Spain wineries--Ribera del Duero and Rioja
Apr 4th, 2008 | 06:06 AM
#1
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Spain wineries--Ribera del Duero and Rioja
We love wine and we love architecture so winery architecture is a natural for us. The June 2003 Wine Spectator shows Calatrava's Ysios in Rioja (not sure where, exactly) and the Marques de Riscal in El Ciego. I'd like to see both of them and any others that are particularly noteworthy in these two regions when we are there in June. Any specific suggestions would be very much appreciated as would information about winery visiting in Spain. I have "A Traveller's Wine guide to Spain" but it was published in 1998 so a lot may have changed since then. Again, specific suggestions about where to find opening information, more recent books or guides, etc. would be very much appreciated. I'm willing to do the work, just need some direction. Thanks.
Apr 4th, 2008 | 06:14 AM
#2
Joined: May 2005
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Julie: Wines From Spain has been offering an excellent free book entitled (what else?) Wines From Spain. I was able to get one through their website but a quick look just now did not turn up any information on how to order...perhaps someone here (Maribel?) will have more information. It is an excellent book with maps and descriptions of many wineries; the latest edition seems to be 2005-2006.
Apr 4th, 2008 | 07:12 AM
#3
Joined: Mar 2003
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A lot has changed since 1998 and even the "Wines From Spain" is only marginally good when directing you to the best bodegas.
There have been several new bodegas opened in the last few years that are architecturally significent, Juan Alcorta (Logroño), Bai Gorri (Samaniego), Marques de Riscal (Elciego) and Cune's Vina Real (Laserna), with more to come.
One thing to remember is that you do not want to plan on visiting too many bodegas in one day. Two a day is fine if you want to eat lunch in a bodega, three if you are not planning lunch. Most bodegas do not open before 10:00 and late afternoon visits can be tiring if you go after a typical Riojan lunch.
Apr 4th, 2008 | 07:57 AM
#4
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Thanks ekscrunchy, your suggestion got me started on a pretty worthwhile google search. Found lots of places to follow up and now have a load of bookmarks to work through.
Thanks Robert, I found several of your suggestions in my google search, but not Juan Alcorta, so I'll follow up on that. In looking through sites I found lots of info about opening hours and then notes that tours are by appointment. Can I infer from that that you can go see the place, but not tour WITHOUT an appointment, or do I need an appointment in most places to just enter and hopefully taste?
Thanks Robert, I found several of your suggestions in my google search, but not Juan Alcorta, so I'll follow up on that. In looking through sites I found lots of info about opening hours and then notes that tours are by appointment. Can I infer from that that you can go see the place, but not tour WITHOUT an appointment, or do I need an appointment in most places to just enter and hopefully taste?
Apr 4th, 2008 | 10:59 AM
#6
Joined: Mar 2003
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Tasting wine at a bodega in the Rioja is not like tastings in Napa and other locations. It's nearly impossible just to go for a tasting without a visit to the processing facility unless you know someone and are there only to purchase some wine.
As far as seeing the bodegas from the outside, you may be disappointed in that the new bodegas, Juan Alcorta, BaiGorri, Viña Real, etc., are built into the hillsides to reduce the cost of maintaining the temperature and to take advantage of gravity during the wine making process.
The new Marques de Riscal hotel is impressive if you are a fan for Frank Gehry, but a tip into the bodega is just as impressive, as are all of the new bodegas.
As far as seeing the bodegas from the outside, you may be disappointed in that the new bodegas, Juan Alcorta, BaiGorri, Viña Real, etc., are built into the hillsides to reduce the cost of maintaining the temperature and to take advantage of gravity during the wine making process.
The new Marques de Riscal hotel is impressive if you are a fan for Frank Gehry, but a tip into the bodega is just as impressive, as are all of the new bodegas.
Apr 4th, 2008 | 11:43 AM
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
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Julie,
We just returned from a second visit to Marqués de Riscal; on our first we dined in the restaurant whose kitchen is supervised by Paniego of Michelin starred Echaurren in Elciego and took a tour of the hotel-Caudalie spa with the marketing director.
