Well Fodorites we have just returned from our trip to Scotland and it was perfect. We experienced sunny days and rainy days but all went well. Thanks to everyone who provided input over the last several months. I don't think it would have been as memorable had we not had all the shared ideas.

We stayed in Edinburgh for the first five nights and decided for this trip we would try renting a flat rather than staying in a B&B or hotel. It was a good decision. We stayed at "A Flat Apart" which was brand new and really comfortable, although beds in main bedroom are double sized, not queen or king. But this is pretty typical in Great Britain as space is always a premium. It is owned and operated by the owners of the Ashdene Guest House. This flat is a five star yet affordable. When we arrived they had the refrigerator stocked with eggs, bacon, tomatoes, milk, orange juice, coffee and bread. (For subsequent days there was a small grocer and take aways (carry-outs) close by. On the livingroom table was a nice vase of flowers and a small bottle of wine! The bus stop, Lothian bus 24, stopped right outside the front door and went numerous times a day directly to the City Centre. Can't beat that! Bus fares are 1£, which in US dollars is approximately $2. You can get an all day ticket for 2£ 30 (approximately $4.50) and literally ride the busses all day in any direction and back again. We relied totally on public transportation and had no problem getting to where we needed to go.

We bought the all day ticket when we wanted to first visit the City in the morning and then take a bus trip to visit Rosslyn's Chapel, which is approximately a one hour ride in the country. Rosslyn's Chapel was beautiful and currently going through restorations. The 'scaffolding' is open to the public so you can climb up and see the roof top. From the roof top you can see the Rosslyn Castle. A nice day trip. The movie The DiVinci Code has brought it enough fame to increase the visitor levels which of course helps pay for the restorations.

A must of course when in Edinburgh is the Edinburgh Castle. If you have never been to Edinburgh before the Castle is much more than just a castle. It is a small city in itself and you should plan on a half day to tour it all.

The highlight of our last trip to Scotland was St. Andrews so we skipped it this time but am bring it up for those planning their first trip to Scotland. It is a must see and so close to Edinburgh. You can take the train from Edinburgh to Leuchars and then take a bus or cab into St. Andrews. We will probably re-visit it the next time. Walking on the course is exciting and very memorable even if you are not a golfer (which neither my husband nor I are.)

We ran into one restaurant in Edinburgh which did not seem to be overly friendly and tacked on a 10% service fee to the bill. When I inquired if this was the gratuity the waiter was quick to point out that no it was not, it was to cover the laundry of the nice linens, the flowers on the table, etc. The more he talked the more he talked himself right out of a tip. I have never been charged on any vacation in any city for the restaurants linen service, etc.! It was "The Wee Windaes" located on High Street on the Royal Mile. All other restaurants were accomodating to the point of some even refusing a gratuity. It seemed when we ate in a pub, which was most often, if you placed your order with the bar tender a tip was not expected. If you ate in the pub's dining room, a tip was appreciated. When a tip was refused it was when it was most deserved.

We took a bus trip out to see Lauriston Castle which after departing the bus is about a 10 minute walk. Unfortunately we arrived at 4:15 p.m. and their last tour was 4:20 p.m. No one answered the door so they either did not want a final tour or did not hear us knocking. At any rate we spent about an hour and a half walking the grounds, which offered spectacular views. The gardens offer nice benches if you just want to stop and take it all in. Definitely worth the trip, only try and arrive earlier than we did! It is supposed to be beautiful on the inside.

We did stay in the Novotel Hotel on Lauriston Street for our last night and it was exceptional. It even had a view of the Castle. We were a little concerned what the room would be like as we booked it through one of the online hotel booking services at 65% off the listed price. But we were welcomed and provided service as if we paid the high room rate. Dinner there was exceptional and even if you don't stay there we would recommend the restaurant. They did present the AmEx bill for me to sign already converted to US dollars, which by law they cannot do unless they ask you first. I looked at the conversion rate they used and it was very reasonable so I did not make a big deal out of it.

When we left Edinburgh we took the train to Glasgow and from there took a bus trip to Campbeltown. A quaint, and busy, village on the water. The trip there was beautiful, everything you expect to see in Scotland; small mountains, the valley, the sea, plenty of sheep and cattle, sunshine and of course the obligatory rain! We stayed at The Oatfield House (www.oatfieldhouse.org) and it was exceptional. The house was built in the late 1700's and is currently run by great hosts. Their sons recently competed in bag piping and provided a small 'concert' one evening. We could not have asked for a more perfect Scottish environment. Drinking a cup of tea in a 200+ year old manor home, a light rain outside, a fire in the fireplace, and bag pipes playing in the background.

