Springtime Greek Odyssey: A Tour of Athens, Delphi, the Peloponnese, and Santorini
May 10th, 2023, 06:54 PM
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Springtime Greek Odyssey: A Tour of Athens, Delphi, the Peloponnese, and Santorini
Kalispera - good morning from Greece. You are welcome to join me on an odyssey around Greece. My three-week trip around the country starts in the capital Athens, continues on to Delphi and the Peloponnese Peninsula, and ends on the island of Santorini. Along the way we will visit Olympia, Messene, Kalamata, the Mani Peninsula, Mystras, and Nafplion and the surrounding area. Starring on this trip will be ancient and Byzantine sites, history, landscapes, food, and culture.
I arrived in Athens last night. Welcoming me is an unforgettable view of the Acropolis from my hotel room.
I arrived in Athens last night. Welcoming me is an unforgettable view of the Acropolis from my hotel room.
May 11th, 2023, 12:08 PM
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HappyTrvlr, after just one day of touring Athens, I am able to appreciate why Greece is one of our favorite places. Greece is awesome in every way.
progol, thank you. I hope I will provide you with some useful information. Please do not hesitate to ask questions too.
KarenWoo, my itinerary is Athens (4 nights) - Delphi (2) - Olympia (2) - Kalamata (3) - Nafplion (4) - Santorini (4).
geetika, you're welcome. And yes, I love the Acropolis.
shelemm, it is the balcony to my hotel suite at NJV on Syntagma Square.
progol, thank you. I hope I will provide you with some useful information. Please do not hesitate to ask questions too.
KarenWoo, my itinerary is Athens (4 nights) - Delphi (2) - Olympia (2) - Kalamata (3) - Nafplion (4) - Santorini (4).
geetika, you're welcome. And yes, I love the Acropolis.
shelemm, it is the balcony to my hotel suite at NJV on Syntagma Square.
May 11th, 2023, 02:11 PM
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mztish, welcome. I'm please to have it.
zebec, fingers crossed none of the gods and goddesses have second thoughts about our plans this evening.
Athens: Highlights of the Greek Capital
The four of us arrived in Athens, Greece, at around 8:00 PM last night, flying in from London Heathrow on British Airways. Our flight was delayed by one hour due to thunderstorms in London around our scheduled time of departure. Otherwise, everything went smoothly, including the intercontinental flight from the United States. From the airport, we took the Metro to Syntagma Square. Our hotel, NJV, is right on the square next to the King George and Grande Bretagne hotels. We booked a suite with a balcony and views of the Acropolis - simply stunning. Could stare at the views, including that of Parliament and the activities at Syntagma Square, all day. We enjoyed a light dinner at Ella Greek Cooking, just a couple of blocks from our hotel - a very good introduction to Greek food in situ.
We enjoyed a full (but not exhausting) day in Athens today. Our aim: to beat the crowds at the Acropolis and take it in in relative peace. We began with an early start and breakfast at Centrale, across the street from the Metropolitan Church of Athens (a metropolitan church is an important church in Orthodox hierarchy, similar to a cathedral in Roman Catholicism), a short walk from our hotel.
From there, we strolled through the Plaka and to the Acropolis, arriving just before the 8:00 AM opening time. There were about two dozen people waiting for the gates to open. Once in, we made our way up the hill, spending a few minutes gazing down at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, before reaching the top. The Odeon has been restored to a large degree - the seats, the stage, and the backdrop. We slowly made our way up to the Propylaea Gate, with its fine marble columns. This place somewhat reminds me of the second courtyard of Karnak Temple, with its beautiful columns. Passing the gate, we were greeted with an unmistakable view of the Parthenon - a pinch me moment. We walked around the mathematical and geometrical marvel as much as we could, taking it in from all sides, admiring the columns and friezes, looking at the restoration activity, and imagining what it must have been like back in the day. We marveled at the Erechtheion with its Caryatid copies standing on guard at the porch. The views up here of the city below was breathtaking. Being up at the top and seeing buildings all around as far as the eye can see, one can truly appreciate Athens' size. We had about an hour of relative calm before tour groups and cruise ship groups started arriving. The size of the place meant that it took some time before the site filled up. By then, we had our fill and were ready to make a descent. Had we come at 9:00 or 9:30, the site would probably not have been as enjoyable.
From the Acropolis we made our way on foot to the Acropolis Museum. Displayed are artifacts found at or near the Acropolis, although not everything is original. The museum offers a picture-perfect view of the Acropolis. It also comes with a chance to visit the recently-excavated neighborhood from ancient times.