This time we took friends on thewinery visit, which they really enjoyed. It gives you a chance to enjoy the spectacular architecture of Gehry's hotel up close and personal.
After the tour you can go to the hotel bar for a drink or have lunch at the restaurant (always with a prior reservation!!!). You do need advance reservations for the winery tour. We took the first English tour at 10 am; cost was €10 with 2 tastings (not so great-the run of the mill Rueda white but a better red). Guide was cute.
Even the most recent guides/booklets in English available in the US aren't up to date now, as the winery scene is changing so dramatically and so rapidly. The only up to date tomes are in Spanish only, Guía del Turismo del Vino by Anaya and Guía del Turismo del Vino by Los Libros del Rayo (for those reading this who read Spanish). Both can be purchased at the Museo Dinastía Vivanco gift shop.
I'm working now on an update of my Rioja guide to reflect new opening hrs, prices, new wineries, contacts, etc.
Yes, you must do your homework, as most ALL wineries require advanced reservations (3 exceptions: Heredad Ugarte in Páganos, El Fabulista in underground Laguardia)
A tip to help you with this homework:
EMAIL the tourist office for Rioja and the office for the Rioja Alavesa (they work separely, in different autonomous regions) and CALL the tourist office in Laguardia.
Ask Rioja for its very handy, current brochure, "Wine Tourism in La Rioja". These tomes are all you need to set up your visits, along with a good map, so that you make winery appointments within a short driving distance of each other.
[email protected]
Ask the Alavesa for their fantastic booklet, "Ruta del Vino Rioja Alavesa, All a Pleasure".
[email protected]
Ask Laguardia to fax you a copy of their Lugares de Interés list, with opening hrs. and emails of all area wineries.
Call 945 600 845 or email [email protected].
But don't try to overdo, as Robert says.
It's best to plan 2 winery visits per day, followed by a leisurely late lunch. Life moves SLOWLY in the Rioja!
3 visits are possible (a 10 am, noon or 1:30 and a 5 or 6 pm), but after a hearty Riojan lunch, you won't want to do much winery touring!
But you can alternate wine tourism with cultural visits to pilgrims; staging post at Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Monasteries of Yuso/Suso in San Millán de la Cogolla, the Romanesque Abby at Cañas, the magnificent Santa María la Real in Nájera, the charming villages of the Cameros Valley to the south of Logroño.
If you only have a couple of days, I strongly suggest that you choose one state-of-the-art, architecturally stunning winery, one ultra traditional, French method, iconic winery, one small, family owned winery and one to see underground Laguardia,
along with a visit to the unmissable Museo de Cultura del Vino Dinastía Vivanco (reserve there btw 10:15 and 10:30 and get the audio guide-allow a couple of hours).
The Center of Interpretation of Rioja Wine in Haro has just been redone-not an equal to Vivanco, but interesting nonetheless.
Avant-garde, architectural masterpieces:
Ysios (Calatrava), Baigorri (Iñaki Aspiazu), Viña Real (Philippe Mazieres), Juan Alcorta (Ignacio Quemada)
French-style, ultra traditional, coupled with cutting edge architecture (kills two birds with one stone):
Marqués de Riscal (Gehry) and López de Heredia (Zaha Hadid)
Traditional icons:
Muga and CVNE in Haro, Marqués de Murrieta in Logroño, Granja Nuestra Sra. de Remelluri in Labastida for tour/lunch.
Small, family owned:
Miguel Merino in Briones (delightful!), Bodegas de la Marquesa in Villabuena (ditto), Puelles in Abalos (also a beautiful little inn), Finca Valpiedra in Fuenmayor (followed by lunch at Alameda), Heredad Ugarte in Páganos (followed by lunch at Héctor Oribe).
In the summer of '09 H. Ugarte will open a new 12 room inn and wine therapy spa with gorgeous views of the vineyards.
For underground Laguardia, visit
Carlos Sampedro or El Fabulista.
If you'd like personalized visits with guide, contact Carol at Thabuca in Labastida, but you'll pay for her services and time. She arranged the visits/lunches for our group as a personal favor because we work with her.
www.thabuca.com
For the Ribera del Duero, entrance is more difficult, as wine tourism has not developed as quickly. It's still waiting for its "Napa-fication". ALL wineries require prior appts.