While in Campbeltown we took the tour of the Springbank Distillery. Well worth the small cost which was about 4£. They cannot ship to the US or Canada but we did by a bottle of their signature single malt and brought it home in our suitcase. It made it fine.

Campbeltown provides a view of village life in Scotland which is quite a contrast from Edinburgh. Located on the western shores of Scotland you will be pleasantly surprised by the palm trees!

As most of you know there is so much to see in Scotland you just can't do it all in one trip. Our next trip will probably be more north up into the Highlands. Wherever you go you will enjoy what you see and do. And like us you will probably be 'hooked'. My husband has already been on the net getting ideas for our return.

Our 185 pictures have been reduced to a sizeable 145 now and we have looked at them a dozen times at least since returning.

Great report! here is the actual link to Oatfield House

www.oatfield.org/

Welcome back, MargaretandTony! Thanks for writing a report of your trip, especially all of the details that you provided. Oatfieldhouse looks lovely. Do you mind sharing what else you did in Edinburgh? And how long you were in Campbeltown?

Scotland really is addictive!

Thanks for the report, sounds like you had a very nice time.

If you care to share any other Edinburgh restaurants, that would be great.

How many hours did you plan/use for Roslyn? (including the 2 hours to get there and back).

Thanks!
~amelie

Sorry about the incorrect email address for the Oatfield House. I should know better than to rely on my memory. Thanks for posting the correct one! We caught the tail end of the Edinborough Festival, which goes on non-stop for three weeks in August, so we spent a lot of time just walking (day three was about 9 hours worth) before dinner and we enjoyed the street performers and walking in and out of the shops on Princes Street. Unfortunately I was just getting over an illness so we did not jam pack the days. We visited churches, and church yards (which sounds wierd I am sure to some people but my husband and I love going through old graveyards and reading the markers. The one we spent the most time in was the Greyfriars Kirkyard which is the burial spot of many famous people. Right outside the Kirkyard gate is Bobby's Pub. This is a huge tourist attraction and the food was remarkably good, especially the desserts! Please do some reading about the Greyfriars Bobby and you too will want to go see the statue and take in a pint at the Pub. I would say we ate 95% of the time at Pubs. Whenever we were hungry we would just seek one out, which didn't take long. Most of the time the food was good, but don't wait until you are 'starving' to sit down and order. Service was generally slow (by US standards)on our trip. It was tolerable however because we were on vacation and just exploring. And you will not get only what you order they fill your platters with many side dishes not noted in the menu. This was also common.

We also visited the National Portrait Galery. Although we stuck it out and did all the floors I would say it was a bit disappointing and I would not necessarily recommend it. Once you have seen the Masters you have a standard in your mind and this did not meet that standard. We were unable to get into any of the other Museums because of the long lines and special exhibits, etc. Again, next time!


I would say we spent about an hour and a half at the Rosslyn Chapel which included an excellent tour. Don't try to walk around on your own because you would never learn about what is hidden in all of the masonry. It is amazing considering when it was done. When we walked out of the Chapel gates there were two Inns where meals are served. We picked, for no particular reason, the Roslin Glen Hotel. The food was very good. So if you count the Chapel tour and the dinner we probably spent 2 1/2 hours. However, don't forget the Castle itself. You can walk to it from the Chapel. So if you want to include The Castle you are probably looking at 3 1/2 to 4 hours in Roslin itself. (Not sure why the multiple spellings.) Again, a great memory and I am very glad we took the time.

We only spent two days in Campbeltown and realized when we got there we should have spent at least three. We did have a great meal at the White Hart Pub and as always enjoyed the local flavor of the pubs. A great place for unbelievable desserts is Foncies. A rather new pstry shop in Cambeltown but it appeared to be quite a success. Other meals in Campbeltown again were taken at what ever pub was close when we were hungry. Breakfast was of course served at the Oatfield house and only being there two days we really didn't eat out that much while there. As you sit on the pier or the benches along the harbor people watching can also be such a passtime, although I am not sure I should admit that.

Well I think that answers the questions, thanks everyone.