Scotland Trip Report - sorry its belated - from July 2007
May 28th, 2008, 01:58 PM
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Scotland Trip Report - sorry its belated - from July 2007
Some of you know that I’ve been AWOL on my trip report, for which I am truly sorry, but thought you might like to see it anyway – better late than never. I truly did get some great advice from everyone on this forum and hope this will help others on their planning! I’m going to post what I’ve written so far (it’s taking longer to write up than I thought it would) and then if you have questions, I’ll try to answer. I’ll get to more of the trip report in a few days.
My husband has always wanted to play the Old Course at St. Andrews and missed an opportunity with friends recently, so suggested that we go to Scotland together, with him playing just a little golf but mostly us sightseeing. Additionally, his cousins own a castle on the Isle of Mull that is now a B&B (http://www.glengormcastle.co.uk/) and he wanted to visit them too. We had both been to Scotland before, he for a wedding at the castle some 17 years ago, and me once when I was a teen (Edinburgh and of course, Loch Ness), and twice for work in Edinburgh in the last 10 years. But neither of us had really “seen” that much. So we decided to spend most of our time driving through the highlands, sampling castles and other sites, with side trips to Skye and Mull. The idea was that we would see a lot and decide where we would like to go back to and spend more time in future visits. We flew from San Francisco on United direct to London, then changed to BMI for the short hop to Edinburgh. The basic itinerary was this:
3 nights in Edinburgh –Apex International on Grassmarket.
2 nights in St. Andrews – Brownlees Guest House
1 night near Inverness – Farr Mains B&B in Strathnairn
2 nights in Dornoch – The Bank House at the Eagle Hotel
2 nights in Skye – Tigh an Dochais in Broadford
1 night in Port Appin – Pierhouse Hotel
2 nights in Mull – Glengorm Castle near Tobermory
1 night in Duror – Druimgrianach B&B
1 night in Callander
1 night in Edinburgh – Apex International
I was able to make reservations via email with most of the places we stayed. I booked the Apex International through Expedia, and all the others directly. I knew I needed to book some of our ferry reservations in advance, but couldn’t do it online since we didn’t have a car make and license plate number to provide. We didn’t need a reservation for our first ferry, which was from Armadale to Mallaig, so when we arrived there, I booked all the rest of our ferry reservations at that time. I also made some dinner reservations in advance, again, mostly by email. I rented a UK phone from roadpost, which definitely came in handy when we had a flat tire south of Ullapool on our way down to Skye.
July 3-7 Edinburgh
We flew from San Francisco (United to Heathrow and British Midland to Edinburgh) and arrived Edinburgh at 6 PM on July 4. We have a friend who lives in Edinburgh and she had planned to pick us up at the airport. You may remember that a bomb exploded at the Glasgow airport just the week before, so our friend was unable to drive up to the airport to pick us up due to heightened security measures. She suggested that we take a local bus to the Haymarket stop where she picked us up. This worked out well.
For about a month, our friend had warned us that it had been raining nonstop, but the day we arrived was beautiful. We still were afraid we’d be in rain constantly, but it turned out that as we drove around the country, we managed to miss the rain most of the time. So, this first sight of Edinburgh was just great! She drove us to our hotel, the Apex International, which was just a couple of blocks from the High Street and very conveniently located. We checked in, and thought we’d relax with a quick drink at the bar. Must tell a funny story. I tend to be a martini drinker and without thinking much about it, ordered a martini. The bartender was from Spain and almost served me a glass of Martini & Rossi vermouth on the rocks! Disaster averted when we taught him how to make my kind of martini. We were tired so went across the street and had a quick dinner at Gennaro Ristorante Pizzeria. Good, reasonable pizza and pasta.
The next day, the weather was good again but windy. We decided to walk the Royal Mile and climb to Arthur’s Seat, something I had always wanted to do but never had. On one of my previous visits, I took the tour of Mary King’s Close, which is a bit touristy but does get you into some of the underground areas off the High Street and gives a little bit of a feel for the history of the area. We bought tickets for the evening and then enjoyed our walk. I had wanted to visit Holyrood but it was closed to the public for a few days. I also wanted to do some shopping for sweaters, but not the traditional plaid/wool sweaters I normally associate with Scotland. I was lucky to discover two excellent clothing designers in Edinburgh– Bill Baber Knitwear Design (66 Grassmarket) and Joyce Forsyth Designer Knitwear (42 Candlemaker Row). I have had major compliments on the things I brought back from both of them! For dinner that night we ate at Stac Polly, on St. Mary’s Street, just off the High Street and easy walking distance from our hotel. This was a fantastic restaurant, very classy and simply decorated with white table cloths and small oil lamps on the table. I noticed they were playing Norah Jones in the background. The food was very good: we shared a sweet potato and goat cheese stack with seasonal leaves and a honey and soya dressing, followed by entrees of grilled sea bass with chorizo and wilted spinach with a mustard and whisky crème, and loin of lamb with hazelnut and peach stuffing, wrapped with pancetta, served with green beans and a fig balsamic vinaigrette. Writing that I think I’d like to have it again! We ended our evening there with a long conversation with the chef, who had just returned from Egypt.
The next day the rain caught up with us. First we walked over to George Street to the Italian restaurant Centotre to make a reservation for dinner that night. Then, we had decided we wanted to go to Leith, since neither of us had ever ventured away from the Royal Mile area in past visits. So, we walked (walk from east end Princes Street about 20-30 minutes down Leith Street and Leith Walk). It was raining, but lightly, and we took advice from this forum to eat at the Shore pub. Have to admit by then our feet were tired, so we rode the bus back again. We also took the bus to pick up our rental car. I can’t remember the exact glitch, maybe it was my husband forgetting to bring his passport, but in the end we had to go back to the hotel and come back with all the proper documentation. So don’t forget your passport when you rent a car! But we were glad we got the car the afternoon before we needed it, thanks to a suggestion by Janisj. We met up later with friends at the Dome (in an old bank on George Street) for drinks, and had the best martini of the trip there – the bartender made a really really good one! Very nice, elegant place. Then we walked down the street to Centotre. Very good, very simply prepared Italian food in a clean, modern setting: started with an arugula salad with pears and parmesan cheese, followed by spaghetti with clams, and spaghetti verdure with chard and broccoli. I really liked the Italian language lessons broadcast in the restrooms; I learned how to say, “excuse me, is there a shoe shop in the area?”
