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Scotland trip report July 2014, chapter 1

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Scotland trip report July 2014, chapter 1

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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 02:29 PM
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>>I was puzzled in Scotland that there were no outlets in the bathroom for hair dryers. <<

There are no regular outlets in bathrooms anywhere in the UK. Once in a while you'll find small 110 razor outlets (American plug) over the bathroom mirror -mostly in international chain hotels. This is not to be used (ever) for a hair dryer

Would you <i>really</i> want a 220 outlet in the bathroom?.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 07:38 PM
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"Would you really want a 220 outlet in the bathroom?"

I don't know. Is it different in France? I seem to remember having outlets in the bathrooms there.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 12:59 AM
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>>There are no regular outlets in bathrooms anywhere in the UK. Once in a while you'll find small 110 razor outlets (American plug) over the bathroom mirror -mostly in international chain hotels. <<

These are for electric shavers, toothbrushes and the like - all low consumption devices. These are provided not just for international visitors as implied, but also for locals who have these devices (I have one in my shower room at home). The voltage on these outlets is normally 220V, but sometimes you'll see a switch to go between 120V and 220V. As Janis says, whatever you do, don't plug a high current power consumption device into one of these sockets.

Fundamentally water and electricity don't mix, hence the UK restriction on putting power points into bathrooms.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 09:56 AM
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Day Four
My father had been proud of his Scottish ancestry and had done a lot of research about his roots. I grew up hearing his stories of the Sinclair clan, reading the W.S. poems, learning about the family curse, the various personalities from the past, Rosslyn Castle and Chapel, the ruins of Castles Sinclair and Girnigoe, and Mey. So I’d always wanted to visit Scotland.

When I was contemplating all the places I wanted to visit on my Scotland trek, I had a hard time including all the far north sites, but one Sinclair-related location was essential: Rosslyn. So, rather than rent a car in the city, we opted to take a Rabbie’s tour. The itinerary included Melrose Abbey and a drive through the Borders.

Walked up to Waverly Station to the Rabbies headquarters. (They even have a café so you can get a coffee to take with you.) We queued up, along with a variety of other departing tours, for our small bus. We got a late start because one of the passengers overslept. (One lesson about sharing a bus ride with others!) We were very lucky to have a guide who was doing the Rosslyn circuit for the first time, lucky because he’d just spent several years as a guide AT Rosslyn. He was very knowledgeable and quite funny, provided a concise but good intro to Scottish history and talked about the significance of the sites we were to visit and so off we went. One of his anecdotes was about pronunciation: “If yeh turn yeh head t’warrrd the window and say ‘Loch,’ if ya dunna leave part of your brrrrreakfast on the window, ya have na pronounced it properly.” Ha.

Truthfully, I couldn’t have cared less about the first stop, being so focused on Rosslyn, but shame on me. Melrose Abbey was wonderful. Though a ruin, it was an extensive one, evocative, well-tended, very impressive. And we got to see where the Bruce’s heart was buried. It was touching to see that people were still leaving flowers for him. When we subsequently visited Stirling, Bannockburn and Culloden, it brought things full circle.

Lunch was free-time and we used it to walk around the little village of Melrose before settling in to lunch at an outdoor café. Homemade soup and toasted sandwiches followed by a little retail therapy and then back on the bus.

At this point, I’m sure the Sinclair blood in my veins is so miniscule as to be sub-atomic, but I still felt a level of prideful ownership about visiting Rosslyn. Our guide, of course, made good use of the diluted connection by opening the bus doors and wishing everyone welcome to “Nora’s family chapel.” Ha! Well, it was both more and way more than I was expecting. The way more part was the crowded car park, manicured grounds, shiny new glass visitor’s entrance, interactive displays and gift store and crowd of tourists. The DaVinci Code has sure been very good to the conservation trust. (Or not.)

Nevertheless, it is a beautiful chapel with truly magnificent carvings and I was very moved to have finally made it there. I was able to steal a few quiet moments in a rear pew to simply look and absorb. I touched (gasp!) the tombs of my ancestors and wished them peace. I wrote my father’s name in a list for church service prayers (it is still a functioning parish church). We were there in time for a 20 minute lecture on the history of the building, a very dry lecture. I watched our tour guide stand in a corner and roll his eyes at me. Outside, he sought me out and gave me his own version of the lecture and offered to answer any questions I might have. It was a very kind and thoughtful gesture that made my trip as special as I had hoped.