A new company, Destino Duero, arranges visits, but their web site is in Spanish only. Also Vintage Spain serves this region well.
www.destinoduero.com
www.vintagespain.com
Scenery wise (and architecturally), the Ribera del Duero just can't match
the enchanting Rioja. You won't be blown away by the dry and dusty scenery, and it's hot as Hades in summer! And Norman Foster's Bodegas Portia is far from being completed.
For winery visits, I would choose among Peñalba López at Torremilanos (also hotel) outside of Aranda de Duero
www.torremilanos.com
Arzuaga Navarro in Quintanilla de On[esimo, also with hotel.
www.arzuaganavarro.com
Brand new Emina in Valbuena de Duero
Alejandro Fernández or Emilio Moro in Pesquera de Duero.
The venerable Vega Sicilia doesn't give visits.
The Haciendas de España is a new group of wine hotels, two of which are located in or near the Ribera del Duero.
www.haciendas-espana.com
Hope that gets you started and have fun planning!
We just returned from a second visit to Marqués de Riscal; on our first we dined in the restaurant whose kitchen is supervised by Paniego of Michelin starred Echaurren in Elciego and took a tour of the hotel-Caudalie spa with the marketing director.
This time we took friends on thewinery visit, which they really enjoyed. It gives you a chance to enjoy the spectacular architecture of Gehry's hotel up close and personal.
After the tour you can go to the hotel bar for a drink or have lunch at the restaurant (always with a prior reservation!!!). You do need advance reservations for the winery tour. We took the first English tour at 10 am; cost was €10 with 2 tastings (not so great-the run of the mill Rueda white but a better red). Guide was cute.
Even the most recent guides/booklets in English available in the US aren't up to date now, as the winery scene is changing so dramatically and so rapidly. The only up to date tomes are in Spanish only, Guía del Turismo del Vino by Anaya and Guía del Turismo del Vino by Los Libros del Rayo (for those reading this who read Spanish). Both can be purchased at the Museo Dinastía Vivanco gift shop.
I'm working now on an update of my Rioja guide to reflect new opening hrs, prices, new wineries, contacts, etc.
Yes, you must do your homework, as most ALL wineries require advanced reservations (3 exceptions: Heredad Ugarte in Páganos, El Fabulista in underground Laguardia)
A tip to help you with this homework:
EMAIL the tourist office for Rioja and the office for the Rioja Alavesa (they work separely, in different autonomous regions) and CALL the tourist office in Laguardia.
Ask Rioja for its very handy, current brochure, "Wine Tourism in La Rioja". These tomes are all you need to set up your visits, along with a good map, so that you make winery appointments within a short driving distance of each other.
[email protected]
Ask the Alavesa for their fantastic booklet, "Ruta del Vino Rioja Alavesa, All a Pleasure".
[email protected]
Ask Laguardia to fax you a copy of their Lugares de Interés list, with opening hrs. and emails of all area wineries.
Call 945 600 845 or email [email protected].
But don't try to overdo, as Robert says.
It's best to plan 2 winery visits per day, followed by a leisurely late lunch. Life moves SLOWLY in the Rioja!
3 visits are possible (a 10 am, noon or 1:30 and a 5 or 6 pm), but after a hearty Riojan lunch, you won't want to do much winery touring!
But you can alternate wine tourism with cultural visits to pilgrims; staging post at Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Monasteries of Yuso/Suso in San Millán de la Cogolla, the Romanesque Abby at Cañas, the magnificent Santa María la Real in Nájera, the charming villages of the Cameros Valley to the south of Logroño.
If you only have a couple of days, I strongly suggest that you choose one state-of-the-art, architecturally stunning winery, one ultra traditional, French method, iconic winery, one small, family owned winery and one to see underground Laguardia,
along with a visit to the unmissable Museo de Cultura del Vino Dinastía Vivanco (reserve there btw 10:15 and 10:30 and get the audio guide-allow a couple of hours).
The Center of Interpretation of Rioja Wine in Haro has just been redone-not an equal to Vivanco, but interesting nonetheless.
