Strange trip report on my trip to Spain.
Apr 24th, 2012 | 07:48 PM
#61
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,694
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<<As I was chopping strawberries for my bran flakes, I was thinking that one reason I like writing trip reports is that they fix memories that I would otherwise lose. I can come back in future times and remember my experience in somewhat the same way as looking at my album of photos.>>
This is the same for me Peg. The trip reports are as much for me as for anyone else who may read them.
Still very much enjoying your report.
This is the same for me Peg. The trip reports are as much for me as for anyone else who may read them.
Still very much enjoying your report.
Apr 24th, 2012 | 10:12 PM
#62
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,536
Likes: 4
What a delicious read, Peg, I'm enjoying your trip enormously!
I was in Granada at Easter '09 with Lavici, who posts here occasionally, and we were lucky enough to be at a restaurant on the way to the Albaicin when one of the Semana Santa processions went right past. It was a magical experience and later as we walked back to our lodging, the strains of the music wafted through the city on the night air.
I was in Granada at Easter '09 with Lavici, who posts here occasionally, and we were lucky enough to be at a restaurant on the way to the Albaicin when one of the Semana Santa processions went right past. It was a magical experience and later as we walked back to our lodging, the strains of the music wafted through the city on the night air.
Apr 25th, 2012 | 02:29 PM
#63
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Joined: May 2003
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Bokhara: Semana Santa in Málaga has really been an unforgettable experience.
By the way, in the gift shop, I did buy a CD of the boys' music, which is quite beautiful. I also had some of that wonderful Spanish coffee and a pastry. Yum! I was surprised that I didn't gain any weight after all those pastries I ate.
I'm in this long line, I have climbed two sets of stairs, and I finally see the object of all this queuing--La Moreneta (the Black Virgin), the patron saint of Catalonia. The statue is enclosed in a glass case, with only a globe that she is holding outside the case. The general idea is to touch the globe, which takes maybe half a second, but I guess it gives you a connection with the Virgin. I did say a quickie prayer for an intention I pray for every chance I think of it.
When I left that area, I looked for a candle to light. When we were traveling together, my sister Mary and I developed a custom of lighting a candle for our younger sister Kitty, who died too young, so that she would be with us on our travels. I saw some arrays of candles but for some reason wasn't able to light one.
After seeing the Virgin, I went to look at the basilica, which is gorgeous. I was disappointed when I looked at the pictures I took of it because only one was relatively decent, and I had deleted the others.
There is a museum with a collection of ecclesiastical paintings by various famous artists, but having visited every museum in the western world for the past forty years, I gave it a pass. I do regret not seeing the ancient artifacts in the museum, especially the 2000-year-old crocodile mummy.
By the way, in the gift shop, I did buy a CD of the boys' music, which is quite beautiful. I also had some of that wonderful Spanish coffee and a pastry. Yum! I was surprised that I didn't gain any weight after all those pastries I ate.
I'm in this long line, I have climbed two sets of stairs, and I finally see the object of all this queuing--La Moreneta (the Black Virgin), the patron saint of Catalonia. The statue is enclosed in a glass case, with only a globe that she is holding outside the case. The general idea is to touch the globe, which takes maybe half a second, but I guess it gives you a connection with the Virgin. I did say a quickie prayer for an intention I pray for every chance I think of it.
When I left that area, I looked for a candle to light. When we were traveling together, my sister Mary and I developed a custom of lighting a candle for our younger sister Kitty, who died too young, so that she would be with us on our travels. I saw some arrays of candles but for some reason wasn't able to light one.
After seeing the Virgin, I went to look at the basilica, which is gorgeous. I was disappointed when I looked at the pictures I took of it because only one was relatively decent, and I had deleted the others.
There is a museum with a collection of ecclesiastical paintings by various famous artists, but having visited every museum in the western world for the past forty years, I gave it a pass. I do regret not seeing the ancient artifacts in the museum, especially the 2000-year-old crocodile mummy.
Apr 27th, 2012 | 01:44 PM
#64
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
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I have a history of not finishing my trip report, so I'm going to finish this one if it kills me.
My last morning in Barcelona, my alarm didn't go off, for some reason, so I was in a big hurry to get to the train to Madrid for my last night, as I'd bought my ticket online and wasn't sure whether I could use it on a later train. It turned out okay, though.
In Madrid I checked in at Hotel Europa again and then headed out to see the only museum I visited in Spain on this trip. (I'd visited the Prado a couple of times, the Thyssen, and the Reina Sofia on previous trips, so don't think I'm a Philistine!) I was looking forward to visiting the National Archaeological Museum.