On July 7, after latte and scones across the street, we left on our road trip. We got an early start out of town to visit Rosslyn Chapel (opposite direction of where we were really heading, but I’d always wanted to see it). Enjoyed the tour very much, and then walked down to the castle ruins. Retraced our steps and followed the signs to the Forth Road Bridge, then took the Fife Coast Route (A985) to Culross. Toured the Palace and town with an excellent guide and had a nice, light lunch in the tearoom. From there, we drove to St. Andrews where we stayed at Brownlees Guest House (7 Murray Place), with the very amiable and helpful hosts, Trevor and Jacqui. I can’t remember who suggested the Peat Inn in Ceres (6 m. SW of St. Andrews), but thank you – we had a fantastic dinner there that night. (This may be the only restaurant where I felt a bit underdressed, although no one there made me feel bad about it.) Started with an amuse bouche of chilled cucumber and watercress soup, then we both had appetizers, fresh pea veloute with tortelloni of ricotta and lovage, and beetroot cured salmon with dill and cucumber dressing. Entrees were duck breast, served with a layered side of potato, onion and chanterelles, and broad beans, and roasted and braised lamb with an aubergine compote, and rosemary jus. When we returned to St. Andrews it was still light out at 10 PM, so we parked on The Scores and walked along the water. Made a dinner reservation for the Seafood Restaurant for early the next evening since my husband was planning to try to walk on the Old Course the following morning (and for this, he had to get up very early). Reading this it makes me feel like all we did was eat!
St. Andrews, July 7-9
Our first morning at breakfast at Brownlees we met another couple, from California as we are, whose son is in school at St. Andrews. They were visiting because the son was about to graduate and would then be going to Oxford for graduate school. The husband was planning to go to the Old Course the following morning and try to walk on also. Apparently, this is the way to go. It is very difficult to get a set tee time at the Old Course, although very expensive packages are usually available through travel agents. The alternative is, if you just show up early in the morning and get in line, they will match you up with groups that are smaller than a foursome, as long as they are agreeable. So that’s what both these guys were planning to do.
After breakfast, it being Sunday, we walked along the beach and all over the Old Course, taking a few pictures. It was super windy, as we expected. Trevor, our host, explained that the Old Course is closed on Sundays because it is a municipal course – the charter states that it has to be “common” ground on Sundays. Historically they used to let sheep on the course to graze, not anymore, but people do walk and picnic all day.
Then we did the Fife Coastal drive through the picturesque fishing villages of Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem. We parked the car and wandered around in all of these villages, and had lunch at the Anstruther Fish Restaurant, local haddock and chips. Apparently they won an award for best fish and chips in 2006/2007. Not much atmosphere, but good fish! Anstruther was definitely the most touristy of the towns, with lots of families and children milling around. Pittenweem was quiet and really felt like a quaint, fishing village. From there we followed the coastal route through Upper and Lower Largo, then took the A915 to Glenrothes, and the A92 to the turn off for Frenchie and Falkland, where we visited Falkland Palace, which dominates the town. We took the self-guided tour of the Palace, which was very interesting. The gardens are beautiful and while we were there, a falconer from the Scottish Deer Center in Cupar was doing falcon demonstrations and had brought five falcons, including a merlin and a kestrel, which we could get very close to.
From there we went back to St. Andrews and to dinner at the Seafood Restaurant, one of our more expensive meals in Scotland. The building is basically a glass box, and sits right on the edge of the water – you can see the beach and the Old Course in the distance. The 3 course prix fixe dinner was ₤45 per person, plus wine, etc. but it was very tasty and beautifully presented. Started with an amuse bouche of carrot soup with truffle oil served in an espresso cup, appetizer was crab and salmon sushi with wasabi, pickles and red pepper syrup, entrees were pan seared fillet of turbot, crayfish and sundried tomato risotto, garlic butter and grilled fillet of halibut, pine nut crusts, polenta cake, steamed bok choi, and vanilla foam. We also were given a pre-dessert of white chocolate and espresso panacotta with whipped cream, followed by desserts of vanilla cheesecake with rhubarb sorbet & syrup and raspberry panacotta with biscotti & syrup. Although the food was really good, the atmosphere was not nearly as wonderful as the Peat Inn, to my mind. Since we ate so early, the sun came through the glass box directly in my eyes and my husband’s back so we were both dazzled and too warm. The restaurant’s shades didn’t help very much.
Finally, the next morning my husband got to fulfill his dream of playing the Old Course. He ended up fifth in line at 6 AM, along with the other gentleman from our guesthouse, and the two of them got onto the course at 720 AM, playing with a father/son from Texas. They were so lucky, because there was very little wind and the temperature was actually warm, almost hot. They had a lot of fun. I took advantage of the time to walk around St. Andrews, visiting the Abbey and the Castle, doing a little shopping and killing time till about noon, when we met back at the guesthouse to say goodbye to Trevor and Jacqui. We left across the Tay Bridge, around Dundee, and through Perth and got on the A9 towards Inverness. We stopped for a late lunch in Pitlochry and visited the Edradour Distillery. Back on the A9, exited at Farr and stayed in a B&B called Farr Mains, with Christina and James. It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, but in a beautiful valley and an old 1852 house that had been in James’ family since his grandfather purchased it. They had two cute dogs and 2 llamas in the backyard. A very nice touch was the small carafe of whisky in our room, as well as lovely, warm robes. Not many choices in the way of dinner, but we did drive down the road a ways to the Grouse & Trout Restaurant in the Steadings. I believe that is the only restaurant along the road between Farr and Port Augustus. The food was good, not spectacular, and a bit overpriced. My husband had a ribeye steak with onion gravy, and I had the But and Ben casserole, which was highland game (venison and pheasant) slowly cooked in a red wine gravy.