Avant-garde, architectural masterpieces:
Ysios (Calatrava), Baigorri (Iñaki Aspiazu), Viña Real (Philippe Mazieres), Juan Alcorta (Ignacio Quemada)
French-style, ultra traditional, coupled with cutting edge architecture (kills two birds with one stone):
Marqués de Riscal (Gehry) and López de Heredia (Zaha Hadid)
Traditional icons:
Muga and CVNE in Haro, Marqués de Murrieta in Logroño, Granja Nuestra Sra. de Remelluri in Labastida for tour/lunch.
Small, family owned:
Miguel Merino in Briones (delightful!), Bodegas de la Marquesa in Villabuena (ditto), Puelles in Abalos (also a beautiful little inn), Finca Valpiedra in Fuenmayor (followed by lunch at Alameda), Heredad Ugarte in Páganos (followed by lunch at Héctor Oribe).
In the summer of '09 H. Ugarte will open a new 12 room inn and wine therapy spa with gorgeous views of the vineyards.
For underground Laguardia, visit
Carlos Sampedro or El Fabulista.
If you'd like personalized visits with guide, contact Carol at Thabuca in Labastida, but you'll pay for her services and time. She arranged the visits/lunches for our group as a personal favor because we work with her.
www.thabuca.com
For the Ribera del Duero, entrance is more difficult, as wine tourism has not developed as quickly. It's still waiting for its "Napa-fication". ALL wineries require prior appts.
A new company, Destino Duero, arranges visits, but their web site is in Spanish only. Also Vintage Spain serves this region well.
www.destinoduero.com
www.vintagespain.com
Scenery wise (and architecturally), the Ribera del Duero just can't match
the enchanting Rioja. You won't be blown away by the dry and dusty scenery, and it's hot as Hades in summer! And Norman Foster's Bodegas Portia is far from being completed.
For winery visits, I would choose among Peñalba López at Torremilanos (also hotel) outside of Aranda de Duero
www.torremilanos.com
Arzuaga Navarro in Quintanilla de On[esimo, also with hotel.
www.arzuaganavarro.com
Brand new Emina in Valbuena de Duero
Alejandro Fernández or Emilio Moro in Pesquera de Duero.
The venerable Vega Sicilia doesn't give visits.
The Haciendas de España is a new group of wine hotels, two of which are located in or near the Ribera del Duero.
www.haciendas-espana.com
Hope that gets you started and have fun planning!
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Apr 4th, 2008 | 12:01 PM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
Julie,
Forgot to mention-
Ask the Rioja tourist office ([email protected]) to send you their Restaurants of the Rioja brochures, one for countryside, the other for Logroño.
The province guide lists restaurants by town, type of cuisine and by price, along with phone. This is great for dining on the fly.
For example, you find yourself in Casalarreina at lunch time (1:30-3:30) after visiting Santo Domingo de la Calzada and need a fine dining spot-you'll find La Cueva de Doña Isabela and La Vieja Bodega, both highly atmospheric, in this brochure. During the week, you can snag a table without reservation.
But for Restaurants Alameda, Venta de Moncalvillo, Echaurren, Riscal, you need to call several days in advance for weekend reservations.
Forgot to mention-
Ask the Rioja tourist office ([email protected]) to send you their Restaurants of the Rioja brochures, one for countryside, the other for Logroño.
The province guide lists restaurants by town, type of cuisine and by price, along with phone. This is great for dining on the fly.
For example, you find yourself in Casalarreina at lunch time (1:30-3:30) after visiting Santo Domingo de la Calzada and need a fine dining spot-you'll find La Cueva de Doña Isabela and La Vieja Bodega, both highly atmospheric, in this brochure. During the week, you can snag a table without reservation.
But for Restaurants Alameda, Venta de Moncalvillo, Echaurren, Riscal, you need to call several days in advance for weekend reservations.
Apr 4th, 2008 | 01:00 PM
#11
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
You're welcome, you're welcome 
Since I just returned from the Rioja D.O.C., this info is fresh in my mind. Now, I just have to compile it and update my Rioja guide.
