So glad we went to Greece (and London always)
Apr 28th, 2016, 11:09 AM
#101
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Thank you so much, Virginia.
Yes, travjan! Claire said that when the Metro first came to Athens few could see the point and it ran mostly empty. That is so far from being the case now that I am glad our hotel was so close to what we wanted to see that we could walk. (Though cautiously on the slick and sometimes uneven marble.)
I had initially looked at apartments, and not knowing the town was tempted by some advertised as being near the Hilton or the American Embassy, implying that location guaranteed safety. On our way out on the X95, when I saw where the Hilton was, I was grateful once again for cozy Alice.
Yes, travjan! Claire said that when the Metro first came to Athens few could see the point and it ran mostly empty. That is so far from being the case now that I am glad our hotel was so close to what we wanted to see that we could walk. (Though cautiously on the slick and sometimes uneven marble.)
I had initially looked at apartments, and not knowing the town was tempted by some advertised as being near the Hilton or the American Embassy, implying that location guaranteed safety. On our way out on the X95, when I saw where the Hilton was, I was grateful once again for cozy Alice.
Apr 30th, 2016, 01:17 AM
#102
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"Mariha, just to add another insider factoid about the "artificial" tune & dance scene in Zorba ... Anthony Quinn couldn't dance at all, not even a waltz, and they had to labor to teach him the VERY simplest of steps for that scene"
TravelerJan, at least he tried
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jXiQs091As
TravelerJan, at least he tried
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jXiQs091As
Apr 30th, 2016, 01:53 AM
#103
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Stokebaily, Evaggelismos=Hilton area is not as bad as it seems on first sight, only a couple of metro stops from Syndagma/Plaka, X95 bus and metro from/to the airport and many posh or residential areas around with plenty of interesting eating and drinking options. I agree that it might not be so suitable for a first timer though.
Apr 30th, 2016, 10:45 AM
#104
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Yes, Mariha, and there are those of us who try and fail-fail-fail! I have 2 left feet when it comes to Greek dancing. But I LOOOVE that (unlike other nationalities)ALL Greek Men seem to love to dance & do it whenever they can. Maybe because they start so early. A TA Forum friend, Bill Barr . whos been going to Mykonos since 1970s, writes about sitting in the Lakka open-air theatre there in May, watching the "dance recital" of lower school. One of requirements apparently, is that these 12-yr-olds in their P.E. class are taught Greek dance & must show mastery of the 5 principal steps/styles. How wonderful!!!
Apr 30th, 2016, 03:23 PM
#105
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I still remember that evening very well, Jan. Returning from dinner up through the town I stumbled upon the dancing. I've always loved the little outdoor theatre and that evening it was all quite magical.
It was actually a mixture of children and adults dancing together and I was astonished that the youngsters were as proficient and skilled as the adults. Mentioning this to one of the family I know there, he told me that at all children are taught traditional Greek dancing at school and are graded on it.
Happy memories.
Bill
It was actually a mixture of children and adults dancing together and I was astonished that the youngsters were as proficient and skilled as the adults. Mentioning this to one of the family I know there, he told me that at all children are taught traditional Greek dancing at school and are graded on it.
Happy memories.
Bill
Apr 30th, 2016, 05:44 PM
#106
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Bill! my dear Bill! so glad to see you're keeping track on Fodor's these days. I have treasured that little story from you... it has tempted me to go back to Mykonos (day trip from Naxos). If you were there it would be for SURE.
Isn't this a wonderful Thread!! Earlier I suggested to the Original Poster that it be self-published as a book!!
Happy memories indeed!
Janet
Isn't this a wonderful Thread!! Earlier I suggested to the Original Poster that it be self-published as a book!!
Happy memories indeed!
Janet
May 1st, 2016, 10:42 AM
#107
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Now that's a fun video, mariha! So sweet the kiss on cheek and Quinn's little speech at the end. OK, now I'm going to have to watch the film.
I didn't mean to suggest anything about the Hilton area except that I was glad not to be obliged to ride the Metro. I got the impression it was lovely there, with more trees around, and possibilities for fine Acropolis views. I enjoy staying in a residential area for a more authentic experience, usually.
Love it, Bill and Jan, and love the Greeks for among other things teaching their children to dance. Thank you!
I didn't mean to suggest anything about the Hilton area except that I was glad not to be obliged to ride the Metro. I got the impression it was lovely there, with more trees around, and possibilities for fine Acropolis views. I enjoy staying in a residential area for a more authentic experience, usually.
