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Should I post my VERY long Barcelona trip report?

Should I post my VERY long Barcelona trip report?

Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:02 PM
  #1  
kavey
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Should I post my VERY long Barcelona trip report?

Hi All

I have just finished writing up my trip report on Barcelona, it is 8.5 pages long in Word format.

As I really cant commit to posting everyone copies of the document (as I usually access from work and they are fairly strict) I am thinking of posting the report here.

Should I post?

Is anyone even interested in it?

I have quite a few tips and recommendations I wanted to share....

Please advise...
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:05 PM
  #2  
olga
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of course! It will be much appreciated
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:18 PM
  #3  
Brian in Atlanta
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Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes!
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:38 PM
  #4  
c.l.
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Yes, I'd love to see it or please send directly. I will be there in late June. Thanks for thinking of us.
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:40 PM
  #5  
elvira
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Do post! How about in 3 or 4 parts?
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:47 PM
  #6  
Kavey
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OK here goes, sorry in advance for the length, will post in parts. Give me a few minutes before you reply until I type in that I have posted the last bit!!!!
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:48 PM
  #7  
Kavey
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Kavey's Barcelona Trip Report - 20th to 25th April 2000

Please excuse the very dry nature of the report, and its length, I want to list as much helpful info as I can together with getting my impressions down in writing….

Cast: Pete (my hub), Lorna (my friend), Laraine (Lorna's friend) and me.
Setting: Barcelona
Stage Directions: Sun spot light from left, mango in the mini bar, tapas on the table.

Thursday 20th
Early morning Go flight from Stansted, complete chaos - Go are one of the new cheap and fast European airlines (owned by BA), you usually check in about an hour before the flight. We got to the check in desk about 1 hr 20 mins before. Go had several flights departing at around the same time, not enough desks and no indications which desk to choose for which flight. They also took an age to check us in. Not impressed at all. It then takes quite some time getting through the security check into the departure lounge/ gates area of Stansted, a real bottleneck. (I have had to go through Stansted a lot recently for work and this one major problem area is starting to make me seriously think about avoiding the airport altogether). Dashed into shop to buy a camera film in 30 seconds flat and then you have to catch an internal transit to the gate. Got on the flight as other passengers were sitting boarded, felt a bit guilty. Flight then took off almost an hour late because 30 other passengers were still stuck getting through the chaos.

Anyway arrived in Barcelona airport, one tip, if you need to change money/ trav cheques do it at the bureau de change here. Got a absolutely excellent rate. Whereas got fleeced big time at a bureau in the tourist areas… really horrendous.

Taxi to hotel took about 20 mins, driver short changed me, in such a casual way it was obviously deliberate. Figured if he could be bothered to make a criminal of himself for 100 pesetas (that's all it was) his life must be worse than mine and he could keep it. Didn't want to start my holiday with an argument over 35 pence!

Hotel Lleo, on Carrer de Pelai (Barcelona Eyewitness guide, map 3). About 1 minute walk from Placa de Catalunya which is at the top of La Rambla. Rooms large and spacious, dull in design, but perfectly comfortable and equipped for a 3 star hotel. Nice clean marble bathroom with strongest power shower I have ever experienced… (No shower curtain so water everywhere
Both rooms looked out over Carrer de Pelai and were pretty noise until late into the night and from early morning, seemed to be a favourite route of ambulances on emergency calls. Earplugs solved the noise and we slept well every night. Breakfast acceptable, standard mix of small hot selection, cold ,eats and cheeses and breads, pastries and cakes, cereals and coffees. Diabetics beware the hot chocolate, I am a chocoholic but even I was surprised at how much sugar could be dissolved in a liquid without hitting saturation point. Very helpful staff.

