September Scotland Itinerary
#22
Joined: Mar 2003
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Hi Yelpir
You might find my TR from 2006 helpful --we had a wonderful trip to Scotland, including the far north west. (Click my name link to see the report listed -- title mentions single malts and midges, both of which factored into our trip...)
If you stay in Durness, I highly recommend Mackay’s Restaurant with Rooms <http://www.visitmackays.com/, run by Fiona Mackay -- we loved it. While you are there, a trip over to Cape Wrath is a memorable experience with phenomenal scenery. Oh, and don't miss the beautiful beaches along the north coast -- a big surprise to us. There's a spectacular photo round every corner.
Happy trails!
Sonia
You might find my TR from 2006 helpful --we had a wonderful trip to Scotland, including the far north west. (Click my name link to see the report listed -- title mentions single malts and midges, both of which factored into our trip...)
If you stay in Durness, I highly recommend Mackay’s Restaurant with Rooms <http://www.visitmackays.com/, run by Fiona Mackay -- we loved it. While you are there, a trip over to Cape Wrath is a memorable experience with phenomenal scenery. Oh, and don't miss the beautiful beaches along the north coast -- a big surprise to us. There's a spectacular photo round every corner.
Happy trails!
Sonia
#23
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2007
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Sonia: Thanks for the valuable info. I read your trip report and it knocked me out. It was beautifully written and made me feel as though I were right there with you. I now have a far better appreciation for the north west than I had before. Thanks so very much for writing that.
I have consulted with my Australian friend and she has said that she would prefer a more leisurely holiday with fewer one night stops and less driving so I am having another look at the itinerary to see if I can build in more 2 and 3 night stops. It's going to be tough because I will have to chop a lot out.
Anyone have any ideas on what I can live without and where I should double or triple up?
I have consulted with my Australian friend and she has said that she would prefer a more leisurely holiday with fewer one night stops and less driving so I am having another look at the itinerary to see if I can build in more 2 and 3 night stops. It's going to be tough because I will have to chop a lot out.
Anyone have any ideas on what I can live without and where I should double or triple up?
#24



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
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In the end, you will be very happy your friend has dug in her heels. Your first plan would have been difficult - and <u>especially</u> so w/ a reluctant companion.
And - honestly - you will see more if you take a more leisurely pace than if you dash around so much.
What to cut?
Since your first day starts w/ a long drive up from the Lakes, you really can't count it as a day near Stirling. So I would stay 3 nights there. Maybe near Callander. That would give you 2+ days to see Stirling, Doune, Loch Lomond, Falls of Dochart, Loch Tay, Loch Earn and lots of Trossachs scenery.
Then drive up through Glencoe and down to Oban and take a mid-afternoon ferry to Mull for 2 nights. The first day explore a bit of the island or hop over to Iona. the second day go to Staffa and more of Mull. Lots of great scenery including amazing beaches.
Then take a morning ferry and drive across Mrovern and Moidart to Mallaig and the ferry to Skye. 2 nights on Skye - 3 would be better but 2 would be OK.
You have now used 7 or 8 nights - from here you have 5 more days which is plenty to explore a bit of the NW (maybe 2 nights in the far north) and then 1 night somewhere near Inverness and via Perth to Edinburgh for your last 2 nights.
What you are missing is mainly Grantown on Spey and Deeside, and since Balmoral is not open and you will have chances to visit distilleries elsewhere - those are not major cuts.
And - honestly - you will see more if you take a more leisurely pace than if you dash around so much.
What to cut?
Since your first day starts w/ a long drive up from the Lakes, you really can't count it as a day near Stirling. So I would stay 3 nights there. Maybe near Callander. That would give you 2+ days to see Stirling, Doune, Loch Lomond, Falls of Dochart, Loch Tay, Loch Earn and lots of Trossachs scenery.
Then drive up through Glencoe and down to Oban and take a mid-afternoon ferry to Mull for 2 nights. The first day explore a bit of the island or hop over to Iona. the second day go to Staffa and more of Mull. Lots of great scenery including amazing beaches.
Then take a morning ferry and drive across Mrovern and Moidart to Mallaig and the ferry to Skye. 2 nights on Skye - 3 would be better but 2 would be OK.
You have now used 7 or 8 nights - from here you have 5 more days which is plenty to explore a bit of the NW (maybe 2 nights in the far north) and then 1 night somewhere near Inverness and via Perth to Edinburgh for your last 2 nights.
What you are missing is mainly Grantown on Spey and Deeside, and since Balmoral is not open and you will have chances to visit distilleries elsewhere - those are not major cuts.
#26