Back in the gift store I bought a gazillion Rosslyn Chapel tea towels, thinking they'd be easy to pack. Now, who wouldn’t want one of those as a Christmas gift, eh? (Probably every person I give one to!) I also purchased a history written by the current Earl of Rosslyn. And a refrigerator magnet. Because what Sinclair can call themselves a proud clan member without a fridge magnet?! Sigh.

The tour included a stop at several gorgeous views out over the rolling countryside and some very amusing commentary. I asked our guide what his vote would be in September and he was very eloquent about independence. (BTW we talked to everyone about the upcoming vote for independence, always staying very neutral. The difference in opinions was very interesting. Many were very pro-independence. Others less so, relishing the idea of independence but fearful of the financial issues.)

All in all, I thought the tour was great, a good value, comfortable, and well-planned. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Rabbie’s to anyone considering a day tour.
More to come. With apologies for how piecemeal this is.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 11:24 AM
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Hi Nora, great to read the next installment. Don't worry about piecemeal. Keep it coming every day or two and it gives readers a chance to respond to the different sections individually. I hope you are finding the trip report a lovely revisit of the trip (that's been my experience on my own reports).

I visited Rosslyn several years ago (oh my, 6! to do the math) and there was a kitty named William who came to visit the tourists every day. Good chance he's no longer there, but I'll still ask .. did you see a black kitty around?

Cheers.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 03:39 PM
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I hate Dan &^%$$%# Brown (not <i>personally</i> but . . . ) The first 3 times I visited the Chapel was before he had even dreamed of the Da Vinci Code, and twice my car was the only one there and I or my mother and I were the only people in the place. Being able to absorb the surroundings and examine every bit of the 'Prentice Pillar in solitude -- heaven.
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 06:32 PM
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Loving all the detail!!
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Old Jul 24th, 2014, 06:56 PM
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OMG, I'd love one of those tea towels, but I certainly will settle for more installments of your report. Loving it!
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Old Jul 25th, 2014, 05:40 AM
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William is no longer there, however, one can buy plush replicas of William, or a children's book about William, William key chains, etc, etc,... would have loved to have met William as I missed my own kitties very much. I gather he was very popular and will continue to be so long into his afterlife (if the shop has anything to do with it)!

Yes, Janis J, I have to say I to now hate Dan @$#*! Brown's Da Vinci Code. There were so many people there only because of the book/film who wanted to know about conspiracy theories, Mary Magdalene, etc. I am still glad that monies pouring in have allowed them to fix the roof and continue to maintain that gorgeous structure. The carvings are truly extraordinary, but it would have been heaven indeed to be there alone. Ah well.
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Old Jul 25th, 2014, 06:14 AM
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Glad your report is coming in pieces and giving people a chance to respond to each chapter as it turns up. I am really enjoying this story! Thanks for sharing.

Every TR that includes Rosslyn makes me less inclined to go, but then I don't have the family connection that you do! My Scottish ancestors came from farther north--much farther north! (and as you say about your Sinclair background, the Scottish blood is pretty dilute by now.)
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Old Jul 25th, 2014, 07:01 AM
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Irishface, it has become very commercial, but that doesn't make it any less beautiful. The carvings are spectacular, and if you had a car it's not a far jaunt from Edinburgh. It's just that you really don't want a car IN Edinburgh. Don't let it's popularity discourage you.
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Old Jul 25th, 2014, 07:13 PM
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LOL, to read about William's earning a place in posterity! The picture did not show well in my first attempt at a movie and Youtube has done something that makes the video even poorer to view, but he's in my trip show at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VMGMtRZsJI
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Old Jul 27th, 2014, 04:12 PM
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So glad you are continuing your report.
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Old Jan 7th, 2016, 05:08 AM
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I can't believe so much time has gone by and that I never finished my trip report! Rereading this post and I relived all the details I provided. Now, while the trip still remains with me and inspires me to return to Scotland, I feel all the specifics slipping away. A warning to myself -- and any of you like me -- write it while it's fresh.

There are several things I do want to share.

At the end of our stay in Edinburgh, we headed back to the airport to pick up our rental car. The process - through Eurocar - was smooth and easy. And despite our mutual terror of facing driving on the "wrong" side, it was actually pretty easy. My biggest fear was that I was never going to make it out of the airport, going round and round and round the roundabouts. But other drivers in the airport are either just as terrified as you and also going 5 mph or are like every other Scot driver we encountered, generous, patient, kind. We made it out of the airport in no time (huzzah) and were on our way to take the scenic drive to St. Andrews via the East Neuk.