Another tip:
When arranging visits, organize each day carefully according to the winery locations (and choose a strategically central hotel for your stay).
For example, a 10 am English tour at Muga in Haro can be followed by a 12:15 visit to Remelluri followed by lunch either at the winery (they will take you provided they have at least 20 lunch reservations that day) or at Ariño, but you'll want to return to Haro for an hour's tour of the town.
or do an am visit to López de Heredia in Haro (open 9-12) followed by a visit to the Center of Interpretation of Wine (10-2) followed by lunch at Las Duelas at the Hotel Los Agustinos or Ariño in Labastida.
After lunch you could do a driving tour of these sleepy little villages, with their beautiful sandstone manor homes with coats of arms still intact:
Briñas, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Briones plus the castle ruins of Davalillo.
But you don't want a 10 am visit to Muga followed by the noon visit to Heredad Ugarte in Páganos. Can't make it.
Leave plenty of time for arriving and parking, sampling, purchasing, strolling around the towns between visits.
Plan another day to do the loop
Laguardia-Elciego-Villabuena-
Samaniego-Laguardia.
Another to do Logroño and vicinity. A tapas crawl down Calle Laurel is always fun around 9 pm.
Another (break from wineries) to do the Monastery/Pilgrims' route of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Cañas, San Millán de la Cogolla (the cradle of the Castilian language) and Nájera.
Now, I'll shut up and leave you to your planning!
Since I just returned from the Rioja D.O.C., this info is fresh in my mind. Now, I just have to compile it and update my Rioja guide.
Another tip:
When arranging visits, organize each day carefully according to the winery locations (and choose a strategically central hotel for your stay).
For example, a 10 am English tour at Muga in Haro can be followed by a 12:15 visit to Remelluri followed by lunch either at the winery (they will take you provided they have at least 20 lunch reservations that day) or at Ariño, but you'll want to return to Haro for an hour's tour of the town.
or do an am visit to López de Heredia in Haro (open 9-12) followed by a visit to the Center of Interpretation of Wine (10-2) followed by lunch at Las Duelas at the Hotel Los Agustinos or Ariño in Labastida.
After lunch you could do a driving tour of these sleepy little villages, with their beautiful sandstone manor homes with coats of arms still intact:
Briñas, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Briones plus the castle ruins of Davalillo.
But you don't want a 10 am visit to Muga followed by the noon visit to Heredad Ugarte in Páganos. Can't make it.
Leave plenty of time for arriving and parking, sampling, purchasing, strolling around the towns between visits.
Plan another day to do the loop
Laguardia-Elciego-Villabuena-
Samaniego-Laguardia.
Another to do Logroño and vicinity. A tapas crawl down Calle Laurel is always fun around 9 pm.
Another (break from wineries) to do the Monastery/Pilgrims' route of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Cañas, San Millán de la Cogolla (the cradle of the Castilian language) and Nájera.
Now, I'll shut up and leave you to your planning!
Apr 6th, 2008 | 03:37 PM
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
escrunchy,
I just ordered the brand new FREE '08 guide from Wines From Spain.
Just discovered they have a new guide out. The order form says it takes 6-8 weeks for delivery, but in the past I haven't had to wait that long.
Here's the order form:
http://66.70.170.191/spanwine.htm
Julie,
If you do include the Ribera del Duero in your wine touring adventures, here are the web links for some recommended wineries:
In Burgos province:
Peñalba López in Aranda de Duero
www.torremilanos.com
(but don't stay in their hotel in late June, as the bedrooms don't have a/c!)
López Cristóbal in Roa
(recommended by Madrid's Planeta Vino as one of the most welcoming)
www.lopezcristobal.com
Carmelo Rodero in Pedrosa
www.bodegasrodero.com
In Valladolid province:
Emina (new Wine Interpretation Center plus restaurant) in Valbuena
www.emina.es
Alejandro Fernández in Pesquera
www.pesqueraafernandez.com
Emilio Moro in Pesquera
www.emiliomoro.com
Arzuaga Navarro in Quintanilla de Onésimo (with 5 star hotel)
www.arzuaganavarro.com
Again, visits are only done with a pre-scheduled appointment here, as the wineries need to arrange in advance for an English-speaking guide.