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
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Pitlochry does not do ANYTHING for me personally. Just a very touristy little town. You can spend your 2 nights up north and 1 night near Inverness and then while driving down the A9 you can detour to Loch Tummel and Loch Rannoch before heading on to Edinburgh. This will be your longest driving day by far but the A9/M90 is the best/fastest road on your entire route.
From Inverness to EDI is about 150-160 miles depending on where you actually start from. It is a 3.5-4 hour drive. The detour to Loch Tummel and/or Loch Rannoch will add about 1 to 3 hours to the day depending on how far you go and how many photo stops you make.
I would not plan on getting to Edinburgh until late afternoon/early evening
Also - it does look like you have another day/night (unless I mis-counted somewhere). If so, I'd spend that near Inverness (stay 2 nights) since you'd be driving down from up north, one night really doesn't give you much time there. You'd want to see at minimum Culloden/Clava Cairns, a bit of Loch Ness, and maybe the Dolphins in the Moray Firth.
From Inverness to EDI is about 150-160 miles depending on where you actually start from. It is a 3.5-4 hour drive. The detour to Loch Tummel and/or Loch Rannoch will add about 1 to 3 hours to the day depending on how far you go and how many photo stops you make.
I would not plan on getting to Edinburgh until late afternoon/early evening
Also - it does look like you have another day/night (unless I mis-counted somewhere). If so, I'd spend that near Inverness (stay 2 nights) since you'd be driving down from up north, one night really doesn't give you much time there. You'd want to see at minimum Culloden/Clava Cairns, a bit of Loch Ness, and maybe the Dolphins in the Moray Firth.
#29



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 74,969
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You can get quite a ways. You'll want to hug the coast as far as Ullapool. After that you really are forced inland since there are few/no coastal roads for quite a distance. I'd think you could easily get as far as Scourie - or maybe all the way to Durness.
#32
Joined: Apr 2008
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If you're going to that part of the world I would strongly recommend a visit to Inverewe. It made my list of top 10 things to do.
http://achiltibuiecottages.wordpress...d-achiltibuie/
http://achiltibuiecottages.wordpress...d-achiltibuie/
#33
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Joined: Feb 2007
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janisj: I'm sticking pretty tightly to your suggested itinerary.
After 3 days in Callander I plan to head for Fionnphort on Mull. While I would like to spend both Mull nights in Fionnphort, it does not seem practical so I figure to spend the first night in Fionnphort and the second somewhere like Tobermory so as to have a head start for the ferry to Lochaline the following morning. Any ideas on a place to spend that night?
On Skye I figure on 2 nights somwhere central like Broadford. Again, any ideas on a place to stay?
I think Ullapool will be a big enough push from Skye as I would like to drive the Applecross Road and visit those Inverewe Gardens and I don't want to rush it.
The day following arrival in Ullapool could be spent round and about or doing a northern circle and back to Ullapool for the night. Would a day trip from Ullapool to Durness with a visit to Smoo cave be doable?
Any ideas on a place to stay in Ullapool?
Ullapool to Inverness seems like a relatively easy run, leaving time to see some of those places your recommended near Inverness.
Inverness straight down the main road to Edinburgh, with a stop in Birnam for the Beatrix Potter exhibition seems reasonably relaxed, followed by 2 nights in Edinburgh before flying to Heathrow.
Once again, thanks so much for all your help. My lovely lady is very much happier with this itinerary
After 3 days in Callander I plan to head for Fionnphort on Mull. While I would like to spend both Mull nights in Fionnphort, it does not seem practical so I figure to spend the first night in Fionnphort and the second somewhere like Tobermory so as to have a head start for the ferry to Lochaline the following morning. Any ideas on a place to spend that night?
On Skye I figure on 2 nights somwhere central like Broadford. Again, any ideas on a place to stay?
I think Ullapool will be a big enough push from Skye as I would like to drive the Applecross Road and visit those Inverewe Gardens and I don't want to rush it.
The day following arrival in Ullapool could be spent round and about or doing a northern circle and back to Ullapool for the night. Would a day trip from Ullapool to Durness with a visit to Smoo cave be doable?
Any ideas on a place to stay in Ullapool?
Ullapool to Inverness seems like a relatively easy run, leaving time to see some of those places your recommended near Inverness.
Inverness straight down the main road to Edinburgh, with a stop in Birnam for the Beatrix Potter exhibition seems reasonably relaxed, followed by 2 nights in Edinburgh before flying to Heathrow.
Once again, thanks so much for all your help. My lovely lady is very much happier with this itinerary
#34
Joined: Jan 2003
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I stayed at a great B&B near Broadford in 2000, called Tir Alainn. Pretty area, great view, friendly host (he sang for us during breakfast) clean and comfy rooms.
http://www.visitskye.com/
http://www.visitskye.com/
#35



