Kathie

Janis, I love reading about your time in London as who knows when I will get back to that wonderful city!

The hoops one has to jump through (Covid testing) sound daunting.

janisj

Sorry -having a tough time getting in gear will try to get some rolled out tonight . . .

Nov 29-30 Sacramento to the Savoy

My flight from SMF to Dallas was at the ungodly hour of 06:10. I decided to drive and park at the airport. I won't (ever) use the remote economy lots at SMF because they are a long way from the terminals and there can be quite a wait for a shuttle bus. So I parked in the garage which is $18 / day vs $10 / day in the econ. lot and are right across from the terminal. Heck -- I'm staying at the Savoy I can afford a measly $18 per day Won't be the last time I rationalize over spending.

Flying business and having my PLF printed out and a copy of my CDC card it took me less that 2 minutes to check in and even less to get through the Pre√ line. Flight was fine - vey smooth and and unexpectedly we got pre departure drinks and a meal. Wasn't like the old days but a substantial veggie sandwich, yoghurt, a decent sized fruit plate, hard boiled egg and some cheese all served on one tray - and a mimosa. Had about 4 hours on the ground at DFW and the Admirals Club was open and only about a minute's walk from the LHR flight's gate. This was the first time I'bve been on a plane since Jan. '20 and all in all it wasn't so very different than back then . . . except for the masks of course. The LHR flight boarded on time and before I'd fully settled in they'd already hung up my coat and brought a glass of Champagne. Like the way this trip is headed

I was really surprised that the meal service was very much like pre-pandemic times. Warm towel, courses served separately, real glasses and silverware, full drinks service, bread basket brought around, etc. Starter was a plate with lemon chicken, humus, asparagus and aioli.. This was followed by a green salad with feta, edamame and sundried tomatoes. For the main course I chose the beef short rib w/ horseradish, twice baked potato and green beans. Desserts were cheese plate, chocolate cheesecake tart, or hot fudge sundae. I had the sundae and asked for a cheese plate to nibble on overnight. All was tasty (except the twice baked potato which was sort of 'tough')

One loss to pandemic 'economies' - there is no mattress pad, so while it is a lie flat bed, it isn't quite as comfortable. But other than that - seems to be the same bedding, amenity kits, etc. About 45 minutes before landing at LHR, breakfast was fruit plate/yoghurt/ granola or cheese omelet/chicken sausage/red potatoes. But after munching on the cheese course overnight all I had was the fruit plate.

Up thread I've already described the LHR arrival, quick immigration, ExpressTest 'move up' and Just Airports coming early. I see I mis-spoke / mis remembered one thing. I didn't call the Concepto Clinic from the car. I tried to phone them but halfway through dialing my phone went dead and my Halo charger was buried in my suitcase. So when I got to the Savoy, the Concierge took my bag and phoned Concepto for me. Dashed across town, had the test, back to the hotel. They ushered me into the GORGEOUSLY holiday decorated residents lounge where I had a pot of tea and then a glass of champagne. By then my room was ready and I was escorted up . . . wow, just WOW. I had booked a Superior Queen (which probably IS superior but is the lowest/cheapest room). But they upgraded me to a Luxury King . . . not all the way to a Luxury King/River View but still mighty nice. Entry hall, huge bathroom with about an 7 foot tub, separate rain shower, bidet, marble everywhere. Then in the very large bedroom with masses of closet space, curved paneling, large chandelier, nespresso-type machine and electric kettle, mini fridge (not stocked except for water and juice). Both the bed and bathroom linens were really elevated -- enormous think bath towels.

Unpacked, took a long bubble bath, and waited for the rapid PCR results and then at 2:15 went down to the Thames Foyer for afternoon tea. Beautiful room, beautiful decorations, beautiful pianist, beautiful service . . . you get the idea

Had Champagne and the Savoy Afternoon Blend tea. Finger sandwiches: Egg & truffle, Coronation Turkey/Cranberry bread, pickled Cucumber with ricotta, smoked salmon on spinach bread. Had 2nds of the turkey and salmon. Then there were little tart-like 'sandwiches' - one scallop and one cheddar and pear. Plain and fruit scones 2 each. And finally the pastries - which were works of art - White chocolate w/ cherry; Chestnut cake w/ redcurrents and whisky; A mini Christmas cake; and a dacquoise w/ pecans/caramel/vanilla/pear jelly. I had them box up 2 of the scones and two of the pastries for a midnight snack in my room.