Ironically, in 2000 I had stayed across the street from this museum for a month, but didn't think to visit it.
I had read a couple of books about Spanish history, and I found it fascinating, especially the early history--the arrival of the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Visigoths, the Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Moors. I love history, and that of Spain is especially interesting. I really wanted to see artifacts of these times. Most of all I wanted to see the statue known as the Lady of Elche.
So I braved the metro (2 lines), then walked for a while. Excited about seeing the exhibits, I turned the corner leading to the entrance and saw (another aaargh!) that the museum was closed for renovation.
I went back to my hotel and sulked.
The next morning I took a taxi to Atocha, where I caught the bus to Barajas. Easy peasy. I like this lots better than taking the metro, since it goes directly to the airport, and I don't have to change metro lines, hauling my luggage up interminable stairs. It was cheap, too. I think 2 euros.
The flight to Philadelphia was uneventful. As I stood in line at passport control, I saw a sign I've never noticed before. It was a warning about what would happen if you tried to threaten or intimidate a passport control officer. It may have included other airport or TSA employees. Amazing!
I had to pick up my suitcase from the baggage carousel and go through customs, since we were now in the U.S. I am pretty sure it was quick and easy, because I don't remember doing it.
As I walked through the terminal, I saw white wooden rocking chairs distributed along the center of the aisles. What a good idea! You could sit down and rock while you waited. When I began the trip, I had 2 passes for the United lounge, but somewhere along the way, I lost the unused one, so I sat and rocked for a while.
Once I got to Philadelphia, it dawned on me that I had a five-hour layover. As I waited, I noticed that there was an earlier flight to Seattle that I could have taken, but when I asked the customer service people, they said that wasn't possible, because my luggage wouldn't be on that flight.
Turns out they were wrong. When I got to baggage claim in Seattle, my suitcase wasn't on the carousel. It was at the baggage claim office, because it had arrived on an earlier flight--probably the one I'd wanted to take.
Note to self: Don't let those mileage plus reservation people give you bad layovers.
The flight home was filled with junior high students who'd been to Washington, D.C., but there were some empty seats. The flight attendant came by and told me there were three empty seats in the back, and I could stretch out there and get some sleep, which I did.
Actually, there is a good side to this late flight to Seattle. When I was on the train going me to my gate, a Japanese woman who apparently spoke no English, wanted to know if this was the correct terminal. She seemed very apprehensive.She showed me her boarding pass with the letter N on it, and I pointed to the scrolling that identified the gate as N and nodded my head yes. I think I even said "Hai," the way the Japanese do--that's about half the vocabulary that I remember from 2 years in Japan. It felt good to reassure her that she was in the right place.
Then a Mexican woman saw that I was trying to help the Japanese lady because she came to me and indicated that she needed help. She spoke no English, so I told her in Spanish that this was the correct gate, but that her plane for Houston had been delayed for a couple of hours. Then a Mexican man joined us with the same problem. They both had connecting flights that they would miss, and they were panicky. I went to the counter and explained their plight to the representative there and told her that they didn't speak English.
She wasn't very helpful, as she was swamped changing flights for others who had the same problem. Since she was so busy, I told the man and the woman that I would return in half an hour to help them again, and I went off to have something to eat, figuring that I would find Travelers' Aid or someone to help them. When I returned, the problem had been resolved, as they found other people who spoke Spanish and could help them.
Before this happened, I was thoroughly tired of speaking and listening to Spanish because it's tiring to have to struggle to find the right word in a foreign language or to understand someone who's talking fast. But with this experience I was thrilled that I'd been able to use Spanish to try to help these people and to ease their panic, even though someone else finished what I'd started.
I had known that I would arrive in Seattle too late for a flight to Spokane, so after I got my luggage, I called the Red Lion Hotel near SeaTac, and their van came and picked me up. I hereby vow that any time I need a hotel, I will stay in a Red Lion. That bed was amazing! Big soft pillows, comfy mattress, and cotton duvet cover on the comforter. It was so cozy! I felt like I'd died and gone to heaven.
When I got home, I thought, "Well, that's done. No more Spain," and I began thinking about going to eastern Germany or Slovenia and Croatia. But then....somebody mentioned Bilbao, and I thought about Cuenca again. I understand that Zamora has a memorable Semana Santa also.
Gosh, so little time, so many trips...
My last morning in Barcelona, my alarm didn't go off, for some reason, so I was in a big hurry to get to the train to Madrid for my last night, as I'd bought my ticket online and wasn't sure whether I could use it on a later train. It turned out okay, though.