More later…
My husband has always wanted to play the Old Course at St. Andrews and missed an opportunity with friends recently, so suggested that we go to Scotland together, with him playing just a little golf but mostly us sightseeing. Additionally, his cousins own a castle on the Isle of Mull that is now a B&B (http://www.glengormcastle.co.uk/) and he wanted to visit them too. We had both been to Scotland before, he for a wedding at the castle some 17 years ago, and me once when I was a teen (Edinburgh and of course, Loch Ness), and twice for work in Edinburgh in the last 10 years. But neither of us had really “seen” that much. So we decided to spend most of our time driving through the highlands, sampling castles and other sites, with side trips to Skye and Mull. The idea was that we would see a lot and decide where we would like to go back to and spend more time in future visits. We flew from San Francisco on United direct to London, then changed to BMI for the short hop to Edinburgh. The basic itinerary was this:
3 nights in Edinburgh –Apex International on Grassmarket.
2 nights in St. Andrews – Brownlees Guest House
1 night near Inverness – Farr Mains B&B in Strathnairn
2 nights in Dornoch – The Bank House at the Eagle Hotel
2 nights in Skye – Tigh an Dochais in Broadford
1 night in Port Appin – Pierhouse Hotel
2 nights in Mull – Glengorm Castle near Tobermory
1 night in Duror – Druimgrianach B&B
1 night in Callander
1 night in Edinburgh – Apex International
I was able to make reservations via email with most of the places we stayed. I booked the Apex International through Expedia, and all the others directly. I knew I needed to book some of our ferry reservations in advance, but couldn’t do it online since we didn’t have a car make and license plate number to provide. We didn’t need a reservation for our first ferry, which was from Armadale to Mallaig, so when we arrived there, I booked all the rest of our ferry reservations at that time. I also made some dinner reservations in advance, again, mostly by email. I rented a UK phone from roadpost, which definitely came in handy when we had a flat tire south of Ullapool on our way down to Skye.
July 3-7 Edinburgh
We flew from San Francisco (United to Heathrow and British Midland to Edinburgh) and arrived Edinburgh at 6 PM on July 4. We have a friend who lives in Edinburgh and she had planned to pick us up at the airport. You may remember that a bomb exploded at the Glasgow airport just the week before, so our friend was unable to drive up to the airport to pick us up due to heightened security measures. She suggested that we take a local bus to the Haymarket stop where she picked us up. This worked out well.
For about a month, our friend had warned us that it had been raining nonstop, but the day we arrived was beautiful. We still were afraid we’d be in rain constantly, but it turned out that as we drove around the country, we managed to miss the rain most of the time. So, this first sight of Edinburgh was just great! She drove us to our hotel, the Apex International, which was just a couple of blocks from the High Street and very conveniently located. We checked in, and thought we’d relax with a quick drink at the bar. Must tell a funny story. I tend to be a martini drinker and without thinking much about it, ordered a martini. The bartender was from Spain and almost served me a glass of Martini & Rossi vermouth on the rocks! Disaster averted when we taught him how to make my kind of martini. We were tired so went across the street and had a quick dinner at Gennaro Ristorante Pizzeria. Good, reasonable pizza and pasta.
The next day, the weather was good again but windy. We decided to walk the Royal Mile and climb to Arthur’s Seat, something I had always wanted to do but never had. On one of my previous visits, I took the tour of Mary King’s Close, which is a bit touristy but does get you into some of the underground areas off the High Street and gives a little bit of a feel for the history of the area. We bought tickets for the evening and then enjoyed our walk. I had wanted to visit Holyrood but it was closed to the public for a few days. I also wanted to do some shopping for sweaters, but not the traditional plaid/wool sweaters I normally associate with Scotland. I was lucky to discover two excellent clothing designers in Edinburgh– Bill Baber Knitwear Design (66 Grassmarket) and Joyce Forsyth Designer Knitwear (42 Candlemaker Row). I have had major compliments on the things I brought back from both of them! For dinner that night we ate at Stac Polly, on St. Mary’s Street, just off the High Street and easy walking distance from our hotel. This was a fantastic restaurant, very classy and simply decorated with white table cloths and small oil lamps on the table. I noticed they were playing Norah Jones in the background. The food was very good: we shared a sweet potato and goat cheese stack with seasonal leaves and a honey and soya dressing, followed by entrees of grilled sea bass with chorizo and wilted spinach with a mustard and whisky crème, and loin of lamb with hazelnut and peach stuffing, wrapped with pancetta, served with green beans and a fig balsamic vinaigrette. Writing that I think I’d like to have it again! We ended our evening there with a long conversation with the chef, who had just returned from Egypt.
The next day the rain caught up with us. First we walked over to George Street to the Italian restaurant Centotre to make a reservation for dinner that night. Then, we had decided we wanted to go to Leith, since neither of us had ever ventured away from the Royal Mile area in past visits. So, we walked (walk from east end Princes Street about 20-30 minutes down Leith Street and Leith Walk). It was raining, but lightly, and we took advice from this forum to eat at the Shore pub. Have to admit by then our feet were tired, so we rode the bus back again. We also took the bus to pick up our rental car. I can’t remember the exact glitch, maybe it was my husband forgetting to bring his passport, but in the end we had to go back to the hotel and come back with all the proper documentation. So don’t forget your passport when you rent a car! But we were glad we got the car the afternoon before we needed it, thanks to a suggestion by Janisj. We met up later with friends at the Dome (in an old bank on George Street) for drinks, and had the best martini of the trip there – the bartender made a really really good one! Very nice, elegant place. Then we walked down the street to Centotre. Very good, very simply prepared Italian food in a clean, modern setting: started with an arugula salad with pears and parmesan cheese, followed by spaghetti with clams, and spaghetti verdure with chard and broccoli. I really liked the Italian language lessons broadcast in the restrooms; I learned how to say, “excuse me, is there a shoe shop in the area?”