We were hungry by the time we completed our visit to the Acropolis Museum, so lunch was next on the agenda. We enjoyed Greek food - souvlaki, gyros, moussaka, and other classics - at Liondi. The service was as good as the food, especially given its location. From there we wandered over to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, both constructed during the reign of Roman emperor Hadrian. Much of the Temple of Olympian Zeus has fallen to inclement weather, war, and general neglect, so the visit didn't take too long. We made our way back to the base of Acropolis and headed north and west around the base of this rock citadel. We wound through white lanes of Anafiotika, inhabited by former residents of the island of Anafi and built to evoke their previous home.
We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting more ancient ruins, from the Roman Agora and Hadrian's Library to the Greek Agora. While each of the sites are worth visiting, a lot of the structures are now long gone, leaving stumps where stately columns used to sit. The Tower of the Winds was the most complete structure left at the Roman Agora, along with what is today the exit. A few impressive walls of the library still stand. And the reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos offered visitors a good understanding of what the building looked like during ancient times. The Temple of Hephaestus, also found at the Greek Agora, is also magnificent and still-standing. Democracy is also believed to be invited in the Greek Agora.
We ended our long day on and around Monastiraki Square, people watching and souvenir shopping. Dinner tonight was at Efcharis, a quick, inexpensive, and tasty choice. I'm learning that I can go on Greek food for quite some time. Syntagma Square is a short stroll along pedestrian Ermou, and it made for an enjoyable after-dinner wander. We were back in our hotel room by 10:00 PM, almost 16 hours after we left this morning.
Greek Parliament
Metropolitan Church
Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Propylaea Gate
Parthenon
Erechtheion with Caryatids
Parthenon, east view
Original Caryatids
Hadrian's Arch
Tower of the Winds at Roman Agora
Temple of Hephaestus at Greek Agora
Monastiraki Square
zebec, fingers crossed none of the gods and goddesses have second thoughts about our plans this evening.
Athens: Highlights of the Greek Capital
The four of us arrived in Athens, Greece, at around 8:00 PM last night, flying in from London Heathrow on British Airways. Our flight was delayed by one hour due to thunderstorms in London around our scheduled time of departure. Otherwise, everything went smoothly, including the intercontinental flight from the United States. From the airport, we took the Metro to Syntagma Square. Our hotel, NJV, is right on the square next to the King George and Grande Bretagne hotels. We booked a suite with a balcony and views of the Acropolis - simply stunning. Could stare at the views, including that of Parliament and the activities at Syntagma Square, all day. We enjoyed a light dinner at Ella Greek Cooking, just a couple of blocks from our hotel - a very good introduction to Greek food in situ.
We enjoyed a full (but not exhausting) day in Athens today. Our aim: to beat the crowds at the Acropolis and take it in in relative peace. We began with an early start and breakfast at Centrale, across the street from the Metropolitan Church of Athens (a metropolitan church is an important church in Orthodox hierarchy, similar to a cathedral in Roman Catholicism), a short walk from our hotel.
From there, we strolled through the Plaka and to the Acropolis, arriving just before the 8:00 AM opening time. There were about two dozen people waiting for the gates to open. Once in, we made our way up the hill, spending a few minutes gazing down at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, before reaching the top. The Odeon has been restored to a large degree - the seats, the stage, and the backdrop. We slowly made our way up to the Propylaea Gate, with its fine marble columns. This place somewhat reminds me of the second courtyard of Karnak Temple, with its beautiful columns. Passing the gate, we were greeted with an unmistakable view of the Parthenon - a pinch me moment. We walked around the mathematical and geometrical marvel as much as we could, taking it in from all sides, admiring the columns and friezes, looking at the restoration activity, and imagining what it must have been like back in the day. We marveled at the Erechtheion with its Caryatid copies standing on guard at the porch. The views up here of the city below was breathtaking. Being up at the top and seeing buildings all around as far as the eye can see, one can truly appreciate Athens' size. We had about an hour of relative calm before tour groups and cruise ship groups started arriving. The size of the place meant that it took some time before the site filled up. By then, we had our fill and were ready to make a descent. Had we come at 9:00 or 9:30, the site would probably not have been as enjoyable.
From the Acropolis we made our way on foot to the Acropolis Museum. Displayed are artifacts found at or near the Acropolis, although not everything is original. The museum offers a picture-perfect view of the Acropolis. It also comes with a chance to visit the recently-excavated neighborhood from ancient times.
We were hungry by the time we completed our visit to the Acropolis Museum, so lunch was next on the agenda. We enjoyed Greek food - souvlaki, gyros, moussaka, and other classics - at Liondi. The service was as good as the food, especially given its location. From there we wandered over to Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus, both constructed during the reign of Roman emperor Hadrian. Much of the Temple of Olympian Zeus has fallen to inclement weather, war, and general neglect, so the visit didn't take too long. We made our way back to the base of Acropolis and headed north and west around the base of this rock citadel. We wound through white lanes of Anafiotika, inhabited by former residents of the island of Anafi and built to evoke their previous home.