In Madrid I checked in at Hotel Europa again and then headed out to see the only museum I visited in Spain on this trip. (I'd visited the Prado a couple of times, the Thyssen, and the Reina Sofia on previous trips, so don't think I'm a Philistine!) I was looking forward to visiting the National Archaeological Museum.
Ironically, in 2000 I had stayed across the street from this museum for a month, but didn't think to visit it.
I had read a couple of books about Spanish history, and I found it fascinating, especially the early history--the arrival of the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Visigoths, the Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Moors. I love history, and that of Spain is especially interesting. I really wanted to see artifacts of these times. Most of all I wanted to see the statue known as the Lady of Elche.
So I braved the metro (2 lines), then walked for a while. Excited about seeing the exhibits, I turned the corner leading to the entrance and saw (another aaargh!) that the museum was closed for renovation.
I went back to my hotel and sulked.
The next morning I took a taxi to Atocha, where I caught the bus to Barajas. Easy peasy. I like this lots better than taking the metro, since it goes directly to the airport, and I don't have to change metro lines, hauling my luggage up interminable stairs. It was cheap, too. I think 2 euros.
The flight to Philadelphia was uneventful. As I stood in line at passport control, I saw a sign I've never noticed before. It was a warning about what would happen if you tried to threaten or intimidate a passport control officer. It may have included other airport or TSA employees. Amazing!
I had to pick up my suitcase from the baggage carousel and go through customs, since we were now in the U.S. I am pretty sure it was quick and easy, because I don't remember doing it.
As I walked through the terminal, I saw white wooden rocking chairs distributed along the center of the aisles. What a good idea! You could sit down and rock while you waited. When I began the trip, I had 2 passes for the United lounge, but somewhere along the way, I lost the unused one, so I sat and rocked for a while.
Once I got to Philadelphia, it dawned on me that I had a five-hour layover. As I waited, I noticed that there was an earlier flight to Seattle that I could have taken, but when I asked the customer service people, they said that wasn't possible, because my luggage wouldn't be on that flight.
Turns out they were wrong. When I got to baggage claim in Seattle, my suitcase wasn't on the carousel. It was at the baggage claim office, because it had arrived on an earlier flight--probably the one I'd wanted to take.
Note to self: Don't let those mileage plus reservation people give you bad layovers.
The flight home was filled with junior high students who'd been to Washington, D.C., but there were some empty seats. The flight attendant came by and told me there were three empty seats in the back, and I could stretch out there and get some sleep, which I did.
Actually, there is a good side to this late flight to Seattle. When I was on the train going me to my gate, a Japanese woman who apparently spoke no English, wanted to know if this was the correct terminal. She seemed very apprehensive.She showed me her boarding pass with the letter N on it, and I pointed to the scrolling that identified the gate as N and nodded my head yes. I think I even said "Hai," the way the Japanese do--that's about half the vocabulary that I remember from 2 years in Japan. It felt good to reassure her that she was in the right place.
Then a Mexican woman saw that I was trying to help the Japanese lady because she came to me and indicated that she needed help. She spoke no English, so I told her in Spanish that this was the correct gate, but that her plane for Houston had been delayed for a couple of hours. Then a Mexican man joined us with the same problem. They both had connecting flights that they would miss, and they were panicky. I went to the counter and explained their plight to the representative there and told her that they didn't speak English.
She wasn't very helpful, as she was swamped changing flights for others who had the same problem. Since she was so busy, I told the man and the woman that I would return in half an hour to help them again, and I went off to have something to eat, figuring that I would find Travelers' Aid or someone to help them. When I returned, the problem had been resolved, as they found other people who spoke Spanish and could help them.
Before this happened, I was thoroughly tired of speaking and listening to Spanish because it's tiring to have to struggle to find the right word in a foreign language or to understand someone who's talking fast. But with this experience I was thrilled that I'd been able to use Spanish to try to help these people and to ease their panic, even though someone else finished what I'd started.
I had known that I would arrive in Seattle too late for a flight to Spokane, so after I got my luggage, I called the Red Lion Hotel near SeaTac, and their van came and picked me up. I hereby vow that any time I need a hotel, I will stay in a Red Lion. That bed was amazing! Big soft pillows, comfy mattress, and cotton duvet cover on the comforter. It was so cozy! I felt like I'd died and gone to heaven.
When I got home, I thought, "Well, that's done. No more Spain," and I began thinking about going to eastern Germany or Slovenia and Croatia. But then....somebody mentioned Bilbao, and I thought about Cuenca again. I understand that Zamora has a memorable Semana Santa also.
