stormygirl's Paris trip report- people smiled, we didn't step in poo and there was TP!
May 2nd, 2004, 04:36 PM
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stormygirl's Paris trip report- people smiled, we didn't step in poo and there was TP!
Oh my trip report is late as I was there mid April at the same time with some other Fodorites but here goes anyway!
After arriving in Paris and finding my Paris Shuttle I decided to practice my newly learned French on the driver. I was traveling alone but visiting my friend who lives in the 17th. Our van was completely full so after chatting a bit I slipped him a 5 Euro and said "possibly I'll get dropped off first?" I was at my friend's apartment in no time!! It was 12:30 and she had a split of Vueve waiting. After touring her new apartment we headed to Monteparnesse area for a bite and to check out a hotel for some friends who will be honeymooning this summer.
Wine and croques outside (it must have been at least 75F!) in the sun, across the street was the newest Starbucks- we stayed away. Shopping up the Rue de Rennes as we looked for the Aramis- St- Germain. Lots of fun stores up here, we both picked up some new stuff. Checked out the hotel, very nice, small, a Best Western chain but overpriced IMHO. The sign said 188 E a night in the high season! OUCH!
Back to the apartment to take a nap, phew!!! Then my friend, her roomate and I get dolled up and head to Barlotti for a pre dinner cocktail. Beautiful bar in the 1st, owned by the same people at Buddah Bar. My friends haven't lived in Paris for long so they are checking out all the swank bars and I was happy to help. This one has a bar upstairs looking down on a very impressive dining room. Dramatic. A cocktail and amuse bouche and we were off to meet a gentleman friend who they practice their French with for dinner at my choice- Chez Maitre Paul. YUM!
(continued later!)
After arriving in Paris and finding my Paris Shuttle I decided to practice my newly learned French on the driver. I was traveling alone but visiting my friend who lives in the 17th. Our van was completely full so after chatting a bit I slipped him a 5 Euro and said "possibly I'll get dropped off first?" I was at my friend's apartment in no time!! It was 12:30 and she had a split of Vueve waiting. After touring her new apartment we headed to Monteparnesse area for a bite and to check out a hotel for some friends who will be honeymooning this summer.
Wine and croques outside (it must have been at least 75F!) in the sun, across the street was the newest Starbucks- we stayed away. Shopping up the Rue de Rennes as we looked for the Aramis- St- Germain. Lots of fun stores up here, we both picked up some new stuff. Checked out the hotel, very nice, small, a Best Western chain but overpriced IMHO. The sign said 188 E a night in the high season! OUCH!
Back to the apartment to take a nap, phew!!! Then my friend, her roomate and I get dolled up and head to Barlotti for a pre dinner cocktail. Beautiful bar in the 1st, owned by the same people at Buddah Bar. My friends haven't lived in Paris for long so they are checking out all the swank bars and I was happy to help. This one has a bar upstairs looking down on a very impressive dining room. Dramatic. A cocktail and amuse bouche and we were off to meet a gentleman friend who they practice their French with for dinner at my choice- Chez Maitre Paul. YUM!
(continued later!)
May 2nd, 2004, 08:14 PM
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mvor, haha! the gentleman friend is definately in Paris! On to dinner at Chez Maitre Paul. My now husband and I ate here 2 years ago and loved it. But now it is my suggestion for me, an American ex pat, a Canadian ex pat and a born and bred, still living in Paris Frenchman. Well everyone was happy with the kirs and entrees so we went about ordering amist French lessons and politics. And then our ami said "I'm going to do something unheard of in France! I'm going to let the AMERICAN WOMAN order the the wine!" ha! I know wine! I was honered and we had a wonderful time over the fantastic food of the Jura region & good conversation as you can only have with a spirited mix of people from different countries. BTW, some of us received a fish like spoon with dinner, but it wasn't. No one knew what it was for. Finally our Mr. Paris said "we will use the American to find out!". So they told the waiter that I was a poor American visiting and didn't know proper silver ware and could he explain to me! HA!!!! It was a 'sauce spoon'! So next time you eat out and are unsure of a dish, an ingrediant, an utensil... remember our friend born and bred in Paris who had never come across a sauce spoon! And by the way this is a very well to do attorney Parisian, so don't feel bad.... just ask!!!! 
After dinner, wine, cheese and dessert we head to our Parisian friend's apartment bordering on the 8th and 17th. So interesting to see these splendid apartments! In these grandiose buildings! ahhhhhhhh. We had digestifs (everyone knows what to serve after dinner right??? crazy the manners the people have!) martini rossi, brandy and rums. Finally we head home because tomorrow we are getting up early and taking the train to Reims!!! Yeah!!
p.s. French lesson for the evening. The Metro stop Tuilleries is pronounced Twee- la - ree. We were forced to practice over and over by our friend who repeatidly said we were making it much more difficult......... TWEE- LA - REE!!!
