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Day 8: we awoke early to go to see the mosaics at Cathedral di Santa Maria at a quiet time, as it opens at 8 am and we were almost alone to admire the magnificent floor. We returned to Masseria Longa for another delicious breakfast with fluffy pancakes, too, and received a lovely gift at checkout. Drove to Rende, Italy through glorious mountain scenery and, actually on mountain roads, as we tried to stop at Gole deli Ragenello. The roads through the mountains were rigorous, and the scenery breathtaking, with panoramic views, gorges and valleys. We arrived in Rende after about 4 hours at Home52 B&B which was clean and well-equipped, but very basic, with few instructions, no staff in-person, and not the most comfortable bed nor pillows. We had a delicious dinner next door at ilMinervini with a delightful waitress. Breakfast only was a giftcard for coffee and pastry at the cafe next door.

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Day 9: we had a quick espresso and croissant next door and left for our trip to Sicily. Initially, thought we would stop in Scilla, but it was too difficult to maneuver tight, hilly streets with no real apparent parking. We got to the ferry, and even though our ticket was booked for later, we were able to take it earlier, arriving in Sicily about noon. We drove to Hotel Casa Adele in Taormina, with some help getting up a hilly street. The Hotel is lovely, large room, elevator, parking. We ate a delicious lunch right next to the hotel @ Malvasia, ravioli with shrimp and pistachio and a pasta and clam entree. We walked the main street, which was not very crowded, albeit tourist stores abound. Used our tour book to note some sights as we went to the Teatro Greco. Found the Jewish Ghetto area and a marker of a family that had perished. Across from our hotel was a famous cannoli La Pignolata and it was divine! We were full and no other dinner ensued.

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Day 10: We moved our car to a parking garage, since we were taking the day trip to Mt. Etna and were checking out of Hotel Casa Adele, where we had a delicious breakfast. Our guide, Francesco, arranged through Alexei at Journey Beyond Travel, picked us up at the hotel. He had been in communication with us the day before watching the ever-changing weather at Mt. Etna and looking at options if needed. He was engaging and personable and we became instant friends. Drove to Mt. Etna, where the weather was perfect for our hike to Monti Sartorius with poles provided for us. We were gingerly, and thoughtfully, guided up the trail by Francesco, who took our needs into account. We were amazed to view the crater and Nebrodi and Peloritani mountains. We were educated regarding the beautiful Etna Birch trees and the old growth pine forest. We then visited the Grotta del Ladroni lava flow cave and Francesco told us all about cave formations and history details. With his help, I was able to climb into the cave. All of this would not have been possible for us without him guiding us. A delicious lunch was then enjoyed, with special sharing of thoughts and feelings. He offered to have us follow him from Taormina to Siracusa and Ortigia, got us to the location for us to unload and give our car to valet protected parking, which we felt was worth it to us in this island because public parking was at the other end of the island and we were tired. He settled us into our glorious apartment at Palazzo Alfeo, on the water, where we were being serenaded by an accordionist he knew and treated by the hotel's wonderful Ilse.

virginiafish

Thank you for suggesting her!

abqdeb

We are booked at Masseria Aprile in October. So happy you liked it! I love following your adventure.

virginiafish

Day 11: Made breakfast in our apartment, sitting on our patio watching the sun bathe our view and people slowly awakening, walking and taking runs along the water. We walked to the San Filippo Apostolo Underground, stopping at the Jewish book store across the street first. We got our tickets for the underground tour and had a small snack before. This 30 minute tour takes you underground 3 levels (60 feet) and uncovers over 2,000 years of history to a crypt, an air-raid shelter and a mikvah. It was fascinating. The steps are steep, but there are rope railings. We strolled through Ortigia, using Rick Steve's guide for his 10 points walking tour, going to about 7, weaving in and out of the streets of Ortigia. Stopping at a La Sciccheria Restaurant Pizzeria, we shared a delicious pizza and salad with red oranges, olives, anchovies. Continued walking tour and some gelato. Stopped at Cafe Piazza Archimede for an expresso (one with ginseng) and some cookies. We had tickets for the 4:30 puppet show. Prior to entering the show, we visited the shop across the street where they create puppets. Teatro del Pupi performs a traditional saga, telling the story, which will be performed in Italian, in English beforehand. The presentation and effects are amazing! After walking along the water to our sea view patio, we relaxed, listening to the accordianist and watching the glorious sunset.

