We are back home, we extended our trip to include Florence after Ortisei. My daughter insisted on visiting David, and then went all the way up again to Vienna, my husband had business there and we thought we will accompany him.
IMO Ortisei is much nicer than Cortina, but the baby slopes in Cortina fitted our group best since it was really easy. I was the only one who picked up skiing really fast whereas my kids and husband didn't. As a matter of fact my husband and my daughter D didnt like it and stopped skiing after the first lesson. I blame that on the teacher since he wasn't that great. When we went to Ortisei we had another teacher for my two other kids L & N and he was great, attentive wasn't pushy and moved at their pace. Maybe the mistake we did in Cortina is that we took our first lesson for the five of us, and so the teacher didn’t care for the ones who were not picking up skiing fast. Even when my daughter D fell down, he just left her there and continued with us, so we had to stop skiing and go help her. Even then he wouldn't come and help her. The same happened with my husband and he just left him behind and kept teaching us three. Our first lesson was for 2 hours for the 5 of us. However, he made it clear (not by words but by attitude) that since 2 different standards of skiers are developing he won't concentrate on the weak. He mentioned at the end of the lesson that the next lesson has to be divided into two, one for the weak party and the second for the better. However, due to the bad experience my kids had with the teacher, they refused to go skiing the next day. So I ended up going skiing with my husband, well he didn't really ski, he just rented the skis and walked around while I did my training of what I learned the first day. My first ski lift trial was also very scary since I'm afraid of heights but after many lift experience it became OK.
It was snowing continuously for days before our arrival to Cortina, so we couldn't ski the day of arrival since the slopes were all closed. However, the next day, the baby slopes were opened and we took our first lesson. It was very quiet, very few people were skiing, of course mainly kids 3 to 8 years old. The next day all slopes were opened so the slopes were much nicer and busier, I was watching all the good skiers and they looked fascinating.
When it was time to leave Cortina to Ortisei the passes were closed so we had to go to Dobbiaco by Taxi, then train to Ponte Gardena, then Taxi to Ortisei. I like the German/Austrian part of Italy better in terms of people.
We were better prepared for Ortisei since we knew what to expect, but we didn't realize that the slopes were so steep. My daughter L, my son N and I went up Alpe di Suisi hoping to practice what we learned in Cortina to discover that the slope there was very steep. My daughter L refused to go down because she was afraid, my son tried it and ended up falling, I followed to find him there so I went to help him. So we decided a teacher was a good idea, since the kids will not be able to go down the slopes alone. I went down the slope and kept going up and down the same slope for the next five hours since I was afraid to try other slopes while my daughter L and son N were taking their lesson at the bottom of the slope. Whereas my daughter D and my husband were hiking.
We thought to go check out Seceda but I coudln't make myself go up, it was very difficult even for me.
When I was there I was always remembering the words that "car" wrote here: (I am sorry to come into this thread a bit late but I have the feeling that you are heading to the most expensive-challenging-crowded ski resorts in Europe.
It is obvious that Vald'isere in France, St-Moritz in Switzerland and Valgardena in Italy are great Ski resort but I will not recomnend them for beginers. You will hardly take any advantages in the high and difficult slopes but you will sure have all the incoviniences of fashion and demanded areas.
I will rather start in ski resorts such as Megeve or Morzine in France, Villars sur ollon or les Diablerets in Switzerland).
I also made the mistake of dividing our stay between Cortina and Ortisei, I should have chosen one place and stayed there the full week.
I don't regret anything because it was a nice trip and we were introduced to skiing but if I were to go back in time knowing what I know now, I will do it differently.
Florence was nice, Sienna even nicer. However I liked Vienna the best because the people there were very welcoming and helpful unlike Italians.

Lets go back to our last two days in Venice. We heard a lot about aqua alta and finally we experienced it. It wasn't that bad. The first day at 5:30 am we heard a siren, like the war siren, followed by bells, declaring that aqua is starting. You have upto to two hours from the siren before San Marco square gets flooded. We had an appointment for the secret itineraries at the Doge's palace at 11:15 that day, our apartment was 100 to 150 metres away from San Marco and so all the streets leading to San Marco were flooded. However, at 11 when we left our apartment there was no water in the streets leading to the duckboards. We managed to get to the duckboards which helped us walk across the flooded San Marco to get to the Doge's Palace. When we finished our visit to the Palace at nearly 1 pm, San Marco was dry.