After dinner, wine, cheese and dessert we head to our Parisian friend's apartment bordering on the 8th and 17th. So interesting to see these splendid apartments! In these grandiose buildings! ahhhhhhhh. We had digestifs (everyone knows what to serve after dinner right??? crazy the manners the people have!) martini rossi, brandy and rums. Finally we head home because tomorrow we are getting up early and taking the train to Reims!!! Yeah!!
p.s. French lesson for the evening. The Metro stop Tuilleries is pronounced Twee- la - ree. We were forced to practice over and over by our friend who repeatidly said we were making it much more difficult......... TWEE- LA - REE!!!
May 3rd, 2004, 07:40 AM
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Day 2.... we are all up early to catch our train to Reims! It's another gorgeous day and we grab the metro for Gare de l'Est and buy our tickets for our train. At the station we get croissants and cafe cremes to go (yep, they have to go cups now!). We board our train and "accidently" sit in a first class compartment and start our breakfast. It's only an hour and a half and it's quite a pretty ride. The ticket guy nicely explains that we have to move to a compartment in 2nd class but it's no problem and we find one easily. The train passes through Eperney and our plan is to stop on the way back.
Off the train in Reims we stop for a coffee to plan our day. Then we walk down the main street lined with cafes, pubs, hotels, etc. There is a beautiful fountain and off to the left we spot a gorgeous carosel (sp) in a neighborhood of blossoming cherry trees.
We walk to the catherdral, it is fantastic!!! We spend some time here admiring the gargoyles, the relief sculptures and of course the beautiful stained glass inside. The Chagall windows are just beautiful!!!
After we stroll around the grounds a bit we head for our first appt. at Taittinger. We decided to walk but it's actually quite far and I would suggest catching a bus. We arrive just in time as the last tour for the morning is at noon and it is 12 straight up! There are a few others in our group and we immediately head down into the caves.
WOW! Really magnificiant! We will vote this the best cellar tour all day. They have a cave of original bottlings from the monks (the cave use to be part of a church) and they explain very well about the process of champagne. The racks and racks and racks of magnums is impressive to say the least!!! We go through the bottling area and then to the tasting room. We were given one glass of non vintage which was good but for some reason I thought Tait gave you a flight? Oh well. Picked up a bottle on 1998 which will be very yummy!!!!!!
Off the train in Reims we stop for a coffee to plan our day. Then we walk down the main street lined with cafes, pubs, hotels, etc. There is a beautiful fountain and off to the left we spot a gorgeous carosel (sp) in a neighborhood of blossoming cherry trees.
We walk to the catherdral, it is fantastic!!! We spend some time here admiring the gargoyles, the relief sculptures and of course the beautiful stained glass inside. The Chagall windows are just beautiful!!!
After we stroll around the grounds a bit we head for our first appt. at Taittinger. We decided to walk but it's actually quite far and I would suggest catching a bus. We arrive just in time as the last tour for the morning is at noon and it is 12 straight up! There are a few others in our group and we immediately head down into the caves.
WOW! Really magnificiant! We will vote this the best cellar tour all day. They have a cave of original bottlings from the monks (the cave use to be part of a church) and they explain very well about the process of champagne. The racks and racks and racks of magnums is impressive to say the least!!! We go through the bottling area and then to the tasting room. We were given one glass of non vintage which was good but for some reason I thought Tait gave you a flight? Oh well. Picked up a bottle on 1998 which will be very yummy!!!!!!
May 3rd, 2004, 09:27 AM
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We had a 2pm appt. at Vueve Clicquot so we grabbed lunch at a very bad restaurant just down the block from the houses. We were overcharged and the food was sub par at best. Oh well, off to taste more champagne!
Vueve Clicquot is a beautiful house. The caves are quite different as they are the original chimmneys from the excavation of chalk in the city. Huge! I think there were over 300. Wow! The information provided on the tour was similar to what we had already heard but she did a good job of telling about the house's history. Their tasting room has a ton of retail in it so we all picked up a few trinkets. It was here that we met 2 American guys who were attending culinary school in Paris and just finishing a few days in the area. We joined them and proceeded to Piper where we skipped the tour but had a great time sitting in their tasting room and drinking flights of champagne. It was a very warm day and our feet were sore so this was a great rest! Piper definately has the best tasting room. It's set up with tables, chairs and a bar that you can relax at.
Almost time to catch our train home so we all decide to head back to Paris together. My girlfriends are single and I am proud to say that everytime I come to visit we find a few "hobbies" for them! haha!