After arriving we dumped stuff, unpacked, freshened up and headed out. Were pretty hungry so stopped at first Cerveseria we came across on La Rambla. Knew it would be overpriced but were too hungry to look around. Manager friendly, offered menus but took them away before we looked offering to bring us a selection. Don't assume too much that he is a big spirited restaurateur who wants you to have an authentic experience. Not seeing the menu meant we didn't see the prices of each dish and couldn't do much about such a ridiculous bill. We noticed all the tables were treated in the same way, given the same selection of tapas which must have made the kitchen's life easier and cut overheads! Food was good though, but not worth 5000ptas a head!
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:50 PM
  #8  
x
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After lunch went for our first walk down La Rambla and found the fruit market, La Boqueria. Fantastic display… Mainly fruit stalls but also butchers hung with sausages, fishmongers, and dried fruit and nut vendors. A riot of colour and smells and sounds. I am hoping my photos will capture even a fraction of the image. Fruit is incredibly well priced. Bought a huge mano and a bag of large lushious strawbs for less than 250 ptas.

Continued down to the waterfront, mesmerised by flowerstalls, architecture, shop displays and buskers. Buskers on La Rambla seem to mainly follow one theme, they dress up in metallic clothes and body paint and stand stock still in poses, and look like metal toys. Some are better than others. I found it a little odd though to see so many buskers not actually doing much, I am more used to London buskers who are more into performing, tricks or music or acrobatics or magic…

At the end of La Rambla is the Monument a Colum, a tall colum like Nelson's in London, which commemorates Columbus. Around this area are also some craft stalls.

Sat on the steps at the waterfront eating strawberries, watching people get on the Gondrolinas (tourist boats) and milling about.

Quite tired and it was only 5 pm. Since Spain eats late we decided to take a late siesta before going out for dinner.

Dinner: Estevet, Carrer de Valldonzella. Wakling to this restaurant, the nearest one to our hotel out of those recommended in the Eyewitness guide, we were convinced we had taken a wrong turn, there is little else on this slightly drab looking road until you see the small restaurant. Really felt like dining in someone's home. Only a few tables occupied by Spanish. Small menu, though the owner helped us choose starters. All we told him was that three of us ate seafood, but Pete didn't. Laraine didn't eat Pork. Other than that we would like to try a selection. He pottered around in the kitchen before suggesting a few dishes, including lightly battered chanterelled which were not on the menu. Main meals were simple but tasty. Don't come expecting pretty presentation or gourmet dishes, you get simple food simply served. The portions arent too huge (which I was pleased about) so we had room for dessert. We ordered wine by the glass but he said, I will open a bottle and you drink what you like and we charge you just for what you drink. Very hospitable. Bill for 4 came to less than 12000 pesetas.


Friday 21st (Good Friday)

Decided to use the absolutely excellent Bus Turistic to travel around the main sights. This company run sightseeing buses around a preset route with preset stops along the way at most main sights. There are actually two routes, a blue and a red. You buy a ticket and hop on and off as you like all day. The routes start in Placa de Catalunya though I think you can join at other stops. A pass for one day's use of both routes is 2000 ptas, but for 2 days (must be consecutive) it is only 2500 ptas so clearly this is the best deal. The queue in Placa de Catalunya can be quite long to first get on the bus but after that it isnt too bad. Buses follow each other about 15 to 20 minutes apart. There are separate stops for the red and blue routes so decide which one you want to go on and queue there. (If you don't mind which you do first pick the shorter queue!)

The Placa de Catalunya itself didn't do anything for me. It was pleasant enough to peoplewatch and there were a few pretty buildings you could see from it but the modern sculpture of an upside down concrete stairway I found desperately unattractive. There is a tourist info office underground in this square which may be useful for maps etc, we didn't visit. The dull queuing for the bus was enlivened by a South American band of musicians who played to the crowds.

The Bust Turistic provide a route map which included a short page on each main stop, and the guidebook map and other free maps from the hotel were more than adequate.

We decided to hot the blue route on the first day of our 2 day pass.
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:51 PM
  #9  
xx
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First stop at Passeig de Gracia in the Eixample district, site of Gaudi's Casa Mila (La Pedera) and other modernist buildings. We didn't get off here, though we admired the view from the open top bus. The Casa Mila contains a Gaudi exhibition and allows you to explore the rooftop where he created some unusual structures.