This was a full meal for sure and I was starting to flag a bit so went up to the room to relax, check e-mail, and watch some telly. dozed of for about 45 minutes and then felt pretty good. Didn't go out again but about 10PM ordered up a Caprese salad glass of chardonay and finished off the pastries. I'll save the scones for breakfast tomorrow. Slept like a baby . . .

Next: Dec 1 Courtauld, dinner at the Botanist followed by Christmas at Kew, nightcap(s) in the Beaufort Bar.

janisj

Tulips: Missed your post. No, I haven't seen the programme. Thanks, I'll have to look to see if its streamed in the States . . .


Meant to add -- apparently all Savoy rooms are divided into two distinct styles -- either 'Elegant Edwardian' or Art Deco -- mine was in the Edwardian mode. I haven't downloaded my photos yet but will try to get to it this weekend. I'll pst some shots of my room and the hotel decorations.

Trophywife007

Signing on to read more of this... it sounds like heaven. Green with envy here!

janisj

" . . . enormous think thick bath towels . . ."

not bothering about all the other typos

Treesa

Following you on this stylish mini sojourn. I'm not ready to deal with the Covid protocols as yet. And so I wait.

balthy

"Soooo I decided to spend the extra money (lots) to get an additional rapid (3 hour) PCR test to get me out of jail sooner. Express Test only offers rapid tests for departing passengers at LHR. So I went ahead and booked a rapid test from a clinic on Wimpole Street for 11AM . . ." Rapid Day 2 PCR tests are not approved yet, at least thats what Collinson stated on their email newsletter and I assume that would be the case for ExpressTest. A regular rapid PCR test is not the same as a Day 2 arrival into the UK PCR test, as explained in the link

https://consumersupport.collinsonass...day-2-pcr-test

janisj

Balthy: "A regular rapid PCR test is not the same as a Day 2 arrival into the UK PCR test, as explained in the link"

My regular Day 2 arrivals PCR test was via Express Test. That one was to satisfy the UK rules. The rapid PCR test is the one I took at Concepto. I took that one so I could have a QR code in my phone to show any venue I was covid-free. I did stay in the hotel (though not in my room) until the 'official' Express Test results arrived. I may not have met the exact letter of the law but feel I more than met the spirit. BTW they are definitely approved - but not as the 'Day 2' test for the PLF.

northie

loving your birthday tale of my favourite city -sounds wonderful Janis.i

janisj

Dec 1 Courtauld, dinner at the Botanist followed by Christmas at Kew, nightcap(s) in the Beaufort Bar.

Had a 10:30 booking at the Courtauld - which is about a 2 minutes from the Savoy. Easy commute This is the morning I should have had breakfast in the Thames Foyer but I still had scones and a little birthday cake that had been delivered to my room sometime during the day. So a couple of cups of tea, two scones and about half of the wee cake and that was my b'fast. Then a looooong bubble bath. I could get used to this. Walked down to the Courtauld which has just reopened after a major renovation. The makeover was really well done. The Great Room now is, well, great - and basically one large space with very good lighting. The art is much better displayed. I love Impressionists and post Impressionists so this has been one of my favorite 'small' galleries. Now its a must. If it was just A Bar at the Folies-Bergère, it would be worth a visit, but with the large collection of Cézanne's, plus Gauguin, Renoir, Monet, Seurat Van Gogh and many more anyone who enjoys Impressionism should go there. Then I spent a while in the Blavatnik Fine Rooms which has Renaissance and later works up to the 18th Century including Botticelli, Rubens, Gainsborough, Bruegel etc etc. It is an amazing collection. All that art is hard work so I stopped in the cafe for a cappuccino and rest my feet.

