Grasshopper

jw, Don't apologize! We all go through bad patches and you're having a particularly rough one. I wanted to write you a private email but don't have your email address. If you feel inclined, please write me at [email protected]<BR><BR>In the meantime, for a pick me up, read Trekercat's report on her hiking trip. I'm in total awe! I could never muster up the stamina for a trip like that but would love to see her pictures!

Jan

Hi all, esp. JW,<BR>I was reading through some of the past posts and saw your question, JW! Don't know if it was addressed to me or another Jan but I look at Vierwaldstattersee and Rigi when I look out the window. It is a gorgeous view and one that I will shorly be missing. WE have made the decision to pack up by summer and move on the Ljubljana, Slovenia! We just got back from a week long visit and I am slowly getting more excited.<BR><BR>On our trip down, we drove through the Engadine, the Val Mustair. Absolutely gorgeous and a bit more wild and remote than Val Poschiavo. It is like a step back in time! Still have Val Bregaglia to do... There is a beautiful little town just over the border in Italy called Glurns and/or Gloriana (depending on the language). It is a medieval city with tremendous walls. Unfortunately, we didn't get much of a chance to visit, but definitely next time!<BR><BR>Hope your Mother is doing better and life is getting easier for you. I think everyone on this thread is happy to 'help you up' when you are down.<BR>Take care,<BR>Jan

jw

Hi y'all. Just have a few minutes, things are still pretty rickety around here. I was reading another post about favorite churches and saw this message. Thought I'd quote it (sorry, I forgot to note the person's name and have not the time to find it again), and ask if this is indeed a good way to reach Carona? You know how I feel about frescoes. <BR><BR>Yes, Jan, the window message was for you. What a view! How can you leave it? Anyone cooking something Swiss this weekend? Maybe we could do dinner together by each making a Swiss culinary memory at more or less the same time? I have to do the household grocery shopping in a little while, so speak fast so I can buy a few ingredients. (Stress is a huge factor of my silliness, apologies). Miss you all so much! <BR><BR>Anyway, here's the quote:<BR>"If you ever want a break from the big guys, try to make it to Carona on Lago Lugano on the Swiss-Italian border. You take a boat to the shore, where you board a funicular which takes you up the mountain to this hidden,walled, cobble-stoned town with a lovely, tiny, light-filled church with frescoes on the walls, and a refreshing dearth of tourists. I've seen many European cathhedrals, but that little church was special."<BR><BR>affectionately, J.

Ingo

Hi all,<BR><BR>I am now right deep in my post trip blues ... working on my website about the Engadine helps me to feel a little better.<BR><BR>jw, glad to hear from you after a long time of silence. I think I mentioned it somewhere - Carona is indeed fantastic. One of my absolute favourites in Ticino. Did you know that centuries ago many architects and artists were born there (e.g. Solari, Casella, Petrini). You can find some of their works (little Palazzi, frescos) in Carona, too. The church in the centre of the village is very impressive and beautiful, but I dislike the mixture of styles - originally Romanesque, changes in Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque style.<BR><BR>IMO the pilgrim's church Madonna d'Ongero a few minutes outside the village is much more beautiful - pure Baroque with lots of stucco and frescos. The cable car from Melide to Carona, by the way, is not in operation anymore.<BR><BR>Cooking ... no plans for this weekend, but for the next. I have a recipe from Graub&uuml;nden for lamb. But, every weekend I enjoy the delicious (though expensive) marroni (chestnut) jam from Soglio.<BR><BR>Jan, so you will leave Switzerland? Are you sure?<BR><BR>I hope you had time for a short visit of the convent in M&uuml;stair.<BR><BR>Bye Ingo

