I am finally planning the last month of my upcoming European trip (I leave home July 10th, am starting feel some time pressure!). I have decided to revisit the Basque country, and give Madrid, which I didn't care for too much on my first visit, a second look. Originally I was thinking of flying back to the US on Icelandair with a stop in Reykavik, but it turns out they only fly to/from Madrid in the summer. so I'll take another look at Gaudi's gorgeous architecture - see how Sagrada Familia is coming along - and fly home from Barcelona using FF miles.

I feel that I really short-changed the Basque country back in 2004, and I didn't stop in San Sebastian at all (I did stay in the parador in Hondarribia). So I'm looking for recommendations on how to spend my time, where to stay, and especially where to eat. I know there are other Basque country threads in process right now, so if you also want to link me to an existing post, that's fine.

Some background. I'm a solo, older, female traveler. I don't drive in Europe. I prefer decorative arts and crafts to fine arts, and have quit trying to appreciate art after the Surrealists, plus I have OD'ed on Madonnas and martyrs. I love Art Nouveau and gothic architecture, and will take Art Deco if no AN is available. I am not fond of baroque and rococo. I travel on a budget - I would prefer hotel rooms under 100 USD a night, and a splurge meal is 50 USD for two courses and wine.

This is the itinerary I'm working on (note that I'm trying to avoid Sunday travel):

Sat Oct 3: Fly Lyon to Pau (4 nights). I'm hoping to get to see the Pyrenees this time. Possible day trip by bus to Laruns.

Wed Oct 7: Train to Bayonne (5 nights). Day trips to Biarritz, St. Jean Pied du Port and possibly St. Jean de Luz (did that last time).

Mon Oct 12: Trains to San Sebastian (5 nights). Day trips to ?Bilbao, ?Getaria, ?others - please recommend. Day trips would be by bus or train. Given my lack of interest in modern art, I'm not sure about visiting Bilbao.

Sat Oct 17: Train (long) to Leon (3 nights). Loved Leon last time, and I hear they've been cleaning the cathedral.

Tue Oct 20: Trains to Salamanca (3 nights). I thought I might have to overnight in Burgos, but it looks like I can make the trains work if I leave Leon at 7:00. Should I overnight in Burgos anyway? I haven't been to Salamanca, but last time people kept telling me I should go there instead of Leon.

That leaves me eight nights before flying out of Barcelona Oct 31. Four each for Madrid and Barcelona? Three and five? (I want to be sure to make it to the Salvador Dali museum this time.) Day trip to Segovia or overnight? I loved Toledo last time, but I was there for the Corpus Christi festival and am not sure I want to go back. I could easily drop a night from Pau, except then I'd be traveling to S.S. on a Sunday.

Any help appreciated!

There is decent bus service between Bayonne, Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz, but getting to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a little tricker without a car. The SNCF AUTOCAR runs between Bayonne and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port four times a day, each way, which doesn't give you much time to explore unless you spend the night.

You can read more on San Sebastián-Donostia and what to see and do for 5 nights at: http://tinyurl.com/q2rgvwo

Bilbao is more then the Guggenheim and really needs a couple of days just to get started.

I would overnight in Burgos if you have the chance.

Back in 2004 there was a train to St. Jean Pied de Port... Looks like if I get up early the 7:45 bus arrives at 9:05, and there are returns at 13:31 and 16:25. (Bahn.de wants me to take a train to Cambo les Bains and pick up the bus there. Might be worth a trip of its own?)

Over-nighting in Burgos would mean two shorter train days instead of one longer one, but I'm not fond of one-nighters. What is there in Burgos that's worth the one night?

Thanks for reminding me about Maribel's guide. However, I was hoping for some cheaper lodging options. There is no way I'm staying at the Maria Cristina or the Londres!

Maribel lists three and foir star hotels in SS as well.

But only one of them, in Antiguo, is in my price range. And I really prefer smaller places - guesthouses, B&Bs, etc.

Daytrip to Segovia given limited time frame here. Leave on earliest train possible and spend entire day. Remember to take a look at Maribel's guide for Segovia...very helpful to me last time I visited and she has updated it recently. Excellent resource, as I think you know; make sure to take the walk she outlines to go around and behind the castle.


http://www.maribelsguides.com/mg_segovia.pdf





Madrid/Barcelona, I think 3 and 5, although Segovia really makes it 2 and 5.
But still....Figueres will take the day..

Please follow along to my own planning thread; hopefully you will find some hints there for your own trip and vice versa!

I've visted San Sebastian frequently for many years, and I think you could find for example Pension Urkia a good place to stay. Excellent location, as central as it gets without staying in the noisy Parte vieja/Old town. Basic hotel standard, private bath etc. etc. My wife and I stayed here some years ago, and it was quite ok. From 35 to 60€ for one person/night depending of the season: http://www.pensionurkia.com/
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/pens...kia.en-gb.html

Plenty of places in San Sebastian where you can have a hearty and fine meal without having to break the bank. Have a three course lunch "menu del dia" with wine included with the locals in places like El Rincon or La Zurri for 10-12€.
El Rincon: http://www.restaurantebarelrincon.com/cocina.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...ue_Countr.html
La Zurri: http://www.restaurantelazurri.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...e_Country.html

Also several fine and affordable places in and around Calle Matia in the local feel Antiguo district. Had a great and affordable meal out here a couple of years ago, and I'm pretty sure it was in Taberna Platero in Calle Matia, 33. Bodega Donostiarra in Calle Matia, 36 serves the three course Menu del día for 10-11€.

I also have a very soft spot for the friendly, laid-back and very affordable Chinese Pekin Restaurante in Calle del General Jauregi, 5, on the outskirts of the Parte vieja. Great food and lots of locals, and I've never been to San Sebastián without having at least one meal here. Most mains at 6-8€. (the map is wrong, it's on the eastern end of Parte vieja, close to Hotel Parma): http://www.buscorestaurantes.com/res...-Pekin-29979-0

If you have your main meal at lunchtime (as most locals), you could have some gourmet pintxos at night. Some four-five excellent pintxos will normally set you back some 10-15€, and then add something to drink. Fun and affordable, and we're talking about the famous pintxos in San Sebastian!
http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

<b>eks</b> Thanks! (Nice to see you again).

I am leaning to three and five, especially as I may want another day trip from Barcelona. If I overnight in Burgos it will have to be three and four, though, unless I travel to S.S. on a Sunday.

<b>kimhe</b> Thanks! That is much more the price range I had in mind, and am intrigued by the Chinese restaurant. I have no problem "dining" on pintxos, as I find 10:00 or later for dinner difficult.

Re: Segovia: I thought it magical to see the aqueduct at night. And being able to sit and relax after my meal of suckling pig!...

Try to give Salamanca at least 2 full days.

Hope that helps!

I am giving Salamanca three nights/two days (booked the hotel yesterday), Don't think I'll make it to Segovia this trip, as I'm giving Madrid three nights and there are several things I want to do there. Just booked an AirBnB apartment for Barcelona - the hotels seemed pricy, at least in Eixample.