Then I walked over to the Coliseum to collect my ENO ticket for HMS Pinafore on Friday night. I was starting to get a bit peckish but I'm having an early dinner so decided to tough it out and not stop for lunch. Walked back to the hotel for champagne and small snacks in the Lounge. Went up and finished the small bit of birthday cake, put on my thickest cashmere sweater and socks and wool slacks, gloves, scarf, umbrella and puffer coat gearing up for what would likely be a (really) cold wet time at Kew. Took the tube from Embankment out to Kew and walked the 5-ish minutes to the Victoria Gate.

I had booked a 5:00 seating at the Botanist and 7:20 ticket for Christmas @ Kew. Though once you are in the grounds, which my dinner booking allowed, you really are free to roam and not have to wait til your time slot. At 5:00 there were only about 3 tables filled at the Botanist and they gave me what seemed the best table in the place. a window table looking straight out across the Lake to the Palm House and the continual light / laser / fountains show. It was a beautiful backdrop for my dinner. Started with a glass of prosecco (was surprised to see Sierra Nevada Hazy Little Thing from nearby Chico on the drinks menu). My starter was a really delicious Celeriac soup with crumbled chestnuts on top. Then I had a true Christmas dinner with turkey stuffed with sage sausage, Brussels sprouts, roasted/caramelized carrots and parsnips, and Yorkshire pud. I know I had dessert but can't really remember what - do know I had a mulled wine which was included with the set menu. Three courses inc. mulled wine was £34 which I thought was reasonable. Wasn't 3* Michelin standards but was tasty and well cooked and the service was good.

The only light rain I encountered the whole 5 days was a short spell while I was inside the restaurant and it cleared up just about the time I headed out into the gardens. Had to use my umbrella a bit just because of drips from trees and some of the constructions. But it was actually quite pleasant. Cool but not really cold and damp but not really wet. I had attended Christmas at Kew back in '19 but without the dinner. I did enjoy it but if I was being totally honest, this year was just a teensy bit 'less spectacular'. All parts of the hospitality industry have suffered of course so it may just be the Kew was on a more limited budget. I'll try to download some of the phots when I've finished the TR. I do think I'm am one darned lucky gal though -- been to Christmas at Kew twice in early December and not rained on either time

Headed back into town on the tube - but thought about that hike up the hill from Embankment Station (not really that much of a hike/hill) and thinking it might be wet and slippery I got off at Westminster and took a cab from there to the hotel. After dropping the coat/scarf et al in the room I headed down to the Beaufort Bar. Four or 5 couples were queueing at the desk and were asked to step aside until tables might free up. I next stepped up to the desk and she asked if I had booked - I said "No, I am in the hotel." Well those were the secret passwords and she led me straightaway in to a table right in front of the elevated bar. I could definitely get used to this Had a Bright Spark cocktail which is Gin, Italicus bergamot liqueur, verbena and champagne. Then I had a decaf bailey's / coffee and floated up to my room and slept like a baby . . . again. (which is more than a little weird -- jet lag usually results in me being 'wired' and unable to sleep for several days unless taking sleep aids of some sort. Must be the Savoy Effect )

Next: Dec 2, Milestone birthday, Wallace Collection, Lunch @ Alain Ducasse and evening GTG

Vicky

You travel the way I enjoy it at this point in life. Beauty. Luxury. Elegance... and I really love London.

kmowatt

Hi Janis! I’m smiling here at your Embankment Tube comment!! I walked up the slope after a long day out and about in London last week and must admit I was happy when I finally made it to the top!! It’s quite a hike up from the river. I went to the Courtauld after seeing you, and I agree the renovation has been well done and I loved looking out the windows onto the skating rink and the backdrop of Somerset House.