On July 7, after latte and scones across the street, we left on our road trip. We got an early start out of town to visit Rosslyn Chapel (opposite direction of where we were really heading, but I’d always wanted to see it). Enjoyed the tour very much, and then walked down to the castle ruins. Retraced our steps and followed the signs to the Forth Road Bridge, then took the Fife Coast Route (A985) to Culross. Toured the Palace and town with an excellent guide and had a nice, light lunch in the tearoom. From there, we drove to St. Andrews where we stayed at Brownlees Guest House (7 Murray Place), with the very amiable and helpful hosts, Trevor and Jacqui. I can’t remember who suggested the Peat Inn in Ceres (6 m. SW of St. Andrews), but thank you – we had a fantastic dinner there that night. (This may be the only restaurant where I felt a bit underdressed, although no one there made me feel bad about it.) Started with an amuse bouche of chilled cucumber and watercress soup, then we both had appetizers, fresh pea veloute with tortelloni of ricotta and lovage, and beetroot cured salmon with dill and cucumber dressing. Entrees were duck breast, served with a layered side of potato, onion and chanterelles, and broad beans, and roasted and braised lamb with an aubergine compote, and rosemary jus. When we returned to St. Andrews it was still light out at 10 PM, so we parked on The Scores and walked along the water. Made a dinner reservation for the Seafood Restaurant for early the next evening since my husband was planning to try to walk on the Old Course the following morning (and for this, he had to get up very early). Reading this it makes me feel like all we did was eat!
St. Andrews, July 7-9
Our first morning at breakfast at Brownlees we met another couple, from California as we are, whose son is in school at St. Andrews. They were visiting because the son was about to graduate and would then be going to Oxford for graduate school. The husband was planning to go to the Old Course the following morning and try to walk on also. Apparently, this is the way to go. It is very difficult to get a set tee time at the Old Course, although very expensive packages are usually available through travel agents. The alternative is, if you just show up early in the morning and get in line, they will match you up with groups that are smaller than a foursome, as long as they are agreeable. So that’s what both these guys were planning to do.
After breakfast, it being Sunday, we walked along the beach and all over the Old Course, taking a few pictures. It was super windy, as we expected. Trevor, our host, explained that the Old Course is closed on Sundays because it is a municipal course – the charter states that it has to be “common” ground on Sundays. Historically they used to let sheep on the course to graze, not anymore, but people do walk and picnic all day.
Then we did the Fife Coastal drive through the picturesque fishing villages of Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem. We parked the car and wandered around in all of these villages, and had lunch at the Anstruther Fish Restaurant, local haddock and chips. Apparently they won an award for best fish and chips in 2006/2007. Not much atmosphere, but good fish! Anstruther was definitely the most touristy of the towns, with lots of families and children milling around. Pittenweem was quiet and really felt like a quaint, fishing village. From there we followed the coastal route through Upper and Lower Largo, then took the A915 to Glenrothes, and the A92 to the turn off for Frenchie and Falkland, where we visited Falkland Palace, which dominates the town. We took the self-guided tour of the Palace, which was very interesting. The gardens are beautiful and while we were there, a falconer from the Scottish Deer Center in Cupar was doing falcon demonstrations and had brought five falcons, including a merlin and a kestrel, which we could get very close to.
From there we went back to St. Andrews and to dinner at the Seafood Restaurant, one of our more expensive meals in Scotland. The building is basically a glass box, and sits right on the edge of the water – you can see the beach and the Old Course in the distance. The 3 course prix fixe dinner was ₤45 per person, plus wine, etc. but it was very tasty and beautifully presented. Started with an amuse bouche of carrot soup with truffle oil served in an espresso cup, appetizer was crab and salmon sushi with wasabi, pickles and red pepper syrup, entrees were pan seared fillet of turbot, crayfish and sundried tomato risotto, garlic butter and grilled fillet of halibut, pine nut crusts, polenta cake, steamed bok choi, and vanilla foam. We also were given a pre-dessert of white chocolate and espresso panacotta with whipped cream, followed by desserts of vanilla cheesecake with rhubarb sorbet & syrup and raspberry panacotta with biscotti & syrup. Although the food was really good, the atmosphere was not nearly as wonderful as the Peat Inn, to my mind. Since we ate so early, the sun came through the glass box directly in my eyes and my husband’s back so we were both dazzled and too warm. The restaurant’s shades didn’t help very much.
Finally, the next morning my husband got to fulfill his dream of playing the Old Course. He ended up fifth in line at 6 AM, along with the other gentleman from our guesthouse, and the two of them got onto the course at 720 AM, playing with a father/son from Texas. They were so lucky, because there was very little wind and the temperature was actually warm, almost hot. They had a lot of fun. I took advantage of the time to walk around St. Andrews, visiting the Abbey and the Castle, doing a little shopping and killing time till about noon, when we met back at the guesthouse to say goodbye to Trevor and Jacqui. We left across the Tay Bridge, around Dundee, and through Perth and got on the A9 towards Inverness. We stopped for a late lunch in Pitlochry and visited the Edradour Distillery. Back on the A9, exited at Farr and stayed in a B&B called Farr Mains, with Christina and James. It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, but in a beautiful valley and an old 1852 house that had been in James’ family since his grandfather purchased it. They had two cute dogs and 2 llamas in the backyard. A very nice touch was the small carafe of whisky in our room, as well as lovely, warm robes. Not many choices in the way of dinner, but we did drive down the road a ways to the Grouse & Trout Restaurant in the Steadings. I believe that is the only restaurant along the road between Farr and Port Augustus. The food was good, not spectacular, and a bit overpriced. My husband had a ribeye steak with onion gravy, and I had the But and Ben casserole, which was highland game (venison and pheasant) slowly cooked in a red wine gravy.
More later…
Jun 2nd, 2008, 02:47 PM
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I've been really busy at work so haven't had time to continue this report as quickly as I'd hoped. Here's a short installment and I'll try to get to more tomorrow.
Dornoch, July 10-11
Had a wonderful traditional Scottish breakfast (eggs, sausages and bacon, grilled tomatos and potatos, along with fresh strawberries and blueberries) and got a late morning start for the Inverness area. Visited Cawdor Castle, where we enjoyed the house tour and the gardens, then visited Culloden Moor. Arriving at 1:45 PM we had missed the 1:30 tour, so walked around on our own. Very cold, windy and grey, and a somber place. Have to admit that I’ve been reading (and now re-reading) the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon and I spent a bit of time looking for the Frasers and other clans brought to life in that series. From there, we found the Clava Cairns, which were deserted and sheltered, so much warmer than out on the open moor. The history of the cairns (4000 years old!) and the quiet beauty of the setting were really enjoyable.