Speaking of great architecture and wineries, Norman Foster's design for Bodegas Portia is meant to do for the Ribera del Duero (and Faustino) what Gehry's project has done for Rioja's Marqués de Riscal.
See his design here
www.bodegas
I just ordered the brand new FREE '08 guide from Wines From Spain.
Just discovered they have a new guide out. The order form says it takes 6-8 weeks for delivery, but in the past I haven't had to wait that long.
Here's the order form:
http://66.70.170.191/spanwine.htm
Julie,
If you do include the Ribera del Duero in your wine touring adventures, here are the web links for some recommended wineries:
In Burgos province:
Peñalba López in Aranda de Duero
www.torremilanos.com
(but don't stay in their hotel in late June, as the bedrooms don't have a/c!)
López Cristóbal in Roa
(recommended by Madrid's Planeta Vino as one of the most welcoming)
www.lopezcristobal.com
Carmelo Rodero in Pedrosa
www.bodegasrodero.com
In Valladolid province:
Emina (new Wine Interpretation Center plus restaurant) in Valbuena
www.emina.es
Alejandro Fernández in Pesquera
www.pesqueraafernandez.com
Emilio Moro in Pesquera
www.emiliomoro.com
Arzuaga Navarro in Quintanilla de Onésimo (with 5 star hotel)
www.arzuaganavarro.com
Again, visits are only done with a pre-scheduled appointment here, as the wineries need to arrange in advance for an English-speaking guide.
Speaking of great architecture and wineries, Norman Foster's design for Bodegas Portia is meant to do for the Ribera del Duero (and Faustino) what Gehry's project has done for Rioja's Marqués de Riscal.
See his design here
www.bodegas
Apr 7th, 2008 | 10:22 AM
#14
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Excellent recommendations by Maribel, just a little note: if you happen to stay at a rural house in any of these areas, (a very good option since it´s cheap, cozy and warmer than a hotel), many have a wine cellar underneath that has been excavated by the owner´s ancestors and you can visit it at no cost. You can check at www.nekatur.net or www.toprural.com.
If you have time and since you will be close, there´s a Basque young wine, Txakoli, with a very particular taste and made from a local grape (red or white) with some interesting visits as well.
If you have time and since you will be close, there´s a Basque young wine, Txakoli, with a very particular taste and made from a local grape (red or white) with some interesting visits as well.
Apr 7th, 2008 | 11:05 AM
#15
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
Hi mikelg,
Sorry to have given away your favorite secret dining spot, Jose Mari O
I remembered it from our Nov. conversations, so we took our friends there on Easter Saturday, and they loved it, despite our not being able to get a reservation until 4 pm (they were just swamped).
Since it was snowing, we couldn't enjoy the outdoor terrace, but that roast lamb proved delicious, none the less.
Always file away for future reference a restaurant recommendation from a Basque!!
Speaking of the great Basque white wine, txakolí...
At the tourist office in Laguardia I picked up a "Ruta del Txakolí de Bizkaia" brochure suggesting visits to the following wineries in the Vizcaya province of the Basque Country (handy to Bilbao):
Bodega Berroja in Muxika
(visits in English)
www.bodegaberroja.com
Bodega Doniene Gorrondona in Bakio, whose lady enologist we all met at the Txakolí Museum in Leioa. I love their barrel fermented white. They're now making a bubbly (espumoso) plus a spirit (orujo).
(visits in English)
www.donienegorrondona.com
Bodega Itsasmendi in Gernika, whose Itsasmendi 7 has won several awards
(visits in English)
www.bodegasitsasmendi.com
Bodega Iturrialde in Larrabetzu, with a gourmet restaurant, Azurmendi.
www.azurmendi.biz
Bodega Merrutxu in Ibarrangelua.
This is also a "casa rural", member of Nekatur, that Mikel refers to, near Llaida and Laga beaches in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, north of Gernika
(English visit)
www.merrutxu.com
And read all about txakolí here:
www.bizkaikotxakolina.org
Sorry to have given away your favorite secret dining spot, Jose Mari O
I remembered it from our Nov. conversations, so we took our friends there on Easter Saturday, and they loved it, despite our not being able to get a reservation until 4 pm (they were just swamped).