Interesting to hear your comments about American. Air Canada also had full service in their newly named Signature Class cabin; full open bar, full menu served on china with glass and proper cutlery also. However, no pre flight champagne service anymore and they’ve eliminated the hot towels and the linen on your table. Not sure why? They did still have the mattress pads for the lie flat seats…

Look forward to reading the next instalments; on my way home tomorrow. I’ve absolutely loved having a month here!

northie

what a wonderful experience at Kew.. Ive only been to the Courtauld once and though t why havent I been here before

janisj

Next: Dec 2, Milestone birthday, Wallace Collection, Lunch @ Alain Ducasse and evening GTG

After a pot of tea in my room, I picked up a continental breakfast from what was, pre-covid, the lovely chocolate shop off the hotel lobby. (Apparently there are plans to bring back the shop at some point. I used to stop in there whenever I was going to the Savoy Theatre to pick up yummy treats to nibble during the show) Took the fruit and pastries into the residents lounge and had more tea and a mimosa.

First stop of the day was the Wallace Collection for the Frans Hals: the Male Portrait exhibition. This was a fabulous small (only 12 portraits) show. The star of course is the Laughing Cavalier (who isn't laughing at al) but several of the other portraits are just as interesting. The audio guide is excellent with at least two really informative entries for each picture - one by the curator and one by various experts on clothing of the time, or the sitter's profession, or biographical notes re Hals or the subject. Several of the paintings had a 3rd audio talking about 'maleness' then and now which were sorta silly IMO and after 2 or 3 - I skipped those op-ed-ish audios. Hals technique is remarkable and well into his 80's he was still evolving. It is said his palette included 27 different blacks! One would think twelve pictures - can't be that riveting -- but I spent more than an hour with those 12 men.

I had maybe another 30-45 minutes before having to head to lunch. Having been to the Wallace Collection several times over the years and as recently as 2 years ago, I didn't try to cram in much and mainly concentrated on the 15-20 Canaletto's on display. Anyone who likes either Old Masters or amazing decorative arts like Boulle and similar furniture, clocks, etc should make a point of visiting the Wallace Collection.

From there I had a noon booking at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. I had I decided 2 or 3 months ago that I wanted a splurge over-the-top lunch to celebrate this significant birthday and originally wanted to eat at Core by Clare Smyth but it was fully booked for just about the entire month. I hit on Alain Ducasse but they wouldn't take an on-line booking for one. So I rang them up 'just in case' and they said no problem at all. I was going to walk from The Wallace collection -- its less than a mile through Mayfair/Grosvenor Square. But when I stepped outside it was pretty cold/windy so I walked up to Wigmore Street and hailed a cab.

That got me to the hotel about 15 minutes before my noon booking/the restaurant opening. Don't know what to actually call him -- not concierge, not host . . . maybe high class, formally dressed bouncer who greeted me as I entered the hotel took my coat and lead me to the REALLY GORGEOUSLY decorated Promenade (similar to the Thames Foyer at the Savoy -- a grand lounge-type room off the lobby) where I waited until the restaurant hostess came to take me in to my table.

The room is lovely - only maybe 12-ish tables with one wall of windows looking out on to Park Lane. Sort of reminded me of the decor at Petrus - modern (very unlike the ornate vibe in the hotel's public rooms), plush, comfortable. Only 12 tables but probably 25 waiters/staff. Really wonderful service - not overbearing at all. While I was reading the menu they brought a glass of champagne and a couple of sort of 'pre-amuse bouche'. Apparently one staff member's main job was to visit each table as they were reviewing the menu . . . carrying a glass dome holding the largest white truffle I've ever seen (not kidding - almost the size of a softball) which he let the guest smell and advising re the three dishes which might be enhanced with the addition of a bit of truffle gold. Luckily none of the dishes I was considering was 'truffle-appropriate'

After another amuse bouche my starter was the most delicate sea scallop with cauliflower slivers and caviar with a light citrusy sauce. Then I ordered a glass of red wine (I thought I wrote down the wine but can't find it) to go with my main . . . Saddle and loin of venison with cabbage and pumpkin. It was probably in the top 2 or 3 venison dishes I've ever eaten. The saddle especially was amazingly tender and perfectly medium rare. Before my dessert / pot of tea they brought a small roll of salted caramel gelato and wafers with a candle . . . I only ever mentioned it being my birthday way back when I was booking on the phone and then only in passing - something like "Oh I'm so glad I can get in, haven't been able to travel for so long and thought I'd try a short trip over my birthday". Then came my 'real' dessert which was a small work of art Mont Blanc with chestnut and yuzu and teensy crunchy spheres of 'something'. The meal was very good and the service was perfect . . . well except maybe for the 'truffle guy' I can't say it was the best meal I've ever had . . . that was probably several years ago at Gordon Ramsay Hospital Road (which was also a birthday dinner) But it was definitely in the top 5 or 6.