trebizond

Will this be 2 or 3 weeks? Sounds amazing, was contemplating this for September i.e. southern Italy, and ?Sicily.

virginiafish

Day 12: Francesco, our guide provided through Alexei at Journey Beyond Travel, picked us up and drove us to Ragusa. It was a scenic drive. We visited the lower part of Ragusa, Ragusa Ilba, saw impressive Baroque balconies, the Piazza of the Cathedral of San Giorgio, with its impressive wrought iron gate. In Giardino Ibleo, roses and other flowers were in bloom and a relaxing stroll ensued. Francesco explained the history of the town and the buildings. Then, we were driven to Modica through beautiful rural landscapes. In Modica, Francesco shared the sad history of 1474 when over 300 Jewish people were massacred. He showed us the commemorative plates that are on the sidewalk for some the military and Jewish people who perished. He felt this is just the beginning of the memorialization that would be kind to occur. Antica Dolceria was our next delicious stop, where we learned about the oldest, most famous chocolate shop which produces healthy chocolate, with no fat added. We had a thorough presentation and tasting, saw the grinding stone and ate some delicious cannolis. Then, onward to Noto, a beautiful small city rebuilt after being destroyed in 1693 by an earthquake. Francesco helps history come alive! It was a busy Sunday and we saw the preview for Infiorata di Noto, a full street floor covered with multicolored petals forming huge patterns. This was the preview/practice for the event that would take place next Sunday. We admired Piazza Municipio, side streets with intricate balconies, and enormous residences covered with sweet smelling jasmine. Returning to Ortigia, due to a festival occurring, we had the pleasure of roaming home after saying goodbye to our wonderful guide and friend. We absolutely could not have enjoyed these towns, and this countryside, with him!

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Day 13: Coffee on our patio for our last day in Ortigia. Headed off to the Ortigia Street Market, passing the Temple of Apollo on our way. Enjoyed the sights, and aromas, and sat to eat at Baio Riccardo, a small cafe, and enjoy some men proud of their freshly caught squids. Purchased some snacks and anchovies, etc. Went to visit mikvah #2 at Casa Bianca. Unfortunately, we missed the last morning tours and would need to wait 2 hours. Having to drive to Messina today, we had to move onward, return to our apartment, retrieve the car and go to Villa Pulejo, where, when we arrived, we showered and changed and had our prearranged dinner there. Dinner was in an elegant dining room with a hand painted ceiling. We asked about the ferry for tomorrow, and were told it was 5 minutes away, so we could have breakfast at 8.

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Day 14 & 15: After an ample, delicious breakfast, we left to go to "the" ferry. As it turned out, there was more than one ferry embarkment in Messina. We went to the one close by, it was not the correct dock, and we got lost, costing us about another 45 minutes, got the to dock that was about 30 minutes from the hotel. Unfortunately, the hotel staff had not fully informed us that there were 2 choices, which is difficult to understand, because the ferry service we were using was the main one people use to get across the straits. The about 5 hour drive to Ercolano, was through gorgeous mountain scenery. It was an easy. pleasant trip. We had hoped to visit Herculaneum, but got there too late. Ercolano was a busy city to drive through and we arrived at Il Giardino dei Glicini Bed and Breakfast. We were tired and the owner, Franco, drove us a wonderful restaurant, La Fornacella, where we inhaled a delicious octopus appetizer, spaghetti with pesto sauce and mussels, and a sea bass dish and dessert. Franco returned to drive us home, we slept well and at 7, he presented us with a beautiful breakfast, as we wanted to leave early to return our car and check in for our flight home. Sad to leave to Italy, wonderfully welcoming, kind people and a relaxing, gentle holiday.