Slowly does it...our trip to north Italy

Oct 3rd, 2019, 06:14 AM
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Thanks for your comments. Karen, the Forcella Lavaredo is at 2,400 m or so.
Didn’t notice anyone with any problems. Just heard about a helicopter rescue.

Forgot to add photos of our lunch spot

Sample page from menu

Very modern

Nice location

It was as delicious as it looks

Feeding time

Lovely spot

Free range

Day 7: San Candido

Walked to the next village, Sesto (Sexten) about 7 km, pleasant forest path, past farms, through to Sesto where we had a light lunch.


Walk to Sesto

Farms and forests

So peaceful

Traffic jam in Sesto


Easy walking trail

Tall trees

Gentle landscape

A really lovely day.

Took bus back.
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 10:50 AM
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Day 8 : San Candido

Farewelled cousin today.

I went solo by train to the next village, Versciaco (€1.50 after a battle with ticket machine, and remembered to validate) only a 5 minute journey. Walked up to the church on the hill, gorgeously sited overlooking farms, the village, the mountains.




Bought a €20 ticket for cablecar up to Mt Elmo with a return to Sesto.

A little flustered when the ticket wouldn’t scan, and attendant told me I had incorrect ticket.

Eventually discovered I was trying to scan my train ticket, oops.

Very hazy on the mountain. Had a raspberry juice mixed with soda and a bauernbrot with cheese and speck, but sky didn’t clear so headed down to Sesto.

Then walked to Moso, another charming village. Just beautiful. My camera snapping away at the velvet green paddocks, cows, geranium filled balconies. Heaven.





A short bus ride and I was back in San Candido. Mum had been on a local walk and lunched outdoors.

We had a final stroll around town and a fragola gelato was just the right late afternoon snack.

Our final night. 8 nights in this hotel. Staff speak several languages, no problem for travellers that don’t speak Italian or German, although we did not hear any English speaking guests here. Mostly Germans, Italians, and Swiss.
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 11:08 AM
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Day 9: depart San Candido arr Bressanone (Brixen)

80 min train ride, via Fortezza €10.50 each and an easy 15 min walk to the

“Hotel Grauer Bär / Orso Grigio” on Altenmarktgasse 27

€468 for 2 single rooms for 3 nights

(single rooms €78 per day inc breakfast and Brixen card, plus free entry to wellness centre opposite)

Great value in the historic centre, nice ambience, beer garden with chestnut trees, a reading room, spotlessly clean, friendly host.

Hotel Grauer Bär *** in Brixen/Bressanone (South Tyrol) - Herzlich Willkommen

Brixen card (free cablecars, regional transport, museums):

“The following means of transport can be used free of charge and without restrictions:
All regional trains in South Tyrol to Trento (marked in the time table with an R).
All city and regional buses in South Tyrol
The cable cars to Renon, Maranza, San Genesio, Meltina, Verano and Colle
The narrow gauge railway Renon and the funicular railway up Mendola
A return journey with the PostAuto Schweiz from Malles to Müstair”

Bressanone is much smaller than Bolzano, more our preferred size. It was surprisingly quiet when we arrived as it was the mid day closures. We lunched on pizza and minestrone, and wandered aimlessly. Nice old alleys, porticoed arcades, colourful facades, churches, river. So delightful.





Naturally, my mother found another linen store and now has 3 new tablecloths in her backpack.

A nice buzz as the town came back to life, with stores open (many elegant fashion shops), people in bars, outdoor dining, dog walkers, lots of cyclists.

We scored an early table at the Kutscherhof, a friendly waitress helped with the menu. I had Tiroler dumplings and Schlutzkrapfen, and an Aperol Spritz, Mum had potato and parsley soup, and an Elderberry long drink, we shared a large mixed salad, really excellent food and only €37

Regional food cookbooks

Tiroler dumplings

Regional food cookbook

Then a stroll through the aldstadt during ‘blue hour’. Lovely.

Lovely light

Quiet evening

Piazza at the cathedral and town hall

Our street

Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 11:32 AM
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Day 10: Bressanone


Missing my muesli for breakfast, but realise that as we move south, breakfasts become lighter and sweeter, more Italian. Still, an adequate meal of breads, some cold cuts, packaged jam, an apple and plum, piece of cake (we didn’t indulge), coffee, juice. As breakfast is served to the table, unlike buffets we were encouraged to use our surplus for lunch, so we had our home made rolls in our bag for the day.

34 min train to Bolzano. Free with Brixen card (otherwise €6), but regional trains only, and the card must be validated.





Wandered through various piazzas, alleys, into churches, street market, past Mareccio Castle, and into the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology Ötzi the Iceman, Museum of Archaeology Bolzano

to see Ötzi, the mummified ice man from the Copper Age.

Entry €9 free with Brixen card. The museum built especially to preserve the mummy. Well displayed explanations (Italian, German, English) of his clothing, weapons, tools, a life sized reconstruction, while he is viewed through a small window into his specially built preservation chamber.



Footwear reconstruction

Screenshot from internet, no photos allowed

Bolzano has an attractive old town, a lot of churches, museums (Mercantile Museum closed in the afternoons, I overlooked this), outdoor dining.

