Day 4-Today our destination was Doolin. We drove through the Burren. Stark and pretty, but not as impressive as I thought it would be. The famous dolman was surrounded by 3 bus loads of tourists plus the cars parked on the side of the road created a parking lot.
Up the road a bit we took a death(collision)defying drive up a oneway lane in search of an ancient stone cairn which we found on a 1/2 mile mile hike up a hill.
We got to our B&B, Doonmacfelim, checked in and went to the music store to pick up some CD"s for the drive,on to the Cliffs of Moher, only 8km away. We walked up the "safe" side of the cliffs, stunning. The coast guard kept people from going over the stone fence to the "dangerous" private property side. A helicopter and rescue boat kept circling, but we didn't hear about anyone falling/jumping. It started to sprinkle, our first Irish rain, so we headed for the gift shop. After a short while, the sun was out and we headed back up for another look.
The guards were gone, so we hopped over the fence for a closer look. The cliffs keep drawing you closer to the edge. This is the best viewing side and has the famous platform for going to the edge. I finally gave Chip permission to crawl out and peek over, he said that it was an awesome experience.
We had a drink at McDermott's and McGann's, then walked to the famous Gus O'Connor's. We ate there so we could get a good seat for the session. We were joined by a German couple and another American couple. We had a great time sharing travel stories. The session consisted of a bunch of locals, 2 tourists, and a transplanted English ballad singer. It was well after midnight when we decided to walk back to the B&B. In the dark night we could hear the soft sounds of the ocean, beautiful end to a really fun evening.

Day 5-After breakfast we drove to Doolin's harbor for scenic views of the Aran Islands and the back side of the cliffs; you can see the cliff tower from here. This is where you can get a boat to view under the cliffs or go out to the islands.
We headed inland to Ennis to Custy's music shop where Chip drooled over the bodhran selection, but we settled for a couple CD's. We toured the Ennis Friary. It is sad, but our great thrill was using the automatic, self-cleaning public toilet.
We went to Bunratty and shopped at the woolen mills. Disappointed in Durty Nelly's, Chip's Guiness was skunky and after a long wait, it turned out that the server delivered our food to another table, and they ate it! We got a refund and left.
The locals suggested Brogan's Pub for dinner. Luck was with us, a session started at 8 and very nice. We pub crawled on to Cruise's. The half ten,9:30, session started at 10. We stayed a little outside of town so made an early night of it.

Day 6-Woke to our first "soft day". Left B&B, Cill Eoinn and caught the ferry from Killimer to Tarbert.
The sun came out as we passed Tralee. Didn't see the rose but plenty of diversion signs as the special Olympic torch was going through town. We think they are following us! The diversion put us on a long one lane road, good thing we followed a big truck that cleared the path for us.
It was cloudy, so we skipped the Connor Pass.
Stopped at the ruins of Castle Mainard. Saw the results of Cromwell's work in destruction of the foundation walls. The beach below was filled with cigarlike boulders shaped by the surf.
Got to our B&B in Dingle, O Coileain's.
Took the boat ride to see Fungi, the local dolphin. You can't help getting into the fun of it, but couldn't catch Fungi on film, so we bought the postcard.
This evening a pub crawl was in order. Chip had to keep up his whiskey tour; so far Tullomore Dew is still #1, then Paddy's, then Bushmill's, with Power's way back. Went to John Benny's for dinner and music, Eillis Kennedy who is a famous local with a CD. Nice but too quiet.
Crawling on we stopped at Murphy's to hear a group called Shananigans. It was packed, squished our way back to the music room in time to hear "Wild Rover". Chip saved the day by teaching everyone the clapping part-4,2,1. Chip went to get us a pint and I spied a couple leaving and hurried over to grab us a spot right next to the music. The two couples at the table were a combination of Scottish, Welsh, and English. A great fun loving bunch. We drank, talked, laughed, and sang well passed last call and closing. They finally had to make us leave. One of those nights that you don't want to end.
Tonight we learned that "Take Me Home Country Roads" is known world round, everyone sand along.
The talk came around to 911, and had one of many experiences of Europeans sharing their thoughts and feelings, they often compare it to the Kennedy assasination...the Irish love Kennedy. It just so happened that the anniversary of his visit was during our trip and there was a lot of coverage, celebration, and people talking about it as though it was happening today.