jw

Hi. I've printed out some of the past posts to read whenever I want to give myself a ten-minute get-away. You see, our threads continue to give pleasure.<BR><BR>Ingo, I do recall that you raved about Carona previously -- what caught my attention about the quoted post was the connection from Melide's boatstop. I see, however, that the bus connections are simple and quick from Lugano, so it will be on my to-do list for sure.<BR><BR>Changing the subject abruptly to another town starting w/a 'c', has anyone spent some time walking around Cannero Riviera south of Brissago? Apologies, Ingo, if you've already written about it -- I plan to get off the boat and take a good look around on my next trip. (Please God, don't make me wait too many years.)<BR><BR>Has anyone heard from Judi or Kasey? I saw the one post from Judi, and I'm anxious for more narratives. <BR><BR>One more thing in response to reading older posts at this spot -- s', you often mention the promenade to Chillon. I cannot recall if you walk all the way from Montreux, or from Territet? I've never done that stroll, and you make it sound delightful. I've made a note of the Terrasses du Pavillon. I suppose one could boat from Rivaz to Territet and then walk the promenade to Chillon.<BR><BR>Ingo, as people in south-western Louisiana recover from Hurricane Lili, I've been thinking of the folks along the Elbe. How is the recovery process going? Have tourists returned to contribute to the recovery budget? Hope so. And . . . is it your own website that you are working on to lift your spirits? If so, I can hardly wait.<BR>Affectionately, J.

s

Hello jw and the rest of us!<BR><BR>Good to see you here on a Sunday as well. I so enjoy these artsy walks I get to take with you through the frescoes of Switzerland -- mostly because I’m too much of a philistine to get to them in person (who can leave the lakeside cafes???)<BR><BR>Yes, I’m also eager to see Judi’s trip report. It’s folks like her and you who will probably get me back to the Ticino to see what I did wrong on my only Lugano trip that disappointed me. But I’m not eager to do Ticino real soon -- Engadin first and then maybe the Doubs River area and maybe even another Paris trip and of course lots of returns to Montreux before I hit Ticino/Italian Lakes.<BR><BR>Well yes you can walk to Chillon from Montreux; in fact, the promenade (11 km) goes from Villeneuve to the outskirts of Clarens. At Clarens the promenade disappears to make way for some lakeside villas but at La Tour-de-Peilz it goes back to the lake. I’ve walked it many times, though usually in sections. I think, in my old age, I’ll be doing it on bicycle! The cafes tend to disappear on both sides of Territet, and you’ll see La Terrasses du Pavillon as just about the only caf&eacute; for a while (as best I recall). Then there are none again until you hit Villeneuve, after Chillon.<BR><BR>As a funny story, there is a small, tiny little dock and rocky access to the lake and a tabac shack near that caf&eacute; in Territet. When my sister and I were at boarding school, we used to sneak down to that shack and buy cigarettes (Stuyvesants!) and smoke them furtively, trying to be grown up and chic and cosmo. I love to sit and stare at that shack and try to see our little ghosts there.<BR><BR>Ingo, I can’t wait to see that comprehensive website!<BR><BR>Hope everyone is well this Sunday.<BR><BR>s<BR>

Ingo

Jw, I heard about that Hurricane – and my prayers were with you. Please, tell us more about the devastation! Regarding life in the villages along the Elbe valley – it is still much work to do. Recovery process is going on, which brings employment for many people. Unfortunately tourists stayed away. Only a very few visited, although there are almost no restrictions anymore.<BR><BR>Yes, I am working on my own website. But I am still in the very beginning, so you will have to wait a couple of months to see it. My intention is to create a non-commercial travel site about Switzerland (especially Engadine) and my home region around Dresden. Actually I am working on the German version. Because of my rather poor English I am still seeking someone for a translation …<BR><BR>I think Judi is now on the way back to the States. Let’s hope she will post a trip report (and photos) soon.<BR><BR>I did not get off the boat in Cannero Riviera if I recall right (it’s been some years ago). I hope your next visit is planned soon! And let us know how you liked it!<BR><BR>A short note about the promenade to Chillon: I must admit I did not like the part between Territet/Veytaux and Chillon (Remember that I stayed at Hotel Masson right in Veytaux). Too much traffic on the nearby railroads. The trains are so noisy! It is good for cycling (only a few minutes), but I would prefer the boat or bus for this part of the promenade. <BR><BR>Have a nice Sunday all!<BR><BR>Ingo<BR><BR>PS: Today I was totally surprised when I looked out of the window after getting up 8 am: 10 cm snow! In the plains! I had to hurry to change the tyres of the car before driving to my indoor tennis match!<BR>