Love it, Bill and Jan, and love the Greeks for among other things teaching their children to dance. Thank you!
Jun 5th, 2016, 04:56 PM
#108
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Speaking of not finishing reports, annhig. Will try briefly, if just for my own reference.
Back to London for five too-fleeting days.
British humor and another short line at Gatwick immigrations. Back to Victoria after midnight. Finally H agreed to a taxicab to Bloomsbury for her dorm and my hotel, and it was a bargain at 20 GBP. (Natural taxicab-taking situations are when I fear that we reared our girls too frugally.)
National Portrait Gallery, always worth a visit, and the small "Nudes" exhibit. I liked the commentaries and mix of media old and new. One caption indicated that the painter viewed his male subject with desire. I tried to sense the lust, with little success. Another subject filled the artist with non-desire; that I could see. There was an amusing photo of Leigh Bowery; lust was not mentioned one way or another, but he had a roguish eye.
Monday evening I took the 19 bus and met Hannah at The Almeida for "Uncle Vanya." It was so good, go-back-the-next-day good if we could have swung it. Paul Rhys, Tobias Menzies, and the young woman playing Sonja especially. Her speech at the end, my! Inventive rotating stage. Bargain tickets in the balcony. It was fun to get out to gentrified Islington, too.
I found a little shoe repair shop in the Sicilian Ave arcade, where in two days they stretched my short boots across the toes and replaced the heels. It would have taken the repairman weeks around here and cost a lot more. Londoners get their money's worth from shoe leather.
My only country walk turned out to be via 168 bus to Hampstead Heath. I regretted not having wellingtons for that walk, since the mud was deep and well mucked-up towards Kenwood House. Through still, magic woods on an alternative path that wound up to Parliament hilltop. The metal sign explaining skyline buildings is hopelessly out of date. They need something like a digital signboard updated monthly. Then down Parliament Hill St, where George Orwell at one time lived next to the heath.
Another day in the National Gallery I was sitting in front of "The Execution of Lady Jane Grey" when a tour guide led several youngish women up and started discussing the painting, after politely being sure it wouldn't bother me. He explained how the painting had been removed from the Tate when it flooded in the 1920's, then lost, presumed to have floated downstream. In the 1970's someone came upon it in the Nat'l Gallery basement, where it had been stowed in the confusion. He was talking about the drama of the painting when an Italian woman next to me called out, roguishly, "The executioner wants to do her before he kills her." "Unless he's gay." Said the guide. Those guys earn their money.
Back to London for five too-fleeting days.
British humor and another short line at Gatwick immigrations. Back to Victoria after midnight. Finally H agreed to a taxicab to Bloomsbury for her dorm and my hotel, and it was a bargain at 20 GBP. (Natural taxicab-taking situations are when I fear that we reared our girls too frugally.)
National Portrait Gallery, always worth a visit, and the small "Nudes" exhibit. I liked the commentaries and mix of media old and new. One caption indicated that the painter viewed his male subject with desire. I tried to sense the lust, with little success. Another subject filled the artist with non-desire; that I could see. There was an amusing photo of Leigh Bowery; lust was not mentioned one way or another, but he had a roguish eye.
Monday evening I took the 19 bus and met Hannah at The Almeida for "Uncle Vanya." It was so good, go-back-the-next-day good if we could have swung it. Paul Rhys, Tobias Menzies, and the young woman playing Sonja especially. Her speech at the end, my! Inventive rotating stage. Bargain tickets in the balcony. It was fun to get out to gentrified Islington, too.
I found a little shoe repair shop in the Sicilian Ave arcade, where in two days they stretched my short boots across the toes and replaced the heels. It would have taken the repairman weeks around here and cost a lot more. Londoners get their money's worth from shoe leather.
My only country walk turned out to be via 168 bus to Hampstead Heath. I regretted not having wellingtons for that walk, since the mud was deep and well mucked-up towards Kenwood House. Through still, magic woods on an alternative path that wound up to Parliament hilltop. The metal sign explaining skyline buildings is hopelessly out of date. They need something like a digital signboard updated monthly. Then down Parliament Hill St, where George Orwell at one time lived next to the heath.