Just a note to say how much I enjoyed your feedback. Souds like you had a great time. +D>

Day 7-Wasted most of the morning waiting on tours that kept getting cancelled because not enough people. Chip wanted to get a reprieve from driving.

We did get to shop a little. Chip bought an Irish historical trilogy at the bookstore and a very cool black skinned bodhran from a local woman that makes them in a small little shop.

The day had started out quite gray, but soon it was all sunshine. We got out the Rick Steves guide and followed his mile by mile tour around the loop. It turns out that this was one of our favorite drives, so guess we are glad that none of the tours worked out. The drive was easy and the scenery fantastic; almost every inch could be a postcard. Saw the beehive huts up close and learned about the Blasket Islanders. Stopped in a pub on the way for break. The loop took us about 5 hours and that is with just quick stops, the 2 hour tours must just fly by the sites.

Back into Dingle just in time to see a parade for the Special Olympiads. It consisted of a lot of cute Irish school children marching, playing instruments, and dancing and a lot of parents tagging along(much like a small town pararade back home).

Dinner was at the Half Door, our best of the trip. Chip had beef with shiraz sauce and Sue had mussels. We shared a sinfully delicious warm chocolate-chip cheesecake with chocolate and raspberry syrup and fresh cream. On to our pub crawl and after that meal it was a slow crawl! We started at the Small Bridge. The trio consisted of a guitar, pipes/whistle, and a drummer with a setup to rival Riverdance; unfortunately they weren't so talented so after a pint we crawled onward. Next stop the Dingle Pub. The loud ballad singer didn't warrant even a half pint so onward we went to O'Flaherty's. It was crowded but it had great trad.and atmosphere, so we stayed and enjoyed another evening of Irish music.

Day 8-Today we drove the Ring of Kerry. It is pretty, especially from Waterville to Kenmare, but after Dingle it was a bit of a disappointment. Still has beautiful sheep, fuschia, and rocky coastal views.

Stopped at the Blue Bull Pub in Sneem. Chip tried Kilkenny beer, but didn't really care for it.

Checked into Rockcrest House and walked down the hill into town, which turned out to be a lot closer than it looked. After walking around Kenmare and enjoying the Fleadh Cheoil, music festival, we dined at the Lime Tree; supposeldy one of the best in town but not in our book. Had an Irish coffee, well Chip had the whiskey and Sue had the coffee, at Thady Quill's.

We watched some dancers and a band from Cork at the outdoor festival. We went to the Square Pint where for a pint. Since the band that was to start at 10 was still enjoying their pints at the bar at 11, we decided to head up the dark hill to our B&B, enjoying the music from the festival below.

Day 9-Halfway point. Another early breakfast and we were on our way to Muckross through the Killarney National Park. You can almost see the fairies and a leprechaun or two beneath the crooked trees of this enchanted forest, mountain, and lake setting. Muckross House and the grounds are gorgeous, don't miss it and the drive through the park.

Up the road is the Abbey which is well preserved and has nice high crosses. The Texans there probably thought Chip was nuts when I made him sing some Latin chants as we walked through the cloisters.

Chip likened Killarney to Dollywood...with the traffic jams and the cabaret like adverts. Didn't stop.

We drove on to Kate Kearny's Cottage where Chip enjoyed some Irish stew; on the way the jaunting car drivers actually try to block the road and you nearly have to run over them to continue. Next we had a nice tour of Ross Castle. Back through the park to Kenmare.

Stopped at Mick Ned's to split an appetizer which was very good , too full from lunch to eat dinner(should have had dinner here yesterday!). Mickey is a former champion soccer player and coach. Note: the pubs here look more modern/newer (or just different)-long,no snugs, lighter wood, flat screen tv's, designer type straight lines. Walked around, had dessert at the Coachman; Sue had Banofee Pie, which has been on several menus, which has a crumb crust with toffee, bananas, and cream. We ran into American tourists that we met in Doolin. We went to Bold Thady Quill's to get a good seat for the evening's music.

Watched the opening ceremonies for the Special Olympics on TV with U2, the Corrs, Arnold S., the Irish pres., and many celebrities. This was really a big deal here. Every team had a town sponsor them. There were signs and decorations in each host town. There was daily TV and radio updates and coverage. They got the first class treatment everywhere. As a special education teacher it was quite touching to see how the Irish embraced these special athletes (It was very sad to hear that at home no one even knew it was taking place).