We drove straight through Inverness and headed north. After a nice stop at the Glenmorangie distillery at Tain, we arrived in Dornoch. We had a nice, large room (no. 23) in the Bank House, operated by the Eagle Hotel. Since Dornoch is pretty small, we wandered around looking for a place to eat dinner – ended up at the Dornoch Inn, where we had a decent bar meal, good but nothing special.
After breakfast the next morning, we drove to Royal Dornoch to check it out. A few months before, my husband had met a woman who plays golf on the European Ladies tour, and she lives with her Scottish husband outside of Inverness. I had made arrangements for the two of them to play Royal Dornoch. Her husband would caddy. I would sightsee in town. It was a pretty gray day, but not raining, and quite windy. After getting the lay of the land, we had 1 ˝ hours to kill before their tee time, so we drove up to Golspie. Someone on this board, Sheila I’m pretty sure, had said that there was good shopping in Golspie, but honestly, I couldn’t find it. How did I miss it? With not much time, did a drive by of Dunrobin Castle but didn’t have time to go in.
Back at Royal Dornoch, we shopped in the pro shop and I wished the golfers well. Headed out to wander around Dornoch. I found a great little café to have lunch, a meat pie with salad and a cappuccino. Everyone told me there wasn’t a lot to do in Dornoch, which is true, although it is a very lovely little town. It was originally recommended to me by friends who stay there for a month every year, and I could certainly see the charm.
But I have to say the highlight of the stay there was our dinner at 2Quail. This is a small luxury hotel/restaurant (only 3 rooms and 12 seats for dining) operated by Michael and Kerensa Carr. They serve a changing 3 course dinner, using primarily local produce and meats.
We took our golfing friends with us and had quite a long enjoyable conversation with the Carrs as the evening wound down. Our friends, who travel and dine all over the world while traveling on the golf tour, told us that they thought the meal was especially good. We had an amuse bouche of chilled sweet pea soup with white truffle oil. The starter was a wilted lettuce salad with chicken in a thai peanut sauce, followed by entrees of crusted halibut served over warm, cherry tomatos, and lamb served with potato gratin and mashed turnips and rutabaga on spinach. Dessert choices were pot de crème or pineapple soufflé. My rather prosaic description doesn’t do the meal justice as it was fantastic!
Dornoch, July 10-11
Had a wonderful traditional Scottish breakfast (eggs, sausages and bacon, grilled tomatos and potatos, along with fresh strawberries and blueberries) and got a late morning start for the Inverness area. Visited Cawdor Castle, where we enjoyed the house tour and the gardens, then visited Culloden Moor. Arriving at 1:45 PM we had missed the 1:30 tour, so walked around on our own. Very cold, windy and grey, and a somber place. Have to admit that I’ve been reading (and now re-reading) the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon and I spent a bit of time looking for the Frasers and other clans brought to life in that series. From there, we found the Clava Cairns, which were deserted and sheltered, so much warmer than out on the open moor. The history of the cairns (4000 years old!) and the quiet beauty of the setting were really enjoyable.
We drove straight through Inverness and headed north. After a nice stop at the Glenmorangie distillery at Tain, we arrived in Dornoch. We had a nice, large room (no. 23) in the Bank House, operated by the Eagle Hotel. Since Dornoch is pretty small, we wandered around looking for a place to eat dinner – ended up at the Dornoch Inn, where we had a decent bar meal, good but nothing special.
After breakfast the next morning, we drove to Royal Dornoch to check it out. A few months before, my husband had met a woman who plays golf on the European Ladies tour, and she lives with her Scottish husband outside of Inverness. I had made arrangements for the two of them to play Royal Dornoch. Her husband would caddy. I would sightsee in town. It was a pretty gray day, but not raining, and quite windy. After getting the lay of the land, we had 1 ˝ hours to kill before their tee time, so we drove up to Golspie. Someone on this board, Sheila I’m pretty sure, had said that there was good shopping in Golspie, but honestly, I couldn’t find it. How did I miss it? With not much time, did a drive by of Dunrobin Castle but didn’t have time to go in.
Back at Royal Dornoch, we shopped in the pro shop and I wished the golfers well. Headed out to wander around Dornoch. I found a great little café to have lunch, a meat pie with salad and a cappuccino. Everyone told me there wasn’t a lot to do in Dornoch, which is true, although it is a very lovely little town. It was originally recommended to me by friends who stay there for a month every year, and I could certainly see the charm.
But I have to say the highlight of the stay there was our dinner at 2Quail. This is a small luxury hotel/restaurant (only 3 rooms and 12 seats for dining) operated by Michael and Kerensa Carr. They serve a changing 3 course dinner, using primarily local produce and meats.
We took our golfing friends with us and had quite a long enjoyable conversation with the Carrs as the evening wound down. Our friends, who travel and dine all over the world while traveling on the golf tour, told us that they thought the meal was especially good. We had an amuse bouche of chilled sweet pea soup with white truffle oil. The starter was a wilted lettuce salad with chicken in a thai peanut sauce, followed by entrees of crusted halibut served over warm, cherry tomatos, and lamb served with potato gratin and mashed turnips and rutabaga on spinach. Dessert choices were pot de crème or pineapple soufflé. My rather prosaic description doesn’t do the meal justice as it was fantastic!
Jun 2nd, 2008, 03:21 PM
#4
Better late than never 
Great report! Getting to play the Old Course and Dornoch - and eat at the Peat Inn and those other great places - - -
I've eaten a the Peat Inn a few times (one of my favorite places anywhere) and at Anstruther Fish restaurant a couple of times, but not at 2Quail or at the Seafood Restaurant. I am drooling w/ your descriptions!
Great report! Getting to play the Old Course and Dornoch - and eat at the Peat Inn and those other great places - - -
I've eaten a the Peat Inn a few times (one of my favorite places anywhere) and at Anstruther Fish restaurant a couple of times, but not at 2Quail or at the Seafood Restaurant. I am drooling w/ your descriptions!
Jun 2nd, 2008, 05:51 PM
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JulieAA, I am LOVING your report - fantastic detail. I know how long it takes to write a report, so thanks for the time you're giving it. Don't hurry, but I'm really looking forward to the rest. It's great to read about my favorite places and even better to read about future possibilities! I need this Scotland fix.