We spent the rest of the afternoon visiting more ancient ruins, from the Roman Agora and Hadrian's Library to the Greek Agora. While each of the sites are worth visiting, a lot of the structures are now long gone, leaving stumps where stately columns used to sit. The Tower of the Winds was the most complete structure left at the Roman Agora, along with what is today the exit. A few impressive walls of the library still stand. And the reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos offered visitors a good understanding of what the building looked like during ancient times. The Temple of Hephaestus, also found at the Greek Agora, is also magnificent and still-standing. Democracy is also believed to be invited in the Greek Agora.
We ended our long day on and around Monastiraki Square, people watching and souvenir shopping. Dinner tonight was at Efcharis, a quick, inexpensive, and tasty choice. I'm learning that I can go on Greek food for quite some time. Syntagma Square is a short stroll along pedestrian Ermou, and it made for an enjoyable after-dinner wander. We were back in our hotel room by 10:00 PM, almost 16 hours after we left this morning.
Greek Parliament
Metropolitan Church
Odeon of Herodes Atticus
Propylaea Gate
Parthenon
Erechtheion with Caryatids
Parthenon, east view
Original Caryatids
Hadrian's Arch
Tower of the Winds at Roman Agora
Temple of Hephaestus at Greek Agora
Monastiraki Square
May 11th, 2023, 03:18 PM
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Love your photo-sequence ... particularly the final one, Monastiraki Square. I think I'll steal that one, for when we get an inquiry by a first-timer who says, "we like a nice quiet room and we found a great AIrbnb just off Monastiraki... does anybody know what that is like at night?"
May 11th, 2023, 03:47 PM
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You were smart to arrive at the Acropolis by 8. We had a guided tour with Athens Walks that began at 9AM, and the Acropolis was mobbed! My photo is so different from yours! What is the weather like? We were in Athens at the end of May, and it was very hot at the Acropolis.
May 11th, 2023, 08:36 PM
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travelerjan, yes, Monastiraki was definitely one of the least quiet parts of town. I took that photo at around 9:30 PM.
KarenWoo, it's unseasonably cool here. It was cloudy and about 65 during the day yesterday, high 50s at night.
KarenWoo, it's unseasonably cool here. It was cloudy and about 65 during the day yesterday, high 50s at night.
May 12th, 2023, 02:44 PM
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mztish, thank you.
Athens: Museums, Gardens, and Public Spaces
We slept in a little bit this morning and ate breakfast at our hotel (not very good, especially for a 5-star hotel) before venturing out for the day. The forecast was for a warmer day with brighter skies, and proved accurate. We immediately noticed the change in temperature when we stepped outside - perfect touring weather.
We walked over to the Greek Parliament to watch the changing of the guards at the tomb of the unknown soldier. From there we enjoyed a very pleasant morning stroll in the National Gardens. Even though some of it was closed for replanting, we enjoyed strolling among the citrus trees with its wonderful aroma, looking at the turtle and the koi in the different ponds, and general people watching. We exited the gardens by the presidential palace, where we saw a similar changing of the guard ceremony.
Next up is the Panathenaic Stadium, built during ancient times, restored in the 19th century, and used for the 1896 and 2004 Olympics. The building is iconic in that the general layout is still used in the construction of stadia worldwide, across cultures, and that it is one of the homes of the modern Olympic movement. It was fun walking around the track, sitting in the stands, and exploring the building from different sides, pretending to be athlete and spectator. The stands also offer good views of both the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. From the stadium, we took a quick look at the very little that remains of Aristotle's Lyceum (included in the Acropolis combo ticket, but not worth the time if you're short of it) and a light Italian lunch at Brunello in the ritzy Kolonaki neighborhood. We spent the rest of the afternoon in this neighborhood, in the shadow of Lycabettus Hill.
We devoted a good portion of our afternoon to two museums: the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture and the Byzantine and Christian Museum. We also wanted to see the Museum of Cycladic Art as well as the National Gallery, but did not have the time on this trip. Both the museums we did visit, though, were very worthwhile, perhaps Benaki a bit more so. The Benaki Museum took us on a visual journey in time, from ancient Greece to the Byzantine period, and the 19th century; the exhibits largely skip over the Ottoman period. In the museum is everything from old vases and other pottery to jewelry to religious art. The costumes from different regions of Greece were fabulous. There are also two completely reproduced rooms from a 19th century aristocratic home - decked out in ornamentation that it seemed as if it was transported out of Turkey.
The Byzantine and Christian Museum, you guessed it, focused on the two aspects of Greek history, culture, and traditions. The exhibits go from the Roman Empire becoming Christian to life in the 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Ottoman period. Two of the altarpieces found in the museum are exquisite.