Incidentally, the top floor of the bus is very popular. If it is full when you get on the bus, make sure to stay near the upwards stairwell. When the bus reaches the next stop, they first let off departing passengers, then allow existing passengers to move up if they desire, before letting on the passengers waiting at the stop.

We also stayed on as the bus stopped at the Francesc Macia Diagonal, the heart of the shopping district. We were not here to shop, and in any case it was Good Friday and they were all closed!

Next stop Estacio de Sants. Although the Industrial park is listed as an imprtant piece of modern urban planning and is interesting to look at there is little to see and it really is in an urban dump of an area. Dirty streets with little merit. We should have got back on the bus, instead we walked through to the Parc Joan Miro. The tall Joan Miro sculpture is interesting but the only thing there. Unless you want to see the Estacio de Sants I would go on to the next stop, you can easily walk to the Joan Miro from there.

We walked on to the Placa Espanya which offers an amzing mix of styles. From our direction we first saw the beautiful bullring, no longer used for bullfights but a lovely building. The square itself contains a lovely fountain by Jujol (a Gaudi student). From the square you look onto the Palau Nacional. The entrance from the Placa to the Palua is through two Venetian towers and an avenue of modern conference centres.

From the start of this avenue runs a little train which tours the Montjuic area every 30 to 40 minutes. Strongly recommend taking this, it was noe of my favourite experiences. When you get your Bus Turistic ticket they also give you a book of discount vouchers (which we used extensively throughout the stay). The little Tren Turistic de Montjuic costs 400 ptas with the voucher (500 without). Though the voucher and map given to you are misleading, both indicate a ticket which can be used all day, infact it is valid for a single tour round only.

We thoroughly enjoyed the route which took us past the Poble Espanyol, through the Olympic stadium and surrounding area, past the stunning and photogenic telecommunications tower, up through the park past the Palua Nacional, and up and through Montjuic castle (and yes, I do mean through!!!!) From the heights of Montjuic we had a stunning view of Barcelona, could see the coast line and the thrusting towers of the Sagrada Familia and many other familiar sights.

On returning back to the starting point in Placa Espanya we tried to take the train again for the first leg to Poble Espanyol, it was then that we discovered that despite what it said in English and Spanish on both the discount voucher and the route map provided with the ticket, we could only use the tickets for one ride.
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:52 PM
  #10  
xx
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We grabbed some tapas lunch at a little café just off the square before we got back on the Bus Turistic in the Placa and stopped off at Pole Espanyol. I loved this recreated village. It was created in 1929 and consists of a small village created in a huge variety of old Spanish architectural styles, which don't belong together and should either look jarringly wrong or rather twee but infact are absolutley charming. We enjoyed very very much our 2.5 hours here. There are some lovely shops selling handcrafted items, and if you can time your visit for a mealtime there are a large number of lovely restaurants which we did not have the chance to try.

We skipped the next stop on the Bus Turistic as we had seen the Olympic village area on the little train and went on to the stop for the Teleferic de Montjuic. (Teleferic = cable car). As we had a voucher in the discount book and we love cable cars we took the ride up to the castle and back. The view from the cable car and the castle were fantastic. Whilst up at the top we noticed a solid and startling mist rolling thickly off the sea and completely blanketing the Port Vell, Barceloneta and Port Olympic areas… we quickly changed our plans for an evening in these areas…

On the bus again we froze driving through the next few stops, where the mist was still hanging heavily, and didn't get off at the Miramar Jardins, La Rambla or the Port Vell, Barceloneta and Port Olympic areas. Other stops we missed here included the zoo and the Barri Gotic (gothic area).

After returning to the hotel for a rest Pete and I were so exhausted that we settled for an adequate though unexciting meal at a local brasserie whilst the two girls hit the town…
Oh and I ate my mango, one of the biggest and yet tastiest, juiciest, most delicious mangoes I have had for a long time (and believe me, I am Indian, I love my mangoes and eat them constantly throughout the short season during which we have the imported into the UK!)