Waddled out of the Dorchester and caught a taxi to the Savoy . . . Is this a posh trip or what Relaxed in my room for a couple of hours before our GTG at 5:30 - flanneruk, Patrick_London,kmowatt & moi. Apparently I dozed off because when I glanced at the bedside clock . . . it said 5:20. EEK. But not to worry -- flanner had booked the GTG at the Clermont (the previous Amba Charing Cross that Dukey had recommended a few times). The Clermont is about a 5 minute walk down the Strand. So I got there right on time. (I don't think flanner knew at the time he booked that I was at the Savoy so it was just a 'dumb luck' that I could doze til 5:20 and still get to the GTG on time.) I wasn't hungry at all but the guys ordered up two massive Pub Platters to share with scampi, and whitebait, and pigs in blankets and tons of other stuff. The little bit I did sample was good. We had drinks all around and chatted for nearly 3 hours. Was a lot of fun and there was almost no gossip about other fodorites LOL

I had the shortest commute by far . . . 5 mins back up the Strand. Bubble bath - my last night at the Savoy and that massive bathtub. Slept like a baby - again.

Next: Dec 3rd, more exceptional service at the Savoy, transfer down market to the Citadines, lunch at the British Museum and HMS Pinafore

nyse

I very much like the manner in which you recommend something ~ “if you like x or y, you might make a point of visiting z.”
This is a thousand times better than “omg, you’ve got to ….!”

(The minute someone tells me I “have to” do something, I think “oh no, I don’t.”)

Fra_Diavolo

Loving this report, although the Savoy is well above my pay grade. Your description of the waitstaff at Alain Ducasse reminded me of a long ago dinner at the Grill in the Hotel Connaught (also above my pay grade). The captain silently commanded his army of waiters by subtly flicking this eyes to a table needing attention, like maybe a second after a crumb had fallen . . . Still remember my starter, a mosaic of crab and lobster with a surprise, a soft-boiled quail's egg in the middle.

Also good to hear news of old Flanner, who ain't lately been seen around here. We miss his often hilarious fulminations.

janisj

Yes -- one of the initial pre-amuse bouche was a delicious but semi unwieldy 'thing' (and quite large for a traditional amuse bouche). It was a long (like about 8 inches long X 2 inches wide) narrow, very crisp seeded cracker-ish thingy scattered with all sorts of tasty stuff. The waiter cut it into six individual 2 X 1.5 inch crackers and about the 5th one sort of crumbled when I picked it up and some seeds and other bits scattered on the table. Almost before I knew it had happened two waiters arrived one to sweep up the detritus and the other to spread a napkin on the table cloth to cover the offending two teensy spots.

And flanner was in his usual good form (as were all of us )

janisj

Dec 3rd, more exceptional service at the Savoy, transfer down market to the Citadines, lunch at the British Museum and HMS Pinafore

Checking out of the Savoy this morning but I don't have to leave (kicking and screaming ) until 11AM so I'm using every second of it. I packed (quick when one travels carry on only) and had a cup of tea then took my bag down to the concierge about 9:30. I asked if they knew any nearby salons that would take walk ins for a quick wash/blow out and he said there were two and to hold on a moment. He rang one of the salons and his end of the conversation went something like "Yes this morning. Short hair, just a wash and style. Thank your". He hung up, turned to me and said they can take you right now. Me - "Brilliant, thanks, where is the salon?" . . . Him - "Its nearby, I'll show you the way." And he walked me around the corner into the Strand and to the salon and the manager and stylist greeted me by name and immediately seated me at the wash station.