Another day in the National Gallery I was sitting in front of "The Execution of Lady Jane Grey" when a tour guide led several youngish women up and started discussing the painting, after politely being sure it wouldn't bother me. He explained how the painting had been removed from the Tate when it flooded in the 1920's, then lost, presumed to have floated downstream. In the 1970's someone came upon it in the Nat'l Gallery basement, where it had been stowed in the confusion. He was talking about the drama of the painting when an Italian woman next to me called out, roguishly, "The executioner wants to do her before he kills her." "Unless he's gay." Said the guide. Those guys earn their money.
Jun 5th, 2016, 11:34 PM
#109
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I laugh out loud!
When I was last in London, I enjoyed London National Gallery a lot, although I am not extremely art-y person. The only thing that pester me is the school visits. I love the fact that teachers bring kids to museums and galleries and actually often make them join various assignments rather than just lecture them... but so often they were not conciderate to others and behave like they own the place or are the only visitors there. As a consequence, I visited places like the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery, the British museum two or three times just to check an exhibit I would not be otherwise able to enjoy. This is universal of course, not just a London issue and not only limited on school groups...
I am very glad this tour guide made sure they wouldn't bother you. Not many guides do this-unfortunately...
When I was last in London, I enjoyed London National Gallery a lot, although I am not extremely art-y person. The only thing that pester me is the school visits. I love the fact that teachers bring kids to museums and galleries and actually often make them join various assignments rather than just lecture them... but so often they were not conciderate to others and behave like they own the place or are the only visitors there. As a consequence, I visited places like the National Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery, the British museum two or three times just to check an exhibit I would not be otherwise able to enjoy. This is universal of course, not just a London issue and not only limited on school groups...
I am very glad this tour guide made sure they wouldn't bother you. Not many guides do this-unfortunately...
Jun 6th, 2016, 05:45 AM
#111
Glad to have spurred you on, Stoke!
On our last visit to London we went to the National Portrait Gallery for the very first time, and liked it a lot - more than the National Gallery I think, but they were both very busy; much more than I remember galleries being 20 or so years ago before we moved from the SE to Cornwall.
When we were at Montacute House a few years ago we were fortunate enough to be able to listen to a teacher telling her charges about the famous portrait of Elizabeth I which shows her in a magnificent dress dripping with pearls and other gems against a backdrop of ships, all of which elements had a particular significance which the teacher explained. We were fascinated but the kids' attention soon wandered. Youth is indeed wasted on the young.
On our last visit to London we went to the National Portrait Gallery for the very first time, and liked it a lot - more than the National Gallery I think, but they were both very busy; much more than I remember galleries being 20 or so years ago before we moved from the SE to Cornwall.
When we were at Montacute House a few years ago we were fortunate enough to be able to listen to a teacher telling her charges about the famous portrait of Elizabeth I which shows her in a magnificent dress dripping with pearls and other gems against a backdrop of ships, all of which elements had a particular significance which the teacher explained. We were fascinated but the kids' attention soon wandered. Youth is indeed wasted on the young.
Jun 6th, 2016, 06:50 AM
#112
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I "happened upon" the National Portrait Gallery about 15 years ago, en route to somewhere else, when a sudden downpour had us running for shelter ... and I was Totally Fascinated, especially with the parade of Royalty down thru the Centuries ... seeing the facial characteristics of monarchs change as the bloodlines change. First there was a special exhibit being put up avout Q E the first, and I was shocked at the painting of her at about 17 or so, red hair, no eyebrows, SO young. And then the big change. After the Tudors, that row of long, horsey-faced Monarchs (stuarts? what?) until the Germans came in, and the "pudding face" predominated ... a hard strain to ameliorate, but it's finally happening. But I digress.
Jun 11th, 2016, 10:42 AM
#113
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mariha, thursdays, yes, I kind of agree about museum tours, but this interruption made my visit more fun. If I'd been gazing at the painting reverently as the guide assumed, and not taking a breather, yes. He started off asking whether I'd come to London expressly to see this it. Yes: apparently there are "Execution of Jane Grey" groupies. Certainly it's full of drama, inaccurate historical interest and pathos, but not my top 100 list.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:-...res,_1834).jpg
Like annhig, I've benefited from eavesdropping on other peoples' tours, me usually too contrary/impatient to join one.
I have always been impressed by how quiet and well-behaved even very young European schoolchildren are during museum tours. (Including UK here, Brexiters.)