Saturday 22nd
Lazy start. As the fruit market was again open (closed on national holidays and on Sundays) we dashed down and I got three more juicy mangoes. (Pete forewent (is that the past tense of forego?) the fruit and got some Dunkin Donuts from the shop at the corner of the market instead!). Dumped this back at the hotel…

And then back onto the red Bus Turistic route. We decide to get on one stop before the Placa de Catalunya to avoid the crowds and it being nearer to our hotel. It is here that we witness an appalling but so smoothly and quickly conducted crime.

As we are standing at the stop looking out at the slow moving rush hour traffic two lads who have just walked past us on the pavement stop to talk to a driver and her passenger through a window. We arent paying much attention as the familiar way they are chatting suggests they are friends. Then the second of the men quickly opens the back door, grabs a bag and they both run for it. We don't react very fast as when he first opens the door we assume he is about to get into the car. They race off into the metro stop just on the corner. We piece together afterwards as we share our limited memories that they must have noticed the bag lying in ful view on the back seat as the car passed them in slow traffic and plan to grab it when they catch up at the lights. Drivers of rental cars be aware.

I would like to add that this was the only crime we saw/ experienced or heard of while we were there. I bought and wore a Wonderbag handbag, a casual waterproof bag, with a thick strong and adjustable length strap (sewn not clipped to the bag). I wore it across one shoulder/ my neck. Don't be paranoid, but do be aware and don't take stupid risks or tempt fate.

 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:54 PM
  #11  
xx
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First stop once on the Bus Turistic is again the Passeig de Gracia (the routes intersect at a few stops). We continued to La Sagrada Familia. It is a wonderous site (and made more sense once I read that it was started by someone else as a traditional gothic cathedral before being taken over by Gaudi one year into construction, he then completely adapted the design but decided to incorporate those parts already built. Personally I found the structure hard to appreciate from such a close viewpoint and preferred the majestic views I had enjoyed of it from the Monjuic area and cable car. You can enter the area and ascent one of the towers but we admired it from the street before continuing to the Park Guell.

I adored the Park Guell. The fluid and slightly crazy mosaic-covered structures really struck a chord with me, and despite the crowds, I was in heaven. As well as the mosaic is the room of a hundred columns along with strangely structured stone walkways and paths. We spent a long time here admiring the view and soaking up the sun before stopping for a lovelt seafood lunch in a little restaurant. Cant recall the name but it was the only elegant looking restaurant there along the little road up a hill from the Bus Turistic stop to the park (the others were all little touristy fast food/ tourist food places).

We went on to the Tibidabo stop and caught the tram up the hill hoping to then catch the furnicular up the mountain but the furnicular was not working (I think electricity was out) and we gave up and moved on.

From here we went right back to the Placa de Catalunya and our hotel for a rest.

This evening we wanted to dine in the Barri Gotic but Lorna and Laraine had had trouble finding a nice place in all the little streets so we looked in Eyewitness and plumped on Los Caracoles. This was just another walk down La Ramblas and then turn off onto Carrer dels Escudellers. (I had read and printed advice from the Forum as well as from sites such as TimeOut and Fodor's, but had forgotten to take it with me so it didn't click that this was one of those ones that had received such positive feedback already. Only once in it did I twig!). What a fantastic experience!!!

We entered into the tiny and narrow bar area and almost left thinking we hadnt found the restaurant, then we walked through the bar, and I asked about a table, they gestured through into the interior and muttered about the maitre d'. I went on in, a little timid to walk through the actual kitchen itself to the restaurant. This was truly an experience in itself as the kitchen is tiny, very hectic and full of stirring chefs and whirling waiters, running around amid the sound of sizzling, boiling, grilling dishes wafting gorgeous smells out into the restaurant.

Maitre d' added me to the bottom of a list of 8 or so names and said to wait in the bar. Returned to my group and we stood apart trying not to get in the way.

As a waiter passed me I smiled in appreciation of the atmosphere at which point he asked about my name and went off to enquire about my table. (Pretty good going after only 5 mins wait and him not speaking any english). He came back, grabbed my hand, dragged me through the kitchen and back into a restaurant and proudly sat me at a table he had just emptied… And then went back to my friends, hushing me quickly when I looked queryingly towards the Maitre d'!

