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Old Dec 10th, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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southern Italy

We are planning on flying into Naples and spending a few days in Sorrento, then Amalfi, then going down to Palermo. Does that sound good? Should we stay in Amalfi or Positano?
or should we not pick 2 places so close together (Sorento and Amalfi)? Then is it reasonable to drive down the coast to Palermo or should we drop off the car, take the ferry and pick up a new car? This is all foreign to me.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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If you want to do one base Positano is better located if day tripping out of the Amalfi to like Pompeii or Capri as it is farther west - but if just wanting to dwell on the Amalfi either one is neat - I loved Amalfi but you can't go wrong.

Sorrento is a nice watering hole but not directly on the sea and lacking the romance inherent in a Positano or Amalfi, signature romantic seaside towns that just seem more whatever than a pleasant Sorrento but not nothing like the Amalfi towns - Sorrento is more utilitarian a base however for day trips to Capril, Ischia or Pompeii or even to ascend Mt Vesuivus to the crater!

Try taking the world-famous Amalfi Coast buses - one of the world's thrill rides as it goes along a cliff - driving here can be hectic and the driver must keep his/her eyes peeled on the sinuous road and cant; see much of the scintillating scenery.

Boats are faster perhaps but do the bus at least say between Positano and Amalfi - no need for a car here - save on the rental.

There is also an overnight train rolling between Naples, Salerno and several points in Sicily - I've taken it and private compartments can be sweet and even romantic - bring anything you want on board - the ferry is similarly neat - both save on a night in a hotel.

For great info on the Amalfi Coast, Italian trains and overnight trains check www.trenitalia.com (Italian Railways site - book well in advance for nifty discounted tickets on longer routes); www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com; www.seat61.com - great info on discounted tickets.

I've taken day trains between Messina (Sicily) and Naples and though the scenery is interesting I'd not rate it really scenic.If going straight thru it's a long long drive.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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I cannot thank you enough. That was very helpful.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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kja
 
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"We are planning on flying into Naples and spending a few days in Sorrento, then Amalfi ... Should we stay in Amalfi or Positano? or should we not pick 2 places so close together (Sorento and Amalfi)?"

It really depends on what you want to see and experience. I don't mind changing locations frequently (though many people do), but I wouldn't necessary pick both Sorrento and Amalfi. If you want to visit dynamic, energetic Naples, then consider staying there for a few nights. If you want to visit Capri, consider an overnight there, as it is much more enjoyable IME after day-trippers leave. If you want to focus your time and energies on the Amalfi Coast per se, then PalenQ has given some great insights into how your options vary.

"Then is it reasonable to drive down the coast to Palermo or should we drop off the car, take the ferry and pick up a new car?"

For many purposes, a car would be a disadvantage on the Amalfi Coast. It certainly would not be the most efficient way to get from there to Palermo.

"then going down to Palermo"

You don't mention your time frames, but I trust you realize that Sicily is best seen with a minimum of 2 weeks? If you have less time than that, you will need to be EXTREMELY selective.


I recommend that you get some good guidebooks (or spend some time with a few in your local library), identify the things you most want to see in each location, note their opening/closing times, and mark them on a calendar. Then pencil in your transportation, add some time on either side (for getting to/from the train/bus station or whatever, checking in/out, packing/unpacking, getting oriented, etc.). Then see how things fit together. For the guidebooks, I strongly recommend the Rough Guide or Lonely Planet (which should cover your transportation options) as your primary resource. I would also recommend that you consult Fodor's, Frommer's, or the Michelin Green Guides to help prioritize and the National Geographic Traveler, Insight Guides, or Eyewitness for inspiration.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 10th, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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The stunning drama of Positano as it clings to cliffs hanging above the sea, is unmatched, IMHO.

Sorrento, however, is often under appreciated. It is a lovely seaside town with two nice marinas facing the bay of Naples on the Tyrannian sea. It make perfect sense for seeing Pompeii or Herculaneum (easy train ride) or day trips to Capri by ferry or to ferry down the AC for stops in Positano or Amalfi.

Staying in Sorrento 3 nts to sight see, and Amalfi 3 nts for the AC would be nice if you do not mind a change of hotels.

Naples, though a bit seedy for some people, is interesting and has some great museums and churches to explore.

You do not need a car for the AC and, unless you absolutely love driving on crowded twisty roads, there is no reason for a car.

Look at some maps. Check distances. Check travel times. Check costs for a car, gas, etc.

How much total time do you have for this trip? Sicily is large. Two weeks is just adequate for exploring Sicily, so unless the long, long drive from the AC has some places of special interest to you, like family history or something, I would either fly from Naples to Catania (or Palermo) or take the overnight ferry from Naples, arriving in Sicily at sunrise.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 12:28 AM
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A few things:

What time of year are you traveling? From May to October, the coastal road of the Amalfi can be an endless traffic jam and it can be better to use ferries. If you are going before April, go ahead and rent a car if you don't mind driving along a cliff road.

If you are traveling in summer, you can take a ferry to Palermo. Or fly. Driving there is a pain. So is taking the train.

If you can afford it, then it would be better to land in Naples airport and get a car transfer to the coast. Spend the time there that you want, then switch to Sorrento. If you are using Sorrento as a base to see Pompei, just go to Pompei instead and stay there (or Napoli).