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Hi everyone, I'm so glad you are enjoying this - it is fun to relive it by writing about it! I'm going to try to post a slideshow from kodak gallery but since I've never done that before, I'm not sure it will work. If it doesn't and someone else knows what I'm doing wrong, please tell me. Anyway, these are just the photos from Edinburgh to Dornoch. There are many many more I promise you.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
Link seems really long, hope it works.
Julie
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
Link seems really long, hope it works.
Julie
Jun 4th, 2008, 05:18 AM
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Could it be? My son and I could be the ones your husband played the Old Course with--we were there on a six-week golfing holiday and played the Old nearly every day. Ask your hubby if he remembers Jinx and Matt Hoover?
Anyway, glad he got on and enjoyed.
Cheers,
Jinx Hoover
[email protected]
Anyway, glad he got on and enjoyed.
Cheers,
Jinx Hoover
[email protected]
Jun 4th, 2008, 07:47 AM
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Hi Jinx,
He just left on a fishing trip in Mexico so I can't ask him. His name is Fred though, so if you remember him, then it WAS you! What a small world. He did have a great time that day and had only nice things to say about his golfing partners.
He just left on a fishing trip in Mexico so I can't ask him. His name is Fred though, so if you remember him, then it WAS you! What a small world. He did have a great time that day and had only nice things to say about his golfing partners.
Jun 4th, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Okay, next installment.
Skye, June 12-13
We were excited as we departed for the west coast and the Isle of Skye. We drove through Bonar Bridge and on the A837 through Strath Oykel, then started south on the A835. Stopped in Ullapool for lunch, at the Seaforth near the harbor, which was very touristy and full of people from a bus tour. The food was good though (smoked salmon plate), the staff efficient at getting the crowds served quickly.
Scenery along the drive south was just lovely. After Ullapool we continued south and somewhere along the A835 before we got to the A832, we had a flat tire. Fortunately, we had a roadpost cellphone and were able to call. Even though we ended up changing the tire ourselves, we did find out where we could get the tire fixed the next day.
We stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, and got some great photos and enjoyed the tour. Thanks to whoever gave the great tip about driving up on the hill and getting a shot from above. From there, we drove to Broadford and our B&B Tigh an Dochais, which we learned about on this forum. Our host, Neil, was so very helpful and turned out to be a fantastic cook. He made really great dinner suggestions for both nights and made our reservations for us in advance.
Since we were arriving late the first day, he suggested the Harbour, where we had a three course prix fixe dinner at ₤16 each. We could walk there easily from the B&B. We started with smoked salmon and potato leek soup, and for entrees had fresh, local hake pan fried and served with lemon, caper and parsley sauce, with potatos or brown rice, and fresh vegetables. Dessert choices were baked lemon cheesecake and apples with cinnamon oaty crumbles and cream. We splurged on a bottle of dry French Muscat (₤13). Walking back to the B&B after dinner, we stopped in at a local pub, the Claymore, and chatted up the locals.
Next morning, we woke up to rain, which put a literal damper on our plans for some of the local sights. But we were appeased with the most amazing breakfast prepared by Neil: fresh fruit, homemade yogurt and bread, muffins filled with raspberries and pinenuts, smoked haddock, hot with a butter/parsley sauce, local sausages, free range eggs. I have also to commend Neil on having probably the only actual pepper grinder I saw (and used!) the entire time we were in Scotland! Later, after my husband went into Kyle to have the tire repaired, we set off to explore Skye.
I wish we had had more time on Skye, because the low clouds and rain kept us from setting out on foot to explore more of the scenery, starting with the Trotternish Peninsula. It was raining hard around the time we reached the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock. We stopped at Flodigarry Country House Hotel for a snack. By the time we had gotten to the vicinity of Dunvegan Castle, the rain had tapered off and the rest of the afternoon was clear. We stopped to visit the Fairy Mounds that Neil had told us about. I looked to see if I wrote down where they were located, because they are well worth visiting, but I don't think I did. There are some pictures I took of that area, which seems to be off the normal tourist route.
After cleaning up back at the B&B, we set off on the road to Elgol for dinner at Coruisk House, another great restaurant suggested by Neil. The owner, Robin, is a total character who used to be a professional rock climber, and climbed all over Europe and America. He did all the major climbs in Yosemite. So he shuts the restaurant down from October till March of every year, and skiis in Europe, buys wine in France and visits friends in America.
All the seafood that we ordered at Coruisk House was totally fresh, just caught that day. It was so yummy! We started with a small sizzling platter of garlic cloves in olive oil to spread on bread, and marinated olives. Then a lobster salad with fresh arugula. Main course was a huge platter of crab, prawns, squatties (which I never heard of before but are a very small, local saltwater lobster, kind of like crayfish), and another whole lobster. We enjoyed that with a bottle of muscadet. Late that night, on the road back to the B&B, I got one of my favorite photographs from the entire trip, of a mountain with a layer of clouds – you’ll have to check my next batch of photos to see it, because it was an awesome sight.
More later...
Skye, June 12-13
We were excited as we departed for the west coast and the Isle of Skye. We drove through Bonar Bridge and on the A837 through Strath Oykel, then started south on the A835. Stopped in Ullapool for lunch, at the Seaforth near the harbor, which was very touristy and full of people from a bus tour. The food was good though (smoked salmon plate), the staff efficient at getting the crowds served quickly.
Scenery along the drive south was just lovely. After Ullapool we continued south and somewhere along the A835 before we got to the A832, we had a flat tire. Fortunately, we had a roadpost cellphone and were able to call. Even though we ended up changing the tire ourselves, we did find out where we could get the tire fixed the next day.
We stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, and got some great photos and enjoyed the tour. Thanks to whoever gave the great tip about driving up on the hill and getting a shot from above. From there, we drove to Broadford and our B&B Tigh an Dochais, which we learned about on this forum. Our host, Neil, was so very helpful and turned out to be a fantastic cook. He made really great dinner suggestions for both nights and made our reservations for us in advance.