The guys head back to their hotel to pack and we all are going to meet at the train station. We stop in the Piper retail store and the very nice salesgirl helps me purchase a cold bottle of champagne and a cooler bag so we can have some bubbly on the train. A long walk finally gets us to the station.
The guys have shown up with a bottle of wine too but we have no cups. So we go to the snack bar in the station and ask to buy some cups, nope! This lady does not want to be a part of our fun day! Each of us try to buy cups, bottles of water with cups, bribes just for her. Nothing works! Arrrrgggghhhh! We're not sure that this train has a snack car so we are desperate! haha! Finally we all realize we have small bottles of water and a pocket knife, problem solved! We saw the bottles in half and viola! cups! The train comes, we grab our party compartment and off we go. We don't have time to stop at Eperney as we will get back to Paris around 8pm and have decided to all have dinner and go out immediately upon returning.
We had a great time on the train with our champagne and wine. The ticket checkers laughed when they encountered our party and instead of checking our tickets decided to require the foil tops from our bottles!
Vueve Clicquot is a beautiful house. The caves are quite different as they are the original chimmneys from the excavation of chalk in the city. Huge! I think there were over 300. Wow! The information provided on the tour was similar to what we had already heard but she did a good job of telling about the house's history. Their tasting room has a ton of retail in it so we all picked up a few trinkets. It was here that we met 2 American guys who were attending culinary school in Paris and just finishing a few days in the area. We joined them and proceeded to Piper where we skipped the tour but had a great time sitting in their tasting room and drinking flights of champagne. It was a very warm day and our feet were sore so this was a great rest! Piper definately has the best tasting room. It's set up with tables, chairs and a bar that you can relax at.
Almost time to catch our train home so we all decide to head back to Paris together. My girlfriends are single and I am proud to say that everytime I come to visit we find a few "hobbies" for them! haha!
The guys head back to their hotel to pack and we all are going to meet at the train station. We stop in the Piper retail store and the very nice salesgirl helps me purchase a cold bottle of champagne and a cooler bag so we can have some bubbly on the train. A long walk finally gets us to the station.
The guys have shown up with a bottle of wine too but we have no cups. So we go to the snack bar in the station and ask to buy some cups, nope! This lady does not want to be a part of our fun day! Each of us try to buy cups, bottles of water with cups, bribes just for her. Nothing works! Arrrrgggghhhh! We're not sure that this train has a snack car so we are desperate! haha! Finally we all realize we have small bottles of water and a pocket knife, problem solved! We saw the bottles in half and viola! cups! The train comes, we grab our party compartment and off we go. We don't have time to stop at Eperney as we will get back to Paris around 8pm and have decided to all have dinner and go out immediately upon returning.
We had a great time on the train with our champagne and wine. The ticket checkers laughed when they encountered our party and instead of checking our tickets decided to require the foil tops from our bottles!
May 3rd, 2004, 02:27 PM
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ok, so we arrive back in Paris and we all go to the Marais for drinks at a place called the Beer Bar (original hu?). From here we head to a restaurant for dinner- Le Bouldog. The food is ok, nothing spectacular. It's asparagus season (only 3 weeks in Paris) so we get an entree with that but it's overcooked in our opinion. The duck confit is good as is the steak frites and the wine is a great price. We sit in front with the windows open to the street and have a great time drinking and telling stories.
From here we set off to find a bar known only to us as the African Bar. A few years back some friends and I were going to meet here (it was another bar at the time) but it was closed, undergoing a change to an African bar (that's all we could figure out of the sign in the window) so we decided to try to find it as it was in the Marais. We did good, found the bar, actually a Senagalese bar. Great sultry music, dancing and unusual drinks from the area. 3AM came quickly and we all left to find a cab.
From here we set off to find a bar known only to us as the African Bar. A few years back some friends and I were going to meet here (it was another bar at the time) but it was closed, undergoing a change to an African bar (that's all we could figure out of the sign in the window) so we decided to try to find it as it was in the Marais. We did good, found the bar, actually a Senagalese bar. Great sultry music, dancing and unusual drinks from the area. 3AM came quickly and we all left to find a cab.
May 3rd, 2004, 03:35 PM
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No offense taken chatnoir, infact I just remembered that we also had champagne with lunch and champagne while waiting for our dinner table. No hangovers, we are professionals! haha! In fact my friend and I were discussing this the next morning and I say that it definately has to do with the fact that we don't smoke anymore. When we smoked we would wake up with hangovers of death!
Day 4- after sleeping in a bit my friend and I head out to check out L'atelier Robouchon (sp). We found it but decided we weren't in the mood for anything too fancy so we headed to Brassiere Lipp for lunch, one of the oldies I hadn't been to in the past. It was packed, the front of the house seemed to be for the older Parisian regulars, the back for us tourists and youngsters! haha!