After we've had our fill of museums for the day, we headed up Lycabettus Hill. It was a steep climb up the streets of Kolonaki before arriving at the base of the hill, admiring the people, sidewalk cafes, and shops along the way. We could have gone up the hill by funicular, but chose to hoof it up. The views up the hill of the city below was spectacular - it's unbelievable the number of white buildings stretching as far as the eye can see, the hills all around, and the Aegean beyond, not to mention landmarks such as the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, and the Panathenaic Stadium. We enjoyed dinner at Orizontes, right at the top. I am sometimes skeptical of meals at such touristy places, but this one was worth it. Watching dusk and eventually night fall upon the city as the lights come on - an experience to remember.
Athens: Museums, Gardens, and Public Spaces
We slept in a little bit this morning and ate breakfast at our hotel (not very good, especially for a 5-star hotel) before venturing out for the day. The forecast was for a warmer day with brighter skies, and proved accurate. We immediately noticed the change in temperature when we stepped outside - perfect touring weather.
We walked over to the Greek Parliament to watch the changing of the guards at the tomb of the unknown soldier. From there we enjoyed a very pleasant morning stroll in the National Gardens. Even though some of it was closed for replanting, we enjoyed strolling among the citrus trees with its wonderful aroma, looking at the turtle and the koi in the different ponds, and general people watching. We exited the gardens by the presidential palace, where we saw a similar changing of the guard ceremony.
Next up is the Panathenaic Stadium, built during ancient times, restored in the 19th century, and used for the 1896 and 2004 Olympics. The building is iconic in that the general layout is still used in the construction of stadia worldwide, across cultures, and that it is one of the homes of the modern Olympic movement. It was fun walking around the track, sitting in the stands, and exploring the building from different sides, pretending to be athlete and spectator. The stands also offer good views of both the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. From the stadium, we took a quick look at the very little that remains of Aristotle's Lyceum (included in the Acropolis combo ticket, but not worth the time if you're short of it) and a light Italian lunch at Brunello in the ritzy Kolonaki neighborhood. We spent the rest of the afternoon in this neighborhood, in the shadow of Lycabettus Hill.
We devoted a good portion of our afternoon to two museums: the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture and the Byzantine and Christian Museum. We also wanted to see the Museum of Cycladic Art as well as the National Gallery, but did not have the time on this trip. Both the museums we did visit, though, were very worthwhile, perhaps Benaki a bit more so. The Benaki Museum took us on a visual journey in time, from ancient Greece to the Byzantine period, and the 19th century; the exhibits largely skip over the Ottoman period. In the museum is everything from old vases and other pottery to jewelry to religious art. The costumes from different regions of Greece were fabulous. There are also two completely reproduced rooms from a 19th century aristocratic home - decked out in ornamentation that it seemed as if it was transported out of Turkey.
The Byzantine and Christian Museum, you guessed it, focused on the two aspects of Greek history, culture, and traditions. The exhibits go from the Roman Empire becoming Christian to life in the 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Ottoman period. Two of the altarpieces found in the museum are exquisite.
After we've had our fill of museums for the day, we headed up Lycabettus Hill. It was a steep climb up the streets of Kolonaki before arriving at the base of the hill, admiring the people, sidewalk cafes, and shops along the way. We could have gone up the hill by funicular, but chose to hoof it up. The views up the hill of the city below was spectacular - it's unbelievable the number of white buildings stretching as far as the eye can see, the hills all around, and the Aegean beyond, not to mention landmarks such as the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, and the Panathenaic Stadium. We enjoyed dinner at Orizontes, right at the top. I am sometimes skeptical of meals at such touristy places, but this one was worth it. Watching dusk and eventually night fall upon the city as the lights come on - an experience to remember.
May 12th, 2023, 02:51 PM
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A few photos to go with my most recent installment. For some reason, Fodor's did not allow me to load the photos with the written report.
Panathenaic Stadium
Athletes' Tunnel at the Panathenaic
Parthenon View from the Panathenaic
Acropolis at Dusk, from Lycabettus Hill
Acropolis at Nightfall, from the Same Location on Lycabettus (this is taken table-side at Orizontes)
Panathenaic Stadium
Athletes' Tunnel at the Panathenaic
Parthenon View from the Panathenaic
Acropolis at Dusk, from Lycabettus Hill
Acropolis at Nightfall, from the Same Location on Lycabettus (this is taken table-side at Orizontes)
May 13th, 2023, 06:07 AM
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The ancient cemetery in Athens is also near Monastaraki.
https://www.greeka.com/attica/athens...ikos-cemetery/
https://www.greeka.com/attica/athens...ikos-cemetery/