Joined: Oct 2005
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Staying in two different places on Mull is certainly an option. But I <i>personally</i> wouldn't do it that way. Fionnphort to Tobermory is about 45 miles - about 80-90 minutes and you could still get a morning ferry if you leave Fionnphort after breakfast.
But Tobermory is a good place to stay too, so it would not be "wrong" to move the second night
But Tobermory is a good place to stay too, so it would not be "wrong" to move the second night
#37
Joined: Jan 2003
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I just caught up with this, whilst I wouldn't do your first itinerary myself, the only specific change I'd make is to the bit from Lochaline to Mallaig.
Personally, I'd go left at Strontian and not back to Fort William. I appreciate that that will mean you missing Glen Nevis and Glenfinnan, and they're important to you, then ignore this bit of advice.
If you don't intend doing a tour of Stirling castle, walking to teh top of the Wallace Monument or spending time at Bannockburn, Stirling doesn't warrant a day.
Glen Affric is lovely- Loch Ness is mediocre. Only you can decide.
The far north- Durness, Cape Wrath, Tongue, Ben Hope- is magical and very different to anything else you will see. Only you can decide.
Try the Visit Scotland B&B section for your accommodation
Your connections in London should be fine.
An alternative on the Mull thing is to take a boat trip to Iona on the day after you arrive in Oban- with a stop at Staffa if you like.
If you want to post what you end up with, we can add some bits in for you
Personally, I'd go left at Strontian and not back to Fort William. I appreciate that that will mean you missing Glen Nevis and Glenfinnan, and they're important to you, then ignore this bit of advice.
If you don't intend doing a tour of Stirling castle, walking to teh top of the Wallace Monument or spending time at Bannockburn, Stirling doesn't warrant a day.
Glen Affric is lovely- Loch Ness is mediocre. Only you can decide.
The far north- Durness, Cape Wrath, Tongue, Ben Hope- is magical and very different to anything else you will see. Only you can decide.
Try the Visit Scotland B&B section for your accommodation
Your connections in London should be fine.
An alternative on the Mull thing is to take a boat trip to Iona on the day after you arrive in Oban- with a stop at Staffa if you like.
If you want to post what you end up with, we can add some bits in for you
#38
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 274
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Greetings all and thanks for your continued interest 
Thanks to you, Shiela, for your latest suggestions
UPDATE!
I have nailed down the Lake District leg of the trip! Found a lovely little B&B in Near Sawrey and booked it for 3 nights. So, the launchpad for Scotland is set. Now I am focussing on accommodation in Edinburgh for the last 2 nights.
As at this moment the itinerary looks sort of like this:
Sep 11 - Lake District to Callander
Sep 12/13 - Around Callander (Stirling, Doune, Loch Lomond, Falls of Dochart, Loch Tay, Loch Earn and the Trossachs)
Sep 14 - Glen Coe, Oban, Mull, overnight in Fionnphort
Sep 15 - Iona, Staffa, Lunga and finish up in Tobermory or Salen
Sep 16 - Lochaline, Corran, Glen Nevis, Glenfinnan, Mallaig, overnight in Broadford (sorry, Shiela, just can't let go of Glen Nevis and 'the Road to the Isles
Sep 17 - Exploring Skye
Now it gets a bit grey.
Plan 1:
Sep 18 - Kyle of Lochalsh, Eilean Donan, Applecross, Gairloch (or maybe as far as Ullapool if time)
Sep 19 - Around Gairloch or Ullapool (day trip to Durness and back, maybe?)
Sep 20 - Garve, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Inverness
Sep 21 - Aviemore, Pitlochry, Dunkeld, Edinburgh
Sep 22 - In Edinburgh
Sep 23 - Fly out
Plan 2:
Sep 18 - Another day exploring Skye
Sep 19 - Kyle of Lochalsh, Eilean Donan, Applecross, Gairloch (or maybe as far as Ullapool)
Sep 20 to 23 - As for plan 1.
Plan 2 gains an extra day on Skye at the cost of one day up north.
Is it worth sacrificing the area between Ullapool and Durness for an extra day on Skye?
Edinburgh accommodation: We will drop off the hire car as soon as we arrive in Edinburgh. This means public transport to the airport on the 23rd. Would we be better advised to stay in the city or somewhere between the city and the airport? On a budget of around GBP35 pppn we can't afford hotels so would need to find a reasonable B&B. Any ideas on a suitable area, say 20 minutes bus ride to the city and on a bus route to the airport?
Thanks for taking this long journey with me