Ingo

s, sorry, I did not press the refresh button before posting.<BR><BR>Funny little story! These stories and memories are what makes me going back to so many places again and again.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Grasshopper

Hello to you all. I have an anecdote to add from the week. I received an email resume from a Scientist in Zurich with an Italian name. He grew up in Bellinzona and while his PhD was earned in Zurich he had worked professionally for a time in Bellizona as well. When I responded I added that "on a personal note, I had just had the priviledge of visiting his city". He replied rather quickly (email is an incredible tool!) with great pride about his city and with some amazement that someone from Silicon Valley would find their way there. <BR><BR>I too am really looking forward to Judi's report.

Judi

I had a wonderful two weeks in Ticino, Switzerland! I was very happy with the Untour experience and will address that in another thread. Ascona is a pretty little town and I was glad to have chosen it, thanks to the advice of s.<BR><BR>The weather was perfect, sunny and warm. I had two overcast days, the day of my arrival and the day of my departure. <BR><BR>I got my money's worth out of my Swiss Pass. I was on a bus and/or train every day exploring my surroundings. I went to Bellinzona on Saturday market day and thought it was a charming town. Locarno only served as a bus/train station for me. Lugano was my shopping city and the place to board the boats on Lake Lugano.<BR><BR>I took the bus to Fusio at the end of the line in the Valle Maggia. Another beautiful ride was to Sonogno at the end of Val Verzasca. The stone houses with stone roofs using no mortar were fascinating. <BR><BR>The Centovalli train to Domodossola is also a beautiful ride. Unfortunately I went on a Monday and Domodossola was closed up tight. I had lunch and returned to Locarno.<BR><BR>One Sunday Ascona held their Chestnut Festival. It was a fun day with a marching band, baton twirlers, booths and of course free bags of roasted chestnuts for those willing to stand in line. Situated around the town were small bands of middle aged to senior men<BR>consisting of an accordion, tuba and at least one other instrument... perhaps a guitar, trombone or trumpet. As soon as one band would get out of earshot another could be heard. There were also groups of singers. It was a typical small town celebration and a lot of people attended.<BR><BR>Grasshopper, I never did take the bike trip from Camedo to Ponte Brolla but some of my new best friends did. They took the main road which they thought was a little hairy at times. Is that the only way to go?

Judi

I took the Palm Express post bus from Lugano to St. Moritz. I had the perfect seat, directly behind the driver. I could see the looks of terror on tourists driving rental cars trying to get over to let the large bus pass in the little towns along Lake Como. The streets were very narrow with walls on either side and there was no place to go. I saw several cars crunch their passenger side view mirrors into the walls and I'm sure they lost some paint as well. The Italian drivers, on the other hand, would claim their side of the road and exchange hand gestures with the driver. It was a great trip. <BR><BR>I stayed at the Hotel Garni Chesa Mulin in Pontresina and was happy with it. It is in a convenient location to get to the bus and train stations. I called from Ascona a few days before to make reservations. I paid 120 CHF/nt including breakfast.<BR><BR>I woke up in Pontresina to a cloudy day. I walked around the town waiting for the sun to burn off the clouds. It began to get chillier and cloudier. I saw the horse drawn wagons; one was almost filled with passengers and ready to leave. I asked where it was going and the price. I didn't understand the driver other than the cost, which was 16 CHF one way and 26 CHF return trip. As I didn't know where I was going I paid for one way. We rode for more than an hour up the valley accompanied by the driver's two big dogs. We ended our journey at a hotel-restaurant. By this time it was cold and misty so I had a cup of tea at the restaurant and then told the man I wanted a ride back. Naturally all the others on the ride up chose to take the 1 3/4 hour hike back. I noticed on our return that we had traversed the Val Roseg.<BR><BR>It was raining by the time we returned to Pontresina so I went to Kochendorfer's to have nut cake and a cappuccino in honor of Ingo. Good choice, Ingo!<BR><BR>I went to Museum Alpin and spent awhile there. It was interesting and also warm and dry. <BR><BR>I then got on the post bus and told the driver I just wanted to ride. I went all the way to Corvatsch, through Silvaplana which looked like a nice little town. I thought of stopping in St. Moritz but it looked dead and besides it was raining. Most of the time I was the only passenger on the bus.<BR><BR>I don't speak German and didn't have a phrase book with me (what was I thinking?) so at dinner I had to resort to looking around and gesturing, "I"ll have what he is having."

