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Scotland Trip Report August 15-25

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Scotland Trip Report August 15-25

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Old Sep 3rd, 2024 | 06:43 AM
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Scotland Trip Report August 15-25

This was a trip focused on the Highlands, with a Road Scholar tour that spent one week at the Aigas Field Institute/Nature Centre near Beauly (near Inverness).

Delta/KLM flight from Atlanta to Amsterdam to Glasgow went smoothly and I landed on time, at 8:30 a.m, and it was so quick to get out of the airport that I was across the street at my tour hotel, the Airport Holiday Inn, by 9:00 a.m. The Road Scholar tour leader was already there & able to get me good advice about how to make the best of my time before the 5:00 tour meeting. Best advice was that it was an extra windy and chilly day for August and that I should wear multiple layers. A sweater, a knit jacket with hood and a very light rain jacket over my short sleeve shirt had me ready to go. All layers were needed!

Express bus from airport to downtown (paid with credit card, around $20 for round trip) got me to a spot where I could immediately start the Hop on and Hop off tour ($23, credit card). It was a gray & cold day to me; I didn't get on the top. Off at 2nd stop, Glasgow Cathedral, very easy to navigate on my own, not a busy section of town. Best preserved medieval cathedral in Scotland, spared most of the reformers remodeling zeal. Visited tomb of St. Mungo below ground; then outside, walked up to the lower levels of the Necropolis, the 19th century burying grounds of Glasgow's elite, back in the day of Glasgow's greatest prosperity, when it was second city of the Empire. Got good views of the city but oh, the wind was blowing. Quick inside walk through of St. Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art (and free bathroom).

Next stop the Riverside Museum, a new transportation museum, winner of awards, recommended highly by Road Scholar tour director. But it really wasn't my thing. Crowded inside and I hadn't the time for the tall ship. I did enjoy the views of the river.

By now it was 1:00 and I was fading. Got off next at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, which was worth an entire day. I was planning to get tea and some food here but there was a concert going on and all seats were taken. I spent most of my time in the natural history section because I wanted background for my week in nature at Aigas. Very well done. Saw some of the art, including the Salvador Dali's Christ of St. John of the Cross, but missed so much. Made my way outside about 2:00 to wait for the bus, admiring the beauty of the building and grounds. Finished up the hop on and hop off route and then waited for a bit for the express bus at the very large Buchanan Station. Bus drivers for both express bus and the hop on ones so nice about answering my questions. Back at Holiday Inn by 3:45 to get checked in and ready for meeting & dinner (which I needed, had eaten only an emergency granola bar).

After hotel dinner, something that had never happened before -- a fire alarm about 9:30. Waited outside for about 30 minutes (it was cold!) for the all clear.

Saturday . . . the drive up from Glasgow to Aigas. Buffet breakfast at Holiday Inn, I got small amount of haggis and it was good with my bad (powdered) eggs. Surprised that I liked it, tasted much like sausage.

We were on the bus and off at 9:00 a.m., a bit of rain, lots of dark gray clouds, good views of Loch Lomond but just from the bus. Stopped at a store/restaurant for bathroom break & instead of doing any shopping or tea drinking, I was able to get on a paved trail behind the building that connected with the Wild Atlantic Way trail and walk for about 10 minutes in the mist. Fireweed, foxglove, heather . . . all sorts of beautiful pink and purple color. Light rain falling. Real hikers on the trail (and we would often see them in the distance as we drove) with good rain gear and backpacks.

Our lunch stop was at Glencoe where Road Scholar prepaid for us to go through the Visitor Center Coo Cafe line getting soup/sandwich and drink. My meal was very good; cheese and onion chutney on dark bread, lentil soup, and a little teapot of tea with little white pitcher of milk. Hurried out to enjoy our limited free time; visited the reconstruction of a turf house and then took the trail our guide had told us about, taking photos of all the blooming plants that would soon be familiar but at that first moment were especially beautiful and exotic. No time for the film but RS guide had given good background on Glencoe in the bus.

We got serious rain as bus pulled out of Glencoe (which, of course, was worth much more time than we spent there). We were able to make another couple of scenic stops along the way at moments when the rain was just mist -- one just a pulloff from the road for views of the mountains as they came in and out of the clouds and the other at a memorial for WW2 commandos (in an area that they had trained in), which is also now a memorial for veterans of other British wars. I am not exactly sure where this was.

Then, finally, about 4:15,, we arrived at Aigas. Beautiful place! The young rangers, who would be our guides for the week, were waiting to help us get luggage up to the cabins (I was in "Fraser Lodge", a cabin with 4 bedrooms, each with its own bathroom, and then a common living room & small kitchen with kettle & tea/coffee & snacks provided. My roommate and I hurried back down to the "big house" where tea & cake were being served in the common room. We got oriented a bit more, I walked just a little and then at 6:30, there were pre-dinner drinks and at 7:00 dinner was served, with tea or coffee afterwards in common room, and house closing at 9:00. This would be our schedule for the week.

(To be continued)

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Old Sep 3rd, 2024 | 03:09 PM
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On for the ride. OMG -- The first sentence and I'm hooked . Several years ago we rented a cottage for a week just next door to the Nature centre (the farm and holiday cottages with the wee golf course at the bottom of the garden)

"I am not exactly sure where this was." The Memorial is at Spean Bridge
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Old Sep 3rd, 2024 | 03:16 PM
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The Commando Memorial with Ben Nevis in the background
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Old Sep 4th, 2024 | 02:16 AM
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Thank you,, that's it. Sky and view different when I was there. I didn't see that much blue sky the entire time I was in Scotland!
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Old Sep 4th, 2024 | 07:27 AM
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Just lost the long detailed post about the rest of trip, . . . briefly Aigas was wonderful -- excellent food, hospitality, beautiful land, good learning opportunities. We did guided exploring on the property, had free time to walk or hike around on the property ourselves and then had planned whole group expeditions on some days and other days had choices of field trips. HIstory Day (which included Culloden, Clara Cairns, and Cowder Castle) was one of my favorites; as was the visit to the Caledonian Forest & hike there. The day to the western coast was a disappointment, not because of the trip planning but the weather was especially bad. I had rain pants, rain jacket, waterproof shoes, rain hat, etc . but the remnants of Ernesto were blowing through that day and we could get out very little. Did get to see some harbor seals though!

I think my favorite optional trip was to Old Allangrange, a garden & small farm, on Black Isle -- had a great tour by the owner.

Now I want to go back to the Highlands, maybe to the islands, but life moves fast; am grateful that I had this time & got to see and learn so much.
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