Thanks to you, Shiela, for your latest suggestions

UPDATE!
I have nailed down the Lake District leg of the trip! Found a lovely little B&B in Near Sawrey and booked it for 3 nights. So, the launchpad for Scotland is set. Now I am focussing on accommodation in Edinburgh for the last 2 nights.
As at this moment the itinerary looks sort of like this:
Sep 11 - Lake District to Callander
Sep 12/13 - Around Callander (Stirling, Doune, Loch Lomond, Falls of Dochart, Loch Tay, Loch Earn and the Trossachs)
Sep 14 - Glen Coe, Oban, Mull, overnight in Fionnphort
Sep 15 - Iona, Staffa, Lunga and finish up in Tobermory or Salen
Sep 16 - Lochaline, Corran, Glen Nevis, Glenfinnan, Mallaig, overnight in Broadford (sorry, Shiela, just can't let go of Glen Nevis and 'the Road to the Isles

Sep 17 - Exploring Skye
Now it gets a bit grey.
Plan 1:
Sep 18 - Kyle of Lochalsh, Eilean Donan, Applecross, Gairloch (or maybe as far as Ullapool if time)
Sep 19 - Around Gairloch or Ullapool (day trip to Durness and back, maybe?)
Sep 20 - Garve, Loch Ness, Glen Affric, Inverness
Sep 21 - Aviemore, Pitlochry, Dunkeld, Edinburgh
Sep 22 - In Edinburgh
Sep 23 - Fly out
Plan 2:
Sep 18 - Another day exploring Skye
Sep 19 - Kyle of Lochalsh, Eilean Donan, Applecross, Gairloch (or maybe as far as Ullapool)
Sep 20 to 23 - As for plan 1.
Plan 2 gains an extra day on Skye at the cost of one day up north.
Is it worth sacrificing the area between Ullapool and Durness for an extra day on Skye?
Edinburgh accommodation: We will drop off the hire car as soon as we arrive in Edinburgh. This means public transport to the airport on the 23rd. Would we be better advised to stay in the city or somewhere between the city and the airport? On a budget of around GBP35 pppn we can't afford hotels so would need to find a reasonable B&B. Any ideas on a suitable area, say 20 minutes bus ride to the city and on a bus route to the airport?
Thanks for taking this long journey with me
#39
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
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Places you can give shortshrift: Kyle of Lochalsh and Ullapool. The town of Ullapool is not very interesting, the area is. But it's a long haul up to Dorness and back in one day. Three or four hours one-way I would think.
Loved the Road to the Isles and wish we'd stopped more along the way.
Do try to work in another day on Skye. There's lots to see and it would be a little rest.
I find driving in Britain tiring, not because it's on the other side (which it wouldn't be for you), but because the roads are narrow with little or no shoulders (verges). And you're going to be on a lot of one-lane roads.
Loved the Road to the Isles and wish we'd stopped more along the way.
Do try to work in another day on Skye. There's lots to see and it would be a little rest.
I find driving in Britain tiring, not because it's on the other side (which it wouldn't be for you), but because the roads are narrow with little or no shoulders (verges). And you're going to be on a lot of one-lane roads.
#40
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
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Comments:-
Sep 12/13 If you take it easy, that's fine. You can get round all the places you list but only if you don't stop, eat or sleep.
Sep 15 - Unless you have your own boat you will not get to Lunga as well as the other places you list. You can do Iona and Staffa, or Staffa and Lunga, but not all three (I would be pleased to be proved wrong.)
Sep 19 - Plan 1- don't day trip Durness- as aprt of an ongoing route, yes, but NOT a day trip. You could stay at Gairloch or thereby and day trip Ullapool
Plan 2- Unless you're going to climb a mountain you'll get by with a day on Skye
What time's your flight out? I would stay in the centre, I think, unless you're flight means negotiating the rush hour.Based on your criteria- how about Corstorphine?
Sep 12/13 If you take it easy, that's fine. You can get round all the places you list but only if you don't stop, eat or sleep.
Sep 15 - Unless you have your own boat you will not get to Lunga as well as the other places you list. You can do Iona and Staffa, or Staffa and Lunga, but not all three (I would be pleased to be proved wrong.)
Sep 19 - Plan 1- don't day trip Durness- as aprt of an ongoing route, yes, but NOT a day trip. You could stay at Gairloch or thereby and day trip Ullapool
Plan 2- Unless you're going to climb a mountain you'll get by with a day on Skye
What time's your flight out? I would stay in the centre, I think, unless you're flight means negotiating the rush hour.Based on your criteria- how about Corstorphine?