A really nice buzz, but too hectic for us. Very glad to be in Bressanone.

Also, the beggars and homeless in the Bolzano parks was confronting. Have had idyllic village / small town experiences so far and the realities of modern life was jarring. I enjoyed strolling past the high end stores, but felt uncomfortable I suppose.

We had our coffee and chestnut shortbread in Bressanone instead.

Did not get to the monastery in Bolzano or the Castello Roncolo.

Dinner of Gnocchi and a Porcini Tagliatelli, a beer and a red wine (€33).
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 11:53 AM
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Day 11: Bressanone

Wet weather forecast for Wednesday morning so:

A few town excursions while it is raining. We visited the cloisters of the cathedral (wonderful frescoes) and the Hofburg Diocesan museum: bishops private rooms, art museum, the cathedral treasury, and collection of nativity scenes. Usually €8 entry, free with Brixen card. A great wet morning outing.



Cloister and garden

Hofburg treasury

Hofburg apartments of bishops


Hofburg museum

Then bus to Velturno (Feldthurns) 20 min up high in the hills (TI suggested this route when I asked about a trip to Chiusa) to walk via Kastanienweg (chestnut way) to Chiusa. I love bus rides when they get me to the little villages, often amazing views. This ride was really gorgeous.

Bus options, worth checking just for ideas for outings


We joined the chestnut way walk from here. Passed farms, up high so great views over the valley, through chestnut forest, apple orchards, vineyards, the monastery....

Across the valley

Velvet green

The chestnut way



Chestnut way

Distant peaks

About 2 ½ hours walk by then. while we saw the trail sign in Pardell, we asked a local who suggested the road (I presumed because of trail difficulty). But we got on an old road, and took us a long way off in other direction - must have missed a sign as we were then on a track that just looked wrong, but we were too invested by then (no way were we backtracking uphill).

Our path joined an unsigned fork in a road and luckily a driver stopped and gave us a lift to Chiusa (Klausen) where we had ice cream and a short wander. It would have been a long walk on the road as it followed the ravine.

Monastery from the trail

Monastery from Chiusa

Lovely town

Fantastic afternoon ice cream

Gorgeous town, worthy of a longer visit. But, dinner called, so we hopped on a train for our 7 min ride back to Bressanone, and returned to Kutscherhof for another excellent dinner. I had salmon tartare and guacamole, my mother had barley risotto, we shared a small mixed salad (got my veg) (€41 with 2 drinks)

Then train 7 min back to Bressanone

On my potential to do list: had we stayed longer.

2 hour walk St Cyrilus path and Pinzago village, - my mother not keen on a long walk with unknown ascent/ descent

Plose - this looks nice if not going to Dolomites.

Trento is a gorgeous town, but I have stayed there previously. And have done the Müstair bus ride, suggested by TI. But great ideas for a longer holiday.

.................................................. ................................
Have been busy writing, as I’m sleeping so badly!

Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 02:34 PM
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A wonderful report and amazing photos.
tuscanlifeedit is offline  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 08:32 PM
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Bookmarking for later... I've only gotten up to Post #10 but wonderful reading so far. I'm so glad when Adelaidean goes on a trip!
Trophywife007 is offline  
Oct 3rd, 2019, 08:51 PM
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More amazing photos! Those desserts are to die for!! How old is your mother? I am amazed at all the walking the both of you are doing!
KarenWoo is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 04:06 AM
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Thank you so much for taking the trouble to post such an entertaining and detailed report. Makes me wonder why DH and I never went to this bit of Italy as he would have enjoyed all the walking so much [as would I as it looks pretty easy or with easy options] but you have given me plenty of ideas for a solo trip.

looking forward to more!
annhig is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 05:15 AM
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I enjoyed following your time in the mountains and took away some ideas for next time. Bressanone was #2 on our "plan B" list for rainy days, but we only had to go to that list once. We drove through Chiusa/Klausen on our way in to the Val di Funes - I think that's where we encountered a parade.
ms_go is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 05:53 AM
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Greetings from Switzerland Adelaidean - great report! We must get ourselves to Italy soon. Loving your photos - I have dessert (and menu price) envy!
Melnq8 is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 07:36 AM
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Fantastic photos Adelaidean, signing on. This area is high on my wish list for a visit. Very nice that your mother is able to join you on this active trip, slowly or not.

As I started reading I was wondering if you had stopped by one of the Messner Museums and saw your comment about it. I've had several of his books in my collection.

European hotel breakfast buffets certainly put to shame anything I've ever seen in the US.
Nelson is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 07:44 AM
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Thanks for reading and commenting. Hope it helps.

Karen, my mother is 81, is very active with group fitness classes and walking, and incidental exercise ( we are on 3rd floor here and she would not take the lift). But she does tire more these days (I can keep up with her now, LOL).