Gosh, so little time, so many trips...
Apr 27th, 2012 | 05:16 PM
#65
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 0
Peg, thanks for persevering to the end of your trip! I completely understand the feeling "so many trips, so little time"
Although the long layovers can be boring, it's better than cutting it too close and not making it!
Are you going to post any pictures? Pretty please--with sugar on it!
Although the long layovers can be boring, it's better than cutting it too close and not making it!
Are you going to post any pictures? Pretty please--with sugar on it!
Apr 27th, 2012 | 06:50 PM
#67
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,536
Likes: 4
Thanks Peg! Like you, I'm a better starter than completer of JBRs. And sometimes I don't even get started (lol).
I really enjoy your writing - feels as if we're having a chat over a glass of vino. I'm leaning forward on my chair listening to your "little adventures" as you roar with laughter & detail another side trip
I really enjoy your writing - feels as if we're having a chat over a glass of vino. I'm leaning forward on my chair listening to your "little adventures" as you roar with laughter & detail another side trip
Apr 28th, 2012 | 09:51 AM
#69
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 0
Comments: despite your agonizing over this and that, including sulking, you really did have some wonderful experiences. Especially liked the Catalan Easter events. Reminded me of Easter once in Pisa Cathedral.
Also laughed at your good samaritan acts in the terminal
...realizing how many non-Americans traveling in the U. S. do need a little sympathetic advice. This also applies to bus/subway tourists. Fun report all in all.
Bill in Boston
Also laughed at your good samaritan acts in the terminal
...realizing how many non-Americans traveling in the U. S. do need a little sympathetic advice. This also applies to bus/subway tourists. Fun report all in all.
Bill in Boston
Apr 28th, 2012 | 10:36 AM
#70
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 12,820
Likes: 0
I loved Semana Santa! This was my second trip to Málaga to experience it. But one thing I realized during this trip is that it's better for me to see new places, rather than visit places I've seen before. Obviously I would have enjoyed hearing Escalonia in Montserrat and exploring the archaeological museum in Madrd. Those were disappointments for me. Also I had wanted to go to Aranjuez, but because I left a day late on account of the Lufthansa strike, I had to cut that out.
When I first went to Barcelona and saw the Sagrada Familia and the many other Gaudi buildings or the Palacio Royal and the Prado in Madrid, these things were all new to me and because of that, especially impressive.
I still like just plain walking in Madrid, Barcelona, and Málaga, but I think I will enjoy visiting places I haven't seen before.
When I first went to Barcelona and saw the Sagrada Familia and the many other Gaudi buildings or the Palacio Royal and the Prado in Madrid, these things were all new to me and because of that, especially impressive.
I still like just plain walking in Madrid, Barcelona, and Málaga, but I think I will enjoy visiting places I haven't seen before.
Apr 29th, 2012 | 06:38 AM
#71
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Micheline,
Semana Santa in Andalucía is something very special, and it's much more low-key in the wonderful Basque region.
Other major events up in the Basque region in September. From September 1 to 9 the Euskal Jaiak festival in San Sebastián celebrates all things Basque through food, wine, concerts, performances and sports. Starts on Saturday 1st with Sagardo Eguna (cider day) where some 40-50 of the regions famous sidrerias provide free cider and food in Plaza de la Constitución in the heart of the Parte vieja/Old town. http://www.lacunza.com/events/euskal-jaiak.php
Later in September is the annual film festival, and if you plan on visiting at this time you'll have to book hotel way ahead: http://www.sansebastianfestival.com/in/
Semana Santa in Andalucía is something very special, and it's much more low-key in the wonderful Basque region.
Other major events up in the Basque region in September. From September 1 to 9 the Euskal Jaiak festival in San Sebastián celebrates all things Basque through food, wine, concerts, performances and sports. Starts on Saturday 1st with Sagardo Eguna (cider day) where some 40-50 of the regions famous sidrerias provide free cider and food in Plaza de la Constitución in the heart of the Parte vieja/Old town. http://www.lacunza.com/events/euskal-jaiak.php
Later in September is the annual film festival, and if you plan on visiting at this time you'll have to book hotel way ahead: http://www.sansebastianfestival.com/in/
Apr 29th, 2012 | 09:36 AM
#73
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
I'm hoping you will post your pictures because I loved your report. So many times trips are filled with problems and disappointments, even to a seasoned traveler like yourself, which we try to forget. Your putting it all out there was very refreshing. It felt like you were recounting it to a good friend who would understand and enjoy. Thank you so much!