Anyway we had a fabulous meal, the razor clams were fantastic, and the house speciality of mixed fish cooked in a certain way was divine… We finished with Crème Catalan which, I must admit, shocking though it is for me to say such a thing, was far too sweet even for me… Just as well we had a slow stroll back to the hotel to walk a little of it back off!!
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:55 PM
  #12  
xx
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Also the prices were astoundingly reasonable and service friendly. I thoroughly recommend it.


Sunday 23rd (Easter Sunday)

Sleep a little late.. it is Sunday! And sit and chat over breakfast.

The hotel desk inform that the only place to buy stamps today is in a little tabac in the cathedral square and coincidentally at 12pm there will be a special dance there we might enjoy. It's 11.40 so we hot foot it out of there.

Get lost in the Gothic area and end up finding a church but it's the wrong one! However it's now 12 and we have no hope of finding the right place by 12 so we meander around the little market of local produce and artists we have found by this other church.

Eventually we continue via a very very busy Placa de Sant Jaume towards our goal for the day, the Palau de Musica. On the way we finally and accidentally come to the Cathedral, about 20 mins late, but the dance of the giants is still on. Several people on very tall stilts dressed in long flowing costumes bob slowly through the happy and excited crowd. I also get very excited at all the Pikachu balloons.

We find the Palau de Musica, a beautiful building which is difficult to appreciate from the confines of the narrow street it is on, and join a queue outside at 12.30. Only as the doors are opened do we discover that you must first purchase tickets at the museum shop in a separate building nearby (sadly this is one tip not in our two guidebooks). The 12.30 tour is full. In the shop we buy tickets for the 2pm tour (discount with Bus Turistic voucher book).

Return to Cathedral square for some cool Fanta Limon to watch the continuing music and dance and crowds. Enjoy the sun on our backs.

The tour of the Palau de Musica is simply stunning, and one of my top 5 sights not to miss. The mosaics and glassworks and artwork were stunning enough but the stained gass ceiling literally took my breath away. My only regret is that we didn't attend a proper musical performance one evening at this magical venue. The tour alsts 50 minutes, includes a short film which is very informative and lots of information from the guide. No flash photos but I figured the postcards would do it better justice than my efforts anyway!

After Palau I was feeling quite tired and hot so Pete and I left the two girls and returned to the hotel to freshen up before heading back out.

We went down the Rambla via a tapas bar called Amaya for a quick small snack and on to the Port Vell/ Barceloneta area. We spent some time sitting admiring the boats and looking at the craft stalls before walking onto the Port Vell area which includes an Imax theatre, Aquarium, and Mare Magnumshopping centre. Didn't think much of shops here so just enjoyed the sun before crossing the little bridge back to La Rambla. Here we stopped at El Choquito for an early tapas dinner before returning back to the hotel for an early night. The tapas here was particularly good and the stuffed mussels, croqettes, grilled whole prawns, and patatas bravas were favourites.

 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 01:56 PM
  #13  
Kavey
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On our way home ventured into one of the tiny chocolate shops to admire the beautiful Easter creations, and bought a little bar of good chocolate to enjoy back in the hotel. We had an excuse, we had forsaken our chocolate easter eggs this year!

Monday 24th (Easter Monday)

Last day and we are determined to make the most of it. Back down to Port Vell and Barceloneta where we split from the girls. They want to lie on the beach and recommend we see the Aquarium which they visited yesterday. Though not usually an aquarium fan I loved the way this one was created, despite the crowds, and am very surprised it isnt featured in my Eyewitness guide at all. Apparently it is the biggest in Europe.

After the Aquarium Pete and I enjoy lunch at la Gavina restaurant, at the foot of the Museum of Catalan History, overlooking the pretty harbour. The main dish (which I enjoy thoroughly) is the seafood paella (which I notice is the dish nearly everyone is going for). Go for the one with shells for more seafood. Prices very good, I am surprised as it is a very obvious tourist location.