There is nothing wrong with going to any region of Italy and spending less than two weeks there. It is a ridiculous idea to think that just because Sicily is an island that you shouldn't go unless you try to see the whole thing at once. It doesn't take "two weeks" to see Sicily. It takes two months at least. There is plenty to enjoy in Palermo for a week or less, and it is nearby towns and sights of tremendous interest. By all means go to as much of Sicily as you have time to see and enjoy it. You don't hear people scolding other people for going to the Veneto and seeing Venice and Verona and not seeing the whole region. People have crazy dogmas they apply to Italian travel that are only crazy.

Have a great trip!
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 12:44 AM
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kja
 
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"If you can afford it, then it would be better to land in Naples airport and get a car transfer to the coast."

This advice may be great for some travelers. It would NOT be <B>MY</B> choice: I actually PREFER taking local transportation to riding in a bubble. YMMV.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 02:37 AM
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"Sorrento is a nice watering hole but not directly on the sea". Last time I looked it was.

It appears from your post that you will rent a car from the airport in Naples and then head to the AC. Unless you are going to Pompeii, then Positano would be my choice of base camp. A lot is made about driving the road along the AC in summer, but we've done it lots of times and whilst it is always busy, it's not impossibly so. Yes the road is windy and when coaches come the other way you have to be careful, but it's not impossible to enjoy the drive. We've also always managed to park wherever we've stopped without too much hassle.

Correct me if I'm wrong (and Fodorites will), but I think I've heard that the rental companies don't allow you to take your mainland rented car across to Sicily. A one way rental from Naples to the ferry port will incur (usually) a further drop off charge.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 03:55 AM
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Sorrento is most certainly on the sea, and Positano is not a good base at all for visiting Pompeii. If you want to visit Pompeii, you can do so from Naples or from Sorrento, or, if you have time, you could even stop there on your way south. If you're traveling by train, they will hold your luggage while you visit.

Sorrento is also a good base for visiting Capri, and not bad for visiting the Amalfi Coast by bus or by boat.

You might want to consider taking the ferry from Naples to Sicily rather than driving. There's an overnight ferry that many people take. In that case, you might want to hold off on renting the car until you get to Sicily, as it's more of a nuisance than a convenience on the Amalfi Coast.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 04:34 AM
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Mostly agree with bv. As a base to visit other areas, Sorrento is good because of location and transportation options. And it ain't a bad place of visit overall.

Positano has a degree of charm (and lots of steps) that's lacking in Sorrento. I like Positano better than Amalfi, but that's just a matter of opinion.

You don't want to drive the Amalfi Coast, especially in high season. In particular, it's no fun for the driver.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 08:52 AM
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How much time do you have for this trip? What time of year?
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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I asgree that Sorrento alas not right on the sea but high above it can be a really neat place - it is my favored place to stay in the area because of its utilitarians aspect of being at the center of so so many neat places to day trip to - a lot more ferries to say Capri and Ischia than Positano and throughout the year - and Pomepii is only a few-minute train ride away.

At night Sorrento takes on a neat air as lots of folks are out on their stroll thru town - the main street is often thronged and I like that!

Even from Rome or Naples it is easier to get to than the Amalfi towns - trains to Naples from Rome in just over an hour or so and then the CircumVesuviana train in about an hour plus change to Sorrento.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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To the OP,
Of course you could enjoy even a very limited time in Sicily and I did not mean you should not go. What I intended to suggest (because Sicily is so beautiful and interesting, and with your time already being limited) is that, rather than eat up a lot of your vacation time doing a long drive to Sicily, you give yourself as much time as possible in Sicily by going directly by plane or overnight ferry.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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Whether you stay in Sorrento or somewhere ON the Amalfi Coast (i.e. Positano or Amalfi) depends on what you want to do while you are in the area.

If your main goal is to see Pompeii, Vesuvius, Naples and Capri, then Sorrento is a fine choice.

If your main goal is to relax and enjoy the gorgeous coastal scenery, visit Capri, Amalfi, Ravello and other villages on the AC, then Positano or Amalfi would make a better base. My choice is always Positano, due to the greater selection of restaurants and beaches and views and, frankly, it is a gorgeous village.

If you are traveling between May and September and want to stay somewhere on the AC (Positano/Amalfi) having a car is an expensive, time-consuming hassle.

If you are staying in Sorrento and visiting Vesuvius and Pompeii, then having a car would be less of a hassle, but still not necessary.

Hiring a driver to get you from NAP to your destination may be "riding in a bubble" but it has its advantages. You will be riding in the car with a local, who always (in my experience) has good stories, recommendations, tips. I can also stop when there is a view I want to take a picture of. We can also stop to purchase fruits/veggies/spices from any one of the many roadside trucks/stands.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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Agree with ekc's comments about hiring a driver.
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Old Dec 12th, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Curious - how much does hiring a private driver from say Naples to Positano cost - a ballpark average - I have no idea and it makes a difference to me and many how much does it cost. and yes it can be expensive and well worth the cost.
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Old Dec 12th, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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About 100E

Or, take Circumvesuviana to Sorrento and a 50E taxi from there. Getting door to door is big in Positano.
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Old Dec 12th, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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>>>Curious - how much does hiring a private driver from say Naples to Positano cost<<<

Since Naples taxis have a set fee to places on the coast, most private drivers will have prices similar to the taxis. Here's the pdf of the current taxi fees. Click the pdf in the center of the page labeled ordinary urban tariff. Naples to places along the coast are listed lower right side. Currently, Naples to Positano is 120€ - all inclusive (no add on for luggage or extra people).

http://www.comune.napoli.it/flex/cm/.../IDPagina/1193
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