May 1st, 2012 | 05:23 PM
#74
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,325
Likes: 7
Peg: Enjoyed your report thoroughly, especially the part where you confessed to sulking. I have done the same, but will never admit it!
It appears that we were in Barcelona last month, the same time as you. We visited Montserrat on Easter Monday. Very foggy/cloudy, then the ceiling lifted enough to allow us views from the St. Joan hermitage. Disappointing to learn that the Escolania boys weren't singing at Salve. Overall, Montserrat was a highpoint of our trip (pun intended).
We witnessed the processions at Barcelona Cathedral on Good Friday evening. Three separate groups came together to meet in the plaza. The beat of the drums and the swaying of the pasos filled me with awe and a little fear. Appreciate your explanations about the Nazarenos. They looked quite ominous to us as darkness began to fall. Does the Holy Thursday pardoning of a prisoner symbolize the release of Barabas in the Passion?
Thanks for taking the time to share with us!
It appears that we were in Barcelona last month, the same time as you. We visited Montserrat on Easter Monday. Very foggy/cloudy, then the ceiling lifted enough to allow us views from the St. Joan hermitage. Disappointing to learn that the Escolania boys weren't singing at Salve. Overall, Montserrat was a highpoint of our trip (pun intended).
We witnessed the processions at Barcelona Cathedral on Good Friday evening. Three separate groups came together to meet in the plaza. The beat of the drums and the swaying of the pasos filled me with awe and a little fear. Appreciate your explanations about the Nazarenos. They looked quite ominous to us as darkness began to fall. Does the Holy Thursday pardoning of a prisoner symbolize the release of Barabas in the Passion?
Thanks for taking the time to share with us!
May 2nd, 2012 | 04:22 AM
#75
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Dave_Ohio,
The release of a prisoner during the Semana Santa in Málaga has nothing to do with Barabas. It dates back to the reign of Carlos III (1759-1788) "when prisoners in Málaga, as a protest against the suspension of Easter week processions due to an epidemic, mutinied and broke open the prison doors in order to take their statue of Jesús Nazareno out onto the streets on their shoulders. Once the image was returned to the temple, they all went back to their cells. News of this reached the king, who bestowed upon the image, called 'Jesus the Wealthy' (Jesús El Rico) since then, the privilege of releasing one prisoner each year."
http://www.entertainmentinspain.com/...n%20Malaga.htm
A very serious event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaFX6...eature=related
The release of a prisoner during the Semana Santa in Málaga has nothing to do with Barabas. It dates back to the reign of Carlos III (1759-1788) "when prisoners in Málaga, as a protest against the suspension of Easter week processions due to an epidemic, mutinied and broke open the prison doors in order to take their statue of Jesús Nazareno out onto the streets on their shoulders. Once the image was returned to the temple, they all went back to their cells. News of this reached the king, who bestowed upon the image, called 'Jesus the Wealthy' (Jesús El Rico) since then, the privilege of releasing one prisoner each year."
http://www.entertainmentinspain.com/...n%20Malaga.htm
A very serious event: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaFX6...eature=related
May 2nd, 2012 | 05:51 AM
#76
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,212
Likes: 0
Great report, Peg. I have not been to Spain yet but it's on my list of future places. I'm placing a link to your report in my Spain folder.
I think going to the same place for a second or third time makes for an easier and more comfortable trip but there is excitement in visiting someplace new.
I think going to the same place for a second or third time makes for an easier and more comfortable trip but there is excitement in visiting someplace new.
May 2nd, 2012 | 02:50 PM
#79
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 12,820
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May 2nd, 2012 | 04:46 PM
#80
Original Poster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 12,820
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Dave, when my neighbor girl was looking at my pictures with me, she thought the Nazarenos a little frightening, but it's only in the pictures that there's anything ominous.
What kept the processions from being more dignified or truly solemn was that children kept running out to anyone who carried a lit candle and asking to have candle wax dripped on to the balls of wax they had already collected. Some of the wax balls were baseball-sized. Many children also reached out to shake the hands of those in the processions.
Kimhe: Great video of the processions. With still cameras, of course, one can't show the gentle swaying of the paso or the marching of the legionnaires.
What kept the processions from being more dignified or truly solemn was that children kept running out to anyone who carried a lit candle and asking to have candle wax dripped on to the balls of wax they had already collected. Some of the wax balls were baseball-sized. Many children also reached out to shake the hands of those in the processions.
Kimhe: Great video of the processions. With still cameras, of course, one can't show the gentle swaying of the paso or the marching of the legionnaires.