I must admit we did do a lot of squealing as we drove on that first day. Well, OK, we squealed during our entire trip. Out of fear and delight intermingled.
We stopped for lunch in Anstruther, finding an easy spot in the car park, another first. Enjoyed looking at teeny harbor and the hardy families who were actually frolicking at what I figured must have been frigid fringes of the water. We made it into the Anstruther fish bar just before the lunchtime crush, not even waiting 2 minutes for a seat. Now, I know there are fans of specific chippies and that many of you will scoff, but I have to say that my friend and I had the best fish and chips we have ever had in our life.

I made us both calendars with images from our trip, with a different phase of our trip for each month. One month has a big image of Anstruther harbor and smaller images of our plates! Hah.

From there we continued on to St. Andrews. Walked and walked and walked. We thought we might try to do the Ladie's Course, neither of us golfers, so we could say we had golfed at St. A's. But after walking from one end to the other and seeing the sights, we were simply too pooped. St. A's is delightful and reminded me of Boston with so many students giving it a very upbeat energy amidst the old architecture. (Of course Boston is pretty "modern" by comparison!) The beaches are gorgeous, the cemetery is wonderful, the cathedral... too much.

We opted to stay out of town at a B&B in the next town. I'll go look it up.
It was interesting to stay in a "regular" non tourist town and eat in the local pub.

More later. Maybe someone will still be interested. But I'm just trying to capture my memories before they disappear.
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Old Jan 7th, 2016, 06:53 AM
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Welcome back. Looking forward to any more you can add.

I know what you mean -- I am two trip reports behind (Kyoto/Tokyo just before Thanksgiving and London right after Christmas) and f I don't get to them this week they may vaporize
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Old Jan 7th, 2016, 07:49 AM
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Thank you for this - especially the reassuring ease of getting a car at the airport and immediately driving off on the left.

This is our plan . . . hope . . .
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Old Jan 7th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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Oh, and I personally would love to hear more about your trip.
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Old Jan 8th, 2016, 01:31 PM
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We're doing your trip in reverse this May, so I'm definitely interested!
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 05:36 AM
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Ahah! Strathkiness. We stayed at a B&B in Strathkiness. A very easy drive after a lot of walking, through our first glimpse of rolling hills and always with the sea in view. We were headed to the Paddock, a modern built B&B.

I tried to plan the trip with a of mixture styles for the places we stayed, so the modern build w/ a glass atrium for breakfast seemed perfect, and the twin room, the first we would be sharing on our trip, looked spacious. Photos showed the serene country surrounding the building.

We were a little nervous when we found it because while it had probably originally been built perched alone with a great view overlooking barley fields and paddocks(!), but even in a short time the town, an easy commute to St. A's, had built up around it and closed it in. The drive to the entrance and car park was a narrow drive between buildings. But once inside, with a friendly greeting from the owner, it was lovely and did look like its photos. The view out the back was indeed very rural. The room, with a kind of Ikea-like furniture was very spacious, well-appointed with a large modern bathroom.

It had been a while since our Anstruther fish lunch, so the owner called the local pub, arranged a table for us and showed us how to walk through the kiddie park to find it. And the local pub was wonderful. Our table was in the dining room, which had less pub atmosphere and was quieter and more genteel. I am not sure but we might have liked sitting with the louder locals. Great menu and a very ambitious menu. I chose wrong, but more of that later.

To our surprise/delight/horror, at the table next to us we detected Texas-twangs. And yes, one of the two couples was indeed from the US and were there on their annual jaunt to Scotland to attend the Game Fair at Scone. (I had actually gone back and forth on whether I should include that in my itinerary but was warned that it was not like a local Highland games crowd and opted to skip it.)

So, the food was indeed fabulous. But I ordered something too rich and spicy for my already confused system. And drank a bit too much (since we were walking home, after all) but paid for it the next day and thought I might have actually ruined my vacation!

Up early the next day. Breakfast in the atrium, beautiful sunny day, friendly kitties...really really bad lower tract. Ugh ...can we just stay here? No, no, "I'm fine, I'm fine." We have miles to go and so I soldier on. Up, out, in the car and off we go, the whole while my system is going bubble-bubble-bubble-groan-bubble. Pretending to be fine, we drive to Stonehaven.
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Old Jan 9th, 2016, 07:01 AM
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I am so glad we have returned to this report, bad gi tract and all.
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