The same day at 8 pm we heard the siren again, so we finished our dinner and headed to the apartment. We had to prepare our suitcases since we were leaving early the next day to the train station. We were advised by the apartment owner to take the CTV from Railto Bridge and not from San Marco coz the aqua aqua alta in the morning will be flooding San Marco but not the roads leading to Rialto. Our train was at 8:30 am and we heard the siren at 6 am. So at 7:30 am when it was time to leave, we decided to take our chances and head to San Marco's CTV since the walk to Rialto Bridge was longer. The walk to the duckboards was still dry, however San Marco was flooded. The passage leading to the CTV was still dry so we managed to get to the CTV without any problems. We arrived late to the train station and missed out train to Calalzo. This is another story.

To get to Cortina we had to take a direct train to Calalzo and then a bus to Cortina. We arrived late and missed the 8:30 am direct train to Calalzo, so we had to take the next one which was not direct. We had to go by train to Conegliano, then take a bus to Ponte Nelle Alpi, then a train to Calazo, then a bus to Cortina. The train from Ponte Nelle Alpi had to stop midway due to snow covering the rails. It was a long journey, but we made it.

Glad you had a nice time on the whole and well done on really giving it a go. You saw quite a few lovely places. I think you were very wise not to attempt to drive, but I'm sorry to hear you had such a difficult journey - I'm sure it was still better than driving, though.

When it was time to leave Cortina to Ortisei the passes were closed. So we had two options either go down to Calalzo and then up to Ortisei, or go north to Dobbiaco and from there to Ortisei. We took the second option since the train trip was shorter. The buses from Cortina to Dobbiaco were stopped due to dangerous roads, so we had to take a taxi and go north to Dobbiaco, then a train to Fortezza, another train to Ponte Gardena, then a taxi to Ortisei. I tell you the transportation was long and time consuming. It was a mistake to go to both villages, we should have chosen only one. But looking at the map you think they are very close, half an hour and you are there. Not in reality.

Hi Hadeel - Welcome back It was good to hear about your holiday.

Like you I much prefer Ortisei to Cortina (- a place I've never warmed to, I must admit) - though I'm sorry the skiing wasn't such a success. I feel guilty now recommending Val Gardena - I thought there were enough beginners slopes up on the Alpe di Siusi to keep you happy for a week, and beautiful surroundings to enjoy.

You certainly had some difficult journeys by all accounts - especially after missing the direct train. You were lucky you were still able to take the Dobbiaco route when the passes were closed - the alternative would have been back via Venice/Verona - a nightmare!

What did you think of Hotel Adler? I usually prefer smaller places, but I hope it came up to your expectations!

Steve

Hi Hadeel:

Yes, welcome home. You had a hell of a journey!

Cortina: It was a damn shame that you had to start your ski experience with such an unprofessional instructor. I would have gone back to the ski school and asked for a refund! It ruined the experience for all of you!

Cortina has a reputation for getting the elite, or those that think the world owes them attention! That could very well make for some rude encounters.

I seem to have fonder memories of the smaller resorts and pension’s when I think back to the places that I have been in Europe. Just the way I like to travel.

I am of Italian decent, born in NYC, so I can give and take with the best of them. I want to apologize for all the good people of Italy. Most are wonderful, fun-loving, food loving, family first people. But I could understand the bad feeling you had while in Italy.

I also do prefer the resorts in Austria/Germany. That could very well be because my wife is from Austria and she still speaks the language.


But I think that train travel must have really taken its toll on your family. Traveling thru the ALPS in winter is a daunting task for anyone. The fact that it was your first time added to the misery.
But you gave it your best shot! Good for you!