Yes, travjan! National Portrait is so good for that. After reading Charles II biography it was especially fun IDing his friends and lovers. The best exhibit for me was the BP Portrait Award, this year 23 Jun - 4 Sept. Definitely worth it if you're in town. Last year it blew me and Hannah away. I paint portraits for love and fun, but nothing like that.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:-...res,_1834).jpg
Like annhig, I've benefited from eavesdropping on other peoples' tours, me usually too contrary/impatient to join one.
I have always been impressed by how quiet and well-behaved even very young European schoolchildren are during museum tours. (Including UK here, Brexiters.)
Yes, travjan! National Portrait is so good for that. After reading Charles II biography it was especially fun IDing his friends and lovers. The best exhibit for me was the BP Portrait Award, this year 23 Jun - 4 Sept. Definitely worth it if you're in town. Last year it blew me and Hannah away. I paint portraits for love and fun, but nothing like that.
Jun 11th, 2016, 10:45 AM
#114
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http://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/bp2016/exhibition.php
Maybe next year I'll submit something just to get the rejection slip.
Maybe next year I'll submit something just to get the rejection slip.
Dec 28th, 2016, 09:15 PM
#116
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I cannot thank you enough for this absolutely delightful and informative report, stokebailey! I'm delighted to have seen a bit of Greece through your eyes, enhanced by charming commentaries by so many others (thanks one and all) -- magiki! 
I loved the faux-Hydra lunch, am very pleased to learn that the acropolis of Mycenae isn’t as bad as some make it sound, and have taken copious notes on places to stay and dine and thoroughly enjoy life.
Thanks so much for taking the time to post this report!
(Just wondering: Has Hannah learned to drive a stick yet?)
I loved the faux-Hydra lunch, am very pleased to learn that the acropolis of Mycenae isn’t as bad as some make it sound, and have taken copious notes on places to stay and dine and thoroughly enjoy life. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this report!
(Just wondering: Has Hannah learned to drive a stick yet?)
Jan 3rd, 2017, 03:50 PM
#117
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Aw, thank you, kja. So kind! I would very much like to go back to Greece soon, and do it all over again. Buy freshly squeezed orange juice from grouchy woman at Mycenae parking lot refreshment stand, and drink it in with the scented air and views. I'll look forward to reading your adventures. (I hope I mentioned how much you'll want to have good-traction-soled shoes, especially on that little bit of slippery paving by the Lion Gate -- not to mention everywhere else in Greece.)
Let me know if you get around to trying boujourdi at the Trendy Café. I've tried to reproduce it at home, along with baked fish with wine using a pinch from spice packet they sell in tourist shops. Nice.
Hannah ended up landing a London job, hallelujah, hasn't been back home since then, but I'm visiting her again next month. I've toyed with the idea of renting a car, taking a day trip maybe and trying the stick again. Otherwise she'll have to marry well (in the sense of someone who can drive a stick), or come back and learn on a borrowed car.
Let me know if you get around to trying boujourdi at the Trendy Café. I've tried to reproduce it at home, along with baked fish with wine using a pinch from spice packet they sell in tourist shops. Nice.
Hannah ended up landing a London job, hallelujah, hasn't been back home since then, but I'm visiting her again next month. I've toyed with the idea of renting a car, taking a day trip maybe and trying the stick again. Otherwise she'll have to marry well (in the sense of someone who can drive a stick), or come back and learn on a borrowed car.
Jan 3rd, 2017, 07:48 PM
#119
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Hi, Ann. How's everything?
I didn't realize when I bought my plane tickets how possibly unrealistic that Hannah would still be there by mid-February. Getting a work visa sponsored is maybe more tricky than usual these days, and her student visa would have expired end of this month. Sheer love of London did it, maybe.
I get to spend 10 days in London, and she and I plan 10 days in Venice, Florence, and Rome. How crazy would it be renting a car in Florence suburbs, do you think, and then driving to Siena for a day, from a traffic point of view? Three cities in 10 days is already two more than I normally like. I've never been to Italy, am working on my Italian, am prepared to use my hands a lot.
I didn't realize when I bought my plane tickets how possibly unrealistic that Hannah would still be there by mid-February. Getting a work visa sponsored is maybe more tricky than usual these days, and her student visa would have expired end of this month. Sheer love of London did it, maybe.
I get to spend 10 days in London, and she and I plan 10 days in Venice, Florence, and Rome. How crazy would it be renting a car in Florence suburbs, do you think, and then driving to Siena for a day, from a traffic point of view? Three cities in 10 days is already two more than I normally like. I've never been to Italy, am working on my Italian, am prepared to use my hands a lot.