Judi

The third day I boarded the Bernina Express in Pontresina. I had discovered that the ticket person in Locarno had booked me on the wrong train when I checked at the bahnhof the previous day so I was issued a new ticket. I was assigned seat #11 which turned out to be the handicapped seat, a single seat with lots of leg room. The other seats were two facing two. It was a glorious day, sunny with a beautiful blue sky smattered with fluffy white clouds. <BR><BR>Ingo suggested getting off at Poschiavo in a beautiful valley but I had to connect with the bus from Tirano to Lugano and didn't have time. Many people did get off there. <BR><BR>I had little expections of Tirano but perhaps the sun helped its looks, as it wasn't as gloomy as I had anticipated. I ate at one of the outdoor cafes near the train station, Sale e Pepe. Every voice I heard at the tables was speaking German. The server handed me a German menu. I asked him in my meager Italian if I could have an Italian menu. Obviously I was not fluent in Italian so he said he would tell me the menu in English. He returned at the end of my meal to ask where I was from and to name the states that he knew. He was very cordial, quite unlike the unfriendly people that Ingo encountered. I had a big pizza and a bottle of water for E 5.50.<BR><BR>The bus to Lugano was much more mellow and less interesting than the Palm Express.. I was assigned a seat towards the back but as there were no more than a dozen people on the bus I asked to sit in the first row and the driver didn't care.<BR><BR>The train from Lugano to Locarno is about an hour's ride and the bus from Locarno to Ascona is about fifteen minutes; I was in transit most of the day.

Judi

My last night was spent in Zurich at a little jewel of a hotel, the Pension St. Josef, about a five minute walk from the bahnhof. I enjoyed walking around the old town visiting churches and walking to the lake. I had a pleasant meal at the crowded Blockhus.<BR><BR>The following morning I shared a cab with a delightful couple I met at the hotel . She is German, he is English, they live in London and were going to Moscow.<BR><BR>I was happy with Swiss (airline). The attendants were very nice and the food<BR>was better than most airline food in my opinion. During the flight home we were fed chocolates, aperitifs and snacks, dinner, wine and more wine, ice cream , a sandwich, cookies and fruit. It seemed that they were constantly coming down the aisles with baskets of goodies. I had interesting seat mates on my flights, both young men. One was Greek and the other was Russian. <BR><BR>I loved Ticino but I will choose another part of Switzerland next time. I think I have seen and done most of what I wanted to do in Ticino.<BR><BR>If you go I recommend the book, Landmark<BR>Visitors Guide, Ticino, Switzerland. I would be happy to loan you my copy if you are going. My real e-mail address is pj2592. <BR><BR>Thanks, Support Group, for all of your help in planning my days.