After lunch we meet the girls and walk along the Moll de la Barceloneta to the Torre Sant Sebastia. All week we have noticed cable cars winging their way along to a second tower by the World Trade Centre and a thirs stop somewhere towards Montjuic. Sadly these must have been test rides as the tower is well and truly surrounded by a worksite and looks permanently closed.

We give up and detour to the beach and enjoy the fabulous sun, sand and crashing waves. After a while Pete and I taxi back to the hotel.

That evening we four dine very enjoyably on a great selection of tapas at El Choquito towards the bottom of La Rambla before strolling back home along La Rambla one last time.

Tuesday 25th

We hop in a taxi back to the airport, this time finding a particularly helpful driver who informs us that although Go have insisted very strongly in their literature that we should go to Terminal B for check in, that he will drop at as A. He is right.

I am unpopular as I realise I have misread the Go letter (no tickets) and the flight is an hour later than I had thought. Luckily they open the desk very ealy, and we have extra legroom seats and plenty of time to shop.

There are some beautiful shops in Barcelona airport, though mainly of the very very sophisticated and expensive kind. Still I buy some saffron, foie gras, chocolate and wine before getting aboard and returning to a surprisingly sunny England.




In summary, I would say Barcelona is one of my very very favourite cities, that I am already thinking about when I can go back, and that you really should give yourself as much time there as you can.


Many thanks for reading, I hope I have included some helful tips and insights.


Kavey
 
Old May 3rd, 2000, 05:55 PM
  #14  
capri
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Thankyou for a wonderful trip report,one of the best I have ever read.I like your attitude towards travel and I am also a mango addict
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 12:16 AM
  #15  
Kavey
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If you are a mango addict definitely hit Barcelona at the end of April time of year, they really are gorgeous.

Thank you for your kind comments, it was fun to write.

If anyone has any questions about anything let me know...

Kavey
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 04:01 AM
  #16  
Monica
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Hello Kavey,
I loved your report and have printed it out for future reference, even though I have been to Barcelona twice. I too love Barcelona.
I would like to ask a few questions: What was the price of your hotel? What exchange rate did you get? And lastly, what was the price of the 2 day pass? Thanks!
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 04:23 AM
  #17  
Kavey
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Monica, Hi!

The two day oass was 2500 pesetas, as compared with 2000 for a single day pass.

We paid £70 UK per room per night for the Hotel Lleo, which we booked in advance. Usually I book hotels over internet but Easter was so busy that I ended up booing through the City Breaks arm of my company (for the published price, no discounts).

Exchange rate against the pound.
For the money I changed in UK I got about 266
For the money I changed at Barcelona airport on arrival I got about 278
For the money I changed on La Rambla I officially got 265 but once I had calculated into this the appallingly high commission fee I got 215

Also on another point, you know how you often need to show passport for picture ID when changing travellers cheques and using credit cards? I have a new credit card with my photo scanned and digitally printed on the back, and I found at the Aquarium that she let me off providing a passport once she saw it....

I am glad you enjoyed my report...
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 05:18 AM
  #18  
Brian in Atlanta
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Bravo, Kavey! You brought back wonderful memories of my honeymoon back in '97. A fantastically well-written report!

And now whenever anyone poses the question, "What to do in Barcelona?", we can tell them to search for "Barcelona trip report" and they'll be able to easily access this gem of a resource.
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 07:38 AM
  #19  
Kavey
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Brian you are a sweetheart... such a nice comment, as I was so nervous to post it!!

Kavey
 
Old May 4th, 2000, 08:29 AM
  #20  
Monica
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Hi Kavey,

Funny you should mention about the credit card with your photo. My husband was at our bank this a.m. and they took his photo and had him write his signature for our credit card. I'll have to go in and get my photo taken too! I think all banks should have the person's photo on it. I think it will help in traveling and from theft. And fortunately with our credit card (through Bank of America) we are NOT charged any conversion fees, so we do get a great exchange rate. Ciao! Monica
 

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