Hair all washed and dried and bouncy, it is still only about 10:15 and I'm still 'legal' in the residents lounge. So one last tea/snacks/using hotel's wifi and at straight up 11 I check out and get a taxi to the Holborn Citadines. My room wasn't ready so I dropped my bag and first went almost directly street to the Rosewood for a quick look-see. Wow -- very posh but I don't think I could actually stay there. The decor in the public rooms is pretty much over the top and the striped marble floor in the lobby actually made me a bit dizzy. But it was interesting. Pretty impressive conversion of an old insurance company.

Room still wasn't ready and they would text me if it became available before the normal 3PM check in. I walked over to the British Museum and wandered just around the ground floor a bit then went up to the Great Court Restaurant (currently only open for lunch Thurs-Sun 11AM - 2PM and afternoon tea Th-Su 2-4 PM). Had my 2nd Christmas turkey meal of the trip - Confit turkey with apricot stuffing, candied carrots, fondant potatoes and roasted Brussel sprouts and a glass of prosecco and pot of tea. Around 2:00 received a text that the room would be ready in about 15 minutes so headed back to Holborn. Got the key and headed up. Perfectly OK room but definitely NOT the Savoy Studio with a decent bathroom and kitchen alcove. The type of place where you have to put a room key in a slot to activate the electrical power. But at least they do provide a dummy key card so you can actually charge things while out and about.

Unpacked then went out - was going to walk to Covent Garden but being cold (still no rain) I hopped on the tube and went to Leicester Square. Wasn't really hungry but it was going to be a long show so I stopped in the Radisson Blu for bar snacks and a cocktail -- my, has that hotel changed. The Hampshire Lounge Bar used to be sort of lounge-y with comfortable upholstered chairs, chaises, cocktail tables with signature cocktails and traditional small plates. Now its sort of hard edged/industrial/not very attractive, and all the food is Mexican/Latin-ish and lots of margaritas etc. Ended up having a semi-OK guacamole and glass of chardonnay.

Then I walked over to the Coliseum - during this time masks were not mandated in pubs/restaurants/theatres etc (this has changed since I returned home) but the ENO required masks. I ordered a special cranberry/champagne cocktail for the interval and settled in for a rollicking production of HMS Pinafore. Unfortunately Josephine (the soprano lead) played by Alexandra Oomens had a bit of a problem. As Captain Corcoran explained before curtain . . . she was a bit under the weather but game enough to perform. She would do all the dancing and straight dialogue . . but could not sing?? So another soprano sitting in the box stage right did ALL of the vocals and Alexandra lip synched. It was a teensy bit off putting having her dancing and 'singing' all over the stage - the voice came from the left side of the stage. I was in the front row of the Dress Circle over towards the left side (stage right) so I couldn't see the 'sub' without leaning forward and looking over the balcony. They were never off synch and one eventually got used to it. Alexandra Oomens got very good reviews in the London press so it would have been nice to hear her. (I unfortunately did not catch the name of the sub - but she had a wonderful clear soprano). Les Dennis (and English comedian) played Sir Joseph Porter and actually sang pretty well. The entire ensemble was terrific really, the dancing was among the best I've seen in London and the set was really ingenious rotating between the main deck and the aft of the ship with all the stairs and sails and.

After the show it had warmed up just a bit so I walked up through Seven Dials looking at all the holiday lights and then up to Holborn and to bed after a decaf tea and some chocolate digestives. Just after I settled in to bed I got a text from AA saying my Sunday morning flight from LHR to Charlotte was delayed (they know this two days in advance?? ) and I'd miss my connection to SMF and I could select another routing. So I jumped on the site and found J availability on the 2:45 flight to DFW which would give me about 60 mins on the ground before the SMF flight. I'd get in at 11PM instead of the original 8:30PM. About 10 minutes after receiving the text I'm re-booked on the new flights. Funny thing is - the DFW flight is the one I REALLY wanted in the first place but that routing was almost $500 higher than routing through CLT. I booked and paid for CLT and got DFW anyway - winner

Next: Dec 4 - Last day in London, Dr Johnson's house, Mostly comped lunch, covid test

janisj

I'm sure there are other errors/typos but fixing this one " . . . and first went almost directly across the street to the Rosewood for a quick look-see."

northie

what fun that GTG would have been