Kasey

Still here, although swamped with pre-trip preparations. I leave Wednesday, and can hardly stand the anticipation!<BR>K

Ingo

I am very busy at the moment and am glad that I finally found the time to read Judi's report. A ray of sunlight on a cloudy day.<BR><BR>I am very sorry that you had so bad weather in Pontresina. What a pity that you did not stay a day longer! Where did you have your dinner? I am surprised the staff did not speak English.<BR><BR>I am glad to read you enjoyed Ticino. It is also one of my favourite places and I am planning to go to Ascona with my tennis team in spring.<BR><BR>What excursions did you exactly do? More details, please, I am anxious to know more!<BR><BR>Kasey, have a great trip. I am afraid the weather gods are not with you, but I am sure you will make the best out of it.<BR><BR>Regards Ingo

jw

Hi! So much to read since October 13's postings! You people really are a delight. I'll say it again and again, being almost home-bound as caregiver is made bearable by these little escapes to read your travel tales and even the bits about your daily lives. I check in from time to time, but was not able to read Judi's epistle thoroughly until this morning with my coffee and my Swiss map in hand. Thank you Judi!<BR><BR>Like Ingo, I'd love to read a bit more about your bus trips into the Valle Maggia and the Val Verzasca. You'll recall that I'm the coward who road the bus into the Onsernone valley with my eyes closed. I'm determined to try again if you'd care to elaborate on the towns you passed through. (Like you, I get more than my money's worth out of a Swiss Pass.) Another quick ques.--what do you mean when you say that the bus ride back from Tirano to Lugano was more mellow than the Palm Express in the other direction? Did it follow the same route? <BR><BR>Enjoyed the exchange about walking the shore to Chillon, too, 11 km is a bit much for me, but I'll give the Territet/Chillon stroll a look next time. However, it will have to be really special to compete with the vineyard walks -- I'm absolutely wild about them. Days are passing, S', and your time is coming quickly -- isn't the anticipation a treat?<BR><BR>Only a quick note about Hurricane Lili, Ingo, because I think most are not so interested -- New Iberia is recovering mostly from extensive damage from trees falling on houses and electric lines. Many of our school families were w/o power for a week. A number are living w/relatives while house damage is repaired. Numerous roofs were blown off. Smaller towns between New Iberia and the gulf were flooded by the surge as the storm came onshore -- those are the places with the greatest suffering, because in many instances levees prevent the water from rushing away as quickly as it arrived. The sugarcane fields are flattened; however, I understand that there is new machinery which can manage a harvest even in that instance. (I imagine that the cost to the farmers must be far greater than a normal harvest, but I certainly am not an authority.) At any rate, we were fortunate that the hurricane lost some of its power just before making landfall. (It is thought that this was because a smaller storm, Isidore, had followed the same route just before, and it took some of the warmth out of the gulf waters.) If it had remained at full strength, there would have been many lives lost. <BR>Bye for now, affectionately, J.<BR><BR><BR>

jw

Good morning. Is it raining everywhere? Is anyone in Switzerland today? If so, paint a word picture for us, please. Yesterday driving my backroad shortcut through the fog, I passed a cluster of harvesting machines in a canefield. They looked like prehistoric creatures. I could smell the moist earth, and white egrets had gathered around to see what had been disturbed. This is just to remind myself that there are aesthetic pleasures to be found in one's own backyard. Ahhh, but it's not the same. J.

Grasshopper

Good morning JW, and everyone else. It's actually going to be nice here today (SF Bay) and of course we are all excitedly waiting for the first pitch of the game during which the Giants will kick Angel butt. <BR><BR>JW, I love the way you find the beauty and specialness of your surroundings. I know you must yearn for your balcony overlooking Lago Maggiore. You'll be there again before you know it.<BR><BR>S, only a few more weeks!

Jan

Hi all,<BR>I jsut had to 'brag' about the weather hre in Luzern. The Foehn is in, a strong wind from the south. Absolutely beautiful with warmish weather (about 65 degrees). The mountains were clear, clouds scudding about and there is an energy in the air. Many Swiss think that this wind brings bad moods, headaches etc. But I LOVE it! Hopefuly, it will hold through tomorrow. Cheers to all,<BR>Jan

jw

Hi Grasshopper. A friend of mine just returned from SF and the Sonoma valley. He fell in love w/both. Jan! Thank you! So what are you cooking for supper or dinner as the case may be? Here it's red beans and rice with sausage and German beer. (fyi, I'm the only one indulging in a brew -- it's another one of the ways I travel w/o leaving home.) Guess what -- it's still raining. J.