Since we were arriving late the first day, he suggested the Harbour, where we had a three course prix fixe dinner at ₤16 each. We could walk there easily from the B&B. We started with smoked salmon and potato leek soup, and for entrees had fresh, local hake pan fried and served with lemon, caper and parsley sauce, with potatos or brown rice, and fresh vegetables. Dessert choices were baked lemon cheesecake and apples with cinnamon oaty crumbles and cream. We splurged on a bottle of dry French Muscat (₤13). Walking back to the B&B after dinner, we stopped in at a local pub, the Claymore, and chatted up the locals.
Next morning, we woke up to rain, which put a literal damper on our plans for some of the local sights. But we were appeased with the most amazing breakfast prepared by Neil: fresh fruit, homemade yogurt and bread, muffins filled with raspberries and pinenuts, smoked haddock, hot with a butter/parsley sauce, local sausages, free range eggs. I have also to commend Neil on having probably the only actual pepper grinder I saw (and used!) the entire time we were in Scotland! Later, after my husband went into Kyle to have the tire repaired, we set off to explore Skye.
I wish we had had more time on Skye, because the low clouds and rain kept us from setting out on foot to explore more of the scenery, starting with the Trotternish Peninsula. It was raining hard around the time we reached the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock. We stopped at Flodigarry Country House Hotel for a snack. By the time we had gotten to the vicinity of Dunvegan Castle, the rain had tapered off and the rest of the afternoon was clear. We stopped to visit the Fairy Mounds that Neil had told us about. I looked to see if I wrote down where they were located, because they are well worth visiting, but I don't think I did. There are some pictures I took of that area, which seems to be off the normal tourist route.
After cleaning up back at the B&B, we set off on the road to Elgol for dinner at Coruisk House, another great restaurant suggested by Neil. The owner, Robin, is a total character who used to be a professional rock climber, and climbed all over Europe and America. He did all the major climbs in Yosemite. So he shuts the restaurant down from October till March of every year, and skiis in Europe, buys wine in France and visits friends in America.
All the seafood that we ordered at Coruisk House was totally fresh, just caught that day. It was so yummy! We started with a small sizzling platter of garlic cloves in olive oil to spread on bread, and marinated olives. Then a lobster salad with fresh arugula. Main course was a huge platter of crab, prawns, squatties (which I never heard of before but are a very small, local saltwater lobster, kind of like crayfish), and another whole lobster. We enjoyed that with a bottle of muscadet. Late that night, on the road back to the B&B, I got one of my favorite photographs from the entire trip, of a mountain with a layer of clouds – you’ll have to check my next batch of photos to see it, because it was an awesome sight.
More later...
Jun 6th, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Hi again,
I've just created another slideshow of pictures from Dornoch to Skye and I tried using Noe's trick of tinyurl, mentioned above. Someone please let me know if it works!!! Thanks.
http://tinyurl.com/5hksuw
Everyone have a great weekend!
Julie
I've just created another slideshow of pictures from Dornoch to Skye and I tried using Noe's trick of tinyurl, mentioned above. Someone please let me know if it works!!! Thanks.
http://tinyurl.com/5hksuw
Everyone have a great weekend!
Julie
Jun 6th, 2008, 11:07 AM
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Thanks!!! I appreciate it. I felt like my pictures kept getting better the longer I was on the trip - some of the ones at the end, on Mull and then Rannoch Moor, were the best! So stay tuned...
Jun 9th, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Hi Sheila,
Thanks so much for your advice, and Janis and the others. It was very helpful.
I'll be able to get another installment up tomorrow. I wish I had more time so I could just get the whole thing up, but I have to do it piecemeal.
Julie
Thanks so much for your advice, and Janis and the others. It was very helpful.
I'll be able to get another installment up tomorrow. I wish I had more time so I could just get the whole thing up, but I have to do it piecemeal.
Julie
Jun 10th, 2008, 01:23 PM
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Pt. Appin, July 14
After another wonderful breakfast at Tigh an Dochais, we left for Armadale and the ferry to Mallaig. We drove the A851 past Isleornsay and then took a right turn onto that unnumbered single track road everyone always talks about. Beautiful drive, and arrived in plenty of time for the ferry. Great little clothing store called Ragamuffin (there’s also one on the High Street in Edinburgh) and coffee shop right by the ferry terminal. Because I did not have the license number for our rental car in advance I waited for this chance to make all my reservations (to Mull and back again to Oban). We took the 12:55 ferry and landed during weather that was threatening rain but not yet raining. We drove along Loch nan Uamh where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed and departed during the ’45 and then stopped at the Glenfinnan monument. We had lunch in Fort William at the Ben Nevis pub and I bought a new camera card. The top of Ben Nevis was covered with clouds and there was sporadic rain. Lots and lots of hikers and the area seemed very crowded with tourists. Continuing south we passed through quite a heavy rain squall, but it stopped just after we passed the turn off to Glen Coe. By the time we reached the Pt. Appin area there was lots of blue sky. We stopped to photograph Castle Stalker, but unfortunately it wasn’t open to tourists at that time. Shortly after that we found the Pierhouse Hotel and checked in around 5:30 PM. We had Room 10 on the second floor with a view towards Loch Linnhe – truly a beautiful place – I highly recommend staying there. Check out the photos I took of the sunset we experienced – really fantastic. We had dinner in the hotel – appetizers were minestrone soup, white anchovy salad and for entrees salmon steak and scallops from Mull with rice cooked with lemon and orange zest. Tiramisu for dessert. Our waitress was Polish and had come to Scotland with her husband. They had been traveling around – had been in Fort Augustus before. After dinner we went for a long sunset walk and took tons of photos.
Mull, July 15-16
After a quick breakfast we continued south to Oban, where we lined up for the ferry to Mull. Amazingly blue sky with big, puffy clouds – truly a beautiful approach to Mull. After docking at Craignure we visited Duart Castle, home of the McLeans for centuries. I think it’s the 26th or 28th Laird of Duart, or Clan Chief McLean who owns it now. Very colorful history, especially the 18th clan chief Lachlan, who stranded his second wife Elizabeth on the Lady rock to drown. But apparently she was rescued – and after two more wives and finally an heir, he was murdered 30 years later by one of Elizabeth’s brothers in Edinburgh. This is also the castle where they filmed Entrapment with Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta Jones.