John

Bookmarking

Oh Steve you shouldn't be sorry, Ortisei is beautiful. I loved it and I am planning to go back there, when I am a better skier. Alpe di Suisi is difficult for beginners. My daughter and son took the lifts with their teacher to reach the bottom of the slope, and took their lesson at the slope next to the ski pulley. I was a bit more courageous and went up and down the same slope over and over again, checking on them every time I reach the bottom. I loved it. I loved skiing and I loved the serenity of the place. It wasn't yet crowded, as a matter of fact it barely had any people. The weather was cloudy, we saw the sun for half an hour max. (A nice change away from our scorching sun) It was so relaxing for me, especially when I took the lift rides, the complete silence and the view of the snow covered mountains with green trees was energizing. I was the only one on the lifts that's why it was so serene. I saw skiers on other slopes but I couldn't make myself try the thrill of skiing on them.
The Adler, I will write about it in a second.
John it didn't occur to me to ask for a refund. You know our bad experiences happened in Venice, Cortina and Florence. On several occasions we were faced with people who managed to ruin the day for us. I heard a lot of good things about Italians, how they are family first people just like us, that's why my sister in law used to go there every year with her kids because she felt the warmth. We weren't that lucky. The food wasn't good as well, my kids expected to taste pastas and pizzas that were out of this world. Maybe we didn't go to the right restaurants. Well we didn't expect good food in Venice, but we did in Florence. We followed the advice in the travel guide but on some days it was difficult to do that due to bad planning.
All in all we feel it was a nice experience. Although my kids vowed never to go back to Italy, my husband and I will definitely do. We loved Sienna, and we want to go see Rome.
For skiing we desperately need easier slopes next time.

The Adler, I chose it because I read that it has an escalator directly to the slopes. Well the escalator is close to the hotel but we never used it because it takes you to the Seceda slopes and those were very difficult slopes for us to ski on. The Adler is also close to the bridge that takes you to the Alpe di Suisi gondola, but again, we rented the skis and ski boots from the shop at the Alpe di Suisi gondola and we left there overnight so we didnt have to carry our skis anywhere. So the main reason I booked this expensive hotel for was not valid. I think its good for skiers who have their own skis and ski boots.

Let's discuss the facilities and programs included in the room rate:
- a gym,
- classes in Tai Chi/Yoga/AquaGym/Pilates/etc....,
- free winter walks to discover Val Gardena landscape meeting at 10am 4 days a week (Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday),
- skiguiding which is for good skiers, in which the hotel ski guide introduces you everyday to a new part of Dolmiti Superski (Monday: test the top gear of 2009 on Seceda, then ski Val Gardena, Tuesday: Sella skitour (Sella Ronda), Wed.: skisafari full immersion into the Dolomiti Superski, Thursday: Danterceppies and Saslong, Friday: Val Gardena and the World Cup men's Super G race, Saturday: to be decided on the day.)
- 2 ski rooms
- skipass from the hotel (pay for the pass, but collect it from the hotel)
- Symphony for the senses (a 30 minutes of music and lights) at the relaxation area for ladies only. Repeated 3 times a day.
- breakfast 7:30 am - 11
- Tea time 3:30 to 5:30
- Dinner from 7 -9
- Indoor and outdoor heated pool
- Outdoor salt water heated pool with a whirl pool
- Sauna
- Panoramic sauna
- 9pm Dance music daily with pianist/singer Ramon, nice oldies with beautiful voice.

In addition to the above there are spa treatments for a fee, lunch for a fee.

It is an awesome experience, the open air brine pool with temperature 35 degrees is IMO heaven.

We didnt try many of the programs/facilities because our teenage kids are difficult, as someone would expect teenagers to be.
Its a family oriented hotel, many kids, but also you find couples. I loved it not because of the escalator to the slopes but because it offers you everything to make you enjoy your day.
The five course dinner every night was too much for us, a chance to change and try some of the restaurants in the village would have been appreciated. There is something to do as long as you are inside or outside the hotel. We didn't have lunches but we were eating all the time.
I think its worth a visit.

Hi Hadeel:

I am still sticking with you on your trip!

That Hotel sounds wonderful. It had to be 5-star and I do not think I ever made it to 4-star (usually 3-star is my level) Now I know why some hotels deserve the rating!

Juat a note for next time ( and I trust there will be a next time!)
In re to meal plans: Most hotels will let you out of the nights dinner if you tell them in the morning before you head off to ski! (or will let you swap the dinner for lunch instead.)
For just the reason you mentioned of trying some resturant in town.

Next Time!

John

Thanks John, you are a sweet heart. I am sure you will hear from me when its time for our next holiday. I'm thinking maybe next time I will choose between Turkey or Morocco and Tunisia.