and some of the ring. I wish Irisheyes would come aboard, as she has such good info about this part of Ireland. Let's put out an SOS for her.

Almost forgot. Packies in Kenmare for good food. I guess your walk from Shelburne would only be about 5 to 7 minutes. I'm slow. I'd stay at Shelburne Lodge and ask your hosts about a driver.

Well, I have another questions, so I figure I'd add right onto this.

Does it make any sense, if staying 2 nights in Kinsale, to spend some time travelling up the coast and checking out some of the little towns/villages such as Clonakilty and Baltimore? I'd have to backtrack to get back to Kinsale, of course, and then go back in that direction when heading towards Mizen Mast (the next day).

My other choice would be to spend only one night in Kinsale and add one night in Baltimore/Schull/Goleen (the Fortview B&B sounds wonderful) to be closer to Mizen Mast. The problem, then, would be that I would have little to no time in Kinsale.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much!
Betsy