The musicians, a guitar player and button box player, played tunes and sang songs, some new and some familiar. We enjoyed them so much we bought their CD-Murphy's Men. We were also entertained by a cat/mouse bachelorette party...quite the dancers.
Caught the end of the Fleadh Cheol on our way back to the B&B. Resisted the temptation to celebrate the summer solstice at the nearby Druid Circle.

Chip, thanks for posting! We're going to Ireland next year, so I'm taking notes!

Day 10-Went to Mass at Holy Cross,back to the B&B to pack and have breakfast.

Stopped at the Druid Circle and found a couple sacked out behind the stone, must have enjoyed celebrating the summer solstice!

On the way to Kinsale we stopped at Drombeg Stone Circle and enjoyed the views of Bantry Bay. We took a break in Clonakilty after driving out to see the remains of Michael Collin's home.

It was a beautiful sunny day and Kinsale was very crowded. We made our way up another very narrow road and toured Charles Fort, interesting tour and we ran into an American couple,again, that we met in Doolin (and Kenmare). After a couple of wrong turns, which we are getting quite used to, we found our B&B, O'Donovan's. Great location, our host Michael was helpful/nice, but loud at night. On Michael's suggestion we ate at Jim Edward's which turned out to be the "best meal for the money" of our trip. After we walked around the harbour, we turned in early. Watched the European version of Big Brother and "enjoyed" the music from the popular pub across the street as we tried to rest up for an early start in the am.

Day 11-Up early and headed for the Blarndy Woolen Mills Gift Shop-oops, I mean Blarney Castle. Had a nice warm scone with cream and a pot of jam. Chip walked up to the castle and I shopped.

Chip reports that the castle was huge and the grounds were nice. Sue reports that it is best not to think about the horrible exchange rate when they total up your puchases-ouch.

Drove thru Cork to the Midleton Distillery. Luck out again with a tour leaving just as we arrived. Chip got picked (his was the first hand up!) to do the whiskey taste testing which was fun. Decided it would be a good idea to have a bite to eat before getting on the road after all the sampling. Chip still likes Tullamore Dew the best, then Paddy's, Jameson, Bushmill's, and Power's.

After a few purchases we drove to Cobh. St. Colman's Cathedral is a must see. Took the ferry crossing and back to Kinsale. Dinner at The Little Skillet, OK.
Went to the Tap Tavern for a pint and to catch the Ghost Tour. This tiny, worn pub has a picture wall with people like Fergie and astronauts (matter of fact a spaceshuttle astronaut in a picture on the wall came in while we were there!). While not scary in the least, the Ghost Tour was entertaining.

Day 12-The easiest drive of the trip was to Cahir Castle. Learned a lot about castle defenses. Loved the Swiss Cottage. I took a lot of pics and notes so Chip can build me a miniature cottage in the backyard when we get home!

The Rock of Cashel is an impressive sight as you enter the town. After a quick stop in at the Bru Boru Music Center for info about the evening's performance, we toured The Rock of Cashel;interesting ruins and high crosses.

Checked in at Rockville House B&B. Dinner at Pasta Milano's and dessert across the street at Hanigans, wicked good chocolate cake.

For the evening we had a great time at the Bru Boru Centre's Comhaltas Music Show, highly recommended. Chip got to sing at the session afterwards and we enjoyed chatting with the musicians/singers.

Day 13-Had an entertaining breakfast courtesy of the room full of non-English speaking French tourists and the funniest host of the trip, Patrick. I would return there just for his clever banter which he obviously inherited from his lovely mother.

Kilkenny was not the quaint medieval town we expected, but the castle was well restored and the grounds were nice. The highlight of the day was the trip to Jerpoint Abbey. We got to see a thatched roof being put up on the way. The guide at the abbey was the most informative of the trip, another must see; neat carvings, tombs, history. We needed a nap after navigating the confusing streets of the not so quaint town. Took a walk around the castle grounds and enjoyed real cream, ice-cream with sweet raspberry syrup over top and a chocolate waffer they put in the ice-cream. Dinner at Langton's was good, the dining room windows are dazzeling. We had fun chatting with the bartenders at the Hibernian Pub across from our B&B/more like a hotel, Berkeley House. One of them even new Hang on Sloopy(Ohio State's honorary song).