Very small tables, you sit side by side on the booth side. I had the pate en croute and a green salad and my friend had the roast chicken and frites. Both were excellent. A couple of cold beers tasted wonderful after all that champagne and wine the day before. Across the street we got crepes from a street vendor and made our way over to the Marais to do a bit of exploring. We were looking for an art squat my friend had read about.
We stumbled into a really cute food shop that I first thought was associated with O & Co. as it had a similar name. I bought some great citron salt and also a gorgeous olive wood salt cellar. My friend bought some tastey lemon chocolates.
Then we came across a small 3 star hotel- Hotel Paris Rivoli and decided to check it out. We are always on the look out for good, cheap places to stay and recommend to others. We went in and asked the manager if we could check out a room. My friend was holding her bag of lemon chocolates and this gentleman looked at the bag, reached in without saying a word, took a chocolate and popped it in his mouth. "mmmm, citron!" he said. We just about fell over laughing!! He never asked but also didn't do this rudely. It was like he was a good friend of ours and why should we mind! haha! Very comical. Anyway the rooms were small but comfortable, good sized bathrooms, a little smokey smelling but the windows probably hadn't been opened for a while as it wasn't quite spring/summer yet. Very close to the metro Saint Paul and I think it was 75 Euro a night. On Rue de Rivoli.
Back to our search of the squat. Ironically we found it directly across the street from the Gap. 59 Rue Rivoli. It's called Chez Robert Electron Libre and if you like art at all it is awesome! 6 or so floors of artist squatters, each room used as a studio. Artists painting, sculpting, chatting with each other. Everything for sale. Everything on display including themselves. Some extremely eclectic, some modern, some trashy. Every space, every inch in the building is adorned with art or would be art. We spoke to one of the artists and he told us it has been there for 3 years. a few live there but mainly it's just their studios. Absolutely unique and a great find in the Marais.
On to the Pompidou for the more tried and true artists
We were heading to the Miro exhibit after we grabbed a quick beer and sat on the patio of a cafe.
(off to cook dinner, more later. Thanks for the positive feedback!!!)
Day 4- after sleeping in a bit my friend and I head out to check out L'atelier Robouchon (sp). We found it but decided we weren't in the mood for anything too fancy so we headed to Brassiere Lipp for lunch, one of the oldies I hadn't been to in the past. It was packed, the front of the house seemed to be for the older Parisian regulars, the back for us tourists and youngsters! haha!
Very small tables, you sit side by side on the booth side. I had the pate en croute and a green salad and my friend had the roast chicken and frites. Both were excellent. A couple of cold beers tasted wonderful after all that champagne and wine the day before. Across the street we got crepes from a street vendor and made our way over to the Marais to do a bit of exploring. We were looking for an art squat my friend had read about.
We stumbled into a really cute food shop that I first thought was associated with O & Co. as it had a similar name. I bought some great citron salt and also a gorgeous olive wood salt cellar. My friend bought some tastey lemon chocolates.
Then we came across a small 3 star hotel- Hotel Paris Rivoli and decided to check it out. We are always on the look out for good, cheap places to stay and recommend to others. We went in and asked the manager if we could check out a room. My friend was holding her bag of lemon chocolates and this gentleman looked at the bag, reached in without saying a word, took a chocolate and popped it in his mouth. "mmmm, citron!" he said. We just about fell over laughing!! He never asked but also didn't do this rudely. It was like he was a good friend of ours and why should we mind! haha! Very comical. Anyway the rooms were small but comfortable, good sized bathrooms, a little smokey smelling but the windows probably hadn't been opened for a while as it wasn't quite spring/summer yet. Very close to the metro Saint Paul and I think it was 75 Euro a night. On Rue de Rivoli.
Back to our search of the squat. Ironically we found it directly across the street from the Gap. 59 Rue Rivoli. It's called Chez Robert Electron Libre and if you like art at all it is awesome! 6 or so floors of artist squatters, each room used as a studio. Artists painting, sculpting, chatting with each other. Everything for sale. Everything on display including themselves. Some extremely eclectic, some modern, some trashy. Every space, every inch in the building is adorned with art or would be art. We spoke to one of the artists and he told us it has been there for 3 years. a few live there but mainly it's just their studios. Absolutely unique and a great find in the Marais.
On to the Pompidou for the more tried and true artists
We were heading to the Miro exhibit after we grabbed a quick beer and sat on the patio of a cafe.(off to cook dinner, more later. Thanks for the positive feedback!!!)
May 3rd, 2004, 08:25 PM
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Stormygirl, I am loving your report. You sound like someone who really knows how to enjoy Paris!
I loved the bit about cutting down the water bottles to make champagne cups (flutes?) on the train. Ha!
I loved the bit about cutting down the water bottles to make champagne cups (flutes?) on the train. Ha!