After visiting the castle, we drove into Tobermory and walked around. We had a quick lunch there but many shops were closed since it was Sunday. Warm enough to wear the lightweight clothes I had brought. Around 4:30 we drove out to Glengorm Castle, which is owned by cousins of my husband and operated as a B&B. We stayed in the family quarters of the Castle and climbed up on the roof for cocktails that afternoon. They have about 1000 sheep and 250 cows. They also opened a coffee shop on the premises nearby where they sell meat from their own animals and produce grown there as well. There is even room for a couple of art studios and the tenants sell their artwork. We had dinner up in the family quarters and got to enjoy Glengorm beef and veggies from their kitchen garden.
The next morning we got to eat in the main dining room with the B&B guests and had a great breakfast. We had made reservations for Staffa and were planning to depart from the Ulva ferry because it was closer – had abandoned the idea of Iona since we weren’t staying long enough. Sadly enough, this was one time when rain really disrupted our plans. The ferry operator called and said the trip was canceled because not enough people were booked and in the end, we did not get to do Staffa OR Iona. A very good reason to come back. We decided to drive around the northern part of the island instead. Took the road toward Dervaig, stopped at Calgary Beach where we got caught out in a downpour, and then drove over to the Ulva ferry. We took this tiny ferry (see photo) to Ulva and had a great lunch at the Boathouse where we had oysters they had just brought in in a bucket. Back at the Castle we had afternoon cocktails in front of the fire in the entrance hall and another family dinner upstairs. I wish I had been able to see some of the rooms at the B&B but they were all booked, including the cottages out on the property. Based on the rest of the castle, though, I’m sure they are quite lovely.
After another wonderful breakfast at Tigh an Dochais, we left for Armadale and the ferry to Mallaig. We drove the A851 past Isleornsay and then took a right turn onto that unnumbered single track road everyone always talks about. Beautiful drive, and arrived in plenty of time for the ferry. Great little clothing store called Ragamuffin (there’s also one on the High Street in Edinburgh) and coffee shop right by the ferry terminal. Because I did not have the license number for our rental car in advance I waited for this chance to make all my reservations (to Mull and back again to Oban). We took the 12:55 ferry and landed during weather that was threatening rain but not yet raining. We drove along Loch nan Uamh where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed and departed during the ’45 and then stopped at the Glenfinnan monument. We had lunch in Fort William at the Ben Nevis pub and I bought a new camera card. The top of Ben Nevis was covered with clouds and there was sporadic rain. Lots and lots of hikers and the area seemed very crowded with tourists. Continuing south we passed through quite a heavy rain squall, but it stopped just after we passed the turn off to Glen Coe. By the time we reached the Pt. Appin area there was lots of blue sky. We stopped to photograph Castle Stalker, but unfortunately it wasn’t open to tourists at that time. Shortly after that we found the Pierhouse Hotel and checked in around 5:30 PM. We had Room 10 on the second floor with a view towards Loch Linnhe – truly a beautiful place – I highly recommend staying there. Check out the photos I took of the sunset we experienced – really fantastic. We had dinner in the hotel – appetizers were minestrone soup, white anchovy salad and for entrees salmon steak and scallops from Mull with rice cooked with lemon and orange zest. Tiramisu for dessert. Our waitress was Polish and had come to Scotland with her husband. They had been traveling around – had been in Fort Augustus before. After dinner we went for a long sunset walk and took tons of photos.
Mull, July 15-16
After a quick breakfast we continued south to Oban, where we lined up for the ferry to Mull. Amazingly blue sky with big, puffy clouds – truly a beautiful approach to Mull. After docking at Craignure we visited Duart Castle, home of the McLeans for centuries. I think it’s the 26th or 28th Laird of Duart, or Clan Chief McLean who owns it now. Very colorful history, especially the 18th clan chief Lachlan, who stranded his second wife Elizabeth on the Lady rock to drown. But apparently she was rescued – and after two more wives and finally an heir, he was murdered 30 years later by one of Elizabeth’s brothers in Edinburgh. This is also the castle where they filmed Entrapment with Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta Jones.
After visiting the castle, we drove into Tobermory and walked around. We had a quick lunch there but many shops were closed since it was Sunday. Warm enough to wear the lightweight clothes I had brought. Around 4:30 we drove out to Glengorm Castle, which is owned by cousins of my husband and operated as a B&B. We stayed in the family quarters of the Castle and climbed up on the roof for cocktails that afternoon. They have about 1000 sheep and 250 cows. They also opened a coffee shop on the premises nearby where they sell meat from their own animals and produce grown there as well. There is even room for a couple of art studios and the tenants sell their artwork. We had dinner up in the family quarters and got to enjoy Glengorm beef and veggies from their kitchen garden.
The next morning we got to eat in the main dining room with the B&B guests and had a great breakfast. We had made reservations for Staffa and were planning to depart from the Ulva ferry because it was closer – had abandoned the idea of Iona since we weren’t staying long enough. Sadly enough, this was one time when rain really disrupted our plans. The ferry operator called and said the trip was canceled because not enough people were booked and in the end, we did not get to do Staffa OR Iona. A very good reason to come back. We decided to drive around the northern part of the island instead. Took the road toward Dervaig, stopped at Calgary Beach where we got caught out in a downpour, and then drove over to the Ulva ferry. We took this tiny ferry (see photo) to Ulva and had a great lunch at the Boathouse where we had oysters they had just brought in in a bucket. Back at the Castle we had afternoon cocktails in front of the fire in the entrance hall and another family dinner upstairs. I wish I had been able to see some of the rooms at the B&B but they were all booked, including the cottages out on the property. Based on the rest of the castle, though, I’m sure they are quite lovely.
Jun 10th, 2008, 03:03 PM
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Here are the photos for this part:
http://tinyurl.com/5hbtpt
I'm afraid I have to go out of town on a business trip for about a week, so I will have to post the rest of the trip when I return. I hope you enjoy these photos.
Julie
http://tinyurl.com/5hbtpt
I'm afraid I have to go out of town on a business trip for about a week, so I will have to post the rest of the trip when I return. I hope you enjoy these photos.
Julie