Mel, so cheap to eat here, but I’ve had so many Tiroler dumplings and I’ve promised hubby not to come home shaped like one, I’m now trying to order salads.
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 08:11 AM
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What a lovely trip report, thank you Adelaidean! Beautiful photos.
raincitygirl is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 08:30 AM
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As always, a thoroughly enjoyable report. Love your writing style, food and shopping details, beautiful photos.
bon_voyage is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 09:59 PM
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Day 12: Bressanone to Malcesine

Travel logistics :

Went to TI for advice on best routing, via Rovereto and Torbole, or Trento and Riva del Garda. Either way, it’s a train south, and bus or two.

€20 each to Rovereto on the EC train.

Could have used regional trains as far as Trento on the Brixen card if I’d planned this properly, not so full AND free to there.

Or, had I booked in advance I could have reserved seats on the EC, as it was I stood the entire journey, managed to get Mum a seat after 40 minutes.

So, in hindsight, using regional trains might have worked better, or, pre reserving seats when on the fast trains.

Nice train ride, picturesque scenery, through the wide valley with a lot of orchards and vineyards and small villages, with wonderful mountains.

First bus that arrived at Rovereto was to Riva del Garda (€2.80 each) so we got on that, had to change in Nago, then again in Torbole, and wait for bus to Malcesine (€3.60 each). All a bit cumbersome with luggage and me not knowing exactly the routing or stops.

Bus ride down to lake is spectacular.

From the bus, leaving Nago, heading to Torbole.

My mother has never been to one of these very touristy (but charming to our eyes) lake or coastal towns (we’d been to Vernazza, similar atmosphere).

Checked in to our hotel,

“Hotel Modena” 2 single rooms total €258 for 3 nights inc breakfast total simple, clean, great location.

We did our wander, she loved the cobbled lanes, the colourful shuttered facades and the lake/ mountain landscape, the buzz.

Looking north, towards Riva

Gorgeous day

Colourful facades

Colourful facades

Stone buildings

Busy alleys

We had dinner at a tiny little restaurant by our hotel. Salad for me, spaghetti vongole for my mother. With 3 drinks €30 Really nice.

Tiny restaurant, lovely

Tiny restaurant

Malcesine: Lake Garda Tourist Guide | Italy Heaven

Then an evening stroll

Quiet streets now

Nice atmosphere

Lovely evening light

Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 10:20 PM
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Day 13: Malcesine

Followed the tourist hordes today. Took ferry to Limone (€6) - take a jacket, the wind is brisk - and wandered the crowded alleys, had gelato, strolled the promenade, my mother poking about the little shops.

One of the ferry options at Malcesine

The little harbour at Malcesine

Passing the Scaligero Castle, Malcesine

Lots of dogs on holiday

Approaching Limone



Docking at Limone

The little harbour in Limone

Stunning lunch spot




Love the tiny pockets of gardens


Gardening in Limone,

The promenade in Limone

Then took a ferry to a Riva del Garda (€5) and wandered again. I like this town. Once off the harbour area (which is very attractive), it is quiet and elegant. It doesn’t have the tiny alleys, nor is it confined to a minuscule strip of land between lake and mountain, so the crowd thins and it is easier to enjoy.

Road between Riva and Limone partly tunnelled into mountain

Approaching Riva del Garda

Looking towards Torbole

Riva del Garda promenade

Streets of Riva del Garda

Alley in Riva del Garda

Charming architecture

Promenade walk

Main square on promenade

We had lunch on the promenade (really good pasta and a glass of merlot), and took the 484 bus back to Malcesine.

All easy to navigate, the TI’s helpful and bus drivers surprisingly patient.

The Ponale path looked popular, if looking for a walk/ bike ride in Riva.

I booked us a table at the restaurant we dined at last night (it’s tiny, so grabbing a reservation a few hours before is wise) and we shared a pizza and salad, with 2 drinks €25.
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 11:02 PM
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HowhowhowhowHOW did I miss your report for so long!! Stunning, as always. I have a love/hate reaction to your and melnq8's trip reports: lovelove them for the beauty and the inspiration, but hate them for giving me itchy feet and boatload of envy.

Wow, truly beautiful!

Some of the towns look almost like Bavaria -- Sexton & Moso particularly.

Brixton looks amazing! Definitely a stop there sometime!

I also spent time in Malcesine, and while I liked the town, I don't know if I'll return. I like the looks and position of Garda town, so I'll be looking to see if you visit.

Wow. Thanks so much for posting!

swandav2000 is offline  
Oct 4th, 2019, 11:17 PM
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Ha, swandav, you get to see my photos on Facebook, so guess you got in earlier anyway

I will send you some more promenade shots, but it’s not like Montreux with its’ long wide stretch of gardened path very much removed from busy road.

Looks like a nice day

Clear skies, yay!

.................................................. .................................................. ..........

re: envy, just remember where I come from, I need to catch up on ‘charming’

No charming facades here

No green

No lakes
Adelaidean is online now  
Oct 4th, 2019, 11:29 PM
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Always shocked to see the "before" photos of your life, Adelaidean. I am so happy that you and your parents get to indulge in the green rolling hills and mountains that you love!

Yes, I saw the photos on Facebook...but somehow lost a few days, I think. This is such a treasure trove of beauty.

Wow, great apartment in Malcesine! I was in an apartment about 15 minutes' walk outside of town, right on the lake. No lake views from the apartment, but a gorgeous walk into town.

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