Since it was snowing, we couldn't enjoy the outdoor terrace, but that roast lamb proved delicious, none the less.
Always file away for future reference a restaurant recommendation from a Basque!!
Speaking of the great Basque white wine, txakolí...
At the tourist office in Laguardia I picked up a "Ruta del Txakolí de Bizkaia" brochure suggesting visits to the following wineries in the Vizcaya province of the Basque Country (handy to Bilbao):
Bodega Berroja in Muxika
(visits in English)
www.bodegaberroja.com
Bodega Doniene Gorrondona in Bakio, whose lady enologist we all met at the Txakolí Museum in Leioa. I love their barrel fermented white. They're now making a bubbly (espumoso) plus a spirit (orujo).
(visits in English)
www.donienegorrondona.com
Bodega Itsasmendi in Gernika, whose Itsasmendi 7 has won several awards
(visits in English)
www.bodegasitsasmendi.com
Bodega Iturrialde in Larrabetzu, with a gourmet restaurant, Azurmendi.
www.azurmendi.biz
Bodega Merrutxu in Ibarrangelua.
This is also a "casa rural", member of Nekatur, that Mikel refers to, near Llaida and Laga beaches in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, north of Gernika
(English visit)
www.merrutxu.com
And read all about txakolí here:
www.bizkaikotxakolina.org
Apr 7th, 2008 | 11:26 AM
#16
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Maribel, you took the words right out of my mouth...I was preparing a similar list to yours. Regarding txakoli, we can´t forget the Arabako Txakolina (txakoli from another Basque province, Araba, to which part of the Rioja region belongs), with Beldio and Xarmant as main producers (Xarmant is currently exporting to the US, I´ve met the owner several times), www.txakolidealava.com. And of course, the famous txakoli from Gipuzkoa, the other Basque province.
Itsasmendi has part of its vineyards right in front of my house.
Itsasmendi has part of its vineyards right in front of my house.
Apr 7th, 2008 | 11:37 AM
#17
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
Yep, we drink Xarmant from Araba at our favorite Basque bar, Txori, here in Seattle!
We're lucky to be able to purchase several txakolí labels here at The Spanish Table. That way, we don't miss out while we're away from the Basque Country!
We're lucky to be able to purchase several txakolí labels here at The Spanish Table. That way, we don't miss out while we're away from the Basque Country!
Apr 11th, 2008 | 06:09 PM
#19
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Hi we just returned from Ribera del duero area. Stayed in Penafeil at Convento las Claras. very nice. Had a fantastic lunch at Cepa 21. one of Emilio Moros ventures. Very Ultra modern building. You should book ahead but they take drop ins as well. They also have a tasting bar that serves Tapas as well. We found an incredible wine stor in Penafeil.
Apr 11th, 2008 | 07:49 PM
#20
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,662
Likes: 0
Hi weasel,
Glad you enjoyed your stay.
I was just reading an article on Ribera del Duero from the travel section of the LA Times whose writer and daughter stayed at 4 star Convento Las Claras. I've also heard great reports about Cepa 21 in Castrillo de Duero.
For those contemplating a leisurely stroll through the Ribera del Duero:
Another lodging option in the area is Fuente de la Aceña, a completely renovated flour mill redone in contemporary style, in tiny, quiet Quintanilla de Onésimo (where Arzuaga is located), further west on the road to Valladolid. Each room has access to a private deck overlooking the river. It's used by Vintage Spain wine tours.
Glad you enjoyed your stay.
I was just reading an article on Ribera del Duero from the travel section of the LA Times whose writer and daughter stayed at 4 star Convento Las Claras. I've also heard great reports about Cepa 21 in Castrillo de Duero.
For those contemplating a leisurely stroll through the Ribera del Duero:
Another lodging option in the area is Fuente de la Aceña, a completely renovated flour mill redone in contemporary style, in tiny, quiet Quintanilla de Onésimo (where Arzuaga is located), further west on the road to Valladolid. Each room has access to a private deck overlooking the river. It's used by Vintage Spain wine tours.
